CN113106617A - Warp-knitted jacquard mesh with visible and invisible threads and manufacturing method and application thereof - Google Patents

Warp-knitted jacquard mesh with visible and invisible threads and manufacturing method and application thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN113106617A
CN113106617A CN202110285799.3A CN202110285799A CN113106617A CN 113106617 A CN113106617 A CN 113106617A CN 202110285799 A CN202110285799 A CN 202110285799A CN 113106617 A CN113106617 A CN 113106617A
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jacquard
comb
warp
layer
ground
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CN113106617B (en
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许金升
张英东
张高
刘恋
许冰冰
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Sincetech Fujian Technology Co Ltd
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Sincetech Fujian Technology Co Ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/06Patterned fabrics or articles
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/10Open-work fabrics

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  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of weaving and warp knitting, in particular to a warp knitting visible and invisible thread jacquard mesh and a manufacturing method and application thereof. The jacquard mesh is woven by a single-needle bed high-speed machine provided with a jacquard comb or a jacquard card jacquard comb, and comprises a basic tissue layer woven by a ground comb and a jacquard layer woven by the jacquard comb or the jacquard card jacquard comb; the jacquard layer comprises a revealing jacquard layer and a hidden jacquard layer, wherein the extending lines of the local jacquard combs are covered by the extending lines of the adjacent combs to form the hidden jacquard layer, or the extending lines of the local jacquard combs cover the extending lines of the adjacent combs to form the revealing jacquard layer. It can be used as textile footwear, such as shoe uppers and the like. The jacquard weaving process has the advantages that the local stitch cross-stitch characteristic of the ground comb and the jacquard comb or the jacquard comb is utilized, the jacquard layer is designed to have a special jacquard effect that local patterns are hidden or appeared, and the jacquard weaving process is integrated with weaving, good in traffic retention, comfortable, attractive and environment-friendly in process.

Description

Warp-knitted jacquard mesh with visible and invisible threads and manufacturing method and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of weaving and warp knitting, in particular to a warp knitting visible and invisible thread jacquard mesh and a manufacturing method and application thereof.
Background
Most warp-knitted single-layer mesh fabrics knitted by the existing single-needle bed high-speed warp knitting machine are common warp-knitted mesh fabrics, and the pattern effect is realized by post-processing, such as computer embroidery, transfer printing, printing and other modes, so that the pattern effect of showing hidden lines on the warp-knitted single-layer mesh fabrics is realized. Computerized embroidery refers to a process of preparing patterns through digitalization and other treatments, guiding or exciting various motions required by the design of an embroidery machine and an embroidery frame, the operation process is complex, a drawing is firstly established, and then a series of complex processes such as scanning, plate making, wiring, trial making, confirmation, opening, trial embroidery, first piece, mass production and the like are carried out, so that the production cost is greatly increased; the transfer printing or printing means that the pigment or the coating is coated on the surface of the fabric in the form of heat transfer or direct spraying, a scraper and the like, and the subsequent processes such as baking, washing and the like are also needed, so that the patterns are crossed durably, the process is complicated, and the environment is not protected. At present, a mesh fabric with a visible and invisible line jacquard effect which is integrally woven is urgently needed to be developed.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the technical problem, the jacquard mesh cloth with the line-showing jacquard layer and the line-hiding jacquard layer is obtained by knitting with a single-needle-bed high-speed warp knitting machine provided with a jacquard comb or a jacquard comb, and combining the threading process of a ground comb and the jacquard comb or the jacquard comb with the needle-crossing characteristics of the knitting process, so that the extension line of a local jacquard comb can cover the extension line of an adjacent comb or be covered by the extension line of the adjacent comb.
As a first aspect of the present invention, a warp knitted concealed thread jacquard fabric is knitted by a single needle bed high speed machine equipped with a jacquard comb or jacquard comb, and includes a ground comb knitted base fabric layer and a jacquard layer knitted by the jacquard comb or jacquard comb;
the jacquard layer comprises a revealing jacquard layer and a hidden jacquard layer, wherein the extending lines of the local jacquard combs are covered by the extending lines of the adjacent combs to form the hidden jacquard layer, or the extending lines of the local jacquard combs cover the extending lines of the adjacent combs to form the revealing jacquard layer.
