CN112210867A - Color woven silk vinegar colorful check fabric and preparation process thereof - Google Patents
Color woven silk vinegar colorful check fabric and preparation process thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN112210867A CN112210867A CN202011003410.3A CN202011003410A CN112210867A CN 112210867 A CN112210867 A CN 112210867A CN 202011003410 A CN202011003410 A CN 202011003410A CN 112210867 A CN112210867 A CN 112210867A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D9/00—Open-work fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
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- D10B2211/04—Silk
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Abstract
The invention relates to the technical field of fiber fabrics, and relates to a yarn-dyed silk vinegar colorful check fabric which is formed by interweaving two kinds of dyed warp yarns and one kind of dyed weft yarn, wherein one kind of dyed warp yarn is 8 dyed 20/22D real silk yarns, the other kind of dyed warp yarn is 150D dyed acetic acid yarns, and the weft yarn is 6 dyed 20/22D real silk yarns, and the preparation process of the yarn-dyed silk vinegar colorful check fabric comprises the following steps: step one, preparing a first warp; step two, preparation of diethyl ether; step three, preparing weft yarns; step four, reeding process; step five, drafting; and step six, refining process. The invention achieves the purpose of weaving the silk and vinegar fabrics by simultaneously using the real silk color yarns and the acetic acid color yarns as the warps and interweaving the real silk color yarns and the full real silk color yarns with the wefts, and ensures that the color stripes are obvious and the brightness is good, the through hole tissues do not slide or crack, and the fabrics have bright twill and hazy through hole styles.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of fiber fabrics, in particular to a yarn-dyed silk and vinegar colorful check fabric and a preparation process thereof.
Background
The acetate fiber is most similar to real silk in all chemical fibers, and the acetate fiber fabric has good elasticity, no wrinkle, good dimensional stability and excellent dyeing performance. However, the acetate fibers in the current market are generally subjected to post dyeing, but are rarely dyed and then interwoven with other fibers for weaving, and a real silk interwoven fabric which is formed by simultaneously dyeing real silk and acetate fiber dyed yarns as warp yarns is not available, so that the real silk and the acetate fibers are simultaneously used as warp yarns to weave with great difficulty.
And after the real silk and the acetate fiber are simultaneously used as warp yarns for weaving, the product not only has the characteristics of comfort, skin friendliness, soft luster, bright color, nobility and elegance of a colored woven real silk product, but also has drapability and air permeability, the limit of the performance makes the preparation process harder, the raw material cost of the fabric is increased, and therefore all the performances cannot meet the requirements after the production, and the acetate fiber is much cheaper than the real silk, so that the cost can be greatly reduced, and the price of the product can be accepted by most white-collar consumers.
Disclosure of Invention
Technical problem to be solved
Aiming at the defects of the prior art, the invention provides the yarn-dyed silk vinegar colorful checked fabric and the preparation process thereof, so that the purposes that real silk color yarns and acetic acid color yarns are simultaneously used as warps and are interwoven with full real silk color yarns and wefts to be woven into the yarn-dyed silk vinegar fabric are achieved, the fabric is not slipped or cracked at through holes while the color stripes are obvious and the brightness is good, and the fabric presents bright twill and dim through hole styles.
(II) technical scheme
In order to achieve the technical problem, the invention provides a technical scheme that: the utility model provides a colored weaving silk vinegar dazzles various check surface fabric, colored weaving silk vinegar dazzles various check by two kinds of dyeing warp and a dyeing woof interweave and form, and one of them dyeing warp is 8 real silk threads of 20/22D dyeing, and another kind of dyeing warp is 150D dyeing acetic acid lines, and the woof is 6 real silk threads of 20/22D dyeing.
Basic unit structures of the color woven silk vinegar colorful check fabric are 3/3 twill right twill and 3/3 through hole structure composite structures, edge structures are 2/2 warp threads which are heavy and flat, and the color woven silk vinegar colorful check fabric is realized through a drafting method.
Further, there are two kinds of fabrics on the machine warp density: 33/cm and 55/cm.
Further, the weft density on the fabric is 37 pieces/cm.
