CN112030329A - Hollow fluffed fabric and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Hollow fluffed fabric and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN112030329A CN112030329A CN202010905116.5A CN202010905116A CN112030329A CN 112030329 A CN112030329 A CN 112030329A CN 202010905116 A CN202010905116 A CN 202010905116A CN 112030329 A CN112030329 A CN 112030329A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/02—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features
- D04B1/04—Pile fabrics or articles having similar surface features characterised by thread material
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
- D04B1/123—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material with laid-in unlooped yarn, e.g. fleece fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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Abstract
The invention provides a hollow fluffed fabric and a preparation method thereof. The hollow fluffed fabric comprises a surface layer, a hollow layer and a bottom layer, wherein the surface layer is connected with the bottom layer through the hollow layer; the bottom layer consists of a first coil and a second coil, and the yarn count of the first coil is lower than that of the second coil; the bottom layer is subjected to a steel needle raising finishing, and in the raising finishing, the first loops are elongated to protrude from the surface of the bottom layer. The first coil in the bottom layer of the hollow fluffing fabric is protruded on the bottom surface, so that the hollow fluffing fabric has the characteristics of easiness in plucking, dense fluffing effect and excellent fluffing effect reproducibility, the polyester yarns of the hollow layer cannot be touched during fluffing, the structure of the hollow layer cannot be damaged, the problem that the traditional knitted air layer tissue is difficult to fluff is solved, the hand feeling is fluffy after washing, the resilience is good, the shape is maintained and the heat is kept, the plain looped fluffing fabric cannot be thinner and thinner as the common plain looped fluffing fabric is washed, and the heat-insulation service life of the fluffing fabric is prolonged.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a hollow fluffed fabric and a preparation method thereof, and belongs to the technical field of textiles.
Background
The traditional knitted fluffing fabric is a plain weave plus looped pile structure, as shown in fig. 1, the looped pile surface is used for catching and fluffing, the structure is required to be woven on a knitted single-side machine provided with a special sinker, the machine type limitation is large, the front surface can only be used for plain weave, and more structure changes cannot be realized. As the autumn and winter warm keeping fabric, the fabric has the advantages of hard and firm hand feeling and lack of elasticity, and the warm keeping effect depends on the thickness of the fluffy layer as shown in figure 8 from the cross section of the fabric. After being washed for many times, the fluffed layer fiber is tangled and pilling, and the heat preservation effect is greatly reduced. The traditional hollow fabric (such as traditional cotton 3X 1 sweater fleece) has a smooth and compact surface, lacks a structure contacting with a fluffing roller, can only be fluffed by the fluffing roller, and has light and thin fluff effect and low aesthetic degree.
CN108893849A discloses the following technical solutions: using conductive fiber yarn, 32s cotton, 75D/36F low stretch yarn and 60/40 cotton polyester 34s as raw materials, and weaving a surface and a lining by using a 38-inch 18-knitted double-sided circular knitting machine; connecting the flour and the lining by using stretch textured yarns to obtain a pre-fabric, and forming an air interlayer between the flour and the lining: filling the air interlayer with filling yarns to obtain the air layer fabric. The hollow grey cloth of the method has a complex manufacturing method, the air layer fabric can be obtained only by filling yarns, the used sanding treatment is to use a sand grinding roller to grind out fibers on the surface of the yarns under the friction action, the hair effect is light, and the hair effect is different from the hair density effect formed by using steel needles on a hair grabbing roller to grab the fibers in the yarns onto the surface of the yarns in the hair treatment, so the fabric has poor heat preservation effect.
CN108547041A discloses the following technical solutions: selecting composite yarns with different shrinkage rates and spandex yarns to weave a blank with an intermediate air layer structure, and performing high-temperature treatment to enable the composite yarns to generate shrinkage difference, so that the surface of a yarn body has a similar 'loop' effect, and napping can be performed. The method limits the selection of yarn types, and the hair catching surface can only be compounded with silk, so the method has large limitation.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the technical problems, the invention aims to provide a hollow fluffed fabric and a preparation method thereof.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention provides a hollow fluffed fabric, wherein the hollow fluffed fabric comprises a surface layer, a hollow layer and a bottom layer, and the surface layer is connected with the bottom layer through the hollow layer; the bottom layer is composed of a first loop and a second loop, the yarn count of the first loop is lower than that of the second loop, the first loop protrudes from the surface of the bottom layer, the bottom layer is subjected to a steel needle raising finishing, and in the raising finishing, the first loop is elongated to protrude from the surface of the bottom layer. The structure of the hollow fabric is shown in fig. 2.
According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, preferably, the bottom surface of the hollow raised fabric is in the form of a towel sheet. The back of a conventional common 3 x 1 sweater fleece is looped by elongated sinker loops formed by sinker loops, as shown in fig. 3. The research of the invention finds that if only vertical-strip-shaped thick coils and vertical-strip-shaped thin coils are formed, the vertical columns of the thin coils can be covered by grabbing wool, so that the wool effect of the fabric is uniform. Compared with the common 3 x 1 sweater fleece, the first loops on the bottom surface of the hollow fluffed fabric are elongated due to the double functions of floating threads and tucking in the weaving process, the elongated loops are more dense, the overlapped areas among the elongated loops are more, and the elongated loops are closely and uniformly distributed on the bottom surface of the grey fabric, so that a uniform and compact towel plane-shaped bottom surface is formed, namely the loops are elongated and closely arranged on the surface, as shown in fig. 4. The uniform and compact towel planar bottom surface enables the bottom surface of the hollow fluffed fabric to have uniform bottom surface hair effect and excellent hair effect reproducibility.
