CN112294707A

CN112294707A - Cream with moisturizing effect and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN112294707A
Application number: CN201910704725.1A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 孟宏; 刘盼玉; 曲召辉; 刘有停
Original assignee: Taihe Kangmei Beijing Research Institute of Traditional Chinese Medicine Co Ltd
Current assignee: Taihe Kangmei Beijing Research Institute of Traditional Chinese Medicine Co Ltd
Priority date: 2019-07-31
Filing date: 2019-07-31
Publication date: 2021-02-02
Anticipated expiration: 2039-07-31
Also published as: CN112294707B

Abstract

The invention relates to a moisturizing cream and a preparation method thereof. The cream provided by the invention is added with the compound humectant, so that the cream has a lasting and efficient moisturizing effect. The composite humectant comprises the following components in percentage by weight: 0.01-5.0 parts of sodium hyaluronate, 0.01-5.0 parts of carrageen crispus, 0.01-5.0 parts of sodium polyglutamate, 0.001-40.0 parts of glycerol, 0.01-2.0 parts of L-serine, 0.00-2.0 parts of L-proline, 0.0-0.3 part of L-glutamic acid, 0.001-15.0 parts of betaine, 0.0-20.0 parts of urea, 0.001-15.0 parts of sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, 0.0-10.0 parts of trehalose, 0.0-1.0 part of preservative, 0.001-0.5 part of allantoin and 0.001-5.0 part of pH regulator.

Description

Cream with moisturizing effect and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the field of skin care products, and particularly relates to a cream with a moisturizing effect and a preparation method thereof.

Background

Cream is an important part of daily skin care products of people, and moisture retention is always an important declared efficacy in cream products. Moisturizing creams achieve the moisturizing effect mostly by keeping the moisture of the stratum corneum, maintaining the elasticity of the skin and promoting the repair of the barrier function of the skin. Whether the moisturizing effect of the moisturizing cream is long-acting and lasting is also an important issue which is always concerned by people.

The moisturizing function of moisturizing cream in the current market is mainly embodied in two aspects: in a first aspect, the aqueous phase of the cream provides water-soluble moisturizing ingredients such as glycerin, urea, and the like; on the other hand, oils enhance the skin barrier function or form a moisturizing film on the skin surface to reduce the amount of water dispersed in the epidermis of the skin. Currently, moisturizing creams in the market mostly use micromolecular moisturizing agents such as glycerin, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, urea, trehalose and the like as effective components, and can achieve the effect of moisturizing the skin when being applied to the surface of the skin. One or two macromolecules such as sodium hyaluronate and the like are added into a small part of moisturizing cream to serve as film-forming components, so that the durability of the moisturizing effect of the product is improved.

However, the single macromolecular component in these products can only make the product have film-forming property, but cannot achieve the efficacy of the slow-release micromolecular humectant. The micromolecular humectant such as trehalose and sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate can rapidly permeate through the horny layer and be absorbed by the skin, the moisturizing effect of the micromolecular humectant can not be exerted on the horny layer for a long time, and the skin can not be continuously supplemented by the micromolecular humectant, so that the long-acting moisturizing effect can not be achieved.

Based on the above problems, how to improve the moisturizing performance of cream products and make the moisturizing effect more durable and long-acting becomes a technical problem to be solved by those skilled in the art.

Disclosure of Invention

Aiming at the problems in the prior art, the invention provides a cream with long-acting moisturizing effect. The cream is prepared by compounding the long-acting compound humectant with other auxiliary material components, solves the slow release problem of the micromolecule moisturizing component, has short-term and long-acting moisturizing effect, still exerts the moisturizing effect after the product is stopped, and effectively improves the moisturizing effect of the cream.

It is a first object of the present invention to provide a cream having a long-lasting moisturizing effect.

According to the invention, the cream has the following composition and amounts:

the compound humectant is compounded by three macromolecules of sodium polyglutamate, carrageen crispa and sodium hyaluronate and micromolecules of trehalose and the like, is added into the B phase of the cream, has the carrier performance, can exert the slow release effect, and interacts with other micromolecule moisturizing components to slowly release the micromolecule moisturizing components, so that the long-acting moisturizing effect is exerted.

According to the invention, the B-phase compound humectant comprises the following components in percentage by weight:

according to some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the ingredients and amounts of the phase B complex moisturizer are as follows:

according to some embodiments of the present invention, the preparation process of the B-phase composite humectant comprises the following steps:

(1) adding sodium polyglutamate, Chondrus crispus and sodium hyaluronate into glycerol, stirring and dispersing uniformly, adding into water, stirring, and heating to 70-90 deg.C to dissolve to obtain a first solution;

(2) adding L-serine, L-proline and L-glutamic acid into the first solution obtained in the step (1) to dissolve, adding a pH regulator to adjust the pH value to 4.5-5.5, and stirring to obtain a second solution;

(3) stirring and dissolving betaine, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, trehalose and allantoin, and adding the mixture into the second solution obtained in the step (2);

(4) cooling to below 40 deg.C, adding urea and antiseptic, stirring, filtering, and discharging.