The invention also provides a technical scheme that: a preparation process of yarn-dyed silk vinegar colorful check fabric comprises the following steps:
step one, preparing a first warp; step two, preparation of diethyl ether; step three, preparing weft yarns; step four, reeding process; step five, drafting; step six, warping process; step seven, weaving;
twisting a real silk raw material to form a single real silk twisted silk, forming double real silk plied yarns through shaping, combining and then reversely twisting, forming real silk twisted yarns through shaping and twisting, and then refining and dyeing to form real silk dyed yarns;
the common refining process method is that a refining solution which is formed by matching 1.2% of soda and 1.8% of sericin refining agent is adopted for refining for 40 minutes at the temperature of 92 ℃, in order to improve the brightness of real silk, the refining solution is formed by matching 1.2% of soda, 1.8% of sericin refining agent and 1% of animal enzyme, the temperature is 56 ℃, the refining time is 40 minutes, and then the refining solution is cleaned by three ways of water at 90 ℃, 80 ℃ and 50 ℃ for refining;
the silk dyed yarns are wound into bobbins, combined and twisted with low twist to form four silk compound yarns, and the four silk compound yarns are warped into warp beams and then woven on a machine;
in the second step, the acetic acid raw material is wound and twisted to form an acetic acid twisted yarn cone, then the acetic acid twisted yarn cone is formed by a loose cone, a dyeable cone is formed by dyeing, and then a warp beam is formed by infrared drying, rewinding and warping and then the warp beam is woven on a machine;
twisting real silk raw materials to form a single real silk twisted silk, forming, combining and then reversely twisting to form two real silk compound yarns, forming and twisting to form real silk twisted yarns, then refining and dyeing to form real silk colored yarns, winding, combining and low twisting the real silk colored yarns to form three real silk compound yarns, and finally rewinding and weaving on a machine;
in the fourth step, the warp density on the fabric is 33/cm and 55/cm, wherein: 3/3 the through hole organization structure is 11 reeds, 3 reeds, the warp density is 33 pieces/cm; 3/3 the twill weave structure is 11# reed, 5 penetrates through the twill weave structure, the warp density is 55 pieces/cm, and the machine weft density of the fabric is 37 pieces/cm;
in the fifth step, 1 st to 6 th heald-through 3/3 perforated twills and 7 th to 12 th heald-through 3/3 right twills are made, wherein beige is 8 dyed true yarns of warp yarns, and navy and red are dyed acetic acid yarns;
the specific drafting rule is as follows:
s1, drawing 15 times of each of 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 for 90, 24 red, 26 rice and 40 navy roots, and penetrating for 5 times;
s2, drafting 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 for 21 times respectively, wherein the total number of the drafting is 126, and the drafting is 3 for 3 times, namely, 3 for red, 3 for rice and white, 3 for navy, 3 for rice and white, and 3 for … for rice and white, and the drafting is carried out for 3 times;
s3, drawing 21 times of each of 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 for a total of 210 husband, 40 husband, 26 beige, 26 red, 26 beige and 40 husband, and penetrating the three times by 5 times;
S4-S39, and repeating the steps of S2 and S3 for 18 times in sequence;
s40, drafting 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 for 21 times respectively, wherein the total number of the drafting is 126, and the drafting is 3 for 3 times, namely, 3 for red, 3 for rice and white, 3 for navy, 3 for rice and white, and 3 for … for rice and white, and the drafting is carried out for 3 times;
s41, drawing 15 times of each of 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12, totally 90, 40 of the husband, 26 of the rice-white and 24 of the red, and penetrating for 5 times;
in the sixth step, because there are two warp yarns and the strength of the acetate fiber is low, it is preferable to strictly control the tension of the warping warp and the tension configuration to be small; secondly, the warping speed cannot be too fast, so that the acetate fibers are prevented from being stretched and losing elasticity during warping, the beaming speed is not too fast, and the beaming speed is controlled at 50 r/min; and thirdly, after warping, the warp beam does not need to be placed for a long time so as to prevent acetic acid from absorbing moisture to influence weaving performance.
And in the seventh step, weaving, namely weaving the warped warp beam on an Italian rapier loom at the speed of 380 r/min.
Further, in step five, the beige color is a dyed true yarn of specification 20/22D, the husband and the red color are dyed acetate yarns of 150D.
