Cosmetic with anti-aging effect and preparation process thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to a cosmetic with an anti-aging effect, in particular to a preparation process for preparing a cosmetic with a remarkable anti-aging effect by using flower plants and Chinese herbal medicines as raw materials through microbial synergistic fermentation, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics biology.
Background
Aging is a necessary rule of life process, and is a comprehensive process involving the influence of various factors inside and outside and the participation of multiple organs. The skin is the largest organ of the human body, and is responsible for protection, sensation, secretion, excretion, thermoregulation, immunoregulation, etc., and the skin gradually ages as other organs are aged. The main factors affecting skin aging are classified into intrinsic factors (such as age, gene mutation, cell metabolism, and hormonal environment) and extrinsic factors (such as chemicals, toxins, environmental pollution, ultraviolet rays, and ion rays), wherein the extrinsic factors cause skin aging due to solar radiation. Skin aging is manifested by increased wrinkles and pigmentation, loose and rough skin, and inelasticity. The exposure of the aging skin becomes the external expression of human aging, the aging skin is most easily perceived in the aging process of the human body, the face is most obvious, and the psychological burden of people is increased, so that the aging skin is delayed, the youth and the face are kept for a long time, the skin is a topic which is widely concerned by all walks of life in all ages, and the anti-aging product has a wide market.
Cosmetics have been sought after from ancient times by human beings as products having a skin-modifying effect. In our country, there have been a lot of literature on Chinese herbal medicines as raw materials for beautifying and modifying skin; in the west, there are also left in the legends a description of milk bathing, masking fish glue lines. Along with the transition of social progress and development in various periods, cosmetics are continuously developed and disintegrated, and are necessary to be fast consumption products for people all over the world today. With the rapid development of science and technology, the continuous growth of anti-aging cosmetics is accelerated by the introduction of a series of innovative systems to meet the needs of consumers who hope to keep young and prevent the signs of aging by using various anti-aging products, for example, patent 201811102064.7 discloses an anti-aging mask, which comprises the following components: butylene glycol, glycerin, 1, 2-pentanediol, placenta active substance, lycopene fermentation extract, grape seed essential oil, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, sodium acetylated hyaluronate, polyquaternium, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, tocopherol acetate, hydrogenated lecithin, sorbitol, carbomer, etc.; patent CN201910342514.8 discloses an anti-aging mask, which comprises the following components: hydrolyzed sclerotium rolfsii gum, glycerol glucoside, alpha-arbutin, oligopeptide-1 and cannabidiol; patent 201911089922.3 discloses an anti-aging skin care composition mainly containing Spanish moss extract and arginine ferulate.
In conclusion, the research on anti-aging skin care products is more, but the research on cosmetics with high oxidation resistance, especially cosmetics using flowers and plants as main raw materials is relatively less, the existing anti-aging products have different quality and adverse reactions are frequent, so that the flowers and the Chinese herbal medicines with natural sources and small adverse reactions and long history become a new favorite in the field of beauty and anti-aging. The preparation of the skin care cosmetic for resisting skin aging by using the modern biotechnology has very important significance.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to overcome the defects of the prior art and meet the requirements of consumers on skin lotion for resisting skin aging and beautifying the skin, the application provides the cosmetic with the anti-aging effect, integrates the modern bioseparation technology, the biological enzymolysis technology and the mixed bacteria microbial fermentation technology, and develops the skin-care cosmetic with the obvious anti-aging effect. The product can significantly increase the content of hyaluronic acid, hydroxyproline, total collagen and elastin in skin, increase the water content of skin, and increase the content of superoxide dismutase (SOD), glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px), Malondialdehyde (MDA) and hydroxyproline (Hyp) in skin tissue.
The invention realizes the technical effects through the following technical scheme:
the cosmetic with the anti-aging effect is characterized by comprising 30-60 parts of flower plant extract, 20-40 parts of polygonatum extract, 0.4 part of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, 3 parts of polyethylene glycol-4003 parts of emulsifier, 1.5 parts of thickener, 5 parts of glycerol, 5 parts of grape seed essential oil, 4 parts of squalane, 0.5 part of tocopheryl acetate, 0.2 part of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 0.2 part of triethanolamine, 2 parts of tranexamic acid and 0.2 part of carbomer.