According to some embodiments of the invention the sodium polyglutamate has a molecular weight of > 50 ten thousand Da, for example may be in the range of 50-300 ten thousand Da, such as 50 ten thousand Da, 80 ten thousand Da, 100 ten thousand Da, 150 ten thousand Da, 250 ten thousand Da, etc.

According to some embodiments of the invention the Chondrus crispus has a molecular weight ≧ 80 ten thousand Da, such as in the range of 80-600 ten thousand Da, such as 100 ten thousand Da, 150 ten thousand Da, 200 ten thousand Da, 500 ten thousand Da, etc.

According to some embodiments of the invention, the sodium hyaluronate is of molecular weight ≧ 5 ten thousand Da, such as in the range of 5-250 ten thousand Da, e.g. 50 ten thousand Da, 100 ten thousand Da, 150 ten thousand Da, 190 ten thousand Da, etc.

According to a more preferred embodiment of the invention, the molecular weight of the sodium polyglutamate is 100-150 kilodaltons.

According to a more preferred embodiment of the present invention, the molecular weight of the Chondrus crispus is 150-250 ten thousand Da.

According to a more preferred embodiment of the invention, the molecular weight of the sodium hyaluronate is 100-150 ten thousand Da.

According to some specific embodiments of the present invention, the phase a thickener is a cosmetically acceptable thickener, and may be, for example, one or more of carbomer, polyacrylates, xanthan gum, and cellulose.

According to some embodiments of the invention, the phase B polyol is a cosmetically acceptable polyol. For example, one or more of glycerol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol may be used.

According to some specific embodiments of the present invention, the phase B chelating agent is a cosmetically acceptable class of chelating agents. For example, EDTA-disodium may be mentioned.

According to some specific embodiments of the invention, the phase C emulsifier is a cosmetically acceptable emulsifier. For example, the fatty acid ester may be one or more of polyhydric alcohol fatty acid esters and glycosides, and glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate is preferable.

According to some specific embodiments of the invention, the C-phase siloxanes are any cosmetically acceptable siloxanes or mixtures thereof. For example, polydimethylsiloxane may be used.

According to some embodiments of the invention, the C-phase lipids are cosmetically acceptable vegetable and/or synthetic fats. For example, the oil can be one or more of olive oil, macadamia nut oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, ethylhexyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate and hydrogenated polyisobutene.

According to some embodiments of the invention, the phase C fatty alcohol is a cosmetically acceptable fatty alcohol. For example, the solvent may be one or more of cetostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.

According to some embodiments of the invention, the phase D pH adjuster is a cosmetically acceptable pH adjuster. For example, triethanolamine, glutamic acid, arginine, citric acid, sodium hydroxide, etc. may be mentioned.

According to some embodiments of the invention, phase D further comprises a suitable amount of a preservative that is cosmetically acceptable, such as phenoxyethanol/ethylhexylglycerin.

According to some embodiments of the present invention, the phase D may further include a proper amount of essence, which is acceptable in the cosmetic field, without being particularly limited.

The second purpose of the invention is to provide a preparation method of the moisturizing cream.

According to some embodiments of the invention, the cream preparation step comprises:

(1) adding the phase A thickener into water, stirring and dissolving;

(2) respectively adding the raw materials of the phase B into the phase A, heating to 80-90 ℃, and stirring while keeping the temperature;

(3) mixing phase C uniformly, and heating to 80-90 deg.C for use;

(4) adding phase C into the mixture obtained in the step (2), and homogenizing;

(5) stirring the mixture obtained in the step (4), cooling to below 40 ℃, and adding the phase D;

(6) and (5) stirring the mixture obtained in the step (5), cooling to below 38 ℃, filtering and discharging.

According to some embodiments of the present invention, the step (4) of homogenizing is a homogenizing technique known in the art, wherein the homogenizing time is 5-10 minutes, and the homogenizing speed is 1000-.

According to some preferred embodiments of the present invention, the preparation process of the B-phase composite humectant comprises the following steps:

(2) adding L-serine, L-proline and L-glutamic acid into the first solution obtained in the step (1) to dissolve, adding a pH regulator to regulate the pH to 4.5-5.5, and stirring to obtain a second solution;

According to the invention, the polyglutamic acid sodium, the carrageen crispus and the sodium hyaluronate form a space net structure after being compounded, and the space net structure has a loose porous structure. Amino acid has two groups of amino and carboxyl, is an ampholyte, and can react with different ionic substances due to the special structure of the ampholyte. By adjusting the pH value of the system, the system is lower than the isoelectric point of amino acid, the amino group on the amino acid has positive charge, and can simultaneously react with half ester sulfate group on the Chondrus crispus and carboxyl group on the polyglutamic acid, so that the amino acid is changed from being simply dissociated in a net structure to be tightly connected on a macromolecular structure to form a carrier structure. In addition, the added multiple micromolecule moisturizing agents can be loaded on the carrier net structure, are brought to the skin surface by the macromolecular carrier, and are slowly released, so that a synergistic effect is achieved, and a long-acting moisturizing effect is achieved.

