CN112244405A

CN112244405A - Umbrella-shaped woman dress tailoring method

Info

Publication number: CN112244405A
Application number: CN202011080584.XA
Authority: CN
Inventors: 陈文强
Original assignee: Xijing University
Current assignee: Xijing University
Priority date: 2020-10-10
Filing date: 2020-10-10
Publication date: 2021-01-22
Anticipated expiration: 2040-10-10
Also published as: CN112244405B

Abstract

The invention discloses a method for cutting umbrella-shaped women's dress, which finishes cutting garment pieces, sleeve pieces and placket shields on an umbrella-shaped structure. The umbrella shape is an integral structure which is formed by folding and cutting a piece of cloth into a semicircle, and continuously cutting a neckline, a side seam, a conical pin and a single-layer fan body on the semicircle to finish the women's dress. The collar piece is cut on the residual single-layer fan body, and the collar piece is cut into two pieces and sewn by adopting a binding process. The sewing of the garment piece is realized by performing edge-checking sewing at the side seam and the sleeve bottom seam of the garment piece, and the sewing of the front fly, the front fly mouth, the front guard fly, the bottom edge and the sleeve opening part is realized by adopting a binding process. The invention has the advantages that the umbrella-shaped frame type is adopted for drawing, the drawing efficiency is improved, and the drawing steps are reduced.

Description

Umbrella-shaped woman dress tailoring method

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of suit-dress manufacturing, and particularly relates to an umbrella-shaped suit-dress tailoring method.

Background

The umbrella-shaped women's dress belongs to traditional women's dress, in traditional women's dress tailoring, mostly adopt the square folding method of cloth, there is the expression that can not be with women's dress shoulder slope in this method, and this method needs the folding cloth many times when tailorring, and the operation degree of difficulty is big. Meanwhile, when the square folded cloth is cut, the sizes of parts such as the length of the clothes, the chest circumference, the collar circumference, the waist circumference, the front width, the back width, the length of the sleeves, the cuffs and the like are required, so that the calculation method and the drawing process of cutting are added, and the improvement of the cutting efficiency and the modeling of the traditional women's dress is not facilitated. The scheme provides the umbrella-shaped female garment tailoring method which can effectively solve the problems.

Disclosure of Invention

Aiming at the problems in the prior art, the invention aims to provide the umbrella-shaped woman dress cutting method, which adopts an umbrella-shaped frame type to carry out drawing, improves the drawing efficiency and reduces the drawing steps.

In order to achieve the technical purpose, the invention is specifically realized by the following technical scheme:

an umbrella-shaped suit-dress tailoring method comprises the following steps:

1) cutting umbrella-shaped garment pieces

Folding the cloth in half, taking an umbrella center point o on the folding line, and cutting a semicircular garment piece by taking the umbrella center point o as the circle center and the body length as the radius, wherein the radius calculation method comprises the following steps: number-100, two ends of the fold line are respectively provided with a rear umbrella long point a and a front umbrella long point b, a rear side seam point f, a sleeve long point e, a front side seam point d and a front clothes long point c are respectively taken on the periphery of the semicircular garment piece, and line segments of, oe, od, oc and an equal fan are divided into five equal parts;

2) cutting system of conical pin

Respectively taking a rear underarm point h and a rear side waist point h3 on the line segment of, taking a front underarm point g and a front side waist point g3 on the line segment od, and taking a front digging front part point o6 and a front deflection front part waist point b3 on the line segment ob, wherein the lengths of the line segments oh, og and oo6 are as follows: type × 0.25, the length of segments hh3, gg3, and o6b3 is: type X0.19;

the vertical lines h3h1 and h3h2 for of at the back side waist point h3, the vertical lines g3g2 and g3g1 for of od at the front side waist point g3, the vertical line b3b2 for ob at the front side waist point b3, and the lengths of the line segments h1h3, h3h2, g2g3, g3g1 and b2b3 are: type x 0.023;

taking a rear right side seam point f1, a rear left side seam point f2, a front right side seam point d1, a front left side seam point d2 and a front flap side point b1 on a round edge, wherein the right side seam point f1 and the rear left side seam point f2 are respectively positioned on two sides of the rear side seam point f, the front right side seam point d1 and the front left side seam point d2 are respectively positioned on two sides of the front side seam point d, and the arc lengths of arc line segments f2f, ff1, d2d, dd1 and b1b are as follows: the pin is multiplied by 0.017, a line segment hh1, h1f2, hh2, h2f1 and an arc line segment f2ff1 form a tapered pin structure, a line segment gg1, g1d1, gg2, g2d2 and an arc line segment d1dd2 form another tapered pin structure, and a line segment o6b2, a line segment b2b1 and an arc line segment b1b form a semi-tapered pin structure which are respectively cut;

