CN114059221B - Weft knitting knitted shirt fabric and production process thereof - Google Patents
Weft knitting knitted shirt fabric and production process thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN114059221B CN114059221B CN202111419624.3A CN202111419624A CN114059221B CN 114059221 B CN114059221 B CN 114059221B CN 202111419624 A CN202111419624 A CN 202111419624A CN 114059221 B CN114059221 B CN 114059221B
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- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 74
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 title abstract description 17
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title abstract description 15
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 91
- 239000004759 spandex Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 91
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 79
- 229920004933 Terylene® Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 61
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 61
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 238000009826 distribution Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 238000007730 finishing process Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 3
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 31
- 238000009999 singeing Methods 0.000 claims description 25
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 18
- 238000007493 shaping process Methods 0.000 claims description 17
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 claims description 15
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 claims description 15
- 238000010409 ironing Methods 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 230000000149 penetrating effect Effects 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000003223 protective agent Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000003054 catalyst Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 claims description 7
- 238000005452 bending Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonia Chemical compound N QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000010304 firing Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000003825 pressing Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000005096 rolling process Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000009970 yarn dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000004902 Softening Agent Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 abstract description 4
- 230000014759 maintenance of location Effects 0.000 abstract description 4
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 abstract description 3
- 238000011084 recovery Methods 0.000 abstract description 3
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 abstract description 2
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 6
- 239000002028 Biomass Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000007667 floating Methods 0.000 description 3
- 235000017166 Bambusa arundinacea Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 235000017491 Bambusa tulda Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 241001330002 Bambuseae Species 0.000 description 2
- 235000015334 Phyllostachys viridis Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 230000000844 anti-bacterial effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000011425 bamboo Substances 0.000 description 2
- 150000001768 cations Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 239000003610 charcoal Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000010023 transfer printing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 2
- XUIMIQQOPSSXEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicon Chemical compound [Si] XUIMIQQOPSSXEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000003889 chemical engineering Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000012847 fine chemical Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009963 fulling Methods 0.000 description 1
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- 230000000704 physical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910052710 silicon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000010703 silicon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009423 ventilation Methods 0.000 description 1
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
Abstract
The invention relates to the technical field of textiles, in particular to a weft-knitted shirt fabric and a production process thereof. The knitted shirt fabric is prepared by weaving low-temperature spandex, cotton yarn and polyester as raw materials according to a small jacquard weave, wherein the low-temperature spandex and the cotton yarn are used as one path, and the polyester yarn is used as one path, and then carrying out an after-finishing process; the low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn coils and the polyester coils in the longitudinal direction of the small jacquard weave are arranged at intervals, and the weave distribution is as follows: the minimum circulation unit in the longitudinal direction is composed of 12 courses, and the minimum circulation unit in the transverse direction is composed of 6 wales. The invention adopts an innovative weft knitting weave structure matched with low-temperature spandex for weaving, carries out weaving on the cotton yarn and the low-temperature spandex with the same rule, and is arranged at intervals with terylene, the weave structure is compact, the finished fabric has excellent dimensional stability and elastic recovery, the characteristics of moisture absorption, air permeability and soft hand feeling of the fabric are kept, and the fabric is good in stiffness and smoothness and good in shape retention.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of textiles, in particular to a weft-knitted shirt fabric and a production process thereof.
Background
In recent years, the requirement on the comfort of clothing fabrics is higher and higher, shirts are necessities of people in life, and shirt fabrics on the market are generally woven fabrics and knitted warp-knitted fabrics. The woven shirt fabric is stiff and smooth, but has poor moisture absorption and air permeability, is comfortable to wear at a low temperature, but is worn at a high temperature, has more human body perspiration, low perspiration capability in the using process, is easy to generate stuffy feeling, is easy to deform after being washed for many times, and has poor wearability. While the comfort of the knitted warp knitted fabric is better than that of the woven fabric, the knitted warp knitted fabric is inferior to the weft knitted fabric in terms of lateral extension, elasticity and flexibility. Because the warp knitting structure is transversely connected by utilizing the wale and the loop of the warp, the required yarn strength is very high, the used yarn is generally chemical fiber, and the diversified selection of consumers for raw materials is limited.