Preferably, the anti-aging cosmetic is characterized by comprising 35-48 parts of flower plant extract, 30-35 parts of polygonatum extract, 0.4 part of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, 3 parts of polyethylene glycol-4003 parts of emulsifier, 1.5 parts of thickener, 5 parts of glycerol, 5 parts of grape seed essential oil, 4 parts of squalane, 0.5 part of tocopheryl acetate, 0.2 part of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 0.2 part of triethanolamine, 2 parts of tranexamic acid and 0.2 part of carbomer.
The optimal cosmetic with the anti-aging effect is characterized by comprising 45 parts of flower plant extract, 32 parts of polygonatum extract, 0.4 part of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, 3 parts of polyethylene glycol-4003 parts of emulsifier, 2 parts of thickener, 5 parts of glycerol, 5 parts of grape seed essential oil, 4 parts of squalane, 0.5 part of tocopheryl acetate, 0.2 part of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 0.2 part of triethanolamine, 2 parts of tranexamic acid and 0.2 part of carbomer.
The flower plant is one or more of flos Lonicerae, flos Rosae chinensis and flos Jasmini sambac.
Preferably, the flower plant is a mixture of Chinese rose and honeysuckle flower, and the mass ratio of the Chinese rose to the honeysuckle flower is 3: 1.
The preparation method of the flower plant extract comprises the following steps: removing pedicles of flower plants, cleaning, drying in the sun, pulverizing into plant pollen, sieving with 20 mesh sieve, and mixing the plant pollen with entrainer 95% ethanol to obtain extractive solution; placing the extraction solution in an extraction kettle, inputting supercritical carbon dioxide fluid into the extraction kettle, setting the pressure of the extraction kettle at 24-28MPa, the temperature at 35-55 ℃, and the extraction time at 2-4 h; sequentially introducing supercritical carbon dioxide fluid dissolved with the extract into a separation kettle I and a separation kettle II through a pressure reducing valve, setting the pressure of the separation kettle I to be 6-8MPa and the temperature to be 44-48 ℃, and collecting extract I; setting the pressure of a separation kettle II to be 4-5MPa and the temperature to be 32-34 ℃, and collecting an extraction liquid II; and combining the extract liquor I and the extract liquor II to obtain the flower plant extract.
Preferably, the mass ratio of the flower plant powder to the entrainer is 1: 4-6.
The emulsifier is one or more of glycerol polymethacrylate, propylene glycol and PVM/MA copolymer.
The thickener is one or more of laureth, C13-14 isoparaffin, and sodium polyacrylate.
The polygonatum odoratum extract is prepared by the following steps: removing impurities from the polygonatum odoratum raw material, crushing, sieving with a 80-150-mesh sieve, adding purified water with the mass ratio of 5 times of that of the raw material, and soaking for 40-60 min at 40-60 ℃; adding cellulase accounting for 2-3% of the mass ratio of the raw materials and non-starch polysaccharidase accounting for 1-2%, extracting for 10min under the assistance of microwave, wherein the microwave power is 250-400W, and then standing for more than 30 min; continuously adding 3 times of purified water into the polygonatum odoratum enzymatic hydrolysate after enzymolysis, then adding 3-5% of glucose, 0.3-0.5% of ammonium sulfate, 0.1-0.2% of monopotassium phosphate and 0.01% of magnesium sulfate in the fermentation liquor by mass ratio, and uniformly stirring; inoculating bacillus into the fermentation liquor, wherein the inoculation amount is 2-3% of the volume ratio of the fermentation liquor respectively; controlling the temperature to be 28-35 ℃ for aerobic fermentation, wherein the rotating speed of a shaking table is 100-150 r/min, and the fermentation time is 12-24 h; and (4) carrying out solid-liquid separation after fermentation to obtain the polygonatum odoratum extract.
Preferably, the bacillus is one or a mixture of two of bacillus licheniformis and bacillus subtilis, the bacillus licheniformis and the bacillus subtilis are both occluded in the China general microbiological culture Collection center, and the culture preservation numbers are CGMCC NO.6544 and CGMCC NO.8955 respectively.