According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, preferably, in the bottom layer, the yarn for forming the first stitch and the yarn for forming the second stitch are formed into a complete course, and the two complete courses form a complete knitting cycle (i.e. the yarn is formed into a complete knitting cycle by four modules), the first stitch and the second stitch are complementarily distributed in the same course, and the first stitch and the second stitch are complementarily distributed in the same wale and have uniform capillary effect.
In the hollow fluffed fabric provided by the invention, the loops of the low yarn count are stretched due to the dual functions of tucking and floating on the same needle to form first loops, and the first loops are protruded on the surface of the bottom layer, so that the wool grabbing roller only contacts with the first loops of the low yarn count during wool grabbing, the first loops are fluffed but not grabbed, the second loops of the high yarn count cannot be grabbed, and the structure of the hollow layer cannot be damaged.
According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, it is preferable that the nozzle distance between the cylinder and the dial during the weaving process is 1.8MM to 2.5 MM.
According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, preferably, the bottom layer is further carded and sheared after the steel needle raising finishing. The research of the invention finds that: for cotton-polyester blended yarns, the common brushing mode cannot brush dense hair effects, and if a special brushing machine capable of adjusting the brush height is adopted, the brush height is controlled to ensure that only large loops are brushed, and under the condition that the small loops are covered by the hairs of the large loops, uniform hair effects can be produced; the bottom layer of the hollow fluffed fabric is designed in a structure, so that the large coils protrude out of the surface of the bottom surface, and the bottom surface of the grey cloth forms a uniform and compact towel surface-shaped effect. Moreover, after the steel needle is subjected to the fuzzing finishing, the subsequent carding and shearing processes are carried out, so that the obtained hair effect is denser, the hair is not easy to fall off, and the bottom exposure phenomenon (the cloth bottom cannot be covered by the hair in a dense way, or the hair falls off after washing, entangles and is uneven in hair effect and also can expose the bottom) is avoided.
According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, preferably, the hollow layer is made of dacron or nylon, such as: 100% polyester yarn or 100% nylon yarn, but not limited thereto. More preferably, the hollow layer is made of 20-150 denier terylene or nylon, but not limited thereto. When the hollow layer adopts terylene, the hollow fluffed fabric can be called cotton polyester type fluffed fabric.
According to the embodiment of the invention, the hollowness of the fabric and the thickness of the hollow layer can be controlled by controlling the distance between the tube openings and the thickness of the yarn used for the hollow layer.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the surface layer preferably uses cotton yarn or cotton blend, for example: all cotton yarn or cotton blended yarn, but is not limited thereto. More preferably, the surface layer uses 10 to 80 cotton yarn counts, or 10 to 80 cotton wool, cotton polyester and cotton silk blended yarn counts, but not limited thereto.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the bottom layer preferably uses cotton, polyester or blended yarns, such as: cotton yarn, 100% polyester, or blended yarn, but is not limited thereto. More preferably, the yarn used by the first loop is 10-80 cotton count or 10-80 cotton count polyester blended yarn, and the yarn used by the second loop is 20-150 denier polyester yarn or nylon yarn, but not limited thereto.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hollow layer is preferably knitted by tuck.
According to an embodiment of the present invention, preferably, the second coil of the bottom layer covers the tuck of the hollow layer. The tuck of the hollow layer is protected by the second coil with high yarn count, so that the hollow layer can still be kept intact after the wool is grabbed.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the surface layer is preferably a plain weave, a beaded weave or a jacquard weave. Therefore, the condition that the front structure of the plain terry fabric is single can be changed. When the surface layer adopts a bead structure, the surface design can improve the pilling performance of the non-hair-catching surface. The research of the invention finds that: the fluffing and pilling performance of the hollow fluffing fabric is not determined by cotton yarns on the surface, but is determined by whether the polyester yarns of the hollow layer are ground out of the surface. And adopt the pure cotton surface in pearl ground, at first can give the surface texture sense, secondly because unsmooth three-dimensional effect, in the test of pilling and use, the area of contact with abrasive material or other object has become less, and first contact point is the pure cotton, has reduced the risk that the dacron silk was ground out to improve the pilling problem. This is in contrast to the way fuzzing and pilling are usually addressed by making the surface smooth and glossy.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the hollow fluffed fabric, wherein the hollow grey cloth of the hollow fluffed fabric is made by adopting a knitting three-layer structure weaving method, and preferably, the adopted weaving method comprises one of a plain eight-mode weaving method, a plain ten-mode weaving method, a bead ten-mode weaving method and a bead twelve-mode weaving method, but is not limited to the above.
According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, preferably, the method of plain weave eight-mode weaving comprises: the knitting needles of the upper disc and the lower disc are arranged in a staggered manner; the upper disc of the first die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle floating thread, second needle looping and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; the upper disc of the second die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle looping, second needle tucking and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; knitting the hollow layer yarns by the upper and lower disks of the third die in a tucking mode, and tucking the full needles; weaving the yarns of the surface layer by a fourth lower die disc; knitting the yarns of the bottom layer on the upper disc of the fifth die in a mode of first needle looping, second needle floating and needle-by-needle alternation, and knitting the yarns on the lower disc without knitting; the upper disc of the sixth die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle tucking, second needle looping and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; knitting the hollow layer yarns by the upper and lower plates of the seventh mould in a tucking mode, and tucking the needles completely; and weaving the yarns of the surface layer by the lower disc of the eighth die.