Chinese patent CN102912546A discloses a high-density knitted shirt fabric and a preparation method thereof, wherein the high-density knitted shirt fabric is formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns; the warp yarns and the weft yarns are yarns containing all-biomass polyester; the yarn containing the full-biomass polyester comprises the following raw material components in percentage by mass: 1-5% of hollow bamboo charcoal polyester fiber, 0.1-1% of lycra fiber, 1-2% of bio-based PDT fiber and the balance of full-biomass polyester fiber; is prepared by mixing and spinning hollow bamboo charcoal polyester fiber, lycra fiber, bio-based PDT fiber and full biomass polyester fiber; the high density is 36-40 needles per square inch. The patent focuses on the explanation of the fabric formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns and the raw material components of the yarns, and does not relate to a specific tissue structure.
Chinese patent CN1223101a discloses a production method of knitted fabric shirt, which selects knitted fabric containing real silk or imitated real silk, and the knitted fabric is subjected to high-temperature setting treatment by a heat transfer printing machine, and then can be used for manufacturing shirt. The patent selects yarn raw materials, and the shaping and finishing of the fabric is carried out by a thermal transfer printing machine, which are far from enough for the stiffness, smoothness and shape retention required by the fabric of the shirt.
Chinese patent CN206034002U discloses a fine-gauge weft-knitted high-grade shirt fabric which is in a fine-gauge weft-knitted double-faced fabric structure and is formed by interweaving and weaving 50D low-temperature cation dyeable polyester low-stretch yarns, 50D high-resilience elastic yarns and 50D antibacterial polyester low-stretch yarns, and the size indexes of coils are the same. The yarn raw material selected by the patent is polyester, and the hygroscopicity is poor. The patent is not a double-sided tissue, the 50D/72F low-temperature cation dyeable terylene low stretch yarn and antibacterial terylene low stretch yarn tissue structure in the tissue structure is 1-1 looping, which is equivalent to a double-sided cotton interlock fabric tissue, and the 50D/36F high-resilience elastic yarn tissue is a full looping tissue, which is equivalent to a single-sided single-jersey tissue, and the two double-sided and single-sided tissue structures are combined, so that the size stability of the fabric is poor.
Chinese patent CN110512342A discloses a weft-knitted single-side folded high-elastic fabric and a production process, the production method adopts the knitting needles of an upper dial to be sequentially and circularly arranged by taking AB as a circulation unit, the knitting needles of a lower needle cylinder are sequentially and circularly arranged by taking BA as a circulation unit, and a Sorana fiber is penetrated into the knitting needles of the upper dial and the lower needle cylinder of the 1 st path and the 13 th path to be knitted; the first combed cotton penetrates through odd numbered knitting needles in the paths 1-24 except the path 1 and the path 13 and is knitted by lining spandex; the second combed cotton penetrates into double needles in 1-24 paths for knitting; the knitting is carried out on the upper dial of the two-needle channel, the lower needle cylinder of the two-needle channel and 24 paths in a circulating way. First, the structure in this patent is knitted using a dial and a dial, and the knitting connection between the dial and the dial is performed in 1-way and 13-way, and is a double-sided structure, not a single-sided structure, and there are two cases of a single-sided structure, one is knitted by only one of the dial and the dial, and the second is knitted by using the dial and the dial, but there is no connection portion between the dial and the dial; secondly, the front side and the back side of the double-sided structure are completely two parts, the front side and the back side are connected by tucking only through 1 path and 13 paths, namely the front side and the back side of the double-sided structure between the 2-12 paths and the 14-23 paths are completely not connected parts, but are independent parts in the front and the back, and the structure has poor tightness and dimensional stability and is not suitable for being used as shirt fabrics.