Further, in the step one, the refining solution can be prepared by mixing 1% of soda, 1.6% of sericin refining agent and 0.8% of added animal enzyme, the temperature is 52 ℃, the refining time is 40 minutes, and then the refining is carried out by three water washes of 90 ℃, 80 ℃ and 50 ℃.
Further, in the step one, the refining solution can be prepared by mixing 1.4% of soda ash, 2.0% of sericin refining agent and 1.2% of animal enzyme, wherein the temperature is 60 ℃, the refining time is 40 minutes, and then the refining is carried out by three times of water cleaning at 90 ℃, 80 ℃ and 50 ℃.
(III) advantageous effects
The invention provides a yarn-dyed silk vinegar colorful check fabric and a preparation process thereof, and the yarn-dyed silk vinegar colorful check fabric has the following beneficial effects:
1. according to the invention, in the structure process, 3/3 right twill and 3/3 through hole composite structures are innovatively adopted in the basic unit organization structure, the length of the 6 twills is just right, the phenomenon that the brightness is good but is easy to break is avoided, the color strip is obvious and the brightness is good, the through hole structures are not slipped and broken, and the fabric presents bright twill and hazy through hole styles.
2. According to the invention, in the yarn-dyed real silk tatting fabric, real silk color yarns and acetate color yarns are simultaneously taken as warp yarns and are interwoven with full real silk color yarns and weft yarns for the first time to form the yarn-dyed woven silk and vinegar fabric, and the yarns with different colors are matched with the fabric structure by utilizing basic unit weave and a drafting process to form a bright and colorful large-lattice pattern.
3. The invention firstly dyes the yarn or filament, and then uses the dyed yarn to weave, so that the woven fabric is the yarn-dyed fabric, and the yarn-dyed fabric is dyed by the grey yarn, and has strong dye permeability, so the dyeing fastness is better.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of a basic unit structure of a color woven silk vinegar colorful check fabric;
fig. 2 is a schematic view of a finished yarn-dyed vinegar colorful check fabric product.
In the figure: a is the warp knuckle and W1 is the first weft yarn.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the drawings in the embodiments of the present invention, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are only a part of the embodiments of the present invention, and not all of the embodiments. All other embodiments, which can be derived by a person skilled in the art from the embodiments given herein without making any creative effort, shall fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
Example one
Referring to fig. 1-2, the present invention provides a technical solution: the utility model provides a colored weaving silk vinegar dazzles various check surface fabric, colored weaving silk vinegar dazzles various check by two kinds of dyeing warp and a dyeing woof interweave and form, and one of them dyeing warp is 8 real silk threads of 20/22D dyeing, and another kind of dyeing warp is 150D dyeing acetic acid lines, and the woof is 6 real silk threads of 20/22D dyeing.
The basic unit tissue of the color woven silk vinegar colorful check fabric is 3/3 twill right twill and 3/3 through hole tissue composite tissue, the edge tissue is 2/2 warp weight, the color woven silk vinegar colorful check fabric is realized through a drafting method, and the warp on the fabric is dense and has two types: 33 pieces/cm and 55 pieces/cm, and the weft density on the fabric is 37 pieces/cm.