The third object of the present invention is to provide a moisturizing cream obtained by the preparation method according to the second aspect of the present invention.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that at least:

(1) the compound humectant is creatively added into the cream system, and the carrier performance of the humectant enables the small molecular humectant to be slowly released, so that the moisturizing effect of the humectant is fully exerted, and the obvious and lasting moisturizing effect is achieved;

(2) the cream disclosed by the invention can play a good moisturizing effect in the aspects of short-term and long-term moisturizing, has good stability and skin feel, still generates the moisturizing effect after the product is stopped, and has good application value;

(3) the cream provided by the invention enables the humectant components to be efficiently utilized, and the bioavailability of the humectant components is improved.

Drawings

FIG. 1 shows the results of a test of the rate of change of the moisture content of a cream relative to the mean of the initial values according to example 16; the results of the test of the rate of change of the moisture content of the creams from the mean of the initial values according to comparative examples 6-10; the results of the test of the rate of change of the moisture content of the cream from the mean of the initial values according to comparative example 16; the moisture content of the commercial cream competitive product is compared with the average value change rate test result of the initial value;

FIG. 2 is the results of the rate of change of moisture content of the cream according to example 16; the results of the rate of change of moisture content of the creams according to comparative examples 6-10; the cream moisture content change rate results according to comparative example 16; the results of the rate of change of moisture content of the commercial cream contest.

The specific implementation mode is as follows:

to further illustrate the technical means and effects of the present invention, the present invention is further described with reference to the following examples. It is to be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are merely illustrative of the invention and are not limiting of the invention. The examples, which are not specifically shown for the specific methods, are all routine in the art or according to the product specifications. The reagents or apparatus used are conventional products commercially available from normal sources, not indicated by the manufacturer.

Table 1 raw materials supplier list

TABLE 2 Instrument information List

Examples 1-15 preparation of composite moisturizer

Example 1:

1) adding 0.3 part by weight of sodium polyglutamate (molecular weight of 100 ten thousand Da), 2 parts by weight of Chondrus crispus (molecular weight of 200 ten thousand Da) and 0.2 part by weight of sodium hyaluronate (molecular weight of 100 ten thousand Da) into 35 parts by weight of glycerin, stirring and dispersing uniformly, adding into water, stirring at the rotating speed of 300r/min by using a stirrer, and simultaneously heating to 80 ℃ until the sodium polyglutamate, the Chondrus crispus and the sodium hyaluronate are completely dissolved;

2) weighing 1.2 parts by weight of L-serine and 0.6 part by weight of L-proline, adding into the solution obtained in the step 1) for dissolving, adding L-glutamic acid to adjust the pH value to 4.5-5.5, and uniformly stirring at the rotating speed of a stirrer of 300 r/min;

3) weighing 4 parts by weight of betaine, 6 parts by weight of sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, 4 parts by weight of trehalose and 0.2 part by weight of allantoin, stirring and dissolving, and adding the obtained solution in the step 2);

4) cooling to below 40 ℃, adding 8 parts by weight of urea and 0.4 part by weight of preservative octylene glycol, stirring uniformly, filtering and discharging.

Example 2:

3) weighing 4 parts by weight of betaine, 6 parts by weight of sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, 4 parts by weight of trehalose and 0.2 part by weight of allantoin, stirring and dissolving, and adding into the solution obtained in the step 2);

4) cooling to below 40 ℃, adding 0.4 weight part of preservative octyl glycol, stirring uniformly, filtering and discharging.

Example 3:

1) adding 0.3 part by weight of sodium polyglutamate (molecular weight of 100 ten thousand Da), 2 parts by weight of Chondrus crispus (molecular weight of 200 ten thousand Da) and 0.2 part by weight of sodium hyaluronate (molecular weight of 100 ten thousand Da) into 40 parts by weight of glycerin, stirring and dispersing uniformly, adding into water, stirring at the rotating speed of 300r/min by using a stirrer, and simultaneously heating to 80 ℃ until the sodium polyglutamate, the Chondrus crispus and the sodium hyaluronate are completely dissolved;

3) weighing 4 parts by weight of betaine and 6 parts by weight of sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, and adding the mixture into the solution obtained in the step 2), stirring and dissolving;

Example 4:

1) adding 0.3 part by weight of sodium polyglutamate (with a molecular weight of 50 ten thousand Da), 2 parts by weight of Chondrus crispus (with a molecular weight of 80 ten thousand Da) and 0.2 part by weight of sodium hyaluronate (with a molecular weight of 50 ten thousand Da) into 35 parts by weight of glycerin, stirring and dispersing uniformly, adding into water, stirring at a stirrer rotating speed of 300r/min, and simultaneously heating to 85 ℃ until the sodium polyglutamate, the Chondrus crispus and the sodium hyaluronate are completely dissolved;

Example 5:

1) adding 0.3 part by weight of sodium polyglutamate (molecular weight of 150 ten thousand Da), 2 parts by weight of Chondrus crispus (molecular weight of 150 ten thousand Da) and 0.2 part by weight of sodium hyaluronate (molecular weight of 150 ten thousand Da) into 35 parts by weight of glycerin, stirring and dispersing uniformly, adding into water, stirring at the rotating speed of a stirrer of 300r/min, and simultaneously heating to 75 ℃ until the sodium polyglutamate, the Chondrus crispus and the sodium hyaluronate are completely dissolved;