3) cutting collar

Taking a back collar root point o1, a back collar middle arc point o2, a back collar side point o3, a front collar middle arc point o4 and a front collar deep point o5 on oa, of, oe, od and oc respectively, wherein the length of the oo1 is as follows: type × 0.035, oo2 has a length: type × 0.043, oo3 has a length: type × 0.075, oo4 has a length: type × 0.108, oo5 has a length: the model is multiplied by 0.117, a smooth curve is respectively connected with o1, o2, o3, o4 and o5 to form a neckline arc and the neckline arc is cut, and the length of the neckline arc is as follows: type x 0.212;

4) cutting of front part

Connecting a front neckline deep point o5 and a front digging flap point o6, taking a midpoint k of a line segment o5o6, and drawing a vertical line segment kk1 of the line segment o5o6 by k, wherein the length of the kk1 is as follows: the model is multiplied by 0.017, and a front fly is bent and cut by connecting o5, k1 and o6 with smooth curves;

5) cutting system for bottom edge of front placket

The length of the front garment length point c is taken as a line segment cc1 forming an included angle of 45 degrees with the oc, and the length of cc1 is as follows: the model is multiplied by 0.128, a smooth curve is used for connecting o5, c1 and d1 to form a bottom edge fillet of the front guard, and upper-layer cloth A is cut off along the bottom edge fillet of the front guard;

6) cutting collar

Get collar left point m, collar midpoint p and collar right point n on the upper cloth A that cuts out, the pitch arc mpn matches with the pitch arc that o1o2o3o4o5 constitutes, collar midpoint p is the midpoint of pitch arc mpn, use collar midpoint p to make the perpendicular line of line segment mn and get and collar outside point q, pq length is: the model is multiplied by 0.047, mq and nq are connected, a left collar vertical point s and a right collar vertical point r are respectively taken on the mq and the nq, a line segment st is positioned at the left third of the line segment mq and is vertical, a line segment rl is positioned at the right third of the line segment pn and is vertical, and the lengths of the line segments st and rl are as follows: the model is multiplied by 0.024, m, p and n form a bottom edge line of the collar piece, m, t, q, l and n form an outer opening arc line of the collar piece, and the collar piece is obtained by cutting;

7) stitching of umbrella-shaped women's dress

The folded garment piece is opened, the folded garment piece is folded in half by taking the line of oe as the diameter, the edge gg2d2 and the edge hh2f1 are sewn to form a sleeve, and the edge gg1d1 and the edge hh1f2 are sewn to form a side seam;

and (3) bonding the two cut same collar sheets, and sewing a left collar point m and a right collar point n which respectively correspond to the left and right front collar deep points o 5.

The invention has the beneficial effects that:

the present invention relates to a method for cutting umbrella-type woman's dress, and is characterized by that on the umbrella-type structure the cut pieces of garment, sleeve pieces and front-protecting garment can be cut. The umbrella shape is an integral structure which is formed by folding and cutting a piece of cloth into a semicircle, and continuously cutting a neckline, a side seam, a conical pin and a single-layer fan body on the semicircle to finish the women dress. The collar piece is cut on the remaining single-layer fan body, and the collar piece is cut into two pieces and sewn by adopting a binding process. The sewing of the garment piece is to sew the side seam of the garment piece and the bottom seam of the sleeve by edging, and sew the front fly, the front fly mouth, the front protective fly, the bottom edge and the sleeve opening by the edge rolling process.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a drawing structure diagram of an umbrella-shaped female garment of the present invention;

FIG. 2 is a schematic view of the cutting process of the garment piece and the collar piece of the present invention;

FIG. 3 is a schematic view of the overall structure of the umbrella-shaped female garment of the invention;

FIG. 4 is a schematic view of the binding sewing process of the present invention;

FIG. 5 is a schematic view of the sleeve bottom seam and panel side seam sewing process of the present invention;

FIG. 6 is a schematic view of the manufacturing process of the collar piece of the present invention;

FIG. 7 is a schematic view of a collar stitching process of the present invention;

fig. 8 is a schematic diagram of the appearance effect of the disc buckle and the clothes.