According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, preferably, the method of plain weave ten-fold comprises: the upper disc and the lower disc are arranged in a contraposition way; the upper disc of the first die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle floating thread, second needle looping and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; the upper disc of the second die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle looping, second needle tucking and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; knitting the hollow layer yarns by the upper and lower disks of the third die in a tucking mode, and tucking by separating needles; knitting the hollow layer yarns by the upper and lower plates of the fourth die in a tucking mode, and tucking by separating needles; weaving the yarns of the surface layer by a fifth mould lower disc; the upper disc of the sixth die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle looping, second needle floating and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; the upper disc of the seventh mould weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle tucking, second needle looping and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; knitting the hollow layer yarns by the upper and lower disks of the eighth die in a tucking mode, and tucking by separating needles; and the ninth mould upper disc and the ninth mould lower disc weave the hollow layer yarns in a tucking mode, needle separating tucking is carried out, and the tenth mould lower disc weaves the surface layer yarns.
According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, preferably, the method of bead deca-patterning comprises: the knitting needles of the upper disc and the lower disc are arranged in a staggered manner; the upper disc of the first die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle floating thread, second needle looping and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; the upper disc of the second die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle looping, second needle tucking and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; knitting the hollow layer yarns by the upper and lower disks of the third die in a tucking mode, and tucking the full needles; weaving the yarns of the surface layer by a fourth lower die disc; knitting the surface layer yarn by a fifth lower die disc in a first needle looping manner and a second needle tucking manner; the upper disc of the sixth die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle looping, second needle floating and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; the upper disc of the seventh mould weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle tucking, second needle looping and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; knitting the hollow layer yarns by the upper and lower plates of the eighth die in a tucking mode, and tucking the needles completely; weaving the yarns of the surface layer by a ninth die lower disc; and the tenth die knits the yarns of the surface layer by the first needle tucking and the second needle looping.
According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, preferably, the method of the pearlesecondary modelling method comprises: the upper disc and the lower disc are arranged in a contraposition way; the upper disc of the first die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle floating thread, second needle looping and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; the upper disc of the second die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle looping, second needle tucking and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; knitting the hollow layer yarns by the upper and lower disks of the third die in a tucking mode, and tucking by separating needles; knitting the hollow layer yarns by the upper and lower plates of the fourth die in a tucking mode, and tucking by separating needles; weaving the yarns of the surface layer by a fifth mould lower disc; knitting the surface layer yarn by a sixth die lower disc in a first needle looping manner and a second needle tucking manner; the upper disc of the seventh mould weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle looping, second needle floating and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; the upper disc of the eighth die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle tucking, second needle looping and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; knitting the hollow layer yarns by the upper and lower plates of the ninth mould in a tucking mode, and tucking by separating needles; knitting the hollow layer yarns by the upper and lower plates of the tenth die in a tucking mode, and tucking by separating needles; knitting yarns of the surface layer by the aid of an eleventh lower die disc; and a twelfth mould knits the yarns of the surface layer by using the first needle tuck and the second needle loop.
According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the preparation method of the hollow fluffed fabric can be performed according to the following specific steps:
adopting a knitting three-layer structure weaving method to form a surface layer, a hollow layer and a bottom layer to obtain a knitting hollow grey fabric;
and sequentially performing pre-setting, dyeing, washing, hair catching and setting on the knitted hollow grey cloth to obtain the hollow fluffed fabric.
The surface layer, the hollow layer and the bottom layer are formed by adopting a knitting three-layer structure weaving method, the surface layer and the bottom layer can be connected into a whole through the hollow layer polyester yarn or nylon, and the stable hollow layer is formed.
In the method for manufacturing the hollow fluffed fabric, the shaping and finishing preferably comprises one or more of resin treatment, soft oil treatment, mercerization and liquid ammonia mercerization.
According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the knitted hollow blank is preferably knitted using a knitted double machine.
In the above production method, the hollow layer of the hollow pile fabric and the yarns of the hollow layer are not broken when the pile finishing is performed.
The hollow fluffed fabric provided by the invention can solve the problems of single front weave structure, poor elasticity of a product with a single-sided structure, compact hand feeling after washing, low fluffiness and low heat-insulating effect of the traditional knitted fluffed fabric, and can also solve the problem that the traditional air layer fabric is difficult to fluff.
In the hollow fluffed fabric provided by the invention, the hollow layer has a certain thickness, so that more static air can be stored, the heat preservation effect of the fluffed fabric is further improved, and the wool effect density is lower through the adjustment of the wool grabbing process, so that the hollow fluffed fabric has excellent heat preservation performance under the condition of light wool grabbing. The first coils in the bottom layer of the hollow fluffing fabric protrude out of the surface of the bottom layer, so that the hollow fluffing fabric has the characteristics of easiness in fluffing, dense fluff effect and excellent fluff effect reproducibility, the polyester yarns of the hollow layer cannot be touched during fluffing, the structure of the hollow layer cannot be damaged, the problem that the traditional knitted air layer structure is difficult to fluff is solved, and the defects that the traditional fluffing fabric is single in front-side structure, low in single-side structure stiffness and width, poor in elasticity and easy to deform after washing are overcome. The fabric disclosed by the invention is fluffy in hand feeling, good in rebound resilience, strong in stiff feel, good in wool effect washing fastness, and capable of keeping warm, and the longer the plain looped pile fluffed fabric is washed, the thinner the plain looped pile fluffed fabric is, and the warm-keeping life of the fluffed fabric is prolonged.
