CN109142357B - Method for testing fabric bending property and drapability in inverted omega mode - Google Patents

Method for testing fabric bending property and drapability in inverted omega mode Download PDF

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CN109142357B
CN109142357B CN201810903578.6A CN201810903578A CN109142357B CN 109142357 B CN109142357 B CN 109142357B CN 201810903578 A CN201810903578 A CN 201810903578A CN 109142357 B CN109142357 B CN 109142357B
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CN109142357A (en
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刘成霞
尹清一
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Xiangshan Difei Clothing Co ltd
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Zhejiang University of Technology ZJUT
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    • GPHYSICS
    • G01MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01NINVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
    • G01N21/00Investigating or analysing materials by the use of optical means, i.e. using sub-millimetre waves, infrared, visible or ultraviolet light
    • G01N21/84Systems specially adapted for particular applications
    • GPHYSICS
    • G01MEASURING; TESTING
    • G01NINVESTIGATING OR ANALYSING MATERIALS BY DETERMINING THEIR CHEMICAL OR PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
    • G01N21/00Investigating or analysing materials by the use of optical means, i.e. using sub-millimetre waves, infrared, visible or ultraviolet light
    • G01N21/84Systems specially adapted for particular applications
    • G01N2021/8444Fibrous material

Abstract

The invention discloses an inverted omega type method for testing the bending property and the drapability of a fabric. Currently, there is no method available to simultaneously test fabric bendability and drapeability. The invention is as follows: firstly, cutting out a first rectangular sample and a second rectangular sample. And i is 1 and 2, and the steps two to seven are sequentially executed. Second, a line was drawn on the ith rectangular sample. And thirdly, sewing the ith rectangular sample into an omega shape. And fourthly, hanging the ith rectangular sample on pins in an inverted mode. And fifthly, measuring the size of the ith rectangular sample. And sixthly, calculating the height-width ratio and the droop aspect ratio of the ith rectangular sample water drop. And seventhly, calculating a predicted value of the bending rigidity and a predicted value of the suspension coefficient of the ith rectangular sample. And eighthly, calculating the bending rigidity and the suspension coefficient of the tested fabric. The invention can obtain three groups of data for measuring the bending property and the drapability in the test of one sample, and the accuracy of the finally obtained bending rigidity and the drapability coefficient can be improved by taking the average value of the obtained three groups of data.

