CN113324849B - Multi-direction garment stiffness evaluation method based on single sample - Google Patents

Multi-direction garment stiffness evaluation method based on single sample Download PDF

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CN113324849B
CN113324849B CN202110636253.8A CN202110636253A CN113324849B CN 113324849 B CN113324849 B CN 113324849B CN 202110636253 A CN202110636253 A CN 202110636253A CN 113324849 B CN113324849 B CN 113324849B
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garment
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petal
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CN113324849A (en
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刘成霞
邹树叶
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Zhejiang Sci Tech University ZSTU
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    • GPHYSICS
    • G01MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01NINVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
    • G01N3/00Investigating strength properties of solid materials by application of mechanical stress
    • G01N3/20Investigating strength properties of solid materials by application of mechanical stress by applying steady bending forces
    • GPHYSICS
    • G01MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01NINVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
    • G01N2203/00Investigating strength properties of solid materials by application of mechanical stress
    • G01N2203/0014Type of force applied
    • G01N2203/0023Bending

Abstract

The invention discloses a method for testing multi-directional stiffness of a garment fabric based on a single sample. The test method is as follows: 1. and cutting the fabric of the tested clothes into a round tested sample. Two marked lines perpendicular to each other on the sample to be tested. The two marking straight lines are respectively perpendicular to the two measured directions. 2. And the bottom end of one fixed column is used for propping against the circle center of the tested sample, and the two ends of the two marked straight lines of the tested sample are respectively upturned and fixed with the side surface of the fixed column. The test specimen was everted on the fixed column to form four petaloid specimens. 3. The length L, width D, and edge minimum height H of each petal-shaped specimen were measured, as well as the horizontally projected area S. 4. And calculating the bending rigidity B in the measured direction corresponding to each petal-shaped sample. According to the invention, four groups of data in two directions can be obtained at one time by using one round tested sample under the condition that obvious crease is not generated, so that the bending rigidity of the tested garment material in two directions can be accurately detected.