Drawings
Fig. 1 is a weaving view of a conventional 3 × 1 sweater fluff fabric.
Fig. 2 is a schematic structural view of the hollow raised fabric of the present invention.
Fig. 3 is a diagram showing the effect of the back terry of the conventional 3 × 1 terry cloth.
Fig. 4 is a bottom surface effect diagram of the hollow raised fabric of the present invention.
Fig. 5 is a weaving view of the plain weave ten-pattern hollow pile fabric of the present invention.
Fig. 6 is a comparison graph of the hair effect of the hollow fluffed fabric of the present invention after washing.
FIG. 7 is a comparison graph of the hair effect of the traditional 3X 1 terry cloth after washing.
Fig. 8 is a cross-sectional view of a conventional 3 x 1 terry cloth.
Fig. 9 is a cross-sectional view of the plain weave ten-pattern hollow pile fabric of the present invention.
Fig. 10 is a cross-sectional thickness test result of a conventional 3 x 1 sweater fluff fabric.
Fig. 11 is a cross-sectional thickness test result of the plain weave ten-pattern hollow pile fabric of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions of the present invention will be described in detail below in order to clearly understand the technical features, objects, and advantages of the present invention, but the present invention is not limited to the practical scope of the present invention.
Example 1
The embodiment provides a hollow fluffed fabric, the weaving pattern of which is shown in figure 5, the cross section of which is shown in figure 9, and the hollow fluffed fabric comprises a surface layer, a hollow layer and a bottom layer, wherein the surface layer adopts 30-inch 100% ring spun cotton yarn; the bottom layer adopts 20 English count polyester cotton blended yarn (a first coil) and 50D/36F polyester filament yarn (a second coil); the hollow layer adopts 50D/36F polyester filament.
The method for manufacturing the hollow fluffed fabric comprises the following steps:
the distance between a needle cylinder and a dial is specially increased by using an 18G double-sided big circular knitting machine, namely the cylinder mouth distance is 2.2MM, the yarn feeding tension is 8cN, and the big circular knitting machine is provided with an FEED machine of an active yarn feeding device.
The plain weave ten-mode method, as shown in fig. 5, includes: the upper disc and the lower disc of the 18G double-sided circular knitting machine are arranged in a needle-to-needle mode, the upper disc of the first die weaves the 20-English polyester-cotton blended yarn in a first needle floating thread, second needle looping mode and needle-by-needle alternating mode, the lower disc is not weaved, the upper disc of the second die weaves the 50D/36F polyester filament yarn in a first needle looping mode, second needle tucking mode and needle-by-needle alternating mode, the lower disc is not weaved, and the upper disc and the lower disc of the third die weaves the 50D/36F polyester filament yarn in a tucking mode and tucking at intervals; knitting the 50D/36F polyester filament yarns by an upper plate and a lower plate of a fourth die in a tucking mode, tucking at a spacing needle, knitting the 30-English 100% ring spun cotton yarns by the lower plate of a fifth die, knitting the 20-English polyester-cotton blended yarns by the upper plate of the sixth die in a mode of first needle looping, second needle floating and needle-by-needle alternation, knitting the 50D/36F polyester filament yarns by the upper plate of a seventh die in a mode of first needle tucking, second needle looping and needle-by-needle alternation, knitting the lower plate in a non-knitting mode, knitting the 50D/36F polyester filament yarns by the upper plate and the lower plate of an eighth die in a tucking mode, and tucking at a spacing needle; and the ninth mold upper disc and the ninth mold lower disc knit the 50D/36F polyester filament yarns in a tucking mode, separate needles and tuck, and the tenth mold lower disc knit the 30-English 100 percent ring spun cotton yarn. Meanwhile, when the circular knitting machine weaves, attention needs to be paid to whether the exposed bottom is uniform. In the obtained grey cloth, the first coil and the second coil of the bottom layer are arranged at intervals, and the effect similar to a uniform towel surface is achieved.