A preparation process of yarn-dyed silk vinegar colorful check fabric comprises the following steps:
step one, preparing a first warp; step two, preparation of diethyl ether; step three, preparing weft yarns; step four, reeding process; step five, drafting; step six, warping process; step seven, weaving;
twisting a real silk raw material to form a single real silk twisted silk, forming double real silk plied yarns through shaping, combining and then reversely twisting, forming real silk twisted yarns through shaping and twisting, and then refining and dyeing to form real silk dyed yarns;
the common refining process method is that a refining solution which is formed by matching 1.2% of soda and 1.8% of sericin refining agent is adopted for refining for 40 minutes at the temperature of 92 ℃, in order to improve the brightness of real silk, the refining solution is formed by matching 1.2% of soda, 1.8% of sericin refining agent and 1% of animal enzyme, the temperature is 56 ℃, the refining time is 40 minutes, and then the refining solution is cleaned by three ways of water at 90 ℃, 80 ℃ and 50 ℃ for refining;
the silk dyed yarns are wound into bobbins, combined and twisted with low twist to form four silk compound yarns, and the four silk compound yarns are warped into warp beams and then woven on a machine;
in the second step, the acetic acid raw material is wound and twisted to form an acetic acid twisted yarn cone, then the acetic acid twisted yarn cone is formed by a loose cone, a dyeable cone is formed by dyeing, and then a warp beam is formed by infrared drying, rewinding and warping and then the warp beam is woven on a machine;
twisting real silk raw materials to form a single real silk twisted silk, forming, combining and then reversely twisting to form two real silk compound yarns, forming and twisting to form real silk twisted yarns, then refining and dyeing to form real silk colored yarns, winding, combining and low twisting the real silk colored yarns to form three real silk compound yarns, and finally rewinding and weaving on a machine;
in the fourth step, the warp density on the fabric is 33/cm and 55/cm, wherein: 3/3 the through hole organization structure is 11 reeds, 3 reeds, the warp density is 33 pieces/cm; 3/3 the twill weave structure is 11# reed, 5 penetrates through the twill weave structure, the warp density is 55 pieces/cm, and the machine weft density of the fabric is 37 pieces/cm;
in the fifth step, 1 st to 6 th heald-through 3/3 perforated twills and 7 th to 12 th heald-through 3/3 right twills are made, wherein beige is 8 dyed true silk threads of warp yarns, navy and red are dyed acetic acid threads, beige is a dyed true silk thread with the specification of 20/22D, and navy and red are dyed acetic acid threads with the specification of 150D;
the specific drafting rule is as follows:
s1, drawing 15 times of each of 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 for 90, 24 red, 26 rice and 40 navy roots, and penetrating for 5 times;
s2, drafting 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 for 21 times respectively, wherein the total number of the drafting is 126, and the drafting is 3 for 3 times, namely, 3 for red, 3 for rice and white, 3 for navy, 3 for rice and white, and 3 for … for rice and white, and the drafting is carried out for 3 times;
s3, drawing 21 times of each of 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 for a total of 210 husband, 40 husband, 26 beige, 26 red, 26 beige and 40 husband, and penetrating the three times by 5 times;
S4-S39, and repeating the steps of S2 and S3 for 18 times in sequence;
s40, drafting 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 for 21 times respectively, wherein the total number of the drafting is 126, and the drafting is 3 for 3 times, namely, 3 for red, 3 for rice and white, 3 for navy, 3 for rice and white, and 3 for … for rice and white, and the drafting is carried out for 3 times;
s41, drawing 15 times of each of 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12, totally 90, 40 of the husband, 26 of the rice-white and 24 of the red, and penetrating for 5 times;
in the sixth step, because there are two warp yarns and the strength of the acetate fiber is low, it is preferable to strictly control the tension of the warping warp and the tension configuration to be small; secondly, the warping speed cannot be too fast, so that the acetate fibers are prevented from being stretched and losing elasticity during warping, the beaming speed is not too fast, and the beaming speed is controlled at 50 r/min; and thirdly, after warping, the warp beam does not need to be placed for a long time so as to prevent acetic acid from absorbing moisture to influence weaving performance.
And in the seventh step, weaving, namely weaving the warped warp beam on an Italian rapier loom at the speed of 380 r/min.
Example two
Referring to fig. 1-2, the present invention provides a technical solution: the utility model provides a colored weaving silk vinegar dazzles various check surface fabric, colored weaving silk vinegar dazzles various check by two kinds of dyeing warp and a dyeing woof interweave and form, and one of them dyeing warp is 8 real silk threads of 20/22D dyeing, and another kind of dyeing warp is 150D dyeing acetic acid lines, and the woof is 6 real silk threads of 20/22D dyeing.
The basic unit tissue of the color woven silk vinegar colorful check fabric is 3/3 twill right twill and 3/3 through hole tissue composite tissue, the edge tissue is 2/2 warp weight, the color woven silk vinegar colorful check fabric is realized through a drafting method, and the warp on the fabric is dense and has two types: 33 pieces/cm and 55 pieces/cm, and the weft density on the fabric is 37 pieces/cm.
