CN112402315A - 一种精华液的制备方法及应用 - Google Patents
一种精华液的制备方法及应用 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN112402315A CN112402315A CN202011331310.3A CN202011331310A CN112402315A CN 112402315 A CN112402315 A CN 112402315A CN 202011331310 A CN202011331310 A CN 202011331310A CN 112402315 A CN112402315 A CN 112402315A
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- Prior art keywords
- essence
- skin
- parts
- liposome
- acanthopanax senticosus
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Abstract
本发明涉及日用护肤品加工技术领域,具体涉及一种精华液的制备方法及应用,本发明所述精华液包含重量份配比为(1‑7):(90‑99)的刺五加脂质体和精华液基质。本发明还提供一种含刺五加脂质体的精华液制备方法,由所述方法制备得到的精华液保持了刺五加脂质体的完整性,可以有效发挥刺五加活性成分的作用,既能做到皮肤保湿又能使皮肤抵抗住氧化压力,且成分原料来源安全。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及护肤品领域,具体涉及一种含刺五加脂质体的保湿抗氧化精华液制备方法及其应用。
背景技术
保持年轻态皮肤一直是女性朋友的梦寐以求的事情。然而随着年龄的增长、紫外线的辐射、环境的污染,裸露在空气中的皮肤一而再再而三的受到伤害,渐渐出现缺水、氧化、变黄、皱纹等现象,这时候皮肤需要来自护肤品的外力救援。而化妆品大多数存在效果不明确和出现一定不良反应的问题,人们非常需要具有效果明确、作用途经多样、安全、无不良反应的具有保湿、抗氧化、延缓衰老作用的产品。
紫外照射、生活压力、熬夜通宵、电磁辐射等因素容易导致人体产生大量的自由基。当超过体内自由基清除系统的清除能力时,就到导致体内氧自由基(ROS)大量堆积。ROS作用于表皮细胞,会引起DNA、蛋白质和脂质等的氧化或再氧化损害,破坏细胞结构和功能的完整性,造成表皮细胞氧化应激损伤,导致皮肤的衰老。
我国历来就有以天然植物作为美容护肤品的传统,相对于化学合成物质,天然植物具有功效好、安全无刺激、防止过敏等优点。早在《本草纲目》中记载“宁得一把五加,不用金玉满车”。刺五加在保健身体方面有显著的功效,同时在美容方面更是具有促进面部血液循环、排毒养颜、提高新陈代谢、美容淡斑的作用。目前,刺五加的提取物在植物化妆品类的研究可见不少,而其他部位在护肤品中的应用价值却知之甚少。
发明内容
刺五加根提取物主要来源于刺五加的根部,提取物中主要含有刺五加甙B、刺五加甙E。在化妆品、护肤品里主要作用是抗氧化剂,皮肤调理剂,比较安全,可以放心使用,刺五加根提取物没有致痘性。刺五加含超氧化歧化酵素SOD复合物,SOD具有良好的抗氧化功能,可以增强人体免疫以及抵抗自由基攻击的效果,具有抗氧化作用,可以用于抗衰化妆品。
本发明的第一方面提供一种含刺五加脂质体的精华液。