Description

Method for testing fabric bending property and drapability in inverted omega mode
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textile and clothing performance testing, and particularly relates to an inverted omega type method for testing the bending property and the drapability of a fabric.
Background
Fabric flexibility and drape have always been a major concern to textile workers because they have a significant impact on not only the wearing comfort of the fabric, but also the direct appearance of the wearing aesthetics. The scholars adopt a plurality of methods to research the flexibility of the fabric, such as a linear viscoelastic theory, a BP neural network and the like; various methods have also been proposed to test this. Much research on fabric drape has focused on how to model and index extraction fabric drape using various image processing techniques. Heretofore, the measurement of the drapability and the bendability of a fabric has been carried out separately and independently, in other words, there has been no method which can simultaneously measure both properties.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a method for testing the bending property and the drapability of a fabric in an inverted omega manner.
The method comprises the following specific steps:
step one, fixing a pin on a vertical plane. And ironing and flattening the tested fabric, and then cutting the fabric into a first rectangular sample and a second rectangular sample. The first rectangular sample and the second rectangular sample each had a rectangular shape with a length of 240mm and a width of 25 mm. The length of the first rectangular sample was parallel to the warp direction of the fabric being tested. The length direction of the second rectangular sample is parallel to the weft direction of the tested fabric. And i is 1 and 2, and the steps two to seven are sequentially executed.
And step two, drawing a middle dividing line and two quarter lines on the ith rectangular sample. The median line is located between the two quarter lines. The center line and the two quarter lines divide the sample into four parts with completely equal shapes. The median line and the two quarter lines are parallel to the width direction of the ith rectangular sample.
And step three, bending the ith rectangular sample to enable the two quarter lines on the ith rectangular sample to be overlapped. The ith rectangular specimen was then stitched along two quarter lines.
And step four, inverting and hanging the ith rectangular sample obtained in the step three onto the pin, so that the two quarter-line sewing positions are in contact with the pin, and two width edges of the ith rectangular sample are turned out in the direction far away from the pin. The portion between the two quarter lines on the ith rectangular sample forms a water drop portion, and the portion between the quarter line and the corresponding width side forms a drooping portion.
Step five, measuring the width D of the water drop of the ith rectangular sampleiLength of water drop HiFirst vertical transverse distance XiSecond droop transverse distance X'iFirst vertical longitudinal distance YiA second depending longitudinal distance Y'i. Width of water droplet DiI.e. the distance of the outermost edges of the two sides of the drop portion. Water drop length HiI.e. the distance from the bottom of the drop section to the top of the drop section. First sag lateral distance XiThe horizontal distance from the top of the drop portion to the outermost edge of the first depending portion. First sag longitudinal distance YiThe vertical distance between the highest point of the first drooping part and the outermost edge of the first drooping part. Second droop transverse distance X'iThe horizontal distance from the top of the drop portion to the outermost edge of the second depending portion. Second droop longitudinal distance Y'iThe vertical distance between the highest point of the second depending portion and the outermost edge of the second depending portion.
Sixthly, calculating the length-width ratio of the water drop of the ith rectangular sample
Figure BDA0001760055040000021
And sag aspect ratio
Figure BDA0001760055040000022
Step seven, calculating a first bending rigidity predicted value E of the ith rectangular sampleiAnd a second bending stiffness predicted value E'iThe following were used:
Ei=5.6323Ai 2-53.912Ai+129.48;
E′i=6.8701Bi 2-46.214Bi+78.15。
calculating a first drape coefficient prediction value F for the ith rectangular sampleiSecond Fabric drape coefficient predictor F'iThe following were used:
Fi=-0.1001Ai+0.8768;
F′i=-0.127Bi+0.7954。
step eight, calculating the bending rigidity final value E and the suspension coefficient final value F of the tested fabric as follows:
Figure BDA0001760055040000023
Figure BDA0001760055040000024
further, in step five, the water droplet width D of the i-th rectangular sample was measurediLength of water drop HiFirst vertical transverse distance XiSecond droop transverse distance X'iFirst vertical longitudinal distance YiA second depending longitudinal distance Y'iThe method specifically comprises the following steps:
the ith rectangular sample is photographed with a camera from a direction parallel to the width side of the ith rectangular sample. A photograph of the sample was obtained. The sample photograph is imported into autoCAD software. And acquiring the water drop width D of the ith rectangular sample by using the self-provided inquiry distance function of autoCAD softwareiLength of water drop HiFirst vertical transverse distance XiSecond droop transverse distance X'iFirst vertical longitudinal distance YiA second depending longitudinal distance Y'i