Detailed Description

The technical solutions of the present invention will be described clearly and completely with reference to specific embodiments of the present invention, and it should be understood that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

As shown in FIG. 1, a drawing method of an umbrella-shaped female dress tailoring method sets a female body with drawing specification of 16084A. In the method for tailoring the umbrella-shaped suit for women, cloth is folded in half, the circle center of a sector is set as an umbrella center point o, two ends of the folding line are respectively set as a rear umbrella length point a and a front umbrella length point b, a rear side sewing point f, an sleeve length point e, a front side sewing point d and a front clothing length point c are respectively taken on the periphery of a semicircular garment piece, line segments of (of), (oe), (od) and (oc) are all sector radiuses, and &isequally divided into five equal divisions by the point o. The line oa, od, ob, 60 cm is set, and the calculation method is 160-. The arc-shaped connecting points b, c, d, e, f and a form a sector outer ring arc.

The tapered pins are respectively positioned on line segments of, od and ob, a rear underarm point h and a rear side waist point h3 are taken on the line segment of, an front underarm point g and a front side waist point g3 are taken on the line segment od, a front digging point o6 and a front deflection waist point b3 are taken on the line segment ob, the line segment oh & gt 6 & gt 21 cm is obtained, and the calculation method is type (84) × 0.25. The segment hh3 ═ gg3 ═ o6b3 ═ 15.96 cm, and the calculation method is type (84) × 0.19. The line segment h1h3 ═ h3h2 ═ g2g3 ═ g3g1 ═ b2b3 ═ 1.932 cm, and the calculation method is type (84) × 0.023.

A rear right side seam point f1, a rear left side seam point f2, a front right side seam point d1, a front left side seam point d2 and a front deflection side point b1 are taken from a round edge, wherein the right side seam point f1 and the rear left side seam point f2 are respectively positioned at two sides of the rear side seam point f, the front right side seam point d1 and the front left side seam point d2 are respectively positioned at two sides of the front side seam point d, an arc line segment f2f ff1 ff 2d dd 1b 1b cm 1.428 cm, and the calculation method is type (84) × 0.017. The line segments hh1, h1f2, hh2, h2f1 and the arc segment f2ff1 form a tapered pin structure. Line segments gg1, g1d1, gg2, g2d2 and arc segment d1dd2 form another tapered prong structure. The line segments o6b2, b2b1 and the arc segment b1b constitute a half-cone shaped pin (due to the doubling of the cloth during cutting) structure, which is used for cutting the cone shaped pin structure.

A rear collar root point o1, a rear collar middle arc point o2, a rear collar side point o3, a front collar middle arc point o4 and a front collar deep point o5 were respectively taken from oa, of, oe, od and oc, and a line segment oo1 was set to 2.94 cm, and the calculation method was type (84) × 0.035. The line oo2 is 3.612 cm, and is calculated as type (84) × 0.043. The line oo3 is 6.3 cm, and is calculated as type (84) × 0.075. The line oo4 is 9.072 cm, and is calculated as type (84) × 0.108. The line oo5 is 9.828 cm, and is calculated as type (84) × 0.117. The neck opening arcs are respectively connected with the points o1, o2, o3, o4 and o5 by arcs to form the neck opening for cutting the neck opening.

The connecting points o5 and o6 form a line segment, a central point k is taken in the middle of the line segment o5o6, a vertical line segment kk1 of the line segment o5o6 is formed by k, kk1 is 1.428 cm, the calculation method is type (84) × 0.017, and front fly camber is formed by arc connecting points o5, k1 and o6 and used for cutting the front fly camber.

The cutting of the bottom edge fillet of the placket is carried out by setting the line segment cc1 to form an angle of 45 degrees with the line segment oc, setting cc1 to 10.752 cm and calculating the method to be type (84) × 0.128. And (3) connecting the points o5, c1 and d1 by arc segments to form a bottom edge round corner of the placket for cutting the round corner.

As shown in fig. 2 and 3, the umbrella-shaped women dress is cut. The umbrella-shaped woman dress is cut by firstly folding the cloth in half and drawing the structure of the umbrella-shaped woman dress, and then the umbrella-shaped woman dress is cut. The cutting method comprises the following steps: firstly, two toper are inserted in cutting off, secondly the collarband is inserted with half toper, and the tailor of these two steps is all gone on the basis that the cloth is folded into two-layer. Thirdly, cutting the single-layer fan body, wherein only the upper-layer cloth is cut by the single-layer fan body. And fourthly, cutting two collar sheets which have the same structure and are cut on the cloth of the single-layer fan body.

The neck bottom arc mpn is 17.808 cm as an arc formed by the neck opening point o1o2o3o4o5, and the calculation method is type (84) × 0.212. The middle line pq is 3.948 cm, and the calculation method is type (84) × 0.047. The line segment st is positioned at the left third of the line segment mq and is vertical, the line segment rl is positioned at the right third of the line segment pn and is vertical, the line segment st is 2.016 centimeters, and the calculation method is type (84) × 0.024. The bottom edge line of the collar piece is formed by connecting points m, p and n with arcs respectively, and is tightly attached to one side of the semi-cone. The outer opening arc lines of the collar piece are respectively connected with the points m, t, q, l and n by arc lines and are used for cutting the collar piece.

