CN111487249A - Method for testing bending anisotropy of garment fabric - Google Patents
Method for testing bending anisotropy of garment fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN111487249A CN111487249A CN202010440776.0A CN202010440776A CN111487249A CN 111487249 A CN111487249 A CN 111487249A CN 202010440776 A CN202010440776 A CN 202010440776A CN 111487249 A CN111487249 A CN 111487249A
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 122
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 100
- 238000005452 bending Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 61
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 41
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 27
- 238000010409 ironing Methods 0.000 claims description 11
- 210000004907 gland Anatomy 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000000725 suspension Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000011521 glass Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000005484 gravity Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000003825 pressing Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 4
- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000007665 sagging Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000037303 wrinkles Effects 0.000 description 2
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000001514 detection method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910052742 iron Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 1
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- G—PHYSICS
- G01—MEASURING; TESTING
- G01N—INVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
- G01N21/00—Investigating or analysing materials by the use of optical means, i.e. using sub-millimetre waves, infrared, visible or ultraviolet light
- G01N21/84—Systems specially adapted for particular applications
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- G—PHYSICS
- G01—MEASURING; TESTING
- G01B—MEASURING LENGTH, THICKNESS OR SIMILAR LINEAR DIMENSIONS; MEASURING ANGLES; MEASURING AREAS; MEASURING IRREGULARITIES OF SURFACES OR CONTOURS
- G01B11/00—Measuring arrangements characterised by the use of optical techniques
- G01B11/28—Measuring arrangements characterised by the use of optical techniques for measuring areas
- G01B11/285—Measuring arrangements characterised by the use of optical techniques for measuring areas using photoelectric detection means
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- G—PHYSICS
- G01—MEASURING; TESTING
- G01N—INVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
- G01N1/00—Sampling; Preparing specimens for investigation
- G01N1/28—Preparing specimens for investigation including physical details of (bio-)chemical methods covered elsewhere, e.g. G01N33/50, C12Q
- G01N1/286—Preparing specimens for investigation including physical details of (bio-)chemical methods covered elsewhere, e.g. G01N33/50, C12Q involving mechanical work, e.g. chopping, disintegrating, compacting, homogenising
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- G—PHYSICS
- G01—MEASURING; TESTING
- G01N—INVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
- G01N1/00—Sampling; Preparing specimens for investigation
- G01N1/28—Preparing specimens for investigation including physical details of (bio-)chemical methods covered elsewhere, e.g. G01N33/50, C12Q
- G01N1/286—Preparing specimens for investigation including physical details of (bio-)chemical methods covered elsewhere, e.g. G01N33/50, C12Q involving mechanical work, e.g. chopping, disintegrating, compacting, homogenising
- G01N2001/2873—Cutting or cleaving
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- G—PHYSICS
- G01—MEASURING; TESTING
- G01N—INVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
- G01N21/00—Investigating or analysing materials by the use of optical means, i.e. using sub-millimetre waves, infrared, visible or ultraviolet light
- G01N21/84—Systems specially adapted for particular applications
- G01N2021/8444—Fibrous material
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
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- Y02P—CLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
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Abstract
The invention discloses a method for testing bending anisotropy of garment materials. In the prior art, a method for directly testing the bending anisotropy of the garment material does not exist. The method for testing the bending anisotropy of the garment fabric comprises the following steps: the invention is as follows: firstly, cutting out a sample to be tested; secondly, testing the bending property of the tested sample in all directions; thirdly, calculating the bending standard deviation A of the tested sample; and fourthly, calculating the bending anisotropy of the measured garment fabric. The method can simultaneously detect the flexibility indexes of a tested sample in different directions, so that the bending anisotropy of the garment material can be obtained only by one sample, and the method has the characteristics of simplicity, convenience and strong operability. The sample to be tested is in a shape of Chinese character mi, and the sample can be formed only by cutting three times by the folding cutting method, so that the sample preparation efficiency is high.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textile garment performance testing, and particularly relates to a method for testing bending anisotropy of garment fabric.
Background
Fabrics used as garments can be divided into two basic categories: the basic mechanism of the woven garment fabric and the knitted garment fabric determines that the woven garment fabric and the knitted garment fabric have anisotropy, particularly the properties related to mechanical properties such as wrinkle resistance, bending property, drapability and the like, which are important properties influencing the attractiveness of the garment, wherein the bending property is the greatest importance, and the size of the bending property directly determines the wrinkle resistance and the drapability. However, no method for directly testing the bending anisotropy of the garment material has been presented so far. The current method is only able to test the flexibility of one sample in one direction at a time.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a method for testing the bending anisotropy of a garment material.