Example 6:

1) adding 0.3 part by weight of sodium polyglutamate (molecular weight of 100 ten thousand Da), 2 parts by weight of Chondrus crispus (molecular weight of 150 ten thousand Da) and 0.2 part by weight of sodium hyaluronate (molecular weight of 150 ten thousand Da) into 35 parts by weight of glycerin, stirring and dispersing uniformly, adding into water, stirring at the rotating speed of 300r/min by using a stirrer, and simultaneously heating to 80 ℃ until the sodium polyglutamate, the Chondrus crispus and the sodium hyaluronate are completely dissolved;

Example 7:

1) adding 0.3 part by weight of sodium polyglutamate (molecular weight of 80 ten thousand Da), 2 parts by weight of Chondrus crispus (molecular weight of 200 ten thousand Da) and 0.2 part by weight of sodium hyaluronate (molecular weight of 100 ten thousand Da) into 35 parts by weight of glycerin, stirring and dispersing uniformly, adding into water, stirring at the rotating speed of 300r/min by using a stirrer, and simultaneously heating to 85 ℃ until the sodium polyglutamate, the Chondrus crispus and the sodium hyaluronate are completely dissolved;

Example 8:

1) adding 1 weight part of sodium polyglutamate (molecular weight is 50 ten thousand Da), 0.01 weight part of Chondrus crispus (molecular weight is 200 ten thousand Da) and 1 weight part of sodium hyaluronate (molecular weight is 100 ten thousand Da) into 15 weight parts of glycerin, stirring and dispersing uniformly, adding into water, stirring at the rotating speed of 300r/min by using a stirrer, and simultaneously heating to 80 ℃ until the sodium polyglutamate, the Chondrus crispus and the sodium hyaluronate are completely dissolved;

2) weighing 2 parts by weight of L-serine and 2 parts by weight of L-proline, adding into the medium obtained in the step 1), dissolving, adding L-glutamic acid, adjusting the pH value to 4.5-5.5, and uniformly stirring at a stirrer rotating speed of 300 r/min;

3) weighing 10 parts by weight of betaine, 10 parts by weight of sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, 10 parts by weight of trehalose and 0.5 part by weight of allantoin, stirring and dissolving, and adding into the solution obtained in the step 2);

4) cooling to below 40 ℃, adding 20 parts by weight of urea and 0.3 part by weight of preservative octylene glycol, stirring uniformly, filtering and discharging.

Example 9:

1) adding 0.2 part by weight of sodium polyglutamate (with the molecular weight of 250 ten thousand Da), 5 parts by weight of Chondrus crispus (with the molecular weight of 200 ten thousand Da) and 0.2 part by weight of sodium hyaluronate (with the molecular weight of 100 ten thousand Da) into 40 parts by weight of glycerin, stirring and dispersing uniformly, adding into water, stirring at the rotating speed of 300r/min by using a stirrer, and simultaneously heating to 80 ℃ until the sodium polyglutamate, the Chondrus crispus and the sodium hyaluronate are completely dissolved;

2) weighing 1 part by weight of L-serine and 0.5 part by weight of L-proline, adding into the solution obtained in the step 1) for dissolving, adding L-glutamic acid to adjust the pH value to 4.5-5.5, and uniformly stirring at the rotating speed of 300r/min of a stirrer;

3) weighing 5 parts by weight of betaine, 5 parts by weight of sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, 10 parts by weight of trehalose and 0.1 part by weight of allantoin, stirring and dissolving, and adding into the solution obtained in the step 2);

4) cooling to below 40 ℃, adding 10 parts by weight of urea and 0.3 part by weight of preservative octylene glycol, stirring uniformly, filtering and discharging.

Example 10:

1) adding 0.2 weight part of sodium polyglutamate (molecular weight of 100 ten thousand Da), 1 weight part of Chondrus crispus (molecular weight of 100 ten thousand Da) and 0.1 weight part of sodium hyaluronate (molecular weight of 100 ten thousand Da) into 20 weight parts of glycerin, stirring and dispersing uniformly, adding into water, stirring at the rotating speed of 300r/min by using a stirrer, and simultaneously heating to 75 ℃ until the sodium polyglutamate, the Chondrus crispus and the sodium hyaluronate are completely dissolved;

2) weighing 0.01 part by weight of L-serine and 0.5 part by weight of L-proline, adding into the solution obtained in the step 1), dissolving, adding L-glutamic acid, adjusting the pH value to 4.5-5.5, and uniformly stirring at the rotating speed of 300r/min by using a stirrer;

3) weighing 5 parts by weight of betaine, 5 parts by weight of sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, 5 parts by weight of trehalose and 0.2 part by weight of allantoin, stirring and dissolving, and adding the mixture into the solution obtained in the step 2);

4) cooling to below 40 ℃, adding 5 parts by weight of urea and 0.5 part by weight of preservative octylene glycol, stirring uniformly, filtering and discharging.