Description

Multi-direction garment stiffness evaluation method based on single sample
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the field of textile garment performance evaluation, and particularly relates to a method for evaluating multi-directional stiffness of a garment based on a single sample.
Background
Nowadays, the society is more and more pursuing green and sustainable development, but the textile detection field is producing a large amount of waste materials. The reason is that both woven fabric and knitted fabric have anisotropy, and sampling in different directions is needed to obtain comprehensive performance parameters of the fabrics. Stiffness is an important attribute for representing the style of clothes, wearing comfort and hand feeling, and underwear clothes require comfort and softness, while outerwear clothes require good stiffness, smoothness and modeling. In the existing testing method, the sample needs to be cut again when each direction is measured, so that the current situation not only causes a lot of waste of raw materials (especially valuable fabrics), but also has the defect that repeated cutting consumes a large amount of labor and time cost.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a method for evaluating the multi-directional stiffness of clothes based on a single sample.
The method comprises the following specific steps:
step one, cutting the fabric of the garment to be tested into a circular sample. Two marking straight lines which pass through the center of a circle and are perpendicular to each other are drawn on a tested sample. The two marking straight lines are respectively perpendicular to the two measured directions.
And step two, the bottom end of one fixed column is used for propping against the circle center of the tested sample, and the two ends of the two marked straight lines of the tested sample are respectively upturned and fixed with the side surface of the fixed column. The sample to be tested was everted on the fixed column to form four petal-shaped samples.
And step three, measuring the length L, the width D, the height H of the lowest edge part and the horizontal projection area S of each petal-shaped sample.
Step four, calculating the bending rigidity B in the measured direction corresponding to each petal-shaped sample as follows:
B=G(0.487·X) 3 ×10 -1
wherein G is the weight of the sample to be measured; x is the bending length and the expression is as follows:
X=-0.352·S+2.206·L+1.277·D+1.132·H-16.13。
preferably, the radius of the sample to be measured is 10cm.
Preferably, the fabric of the garment to be tested is ironed and then cut into a sample to be tested; the test sample is used after being placed for 24h under standard atmospheric conditions.
Preferably, the second step is performed in an indoor environment with standard atmospheric pressure and uniform and sufficient light.
Preferably, the position where the test sample is fixed with the fixing column is located 0.5cm inside the edge of the test sample.
Preferably, the end of the straight mark line on the sample to be tested is fixed with the side of the fixed column by a pin.
Preferably, step three is performed after the petal shape of the sample to be tested is stabilized for 1 min.
Preferably, the length L, width D, height H at the lowest edge, and horizontal projection area S of the petal-shaped sample are obtained by image processing of the top view image and the side view images at different positions of the sample under test.
Preferably, the evaluation device used in the present invention includes a specimen mounting unit, a top surface photographing unit, and a side surface photographing unit. The sample installation component comprises a base, a fixing column, a connecting needle and a reference sheet. The central point of base puts and is fixed with the connection needle that sets up upwards. The central position of fixed column bottom end face sets up the connecting hole that corresponds with the connection needle. The fixed columns are regular quadrangular columns. The top side camera assembly includes a mounting bracket and a top camera. The top camera is fixed at the top of the mounting bracket. The camera lens of top camera sets up down, and is located the directly over of fixed column. The side shooter assembly includes a plurality of side cameras. Each side camera faces to different sides of the fixed column. And the top of each side face of the corresponding side camera on the fixed column is provided with a reference sheet.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
according to the invention, four groups of data in two directions can be obtained at one time under the condition that one round tested sample does not generate obvious crease, so that the bending rigidity of the tested clothes in two directions can be accurately detected; in addition, the round tested sample cut by the invention can be repeatedly used, thereby realizing the bending rigidity detection in any direction from 0 degree to 360 degrees and having the advantages of saving manpower, material resources and financial resources and the like.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic perspective view of an evaluation device used in the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of the position of each side camera in the present invention;
fig. 3 is a schematic diagram of a tested sample forming four petal-shaped samples on a fixed column.
Detailed Description
The invention is further described below with reference to the accompanying drawings.
A multi-direction garment stiffness evaluation device based on a single sample comprises a sample mounting assembly, a top surface shooting assembly and a side surface shooting assembly. The sample installation component comprises a base 1, a fixing column 2, a connecting needle 3 and a reference sheet 4. The central position of base 1 is fixed with the connection needle 3 that sets up upwards. The center position of the bottom end face of the fixed column 2 is provided with a connecting hole. The connecting pin 3 corresponds to the size of the connecting hole, so that the fixing column 2 can be fixed on the base 1. The fixed column 2 is a regular quadrangular prism, the length of the regular quadrangular prism is 12cm, and the cross section of the regular quadrangular prism is a square with the side length of 1 mm. The reference sheet 4 is adhered to the top of the different sides of the reference sheet 4. The reference sheet 4 is a red square with the side length of 1cm and is used for providing a reference object with a standard size during image processing, so that the actual size corresponding to the image parameters extracted by the petal method is calculated.