A preparation process of yarn-dyed silk vinegar colorful check fabric comprises the following steps:
step one, preparing a first warp; step two, preparation of diethyl ether; step three, preparing weft yarns; step four, reeding process; step five, drafting; step six, warping process; step seven, weaving;
twisting a real silk raw material to form a single real silk twisted silk, forming double real silk plied yarns through shaping, combining and then reversely twisting, forming real silk twisted yarns through shaping and twisting, and then refining and dyeing to form real silk dyed yarns;
the refining solution is prepared by mixing 1% of soda, 1.6% of sericin refining agent and 0.8% of added animal enzyme, the temperature is 52 ℃, the refining time is 40 minutes, and then the refining is carried out by cleaning with three water of 90 ℃, 80 ℃ and 50 ℃;
the silk dyed yarns are wound into bobbins, combined and twisted with low twist to form four silk compound yarns, and the four silk compound yarns are warped into warp beams and then woven on a machine;
in the second step, the acetic acid raw material is wound and twisted to form an acetic acid twisted yarn cone, then the acetic acid twisted yarn cone is formed by a loose cone, a dyeable cone is formed by dyeing, and then a warp beam is formed by infrared drying, rewinding and warping and then the warp beam is woven on a machine;
twisting real silk raw materials to form a single real silk twisted silk, forming, combining and then reversely twisting to form two real silk compound yarns, forming and twisting to form real silk twisted yarns, then refining and dyeing to form real silk colored yarns, winding, combining and low twisting the real silk colored yarns to form three real silk compound yarns, and finally rewinding and weaving on a machine;
in the fourth step, the warp density on the fabric is 33/cm and 55/cm, wherein: 3/3 the through hole organization structure is 11 reeds, 3 reeds, the warp density is 33 pieces/cm; 3/3 the twill weave structure is 11# reed, 5 penetrates through the twill weave structure, the warp density is 55 pieces/cm, and the machine weft density of the fabric is 37 pieces/cm;
in the fifth step, 1 st to 6 th heald-through 3/3 perforated twills and 7 th to 12 th heald-through 3/3 right twills are made, wherein beige is 8 dyed true silk threads of warp yarns, navy and red are dyed acetic acid threads, beige is a dyed true silk thread with the specification of 20/22D, and navy and red are dyed acetic acid threads with the specification of 150D;
the specific drafting rule is as follows:
s1, drawing 15 times of each of 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 for 90, 24 red, 26 rice and 40 navy roots, and penetrating for 5 times;
s2, drafting 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 for 21 times respectively, wherein the total number of the drafting is 126, and the drafting is 3 for 3 times, namely, 3 for red, 3 for rice and white, 3 for navy, 3 for rice and white, and 3 for … for rice and white, and the drafting is carried out for 3 times;
s3, drawing 21 times of each of 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 for a total of 210 husband, 40 husband, 26 beige, 26 red, 26 beige and 40 husband, and penetrating the three times by 5 times;
S4-S39, and repeating the steps of S2 and S3 for 18 times in sequence;
s40, drafting 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 for 21 times respectively, wherein the total number of the drafting is 126, and the drafting is 3 for 3 times, namely, 3 for red, 3 for rice and white, 3 for navy, 3 for rice and white, and 3 for … for rice and white, and the drafting is carried out for 3 times;
s41, drawing 15 times of each of 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12, totally 90, 40 of the husband, 26 of the rice-white and 24 of the red, and penetrating for 5 times;
in the sixth step, because there are two warp yarns and the strength of the acetate fiber is low, it is preferable to strictly control the tension of the warping warp and the tension configuration to be small; secondly, the warping speed cannot be too fast, so that the acetate fibers are prevented from being stretched and losing elasticity during warping, the beaming speed is not too fast, and the beaming speed is controlled at 50 r/min; and thirdly, after warping, the warp beam does not need to be placed for a long time so as to prevent acetic acid from absorbing moisture to influence weaving performance.
And in the seventh step, weaving, namely weaving the warped warp beam on an Italian rapier loom at the speed of 380 r/min.
EXAMPLE III
Referring to fig. 1-2, the present invention provides a technical solution: the utility model provides a colored weaving silk vinegar dazzles various check surface fabric, colored weaving silk vinegar dazzles various check by two kinds of dyeing warp and a dyeing woof interweave and form, and one of them dyeing warp is 8 real silk threads of 20/22D dyeing, and another kind of dyeing warp is 150D dyeing acetic acid lines, and the woof is 6 real silk threads of 20/22D dyeing.