使用脂质体技术对刺五加活性成分进行有效包裹,使得精华液具有保湿、抗氧化、滋养肌肤的功效,使皮肤展现出来细嫩年轻的状态,含刺五加脂质体的精华液包括刺五加脂质体以及精华液基质。
本发明所述的精华液,刺五加脂质体与精华液基质的重量份配比为(1-7):(90-99)。按照本发明方法所述比例,混合刺五加脂质体与精华液基质后,能够最大程度地减少刺五加脂质体被氧化的损耗率,提高刺五加根提取物的生物利用度,促进皮肤对刺五加活性成分的吸收率,充分发挥刺五加的抗氧化活性及保湿功效。
其中,刺五加脂质体的重量份配比为以下:
刺五加脂质体通过以下方法制备得到:
(1)制备刺五加根提取物,取刺五加药材粗粉,加入10倍量水煎煮3次,2h/次,滤过,合并滤液,5000r/min离心5min,取上清液旋转蒸发浓缩,浓缩液冷冻干燥,制得刺五加提取物冻干粉,即刺五加根提取物;
(2)将刺五加根提取物、大豆磷脂、胆固醇、胆酸钠、乙醇质量份为(10-50):(30-50):(5-10):(50-70):(200-500)称量;将称量好的刺五加根提取物、大豆磷脂和胆固醇置于小烧杯中,混合后加入乙醇、胆酸钠,溶解;再滴加到PBS缓冲液中,使乙醇挥发尽,成为半透明的混悬液即得刺五加脂质体A。
或刺五加脂质体的重量份配比为以下:
(1)制备刺五加根提取物,取刺五加药材粗粉,加入10倍量水煎煮3次,2h/次,滤过,合并滤液,5000r/min离心5min,取上清液旋转蒸发浓缩,浓缩液冷冻干燥,制得刺五加提取物冻干粉,即刺五加根提取物;
(2)将刺五加根提取物、大豆磷脂、胆固醇、乙醇质量份为(10-50):(1-3):(7-10):(200-500)称量;
刺五加脂质体制备步骤:将称量好的刺五加根提取物、大豆磷脂和胆固醇置于小烧杯中,混合后加入乙醇,溶解;再滴加到PBS缓冲液中,使乙醇挥发尽,成为半透明的混悬液即得刺五加脂质体B;
精华液基质的重量份配比为以下:
保湿剂 50-250份
皮肤调理剂 2.5-11份
去离子水 300-1500份。
优选地包括:
保湿剂 100-150份
皮肤调理剂 4.5-10份
去离子水 800-1000份。
所述保湿剂为甘油、甜菜碱、丁二醇、泛醇、生育酚乙酸酯中的至少一种;所述皮肤调理剂为透明质酸钠、尿囊素、银耳多糖中的至少一种。
作为进一步地实施方式,以重量份计,所述保湿剂包括以下组分:甜菜碱1-5份、甘油10-50份、丁二醇10-50份、泛醇10-50份、生育酚乙酸酯10-30份;所述皮肤调理剂为1-5份的透明质酸钠,1-5份的尿囊素,0.5-1份的银耳多糖。
本发明所述的精华液,还含有pH调节剂1-5份、防腐剂1-5份、增稠剂0.1-0.5份。作为本发明的一项具体实施方式,pH调节剂为1-3份的三乙醇胺;防腐剂为3-5重量份的苯氧乙醇、增稠剂为0.2-0.5重量份的卡波姆。
甜菜碱作为天然的吸湿因子,强烈的吸湿性,能为肌肤提供大量水分,令肌肤时刻光滑湿润,是具有生物活性形态的维生素,对于蛋白质的形成,DNA修复,酶的活性是非常重要的,有卓越的渗透压调节作用,稳定性,水溶性和保湿性高。
甘油具有很强的吸湿性,纯净的甘油能吸收40%的水分,所以搽在皮肤上能形成一层薄膜,有隔绝空气和防止水分蒸发的作用,还能吸收空气中的水分。所以,冬季人们常用含甘油的化妆品搽于手和面部等暴露在空气中的皮肤表面,能够使皮肤保持柔软,富有弹性,不受尘埃、气候等损害而干燥,起到防止皮肤冻伤的的作用。
丁二醇在化妆品中作为小分子保湿成份,可将水分留在角质层,有良好的吸湿性,做保湿剂及溶剂,是质地温和的多元醇类,有一定的抑菌作用,清爽,无粘腻感,所以经常被添加在护肤品之中。