The top side camera assembly includes a mounting bracket 6 and a top camera 7. The top camera 7 is fixed on top of the mounting bracket 6. The lens of the top camera 7 faces directly below and is located directly above the fixed column 2. The side shooter assembly includes a plurality of side cameras 8. The equal level setting of camera lens of three lateral part camera 8, and respectively towards the different sides of fixed column 2. The side face of each corresponding side camera 8 on the fixed column 2 is provided with a reference sheet 4.
The process of evaluating the stiffness by using the evaluation device is as follows:
step one, ironing the fabric of the garment to be tested, and then cutting the fabric into a sample to be tested 5. The tested sample 5 is in a circular shape with the radius of 10cm (if the radius is too large, the experimental operation is not facilitated, the softer fabric is easy to fold and squeeze together, and if the radius is too small, the area of each petal is small, the data of the fabric petals are similar, and the error is large, so that the optimal radius of 10cm is selected); three samples are prepared for the same garment material to be tested. And the test specimen 5 was left under standard atmospheric conditions for 24 hours. The center of a circle is marked on the sample 5 to be tested, and two marked straight lines which pass through the center of the circle and are perpendicular to each other are drawn. The two marking straight lines are respectively perpendicular to the two measured directions. In this example, the two measured directions are 90 ° and 0 °, respectively (i.e. the warp and weft directions, which are the indispensable terms specified in the national standard), or 45 ° and 135 °, respectively (i.e. the two orthobias directions).
And step two, aligning the center of the circle of the tested sample 5 with the center position of the bottom end of the fixed column 2 in a standard atmospheric environment and an indoor environment with uniform and sufficient illumination. The connecting needle 3 on the base 1 penetrates through the center of a sample 5 to be tested and is connected with the fixed column 2. Two ends of the two marking straight lines are respectively turned upwards in a straightening shape and are respectively fixed with four side surfaces on the fixed column 2 through pins. The distance from the position of the marking straight line connecting the pins to the edge of the sample 5 to be tested is 0.5cm. The distance from the position of the pin connected to each side surface of the fixing column 2 to the base 1 is 9cm.
The sample 5 to be tested exhibits four petal-shaped samples respectively everted along the four edges of the fixed column 2 under the action of gravity and self elasticity. Specifically, after the pins fix the edge part of the fabric, the round edges of the fabric form petal shapes with different sizes due to different bending properties of the fabric, and the corresponding lengths and widths of the petals are different. The shape of the fabric fixed by the pins is just like a flower and comprises four petals when the fabric is seen from the upper part of the fabric, so the fabric is named as a petal method, the petal shape of a softer fabric sample is slender, the petal shape of a stiffer fabric sample is round, and the petal shapes of one sample in different directions are different.
And step three, after the petal shape of the sample 5 to be tested is stabilized for 1min, the top camera 7 and each side part photograph the sample 5 to be tested, and a top view image and side face images at different positions of the sample 5 to be tested are obtained.
Step four, the shapes of the petals formed by the tested fabrics with different bending properties are different, so that the petal area S, the length L, the width D and the height H are introduced as evaluation indexes. The area S, length L and width D of the four petals are all extracted from the top view image. The heights H of the four petals are extracted from the side images at different positions.
The areas S of the four petals respectively indicate the areas of four independent petal patterns (also referred to as droplet-shaped patterns) surrounded by the edge of the sample 5 to be tested and the fixed column 2. The lengths L of the four petals respectively represent the distances from the positions, which are farthest away from the fixed column 2, of the four petals on the tested sample 5 to the fixed column 2. The widths D of the four petals respectively indicate the widths of the widest positions of the four petals on the test specimen 5. The height H of the four petals represents the distance from the lowest of the top edges of the four petals on the tested sample 5 to the end surface of the bottom end of the fixed column 2.
The areas S formed by the fabrics having different softness are different, and the stiffer the fabric sample is less susceptible to the force, the more stiff the fabric sample is, the larger the area S formed by the stiff fabric. The process of obtaining the petal area S, the length L and the width D is as follows: and (3) preprocessing the shot picture by using Photoshop software, filling the position of the pin with the color same as that of the background, leaving a petal pattern and a reference sheet 4 of 1cm multiplied by 1cm, and introducing the obtained picture into MATLAB software for image processing to obtain the actual filling area, the horizontal maximum width and the vertical maximum height of the bent test spline.
In MATLAB, firstly, graying, binaryzation and morphological processing are carried out on a picture to obtain an image which can be identified by a computer, a digital image is composed of a plurality of pixel points, the actual length and the actual area of a reference object are known, and the actual area S of a sample can be obtained through the ratio of the total number of the pixel points of the sample to the total number of the pixel points of the reference object. The calculation formula is shown as formula (1); the calculation formulas of the width, the length and the height of the petals of the tested sample 5 are respectively shown in formulas (2), (3) and (4).
Figure BDA0003105834040000041
Figure BDA0003105834040000042
Figure BDA0003105834040000043
Figure BDA0003105834040000044
And calculating the bending length X (cm) = -0.352. S + 2.206. L + 1.277. D + 1.132. H-16.13 of the tested garment material. Calculating the bending rigidity B (mg.cm) = G (0.487. X) of the tested clothing fabric 3 ×10 -1 . Wherein G is the weight of the sample 5 to be tested.
The invention can simultaneously obtain two groups of data in two measured directions, so the bending rigidity in two directions can be simultaneously obtained, and the values of the two bending rigidity are obtained by the average value of the two groups of data, so the invention is more accurate and reliable. The above evaluation process is repeated in different directions of the tested garment material, so that the stiffness indexes of the tested garment material in any two directions perpendicular to each other between 0-360 degrees can be obtained, and the fabric is free of any damage and can be completely recycled.

