CN113279110B - Air-permeable and moisture-permeable down-proof cloth and weaving method thereof - Google Patents
Air-permeable and moisture-permeable down-proof cloth and weaving method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN113279110B CN113279110B CN202110498440.4A CN202110498440A CN113279110B CN 113279110 B CN113279110 B CN 113279110B CN 202110498440 A CN202110498440 A CN 202110498440A CN 113279110 B CN113279110 B CN 113279110B
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/26—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
- D02G3/28—Doubled, plied, or cabled threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
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- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
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- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
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Abstract
The invention provides air-permeable and moisture-permeable down-proof cloth and a weaving method thereof, belonging to the technical field of textile fabrics. The air-permeable and moisture-permeable down-proof cloth is made up by using warp yarn and weft yarn and making them pass through warp-weft interweaving process by means of auxiliary yarn, and the auxiliary yarn is a hydrolyzable hydrolyzed polyester yarn, and can be hydrolyzed under the condition of that the caustic soda flake concentration is not less than 8g/L, temp. is above 95 deg.C and the concentration of special-purpose fibre-removing adjuvant is not less than 0.6 g/L. A weaving method of air-permeable and moisture-permeable down-proof cloth comprises the following steps: twisting the common warp or weft to be used as the anti-feather cloth; the twisted warp or weft and the auxiliary yarn are folded and twisted; shaping the twisted yarn; carrying out warp and weft interweaving on the twisted warp yarns and the twisted weft yarns to form anti-feather grey cloth; hydrolyzing the hydrolyzed polyester yarns in the grey cloth of the anti-feather cloth. The down-proof cloth of the invention not only can be air-permeable and moisture-permeable, but also has spiral air gaps, and does not leak down and escape.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a down-proof cloth, in particular to a breathable and moisture-permeable down-proof cloth and a weaving method thereof, belonging to the technical field of spinning.
Background
Because the down jacket is warm and light, the down jacket is popular in the market. People want to take various measures to prevent down from getting out of the garment fabric. The ultimate aim of increasing the warp and weft density to the limit is to flatten the fabric by using a compression roller and to coat the fabric, namely to prevent the penetration of the lint and prevent the fleeing of the lint. However, the method brings a side effect, and the down-proof fabric has high tightness and extremely small air permeability, and the hand feeling of the fabric becomes hard, so that friction sound is generated after the down-proof fabric is coated with glue. All this gives the anti-feathering fabric some drawbacks. People hope to have the down jacket, but the down jacket has the advantages of good hand feeling, no friction sound, air permeability and moisture permeability, and is comfortable to wear, and the market urgently hopes that the down jacket appears as early as possible.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide the air-permeable and moisture-permeable down-proof cloth and the weaving method thereof.
The technical scheme adopted by the invention for solving the technical problems is as follows:
the air-permeable and moisture-permeable down-proof cloth is made up by using warp yarn and weft yarn and adopting the invented weaving method to interweave warp and weft yarns.
The warp yarn can be any warp yarn which is used as down-proof fabric in the existing market, and can be natural fiber yarn or chemical fiber yarn.
The weft yarn can be any weft yarn which is used as a down-proof fabric in the existing market, can be natural fiber yarn, and can also be chemical fiber yarn.
The auxiliary yarn is a hydrolyzable hydrolyzed polyester yarn, and can be hydrolyzed under the alkaline environment with the flake alkali concentration not lower than 8g/L, the temperature of more than 95 ℃ and the concentration of the special yarn withdrawing additive not lower than 0.6 g/L.
A weaving method of air-permeable and moisture-permeable down-proof cloth comprises the following steps:
step (1), twisting the common warp or weft to be used as the anti-feather cloth respectively in a Z direction or an S direction,
step (2), plying and twisting the twisted warp or weft and the auxiliary yarn, if the warp or weft is twisted in Z direction, then plying and twisting the warp or weft and the auxiliary yarn respectively in S direction, if the warp or weft is twisted in S direction, then plying and twisting the warp or weft and the auxiliary yarn in Z direction,
step (3), the folded yarns are shaped,
step (4), the twisted warp yarns and the twisted weft yarns are interwoven into the grey cloth of the anti-feather cloth,
step (5), hydrolyzing the auxiliary yarn hydrolyzed polyester yarn in the gray cloth of the anti-feather cloth, washing with clear water,
step (6), finishing after dyeing and finishing,
and (7) checking and warehousing.