As shown in FIGS. 4 to 8, a method for binding umbrella-shaped female clothes. And performing binding sewing on the neckline, the bent front, the opening front edge and the bottom front edge of the women's dress. The binding is made of bias yarn cloth of the same material, the binding length is matched with the sum of the neckline, the bent front, the open front and the bottom front, the width of the binding is 2.0 cm (/ fixed number), and the binding is made in a binding seam type. The two side seams of the suit-dress adopt flat seam stitches to sew up, sleeve side seams and garment piece side seams. The collar sheet is produced through adhering two layers of collar sheets and making outer collar ring in seam mode. The collar stitching method is to stitch the left and right collars respectively aiming at the left and right front collar points of the garment piece and adopt lock stitch to stitch. The sleeve openings and the bottom edge parts of the garment pieces are manufactured by adopting a binding seam type. The button of the women's dress is manufactured by adopting a disc button process.

Although embodiments of the present invention have been shown and described, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that changes, modifications, substitutions and alterations can be made in these embodiments without departing from the principles and spirit of the invention, the scope of which is defined in the appended claims and their equivalents.

Claims

1. An umbrella-shaped suit-dress tailoring method is characterized by comprising the following steps:

1) cutting umbrella-shaped garment pieces

Folding the cloth in half, taking an umbrella center point o on a folding line, cutting a semicircular garment piece by taking the umbrella center point o as a circle center and the body length as a radius, respectively setting a rear umbrella long point a and a front umbrella long point b at two ends of the folding line, respectively taking a rear side sewing point f, a sleeve long point e, a front side sewing point d and a front garment long point c on the periphery of the semicircular garment piece, and equally dividing line segments of, oe, od, oc and even fan into five equal parts;

2) cutting system of conical pin

taking a rear right side seam point f1, a rear left side seam point f2, a front right side seam point d1, a front left side seam point d2 and a front flap side point b1 on a round edge, wherein the right side seam point f1 and the rear left side seam point f2 are respectively positioned on two sides of the rear side seam point f, the front right side seam point d1 and the front left side seam point d2 are respectively positioned on two sides of the front side seam point d, and the arc lengths of arc line segments f2f, ff1, d2d, dd1 and b1b are as follows: the shape is multiplied by 0.017, and a line segment hh1, h1f2, hh2, h2f1 and an arc line segment f2ff1 form a tapered pin structure; the line segments hh1, h1f2, hh2, h2f1 and the arc line segment f2ff1 form a tapered pin structure, the line segments gg1, g1d1, gg2, g2d2 and the arc line segment d1dd2 form another tapered pin structure, and the line segments o6b2, b2b1 and the arc line segment b1b form a semi-tapered pin structure which is cut respectively;

3) cutting collar

4) cutting of front part

5) cutting system for bottom edge of front placket

6) cutting collar

Cutting two collar pieces on the cut upper cloth A;

7) the half-folded garment piece is opened, is folded in half by taking the straight line of oe as the diameter, the sleeve and the side seam are sewed, and the collar piece is installed.

2. The method for tailoring umbrella-shaped women's dress as claimed in claim 1, wherein the collar piece tailoring is specifically: get collar left point m, collar midpoint p and collar right point n on the upper cloth A that cuts out, the pitch arc mpn matches with the pitch arc that o1o2o3o4o5 constitutes, collar midpoint p is the midpoint of pitch arc mpn, use collar midpoint p to make the perpendicular line of line segment mn and get and collar outside point q, pq length is: the model is multiplied by 0.047, mq and nq are connected, a left collar vertical point s and a right collar vertical point r are respectively taken on the mq and the nq, a line segment st is positioned at the left third of the line segment mq and is vertical, a line segment rl is positioned at the right third of the line segment pn and is vertical, and the lengths of the line segments st and rl are as follows: the model is multiplied by 0.024, m, p and n form the bottom edge line of the collar piece, m, t, q, l and n form the outer opening arc line of the collar piece, and the collar piece is obtained by cutting.

3. The method for tailoring an umbrella-shaped suit-dress as claimed in claim 1, wherein the stitching is specifically: the folded garment piece is opened, the folded garment piece is folded in half by taking the line of oe as the diameter, the edge gg2d2 and the edge hh2f1 are sewn to form a sleeve, and the edge gg1d1 and the edge hh1f2 are sewn to form a side seam;