The knitted hollow fabric grey cloth is made into knitted hollow cotton/terylene fluffing thermal fabric according to the following steps:
pre-shaping the grey cloth, wherein: the temperature of the oven is 195 ℃, the overfeed is 20 percent, and the speed is 18M/MIN;
dyeing the pre-shaped grey cloth, wherein the dyeing and washing pretreatment process is carried out by adopting the following reagents: 1.5G/L of bleaching treatment agent, 0.3G/L of penetrating agent, 2G/L of taurulata 50% ionic alkali, 3G/L of hydrogen peroxide and 1G/L of glacial acetic acid; the dyeing and washing process is carried out by adopting the following reagents: 2% of disperse dye, 1G/L of dispersing agent, 0.25G/L of leveling agent, 2G/L of glacial acetic acid, 3G/L of taurulata 50% ion alkali and 2G/L of sodium hydrosulfite; the pretreatment process for dyeing cotton adopts the following reagents: 0.25G/L of penetrant; the cotton dyeing process is carried out by adopting the following reagents: 2% of reactive dye, 70G/L of anhydrous sodium sulphate and 20G/L of sodium carbonate; the post-treatment process for the dyed cotton adopts the following reagents: 0.5G/L soaping agent, 0.5G/L dispersing agent and 4G/L color fixing agent;
carrying out hair grabbing treatment on the dyed fabric, wherein: the cloth speed is 15M/MIN, the forward needle roller rotating speed is 15R/MIN, and the reverse needle roller rotating speed is 20R/MIN;
the fabric subjected to the napping treatment is subjected to shaping treatment, wherein: the temperature is 130 ℃, the vehicle speed is 14M/MIN, the overfeeding is 30 percent, and the setting finishing liquid consists of 15G/L of soft oil for preventing pin holes, 1G/L of low-temperature degreasing agent, 75G/L of soft oil and 15G/L of PH value adjustment;
and (5) obtaining the hollow fluffy warm-keeping fabric after the shaping treatment is finished.
The gram weight of the hollow fluffed warm-keeping fabric is 350g/m2。
The hollow fluffed warm-keeping fabric of the embodiment and the traditional 3 × 1 fluffed fabric of a sweater (also called a real sweater) are subjected to a warm-keeping performance test, and the test results are shown in table 1. The hollow fluffed fabric obtained by the embodiment has better heat preservation performance.
The hollow fluffed warm-keeping fabric of the embodiment is subjected to a conventional physical and chemical index test, and the test result is shown in table 2.
TABLE 1
TABLE 2
| Test items | Test method | Test results | Require that |
| Dimensional stability | AATCC 135IIIA | +0.3×-2.3 | ≤-5.0×-5.0 |
| Pilling | ASTM D3512 | 3.0 | ≥3.0 |
| Bursting strength | ASTM D3786 | 81.0 | ≥60 |
| Colour fastness to sunlight of textiles | AATCC 16.3OPTION 3 | 4.0 | ≥4.0 |
| Color fastness to perspiration of textiles | AATCC 15 | 4.5 | ≥4.0 |
| Colour fastness to water staining of textiles | AATCC 107 | 4.5 | ≥4.0 |
| Colour fastness to rubbing of textiles | AATCC 8 | 4.5 | ≥4.0 |
| Color fastness to washing of textiles | AATCC 61-2A | 4.5 | ≥4.0 |
The hollow pile fabric obtained in this example was subjected to AATCC 135IIIA three-time washing test and compared with the fabric before washing, and the results are shown in fig. 6, respectively. As can be seen by comparison before and after washing, the fabric has no pilling after washing and dense wool effect.
AATCC 135IIIA three-wash test was performed on the conventional 3 x 1 terry cloth and compared with the cloth before washing, the results are shown in fig. 7, respectively. Compared with the prior art, the fluff of the fabric is entangled after washing, the pilling is serious, the fluff falls off more, and the bottom exposure phenomenon occurs, so that the heat retention and the comfort are greatly reduced.
The hollow fluffed fabric obtained in the embodiment can still keep hollow feeling, fluffy effect of dense fluff and good smoothness after being subjected to AATCC 135IIIA three-time washing test. This shows that the hollow raised fabric obtained in this example has excellent general physical indexes and excellent heat retention property.
As can be seen from fig. 8: the traditional 3 x 1 sweater fluffing fabric consists of a surface layer and a fluffy layer, and can be seen from figure 10: the cross-sectional thickness of the conventional 3 × 1 sweater fluffed fabric is about 0.975mm (1.95mm/2), as can be seen from fig. 9, the hollow fluffed fabric of the present embodiment is composed of a surface layer + a hollow layer + a bottom layer + a fluffed layer, and as can be seen from fig. 11, the cross-sectional thickness of the hollow fluffed fabric of the present embodiment is about 1.365mm (2.73 mm/2). The bending rigidity of the fabric is greatly influenced, and the textile materials science (edited in great east, China textile Press, 2006.5, ISBN 978-7-5064-3876-6) records that: regardless of the fabric, the bending stiffness of the fabric is significantly improved when the thickness is increased, and as can be seen from fig. 8 and 9, the cross-sectional thickness of the hollow fluffed fabric of the present embodiment is higher than that of the conventional 3 × 1 sweater fluffed fabric, and thus it can be demonstrated that the hollow fluffed fabric of the present embodiment has a better stiffness than that of the conventional 3 × 1 sweater fluffed fabric.
Example 2
The embodiment provides a hollow fluffed fabric which comprises a surface layer, a hollow layer and a bottom layer, wherein the surface layer adopts 30-inch 100% ring spun cotton yarn; the bottom layer adopts 20 English count polyester cotton blended yarn (a first coil) and 50D/36F polyester filament yarn (a second coil); the hollow layer adopts 50D/36F polyester filament.
The method for manufacturing the hollow fluffed fabric comprises the following steps:
the distance between a needle cylinder and a dial is specially increased by using an 18G double-sided big circular knitting machine, namely the cylinder mouth distance is 2.2MM, the yarn feeding tension is 8cN, and the big circular knitting machine is provided with an FEED machine of an active yarn feeding device.