The basic unit tissue of the color woven silk vinegar colorful check fabric is 3/3 twill right twill and 3/3 through hole tissue composite tissue, the edge tissue is 2/2 warp weight, the color woven silk vinegar colorful check fabric is realized through a drafting method, and the warp on the fabric is dense and has two types: 33 pieces/cm and 55 pieces/cm, and the weft density on the fabric is 37 pieces/cm.
A preparation process of yarn-dyed silk vinegar colorful check fabric comprises the following steps:
step one, preparing a first warp; step two, preparation of diethyl ether; step three, preparing weft yarns; step four, reeding process; step five, drafting; step six, warping process; step seven, weaving;
twisting a real silk raw material to form a single real silk twisted silk, forming double real silk plied yarns through shaping, combining and then reversely twisting, forming real silk twisted yarns through shaping and twisting, and then refining and dyeing to form real silk dyed yarns;
the refining solution is prepared by mixing 1.4% of sodium carbonate, 2.0% of sericin refining agent and 1.2% of added animal enzyme, the temperature is 60 ℃, the refining time is 40 minutes, and then the refining is carried out by cleaning with water at three temperatures of 90 ℃, 80 ℃ and 50 ℃;
the silk dyed yarns are wound into bobbins, combined and twisted with low twist to form four silk compound yarns, and the four silk compound yarns are warped into warp beams and then woven on a machine;
in the second step, the acetic acid raw material is wound and twisted to form an acetic acid twisted yarn cone, then the acetic acid twisted yarn cone is formed by a loose cone, a dyeable cone is formed by dyeing, and then a warp beam is formed by infrared drying, rewinding and warping and then the warp beam is woven on a machine;
twisting real silk raw materials to form a single real silk twisted silk, forming, combining and then reversely twisting to form two real silk compound yarns, forming and twisting to form real silk twisted yarns, then refining and dyeing to form real silk colored yarns, winding, combining and low twisting the real silk colored yarns to form three real silk compound yarns, and finally rewinding and weaving on a machine;
in the fourth step, the warp density on the fabric is 33/cm and 55/cm, wherein: 3/3 the through hole organization structure is 11 reeds, 3 reeds, the warp density is 33 pieces/cm; 3/3 the twill weave structure is 11# reed, 5 penetrates through the twill weave structure, the warp density is 55 pieces/cm, and the machine weft density of the fabric is 37 pieces/cm;
in the fifth step, 1 st to 6 th heald-through 3/3 perforated twills and 7 th to 12 th heald-through 3/3 right twills are made, wherein beige is 8 dyed true silk threads of warp yarns, navy and red are dyed acetic acid threads, beige is a dyed true silk thread with the specification of 20/22D, and navy and red are dyed acetic acid threads with the specification of 150D;
the specific drafting rule is as follows:
s1, drawing 15 times of each of 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 for 90, 24 red, 26 rice and 40 navy roots, and penetrating for 5 times;
s2, drafting 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 for 21 times respectively, wherein the total number of the drafting is 126, and the drafting is 3 for 3 times, namely, 3 for red, 3 for rice and white, 3 for navy, 3 for rice and white, and 3 for … for rice and white, and the drafting is carried out for 3 times;
s3, drawing 21 times of each of 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 for a total of 210 husband, 40 husband, 26 beige, 26 red, 26 beige and 40 husband, and penetrating the three times by 5 times;
S4-S39, and repeating the steps of S2 and S3 for 18 times in sequence;
s40, drafting 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 for 21 times respectively, wherein the total number of the drafting is 126, and the drafting is 3 for 3 times, namely, 3 for red, 3 for rice and white, 3 for navy, 3 for rice and white, and 3 for … for rice and white, and the drafting is carried out for 3 times;
s41, drawing 15 times of each of 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12, totally 90, 40 of the husband, 26 of the rice-white and 24 of the red, and penetrating for 5 times;
in the sixth step, because there are two warp yarns and the strength of the acetate fiber is low, it is preferable to strictly control the tension of the warping warp and the tension configuration to be small; secondly, the warping speed cannot be too fast, so that the acetate fibers are prevented from being stretched and losing elasticity during warping, the beaming speed is not too fast, and the beaming speed is controlled at 50 r/min; and thirdly, after warping, the warp beam does not need to be placed for a long time so as to prevent acetic acid from absorbing moisture to influence weaving performance.