At present, the knitted shirt fabric has the defects of high elasticity, low resilience and the like, and is poor in wearability, so that the weft-knitted shirt fabric with a compact structure and good resilience and the production process thereof are urgently needed.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a weft knitting shirt fabric, which utilizes the organic combination of the texture structure and the yarn, has compact texture structure and good rebound resilience, keeps the characteristics of moisture absorption, ventilation and soft hand feeling of the fabric, and has good stiffness and smoothness and good shape retention; the invention also provides a production process thereof.
The technical scheme adopted by the invention for solving the technical problems is as follows:
the knitted shirt fabric is prepared by weaving low-temperature spandex, cotton yarn and polyester as raw materials according to a small jacquard weave, wherein the low-temperature spandex and the cotton yarn are used as one path, and the polyester yarn is used as one path, and then carrying out a post-finishing process; the low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn coil and polyester coil in the longitudinal direction of the small jacquard weave are arranged at intervals, and the weave distribution is as follows: the minimum circulation unit in the longitudinal direction is composed of 12 courses, and the minimum circulation unit in the transverse direction is composed of 6 wales.
Wherein
The distribution of the small jacquard weave is divided into 6 parts from bottom to top: the first part is that the 1 st path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are continuously looped for 2 times and float for 1 time, and are circulated for 2 times, and the 2 nd path of terylene is continuously floated for 2 times and looped for 1 time, and is circulated for 2 times; the second part is that the 3 rd path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are looped for 1 time and floated for 1 time, and are circulated for 3 times, and the 4 th path of terylene floated yarn is looped for 1 time and is circulated for 3 times; the third part is that the 5 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn float for 1 time of loop formation and 3 times of circulation, and the 6 th path of terylene floats for 1 time of loop formation and 1 time of circulation and 3 times of circulation; the fourth part is that the 7 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are looped for 1 time and floated for 1 time and circulated for 3 times, and the 8 th path of terylene floated yarn is looped for 1 time and circulated for 1 time and 3 times; the fifth part is that the 9 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are continuously looped for 2 times and float for 1 time, and are circulated for 2 times, and the 10 th path of terylene is continuously floated for 2 times and looped for 1 time, and is circulated for 2 times; the sixth part is that the 11 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are continuously floated for 2 times and looped for 1 time, and the 12 th path of terylene is continuously floated for 2 times and looped for 1 time, and looped for 2 times.
The yarn count of the low-temperature spandex is 20-30 denier, the yarn count of the cotton yarn is 40-80 English single yarn, and the yarn count of the terylene is 75-100 denier.
The length of the cotton yarn is 10-30cm, the length of the terylene is 10-25cm, and the length of the low-temperature spandex is 5-10cm.
The invention relates to a production process of a weft-knitted shirt fabric, which comprises the following steps: and sequentially carrying out yarn dyeing → weaving → preforming → sizing → singeing → mercerizing → liquid ammonia → washing → non-ironing → tentering → preshrinking on low-temperature spandex, cotton yarn and polyester to obtain the weft-knitted shirt fabric.
Wherein:
the weaving process adopts a three-position single-side small jacquard circular loom for weaving, the yarn bending depth of a needle pressing triangle is 4-6mm, a yarn feeding mode of a yarn covering nozzle is adopted, the yarn feeding tension is 3-7cN, the speed is 8-12 r/min, the width of grey cloth is 170cm, and the gram weight of the grey cloth is 177g/m 2 。
The shaping process is low-temperature shaping, the shaping temperature is 175-185 ℃, the vehicle speed is 35-45 m/min, and the air volume is 75/70-95/90CFM.
In the singeing procedure: the singeing mode adopts through-firing, the singeing intensity is 13-17 mbar, and the singeing speed is 70-90m/min.