Adopting a plain weave eight-mode weaving method, comprising the following steps: the knitting needles of the upper disc and the lower disc of the 18G double-sided big circular knitting machine are arranged in a staggered mode. The first mold upper disc weaves the 20-inch polyester-cotton blended yarn in a way of first needle floating thread, second needle looping and needle-by-needle alternation, the lower disc is not weaved, the second mold upper disc weaves the 50D/36F polyester filament yarn in a way of first needle looping, second needle tucking and needle-by-needle alternation, the lower disc is not weaved, the third mold upper disc and lower disc weaves the 50D/36F polyester filament yarn in a tucking way, and needle-separating tucking is carried out; knitting the 30-inch 100% ring spun cotton yarn by a lower disc of a fourth die, knitting the 20-inch polyester-cotton blended yarn by a fifth die in a mode of first needle looping, second needle floating and needle-by-needle alternation, knitting the lower disc without knitting, knitting the 50D/36F polyester filament yarn by a sixth die in a mode of first needle tucking, second needle looping and needle-by-needle alternation, knitting the lower disc without knitting, knitting the 50D/36F polyester filament yarn by an upper disc and a lower disc of a seventh die in a tucking mode, and tucking at intervals; and weaving the 30-inch 100% ring spun cotton yarn on the lower disc of the eighth die. Meanwhile, when the circular knitting machine weaves, attention needs to be paid to whether the exposed bottom is uniform. In the obtained grey cloth, the first coil and the second coil of the bottom layer are arranged at intervals, and the effect similar to a uniform towel surface is achieved.
The knitted hollow fabric grey cloth is made into knitted hollow cotton/terylene fluffing thermal fabric according to the following steps:
pre-shaping the grey cloth, wherein: the temperature of the oven is 195 ℃, the overfeed is 20 percent, and the speed is 18M/MIN;
dyeing the pre-shaped grey cloth, wherein the dyeing and washing pretreatment process is carried out by adopting the following reagents: 1.5G/L of bleaching treatment agent, 0.3G/L of penetrating agent, 2G/L of taurulata 50% ionic alkali, 3G/L of hydrogen peroxide and 1G/L of glacial acetic acid; the dyeing and washing process is carried out by adopting the following reagents: 2% of disperse dye, 1G/L of dispersing agent, 0.25G/L of leveling agent, 2G/L of glacial acetic acid, 3G/L of taurulata 50% ionic alkali and 2G/L of sodium hydrosulfite, wherein the pretreatment process for dyeing cotton is carried out by adopting the following reagents: 0.25G/L of penetrant; the cotton dyeing process is carried out by adopting the following reagents: 2% of reactive dye, 70G/L of anhydrous sodium sulphate and 20G/L of sodium carbonate; the post-treatment process for the dyed cotton adopts the following reagents: 0.5G/L soaping agent, 0.5G/L dispersing agent and 4G/L color fixing agent;
carrying out hair grabbing treatment on the dyed fabric, wherein: the cloth speed is 15M/MIN, the forward needle roller rotating speed is 15R/MIN, and the reverse needle roller rotating speed is 20R/MIN;
the fabric subjected to the napping treatment is subjected to shaping treatment, wherein: the temperature is 130 ℃, the vehicle speed is 14M/MIN, the overfeeding is 30 percent, and the setting finishing liquid consists of 15G/L of soft oil for preventing pin holes, 1G/L of low-temperature degreasing agent, 75G/L of soft oil and 15G/L of PH value adjustment;
and (5) obtaining the hollow fluffy warm-keeping fabric after the shaping treatment is finished.
The gram weight of the hollow fluffed warm-keeping fabric is 300g/m2。
The hollow fluffed warm-keeping fabric of the embodiment is subjected to a conventional physical and chemical index test, and the test result is shown in table 3.
TABLE 3
| Test items | Test method | Test results | Require that |
| Dimensional stability | AATCC 135IIIA | -1.7×-1.0 | ≤-5.0×-5.0 |
| Pilling | ASTM D3512 | 3.0 | ≥3.0 |
| Bursting strength | ASTM D3786 | 82.0 | ≥60 |
| Colour fastness to sunlight of textiles | AATCC 16.3OPTION 3 | 4.0 | ≥4.0 |
| Color fastness to perspiration of textiles | AATCC 15 | 4.5 | ≥4.0 |
| Colour fastness to water staining of textiles | AATCC 107 | 4.5 | ≥4.0 |
| Colour fastness to rubbing of textiles | AATCC 8 | 4.5 | ≥4.0 |
| Color fastness to washing of textiles | AATCC 61-2A | 4.5 | ≥4.0 |
Example 3
The embodiment provides a hollow fluffed fabric which comprises a surface layer, a hollow layer and a bottom layer, wherein the surface layer adopts 30-inch 100% ring spun cotton yarn; the bottom layer adopts 20 English count polyester cotton blended yarn (a first coil) and 50D/36F polyester filament yarn (a second coil); the hollow layer adopts 50D/36F polyester filament.
The method for manufacturing the hollow fluffed fabric comprises the following steps:
the distance between a needle cylinder and a dial is specially increased by using an 18G double-sided big circular knitting machine, namely the cylinder mouth distance is 2.2MM, the yarn feeding tension is 8cN, and the big circular knitting machine is provided with an FEED machine of an active yarn feeding device.
