JPH07173732A - Crimped silk filaments, silk knitted fabrics and production thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide silk yarns for knitted fabrics and knitted fabrics therefrom which has light and flimsy touch because the fabric has the gloss and touch of silk fabrics with a number of fine and stabilized pores or voids and high crimpabillty and bulkiness as knitted fabrics. CONSTITUTION:Silk yarns or silk knitted fabrics having twisting fixed where cellulosic yarns which have been allowed to twist in union disappear and spaces remain there instead of the cellulosic yarns. The process where twisted union yarns from silk yarns and cellulosic yarns are heat-treated to fix the twisting is combined with the process where an enzyme is allowed to react with the heat-treated yarns to dissolve the cellulosic yarns to form stabilized spaces within the yarns to give crimped silk yarns having fixed twistings, removing the cellulosic yarns twisted in union with the silk yarns to remain spaces after the cellulosic yarns are removed.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to a bulky and crimpable yarn for knitting fabric, that is, a crimpable silk yarn, a crimpable silk knitted fabric, and a silk yarn having characteristics as a knit raw yarn and a handicraft yarn. Regarding their manufacturing method.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Recently, the proportion of knit products in clothing has been increasing from the viewpoints of fit when worn and high productivity during knitting. So not only wool and acrylic fiber,
Various fibers have come to be processed as knit fibers. Unlike other fiber raw materials, raw silk and silk thread do not have a natural crimping property, so they are small in volume and poor in stretchability. Knit products made from silk yarn are based on the lightness and crimpability peculiar to knit products. There was a lack of fit and this property reduced silk consumption.

As a method for imparting crimpability to a silk thread, a raw thread is subjected to a strong twist, a wet drawing treatment and a scouring dyeing are performed in JP-A-59-157337, and the swirling of the strong twist is heat-set by the wet heat. Then, a method for untwisting is disclosed. Since this method performs strong twisting and then untwisting, the individual voids imparted to the silk yarn are relatively large, and these voids are easily crushed by compression, and combined with the weight of the silk yarn itself gives a fluffy feeling as a knit raw yarn. It was insufficient.

[0004]

It is very difficult to impart crimpability to a silk thread which is originally smooth and supple and has no crimpability by providing a large number of fine and stable voids. There are some knit products made of silk, but they do not meet the requirements as knit products, and a silk knit raw yarn having a large number of fine and stable voids and a silk having sufficient crimpability. A knitted fabric was required.

[0005]

An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems, and the constitution thereof is a silk thread or a silk knitted fabric having a fixed twist, and a cellulosic thread which has been twisted with the silk thread. Disappears, and voids remain after the presence of the cellulosic yarn. In order to produce such silk yarn or silk knitted fabric, wet twisting is performed on the twisted yarn of the silk yarn and the cellulosic yarn. By combining the process of fixing the twist with the process of dissolving the cellulosic yarn by applying an enzyme, it is possible to form voids in the yarn itself or to produce a knitted fabric made of silk yarn having many fine voids. Characterize.

The silk thread in the present invention is a concept including both so-called raw silk in which sericin is attached around fibroin and so-called silk silk in which sericin is removed by scouring. The thickness thereof is not particularly limited, but 21 medium having 21 denier as the center and 27 medium having 27 denier as the center are generally available. Generally, when thin silk threads are used, the voids that are generated are small, and a large number of stable voids can be provided, but in consideration of work efficiency, 14 to 2
00, preferably 20-100.

As a cellulosic yarn which is twisted with a silk yarn,
Although cotton and linen can be used, semi-synthetic fibers such as rayon yarn (viscose silk), copper ammonia human silk (Bemberg or cupra), and acetate fiber amateur silk (acetate) are once dissolved and then spun. Alternatively, cellulosic fibers called regenerated fibers are preferably used. The thickness is generally about the same as that of silk thread, but the denier of the cellulosic fiber may be 1/2 to 1/3 or 2 to 3 times that of silk thread depending on the application.

In the present invention, a cellulosic yarn and a silk yarn are twisted together. The twist is generally called a strong twist and is 1,000 to 4,000 times, preferably 1,500 to 3,000 times per 1 m, although it depends on the thickness of the yarn. This twisted yarn is heat-moisture treated to fix the swirling of the silk yarn. If the treatment temperature is 60 ° C. or higher, the fibroin is thermally denatured and the swirl is fixed. After the wet heat treatment, the cellulosic yarn is dissolved and removed by the method described below, but the wet heat treatment may be performed after the dissolution of the cellulose yarn.

The cellulosic yarn is dissolved and removed by an enzyme. Examples of the enzyme include cellulase, hemicellulase, pectinase and the like. Commercially available enzymes can be used as these enzymes. For example, Cell Crust 1. manufactured by Novo Nordisk Bio Industry Co., Ltd.
5L, Godo Shusei Co., Ltd., GODO-TCL, etc. can be mentioned. Enzymatic treatment is performed in a slightly acidic region,
Depending on the type of enzyme and cellulosic yarn,
40-65 degreeC and pH 3.5-6.0. It is preferable to dissolve all of the cellulosic yarns by the enzyme treatment, but this is not always necessary, and even if some cellulosic yarns remain, if stable microvoids are formed in the fiber mainly composed of silk. The objects of the invention are achieved. On the other hand, some residual cellulose fibers have an advantage that uneven dyeing occurs due to the difference in dyeability between silk thread and cellulose, and a deep color is imparted by dyeing.