Example 11:

1) adding 2 parts by weight of sodium polyglutamate (molecular weight of 100 ten thousand Da), 2 parts by weight of Chondrus crispus (molecular weight of 500 ten thousand Da) and 2 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate (molecular weight of 100 ten thousand Da) into 40 parts by weight of glycerin, stirring and dispersing uniformly, adding into water, stirring at the rotating speed of a stirrer of 300r/min, and simultaneously heating to 85 ℃ until the sodium polyglutamate, the Chondrus crispus and the sodium hyaluronate are completely dissolved;

2) weighing 1 part by weight of L-serine, 0.01 part by weight of L-proline and 0.1 part by weight of L-glutamic acid, adding into the solution obtained in the step 1) for dissolving, adding citric acid and sodium hydroxide to adjust the pH value to 4.5-5.5, and uniformly stirring at the rotating speed of a stirrer of 300 r/min;

3) weighing 5 parts by weight of betaine, 3 parts by weight of sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, 5 parts by weight of trehalose and 0.1 part by weight of allantoin, stirring and dissolving, and adding the mixture into the solution obtained in the step 2);

4) cooling to below 40 deg.C, adding urea 10 weight parts and antiseptic phenoxyethanol/ethylhexyl glycerol 0.8 weight parts, stirring, filtering, and discharging.

Example 12:

1) adding 1 weight part of poly-sodium glutamate (molecular weight 100 ten thousand Da), 1 weight part of Chondrus crispus (molecular weight 80 ten thousand Da) and 1 weight part of sodium hyaluronate (molecular weight 100 ten thousand Da) into 10 weight parts of glycerin, stirring and dispersing uniformly, adding into water, stirring at the rotating speed of a stirrer of 300r/min, and simultaneously heating to 70 ℃ until the solution is completely dissolved;

2) weighing 1.5 parts by weight of L-serine, 1 part by weight of L-proline and 0.1 part by weight of L-glutamic acid, adding into the solution obtained in the step 1) for dissolving, adding citric acid and sodium hydroxide to adjust the pH value to 4.5-5.5, and uniformly stirring at the rotating speed of a stirrer of 300 r/min;

3) weighing 5 parts by weight of betaine, 5 parts by weight of sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, 0.5 part by weight of trehalose and 0.1 part by weight of allantoin, stirring and dissolving, and adding into the solution obtained in the step 2);

4) cooling to below 40 deg.C, adding 5 weight parts of urea and 0.8 weight part of antiseptic phenoxyethanol/ethylhexyl glycerol, stirring, filtering, and discharging.

Example 13:

1) adding 0.01 weight part of sodium polyglutamate (molecular weight of 100 ten thousand Da), 3 weight parts of Chondrus crispus (molecular weight of 200 ten thousand Da) and 0.01 weight part of sodium hyaluronate (molecular weight of 5 ten thousand Da) into 8 weight parts of glycerin, stirring and dispersing uniformly, adding into water, stirring at the rotating speed of 300r/min by using a stirrer, and simultaneously heating to 90 ℃ until the sodium polyglutamate, the Chondrus crispus and the sodium hyaluronate are completely dissolved;

2) weighing 0.8 part by weight of L-serine, 1.8 parts by weight of L-proline and 0.1 part by weight of L-glutamic acid, adding into the solution obtained in the step 1), dissolving, adding citric acid and sodium hydroxide to adjust the pH value to 4.5-5.5, and uniformly stirring at the rotating speed of a stirrer of 300 r/min;

3) weighing 4 parts by weight of betaine, 0.2 part by weight of sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, 1 part by weight of trehalose and 0.01 part by weight of allantoin, stirring and dissolving, and adding into the solution obtained in the step 2);

4) cooling to below 40 deg.C, adding 1 weight part of urea and 0.8 weight part of antiseptic phenoxyethanol/ethylhexyl glycerol, stirring, filtering, and discharging.

Example 14:

1) adding 0.01 weight part of sodium polyglutamate (molecular weight is 80 ten thousand Da), 3 weight parts of Chondrus crispus (molecular weight is 80 ten thousand Da) and 0.01 weight part of sodium hyaluronate (molecular weight is 50 ten thousand Da) into 8 weight parts of glycerin, stirring and dispersing uniformly, adding into water, stirring at the rotating speed of 300r/min by using a stirrer, and simultaneously heating to 85 ℃ until the sodium polyglutamate, the Chondrus crispus and the sodium hyaluronate are completely dissolved;

Example 15:

1) adding 0.01 weight part of sodium polyglutamate (molecular weight is 50 ten thousand Da), 3 weight parts of Chondrus crispus (molecular weight is 80 ten thousand Da) and 0.01 weight part of sodium hyaluronate (molecular weight is 190 ten thousand Da) into 8 weight parts of glycerin, stirring and dispersing uniformly, adding into water, stirring at the rotating speed of 300r/min by using a stirrer, and simultaneously heating to 85 ℃ until the sodium polyglutamate, the Chondrus crispus and the sodium hyaluronate are completely dissolved;

Comparative example 1 preparation:

1) adding 2 parts by weight of Chondrus ocellatus (molecular weight 200 ten thousand Da) and 0.2 part by weight of sodium hyaluronate (molecular weight 100 ten thousand Da) into 35 parts by weight of glycerin, stirring and dispersing uniformly, adding into water, stirring at the rotating speed of 300r/min by a stirrer, and simultaneously heating to 80 ℃ until the solution is completely dissolved;

2) weighing 1.2 parts by weight of L-serine and 0.6 part by weight of L-proline, adding into the mixed solution obtained in the step 1), dissolving, adding L-glutamic acid, adjusting the pH value to 4.5-5.5, and uniformly stirring at the rotating speed of a stirrer of 300 r/min;

3) weighing 4 parts by weight of betaine, 6 parts by weight of sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, 4 parts by weight of trehalose and 0.2 part by weight of allantoin, stirring and dissolving, and adding into the mixed solution obtained in the step 2);

Comparative example 2 preparation:

1) adding 0.3 part by weight of sodium polyglutamate (molecular weight 100 ten thousand Da) and 0.2 part by weight of sodium hyaluronate (molecular weight 100 ten thousand Da) into 35 parts by weight of glycerin, stirring and dispersing uniformly, adding into water, stirring at the rotating speed of a stirrer of 300r/min, and simultaneously heating to 80 ℃ until the sodium polyglutamate and the sodium hyaluronate are completely dissolved;

Comparative example 3 preparation:

2) weighing 4 parts by weight of betaine, 6 parts by weight of sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, 4 parts by weight of trehalose and 0.2 part by weight of allantoin, stirring and dissolving, and adding into the mixed solution obtained in the step 1);

3) cooling to below 40 ℃, adding 8 parts by weight of urea and 0.4 part by weight of preservative octylene glycol, stirring uniformly, filtering and discharging.

Comparative example 4 preparation:

3) weighing 6 parts by weight of sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, 4 parts by weight of trehalose and 0.2 part by weight of allantoin, stirring and dissolving, and adding into the mixed solution obtained in the step 2);

Comparative example 5 preparation:

3) weighing 4 parts by weight of betaine, 4 parts by weight of trehalose and 0.2 part by weight of allantoin, stirring and dissolving, and adding into the mixed solution obtained in the step 2);

Optimization of preparation process of composite humectant

The researchers of the invention study the preparation process of the humectant, and the preparation process is the same as that of the example 1 except that the temperature is different. The effect of different temperatures (normal temperature, 40 ℃, 50 ℃, 60 ℃, 70 ℃, 80 ℃, 90 ℃ and 95 ℃) on the performance of the composition is compared and researched.

The product state and stability of the compositions prepared at different temperatures were observed and the results were as follows:

temperature of

At normal temperature

40℃

50℃

60℃

70℃

80℃

90℃

95℃

Product form State of the art

Proper viscosity Preferably, there are Suspended fish Ophthalmic particles Substance in the form of a paste The presence of the one or more of, uniformity of Is poor

Viscosity of the oil The method is suitable for the application of the anti-cancer medicine, with a suspension Floating fish Eye granule Granular form Substance(s) The presence of the one or more of, uniformity Comparison of properties Difference (D)

Proper viscosity Preferably, with a suspension Floating fish eye Granular form Substance storage In the presence of Poor in performance

Proper viscosity Preferably, it is transparent The degree of the mixture is better, fine texture Greasy and mobile The health-care food has the advantages of appropriate nature, film forming property Good taste

Proper viscosity Preferably, thoroughly penetrate Lightness comparison Good and quality Ground thickness Greasy and greasy feeling Is suitable for mobility Preferably, it is made Good film property

Proper viscosity and permeability Better lightness and quality Fine and fluid ground Proper in nature and can form film Good in performance

Stability of

Daily mosquito-repellent incense Light conditions Is placed under After 7 days Solution bottom Has a part penetrating Ming granule Substance in the form of a paste The aggregation is carried out by the aggregation of the components, stability of Is poor

Daily life Light-shielding Condition Put down Standing for 7 days Post-dissolving Liquid bottom Is provided with Is transparent Granules Form object Mass accumulation Collecting and stabilizing Characterization of nature Is poor

Daily mosquito-repellent incense Light conditions Lower placing 7 Dissolving in water at a later date Liquid bottom With a transparent layer Granular form Substance polymerization Collecting and stabilizing Poor in performance

Daily mosquito-repellent incense Light conditions Lower placing 7 Dissolving in water at a later date The liquid is still Transparent bag Precipitation of

Daily mosquito-repellent incense Light conditions Is placed under After 7 days Solution of Old transparent No precipitation

Daily light-resistant conditions After being placed for 7 days The solution is still transparent No precipitation

From the above experimental results, it can be seen that when the heating temperature is lower than 60 ℃, the obtained humectant has poor stability, uniformity and the like, and when the heating temperature is higher than 70 ℃, the stability and the product state are good, and the stability, uniformity, fluidity, moldability and other properties of the composition have a great influence on the performance of the composition carrier, and the heating temperature in the preparation process of the composite humectant of the present invention is preferably higher than 70 ℃, and is preferably 70-90 ℃.