And in the seventh step, weaving, namely weaving the warped warp beam on an Italian rapier loom at the speed of 380 r/min.
Examples of the experiments
The yarn-dyed silk vinegar colorful check fabric prepared in the first embodiment, the second embodiment and the third embodiment is compared, wherein the yarn gloss of the yarn-dyed silk vinegar colorful check fabric prepared in the first embodiment is particularly good, and the yarn is better than that of the first embodiment and the second embodiment.
The yarn-dyed silk vinegar colorful check fabric prepared in the first embodiment, the second embodiment and the third embodiment is subjected to various performance tests, wherein various performances of the first embodiment are better than those of the first embodiment and the second embodiment, and the product has the characteristics of comfort, skin friendliness, soft luster, bright color, high price and elegance of a yarn-dyed silk product, has draping feeling and air permeability, can greatly reduce the cost, and can be accepted by most white-collar consumers.
The invention has the beneficial effects that: according to the invention, in the structure process, 3/3 right twill and 3/3 through hole composite structures are innovatively adopted in the basic unit organization structure, the length of the 6 twills is just right, the phenomenon that the brightness is good but is easy to break is avoided, the color strip is obvious and the brightness is good, the through hole structures are not slipped and broken, and the fabric presents bright twill and hazy through hole styles.
According to the invention, in the yarn-dyed real silk tatting fabric, real silk color yarns and acetate color yarns are simultaneously taken as warp yarns and are interwoven with full real silk color yarns and weft yarns for the first time to form the yarn-dyed woven silk and vinegar fabric, and the yarns with different colors are matched with the fabric structure by utilizing basic unit weave and a drafting process to form a bright and colorful large-lattice pattern.
The invention firstly dyes the yarn or filament, and then uses the dyed yarn to weave, so that the woven fabric is the yarn-dyed fabric, and the yarn-dyed fabric is dyed by the grey yarn, and has strong dye permeability, so the dyeing fastness is better.
It should be noted that, in this document, the terms "comprises," "comprising," or any other variation thereof, are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion, such that a process, method, article, or apparatus that comprises a list of elements does not include only those elements but may include other elements not expressly listed or inherent to such process, method, article, or apparatus.
Although embodiments of the present invention have been shown and described, it will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that changes, modifications, substitutions and alterations can be made in these embodiments without departing from the principles and spirit of the invention, the scope of which is defined in the appended claims and their equivalents.
Claims (8)
1. The utility model provides a various check line surface fabric is dazzled to yarn dyed silk vinegar which characterized in that: the dyed silk vinegar colorful check is formed by interweaving two kinds of dyed warp yarns and one kind of dyed weft yarn, wherein one kind of dyed warp yarn is 8 dyed 20/22D real silk yarns, the other kind of dyed warp yarn is 150D dyed acetate yarns, and the weft yarn is 6 dyed 20/22D real silk yarns;
basic unit structures of the color woven silk vinegar colorful check fabric are 3/3 twill right twill and 3/3 through hole structure composite structures, edge structures are 2/2 warp threads which are heavy and flat, and the color woven silk vinegar colorful check fabric is realized through a drafting method.
2. The yarn-dyed silk vinegar colorful check fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the warp density on the fabric is two types: 33/cm and 55/cm.
3. The yarn-dyed silk vinegar colorful check fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the weft density of the fabric on the machine is 37 pieces/cm.