泛醇是维生素B5的前体,故又称维生素原B5,它含有不少于99%含量的D-泛醇,添加到化妆品中可防治小皱纹、抗氧化、抗炎、修复屏障增强保湿。
生育酚乙酸酯属于维生素E的衍生物,在化妆品中常做抗氧化剂使用,有很好的抗氧化效果,它是一种油溶性的天然物质,对肌肤是很好的营养滋润剂,在保湿和维持结缔组织,以及保护皮肤不受紫外线伤害都有很好表现,该成分能使肌肤触感柔软并保持肌肤水分,促进伤口愈合、预防发炎防止肌肤粗糙皲裂、改善黑斑,安全风险指数不高使用广泛。
透明质酸钠作为化妆品原料添加到化妆品中,可瞬间深层保湿、增加皮肤弹性与张力,有助恢复肌肤正常油水平衡,改善干燥及松弛皮肤。透明质酸也是肌肤中的一种重要成份,具有表皮组织修复的功能。当皮肤组织暴露在UVB射线下时,皮肤会晒伤、发炎,真皮组织会停止产生透明质酸,同时加快透明质酸的衰退率。透明质酸大量存在于人体的结缔组织及真皮层中,拥有强大的吸水能力和保湿功能,还能增强皮肤长时间的保水能力,能帮助弹力纤维以及胶原蛋白处在充满水分的环境中,让皮肤显的更有弹性。
尿囊素,学名称是5―脲基乙酰尿,在医药上,尿囊素具有刺激组织生长,促进细胞新陈代谢,加快伤口愈合,软化角质层蛋白质等生理功能,是皮肤创伤的良好愈合剂;作为化妆品添加剂,从而赋予化妆品保护皮肤组织亲水吸水保水功能,使皮肤具有弹性和亮丽光泽。
银耳多糖是一种植物源性类透明质酸钠物质,具有高效的保湿性,并且可以提高化妆品的稳定性,降低界面张力。
本发明的第二方面提供上述含刺五加脂质体的精华液制备方法,包括以下步骤:
(1)备料:称量刺五加脂质体、保湿剂、增稠剂、pH调节剂、皮肤调理剂、防腐剂和水;
(2)一次搅拌:在水相锅中加入水、保湿剂和皮肤调理剂,搅拌升温至65℃-80℃,充分搅拌均匀,保温20-30分钟,得到精华液基质;
(3)二次搅拌:将精华液基质降温至45-50℃时,依次加入刺五加脂质体、增稠剂、pH调节剂和防腐剂,充分搅拌均匀,得到二次混合物;
(4)出料:将二次混合物降温至35-40℃,出料、静置,得到半成品;
(5)检验:半成品检验合格之后,灌装、包装、入库,为精华液成品。
本发明还提供上述含刺五加脂质体的精华液在刺五加活性成分保持中的应用;上述的精华液在刺五加活性成分保持和/或皮肤补水保湿和/或延缓皮肤衰老中的应用;上述的精华液在增加皮肤光滑度和弹性中的应用。
本发明的有益效果在于:
1、本发明提供了具有保湿抗氧化延缓衰老功能的刺五加脂质体,所述刺五加脂质体扩展了产品的功能,既能保湿又能抵抗氧化压力和滋养肌肤,同时由于刺五加脂质体为水溶性,所以不受产品剂型的限制,可以添加在水剂、乳液、膏霜、精华等产品中。
2、本发明提供了一种精华液,该精华液中添加了刺五加脂质体,使得精华液具有保湿、抗氧化、延缓衰老的功能,使皮肤展现出来最细嫩年轻的状态。
3、本发明提供了一种精华液的制备方法,通过这种方法,将刺五加脂质体与将精华液的原料分批次加入混合,控制生产的温度,使得到的精华液能更好发挥刺五加有效活性成分,具有效果明确、安全、保湿、抗氧化、延缓衰老的作用。
具体实施方式
以下实施例用于说明本发明,但不用来限制本发明的范围。需要说明的是,在不相冲突的前提下,以下描述的各实施例之间或各技术特征之间可以任意组合形成新的实施例。在下述实施例中所采用的原材料、设备等除特殊限定外均可以通过购买方式获得。
实施例1刺五加脂质体制备
(1)以刺五加根提取物1份、大豆磷脂5份、胆酸钠7份、胆固醇1份、乙醇20份和PBS缓冲液余量,制备刺五加脂质体。