The method for testing the bending anisotropy of the garment fabric comprises the following steps:
step one, cutting the garment fabric to be tested into a test sample consisting of a central block and n test strips. n test strips are uniformly distributed along the circumferential direction of the central block, and n is more than or equal to 4.
Secondly, placing the sample to be tested on the top surface of the fabric placing table; the top surface of the fabric placing table is in a regular n-edge shape; the n test strips on the tested sample are respectively perpendicular to and in contact with the n edges of the top surface of the fabric placing table. Thereafter, the center block of the sample to be tested was pressed with a pressing cover. The n test strips on the test specimen naturally sag under the action of gravity.
And step three, after the tested sample is kept still for a preset time, shooting the tested sample at a overlooking visual angle by using a camera to obtain a fabric suspension photo.
Step four, processing the fabric suspension photo to obtain the area S of the suspension section of the n test strips on the fabric suspension photo1～Sn。
Step five, calculating the bending property W of the tested sample in n/2 directionsiThe following;
Wi＝(Si+Si+n/2)/2S0
wherein ,WiThe bending property of the tested sample in the ith direction is shown; 1,2, n/2. S0The area of the side of the overhanging section of any one test strip. The smaller the flexibility of the tested sample in one direction, the more easily the tested garment material is bent in that direction.
Step six, calculating the bending standard deviation A of the tested sample as follows:
wherein ,WiThe bendability in the ith direction, i ═ 1,2,3, 4;
step seven, calculating the bending anisotropy of the tested clothing fabric
The larger the bending anisotropy M is, the more obvious the bending anisotropy of the tested clothing fabric is.
Preferably, in step one, the number n of test strips is equal to 8. The specific process of cutting the tested sample is as follows:
1-1, ironing and flattening the tested garment fabric, finishing the fabric into a shape that warp yarns are perpendicular to weft yarns, ironing and shaping the fabric again, and cutting the fabric into a square sample;
1-2.first, second and third fold lines are drawn on the sides of the square test specimen. The first folding line is a connecting line of midpoints of two opposite sides of the square sample; the second folding line is a connecting line of the first folding line and the middle point of one side edge of the square sample; the third folding line is a connecting line of the middle point of the first folding line and one vertex of the square sample; the second fold line, the third fold line, and the sides of the square test piece form a right triangle on the square test piece, which is a characteristic triangle.
1-3, drawing a cutting rectangle on the characteristic triangle. Cutting the rectangle into a rectangle; two end points of one width side of the rectangle are respectively arranged on the second folding line and the third folding line, and the distances from the two end points to the middle point of the first folding line are equal.
1-4, folding the square sample for three times along the first folding line, the second folding line and the third folding line, and exposing a cut rectangle; then ironing and shaping are carried out.
1-5, cutting the folded square sample along the cutting rectangle to obtain a rectangular and isosceles triangular combination; and unfolding to obtain a tested sample in a shape of a Chinese character 'mi'.
Preferably, one side of the square specimen is at an angle of 22.5 ° to the warp direction of the sample being tested. In the step 1-1, a fabric cutting template is used for assisting when a square sample is cut out; the fabric cutting template is made of non-deformable organic glass and is in a right trapezoid shape, and the included angle between the bottom edge and the non-right-angle side edge is 22.5 degrees. The specific process of cutting out a square sample is as follows: placing the fabric cutting template on the fabric of the garment to be tested, and enabling the upper bottom edge to be coincided with the warp direction of the fabric of the garment to be tested; secondly, drawing lines along the non-right-angle side edges of the fabric cutting template; and finally, further drawing a square according to the drawn lines and cutting. The center block of the tested sample obtained in the step 1-5 is in a regular octagon shape. Two test strips which are opposite to each other in the eight test strips form a group to form four groups of test strips. The length directions of the four groups of test belts are respectively aligned with the warp direction, the 45-degree direction, the weft direction and the 135-degree direction of the tested clothing fabric.
Preferably, before the second step, the cut sample to be tested is ironed and flattened, and the crease generated in the first step is removed.