Further, the conventional warp yarn to be used as the anti-feathering cloth is twisted again in the Z direction if it has the twist direction in the Z direction, and is twisted again in the S direction if it has the twist direction in the S direction. Similarly, a conventional weft yarn to be used as a cloth for preventing feathering is twisted again in the Z direction if it has a twist in the Z direction, and in the S direction if it has a twist in the S direction. The twist may be between 8 and 20/cm.
And further, the twisted warp yarns or weft yarns and the auxiliary yarns are plied and twisted.
If the final product requires 0 twist of the warp or weft yarns, the twisted warp or weft yarns are simply reverse twisted. If the warp or weft yarn originally has 10 twists/cm in the S direction, the folded yarn Z has 10 twists/cm. If the original Z direction is 10/cm twisting degree, the stranded yarn S is added with 10/cm twisting degree.
If the final product requires that the warp yarn or weft yarn has 8 twists/cm, the twisted warp yarn or weft yarn is twisted in the reverse direction until the original twist is added with 8 twists. If the warp or weft yarn originally has 10 twists/cm in the S direction, the plied yarn is twisted in the Z direction to 10+8 or 18 twists/cm. If the warp or weft yarn originally has 10 twists/cm in the Z direction, the plied yarn S is twisted to 10+8 or 18 twists/cm.
Further, the twisted yarn is subjected to steam setting and is set for 4 hours at the temperature of 110 ℃.
Furthermore, the twisted and shaped warp and weft yarns are subjected to one-over-one-lower plain warp and weft weaving, and the titer of the warp yarns and the weft yarns is thicker than that of the original warp yarns and weft yarns, so that the warp density of the fabric is increased greatly, and certain difficulty is brought to weaving.
The tightness of the warp is increased, and the problem of increasing the warp density is solved by using the heddles with high and low heddle holes, wherein odd heddle warp holes are 1-2 mm above a central line, and even heddle warp holes are 1-2 mm below the central line, so that the opening definition is not influenced, the positions between the warps are three-dimensional, and the problem of increasing the warp density is solved.
The tightness of weft density is increased, and the problems of warp density increase are solved by using tight warp yarns and loose warp yarns, so that odd weft yarns are positioned above tight warp yarns, even weft yarns are positioned below tight warp yarns, the positions between the weft yarns are three-dimensional, and the problem of weft density increase is solved.
The combined use of the two technologies is the best method for weaving the down-proof cloth of the invention to solve the tightness of the high-warp-density and high-weft-density fabrics.
Further, hydrolyzing the grey cloth of the anti-feather cloth containing the hydrolyzed polyester yarns, putting the grey cloth of the anti-feather cloth into 10 times of water, adding caustic soda flakes to reach the concentration of 8-12g/L, adding a yarn-removing auxiliary agent to reach the concentration of 0.6-0.8g/L, heating to 95 ℃ after cloth discharging, keeping the temperature for more than 40 minutes, then washing with warm water twice, completely hydrolyzing the hydrolyzed polyester yarns at the moment, and carrying out a normal dyeing and finishing procedure.
Furthermore, the twisted and well-shaped folded yarn can be directly hydrolyzed to remove the hydrolyzed polyester yarn through hydrolysis, and the folded yarn can be loosely wound by using bobbin dyeing equipment according to the method to greatly reduce the weaving difficulty, and then the normal dyeing and finishing procedure is carried out.