Preferably, the warp-knitted concealed wire jacquard mesh is a warp-knitted loop-type concealed wire jacquard mesh, the jacquard layer is knitted by a jacquard comb, the basic tissue layer is a ground comb tissue knitted by a ground comb, the jacquard comb is positioned on the ground tissue to carry out jacquard design, the cross-needle distance of the partial jacquard comb extension wire is equal to or larger than the adjacent comb extension wire, and the cross-needle direction is the same, so that the extension wire of the ground comb will cover the extension wire of the jacquard comb to obtain the concealed wire jacquard layer.
Preferably, the warp-knitted concealed wire jacquard mesh is a warp-knitted weft-insertion concealed wire jacquard mesh, the jacquard layer is formed by jacquard comb knitting, the basic structure of the warp-knitted concealed wire jacquard mesh is a ground comb structure formed by ground comb knitting, the jacquard comb is positioned between the ground comb structures for jacquard design, the span distance of a local jacquard comb extension line and the span distance of an adjacent comb (a next layer of adjacent comb) extension line are the same, the span direction of the local jacquard comb extension line and the adjacent comb extension line are the same, and the extension line of the jacquard comb covers the extension line of the ground comb to obtain the exposed wire jacquard layer.
Preferably, the warp-knitted concealed thread jacquard mesh is warp-knitted jacquard mesh, the jacquard layer is knitted by jacquard combs, the basic structure of the warp-knitted concealed thread jacquard mesh is ground comb structures knitted by ground combs, the jacquard combs are positioned between the ground comb structures for jacquard design, meanwhile, the span length of the extension line of the local jacquard comb is the same as the span length of the extension line of the adjacent ground comb (the next adjacent comb) and the span direction of the extension line of the local jacquard comb is the same, and the extension line of the jacquard comb floats on the ground comb extension line to obtain the revealed thread jacquard layer.
Preferably, the jacquard comb is two or four half-machine jacquard.
Preferably, the weave structure of the ground comb adjacent to the jacquard comb includes any one or more of a warp flat structure, a warp pile structure, a warp bias structure and a warp knit structure.
Preferably, the weave of the ground comb adjacent to the jacquard comb includes any one or more of a warp plain weave, a warp pile weave, a warp twill weave, and a warp knit weave.
As a second aspect of the present invention, a method for manufacturing a warp knitted jacquard fabric with visible and invisible threads comprises: the jacquard comb or the jacquard card jacquard comb is used for weaving a jacquard layer, a ground comb of the jacquard comb or the jacquard card jacquard comb is used for weaving a basic tissue, a local jacquard comb extension line is larger than or equal to the needle span distance of a ground comb extension line adjacent to the jacquard comb, the needle span direction is the same, the extension line of the jacquard comb covers the extension line of the ground comb to form a jacquard layer yarn-showing jacquard layer, or is hidden below the extension line of the ground comb to form a jacquard layer yarn-hiding jacquard layer.
Preferably, the warp-knitted concealed wire jacquard mesh is a warp-knitted loop-type concealed wire jacquard mesh, and the knitting steps are as follows:
two ground combs knit the base tissue layer, with ground comb GB1 warp knitting the base tissue 1-2/1-0//; the ground comb GB2 runs through the warp knitting basic structure 1-0/3-4//;
weaving jacquard layers by two jacquard combs, wherein the jacquard comb GB3 is warp-knitted basic tissues 4-3/3-4/7-6/6-7/4-3/3-4/1-0/3-4/4-3/3-4/4-3/3-4///by passing 1 through 7 empty weaving modes, and the jacquard comb GB4 is warp-knitted basic tissues 1-0/3-4/4-3/3-4/4-3/3-4/4-3/3-4/7-6/6-7/4-3/3-4///by passing 1 through 7 empty weaving modes;
the local oblique warp stitches 3-4/7-6 of jacquard combs GB3 and GB 4/the basic stitches 1-0/3-4// the extension threads of adjacent comb GB2 are all 3 in needle crossing distance and the same in needle crossing direction, and the extension threads of the ground comb GB2 cover the extension threads of the jacquard combs GB3 and GB4 to form a hidden thread jacquard layer.