Preferably, the method for obtaining the area of the overhanging section of the test strip in the fourth step is as follows: inputting the fabric hanging photo into autoCAD software in a computer, and adjusting the size of the measured fabric in the fabric hanging photo to be consistent with the real size of the measured fabric by using the autoCAD software; and extracting the characteristic parameters by using a self-contained graph area query function of autoCAD software. The characteristic parameters comprise the area S of the n test strip pendulous sections in the fabric pendulous picture1～Sn；
Preferably, the testing device adopted by the invention comprises a test bed, a camera fixing frame, a camera, a fabric placing table and a gland. The camera fixing frame is fixed on the test bed. The top of the camera fixing frame is provided with a camera, and the height of the camera fixing frame is adjustable. The fabric placing table is installed on the test bed and is located right below the camera. The top surface of the fabric placing table is in a regular n-edge shape; the side length of the top surface of the fabric placing table is larger than or equal to the width of a test strip of a tested sample. The top surface of the fabric placing table is provided with a gland. The bottom surface shape of the gland is the same as the top surface shape of the fabric placing table.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
1. the method can simultaneously detect the flexibility indexes of a tested sample in different directions, so that the bending anisotropy of the garment material can be obtained only by one sample, and the method has the characteristics of simplicity, convenience and strong operability.
2. The sample to be tested is in a shape of Chinese character 'mi', and the sample can be formed only by cutting three times by the folding cutting method, so that the sample preparation efficiency is high; and in the eight test strips obtained by cutting, the direction difference of two adjacent test strips is 45 degrees, so that the bending anisotropy of the garment material can be fully explained.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic structural diagram of a testing apparatus used in the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of a square sample cut out in step one of the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram of a square sample after drawing a line in step one of the present invention;
FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram of a square sample after being folded and cut in step one of the present invention;
FIG. 5 is a schematic view of a sample to be tested obtained in the first step of the present invention;
FIG. 6 is a schematic representation of a hanging photograph of the fabric obtained in step three of the present invention;
FIG. 7 is a graph of the bend anisotropy relationship scatter plot of the bend anisotropy obtained by the present invention for different fabrics and the bend anisotropy relationship obtained by the same test of the bending stiffness.
Detailed Description
The invention is further described below with reference to the accompanying drawings.
As shown in figure 1, the testing device adopted by the method for testing the bending anisotropy of the garment material comprises a test bed 4, a camera fixing frame 5, a camera 1, a fabric placing table 2, a gland 3, a computer and a fabric cutting template. The camera fixing frame 5 is fixed on the test bed 4. The top of the camera fixing frame 5 is provided with a camera, and the height of the camera is adjustable. The fabric placing table 2 is installed on the test bed 4 and is located right below the camera 1. The top surface of the fabric placing table 2 is in a regular octagon shape, and the side length is 2.5 cm; the height of the fabric placing table 2 is 10 cm. A gland 3 is arranged on the top surface of the fabric placing table 2. The shape of the bottom surface of the gland 3 is completely the same as that of the top surface of the fabric placing table 2. The signal output line of the camera is connected with the computer. The computer is used for processing the pictures shot by the camera and extracting parameters; the autoCAD software is installed in the computer.
The fabric cutting template is made of non-deformable organic glass and is in the shape of a right trapezoid, the length of the upper bottom edge of the right trapezoid is 16.3cm, the length of the lower bottom edge of the right trapezoid is 10cm, the height of the lower bottom edge of the right trapezoid is 1.25cm, and an included angle between the upper bottom edge and the non-right-angled side edge of the right trapezoid is 22.5 degrees and is used for drawing a straight line which forms an included angle of 22.5 degrees with the warp direction of the measured garment fabric on the measured garment fabric.
The method for testing the bending anisotropy of the garment fabric comprises the following steps:
firstly, cutting the garment fabric to be tested into a sample 7 to be tested, wherein the sample 7 consists of a central block 7-1 and eight test strips 7-2. Eight test strips 7-2 are uniformly distributed along the circumferential direction of the central block 7-1.
1-1, ironing and flattening the fabric of the garment to be tested, finishing the fabric into a shape that warp yarns are perpendicular to weft yarns, ironing and shaping the fabric again, and cutting the fabric into a square sample 6 with the side length of 32.6 cm; one side of the square sample 6 forms an included angle of 22.5 degrees with the warp direction of the tested garment material.
Specifically, a fabric cutting template is placed on the fabric of the garment to be measured, and the upper bottom edge is overlapped with the warp direction of the fabric of the garment to be measured; then, drawing a line which forms an angle of 22.5 degrees with the warp direction along the non-right-angle side edge of the fabric cutting template; then, the 22.5 degree line is used as a side to further draw a square and cut.