After dyeing and finishing, checking and warehousing, the down-proof cloth with air and moisture permeability is obtained.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following advantages and effects: the warp and weft yarns for weaving the anti-feathering cloth are twisted, plied with the auxiliary yarns and twisted reversely, then the auxiliary yarns are hydrolyzed and separated, the warp and weft yarns are twisted positively and reversely, and are loosened, soft and fluffy, and are finally twisted or untwisted, and the auxiliary yarns are plied and wound and finally hydrolyzed, so that spiral textures are formed on the surfaces of the warp and weft yarns, and the density of the spiral textures on the surfaces of the warp and weft yarns is determined by the size of the plying twist. The size of the ply twist, the size of the initial twist of the warp and the weft, the amount of twist finally left on the warp and the weft, and the air permeability and the moisture permeability are in a certain combination relationship. It can also be considered that: the larger the ratio of the initial twist to the reverse ply twist, the larger the air and moisture permeability. The down in the down-proof cloth is solid or powdery, and most of the down in the down-proof cloth can only be drilled in the pores of the cloth cover. The air gaps of the down-proof cloth are in the shape of spiral grains, so that down feather cannot be bent and wound along with the spiral-grain-shaped air gaps. In addition, the weaving method of the invention can increase the weaving force to reach the warp and weft density of the warp and weft in the original state, and the warp and weft are fluffy and bulky at present, so the feather prevention effect is better. The spiral texture on the surfaces of the warp and weft yarns is better than that of a bent channel, so that gas and liquid can be bent along the channel to enter and exit, the air and moisture permeable effects are improved, and the down jacket is more comfortable to wear.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is an enlarged schematic view of a common yarn and a hydrolyzed polyester yarn after being folded and hydrolyzed in sequence.
Fig. 2 is a schematic diagram of the position of the warp yarn when the anti-feather fabric of the invention is woven.
FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram showing the weft position when the anti-feather fabric of the present invention is woven.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in further detail below by way of examples with reference to the accompanying drawings, which are illustrative of the present invention and are not to be construed as limiting the present invention.
In FIG. 1:
a is the warp or weft of the untwisted anti-feather cloth with texture on the surface of the yarn,
A 1 is the texture of the surface of the yarn in the Z direction,
A 2 is an untwisted yarn body, and is provided with a yarn core,
b is warp or weft of anti-feather cloth with twist and texture on the surface of the yarn,
B 1 is the texture of the surface of the yarn in the Z direction,
B 2 is a yarn body twisted in the S direction,
c is the twisted warp or weft of the anti-feather cloth with texture on the surface of the yarn,
C 1 is the texture of the yarn surface in the S direction,
C 2 is a yarn body twisted in the Z direction,
d is the twisted warp or weft of the anti-feather cloth with texture on the surface of the yarn,
D 1 is the texture of the surface of the yarn in the Z direction,
D 2 is a yarn body twisted in the Z direction,
in FIG. 2:
z is the central line of the harness wire arrangement during weaving,
S 1 is the center line deviation of the heddle holeThe harness wires are arranged on the upper side of the harness wire,
S 2 for penetrating S 1 The warp yarns of (a) are,
J 1 is a heddle with a lower central line of a heddle hole,
J 2 to penetrate into J 1 The warp yarns of (a) are,
in fig. 3:
T 1 is a tight warp yarn in the warp yarns during weaving,
T 2 the loose warp yarns in the warp yarns during weaving,
W 1 the weft yarns separated by the tight warp yarns in weaving,
W 2 is the weft yarn separated by the warp yarns under the warp yarns during weaving.
Example one
As shown in a in fig. 1, the feathering prevention cloth with warp and weft yarns of 0 twist is woven:
and (1) twisting the warp or weft in the S direction for 8/cm according to the body twisting direction.
And (2) combining and twisting the yarn and the hydrolyzed polyester yarn, and adding 8Z-direction twists per cm.
And (3) shaping the twisted yarn.
Step (4), weaving according to the process requirement,
and (4-1), pressing 1 heddle with a heddle hole inclined to the upper 1-2 mm and 1-2 heddles with a heddle hole inclined to the lower 1-2 mm: 1 pieces of warp yarn are arranged in proportion, are arranged on one heald frame and are sequentially arranged and installed, and the warp yarns sequentially penetrate through the heald frame,
step (4-2), setting the single number of warps as tight warps, setting the even number of warps as loose warps, carrying out plain weaving with wefts one on top and one on bottom according to the above conditions,
and (5) putting the woven grey cloth into water which is 10 times of the weight of the grey cloth, adding caustic soda flakes to the concentration of 8-12g/L, adding a silk-removing auxiliary agent to the concentration of 0.6-0.8g/L, heating to 95 ℃, keeping the temperature for more than 40 minutes, and then washing twice with warm water.