The non-ironing process comprises the following steps: overfeeding is 15-25%, the concentration of a penetrating agent WA-M in a rolling groove is 2-5g/L, the concentration of a fiber protective agent SF-P is 8-12g/L, the concentration of resin CR-E is 70-90g/L, the concentration of a silicon oil softening agent SMI-K6 is 20-40g/L, the concentration of a resin catalyst CF-C is 20-30g/L, and the temperature is 110-130 ℃.
The penetrating agent is WA-M, the fiber protective agent is SF-P, the resin CR-E, the silicone oil softener SMI-K6 and the resin catalyst CF-C are all selected from products of Zibo Lu Rui fine chemical engineering company Limited.
The invention has the following beneficial effects:
1. the invention takes low-temperature spandex, cotton yarn and terylene as raw materials, the low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are taken as one path, the terylene is taken as the other path, and the low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are woven according to a small jacquard weave, and the distribution of the small jacquard weave is divided into 6 parts from bottom to top: the first part is that the 1 st path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are continuously looped for 2 times and float for 1 time, and are circulated for 2 times, and the 2 nd path of terylene is continuously floated for 2 times and looped for 1 time, and is circulated for 2 times; the second part is that the 3 rd path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are looped for 1 time and floated for 1 time, and are circulated for 3 times, and the 4 th path of terylene floated yarn is looped for 1 time and is circulated for 3 times; the third part is that the 5 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn floats for 1 time and is looped for 1 time, and the cycle is 3 times, and the 6 th path of terylene is looped for 1 time and floats for 1 time, and is looped for 3 times; the fourth part is that the 7 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are looped for 1 time and floated for 1 time, and the cycle is 3 times, and the 8 th path of terylene floated yarn is looped for 1 time and floated for 1 time, and the cycle is 3 times; the fifth part is that the 9 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are continuously looped for 2 times and float for 1 time, and are circulated for 2 times, and the 10 th path of terylene is continuously floated for 2 times and looped for 1 time, and is circulated for 2 times; the sixth part is that the 11 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are continuously floated for 2 times and looped for 1 time, and the 12 th path of terylene is continuously floated for 2 times and looped for 1 time, and looped for 2 times. The invention adopts an innovative weft knitting weave structure matched with a low-temperature spandex knitting form to knit one path of cotton yarn and low-temperature spandex with the same rule, the weave structure is in spaced configuration with terylene, the weave structure is in spaced configuration with the cotton yarn and the spandex and the terylene, the loop formation of one path of low-temperature spandex and the cotton yarn in each part corresponds to the floating line of one path of terylene when in knitting, the floating line of one path of low-temperature spandex and the cotton yarn corresponds to the loop formation of one path of terylene, and the weave structure is compact; and when the low-temperature spandex is subjected to post shaping, spandex filaments are melted to form a stable spandex network which is mutually adhered, and at normal temperature, the physical properties of the spandex are restored to the original state, so that the stable spandex network has good resilience. The combination of the small jacquard weave and the performance of the low-temperature spandex ensures that the finished fabric has excellent dimensional stability and elastic recovery, retains the characteristics of moisture absorption, air permeability and soft hand feeling of the fabric, and has good stiffness and smoothness and good shape retention.
2. In the production process of the weft-knitted shirt fabric, the characteristics of small jacquard weave and low-temperature spandex are combined, a yarn covering nozzle, a low-tension yarn feeding mode and a small yarn bending depth adjusting method are adopted, so that the weaving tension is uniform and stable, and the fabric surface is tight, stiff and smooth.
3. The invention weaves a small jacquard structure on the weft knitting circular knitting machine, thereby ensuring the low elasticity and small shrinkage rate of the knitted shirt fabric; the yarn count, the weave structure and the yarn length are organically combined, so that the cloth cover effect is smooth and stable.
4. The raw materials adopted by the invention contain low-temperature spandex, so that the fabric can be shaped at a lower temperature in the weaving process of the fabric, and the fabric is energy-saving and environment-friendly.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a stitch design drawing of the weft knitted shirt fabric weaving process of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a design and artistic drawing of a weft knitted shirt fabric of the invention;
in the figure: □ is the floating thread of cotton yarn and low temperature spandex or terylene;
looping terylene; ■ Is formed by looping cotton yarn and low-temperature spandex.
