CN113181081A - 一种含有抗炎控油功能组合物的化妆品及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种含有抗炎控油功能组合物的化妆品及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN113181081A CN113181081A CN202110365240.1A CN202110365240A CN113181081A CN 113181081 A CN113181081 A CN 113181081A CN 202110365240 A CN202110365240 A CN 202110365240A CN 113181081 A CN113181081 A CN 113181081A
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种含有抗炎控油功能组合物的化妆品及其制备方法。所述含有抗炎控油功能组合物的化妆品由以下重量份数的组分组成：抗炎控油功能组合物、成膜剂、非离子表面活性剂、增稠剂、液态油分、保湿剂、余量为去离子水。抗炎控油功能组合物为炉甘石、氧化锌、羟基磷灰石的混合物。该抗炎控油功能组合物能够定向吸收皮肤上的油脂，并絮凝固化皮脂，在具有控油效果的同时还具有抗炎保湿的功效。有效减少皮肤分泌的油脂对妆容的影响，增加后续底妆产品的持妆效果，减少后续底妆产品中的粉体对皮肤造成的炎症。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于化妆品技术领域，具体地说，涉及一种含有抗炎控油功能组合物的化妆品及其制备方法。
背景技术
皮脂是由皮肤里面的皮脂腺细胞生成、被分泌到皮肤表面的油。经研究证明，皮脂的组成大致如下：约57％的甘油三酯或脂肪酸，约23％的蜡酯，约12％的角鲨烯，约3％的甾醇酯，1-2％的胆固醇。过多的皮脂分布在皮肤表面，就会堵塞毛孔，造成角质粗厚，形成痤疮，脂溢性皮炎等皮肤疾病。随着妆后时间延长，妆容很难保持如初，容易色粉聚集现象。且人体分泌的油脂会将彩妆产品中某些成分溶解，从而出现脱妆现象；过度分泌的油脂会造成面部泛油光，或底妆吸油暗沉，影响美感。
目前市场上出现的各类控油产品中大都使用多孔型的功能粉体，例如多孔型二氧化硅，多孔型聚甲基丙烯酸酯，小粒径的实心球体功能粉，以及一些吸油能力较强的碳酸镁等实现控油功能，此类产品存在以下几类问题：(1)吸附不具有选择性，在吸收皮肤分泌的油脂的同时也吸收皮肤上的水分(2)不具有固化作用，在吸收皮肤分泌油脂后不能将其固化，从而影响后续妆容持久性(3)作用比较单一，控油效果欠佳的同时没有抗炎效果，长期使用甚至会产生皮肤过分干燥，闷痘现象。
氧化锌为收敛药物对皮肤有轻度抑菌、吸附油脂、收敛滋润、保护的作用。可治疗湿疹、皮肤瘙痒等症状。另外，氧化锌不透光，因此可以用于防晒和遮瑕等。
羟基磷灰石(Ca10(PO4)6(OH)2)是一种弱碱性磷酸钙化合物。具有涂抹后不泛白的特性，长期使用也不会产生皮肤上的固体累积与残留,具有优异的生物相容性，其具有较大的比表面积与较高的表面活性，其表面羟基和钙离子以及其多孔结构对油分进行吸附和包埋。
炉甘石为中药外用矿物药，主要成分为碳酸锌(ZnCO3)。在中医上，炉甘石用于治疗目赤翳障，溃疡不敛和皮肤湿疮。化妆品用的炉甘石为淡粉红色粉末，涂抹到皮肤上能帮助镇静舒缓和修复受损肌肤，并通过光的反射原理同时提升肌肤光泽度，在功效和表观上都起到修正肤色的效果。在妆前乳中炉甘石在一定意义上可取代钛粉，减少钛粉对皮肤造成的不适感，可隔绝后续妆容中钛粉与皮肤接触所造成的皮肤负担，起到修饰肤色和养肤的双重效果。
氧化锌、炉甘石、羟基磷灰石的混合物是一种定向吸收皮脂并絮凝固化皮脂的功能性粉体。避免妆前乳中钛粉吸油后颜色暗沉的问题，高强度控油的同时兼具爽滑滋润感以及抑菌消炎的功效。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种含有抗炎控油功能组合物的化妆品及其制备方法，解决现有技术中存在的问题。