Preferably, the ratio of the inoculation amount of the bacillus licheniformis and the bacillus subtilis is 3: 2.
The seed liquid of the bacillus subtilis and the bacillus licheniformisThe preparation method comprises the following steps: under the aseptic condition, LB culture medium is adopted to culture for 24 hours at the temperature of 28-32 ℃ to prepare liquid bacillus subtilis and bacillus licheniformis seed liquid, and the effective viable count of the seed liquid is required to be more than or equal to 109cfu/mL。
The invention provides a cosmetic with anti-aging effect, which is prepared by the following steps:
(1) the raw materials are matched: the raw materials are accurately mixed according to the proportion;
(2) mixing: mixing flower plant extractive solution, rhizoma Polygonati Odorati extractive solution, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, glycerol, grape seed essential oil, squalane, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, triethanolamine, and tranexamic acid;
(3) thickening: adding a thickening agent and carbomer into the uniformly mixed raw materials;
(4) emulsification: adding polyethylene glycol-400 and an emulsifier, and carrying out emulsification by keeping the temperature for 30min at the temperature of 30-40 ℃;
(5) homogenizing: homogenizing for 10-20 min on a homogenizer;
(6) subpackaging: and subpackaging the homogenized liquid to obtain the skin care cosmetic.
The invention provides a cosmetic with an anti-aging effect, which can obviously increase the content of hyaluronic acid, hydroxyproline, total collagen and elastin in skin, increase the water content of skin, and improve the content of superoxide dismutase (SOD), glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px), Malondialdehyde (MDA), hydroxyproline (Hyp) and the like in skin tissues. The safety evaluation of the product of the invention is carried out on the skin acute toxicity of SD rats, the skin irritation of New Zealand rabbits and the skin allergy of guinea pigs. The experimental results show that the product of the invention has no toxic reaction to the intact skin, no stimulation to the intact skin and no obvious effect on the allergic reaction of the guinea pig skin, thereby proving that the product is safe and non-toxic and conforms to the relevant regulations of cosmetics in China.
Compared with the prior art, the cosmetic with the anti-aging effect has the following remarkable advantages:
(1) the method takes the flower plants (honeysuckle, Chinese rose and jasmine) as the main raw materials, and the flower plant extract is prepared by the supercritical carbon dioxide extraction method, so that the anti-skin aging capacity of the flower plants is obviously improved, and a new way is developed for the industrial development of skin care products; the experimental result shows that the alcohol extracts of the honeysuckle, the Chinese rose and the jasmine have obvious effect of removing DPPH, wherein the removing effect of the alcohol extracts of the Chinese rose is higher than that of the honeysuckle and the jasmine, which is consistent with the research results of the better people and the like;
(2) the application integrates a modern bioseparation technology, a biological enzymolysis technology and a mixed bacteria microbial fermentation technology, and utilizes aerobic bacteria (bacillus subtilis and bacillus licheniformis) to jointly ferment the polygonatum odoratum to prepare the polygonatum odoratum extract, so that the oxidation resistance of the polygonatum odoratum extract is remarkably improved, and the skin aging resistance of the cosmetic is remarkably improved through the synergistic effect of the polygonatum odoratum extract and the flower plant extract;
(3) the flower and plant extract, the polygonatum extract (for skin care and anti-aging), the hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate (for moisture preservation), the glycerin, the grape seed essential oil (for moisture preservation), the polyethylene glycol-400 (for emulsification), the glycerin polymethacrylate/propylene glycol/PVM/MA copolymer (for emulsification), the squalane (for skin care), the tocopherol acetate (for oxidation resistance), the triethanolamine (for pH value regulation), the tranexamic acid (for whitening), the carbomer (for thickening) and other raw materials are scientifically matched, and the effects of skin tendering, skin care, face beautifying, whitening and the like are achieved through the synergistic effect of the raw materials.