1-2. As shown in FIG. 3, a first fold line 6-1, a second fold line 6-2, and a third fold line 6-3 are drawn on the sides of a square test specimen 6. The first folding line 6-1 is a connecting line of midpoints of two side edges of the square sample 6; the second folding line 6-2 is a connecting line of the first folding line 6-1 and the midpoint of the third side edge of the square test sample 6; the third fold line 6-3 is a connecting line of the midpoint of the first fold line 6-1 and one vertex of the square test sample 6; the second fold line 6-2 and the third fold line 6-3 separate a right triangle (three vertices of the right triangle are indicated by dots in fig. 3, and the resulting mi-shaped sample under test 7 is indicated by a dashed line) on the square test specimen 6, which is a characteristic triangle.
1-3, drawing a cutting rectangle 6-4 on the characteristic triangle. The width of the cutting rectangle 6-4 is equal to the length of the top surface side of the fabric placing table, two end points of one width side are respectively arranged on the second folding line 6-2 and the third folding line 6-3, and the distances from the two end points to the middle point of the first folding line 6-1 are equal.
1-4, folding the square sample 6 for three times along a first folding line 6-1, a second folding line 6-2 and a third folding line 6-3, and exposing a cut rectangle 6-4; then ironing and shaping are carried out.
1-5, as shown in fig. 4 and 5, cutting the folded square sample 6 along the width side and two length sides of the cut rectangle 6-4 far away from the midpoint of the first folding line 6-1, wherein the cut square sample 6 is a combination of a rectangle and an isosceles triangle; after the test sample 7 is unfolded, the test sample is obtained. The center block 7-1 of the test specimen 7 has a regular octagonal shape. Two mutually opposite test strips 7-2 in the eight test strips 7-2 form a group to form four groups of test strips 7-2. The length directions of the four groups of test belts 7-2 are respectively aligned with the warp direction, the 45-degree direction, the weft direction and the 135-degree direction of the tested clothing fabric. The central block 7-1 of the tested sample 7 has the same shape as the top surface of the fabric placing table; the eight test strips 7-2 were 10cm in length and 2.5cm in width.
And step two, ironing the cut sample to be tested 7 flatly by using an electric iron, after the crease generated in the step one is removed, placing the cut sample to be tested on the top surface of the fabric placing table 2 in the middle, and enabling the eight test strips 7-2 on the sample to be tested 7 to be respectively vertical to and contact with the eight edges of the top surface of the fabric placing table 2. Thereafter, the middle position of the sample 7 is pressed by the pressing cover 3, and the sample 7 is prevented from slipping. The eight test strips 7-2 on the tested sample 7 naturally sag under the action of self gravity to form eight overhanging edges, and the sagging forms are different according to the different bending properties of the test strips 7-2, as shown in fig. 6.
And step three, after the sample 7 to be tested is kept still for 1 minute, a shape top view of the test strip 7-2 of the sample 7 to be tested after sagging is shot by a camera with adjusted parameters and positioned right above the sample 7 to be tested to be used as a fabric hanging photo, as shown in fig. 6.