本申请提供了一种具有良好抗炎控油功能组合物及化妆品，该化妆品创造性的利用功能性粉体。解决了皮肤分泌油脂对妆容暗沉以及妆容持久性的影响，提高后续粉体产品的抗迁移性，定向吸收絮凝固化皮脂，该功能性粉体在妆前乳产品中避免使用钛粉，起到的遮盖提亮效果的同时兼具抗炎杀菌的功效。
本申请通过以下技术方案得以实现：
一种含有抗炎控油功能组合物的化妆品，由以下重量份数的组分组成：抗炎控油功能组合物1-8份、成膜剂1-7份、非离子表面活性剂2-10份、水相增稠剂0.1-1.5份、油相增稠剂0.3-4.5份、液态油分2-20份、保湿剂8-25份，余量为去离子水，共计100份；所述抗炎控油功能组合物为炉甘石、氧化锌、羟基磷灰石的混合物，其重量比为炉甘石:羟基磷灰石:氧化锌等于(65-85):(10-20):(5-15)。
作为优选，所述抗炎控油功能组合物为炉甘石、氧化锌、羟基磷灰石的混合物，其重量比为炉甘石:羟基磷灰石:氧化锌等于(70-80):(15-20):(5-10)份。
作为优选，含有抗炎控油功能组合物的化妆品由以下重量份数的组分组成：抗炎控油功能组合物5-7份、成膜剂2-5份、非离子表面活性剂3-8份、水相增稠剂0.2-1份、油相增稠剂0.5-4、液态油分5-15份、保湿剂10-20份，余量为去离子水，共计100份。
在某些具体实施方法中：
成膜剂选自三十烷基PVP、VP/二十碳烯共聚物、三甲基硅烷氧基硅酸酯、丙烯酸(酯)类/辛基丙烯酰胺共聚物、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物丙烯酸(酯)类/C12～22烷醇甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物、丙烯酸(酯)类/聚三甲基硅氧烷甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物、C30～45烷醇二甲基甲硅烷聚丙基硅倍半氧烷、三氟丙基二甲基/三甲基硅氧基硅酸酯、聚氨酯-34、聚酯-5等中的一种或几种。
非离子表面活性剂选自聚乙二醇脂肪酸酯、聚氧乙烯脂肪酸甘油酯、甘油硬脂酸酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇、PEG-100硬脂酸酯、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷、聚氧乙烯烷基醚、聚氧乙烯山梨醇脂肪酸酯、烷基葡糖苷、三油烯基磷酸、蔗糖脂肪酸酯、PEG-40硬脂酸酯、聚山梨醇酯60、山梨醇聚醚-20、烷醇酰胺、聚氧乙烯-聚氧丙烯嵌段共聚物等中的一种或几种。
水相增稠剂选自丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、丙烯酸钠/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物、聚丙烯酸钠接枝淀粉、卡波姆、丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/VP共聚物、丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物中的一种或几种。
油相增稠剂选自环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、PEG-10聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、聚二甲基硅氧烷PEG-10/15交联聚合物、乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚甲基硅氧烷硅倍半氧烷交联聚合物中的一种或几种。