Furthermore, chitin-based yarns such as chitosan may be used as the yarns which are twisted with the silk yarn. in this case,
Examples of the enzyme include chitinase, chitobiase, chitosanase and the like.

After twisting the silk yarn and the other yarn, a stretching treatment may be performed before or after fixing the twisting of the strong twist by wet heat treatment. The draw ratio is 5 to 40%, preferably 10
~ 30%. The stretching is preferably wet stretching.

The knitting yarn obtained by the method of the present invention can be used as it is for knitting, but it is preferable to use a plurality of knitted yarns by twisting them. In addition, it is possible to manufacture a knitting yarn having a further increased crimpability by repeating the sweet twist of the thin knitting yarn a plurality of times.

Further, it is also possible to form a knitted fabric without fixing the twist after cross-twisting with the cellulosic yarn, and then fix the twist and dissolve the cellulosic material by enzyme treatment. In addition, after the silk thread is strongly twisted with the cellulosic thread, a knitted fabric is formed, the cellulosic thread is dissolved by an enzyme treatment, and a trace of the cellulosic thread is present until the end even if no means for fixing the twist is taken. A void remains at the end and a crimpable knitted fabric is obtained.

[0014]

According to the present invention, the silk yarn and the yarn made of another material are strongly twisted together, the turning of the silk yarn due to the strong twist is fixed, and then the yarn made of another material is dissolved and removed. As a result, voids remain in the traces of the dissolution of yarns made of other materials, and the voids are stable because the swirling of the silk yarns due to strong twisting is fixed, and the remaining silk yarns are sufficient as knit raw yarns. Provides crimpability. The obtained silk yarn for knitting is as bulky as is not expected from the conventional concept of silk, has a low apparent specific gravity, and has a light and fluffy feel while maintaining the luster peculiar to silk. Therefore, the knitted fabric obtained using this silk thread is also crimpable, and the present invention makes it possible to obtain a silk knit product having sufficient crimpability.

[0015]

Example 1 A 27-denier raw yarn and a 14-denier viscose rayon yarn were combined, and after 2,500 twists per 1 m, 7
Moisture treatment was performed at 0 ° C. to fix the twist of the raw silk. Then
A commercially available cellulase (Godo Shusei Co., Ltd. GO
DO-TCL) in 1% solution, 50-60 ° C
Most of the viscose rayon was dissolved by leaving it for 12 hours. Then, when thoroughly washed and refined, a silk yarn having a bulky crimp property having the luster of the silk yarn is obtained,
It could be used as an excellent knit raw yarn.

Example 2 A 14-denier refined silk thread and a 20-denier viscose rayon thread were combined and subjected to 2000 times of strong twisting per 1 m, followed by heat treatment at 80 ° C. for moist heat to fix the twisting of the silk thread. Then, the twisted yarn is dipped in a cellulase solution to give 50-6
Most of the viscose rayon was dissolved by leaving it at 0 ° C. for 20 hours. Then, after thorough washing, a silk yarn having a bulky crimp property having the luster of the silk yarn was obtained, and it could be used as an excellent knit base yarn. Example 3 27 denier raw yarn and 14 denier viscose rayon yarn were combined, and a knitted yarn was knitted by knitting using a twisted yarn twisted 2500 times per 1 m, and twisted with a wet heat treatment at 70 ° C. Fixed. Next, this twisted yarn was immersed in a 1% solution of cellulase used in Example 1 and subjected to an enzyme treatment at 50 to 60 ° C. for 12 hours to elute most viscose rayon. Next, when washing and refining were performed, it was possible to obtain a silk knit product which was highly stretchable, bulky, and had a luster peculiar to silk. By leaving a little viscose rayon in this silk knit, the strength of the knitted fabric was increased and the texture by dyeing was improved as compared with the case where only silk yarn was used.

[0017]

Industrial Applicability According to the present invention, a silk yarn having a large number of fine and stable voids, which has never been obtained before, can be obtained, and at the same time, the crimpability and bulkiness as a knit product can be obtained while maintaining the luster and feel of the silk product. , And a silk yarn for knit having a fluffy feeling which is a combination of these.

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Claims (5)

[Claims] 1. A silk thread having a fixed twist, wherein the cellulosic thread that has been twisted with the silk thread disappears,
A crimpable silk yarn characterized in that voids remain after the presence of the cellulosic yarn. 2. A cross-twisted yarn of a silk yarn and a cellulosic yarn is heat-treated to fix the twist, and then an enzyme is caused to act to dissolve the cellulosic yarn to form voids in the yarn itself. Crimped silk thread manufacturing method. 3. A silk knitted fabric knitted using twisted silk twisted yarn, wherein the cellulose yarn that has been twisted with the silk yarn disappears due to an enzymatic action, and the cellulose yarn remains A crimpable silk knitted fabric characterized in that voids remain. 4. A knitted fabric is obtained by using a twisted yarn of a silk yarn and a cellulosic yarn, and a cellulose-degrading enzyme is caused to act in the scouring step of the silk knitted fabric to dissolve the cellulosic yarn, resulting in voids between the silk yarns. A method for producing a crimpable silk knitted fabric, which comprises forming 5. A knitted fabric using a twisted yarn of a silk yarn and a cellulosic yarn is heat treated to fix the twist of the silk yarn, and in the next step a cellulolytic enzyme is caused to act to dissolve the cellulosic yarn, and the silk yarn is dissolved A method for producing a crimpable silk knitted fabric, which comprises forming voids.