Detailed Description
The present invention is further described below with reference to examples.
Example 1
The weft-knitted shirt fabric comprises the following components: pure cotton combed 60-English single yarn, 75-denier terylene and 20-denier low-temperature spandex are used as raw materials, the low-temperature spandex and the cotton yarn are used as one path, and the terylene is used as the other path to be woven according to a small jacquard weave; the specific production process comprises the following steps: and sequentially carrying out yarn dyeing → weaving → preforming → sizing → singeing → mercerizing → liquid ammonia → washing → non-ironing → tentering → preshrinking on low-temperature spandex, cotton yarn and polyester to obtain the weft-knitted shirt fabric.
Wherein:
the pure cotton combed hundred-circle line is 15cm long, the terylene hundred-circle line is 13cm long, and the low-temperature spandex hundred-circle line is 5cm long; the low-temperature spandex is Lyca 1U072 manufactured by DuPont company.
The low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn coils and the polyester coils in the longitudinal direction of the small jacquard weave are arranged at intervals, and the weave distribution is as follows: the minimum circulation unit in the longitudinal direction is composed of 12 courses, the minimum circulation unit in the transverse direction is composed of 6 wales, and the distribution of specific small jacquard weave is divided into 6 parts from bottom to top: the first part is that the 1 st path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are continuously looped for 2 times and float for 1 time, and are circulated for 2 times, and the 2 nd path of terylene is continuously floated for 2 times and looped for 1 time, and is circulated for 2 times; the second part is that the 3 rd path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are looped for 1 time and floated for 1 time, and are circulated for 3 times, and the 4 th path of terylene floated yarn is looped for 1 time and is circulated for 3 times; the third part is that the 5 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn floats for 1 time and is looped for 1 time, and the cycle is 3 times, and the 6 th path of terylene is looped for 1 time and floats for 1 time, and is looped for 3 times; the fourth part is that the 7 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are looped for 1 time and floated for 1 time, and the cycle is 3 times, and the 8 th path of terylene floated yarn is looped for 1 time and floated for 1 time, and the cycle is 3 times; the fifth part is that the 9 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are continuously looped for 2 times and float for 1 time, and are circulated for 2 times, and the 10 th path of terylene is continuously floated for 2 times and looped for 1 time, and is circulated for 2 times; the sixth part is that the 11 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are continuously floated for 2 times and looped for 1 time, and the 12 th path of terylene is continuously floated for 2 times and looped for 1 time, and looped for 2 times.
In the weaving process, a three-position single-side small jacquard circular machine with the model of 30-40G is adopted for weaving, the yarn bending depth of a needle pressing triangle is 4mm, a yarn feeding mode of a yarn covering nozzle is adopted, the yarn feeding tension is 4cN, the speed is 11 r/min, the width of grey cloth is 170-75cm, and the gram weight of the grey cloth is 175-195g/m 2 。
The shaping process is low-temperature shaping, the shaping temperature is 180 ℃, the vehicle speed is 40 m/min, and the air volume is 75/70CFM.
In the singeing procedure: the singeing mode adopts through firing, the singeing intensity is 15 mbar, and the singeing speed is 70m/min.
The non-ironing process comprises the following steps: the overfeed is 25 percent, the concentration of a penetrating agent WA-M in a rolling groove is 3g/L, the concentration of a fiber protective agent SF-P is 9g/L, the concentration of resin CR-E is 70g/L, the concentration of a silicone oil softener SMI-K6 is 25g/L, the concentration of a resin catalyst CF-C is 30g/L, and the temperature is 115 ℃.
The other procedures are conventional procedures.