Claims (9)

1. A multi-direction stiffness evaluation method of clothes based on a single sample is characterized by comprising the following steps: firstly, cutting a garment fabric to be tested into a round sample to be tested; drawing two mutually vertical mark straight lines which pass through the center of a circle on a tested sample; the two marking straight lines are respectively vertical to the two measured directions;
secondly, the bottom end of one fixed column is used for supporting the circle center of the tested sample, and two ends of two marking straight lines of the tested sample are respectively turned upwards and fixed with the side face of the fixed column; turning the sample to be tested outwards on the fixed column to form four petal-shaped samples;
step three, measuring the length L, the width D, the height H of the lowest edge of each petal-shaped sample and the horizontal projection area S;
step four, calculating the bending rigidity B in the measured direction corresponding to each petal-shaped sample as follows:
B=G(0.487·X) 3 ×10 -1
wherein G is the weight of the tested sample; x is the bending length and the expression is as follows:
X=-0.352·S+2.206·L+1.277·D+1.132·H-16.13。
2. the method of claim 1, wherein the evaluation of the multi-directional stiffness of the garment is based on a single sample, and the method comprises the following steps: the radius of the test specimen was 10cm.
3. The method for assessing the multi-directional stiffness of a garment based on a single sample as claimed in claim 1, wherein: ironing the fabric of the garment to be tested and cutting the fabric into a sample to be tested; the test sample is used after being placed for 24h under standard atmospheric conditions.
4. The method of claim 1, wherein the evaluation of the multi-directional stiffness of the garment is based on a single sample, and the method comprises the following steps: and the second step is carried out in an indoor environment with standard atmospheric pressure and uniform and sufficient illumination.
5. The method of claim 1, wherein the evaluation of the multi-directional stiffness of the garment is based on a single sample, and the method comprises the following steps: the position where the tested sample is fixed with the fixed column is located at the position of 0.5cm inside the edge of the tested sample.
6. The method for assessing the multi-directional stiffness of a garment based on a single sample as claimed in claim 1, wherein: the end of the marking straight line on the tested sample is fixed with the side surface of the fixing column through a pin.
7. The method of claim 1, wherein the evaluation of the multi-directional stiffness of the garment is based on a single sample, and the method comprises the following steps: and step three, after the petal shape of the tested sample is stable for 1 min.
8. The method of claim 1, wherein the evaluation of the multi-directional stiffness of the garment is based on a single sample, and the method comprises the following steps: the length L, the width D, the height H at the lowest part of the edge and the horizontal projection area S of the petal-shaped sample are obtained by carrying out image processing on an overlook image and side images at different positions of the sample to be tested.
9. The method for assessing the multi-directional stiffness of a garment based on a single sample as claimed in claim 1, wherein: the adopted testing device comprises a sample mounting component, a top surface shooting component and a side surface shooting component; the sample mounting assembly comprises a base (1), a fixing column (2), a connecting needle (3) and a reference sheet (4); a connecting needle (3) which is arranged upwards is fixed at the central position of the base (1); a connecting hole corresponding to the connecting needle (3) is formed in the center of the end face of the bottom end of the fixing column (2); the fixed column (2) is a regular quadrangular prism; the top surface shooting assembly comprises a mounting bracket (6) and a top camera (7); the top camera (7) is fixed at the top of the mounting bracket (6); the lens of the top camera (7) is arranged downwards and is positioned right above the fixed column (2); the side shooting assembly comprises a plurality of side cameras (8); each side camera (8) faces to different sides of the fixed column (2); the top of the side face of each corresponding side camera (8) on the fixing column (2) is provided with a reference sheet (4).
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