The method for querying the distance in the autoCAD software is as follows: and sequentially clicking the tool, the query and the distance, and selecting two points needing to be measured, so as to obtain the distance between the two points.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
1. the invention can simultaneously measure the bending property and the drapability of the fabric. The method avoids two tests aiming at rigidity, flexibility and drapability, greatly accelerates the speed of fabric performance measurement, and shortens the test period.
2. The invention can obtain three groups of data for measuring the bending property and the drapability in the test of one sample, and the accuracy of the finally obtained bending rigidity and the drapability coefficient can be improved by taking the average value of the obtained three groups of data.
3. The invention can finish the measurement of the bending property and the drapability of the fabric only by one rectangular sample, and the process is simple and convenient.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of an i-th rectangular sample prepared by the present invention hung on a white KT plate.
Detailed Description
The invention is further described below with reference to the accompanying drawings.
A method for testing the bending property and the drapability of a fabric in an inverted omega type comprises the following specific steps:
step one, fixing a white KT board on a wall surface, and inserting a pin on the white KT board. And ironing and flattening the tested fabric, and then cutting the fabric into a first rectangular sample and a second rectangular sample. The first rectangular sample and the second rectangular sample each had a rectangular shape with a length of 240mm and a width of 25 mm. The length of the first rectangular sample was parallel to the warp direction of the fabric being tested. The length direction of the second rectangular sample is parallel to the weft direction of the tested fabric. And i is 1 and 2, and the steps two to seven are sequentially executed.
And step two, drawing a middle dividing line and two quarter lines on the ith rectangular sample. The median line is located between the two quarter lines. The median line, two quarter lines, divides the sample into four identical parts (each part being a rectangle of 60mm by 25 mm). The median line and the two quarter lines are parallel to the width direction of the ith rectangular sample.
And step three, bending the ith rectangular sample to enable the two quarter lines on the ith rectangular sample to be overlapped. After that, the ith rectangular sample was sewn along two quarter lines, at which time the ith rectangular sample was in an Ω shape.
Step four, as shown in fig. 1, the ith rectangular sample obtained in the step three is inverted and hung on the pins of the white KT board, so that two quarter-line sewing positions are in contact with the pins, and two width edges of the ith rectangular sample are turned out in the direction far away from the pins and naturally droop. The portion between the two quarter lines on the ith rectangular sample formed a water-drop portion, and the portion between the quarter line and the corresponding width side formed a hanging portion (i.e., the ith rectangular sample consisted of a water-drop portion and a hanging portion).
And fifthly, after one minute, shooting the ith rectangular sample from the direction parallel to the width side of the ith rectangular sample by using a camera. A photograph of the sample was obtained.
The sample photograph is imported into autoCAD software. And acquiring the water drop width D of the ith rectangular sample by using the self-provided inquiry distance function of autoCAD softwareiLength of water drop HiFirst vertical transverse distance XiSecond droop transverse distance X'iFirst vertical longitudinal distance YiA second depending longitudinal distance Y'i. Width of water droplet DiI.e. the distance of the outermost edges of the two sides of the drop portion. Water drop length HiI.e. the distance from the bottom of the drop portion (at the median line) to the top of the drop portion (at the quarter line). First sag lateral distance XiThe horizontal distance from the top of the drop portion (at the quarter line) to the outermost edge of the first sagging portion (the width edge of the ith rectangular sample). First sag longitudinal distance YiThe vertical distance between the highest point of the first drooping part and the outermost edge of the first drooping part. Second droop transverse distance X'iThe horizontal distance from the top of the drop portion (at the quarter line) to the outermost edge of the second depending portion. Second droop longitudinal distance Y'iThe vertical distance between the highest point of the second depending portion and the outermost edge of the second depending portion.
The method for querying the distance in the autoCAD software is as follows: and sequentially clicking the tool, the query and the distance, and selecting two points needing to be measured, so as to obtain the distance between the two points.
Sixthly, calculating the length-width ratio of the water drop of the ith rectangular sample
Figure BDA0001760055040000041
And sag aspect ratio
Figure BDA0001760055040000042
Step seven, calculating a first bending rigidity predicted value E of the ith rectangular sampleiAnd a second bending stiffness predicted value E'iThe following were used:
Ei=5.6323Ai 2-53.912Ai+129.48;
E′i=6.8701Bi 2-46.214Bi+78.15。
calculating a first drape coefficient prediction value F for the ith rectangular sampleiSecond Fabric drape coefficient predictor F'iThe following were used:
Fi=-0.1001Ai+0.8768;
F′i=-0.127Bi+0.7954。
step eight, calculating the bending rigidity final value E and the suspension coefficient final value F of the tested fabric as follows:
Figure BDA0001760055040000051
Figure BDA0001760055040000052