Example 2
The weft-knitted shirt fabric comprises the following components: pure cotton combed 100/2 English twisted cotton yarn, 100D terylene and 30D low-temperature spandex are used as raw materials, the low-temperature spandex and the cotton yarn are taken as one path, and the terylene is taken as the other path to be woven according to a small jacquard weave; the specific production process comprises the following steps: and sequentially carrying out yarn dyeing → weaving → preforming → sizing → singeing → mercerizing → liquid ammonia → washing → non-ironing → tentering → preshrinking on low-temperature spandex, cotton yarn and polyester to obtain the weft-knitted shirt fabric.
Wherein:
the length of the hundred-circle line of pure cotton combing is 27cm, the length of the hundred-circle line of terylene is 23cm, and the length of the hundred-circle line of low-temperature spandex is 9cm; the low-temperature spandex is Leica 1U041 of DuPont company.
The low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn coils and the polyester coils in the longitudinal direction of the small jacquard weave are arranged at intervals, and the weave distribution is as follows: the minimum circulation unit in the longitudinal direction is composed of 12 courses, the minimum circulation unit in the transverse direction is composed of 6 wales, and the specific distribution of the small jacquard weave is divided into 6 parts from bottom to top: the first part is that the 1 st path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are looped continuously for 2 times and are floated for 1 time and circulated for 2 times, and the 2 nd path of terylene is floated continuously for 2 times and are looped for 1 time and circulated for 2 times; the second part is that the 3 rd path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are looped for 1 time and floated for 1 time, and are circulated for 3 times, and the 4 th path of terylene floated yarn is looped for 1 time and is circulated for 3 times; the third part is that the 5 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn floats for 1 time and is looped for 1 time, and the cycle is 3 times, and the 6 th path of terylene is looped for 1 time and floats for 1 time, and is looped for 3 times; the fourth part is that the 7 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are looped for 1 time and floated for 1 time and circulated for 3 times, and the 8 th path of terylene floated yarn is looped for 1 time and circulated for 1 time and 3 times; the fifth part is that the 9 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are continuously looped for 2 times and are floated for 1 time, and the cycle is 2 times, and the 10 th path of terylene is continuously floated for 2 times and are looped for 1 time, and the cycle is 2 times; the sixth part is that the 11 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are continuously floated for 2 times and looped for 1 time, and the 12 th path of terylene is continuously floated for 2 times and looped for 1 time, and looped for 2 times.
In the weaving process, a three-position single-side small jacquard circular machine with the model of 34' 32G is adopted for weaving, the yarn bending depth of a needle pressing triangle is 6mm, the yarn feeding mode of a yarn covering nozzle is adopted, the yarn feeding tension is 7cN, the speed is 9 r/min, the width of grey cloth is 170cm, and the gram weight of the grey cloth is 193g/m 2 。
The shaping process is low-temperature shaping, the shaping temperature is 185 ℃, the vehicle speed is 35 m/min, and the air volume is 85/80CFM.
In the singeing procedure: the singeing mode adopts through firing, the singeing intensity is 17 mbar, and the singeing speed is 80m/min.
The non-ironing process comprises the following steps: overfeeding is 20%, the concentration of a penetrating agent WA-M in a rolling groove is 2g/L, the concentration of a fiber protective agent SF-P is 12g/L, the concentration of resin CR-E is 90g/L, the concentration of a silicone oil softener SMI-K6 is 40g/L, the concentration of a resin catalyst CF-C is 20g/L, and the temperature is 120 ℃.
The other procedures are all conventional procedures.
Example 3
The weft-knitted shirt fabric comprises the following components in parts by weight: pure cotton combed 70-English single yarn, 75-denier terylene and 30-denier low-temperature spandex are used as raw materials, the low-temperature spandex and the cotton yarn are used as one path, and the terylene is used as the other path to be woven according to a small jacquard weave; the specific production process comprises the following steps: and sequentially carrying out yarn dyeing → weaving → preforming → sizing → singeing → mercerizing → liquid ammonia → washing → non-ironing → tentering → preshrinking on low-temperature spandex, cotton yarn and polyester to obtain the weft-knitted shirt fabric.