And (6) entering the next conventional dyeing and finishing process.
Example two
As shown in B of fig. 1, the weaving warp and weft yarns have 16Z-direction/cm twists of the anti-feather cloth:
and (1) twisting the warp or weft yarns for 10/cm according to the twisting direction of the body S.
And (2) combining and twisting the yarn and the hydrolyzed polyester yarn, and adding 26Z-direction twists/cm.
And (3) shaping the twisted yarn.
Step (4), weaving according to the process requirement,
and (4-1), pressing 1 heddle with a heddle hole inclined to the upper 1-2 mm and 1-2 heddles with a heddle hole inclined to the lower 1-2 mm: 1 pieces of warp yarn are arranged in proportion, are arranged on one heald frame and are sequentially arranged and installed, and the warp yarns sequentially penetrate through the heald frame,
step (4-2), setting the single number of warp yarns as tight warp yarns, setting the even number of warp yarns as loose warp yarns, weaving the tight warp yarns and the loose warp yarns in a plain weave mode one above the other with weft yarns,
and (5) putting the woven grey cloth into water which is 10 times of the weight of the grey cloth, adding caustic soda flakes to the concentration of 8-12g/L, adding a silk-removing auxiliary agent to the concentration of 0.6-0.8g/L, heating to 95 ℃, keeping the temperature for more than 40 minutes, and then washing twice with warm water.
And (6) entering the next conventional dyeing and finishing process.
EXAMPLE III
As shown in D of fig. 1, the woven warp and weft yarn has S-direction twist of 10/cm:
and (1) twisting the warp or weft in the S direction of the body S for 2 pieces/cm.
And (2) combining and twisting the yarn and the hydrolyzed polyester yarn, and adding S direction for twisting 8 yarns/cm.
And (3) shaping the twisted yarn.
Step (4), weaving according to the process requirement,
and (4-1), pressing 1 heddle with a heddle hole inclined to the upper 1-2 mm and 1-2 heddles with a heddle hole inclined to the lower 1-2 mm: 1 pieces of warp yarn are arranged in proportion, are arranged on one heald frame and are sequentially arranged and installed, and the warp yarns sequentially penetrate through the heald frame,
step (4-2), setting a single number of warps as tight warps, setting even number of warps as loose warps, weaving the tight warps with the wefts in a plain weave one on top of the other,
and (5) putting the woven grey cloth into water which is 10 times of the weight of the grey cloth, adding caustic soda flakes to the concentration of 8-12g/L, adding a silk-removing auxiliary agent to the concentration of 0.6-0.8g/L, heating to 95 ℃, keeping the temperature for more than 40 minutes, and then washing twice with warm water.
And (6) entering the next conventional dyeing and finishing process.
Example four
The twisted and shaped folded yarn can be directly hydrolyzed by hydrolysis to hydrolyze the hydrolyzed polyester yarn, and the folded yarn can be loosely wound by using a bobbin dyeing device according to the method to greatly reduce the weaving difficulty, and then the normal dyeing and finishing procedure is carried out.
The above description of the present invention is intended to be illustrative. Various modifications, additions and substitutions for the specific embodiments described may be made by those skilled in the art without departing from the scope of the invention as defined in the accompanying claims.