Preferably, the warp-knitted concealed thread jacquard mesh is a warp-knitted weft insertion type concealed thread jacquard mesh, and the knitting steps are as follows:
two ground combs knit the base tissue layer, with ground comb GB1 warp knitting the base tissue 1-2/1-0//; the ground comb GB3 runs through the warp knitting basic structure 1-0/3-4//;
a jacquard comb is used for weaving a jacquard layer, wherein the jacquard comb GB2 runs through warp knitting weft insertion basic weave 1-0/4-4/1-0/1-1//;
the spread lines of the partial pad lacking tissues 1-0/4-4 of the jacquard comb GB2 and the partial oblique tissues 1-0/3-4// of the ground combs GB1 and GB3 are all 3 in needle crossing distance and in needle crossing direction, and the spread lines of the jacquard comb GB2 cover the spread lines of the ground comb GB3 to form a pattern layer reaching the yarn display.
Preferably, the warp-knitted concealed thread jacquard mesh is a warp-knitted jacquard concealed thread jacquard mesh, and the knitting steps are as follows:
two ground combs knit the base tissue layer, with ground comb GB1 warp knitting the base tissue 1-2/1-0//; the ground comb GB4 runs through the warp knitting basic structure 1-0/3-4//;
two half-machine number jacquard weaving jacquard layers, wherein a half-machine number jacquard JK1-1 passes through a jacquard basic structure 1-0/2-2//; half machine number jaca JK1-2 walks jaca basic pattern 1-0/2-2//, with a 1-pass 1-empty threading;
the partial structures of half-machine numbers of jacquard JK1-1 and JK1-2 are all 1 in cross-stitch distance and in the same cross-stitch direction of the extension lines of the adjacent comb GB4, and the extension lines of the half-machine numbers of jacquard JK1-1 and JK1-2 are covered on the extension lines of the ground comb GB4 to form a line-showing jacquard layer.
As a third aspect of the present invention, the applications of the card warp knitting hidden line jacquard fabric described above are: the jacquard mesh is applied to the shoe upper.
Has the advantages that:
compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
1, local tissue needle-crossing characteristics of a ground comb and a jacquard comb/jacquard comb are utilized, a jacquard layer is designed to have a special jacquard effect that local patterns are hidden or appeared, the jacquard layer is integrally woven, the traffic-keeping performance is good, and compared with common screen cloth, the fabric has the advantages of comfort, soft hand feeling, wear resistance and the like;
2 in the manufacturing process, the unique jacquard effect design of the whole fabric breaks through the visible and invisible line jacquard effect which can only be achieved by post-processing such as electric embroidery, transfer printing, printing and the like in the prior market, does not need post-process processing, breaks through process limitation, is a novel mesh design method, accords with the concept that the environment protection is close to nature which is provided by the market at present, saves cost, improves efficiency, more accords with fashion trend, and is an important breakthrough and innovation of warp-knitted mesh type.
The invention solves the process limitation that the pattern design of the hidden line jacquard process of loop-forming texture can not be reasonably applied in the traditional process in the market, and when the local pad yarn texture chain block of the jacquard comb and the local basic pad yarn texture chain block of the adjacent comb cross the needle in the same direction and the distance between the extended lines is the same or larger than that of the adjacent comb, the extended lines of the ground comb cover the extension of the jacquard comb to achieve the hidden line effect to design the hidden line jacquard product, and conversely, the exposed line jacquard product can be designed to achieve the exposed line effect.
The invention 4 solves the process limitation that the traditional process in the market can not reasonably use the weft insertion/pad lacking organization showing/hidden line jacquard process to design patterns, and designs the visible line jacquard product by utilizing the fact that when the local weft insertion organization chain block of the jacquard comb and the local basic pad yarn organization chain block of the next layer of adjacent comb cross the needle in the same direction and the distance of the extended line to the needle is the same, the extended line of the jacquard comb can freely float on the extended line of the ground comb to achieve the visible line effect, otherwise, the hidden line effect can be designed to achieve to design the hidden line jacquard product.
5 the invention not only can use the line showing process or the line hiding process independently, but also can be applied to the same screen cloth simultaneously, thereby greatly enriching the jacquard effect, having stable structure and durability and being a novel multifunctional single-side screen cloth.
The jacquard comb and the ground comb are not limited by the color of the yarn material, namely hidden line/revealed line jacquard products can be designed as long as the hidden line/revealed line jacquard conditions are met, the pattern shapes can be randomly set without being limited by the process, and the patterns are rich.
7, the process can be operated on a common warp knitting machine and a jacquard machine, and the pattern is better, novel and rich according to the design requirement; the single-face single jacquard, the single-face double jacquard and the like can be combined with the process to design more novel patterns, and the structure is stable and durable.