Wherein:
the length of the hundred-circle line of the pure cotton combing is 13cm, the length of the hundred-circle line of the terylene is 15cm, and the length of the hundred-circle line of the low-temperature spandex is 8cm; the low-temperature spandex is Lyca 1U041 from DuPont company.
The low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn coils and the polyester coils in the longitudinal direction of the small jacquard weave are arranged at intervals, and the weave distribution is as follows: the minimum circulation unit in the longitudinal direction is composed of 12 courses, the minimum circulation unit in the transverse direction is composed of 6 wales, and the distribution of specific small jacquard weave is divided into 6 parts from bottom to top: the first part is that the 1 st path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are looped continuously for 2 times and are floated for 1 time and circulated for 2 times, and the 2 nd path of terylene is floated continuously for 2 times and are looped for 1 time and circulated for 2 times; the second part is that the 3 rd path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are looped for 1 time and floated for 1 time, and are circulated for 3 times, and the 4 th path of terylene floated yarn is looped for 1 time and is circulated for 3 times; the third part is that the 5 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn float for 1 time of loop formation and 3 times of circulation, and the 6 th path of terylene floats for 1 time of loop formation and 1 time of circulation and 3 times of circulation; the fourth part is that the 7 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are looped for 1 time and floated for 1 time, and the cycle is 3 times, and the 8 th path of terylene floated yarn is looped for 1 time and floated for 1 time, and the cycle is 3 times; the fifth part is that the 9 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are continuously looped for 2 times and float for 1 time, and are circulated for 2 times, and the 10 th path of terylene is continuously floated for 2 times and looped for 1 time, and is circulated for 2 times; the sixth part is that the 11 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are continuously floated for 2 times and looped for 1 time, and the 12 th path of terylene is continuously floated for 2 times and looped for 1 time, and looped for 2 times.
The weaving procedure adopts a loom with a model of 30 40GThe circular jacquard loom is used for weaving, the yarn bending depth of a needle pressing triangle is 5mm, the yarn feeding mode of a yarn covering nozzle is adopted, the yarn feeding tension is 6cN, the speed is 12 r/min, the width of grey cloth is 170cm, and the gram weight of the grey cloth is 185g/m 2 。
The shaping process is low-temperature shaping, the shaping temperature is 175 ℃, the vehicle speed is 35 m/min, and the air volume is 95/90CFM.
In the singeing procedure: the singeing mode adopts through-firing, the singeing intensity is 13 mbar, and the singeing speed is 90m/min.
The non-ironing process comprises the following steps: the overfeed is 15 percent, the concentration of a penetrating agent WA-M in a rolling groove is 5g/L, the concentration of a fiber protective agent SF-P is 8g/L, the concentration of resin CR-E is 80g/L, the concentration of a silicone oil softening agent SMI-K6 is 20g/L, the concentration of a resin catalyst CF-C is 25g/L, and the temperature is 125 ℃.
The other procedures are all conventional procedures.
The finished weft-knitted shirt fabric obtained in examples 1 to 3 has a stiff and smooth appearance and good recovery, and is subjected to an intrinsic quality test, wherein the data are shown in table 1, wherein T represents a longitudinal direction and W represents a transverse direction. The test standard performs: grammage ISO 3801:1977 standard, permanent press AATCC 124-2018 standard, glycidyl ISO 6330:2012 standard, elastic BS EN 14704-2005 standard, post-cleaning warping ISO 16322-2 standard, pilling ISO 12945-2 standard.