Step four, inputting the fabric hanging photo into autoCAD software in the computer, and adjusting the size of the fabric to be detected in the fabric hanging photo to be consistent with the real size of the fabric to be detected by using the autoCAD software (namely, the width of the test strip and the inner end in the fabric hanging photo is equal to the width of the fabric to be detected); and extracting the characteristic parameters by using a self-contained graph area query function of autoCAD software. The characteristic parameters comprise the area S of eight test strips 7-2 in the fabric suspension photo1～S8(ii) a The areas of the eight test strips 7-2 are the areas S of the 1 st radial suspended edge1Area S of the 2 nd radially depending edge5(ii) a 1 st 45 degree overhanging edge area S2Area S of the 2 nd latitudinal overhanging edge6Area S of the 1 st latitudinal overhang edge3No. 2 45 degree overhanging edge area S 71 st 135 ° overhanging edge area S4And the 2 nd 135 degree overhanging edge area S8。
At the same time, the side surface area S of the overhanging section of any one test strip 7-2 is obtained0(that is, the side surface area of the portion of the test tape 7-2 exposed from the fabric placing table 2. in this embodiment, since the shape of the center block 7-1 is the same as the shape of the top surface of the fabric placing table 2, the side surface area S of the overhanging portion of the test tape 7-20I.e., the side area of the test strip 7-2);
the side surface area S of the overhanging section of any one of the test strips 7-20Obtained by either of the following two methods:
the method comprises the following steps: and (3) flatly placing the sample 7 to be tested on a flat plate, and taking a picture of the sample 7 to be tested by using the camera parameters which are completely the same as those of the picture of the fabric suspension to obtain a template picture. The dimensions of the template photograph were adjusted using autoCAD software in accordance with the method described previously and the overhanging section side area S of any one of the test strips 7-2 was extracted0。
The method 2 comprises the following steps: multiplying the length and width of the overhanging section of one of the test strips 7-2 to obtain the overhanging section side area S of the test strip 7-20。
Step five, calculating the bending property W of the tested sample 7 in four directions1、W2、W3、W4The following were used:
W1＝(S1+S5)/2S0
W2＝(S2+S6)/2S0
W3＝(S3+S7)/2S0
W4＝(S4+S8)/2S0
flexibility W1、W2、W3、W4Respectively corresponding to the warp direction, the 45-degree direction, the weft direction and the 135-degree direction of the clothing fabric to be side. The smaller the bending value in one direction is, the easier the tested clothing fabric is to bend in the direction; the larger the bending value in one direction is, the more difficult the tested clothing material is to bend in the direction
Step six, calculating the bending standard deviation A of the fabric:
wherein ,WiThe bendability in the ith direction, i ═ 1,2,3, 4;
is the arithmetic mean of the 4 directions of bendability, i.e.
Step seven, calculating the bending anisotropy of the tested clothing fabric
If the bending performances of 4 directions of a piece of fabric are very close, the bending anisotropy of the clothing fabric is not obvious, and M is close to 0; conversely, if the difference in the flexibility in 4 directions is very large, the garment material has a significant bending anisotropy, and M is larger than O. Therefore, when the bending anisotropies of two or more fabrics are compared, only the value of M needs to be compared; the larger the bending anisotropy M is, the more obvious the bending anisotropy of the tested clothing fabric is.
In order to verify the relationship between the results obtained by the method of the present invention and the results obtained by the method specified in the national standard, 15 garment materials were randomly selected, and the specifications of the selected garment materials are shown in table 1. According to GB/T18318-2001, namely measurement of bending length of textile garment materials, the bending stiffness B (mgf.cm) of the garment materials in 4 directions of warp direction, 45 degrees, weft direction and 135 degrees is measured by using a YG (B)022D type full-automatic garment material stiffness tester, and the results are shown in Table 1. The flexural rigidity specified in the national standard for clothing materials and the flexural coefficient of variation obtained by the method of the present invention are shown in table 2. Fig. 7 is a relationship between the bending anisotropies obtained by the two methods, and as can be seen from fig. 7, the bending anisotropies sequences of various garment materials obtained by calculation according to the invention have good consistency with the bending anisotropies sequences obtained by detecting the bending stiffness. However, compared with the existing method for measuring the bending stiffness, the method is simple to operate, and the anisotropy of the measured garment material can be obtained only by cutting one sample; in the prior art, 5 samples need to be cut and tested in each direction by a bending rigidity detection mode, and 20 samples need to be cut and tested in 4 directions.
TABLE 1 garment materials specification parameter table
TABLE 2 bending variation coefficient of garment materials obtained by two methods
Claims (6)
1. A method for testing the bending anisotropy of a garment fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: firstly, cutting a garment fabric to be tested into a test sample consisting of a central block and n test strips; n test strips are uniformly distributed along the circumferential direction of the central block, wherein n is more than or equal to 4;
secondly, placing the sample to be tested on the top surface of the fabric placing table; the top surface of the fabric placing table is in a regular n-edge shape; the n test strips on the tested sample are respectively vertical to and contacted with the n edges of the top surface of the fabric placing table; then, pressing the central block of the tested sample by a gland; the n test strips on the tested sample naturally droop under the action of gravity;
step three, after the tested sample is kept still for a preset time, shooting the tested sample at a overlooking visual angle by using a camera to obtain a fabric suspension photo;
step four, processing the fabric suspension photo to obtain the area S of the suspension section of the n test strips on the fabric suspension photo1～Sn；
Step five, calculating the bending property W of the tested sample in n/2 directionsiThe following;
Wi＝(Si+Si+n/2)/2S0
wherein ,WiThe bending property of the tested sample in the ith direction is shown; 1,2, n/2; s0The area of the side of the overhanging section of any one test strip; the smaller the bending property of the tested sample in one direction is, the easier the tested garment material is to bend in the direction;
step six, calculating the bending standard deviation A of the tested sample as follows:
wherein ,WiThe bendability in the ith direction, i ═ 1,2,3, 4;
step seven, calculating the bending anisotropy of the tested clothing fabric
The larger the bending anisotropy M is, the more obvious the bending anisotropy of the tested clothing fabric is.