8 the process can also be applied to double jacquard curlers with the jacquard combs, and the jacquard combs can further enrich the diversity of jacquard effects, and are stable and durable in structure.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic illustration of weaving according to example 1 of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic illustration of weaving according to embodiment 2 of the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a diagram showing weaving effects according to embodiments 1 to 3 of the present invention, wherein FIG. 3A is a diagram showing effects of embodiment 1; FIG. 3B is a graph showing the effects of embodiment 2; fig. 3C is a knitting effect diagram of embodiment 3.
Detailed Description
The invention will be further explained with reference to the following examples and the accompanying drawings.
Example 1
A common warp knitting loop-forming type exposed and hidden line jacquard mesh cloth:
the warp-knitted apparent-hidden line jacquard mesh is a common warp-knitted loop-type apparent-hidden line jacquard mesh woven by a single-needle bed high-speed machine with a jacquard comb, and comprises a basic tissue layer woven by a ground comb and a jacquard layer woven by the jacquard comb;
the jacquard layer comprises a thread-showing jacquard layer and a thread-hiding jacquard layer, wherein the extension lines of partial jacquard combs are covered by the extension lines of adjacent combs to form the thread-hiding jacquard layer, and the rest jacquard layers are thread-showing jacquard layers, and the weaving effect of the thread-showing jacquard layer is shown in figure 3A.
As shown in fig. 1, the method for manufacturing the jacquard mesh fabric of this embodiment is as follows:
knitting the base knit layer using two ground combs wherein:
ground comb GB 1: 3 pan heads of P-DTY200D/96F semi-bright white low-elasticity light net yarns are warped, each pan head 476 yarns are threaded fully on a machine, the yarn feeding amount of a gear is 2130 mm/wax gram, GB1 warp knitting basic tissues are 1-2/1-0//, and the content of the P-DTY200D/96F semi-bright white low-elasticity light net accounts for about 36.952%.
Ground comb GB 2: 3 pan heads of P-DTY200D/96F semi-bright white low-elasticity light net yarns are warped, each pan head 476 yarns are threaded on a machine in a full-threading mode, the gear let-off quantity is 3130 mm/wax, GB2 warp knitting basic tissues are 1-0/3-4//, and the content of the P-DTY200D/96F semi-bright white low-elasticity light net accounts for about 54.301%.
Weaving a jacquard layer by using two jacquard combs, wherein:
jacquard comb GB 3: the warping P-DTY200D/72F CD has 3 pan heads of light white low elastic net yarn, 60 yarns of each pan head, the yarn is threaded through a machine table in a mode of threading 1 and 7 spaces, the gear let-off amount is 2000 mm/wax gram, GB3 warp knitting basic organization 4-3/3-4/7-6/6-7/4-3/3-4/1-0/3-4/4-3/3-4/4-3/3-4//, the content of light white low elastic net yarn of P-DTY200D/72F CD is about 4.374%.
Jacquard GB 4: the warping P-DTY200D/72F CD has 3 pan heads of light white low elastic net yarn, 60 yarns of each pan head, the yarn is threaded through a machine table in a mode of threading 1 and 7 spaces, the gear let-off amount is 2000 mm/wax gram, GB4 warp knitting basic organization 1-0/3-4/4-3/3-4/4-3/3-4/4-3/3-4/7-6/6-7/4-3/3-4//, the content of light white low elastic net yarn of P-DTY200D/72F CD is about 4.374%.
In the embodiment, the local tissues of jacquard combs GB3 and GB4 are oblique tissues 3-4/7-6/needle back same-direction traverse needle-crossing number is +3, wherein + represents the same direction, 3 represents traverse needle-crossing 3 needles, the local basic warp oblique tissues 1-0/3-4// needle back traverse needle-crossing number of adjacent combs GB2 is +3, wherein + represents the same direction, 3 represents traverse needle-crossing 3 needles, the local tissues 3-4/7-6 of jacquard comb GB3. GB4/basic tissues 1-0/3-4// of adjacent comb GB2 meet the requirement that the jacquard comb is positioned on the ground tissue for jacquard design, the cross needle distance of the local jacquard comb and the extension lines of the adjacent combs is the same or larger, and the cross needle direction is the same, so the extension lines of the jacquard comb of the ground comb cover the extension lines of the comb to form a hidden line jacquard layer, the rest part is a thread-displaying jacquard layer.