Table 1 intrinsic quality test data sheet for fabrics of examples 1-3
Claims (9)
1. A weft-knitted shirt fabric is characterized in that: the fabric is prepared by weaving low-temperature spandex, cotton yarn and terylene which are used as raw materials according to a small jacquard weave, and carrying out an after-finishing process; the low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn coils and the polyester coils in the longitudinal direction of the small jacquard weave are arranged at intervals, and the weave distribution is as follows: the minimum circulating unit in the longitudinal direction consists of 12 transverse rows, and the minimum circulating unit in the transverse direction consists of 6 coil longitudinal rows;
the distribution of the small jacquard weave is divided into 6 parts from bottom to top: the first part is that the 1 st path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are continuously looped for 2 times and float for 1 time, and are circulated for 2 times, and the 2 nd path of terylene is continuously floated for 2 times and looped for 1 time, and is circulated for 2 times; the second part is that the 3 rd path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are looped for 1 time and floated for 1 time, and are circulated for 3 times, and the 4 th path of terylene floated yarn is looped for 1 time and is circulated for 3 times; the third part is that the 5 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn floats for 1 time and is looped for 1 time, and the cycle is 3 times, and the 6 th path of terylene is looped for 1 time and floats for 1 time, and is looped for 3 times; the fourth part is that the 7 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are looped for 1 time and floated for 1 time, and the cycle is 3 times, and the 8 th path of terylene floated yarn is looped for 1 time and floated for 1 time, and the cycle is 3 times; the fifth part is that the 9 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are continuously looped for 2 times and are floated for 1 time, and the cycle is 2 times, and the 10 th path of terylene is continuously floated for 2 times and are looped for 1 time, and the cycle is 2 times; the sixth part is that the 11 th path of low-temperature spandex and cotton yarn are continuously floated for 2 times and looped for 1 time, and the 12 th path of terylene is continuously floated for 2 times and looped for 1 time, and looped for 2 times.
2. The weft-knitted shirt fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the yarn count of the low-temperature spandex is 20-30 denier, the yarn count of the cotton yarn is 40-80 English single yarn, and the yarn count of the terylene is 75-100 denier.
3. The weft-knitted shirt fabric according to claim 2, characterized in that: the length of the cotton yarn is 10-30cm, the length of the terylene is 10-25cm, and the length of the low-temperature spandex is 5-10cm.
4. A process for producing a weft knitted shirt fabric according to any of claims 1 to 3, characterised in that: and sequentially carrying out yarn dyeing → weaving → preforming → sizing → singeing → mercerizing → liquid ammonia → washing → non-ironing → tentering → preshrinking on low-temperature spandex, cotton yarn and polyester to obtain the weft-knitted shirt fabric.
5. A process for producing a weft knitted shirt fabric according to claim 4, characterised in that: in the weaving process, a three-position single-side small jacquard circular loom is adopted for weaving, the yarn bending depth of a needle pressing triangle is 4-6mm, the yarn feeding mode of a yarn covering nozzle is adopted, the yarn feeding tension is 3-7cN, and the speed is 8-12 r/min.
6. A process for producing a weft knitted shirt fabric according to claim 4, characterised in that: the shaping process is low-temperature shaping, wherein the shaping temperature is 175-185 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 35-45 m/min.
7. A process for producing a weft knitted shirt fabric according to claim 4, characterised in that: in the singeing procedure, the singeing mode adopts through-firing, the singeing intensity is 13-17 mbar, and the singeing speed is 70-90m/min.
8. A process for producing a weft knitted shirt fabric according to claim 4, characterised in that: in the non-ironing process, overfeeding is 15-25%, the concentration of penetrating agent in a rolling groove is 2-5g/L, the concentration of fiber protective agent is 8-12g/L, the concentration of resin is 70-90g/L, the concentration of silicone oil softening agent is 20-40g/L, the concentration of resin catalyst is 20-30g/L, and the temperature is 110-130 ℃.
9. The process for producing a weft knitted shirt fabric according to claim 8, characterized in that: the penetrating agent is a penetrating agent WA-M, the fiber protective agent is a fiber protective agent SF-P, the resin is resin CR-E, the silicone oil softener is silicone oil softener SMI-K6, and the resin catalyst is CF-C.
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