Detailed Description
In the present application, the activation method of bacillus subtilis and bacillus licheniformis is as follows: under the aseptic condition, LB culture medium is adopted to culture for 24 hours at the temperature of 28-32 ℃ to prepare liquid bacillus subtilis and bacillus licheniformis seed liquid, and the effective viable count of the seed liquid is required to be more than or equal to 109cfu/mL. The bacillus licheniformis and the bacillus subtilis are both occluded in the China general microbiological culture Collection center, and the culture preservation numbers are CGMCC NO.6544 and CGMCC NO.8955 respectively.
Example 1
A cosmetic with anti-aging effect comprises the following specific process steps:
(1) preparing a flower plant extracting solution: removing pedicles of flower plants, cleaning, drying in the sun, pulverizing into plant pollen, sieving with 20 mesh sieve, and mixing the plant pollen with entrainer 95% ethanol to obtain extractive solution; placing the extraction solution in an extraction kettle, inputting supercritical carbon dioxide fluid into the extraction kettle, setting the pressure of the extraction kettle at 26MPa, the temperature at 45 ℃ and the extraction time at 3 h; the supercritical carbon dioxide fluid dissolved with the extract enters a separation kettle I and a separation kettle II sequentially through a pressure reducing valve, the pressure of the separation kettle I is set to be 7MPa, the temperature is set to be 46 ℃, and the extract I is collected; setting the pressure of a separation kettle II to be 4.5MPa and the temperature to be 33 ℃, and collecting an extraction liquid II; combining the extract I and the extract II to obtain a flower plant extract; the mass ratio of the flower plant powder to the entrainer is 1: 5; the flower plant is a mixture of Chinese rose and honeysuckle in a mass ratio of 3: 1;
(2) preparing a polygonatum extract: removing impurities from the polygonatum odoratum raw material, crushing, sieving with a 80-150-mesh sieve, adding purified water with the mass ratio of 5 times of that of the raw material, and soaking for 50min at 40-60 ℃; adding cellulase 2.5 wt% and non-starch polysaccharidase 1.5 wt% into the raw materials, extracting with microwave auxiliary for 10min with microwave power of 300W, and standing for more than 30 min; continuously adding 3 times of purified water into the enzymolysis liquid of the polygonatum odoratum after enzymolysis, then adding 4 mass percent of glucose, 0.4 mass percent of ammonium sulfate, 0.15 mass percent of monopotassium phosphate and 0.01 mass percent of magnesium sulfate into the fermentation liquid, and uniformly stirring; inoculating bacillus into the fermentation liquor, wherein the inoculation amount is 3% of the volume ratio of the fermentation liquor respectively; controlling the temperature to be 28-35 ℃ for aerobic fermentation, wherein the rotating speed of a shaking table is 100-150 r/min, and the fermentation time is 18 h; after fermentation, carrying out solid-liquid separation to obtain a polygonatum odoratum extract; the bacillus is a mixed bacterium of bacillus licheniformis and bacillus subtilis, the bacillus licheniformis and the bacillus subtilis are both occluded in the China general microbiological culture collection center, and the culture collection numbers are CGMCC NO.6544 and CGMCC NO.8955 respectively; the inoculation amount ratio of the bacillus licheniformis and the bacillus subtilis is 3: 2;
(3) the raw materials are matched: the raw materials are accurately mixed according to the proportion of 45 parts of flower plant extract, 32 parts of polygonatum extract, 0.4 part of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, 3 parts of polyethylene glycol-4003 parts of emulsifier 2 parts, 1.5 parts of thickener, 5 parts of glycerol, 5 parts of grape seed essential oil, 4 parts of squalane, 0.5 part of tocopheryl acetate, 0.2 part of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 0.2 part of triethanolamine, 2 parts of tranexamic acid and 0.2 part of carbomer;
(4) mixing: mixing flower plant extractive solution, rhizoma Polygonati Odorati extractive solution, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, glycerol, grape seed essential oil, squalane, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, triethanolamine, and tranexamic acid;
(5) thickening: adding a thickening agent and carbomer into the uniformly mixed raw materials;
(6) emulsification: adding polyethylene glycol-400 and an emulsifier, and carrying out emulsification by keeping the temperature for 30min at the temperature of 30-40 ℃;
(7) homogenizing: homogenizing for 10-20 min on a homogenizer;
(8) subpackaging: and subpackaging the homogenized liquid to obtain the skin care cosmetic.