将称量好的刺五加根提取物、大豆磷脂和胆固醇置于小烧杯中,加入乙醇、胆酸钠,超声至溶解,然后滴加到PBS缓冲液中在磁力搅拌器上加热搅拌至乙醇挥发尽,成为半透明的混悬液即得刺五加脂质体,命名为刺五加脂质体A。
(2)以刺五加根提取物1份、大豆磷脂0.5份、胆固醇1份、乙醇20份和PBS缓冲液余量,制备。
将称量好的刺五加根提取物、大豆磷脂和胆固醇置于小烧杯中,加入乙醇、超声至溶解,然后滴加到PBS缓冲液中在磁力搅拌器上加热搅拌至乙醇挥发尽,成为半透明的混悬液即得刺五加脂质体,命名为刺五加脂质体B。
实施例2-4含不同重量份刺五加脂质体的精华液
实施例2-4的精华液的总重量份为100份,各组分的重量份见表1。
实施例2-4的精华液的制备方法如下:
(1)备料:将刺五加脂质体、保湿剂、增稠剂、pH调节剂、皮肤调理剂、防腐剂和水备料,用干净并消毒的器皿盛放;
(2)一次搅拌:在水相锅中加入水、保湿剂和皮肤调理剂,搅拌升温至65℃-80℃,充分搅拌均匀,保温20-30分钟,得到精华液基质:
(3)二次搅拌:将一次混合物降温至45-50℃时,依次加入刺五加脂质体、增稠剂、pH调节剂和防腐剂,充分搅拌均匀,得到二次混合物;
(4)出料:将二次混合物降温至35-40℃,过滤、出料、静置,得到半成品;
(5)检验:将半成品检验合格后,灌装、包装、入库,得到精华液。
表1实施例2-4的精华液各组分的重量份
对比例1-3
对比例1-3的精华液的总重量份为100份,各组分的重量份见表2。采用实施例2-4的精华液制备方法进行制备:
表2对比例1-3的精华液各组分的重量份
对比例4不含刺五加提取物的精华液
精华液的总重量份为100份,各组分的重量份为:水88.95份;甘油3份;尿囊素0.2份;甜菜碱0.5份;丁二醇5份;泛醇1份;生育酚乙酸酯1份;卡波姆0.02份;三乙醇胺0.2份;透明质酸钠0.2份;银耳多糖0.5份;苯氧乙醇0.5份。采用实施例2-4所用的精华液制备方法进行配制。
对比例5市售精华液
随机选取已在市场销售的,具有抗氧化功能的精华液,与实施例2-4的精华液及对比例1-4的精华液,进行精华液清除自由基性能测试、精华液补水性能测试和精华液皮肤弹性和光泽度测试。
精华液清除自由基性能测试
DPPH又称1,1-二苯基-2-三硝基苯腓,是一种很稳定的氮中心的自由基,他的稳定性主要来自共振稳定作用的3个苯环的空间障碍,使夹在中间的氮原子上不成对的电子不能发挥其应有的电子成对作用。它的无水乙醇溶液呈紫色,在517nm波长处有最大吸收,吸光度与浓度呈线性关系。向其中加入自由基清除剂时,可以结合或替代DPPH使自由基数量减少,吸光度变小,溶液颜色变浅,借此可评价清除自由基的能力。即通过在517nm波长处检测样品清除DPPH的效果,来计算抗氧化能力。
在10mL比色管中依次加入4.0mL(0.02mg/ml)DPPH的无水乙醇溶液和2.0mL各样品无水乙醇稀释液(3mg/mL),再加入无水乙醇至刻度,混匀立即用1cm比色皿在517nm波长处测吸光值(A),吸光值记为Ai,再在温室避光保存30min后测吸光值,记为Aj,对照试验为只加DPPH的乙醇溶液,其吸光值记为Ac。按下式计算自由基清除率(K):K(%)=[l·(Ai·Aj)/Ac]*100%,取三次测量平均值,测试结果见表3。
从实验结果可以看出,本发明实施例2-4的精华液对清除自由基能力高,而对比例1-5的清除自由基能力极低。其中,实施例2中采用刺五加脂质体A的精华液清除自由基的能力最强,且仅添加1%的刺五加脂质体A对自由基的清除性能也远高于未添加刺五加脂质体的精华液。