In the embodiment, the hidden line effect of different degrees can be achieved by controlling the size and the direction of the cross needle of the local extension line according to the design requirement, so that the hidden line jacquard layer is formed; when the cross stitch distance of the partial jacquard comb and the extension thread of the adjacent ground comb are the same or larger and the cross needle direction is the same, the thread hiding effect can be best and completely hidden, otherwise, the stitch distance of the partial jacquard comb can be smaller than the cross stitch distance of the extension thread of the adjacent ground comb and the cross needle direction can be utilized, and the extension thread of the jacquard comb can only be partially hidden or hidden to form the thread displaying jacquard layer.
In the embodiment, the weaving structure of the ground comb GB2 can be flat (2 needles are flat), velvet (3 needles are flat), slant (4 needles are flat), (S needles are flat, S is more than or equal to 2), satin and other structures according to design requirements.
Example 2
Plain warp-knitted weft insertion type invisible thread jacquard mesh
The warp-knitted apparent-hidden line jacquard mesh is a common warp-knitted weft insertion type apparent-hidden line jacquard mesh woven by a single-needle bed high-speed machine provided with a jacquard comb, and comprises a basic tissue layer woven by a ground comb and a jacquard layer woven by the jacquard comb;
the jacquard layer comprises a thread-showing jacquard layer and a thread-hiding jacquard layer, wherein the extension lines of the jacquard comb partially cover the extension lines of the adjacent comb of the lower layer to form the thread-showing jacquard layer, and the rest jacquard layers are thread-hiding jacquard layers, and the weaving effect of the jacquard layer is shown in fig. 3B.
As shown in fig. 2, the method for manufacturing the jacquard mesh fabric of this embodiment is as follows:
two ground combs are used to weave the base weave, wherein,
ground comb GB 1: 3 pan heads of P-DTY75D/36F semi-bright white low-elasticity light net yarns are warped, 584 yarns are arranged on each pan head, the yarn is fully threaded on a machine, the gear let-off amount is 1650 mm/wax gram, GB1 warp knitting basic organization is 1-2/1-0//, and the content of the P-DTY75D/36F semi-bright white low-elasticity light net accounts for about 19.060%.
Ground comb GB 3: 3 pan heads of P-DTY150D/36F semi-bright white low-elasticity light net yarns are warped, 584 yarns of each pan head are provided, the yarns are fully threaded on a machine, the gear let-off amount is 2570 mm/wax gram, GB3 warp knitting basic organization is 1-0/3-4//, and the content of the P-DTY150D/36F semi-bright white low-elasticity light net accounts for about 59.376%.
Weaving a jacquard layer using a jacquard comb, wherein:
jacquard comb GB 2: warping N-FDY280D/72F chinlon semi-gloss yarn with 3 pan heads, wherein each pan head has 292 yarns, the yarn is threaded through a machine in a mode of 1 thread and 1 empty, the gear let-off amount is 1000 mm/wax, GB2 warp-pass knitting weft insertion basic organization is 1-0/4-4/1-0/1-1//, and the N-FDY280D/72F chinlon semi-gloss content accounts for about 21.563%.
In this embodiment, a jacquard comb GB2 is arranged between the knitting stitches of ground combs GB1 and GB3, and the local stitch of the jacquard comb GB2 is pad-lacking stitch 1-0/4-4/needle back same-direction traverse needle-crossing number +3, where + indicates the same direction, 3 indicates traverse needle-crossing 3 needles, the needle back traverse needle-crossing number of warp stitches 1-0/3-4// of the ground comb GB3 is +3, where + indicates the same direction, 3 indicates traverse needle-crossing 3 needles, the spread threads are the same in needle-crossing distance and the same in needle-crossing direction, so the spread thread of the jacquard comb GB2 floats freely on the ground comb spread thread to achieve a yarn-showing effect, forming a yarn-showing jacquard layer, and the rest is a hidden-thread jacquard layer.
In the embodiment, the ground combs GB1 and GB3 can be weaved by flat (2 needles are flat), fine hair (3 needles are flat), inclined (4 needles are flat), (S needles are flat, S is more than or equal to 2), satin and the like according to design requirements.