Example 2
A cosmetic with anti-aging effect comprises the following specific process steps:
(1) preparing a flower plant extracting solution: removing pedicles of flower plants, cleaning, drying in the sun, pulverizing into plant pollen, sieving with 20 mesh sieve, and mixing the plant pollen with entrainer 95% ethanol to obtain extractive solution; placing the extraction solution in an extraction kettle, inputting supercritical carbon dioxide fluid into the extraction kettle, setting the pressure of the extraction kettle at 26MPa, the temperature at 45 ℃ and the extraction time at 3 h; the supercritical carbon dioxide fluid dissolved with the extract enters a separation kettle I and a separation kettle II sequentially through a pressure reducing valve, the pressure of the separation kettle I is set to be 7MPa, the temperature is set to be 46 ℃, and the extract I is collected; setting the pressure of a separation kettle II to be 4.5MPa and the temperature to be 33 ℃, and collecting an extraction liquid II; combining the extract I and the extract II to obtain a flower plant extract; the mass ratio of the flower plant powder to the entrainer is 1: 5; the flower plant is Chinese rose;
(2) preparing a polygonatum extract: removing impurities from the polygonatum odoratum raw material, crushing, sieving with a 80-150-mesh sieve, adding purified water with the mass ratio of 5 times of that of the raw material, and soaking for 50min at 40-60 ℃; adding cellulase 2.5 wt% and non-starch polysaccharidase 1.5 wt% into the raw materials, extracting with microwave auxiliary for 10min with microwave power of 300W, and standing for more than 30 min; continuously adding 3 times of purified water into the enzymolysis liquid of the polygonatum odoratum after enzymolysis, then adding 4 mass percent of glucose, 0.4 mass percent of ammonium sulfate, 0.15 mass percent of monopotassium phosphate and 0.01 mass percent of magnesium sulfate into the fermentation liquid, and uniformly stirring; inoculating bacillus into the fermentation liquor, wherein the inoculation amount is 3% of the volume ratio of the fermentation liquor respectively; controlling the temperature to be 28-35 ℃ for aerobic fermentation, wherein the rotating speed of a shaking table is 100-150 r/min, and the fermentation time is 18 h; after fermentation, carrying out solid-liquid separation to obtain a polygonatum odoratum extract; the bacillus is a mixed bacterium of bacillus licheniformis and bacillus subtilis, the bacillus licheniformis and the bacillus subtilis are both occluded in the China general microbiological culture collection center, and the culture collection numbers are CGMCC NO.6544 and CGMCC NO.8955 respectively; the inoculation amount ratio of the bacillus licheniformis and the bacillus subtilis is 3: 2;
(3) the raw materials are matched: the raw materials are accurately mixed according to the proportion of 45 parts of flower plant extract, 32 parts of polygonatum extract, 0.4 part of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, 3 parts of polyethylene glycol-4003 parts of emulsifier 2 parts, 1.5 parts of thickener, 5 parts of glycerol, 5 parts of grape seed essential oil, 4 parts of squalane, 0.5 part of tocopheryl acetate, 0.2 part of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 0.2 part of triethanolamine, 2 parts of tranexamic acid and 0.2 part of carbomer;
(4) mixing: mixing flower plant extractive solution, rhizoma Polygonati Odorati extractive solution, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, glycerol, grape seed essential oil, squalane, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, triethanolamine, and tranexamic acid;
(5) thickening: adding a thickening agent and carbomer into the uniformly mixed raw materials;
(6) emulsification: adding polyethylene glycol-400 and an emulsifier, and carrying out emulsification by keeping the temperature for 30min at the temperature of 30-40 ℃;
(7) homogenizing: homogenizing for 10-20 min on a homogenizer;
(8) subpackaging: and subpackaging the homogenized liquid to obtain the skin care cosmetic.