表3不同精华液清除自由基性能
精华液补水性能测试
50位年龄在18-50之间的女性志愿者,在室温25℃,相对湿度50%的室内环境中,分别在额头画一个2平方厘米的固定区域,在固定区域使用实施例2-4、对比例1-5的精华液后,用Corneometer CM285皮肤水份检测仪测试,综合取得皮肤湿度变化数据,测试结果见表4。
实验结果显示,本发明实施例2-4的精华液使用后的湿度值和使用1小时后湿度值均高于对比例1-5;且实施例2-4的精华液补水和保湿效果较仅添加了刺五加根提取物与未添加刺五加成分的精华液基质以及市售普通精华液都更加显著。
表4不同精华液补水性能
精华液皮肤弹性和光泽度测试
实施例2-4及对比例1-5的精华液,每份精华液选取50名年龄介于18-50岁的志愿者试用,随后进行皮肤弹性和皮肤光泽度项目的测试,对比使用前后的皮肤弹性和皮肤光泽度,实验结果见表5。
实验结果显示,对比例1-3的配方中因为没有采取脂质体包裹技术,活性物质经皮吸收减少,且脂质体没能在皮肤表面形成一层保湿膜,皮肤的水分含量和皮肤的弹性与实施例2-4相比有所下降,因不能和其他组分一起协同增效补充皮肤中的小分子营养组分,因此经表皮平均水分流失率也明显增高。
表5不同精华液使用之后的皮肤弹性和光泽度测试
综上所述,本发明的精华液中由于添加了刺五加脂质体,使得精华液具有保湿、抗氧化,使皮肤展现出来的是细嫩年轻状态的而且补水、效果好,长期使用能够延缓衰老。
虽然,上文中已经用一般性说明及具体实施方案对本发明作了详尽的描述,但在本发明基础上,可以对之作一些修改或改进,这对本领域技术人员而言是显而易见的。因此,在不偏离本发明精神的基础上所做的这些修改或改进,均属于本发明要求保护的范围。
Claims (10)
1.一种精华液,其特征在于,含有刺五加脂质体和精华液基质。
2.如权利要求1所述的精华液,其特征在于,其刺五加脂质体与精华液基质的重量份配比为(1-7):(90-99)。
4.如权利要求1所述的精华液,其特征在于,所述精华液基质的重量份配比为以下:
保湿剂 50-250份
皮肤调理剂 0.5-11份
去离子水 300-1500份。
5.如权利要求4所述的精华液,其特征在于,所述保湿剂为甘油、甜菜碱、丁二醇、泛醇、生育酚乙酸酯中的至少一种;优选皮肤调理剂为透明质酸钠、尿囊素、银耳多糖中的至少一种。
6.如权利要求1-5任一所述的精华液,其特征在于,还含有pH调节剂1-5份、防腐剂1-5份、增稠剂0.1-0.5份。
7.一种如权利要求1-6任一所述的精华液的制备方法,其特征在于包括以下步骤:
备料:按比例称量刺五加脂质体、保湿剂、增稠剂、pH调节剂、皮肤调理剂、防腐剂和水;
一次搅拌:在水相锅中加入水、保湿剂和皮肤调理剂,搅拌升温至65℃-80℃,充分搅拌均匀,保温20-30分钟,得到精华液基质;
二次搅拌:将精华液基质降温至45-50℃时,依次加入刺五加脂质体、增稠剂、pH调节剂和防腐剂,充分搅拌均匀。
8.权利要求1-6任一所述的精华液在刺五加活性成分保持和/或皮肤补水保湿和/或延缓皮肤衰老中的应用。
9.权利要求1-6任一所述的精华液在增加皮肤光滑度和弹性中的应用。
10.一种延缓皮肤衰老、抗氧化能力强、保湿性好的护肤品,其特征在于,含有权利要求1-6任一所述的精华液。
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