4. The preparation process of the color-woven silk and vinegar dazzling colorful check fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps of:
step one, preparing a first warp; step two, preparation of diethyl ether; step three, preparing weft yarns; step four, reeding process; step five, drafting; step six, warping process; step seven, weaving;
twisting a real silk raw material to form a single real silk twisted silk, forming double real silk plied yarns through shaping, combining and then reversely twisting, forming real silk twisted yarns through shaping and twisting, and then refining and dyeing to form real silk dyed yarns;
the common refining process method is that a refining solution which is formed by matching 1.2% of soda and 1.8% of sericin refining agent is adopted for refining for 40 minutes at the temperature of 92 ℃, in order to improve the brightness of real silk, the refining solution is formed by matching 1.2% of soda, 1.8% of sericin refining agent and 1% of animal enzyme, the temperature is 56 ℃, the refining time is 40 minutes, and then the refining solution is cleaned by three ways of water at 90 ℃, 80 ℃ and 50 ℃ for refining;
the silk dyed yarns are wound into bobbins, combined and twisted with low twist to form four silk compound yarns, and the four silk compound yarns are warped into warp beams and then woven on a machine;
in the second step, the acetic acid raw material is wound and twisted to form an acetic acid twisted yarn cone, then the acetic acid twisted yarn cone is formed by a loose cone, a dyeable cone is formed by dyeing, and then a warp beam is formed by infrared drying, rewinding and warping and then the warp beam is woven on a machine;
twisting real silk raw materials to form a single real silk twisted silk, forming, combining and then reversely twisting to form two real silk compound yarns, forming and twisting to form real silk twisted yarns, then refining and dyeing to form real silk colored yarns, winding, combining and low twisting the real silk colored yarns to form three real silk compound yarns, and finally rewinding and weaving on a machine;
in the fourth step, the warp density on the fabric is 33/cm and 55/cm, wherein: 3/3 the through hole organization structure is 11 reeds, 3 reeds, the warp density is 33 pieces/cm; 3/3 the twill weave structure is 11# reed, 5 penetrates through the twill weave structure, the warp density is 55 pieces/cm, and the machine weft density of the fabric is 37 pieces/cm;
in the fifth step, 1 st to 6 th heald-through 3/3 perforated twills and 7 th to 12 th heald-through 3/3 right twills are made, wherein beige is 8 dyed true yarns of warp yarns, and navy and red are dyed acetic acid yarns;
the specific drafting rule is as follows:
s1, drawing 15 times of each of 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 for 90, 24 red, 26 rice and 40 navy roots, and penetrating for 5 times;
s2, drafting 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 for 21 times respectively, wherein the total number of the drafting is 126, and the drafting is 3 for 3 times, namely, 3 for red, 3 for rice and white, 3 for navy, 3 for rice and white, and 3 for … for rice and white, and the drafting is carried out for 3 times;
s3, drawing 21 times of each of 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 for a total of 210 husband, 40 husband, 26 beige, 26 red, 26 beige and 40 husband, and penetrating the three times by 5 times;
S4-S39, and repeating the steps of S2 and S3 for 18 times in sequence;
s40, drafting 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 for 21 times respectively, wherein the total number of the drafting is 126, and the drafting is 3 for 3 times, namely, 3 for red, 3 for rice and white, 3 for navy, 3 for rice and white, and 3 for … for rice and white, and the drafting is carried out for 3 times;
s41, drawing 15 times of each of 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12, totally 90, 40 of the husband, 26 of the rice-white and 24 of the red, and penetrating for 5 times;
in the sixth step, because there are two warp yarns and the strength of the acetate fiber is low, it is preferable to strictly control the tension of the warping warp and the tension configuration to be small; secondly, the warping speed cannot be too fast, so that the acetate fibers are prevented from being stretched and losing elasticity during warping, the beaming speed is not too fast, and the beaming speed is controlled at 50 r/min; and thirdly, after warping, the warp beam does not need to be placed for a long time so as to prevent acetic acid from absorbing moisture to influence weaving performance.
5. And in the seventh step, weaving, namely weaving the warped warp beam on an Italian rapier loom at the speed of 380 r/min.
6. The preparation process of the yarn-dyed silk vinegar colorful check fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that: in step five, the beige color is a dyed true yarn of specification 20/22D, and the navy and red are 150D dyed acetate yarns.
7. The preparation process of the yarn-dyed silk vinegar colorful check fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that: in the first step, the refining solution can be prepared by mixing 1% of sodium carbonate, 1.6% of sericin refining agent and 0.8% of added animal enzyme, the temperature is 52 ℃, the refining time is 40 minutes, and then the refining is carried out by cleaning with water at three temperatures of 90 ℃, 80 ℃ and 50 ℃.
8. The preparation process of the yarn-dyed silk vinegar colorful check fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that: in the first step, the refining solution can be prepared by mixing 1.4% of sodium carbonate, 2.0% of sericin refining agent and 1.2% of added animal enzyme, the temperature is 60 ℃, the refining time is 40 minutes, and then the refining is carried out by washing with water at three temperatures of 90 ℃, 80 ℃ and 50 ℃.
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Application publication date: 20210112 |