Example 3
A cosmetic with anti-aging effect comprises the following specific process steps:
(1) preparing a flower plant extracting solution: removing pedicles of flower plants, cleaning, drying in the sun, pulverizing into plant pollen, sieving with 20 mesh sieve, and mixing the plant pollen with entrainer 95% ethanol to obtain extractive solution; placing the extraction solution in an extraction kettle, inputting supercritical carbon dioxide fluid into the extraction kettle, setting the pressure of the extraction kettle at 26MPa, the temperature at 45 ℃ and the extraction time at 3 h; the supercritical carbon dioxide fluid dissolved with the extract enters a separation kettle I and a separation kettle II sequentially through a pressure reducing valve, the pressure of the separation kettle I is set to be 7MPa, the temperature is set to be 46 ℃, and the extract I is collected; setting the pressure of a separation kettle II to be 4.5MPa and the temperature to be 33 ℃, and collecting an extraction liquid II; combining the extract I and the extract II to obtain a flower plant extract; the mass ratio of the flower plant powder to the entrainer is 1: 5; the flower plant is honeysuckle;
(2) preparing a polygonatum extract: removing impurities from the polygonatum odoratum raw material, crushing, sieving with a 80-150-mesh sieve, adding purified water with the mass ratio of 5 times of that of the raw material, and soaking for 50min at 40-60 ℃; adding cellulase 2.5 wt% and non-starch polysaccharidase 1.5 wt% into the raw materials, extracting with microwave auxiliary for 10min with microwave power of 300W, and standing for more than 30 min; continuously adding 3 times of purified water into the enzymolysis liquid of the polygonatum odoratum after enzymolysis, then adding 4 mass percent of glucose, 0.4 mass percent of ammonium sulfate, 0.15 mass percent of monopotassium phosphate and 0.01 mass percent of magnesium sulfate into the fermentation liquid, and uniformly stirring; inoculating bacillus into the fermentation liquor, wherein the inoculation amount is 3% of the volume ratio of the fermentation liquor respectively; controlling the temperature to be 28-35 ℃ for aerobic fermentation, wherein the rotating speed of a shaking table is 100-150 r/min, and the fermentation time is 18 h; after fermentation, carrying out solid-liquid separation to obtain a polygonatum odoratum extract; the bacillus is a mixed bacterium of bacillus licheniformis and bacillus subtilis, the bacillus licheniformis and the bacillus subtilis are both occluded in the China general microbiological culture collection center, and the culture collection numbers are CGMCC NO.6544 and CGMCC NO.8955 respectively; the inoculation amount ratio of the bacillus licheniformis and the bacillus subtilis is 3: 2;
(3) the raw materials are matched: the raw materials are accurately mixed according to the proportion of 45 parts of flower plant extract, 32 parts of polygonatum extract, 0.4 part of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, 3 parts of polyethylene glycol-4003 parts of emulsifier 2 parts, 1.5 parts of thickener, 5 parts of glycerol, 5 parts of grape seed essential oil, 4 parts of squalane, 0.5 part of tocopheryl acetate, 0.2 part of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 0.2 part of triethanolamine, 2 parts of tranexamic acid and 0.2 part of carbomer;
(4) mixing: mixing flower plant extractive solution, rhizoma Polygonati Odorati extractive solution, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, glycerol, grape seed essential oil, squalane, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, triethanolamine, and tranexamic acid;
(5) thickening: adding a thickening agent and carbomer into the uniformly mixed raw materials;
(6) emulsification: adding polyethylene glycol-400 and an emulsifier, and carrying out emulsification by keeping the temperature for 30min at the temperature of 30-40 ℃;
(7) homogenizing: homogenizing for 10-20 min on a homogenizer;
(8) subpackaging: and subpackaging the homogenized liquid to obtain the skin care cosmetic.