液态油分选自液体石蜡、角鲨烷、角鲨烯、石蜡、异构石蜡、地蜡、异十六烷、异十二烷等烃油。季戊四醇四(乙基己酸)酯、鲸蜡醇乙基己酸酯、荷荷巴油、月桂酰谷氨酸二(植物甾醇/辛基十二烷醇)酯、三异硬脂酸甘油酯、二异硬脂酸甘油酯、甘油三(乙基己酸)酯、棕榈酸异丙酯、棕榈酸乙基己酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、癸二酸二异丙酯、新戊酸异癸酯等酯类油。二甲基聚硅氧烷、甲基苯基聚硅氧烷、甲基聚三甲基硅氧烷、甲基氢聚硅氧烷等链状有机硅；八甲基环四硅氧烷、十二甲基环六硅氧烷等环状有机硅等硅油。
保湿剂选自丁二醇、1,3-丙二醇、1,2-戊二醇、1,2-丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、丙三醇、甜菜碱、山梨醇、吡咯烷酮羧酸钠、透明质酸、神经酰胺、甘油、海藻糖、甲基丙二醇、乳酸、乳酸钠、甘油葡糖苷等。
本发明还提供了一种具有抗炎控油功能化妆品的制备方法，包括如下步骤：
1)将氧化锌、炉甘石、羟基磷灰石的混合物以4000-8000RPM/min分散均匀，确保氧化锌和羟基磷灰石均匀的附着在炉甘石上；
2)将保湿剂、水相增稠剂、去离子水加热至70-80℃，恒温，以4000-5000RPM/min的转速进行均质，分散均匀后形成水相；
3)将液态油分、成膜剂、非离子表面活性剂、油相增稠剂分散完全形成油相，恒温至70℃，将油相加入水相，6000RPM/min的转速均质8-10分钟；混合均匀加入抗炎控油功能组合物继续用均质机混合均匀；
4)冷却之后添加香精，在25℃-35℃下进行罐装即可。
与现有技术相比，本申请可以获得包括以下技术效果：
本发明通过炉甘石、氧化锌、羟基磷灰石相互配合，使其能够定向吸附皮肤油脂，减轻化妆品油腻感，减少后续底妆产品的色粉迁移，增加保湿滋润感，达到快速上妆以及长久持妆的效果，解决市场上相关控油粉体吸附选择性弱、不具有固化作用、效果单一的问题。此外这种具有抗炎控油功能组合物能够抑菌消炎，增强皮肤屏障且能减少后续底妆中钛粉对皮肤的负担，达到抑菌抗敏的功能。
具体实施方式
以下将通过实施例来详细说明本申请的实施方式，借此对本申请如何应用技术手段来解决技术问题并达成技术功效的实现过程能充分理解并据以实施。
本申请中所用原料、设备，若无特别说明，均为本领域的常用原料、设备，均来自市售产品。本申请中所用方法，若无特别说明，均为本领域的常规方法。
在该具体实施方式中，上述具有抗炎控油功能化妆品的制备方法如下所示：
1)将氧化锌、炉甘石羟基磷灰石的混合物以4000-8000RPM/min分散均匀，确保氧化锌和羟基磷灰石均匀的附着在炉甘石上；
2)将保湿剂、水相增稠剂、去离子水加热至70-80℃，恒温，以4000-5000RPM/min的转速进行均质，分散均匀后形成水相；
3)将液态油分、成膜剂、非离子表面活性剂、油相增稠剂分散完全形成油相，恒温至70℃，将油相加入水相，6000RPM/min的转速均质8-10分钟；混合均匀加入抗炎控油功能组合物继续用均质机混合均匀；
4)冷却之后添加香精，在25℃-35℃下进行罐装即可。
依据上述制备方法及表1的配方制备含有抗炎控油功能组合物的化妆品，分别为实施例1-5及对比例1-3。其中抗炎控油功能组合物按表2中所列比例混合。
表1
表2：
| 炉甘石 | 羟基磷灰石 | 氧化锌 | |
| 实施例1 | 65 | 10 | 5 |
| 实施例2 | 70 | 15 | 5 |
| 实施例3 | 75 | 18 | 7 |
| 实施例4 | 80 | 20 | 10 |
| 实施例5 | 85 | 20 | 15 |
| 对比例1 | 100 | 0 | 0 |
| 对比例2 | 0 | 100 | 0 |
| 对比例3 | 0 | 0 | 100 |
此外，依据上述制备方法，及表3与表4配方制备实施例6-10及对比例4-7。
表3
表4
实验例1：控油效果模拟测试
测试样品：实施例1-10及对比例1-7
测试方法：分别称取相同分数的上述实施例1-10及对比例1-7的化妆品均匀涂于直径为60mm的玻璃培养皿中，放入30℃的恒温箱静置48h，再在室温放置30min；然后用40μL油酸滴在培养皿中间位置，放置30min观察油酸的扩散面积，并测量油斑直径。每个样品做三组取平均值油斑直径越小，表明产品的控油能力越强。