2. The method for testing the bending anisotropy of the garment material according to claim 1, characterized in that: in the first step, the number n of the test strips is equal to 8; the specific process of cutting the tested sample is as follows:
1-1, ironing and flattening the tested garment fabric, finishing the fabric into a shape that warp yarns are perpendicular to weft yarns, ironing and shaping the fabric again, and cutting the fabric into a square sample;
1-2, drawing a first folding line, a second folding line and a third folding line on the side surface of a square sample; the first folding line is a connecting line of midpoints of two opposite sides of the square sample; the second folding line is a connecting line of the first folding line and the middle point of one side edge of the square sample; the third folding line is a connecting line of the middle point of the first folding line and one vertex of the square sample; the second folding line, the third folding line and the side of the square sample form a right triangle on the square sample, and the right triangle is a characteristic triangle;
1-3, drawing a cutting rectangle on the characteristic triangle; two end points of one width side of the cut rectangle are respectively arranged on the second folding line and the third folding line; and the distances from the two end points to the middle point of the first folding line are equal;
1-4, folding the square sample for three times along the first folding line, the second folding line and the third folding line, and exposing a cut rectangle; then ironing and shaping;
1-5, cutting the folded square sample along the cutting rectangle to obtain a rectangular and isosceles triangular combination; and unfolding to obtain the tested sample in a shape of Chinese character 'mi'.
3. The method for testing the bending anisotropy of the garment fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that: one side of the square sample forms an included angle of 22.5 degrees with the warp direction of the tested garment material; in the step 1-1, a fabric cutting template is used for assisting when a square sample is cut out; the fabric cutting template is made of non-deformable organic glass and is in a right trapezoid shape, and the included angle between the bottom edge and the non-right-angle side edge is 22.5 degrees; the specific process of cutting out a square sample is as follows: placing the fabric cutting template on the fabric of the garment to be tested, and enabling the upper bottom edge to be coincided with the warp direction of the fabric of the garment to be tested; secondly, drawing lines along the non-right-angle side edges of the fabric cutting template; finally, further drawing a square according to the drawn lines and cutting the square; the center block of the tested sample obtained in the step 1-5 is in a regular octagon shape; two opposite test strips in the eight test strips form a group to form four groups of test strips; the length directions of the four groups of test belts are respectively aligned with the warp direction, the 45-degree direction, the weft direction and the 135-degree direction of the tested clothing fabric.
4. The method for testing the bending anisotropy of the garment fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that: and before the second step is executed, ironing and flattening the cut sample to be tested, and removing the crease generated in the first step.
5. The method for testing the bending anisotropy of the garment material according to claim 1, characterized in that: the method for acquiring the area of the overhanging section of the test strip in the fourth step comprises the following specific steps: inputting the fabric hanging photo into autoCAD software in a computer, and adjusting the size of the measured fabric in the fabric hanging photo to be consistent with the real size of the measured fabric by using the autoCAD software; extracting characteristic parameters by using a self-contained graph area query function of autoCAD software; the characteristic parameters comprise the area S of the n test strip pendulous sections in the fabric pendulous picture1～Sn。
6. The method for testing the bending anisotropy of the garment material according to claim 1, characterized in that: the testing device adopted by the invention comprises a test bed, a camera fixing frame, a camera, a fabric placing table and a gland; the camera fixing frame is fixed on the test bed; the top of the camera fixing frame is provided with a camera, and the height of the camera fixing frame is adjustable; the fabric placing table is arranged on the test bed and is positioned right below the camera; the top surface of the fabric placing table is in a regular n-edge shape; the side length of the top surface of the fabric placing table is greater than or equal to the width of a test strip of a tested sample; a gland is arranged on the top surface of the fabric placing table; the bottom surface shape of the gland is the same as the top surface shape of the fabric placing table.
Priority Applications (1)
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