Examples 16 to 24: cream preparation

Examples 16-24 creams were obtained by the following preparation process:

(1) adding the phase A thickener into water, stirring and dissolving;

(3) mixing phase C uniformly, and heating to 80-90 deg.C for use;

(4) adding the phase C into the mixture obtained in the step (2), and homogenizing (1000-;

Example 16 components and amounts:

example 17 components and amounts:

example 18 components and amounts:

example 19 components and amounts:

example 20 components and amounts:

example 21 components and amounts:

example 22 components and amounts:

example 23 components and amounts:

example 24 components and amounts:

comparative examples 6 to10

Comparative examples 6-10 cream B phase composite moisturizer 5wt% of the moisturizer prepared in comparative examples 1-5 was added, and the other components, the amounts and the preparation method were the same as those of the cream of example 16.

Comparative examples 11 to 17

Comparative examples 11-17 cream was prepared as in example 16, with the following components and amounts:

the results of the line condition observation and skin feel and stability testing for some of the examples and comparative examples are shown in the following table:

example 16

Comparative examples 6 to10

Comparative example 11

Comparative example 12

Comparative example 13

Comparative example 14

Comparative example 15

Comparative example 16

Comparative example 17

The emulsion state is good, and the emulsion state is good, the consistency is good

The state is too thin to be correct In the form of a flowing emulsion

The state of the paste is too hard, poor smearing effect

The paste is too thick and is smeared Has the phenomenon of mud rubbing

The ointment is too thin to be prepared In the form of a flowing emulsion

The emulsion can not be carried out, the system is oiled

When in smearing Whitening of the skin

The inventor uses other examples to test the off-line state, the skin feel and the stability, and the cream prepared by other examples has good emulsified state, good consistency and strong stability.

Efficacy evaluation test

Evaluation of one-, short-and long-term moisturizing effects

(1) Test samples: comparative examples 6-10, comparative example 16, example 16 cream samples, and some commercially available moisturizing creams (major ingredients were water, glycerin, cyclohexasiloxane, squalane, sucrose stearate, stearyl alcohol, pentaerythritol tetrakis (ethyl hexanoate), myristyl myristate, phenoxyethanol, carbomer, etc.).

(2) The test method comprises the following steps:

experiment I, volunteers sit still for 1h in a constant-humidity and constant-temperature room and then measure the initial skin moisture content of cheeks. Test samples were smeared on the cheeks and skin moisture content was tested at 2 hours, 4 hours, 6 hours, 8 hours, 24 hours, 48 hours after smearing the samples.

Experiment II, the initial skin water content of the cheek of the volunteer is measured after the volunteer sits statically for 1h in a constant-humidity and constant-temperature room, the product is continuously used for 21 days according to a specified method, the application is stopped after 21 days, the face is not coated with any product, and the skin water content of the cheek of the 2 th day after the application is stopped and the skin water content of the cheek of the 5 th day after the application is respectively measured.

Testing an instrument: skin moisture tester (Corneometer CM825, CK, germany).

The test results of the 48-hour moisturizing experiment are shown in fig. 1, and according to the skin moisture content test results in fig. 1, the cream prepared in example 16 has the best moisturizing effect after 48 hours.

The results of the 21d and post-disuse human body moisturizing experiments are shown in fig. 2: after 21 days of use of the test sample, the mean rate of change of the moisture content of the skin of the cheek of the subject using example 16 from the initial value was significantly higher than that of the other groups, and within 5 days of the disuse of the sample, the mean rate of change of the moisture content of the skin of the cheek of the subject using example 16 to prepare a cream from the initial value was also significantly higher than that of the other groups. The moisturizing cream can effectively increase skin moisture, can achieve the effect of keeping skin moisture for a long time, and has a long-acting moisturizing effect superior to that of a comparative example and competitive products.

The compositions of the composite humectant are different from those of the moisturizers in the comparative examples 6, 7, 9 and 10, and the macromolecular substances sodium hyaluronate, sodium polyglutamate and carrageen crispus interact to form a space network structure which is a structural basis for exerting long-term moisturizing effect; meanwhile, betaine, trehalose and sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate in the compound humectant play an important role in exerting a long-acting moisturizing effect.

The comparative example 8 is different from the preparation process of the moisturizing agent in the embodiment 16 of the invention, and the pH value of the system is not adjusted in the process of preparing the moisturizing agent, so that the moisturizing effect of the cream prepared in the comparative example 8 is influenced. The researchers of the invention find that the pH value is too high or too low, which has great influence on the stability of the system and the applicability and efficacy of the product. When the pH is too low, the pH of the whole formula product can be changed and the application difficulty is increased when the product is used as a cosmetic raw material, and when the pH is too high, part of added amino acid is above the isoelectric point, the combination of the micromolecule amino acid and the macromolecular carrier structure is not firm enough, the slow release effect is poor, and the long-acting moisturizing function is not facilitated. The preferred pH of the present invention is 4.5 to 5.0. Within the pH value range of the invention, the obtained humectant is stable, has good skin feel, proper formula applicability and low irritation to skin, and can achieve the function of long-acting and slow release.