Claims (2)

1. the method for testing the bending property and the drapability of the fabric in an inverted omega manner comprises the following steps: firstly, fixing a pin on a vertical plane; ironing and flattening the tested fabric, and cutting the fabric into a first rectangular sample and a second rectangular sample; the first rectangular sample and the second rectangular sample are both rectangles with the length of 240mm and the width of 25 mm; the length direction of the first rectangular sample is parallel to the warp direction of the tested fabric; the length direction of the second rectangular sample is parallel to the weft direction of the tested fabric; 1,2, and sequentially executing steps two to seven; the method is characterized in that:
drawing a middle dividing line and two quarter lines on the ith rectangular sample; the middle division line is positioned between the two quarter lines; the middle line and the two quarter lines divide the sample into four parts with completely equal shapes; the middle dividing line and the two quarter lines are parallel to the width direction of the ith rectangular sample;
step three, bending the ith rectangular sample to enable two quarter lines on the ith rectangular sample to be overlapped; then, stitching the ith rectangular sample along two quarter lines;
step four, inverting and hanging the ith rectangular sample obtained in the step three on a pin, so that two quarter-line sewing positions are in contact with the pin, and two width edges of the ith rectangular sample are turned out in a direction far away from the pin; the part between the two quarter lines on the ith rectangular sample forms a water drop part, and the part between the quarter line and the corresponding width side forms a drooping part;
step five, measuring the width D of the water drop of the ith rectangular sampleiLength of water drop HiFirst vertical transverse distance XiSecond sagging transverse distance Xi', first vertical longitudinal distance YiSecond sagging longitudinal distance Yi'; width of water droplet DiNamely the distance between the outermost edges of the two sides of the water drop part; water drop length HiI.e. the distance from the bottom of the drop portion to the top of the drop portion; first sag lateral distance XiThe horizontal distance from the top of the water drop part to the outermost edge of the first drooping part; first sag longitudinal distance YiThe vertical distance between the highest point of the first drooping part and the outermost edge of the first drooping part; second sagging transverse distance Xi' is the horizontal distance from the top of the drop portion to the outermost edge of the second depending portion; second sag longitudinal distance Yi' is the vertical distance between the highest point of the second depending portion and the outermost edge of the second depending portion;
sixthly, calculating the length-width ratio of the water drop of the ith rectangular sample
Figure FDA0002657134490000011
And sag aspect ratio
Figure FDA0002657134490000012
Step seven, calculating a first bending rigidity predicted value E of the ith rectangular sampleiSecond bending stiffness prediction value Ei' the following:
Ei=5.6323Ai 2-53.912Ai+129.48;
E′i=6.8701Bi 2-46.214Bi+78.15;
calculating a first drape coefficient prediction value F for the ith rectangular sampleiSecond fabric drape coefficient predictor Fi' the following:
Fi=-0.1001Ai+0.8768;
Fi′=-0.127Bi+0.7954;
step eight, calculating the bending rigidity final value E and the suspension coefficient final value F of the tested fabric as follows:
Figure FDA0002657134490000021
Figure FDA0002657134490000022
2. the method for testing the bending and draping properties of fabrics according to claim 1, characterized in that: in the fifth step, the water droplet width D of the ith rectangular sample is measurediLength of water drop HiFirst vertical transverse distance XiSecond sagging transverse distance Xi', first vertical longitudinal distance YiSecond sagging longitudinal distance YiThe method of' is specifically as follows:
shooting an ith rectangular sample from a direction parallel to the width side of the ith rectangular sample by using a camera; obtaining a sample photo; importing the sample photo into autoCAD software; and acquiring the water drop width D of the ith rectangular sample by using the self-provided inquiry distance function of autoCAD softwareiLength of water drop HiFirst vertical transverse distance XiSecond sagging transverse distance Xi', first vertical longitudinal distance YiSecond sagging longitudinal distance Yi′;
The method for querying the distance in the autoCAD software is as follows: and sequentially clicking the tool, the query and the distance, and selecting two points needing to be measured, so as to obtain the distance between the two points.
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CN111487249B (en) * 2020-05-22 2023-06-02 杭州万事利丝绸数码印花有限公司 Garment fabric bending anisotropy test method

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