测试结果：
表5
由实施例1-5与对比例1-3的结果可得出，在用量相同的情况下，含有抗炎控油组合物的化妆品相对于只含有一种粉体的化妆品絮凝和固化油酸混合物的效果更好。实施3中炉甘石75份，羟基磷灰石18份，氧化锌7份时控油效果较好。
进一步的，由实施例3抗炎控油功能组合的的含量配比制取实施例6-10，通过实施例6-10与对比例4-7的结果可得出含有抗炎控油组合物的化妆品相对于含有普通粉体的化妆品絮凝和固化油酸混合物的效果更好。且控油效果的强弱与抗炎控油功能组合物的含量有关，实施例8-10油斑直径减小变缓。
实验例2：持妆效果模拟测试
测试样品：实施例3，实施例8-10以及对比例4-7
测试仪器：C-Cube(PIXIENCE，France)，CM2500D Spectrometer(KM,Japan)
测试方法：1.在前臂内侧2*2cm区域涂抹10μl样品，待充分吸收后涂抹8μl市售普通粉底液；2.在受试区域放置一片滤纸，按压5次，揭下。分析滤纸的L值，L值越大，产品脱落越少，服帖性越好。
测试结果：
表6
| 试验样品 | 滤纸(L)值 |
| 实施例3 | 95.35 |
| 实施例8 | 96.06 |
| 实施例9 | 95.25 |
| 实施例10 | 94.25 |
| 对比例4 | 91.11 |
| 对比例5 | 92.13 |
| 对比例6 | 91.89 |
| 对比例7 | 90.75 |
由表6的结果可知涂抹实施例样品的市售普通粉底液的服帖效果高于涂抹对比例样品的市售普通粉底液粉底液的服帖效果。通过涂抹实施例样品的市售普通粉底液的服帖效果的比较，涂抹实施例10的市售普通粉底液的服帖效果相对较差。
实验例3：抗炎效果检测
测试样品：实施例3，实施例8-9及对比例3-5
测试方法：对35名志愿者的皮肤经皮失水值TEWL采用德国CK公司的TewameterTM210测量，皮肤发红情况采用日本美能达公司的Chromameter CR300测量，TEWL值越小说明皮肤的屏障功能越好，发红值越小说明炎症改善情况越好。使用2％十二烷基硫酸钠(SDS)，使用芬兰小室，封闭测试24小时，引发皮肤出现过敏反应，24小时后擦去多余的溶液，经自来水冲洗后用柔软的纸温和擦干。记录6小时后皮肤的TWEL值和发红值，将志愿者分为7组，每组5人测试初始志愿者TWEL值和发红值的平均值a*。测试之后，涂抹本发明产品，在接下的3天中每天两次涂抹，每天记录一次皮肤的TWEL值和发红值，求5个人的平均值。
测试结果如表7所示。
表7
从上表结果可以看出，实施例的TWEL值与发红值均明显低于对比例，说明含抗炎控油功能组合物的化妆品的抗炎保湿效果优于含普通粉体的化妆品。
实验例4：感官分析评估
由化妆品评价专家小组进行的皮肤上单次使用测试中，对实施例的持久性、贴肤性、保湿度、提亮度以及控油效果进行评价，评价以打分的方式(0-5分)，分数越高代表效果越好。评价在以下尺度上进行：1分非常不满意，2分较不满意，3分一般，4分较满意，5分非常满意。
测试结果如表8所示。
表8
| 实验样品 | 持久性 | 贴肤性 | 保湿度 | 提亮度 | 控油效果 |
| 实施例1 | 4 | 4 | 5 | 5 | 4 |
| 实施例2 | 5 | 4 | 5 | 4 | 4 |
| 实施例3 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 |
| 实施例4 | 5 | 5 | 4 | 5 | 5 |
| 实施例5 | 4 | 5 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
| 实施例6 | 4 | 5 | 5 | 4 | 4 |
| 实施例7 | 4 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 4 |
| 实施例8 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 |