Claims (1)
1. A weaving method of air-permeable and moisture-permeable down-proof cloth is characterized in that: the air-permeable and moisture-permeable down-proof cloth is formed by warp and weft yarns and auxiliary yarns through warp and weft interweaving, the warp yarns can be any warp yarns, natural fiber yarns or chemical fiber yarns, which are used as down-proof fabrics in the existing market, the weft yarns can be any weft yarns, which are used as down-proof fabrics in the existing market, natural fiber yarns or chemical fiber yarns, the auxiliary yarns are hydrolyzable hydrolyzed polyester yarns, and the hydrolysis of the auxiliary yarns can be carried out under the alkaline environment with the flake alkali concentration not lower than 8g/L, the temperature is above 95 ℃, and the concentration of a special silk-removing auxiliary agent is not lower than 0.6g/L,
the method specifically comprises the following steps:
step (1), twisting the common warp or weft to be used as the anti-feather cloth respectively, wherein the twisting direction is Z direction or S direction, if the twist direction of the common warp to be used as the anti-feather cloth is Z direction, the Z direction is twisted, if the twist direction of the common warp is S direction, the S direction is twisted, similarly, if the twist direction of the common weft to be used as the anti-feather cloth is Z direction, the Z direction is twisted, if the twist direction of the common weft is S direction, the S direction is twisted, the twist degree can be between 8-20/cm,
step (2), the twisted warp or weft and the auxiliary yarn are twisted together and twisted, if the twisting direction of the warp or weft is Z direction, the twisting direction of the warp or weft and the auxiliary yarn is S direction, if the twisting direction of the warp or weft is S direction, the twisting direction of the warp or weft and the auxiliary yarn is Z direction, if the final finished product requires that the warp or weft is 0 twist, the twist and the twist direction of the twisted warp or weft and the original warp or weft are twisted in reverse direction, and the original twist is added to twist, if the final finished product requires that the warp or weft has n/cm twists, the twisted yarn is twisted in reverse direction to the original twist plus n twists, if the original twist is m/cm twists in S direction, the twisted yarn is twisted in Z direction to m + n/cm twists, if the twist is m/cm twists in the Z direction, the plied yarn S is twisted to m + n/cm twists,
step (3), shaping the twisted yarns, carrying out steam shaping on the twisted yarns, shaping for 4 hours at the temperature of 110 ℃,
step (4), carrying out warp and weft interweaving on the twisted and shaped warp yarns and the twisted and shaped weft yarns to weave anti-feather grey cloth, carrying out warp and weft weaving on the twisted and shaped warp yarns, wherein the fineness of the warp yarns and the weft yarns is thicker than that of the original warp yarns and weft yarns, the tightness of the warp density is increased, the problem is solved by heddles with high and low heddle holes, odd warp yarn heddle holes are 1-2 mm above a central line, even warp yarn heddle holes are 1-2 mm below the central line, the tightness of the weft density is increased, the problem is solved by tight warp yarns and loose warp yarns, the odd weft yarns are above the tight warp yarns, the even weft yarns are below the tight warp yarns,
step (5), hydrolyzing the hydrolyzed polyester yarns of the auxiliary yarns in the grey cloth of the anti-feather cloth, washing with clear water, hydrolyzing the grey cloth of the anti-feather cloth containing the hydrolyzed polyester yarns, putting the grey cloth of the anti-feather cloth into 10 times of water, adding caustic soda flakes to reach the concentration of 8-12g/L, adding a yarn withdrawing auxiliary agent to reach the concentration of 0.6-0.8g/L, heating to 95 ℃ after cloth feeding, keeping for more than 40 minutes, washing with warm water twice, completely hydrolyzing the hydrolyzed polyester yarns,
step (6), finishing after dyeing and finishing,
and (7) checking and warehousing.
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| DE19602833C2 (en) * | 1996-01-26 | 1999-03-11 | Uhl Anja Dipl Designerin Fh | Method of making a patterned fabric and fabric made by the method |
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| CN103590167A (en) * | 2013-10-23 | 2014-02-19 | 苏州天玺纺织制品有限公司 | Left-right-twisted fabric processing and dyeing process |
| CN105155095A (en) * | 2015-10-09 | 2015-12-16 | 淄博银仕来纺织有限公司 | Superfine superhigh-density imitated silk down-proof fabric and preparation method thereof |
| CN108950817B (en) * | 2018-08-15 | 2020-06-02 | 达亚帆布(上海)有限公司 | Base cloth capable of improving tear strength before gluing and weaving method thereof |
| CN108893834B (en) * | 2018-08-15 | 2020-06-02 | 达亚帆布(上海)有限公司 | Plain base fabric and weaving method thereof |
| CN112095204A (en) * | 2020-07-30 | 2020-12-18 | 张健 | Method capable of increasing water absorption and moisture removal functions of chemical fiber filaments |
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