In the embodiment, the partial jacquard comb has the best yarn showing effect when the cross-stitch distance of the extension yarn of the partial jacquard comb and the next layer of the partial jacquard comb are adjacent to each other is the same and the cross-stitch direction is the same, and the partial jacquard comb can freely float on the extension yarn of the ground comb to achieve the yarn showing effect, otherwise, the yarn showing effect is not ideal and can only be partially hidden, and the best yarn showing effect cannot be achieved.
On the contrary, when the needle span of the local jacquard comb is smaller than the needle span of the adjacent ground comb extension line and the needle span direction is the same, the jacquard comb extension line can not freely float on the ground comb extension line and can only be hidden, the line showing effect can not be achieved, but the hidden line effect product can be designed to form the hidden line jacquard layer.
Example 3
Jacquard mesh cloth with warp knitting jacquard display hidden lines
The warp-knitted visible and invisible line jacquard mesh is woven by a single-needle bed high-speed machine provided with a jacquard comb and comprises a basic tissue layer woven by a ground comb and a jacquard layer woven by the jacquard comb;
the jacquard layer comprises a thread-showing jacquard layer and a thread-hiding jacquard layer, wherein the extension lines of the jacquard comb partially cover the extension lines of the adjacent comb of the lower layer to form the thread-showing jacquard layer, and the rest jacquard layers are thread-hiding jacquard layers, and the weaving effect of the jacquard layer is shown in fig. 3C.
The method for manufacturing the jacquard mesh cloth comprises the following steps:
weaving a base tissue layer using two ground combs, wherein:
ground comb GB 1: 6 pan heads of the warping P-FDY100D/48F semi-gloss environment-friendly filament (recycle) yarn, 512 yarns of each pan head, the yarn threading of the yarn on a machine table in a full threading mode, the gear let-off amount of 1840 mm/wax, GB1 warp knitting basic organization 1-2/1-0//, and the content of the P-FDY100D/48F semi-gloss environment-friendly filament (recycle) accounts for about 33.485%.
Ground comb GB 4: 6 pan heads of P-FDY100D/48F semi-light environment-friendly filament (recycle) yarn are warped, 512 yarns are wound on each pan head, the yarn is fully threaded on a machine, the let-off quantity of a gear is 2680 mm/wax, GB4 warp knitting basic organization 1-0/3-4//, and the content of the P-FDY100D/48F semi-light environment-friendly filament (recycle) accounts for about 48.772%.
Weaving a jacquard layer using two half-machine jacquard combs (half-machine jacquard for short), wherein:
half machine number jaka JK 1-1: 6 coils of P-DTY150D/36F semi-white low-elasticity light-weight gauze yarn are warped, 256 yarns are wound on each coil, the yarn is threaded through a machine in a mode of 1 thread and 1 space, the gear let-off amount is 650 mm/wax gram, a half-machine number jacquard JK1-1 walks jacquard basic organization 1-0/2-2//, and the content of the light-white low-elasticity light-weight gauze in the P-DTY150D/48F CD accounts for about 8.872%.
Half machine number jaka JK 1-2: 6 coils of P-DTY150D/36F semi-white low-elasticity light-weight gauze yarn are warped, 256 yarns are wound on each coil, the yarn is threaded through a machine in a mode of 1 thread and 1 space, the gear let-off amount is 650 mm/wax gram, a half-machine number jacquard JK1-2 walks jacquard basic organization 1-0/2-2//, and the content of the light-white low-elasticity light-weight gauze in the P-DTY150D/48F CD accounts for about 8.872%.
In this embodiment, jacquard design is performed using a 2-bar half-size jacquard comb between the ground stitches. The local structures of half-jacquard combs JK1-1 and JK1-2 and the extension lines of a next layer of adjacent comb GB4 have the same cross-stitch pitch and the same cross-stitch direction by utilizing the change of a process stitch, the extension lines of the half-jacquard combs JK1-1 and JK1-2 freely float on the extension lines of the next layer of adjacent comb, the yarn showing effect is achieved, a yarn showing jacquard layer is formed, and the rest parts form a hidden yarn jacquard layer.
In the embodiment, the weaving structure of the ground combs GB1 and GB4 can be flat warp (2-needle warp flat), fine warp (3-needle warp flat), oblique warp (4-needle warp flat), (S-needle warp flat, S is more than or equal to 2), satin warp and other structures according to design requirements.