Adopts a Zhudidodecai weaving method, which comprises the following steps: the upper and lower disc knitting needles of the 18G double-sided circular knitting machine are arranged in a contraposition mode. The first mold upper disc weaves the 20-inch polyester-cotton blended yarn in a way of first needle floating thread, second needle looping and needle-by-needle alternation, the lower disc is not weaved, the second mold upper disc weaves the 50D/36F polyester filament yarn in a way of first needle looping, second needle tucking and needle-by-needle alternation, the lower disc is not weaved, the third mold upper disc and lower disc weaves the 50D/36F polyester filament yarn in a tucking way, and needle-separating tucking is carried out; the upper disc and the lower disc of the fourth die weave the 50D/36F polyester filament yarn in a tucking mode, the needles are separated for tucking, the lower disc of the fifth die weaves the 30-English 100 percent ring spinning cotton yarn, and the lower disc of the sixth die weaves the 30-English 100 percent ring spinning cotton yarn by first needle looping and second needle tucking; the seventh mould upper disc weaves the 20 English polyester-cotton blended yarn in a way of first needle looping, second needle floating and needle-by-needle alternation, the lower disc does not weave, the eighth mould upper disc weaves the 50D/36F polyester filament yarn in a way of first needle tucking, second needle looping and needle-by-needle alternation, the lower disc does not weave, the ninth mould upper and lower discs weaves the 50D/36F polyester filament yarn in a tucking way, and needle-separating tucking; and the upper disc and the lower disc of the tenth mould knit the hollow layer yarns in a tucking mode, the needles are separated and tucked, the lower disc of the eleventh mould knits the 30-inch 100% ring spinning cotton yarns, and the twelfth mould knits the 30-inch 100% ring spinning cotton yarns in a first needle tucking mode and a second needle looping mode. Meanwhile, when the circular knitting machine weaves, attention needs to be paid to whether the exposed bottom is uniform. In the obtained grey cloth, the first coil and the second coil of the bottom layer are arranged at intervals, and the effect similar to a uniform towel surface is achieved.
The knitted hollow fabric grey cloth is made into knitted hollow cotton/terylene fluffing thermal fabric according to the following steps:
pre-shaping the grey cloth, wherein: the temperature of the oven is 195 ℃, the overfeed is 20 percent, and the speed is 18M/MIN;
dyeing the pre-shaped grey cloth, wherein the dyeing and washing pretreatment process is carried out by adopting the following reagents: 1.5G/L of bleaching treatment agent, 0.3G/L of penetrating agent, 2G/L of taurulata 50% ionic alkali, 3G/L of hydrogen peroxide and 1G/L of glacial acetic acid; the dyeing and washing process is carried out by adopting the following reagents: 2% of disperse dye, 1G/L of dispersing agent, 0.25G/L of leveling agent, 2G/L of glacial acetic acid, 3G/L of taurulata 50% ion alkali and 2G/L of sodium hydrosulfite; the pretreatment process for dyeing cotton adopts the following reagents: 0.25G/L of penetrant; the cotton dyeing process is carried out by adopting the following reagents: 2% of reactive dye, 70G/L of anhydrous sodium sulphate and 20G/L of sodium carbonate; the post-treatment process for the dyed cotton adopts the following reagents: 0.5G/L soaping agent, 0.5G/L dispersing agent and 4G/L color fixing agent;
carrying out hair grabbing treatment on the dyed fabric, wherein: the cloth speed is 15M/MIN, the forward needle roller rotating speed is 15R/MIN, and the reverse needle roller rotating speed is 20R/MIN;
the fabric subjected to the napping treatment is subjected to shaping treatment, wherein: the temperature is 130 ℃, the vehicle speed is 14M/MIN, and the overfeeding is 30 percent; the sizing finishing liquid consists of 15G/L of soft oil for preventing pin holes, 1G/L of low-temperature degreasing agent, 75G/L of soft oil and 15G/L of PH value adjustment;
and (5) obtaining the hollow fluffy warm-keeping fabric after the shaping treatment is finished.
The gram weight of the hollow fluffed warm-keeping fabric is 310g/m2。
In conclusion, the hollow fluffed fabric provided by the invention creatively adopts a method of combining the knitting hollow structure with the fluffing process, solves the problems of single front-side structure, poor elasticity of products with single-side structures, compact hand feeling after washing, reduced fluffiness and reduced heat-preservation effect of the traditional knitting fluffed fabric, ensures that the obtained hollow fluffed fabric also has the advantages of good rebound resilience, heat preservation and fluffy hand feeling, and provides an ideal fabric for manufacturing coats and trousers in autumn and winter.
Claims (10)
1. The hollow fluffed fabric comprises a surface layer, a hollow layer and a bottom layer, wherein the surface layer is connected with the bottom layer through the hollow layer; the bottom layer consists of a first coil and a second coil, and the yarn count of the first coil is lower than that of the second coil;
the base layer is subjected to a raising treatment with a steel needle, and in the raising treatment, the first loops are elongated to protrude from the surface of the base layer.
2. A hollow pile fabric according to claim 1, wherein the bottom surface of the hollow pile fabric is in the form of a towel surface.
3. A hollow pile fabric as claimed in claim 2, wherein in the base layer the yarns for forming the first loops and the yarns for forming the second loops form a complete course, the two complete courses forming a complete knitting cycle, the first and second loops being complementarily distributed within the same course.
4. A hollow pile fabric as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the cylinder opening distance between the cylinder and the dial during weaving is 1.8MM to 2.5 MM.