| 实施例9 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 |
| 实施例10 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 5 | 5 |
| 对比例1 | 3 | 3 | 5 | 5 | 3 |
| 对比例2 | 4 | 4 | 2 | 3 | 4 |
| 对比例3 | 4 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 3 |
| 对比例4 | 4 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 4 |
| 对比例5 | 4 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 3 |
| 对比例6 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 3 |
| 对比例7 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 4 | 4 |
从上表的结果可以看出，实施例的肤感优于对比例肤感，通过抗炎控油功能组合物的合理配比下相互作用，提高皮肤舒适感，保持自然持久的妆效。
本申请说明书中未作详细描述的内容属于本领域技术人员的公知常识。
如在通篇说明书及权利要求当中所提及的“包含”为一开放式用语，故应解释成“包含但不限定于”。“大致”是指在可接收的误差范围内，本领域技术人员能够在一定误差范围内解决所述技术问题，基本达到所述技术效果。
还需要说明的是，术语“包括”、“包含”或者其任何其他变体意在涵盖非排他性的包含，从而使得包括一系列要素的商品或者系统不仅包括那些要素，而且还包括没有明确列出的其他要素，或者是还包括为这种商品或者系统所固有的要素。在没有更多限制的情况下，由语句“包括一个……”限定的要素，并不排除在包括所述要素的商品或者系统中还存在另外的相同要素。
上述说明示出并描述了本申请的若干优选实施例，但如前所述，应当理解本申请并非局限于本文所披露的形式，不应看作是对其他实施例的排除，而可用于各种其他组合、修改和环境，并能够在本文所述发明构想范围内，通过上述教导或相关领域的技术或知识进行改动。而本领域人员所进行的改动和变化不脱离本申请的精神和范围，则都应在本申请所附权利要求的保护范围内。
Claims (9)
1.一种含有抗炎控油功能组合物的化妆品，其特征在于，由以下重量份数的组分组成：抗炎控油功能组合物1-8份、成膜剂1-7份、非离子表面活性剂2-10份、水相增稠剂0.1-1.5份、油相增稠剂0.3-4.5、液态油分2-20份、保湿剂8-25份，余量为去离子水，共计100份；所述抗炎控油功能组合物为炉甘石、氧化锌、羟基磷灰石的混合物，其重量比为炉甘石:羟基磷灰石:氧化锌等于(65-85):(10-20):(5-15)。
2.如权利要求1所述含有抗炎控油功能组合物的化妆品，其特征在于，所述抗炎控油功能组合物为炉甘石、氧化锌、羟基磷灰石的混合物，其重量比为炉甘石:羟基磷灰石:氧化锌等于(70-80):(15-20):(5-10)。
3.如权利要求2所述的含有抗炎控油功能组合物的化妆品，其特征在于，由以下重量份数的组分组成：抗炎控油功能组合物5-7份、成膜剂2-5份、非离子表面活性剂3-8份、水相增稠剂0.2-1份、油相增稠剂0.5-4份、液态油分5-15份、保湿剂10-20份，余量为去离子水，共计100份。
4.如权利要求1所述的含有抗炎控油功能组合物的化妆品，其特征在于：所述成膜剂选自三十烷基PVP、VP/二十碳烯共聚物、三甲基硅烷氧基硅酸酯、丙烯酸(酯)类/辛基丙烯酰胺共聚物、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物丙烯酸(酯)类/C12～22烷醇甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物、丙烯酸(酯)类/聚三甲基硅氧烷甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物、C30～45烷醇二甲基甲硅烷聚丙基硅倍半氧烷、三氟丙基二甲基/三甲基硅氧基硅酸酯、聚氨酯-34、聚酯-5等中的一种或几种。