When the cross stitch distance of the adjacent comb extension lines of the local jacquard comb and the next layer is the same and the cross stitch direction is the same, the optimal yarn display effect can freely float on the ground comb extension lines to achieve the yarn display effect and form the yarn display jacquard layer, and conversely, when the cross stitch distance of the local jacquard comb is smaller than the cross stitch distance of the adjacent comb extension lines of the next layer and the cross stitch direction is the same, the jacquard comb extension lines cannot freely float on the ground comb extension lines and can only be hidden, the yarn display effect cannot be achieved, and the yarn hiding jacquard layer is formed.
In the embodiment, the needle methods of the guide bars, the thread displaying effect, the thread hiding effect, the pattern shapes and the like can be freely switched according to design requirements, the design can be set at will without the limitation of the process, and the patterns are rich.
In the embodiment, the effect can be achieved by a single-side single jacquard process and single-side double jacquard, and the double jacquard pattern effect is more abundant, better, novel and various; which is the same principle as single jacquard.
In this implementation, not only can operate on ordinary warp knitting, also can use on the two merchant card edges of taking the flower comb, have the variety that the jacquard weave effect can be richened to the existence of flower comb, and stable in structure, durable, let the people feel this is multi-functional novel single face screen cloth. As with the single jacquard principle, this is not repeated here.
In the embodiment, the jacquard comb with the jacquard effect can be used as the ground comb to weave the basic tissue, and the pattern effect is richer.
The basic weave of the above embodiment may be 1 or more than 2 bar weaves; the jacquard comb can be more than two to obtain richer visible and invisible line jacquard effects.
The warp knitted concealed thread jacquard mesh fabric in the above embodiments can be used as a vamp.
It should be noted that the basic principles and essential features of the invention and the advantages thereof have been shown and described above, it will be evident to those skilled in the art that the invention is not limited to the details of the foregoing illustrative embodiments, and that the present invention may be embodied in other specific forms without departing from the spirit or essential characteristics thereof. The present embodiments are therefore to be considered in all respects as illustrative and not restrictive, the scope of the invention being indicated by the appended claims rather than by the foregoing description, and all changes which come within the meaning and range of equivalency of the claims are therefore intended to be embraced therein. Any reference sign in a claim should not be construed as limiting the claim concerned.
Furthermore, it should be understood that although the present description refers to embodiments, not every embodiment may contain only a single embodiment, and such description is for clarity only, and those skilled in the art should integrate the description, and the embodiments may be combined as appropriate to form other embodiments understood by those skilled in the art.

Claims (10)

1. The warp-knitted jacquard mesh with the visible and hidden lines is characterized in that: the warp-knitted visible and invisible line jacquard mesh is woven by a single-needle bed high-speed machine provided with a jacquard comb or a jacquard card jacquard comb, and comprises a foundation tissue layer woven by a ground comb and a jacquard layer woven by the jacquard comb or the jacquard card jacquard comb;
the jacquard layer comprises a revealing jacquard layer and a hidden jacquard layer, wherein the extending lines of the local jacquard combs are covered by the extending lines of the adjacent combs to form the hidden jacquard layer, or the extending lines of the local jacquard combs cover the extending lines of the adjacent combs to form the revealing jacquard layer.
2. The warp-knitted concealed wire jacquard fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the warp-knitted concealed wire jacquard mesh is warp-knitted loop-type concealed wire jacquard mesh, the jacquard layer is formed by weaving jacquard combs, the basic tissue layer of the jacquard comb is ground comb tissue formed by weaving ground combs, the jacquard combs are positioned on the ground tissue to carry out jacquard design, the needle span distance of the partial jacquard comb extension lines is equal to or larger than the adjacent comb extension lines, the needle span directions of the partial jacquard comb extension lines are the same, and therefore the extension lines of the ground combs can cover the extension lines of the jacquard combs to obtain the concealed wire jacquard layer.
3. The warp-knitted concealed wire jacquard fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the warp-knitted concealed wire jacquard mesh is warp-knitted weft-insertion concealed wire jacquard mesh, a jacquard layer is formed by jacquard comb knitting, a basic tissue of the jacquard comb is a ground comb tissue formed by ground comb knitting, the jacquard comb is positioned between the ground comb tissues for jacquard design, a local jacquard comb extension line and a lower layer of adjacent comb extension line have the same needle span distance and the same needle span direction, and the extension line of the jacquard comb covers the extension line of the ground comb to obtain the exposed wire jacquard layer.