5. The hollow pile fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the base layer is further subjected to carding and shearing after the steel needle napping.
6. The hollow pile fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the yarn of the hollow layer is polyester or nylon;
preferably, the hollow layer is 20-150 denier terylene or nylon;
preferably, the hollow layer is 100% polyester yarn or 100% nylon yarn.
7. A hollow pile fabric as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the surface layer is cotton yarn or cotton blended yarn;
preferably, the surface layer is 10-80 English cotton yarn or 10-80 English cotton wool, cotton polyester and cotton silk blended yarn;
preferably, the surface layer is all cotton yarn or cotton blended yarn.
8. A hollow pile fabric as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 7 wherein the base layer is cotton, polyester or blended yarn;
preferably, the low yarn count yarn adopted by the first coil is 10-80 cotton yarn or 10-80 cotton blended yarn, and the high yarn count yarn adopted by the second coil is 20-150 denier polyester yarn or nylon yarn;
preferably, the base layer is cotton, 100% polyester or blended yarn.
9. The hollow pile fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the hollow layer is knitted by tucking;
preferably, the second coil of the bottom layer covers the tuck of the hollow layer.
10. The method for manufacturing a hollow pile fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the hollow raw fabric used for the hollow pile fabric is produced by a knitting three-layer structure weave method, preferably, the weave method includes one of a plain eight-pattern weave method, a plain ten-pattern weave method, a beaded ten-pattern weave method, and a beaded twelve-pattern weave method;
preferably, the method of plain weave eight-mode weaving comprises: the knitting needles of the upper disc and the lower disc are arranged in a staggered manner; the upper disc of the first die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle floating thread, second needle looping and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; the upper disc of the second die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle looping, second needle tucking and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; knitting the hollow layer yarns by the upper and lower disks of the third die in a tucking mode, and tucking the full needles; weaving the yarns of the surface layer by a fourth lower die disc; knitting the yarns of the bottom layer on the upper disc of the fifth die in a mode of first needle looping, second needle floating and needle-by-needle alternation, and knitting the yarns on the lower disc without knitting; the upper disc of the sixth die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle tucking, second needle looping and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; knitting the hollow layer yarns by the upper and lower plates of the seventh mould in a tucking mode, and tucking the needles completely; weaving the yarns of the surface layer by the lower disc of the eighth die;
preferably, the method of plain weave ten-fold weaving includes: the upper disc and the lower disc are arranged in a contraposition way; the upper disc of the first die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle floating thread, second needle looping and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; the upper disc of the second die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle looping, second needle tucking and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; knitting the hollow layer yarns by the upper and lower disks of the third die in a tucking mode, and tucking by separating needles; knitting the hollow layer yarns by the upper and lower plates of the fourth die in a tucking mode, and tucking by separating needles; weaving the yarns of the surface layer by a fifth mould lower disc; the upper disc of the sixth die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle looping, second needle floating and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; the upper disc of the seventh mould weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle tucking, second needle looping and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; knitting the hollow layer yarns by the upper and lower disks of the eighth die in a tucking mode, and tucking by separating needles; knitting the hollow layer yarns by the upper and lower plates of the ninth mold in a tucking mode, tucking by separating needles, and knitting the yarns of the surface layer by the lower plate of the tenth mold;
preferably, the method of bead deca-patterning comprises: the knitting needles of the upper disc and the lower disc are arranged in a staggered manner; the upper disc of the first die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle floating thread, second needle looping and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; the upper disc of the second die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle looping, second needle tucking and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; knitting the hollow layer yarns by the upper and lower disks of the third die in a tucking mode, and tucking the full needles; weaving the yarns of the surface layer by a fourth lower die disc; knitting the surface layer yarn by a fifth lower die disc in a first needle looping manner and a second needle tucking manner; the upper disc of the sixth die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle looping, second needle floating and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; the upper disc of the seventh mould weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle tucking, second needle looping and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; knitting the hollow layer yarns by the upper and lower plates of the eighth die in a tucking mode, and tucking the needles completely; weaving the yarns of the surface layer by a ninth die lower disc; the tenth mould uses the first needle to tuck and the second needle to knit the yarn of the surface layer in a loop;
preferably, the method of the pearlesecondary modelling method comprises: the upper disc and the lower disc are arranged in a contraposition way; the upper disc of the first die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle floating thread, second needle looping and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; the upper disc of the second die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle looping, second needle tucking and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; knitting the hollow layer yarns by the upper and lower disks of the third die in a tucking mode, and tucking by separating needles; knitting the hollow layer yarns by the upper and lower plates of the fourth die in a tucking mode, and tucking by separating needles; weaving the yarns of the surface layer by a fifth mould lower disc; knitting the surface layer yarn by a sixth die lower disc in a first needle looping manner and a second needle tucking manner; the upper disc of the seventh mould weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle looping, second needle floating and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; the upper disc of the eighth die weaves the yarns of the bottom layer in a mode of first needle tucking, second needle looping and needle-by-needle alternation, and the lower disc does not weave; knitting the hollow layer yarns by the upper and lower plates of the ninth mould in a tucking mode, and tucking by separating needles; knitting the hollow layer yarns by the upper and lower plates of the tenth die in a tucking mode, and tucking by separating needles; knitting yarns of the surface layer by the aid of an eleventh lower die disc; and a twelfth mould knits the yarns of the surface layer by using the first needle tuck and the second needle loop.
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