The moisturizing experiment proves that compared with comparative examples and commercially available moisturizing cream products, the cream disclosed by the invention has the short-term and long-acting slow-release moisturizing effects, and the good moisturizing effect of the cream product is still kept after the cream product is stopped.

Claims

1. A cream with moisturizing effect comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight:

addition amount (wt%) of phase composition

TO 100A Water

0.30-1.00% of thickening agent

Polyol B0.00-10.00

0.50-10.00% of compound humectant

Chelating agent 0.00-0.50

C emulsifier 1.00-6.00

Siloxanes 1.00-20.00

Oil and fat 10.00-30.00

Fatty alcohol 0.30-2.00

D, 0.05 to 1.00 of pH regulator,

the B-phase composite humectant comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight:

name of raw materials Addition amount (wt%) Water (W) TO100 Hyaluronic acid sodium salt 0.01-5.00 Chondrus CRISPUS (Chondrus CRISPUS) 0.01-5.00 Polyglutamic acid sodium salt 0.01-5.00 Glycerol 0.001-40.00 L-serine 0.01-2.00 L-proline 0.00-2.00 L-glutamic acid 0.00-0.30 Betaine 0.001-15.00 Urea 0.00-20.00 Pyrrolidinone carboxylic acid sodium salt 0.001-15.00 Trehalose 0.00-10.00 Preservative 0.00-1.00 Allantoin 0.001-0.50 pH regulator 0.001-5.00，

Preferably, the B-phase composite humectant comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight:

raw material name addition amount (wt%)

Water TO100

0.01-5.00 g of sodium hyaluronate

Chondrus CRISPUS (Chondrus CRISPUS) 0.01-5.00

0.01-5.00% of sodium polyglutamate

Glycerin 0.001-40.00

L-serine 0.01-2.00

L-proline 0.01-2.00

L-glutamic acid 0.001-0.30

Betaine 0.001-15.00

0.001-20.00% of urea

Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid sodium 0.001-15.00

Trehalose 0.001-10.00

0.001-1.00% of preservative

Allantoin 0.001-0.50

pH regulator 0.001-5.00.

2. The cream of claim 1, wherein the composite moisturizer is prepared by a method comprising the steps of:

1) adding sodium polyglutamate, Chondrus crispus and sodium hyaluronate into glycerol, stirring, adding into water, stirring, and heating to 70-90 deg.C for dissolving to obtain a first solution;

2) adding L-serine, L-proline and L-glutamic acid into the first solution obtained in the step 1) for dissolving, adding a pH regulator, regulating the pH to 4.5-5.5, and stirring to obtain a second solution;

3) stirring and dissolving betaine, sodium pyrrolidone carboxylate, trehalose and allantoin, and adding the mixture into the second solution obtained in the step 2);

4) cooling to below 40 deg.C, adding urea and antiseptic, stirring, filtering, and discharging.

3. The cream according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the molecular weight of the sodium polyglutamate is equal to or greater than 50 ten thousand Da, and/or the molecular weight of the Chondrus crispus is equal to or greater than 80 ten thousand Da, and/or the molecular weight of the sodium hyaluronate is equal to or greater than 5 ten thousand Da; preferably, the molecular weight of the sodium polyglutamate is more than or equal to100 ten thousand Da, and/or the molecular weight of the Chondrus crispus is more than or equal to 200 ten thousand Da, and/or the molecular weight of the sodium hyaluronate is more than or equal to100 ten thousand Da.

4. A cream according to any one of claims 1 to 3 wherein the thickener is a cosmetically acceptable thickener, preferably one or more of carbomer, polyacrylates, xanthan gum and cellulose.

5. The cream according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the polyhydric alcohol is a cosmetically acceptable polyhydric alcohol, preferably one or more of glycerol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol; and/or the chelating agent is a cosmetically acceptable chelating agent, preferably EDTA-disodium.

6. The cream according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the emulsifier is a cosmetically acceptable emulsifier, preferably one or more of polyol fatty acid esters, glycosides, more preferably glyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate; and/or the silicone is any cosmetically acceptable silicone or mixture thereof, preferably polydimethylsiloxane.

7. The cream according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the oils and fats are cosmetically acceptable vegetable oils and/or synthetic oils and fats, preferably one or more of olive oil, macadamia oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, ethylhexyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate and hydrogenated polyisobutene; and/or the fatty alcohol is a fatty alcohol acceptable in the field of cosmetics, preferably one or more of cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.

8. The cream according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the pH regulator is a cosmetically acceptable pH regulator, preferably triethanolamine, glutamic acid, arginine, citric acid, sodium hydroxide; and/or the phase D also comprises a preservative which is acceptable in the cosmetic field, preferably phenoxyethanol/ethylhexyl glycerin; and/or the phase D also comprises a proper amount of essence.

9. A process for the preparation of a cream according to any one of claims 1 to 8, which comprises the steps of:

(1) adding the phase A thickener into water, stirring and dissolving;

(3) mixing the phase C uniformly, and heating to 80-90 ℃;

(4) adding phase C into the mixture obtained in the step (2), and homogenizing;

10. A cream having moisturizing effect, which is prepared by the method of claim 9.