4. The warp-knitted concealed wire jacquard fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the warp-knitted jacquard mesh with the hidden lines is warp-knitted jacquard mesh with jacquard layers woven by jacquard combs, the basic structure of the warp-knitted jacquard mesh is ground comb structures woven by ground combs, the jacquard combs are positioned between the ground comb structures for jacquard design, meanwhile, the span length of the extension lines of the local jacquard combs is the same as the span needle distance and the span needle direction of the extension lines of the adjacent combs of the next layer, and the extension lines of the jacquard combs float on the ground comb extension lines to obtain the hidden line jacquard layers.
5. The warp-knitted concealed wire jacquard mesh fabric according to claim 4, wherein: the jacquard comb is two or four half jacquard cards.
6. The warp-knitted concealed wire jacquard fabric according to any one of claims 2 or 3, wherein: the weaving tissue of the ground comb adjacent to the jacquard comb comprises any one or more of a warp flat tissue, a warp velvet tissue, a warp oblique tissue and a warp forged tissue.
7. The warp-knitted concealed wire jacquard fabric according to any one of claims 4 or 5, wherein: the knitting structure of the ground comb adjacent to the jacquard comb comprises any one or more of a warp plain structure, a warp velvet structure, a warp oblique structure and a warp forged structure.
8. A method for manufacturing warp-knitted jacquard mesh with visible and invisible threads is characterized by comprising the following steps: the jacquard comb or the jacquard card jacquard comb is used for weaving a jacquard layer, a ground comb of the jacquard comb or the jacquard card jacquard comb is used for weaving a basic structure, the spread line of the local jacquard comb is larger than or equal to the needle span distance of the adjacent ground comb spread line of the jacquard comb, the needle span direction is the same, the spread line of the jacquard comb covers the spread line of the ground comb to form a jacquard layer yarn-showing jacquard layer, or is hidden below the spread line of the ground comb to form a jacquard layer yarn-hiding jacquard layer.
9. The method of making a warp knitted concealed wire jacquard fabric according to claim 8, wherein: the warp knitting apparent and hidden line jacquard mesh is warp knitting loop-type apparent and hidden line jacquard mesh, and the knitting steps are as follows:
two ground combs knit the base tissue layer, with ground comb GB1 warp knitting the base tissue 1-2/1-0//; the ground comb GB2 runs through the warp knitting basic structure 1-0/3-4//;
weaving jacquard layers by two jacquard combs, wherein the jacquard comb GB3 is warp-knitted basic tissues 4-3/3-4/7-6/6-7/4-3/3-4/1-0/3-4/4-3/3-4/4-3/3-4///by passing 1 through 7 empty weaving modes, and the jacquard comb GB4 is warp-knitted basic tissues 1-0/3-4/4-3/3-4/4-3/3-4/4-3/3-4/7-6/6-7/4-3/3-4///by passing 1 through 7 empty weaving modes;
the local oblique warp stitches 3-4/7-6 of jacquard combs GB3 and GB 4/the basic stitches 1-0/3-4// the extension threads of adjacent comb GB2 are all 3 in needle crossing distance and the same in needle crossing direction, and the extension threads of the ground comb GB2 cover the extension threads of the jacquard combs GB3 and GB4 to form a hidden thread jacquard layer.
10. The method of making a warp knitted concealed wire jacquard fabric according to claim 8, wherein: the warp knitting apparent and hidden line jacquard mesh fabric is warp knitting weft insertion type apparent and hidden line jacquard mesh fabric, and the knitting steps are as follows:
two ground combs knit the base tissue layer, with ground comb GB1 warp knitting the base tissue 1-2/1-0//; the ground comb GB3 runs through the warp knitting basic structure 1-0/3-4//;
a jacquard comb is used for weaving a jacquard layer, wherein the jacquard comb GB2 runs through warp knitting weft insertion basic weave 1-0/4-4/1-0/1-1//;
the spread lines of the partial pad lacking tissues 1-0/4-4 of the jacquard comb GB2 and the partial oblique tissues 1-0/3-4// of the ground combs GB1 and GB3 are all 3 in needle crossing distance and in needle crossing direction, and the spread lines of the jacquard comb GB2 cover the spread lines of the ground comb GB3 to form a pattern layer reaching the yarn display.
CN202110285799.3A 2021-03-17 2021-03-17 Warp-knitted jacquard mesh with visible and invisible threads and manufacturing method and application thereof Active CN113106617B (en)

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