5.如权利要求1所述的含有抗炎控油功能组合物的化妆品，其特征在于：所述非离子表面活性剂选自聚乙二醇脂肪酸酯、聚氧乙烯脂肪酸甘油酯、甘油硬脂酸酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇、PEG-100硬脂酸酯、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷、聚氧乙烯烷基醚、聚氧乙烯山梨醇脂肪酸酯、烷基葡糖苷、三油烯基磷酸、蔗糖脂肪酸酯、PEG-40硬脂酸酯、聚山梨醇酯60、山梨醇聚醚-20、烷醇酰胺、聚氧乙烯-聚氧丙烯嵌段共聚物等中的一种或几种。
6.如权利要求1所述的含有抗炎控油功能组合物的化妆品，其特征在于：所述水相增稠剂选自丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、丙烯酸钠/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物、聚丙烯酸钠接枝淀粉、卡波姆、丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/VP共聚物、丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物中的一种或几种；
所诉油相增稠剂选自环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、PEG-10聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物、聚二甲基硅氧烷PEG-10/15交联聚合物、乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚甲基硅氧烷硅倍半氧烷交联聚合物中的一种或几种。
7.如权利要求1所述的含有抗炎控油功能组合物的化妆品，其特征在于：所述液态油分选自液体石蜡、角鲨烷、角鲨烯、石蜡、异构石蜡、地蜡、异十六烷、异十二烷等烃油；季戊四醇四(乙基己酸)酯、鲸蜡醇乙基己酸酯、荷荷巴油、月桂酰谷氨酸二(植物甾醇/辛基十二烷醇)酯、三异硬脂酸甘油酯、二异硬脂酸甘油酯、甘油三(乙基己酸)酯、棕榈酸异丙酯、棕榈酸乙基己酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、癸二酸二异丙酯、新戊酸异癸酯等酯类油；二甲基聚硅氧烷、甲基苯基聚硅氧烷、甲基聚三甲基硅氧烷、甲基氢聚硅氧烷等链状有机硅；八甲基环四硅氧烷、十二甲基环六硅氧烷等环状有机硅等硅油。
8.如权利要求1所述的含有抗炎控油功能组合物的化妆品，其特征在于：所述保湿剂选自丁二醇、1,3-丙二醇、1,2-戊二醇、1,2-丙二醇、1,3-丁二醇、丙三醇、甜菜碱、山梨醇、吡咯烷酮羧酸钠、透明质酸、神经酰胺、甘油、海藻糖、甲基丙二醇、乳酸、乳酸钠、甘油葡糖苷等。
9.一种如权利要求1所述的化妆品的制备方法，其特征在于，包括如下步骤：
1)将氧化锌、炉甘石、羟基磷灰石的混合物以4000-8000RPM/min分散均匀；确保氧化锌和羟基磷灰石均匀的附着在炉甘石上；
2)将保湿剂、水相增稠剂、去离子水加热至70-80℃，恒温，以4000-5000RPM/min的转速进行均质，分散均匀后形成水相；
3)将液态油分、成膜剂、非离子表面活性剂、油相增稠剂分散完全形成油相，恒温至70℃，将油相加入水相，以6000RPM/min的转速均质8-10分钟；混合均匀加入抗炎控油功能组合物继续用均质机混合均匀；
4)冷却之后添加香精，在25℃-35℃下进行罐装即可。
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