Example 4
A cosmetic with anti-aging effect comprises the following specific process steps:
(1) preparing a flower plant extracting solution: removing pedicles of flower plants, cleaning, drying in the sun, pulverizing into plant pollen, sieving with 20 mesh sieve, and mixing the plant pollen with entrainer 95% ethanol to obtain extractive solution; placing the extraction solution in an extraction kettle, inputting supercritical carbon dioxide fluid into the extraction kettle, setting the pressure of the extraction kettle at 26MPa, the temperature at 45 ℃ and the extraction time at 3 h; the supercritical carbon dioxide fluid dissolved with the extract enters a separation kettle I and a separation kettle II sequentially through a pressure reducing valve, the pressure of the separation kettle I is set to be 7MPa, the temperature is set to be 46 ℃, and the extract I is collected; setting the pressure of a separation kettle II to be 4.5MPa and the temperature to be 33 ℃, and collecting an extraction liquid II; combining the extract I and the extract II to obtain a flower plant extract; the mass ratio of the flower plant powder to the entrainer is 1: 5; the flower plant is a mixture of Chinese rose and honeysuckle in a mass ratio of 3: 1;
(2) preparing a polygonatum extract: removing impurities from the polygonatum odoratum raw material, crushing, sieving with a 80-150-mesh sieve, adding purified water with the mass ratio of 5 times of that of the raw material, and soaking for 50min at 40-60 ℃; adding cellulase 2.5 wt% and non-starch polysaccharidase 1.5 wt% into the raw materials, extracting with microwave auxiliary for 10min with microwave power of 300W, and standing for more than 30 min; continuously adding 3 times of purified water into the enzymolysis liquid of the polygonatum odoratum after enzymolysis, then adding 4 mass percent of glucose, 0.4 mass percent of ammonium sulfate, 0.15 mass percent of monopotassium phosphate and 0.01 mass percent of magnesium sulfate into the fermentation liquid, and uniformly stirring; inoculating bacillus into the fermentation liquor, wherein the inoculation amount is 3% of the volume ratio of the fermentation liquor respectively; controlling the temperature to be 28-35 ℃ for aerobic fermentation, wherein the rotating speed of a shaking table is 100-150 r/min, and the fermentation time is 18 h; after fermentation, carrying out solid-liquid separation to obtain a polygonatum odoratum extract; the bacillus is bacillus licheniformis, and is occluded in China general microbiological culture Collection center, and the culture collection numbers are CGMCC NO.6544 respectively;
(3) the raw materials are matched: the raw materials are accurately mixed according to the proportion of 45 parts of flower plant extract, 32 parts of polygonatum extract, 0.4 part of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, 3 parts of polyethylene glycol-4003 parts of emulsifier 2 parts, 1.5 parts of thickener, 5 parts of glycerol, 5 parts of grape seed essential oil, 4 parts of squalane, 0.5 part of tocopheryl acetate, 0.2 part of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 0.2 part of triethanolamine, 2 parts of tranexamic acid and 0.2 part of carbomer;
(4) mixing: mixing flower plant extractive solution, rhizoma Polygonati Odorati extractive solution, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, glycerol, grape seed essential oil, squalane, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, triethanolamine, and tranexamic acid;
(5) thickening: adding a thickening agent and carbomer into the uniformly mixed raw materials;
(6) emulsification: adding polyethylene glycol-400 and an emulsifier, and carrying out emulsification by keeping the temperature for 30min at the temperature of 30-40 ℃;
(7) homogenizing: homogenizing for 10-20 min on a homogenizer;
(8) subpackaging: and subpackaging the homogenized liquid to obtain the skin care cosmetic.
Example 5
A cosmetic with anti-aging effect comprises the following specific process steps:
(1) preparing a flower plant extracting solution: removing pedicles of flower plants, cleaning, drying in the sun, pulverizing into plant pollen, sieving with 20 mesh sieve, and mixing the plant pollen with entrainer 95% ethanol to obtain extractive solution; placing the extraction solution in an extraction kettle, inputting supercritical carbon dioxide fluid into the extraction kettle, setting the pressure of the extraction kettle at 26MPa, the temperature at 45 ℃ and the extraction time at 3 h; the supercritical carbon dioxide fluid dissolved with the extract enters a separation kettle I and a separation kettle II sequentially through a pressure reducing valve, the pressure of the separation kettle I is set to be 7MPa, the temperature is set to be 46 ℃, and the extract I is collected; setting the pressure of a separation kettle II to be 4.5MPa and the temperature to be 33 ℃, and collecting an extraction liquid II; combining the extract I and the extract II to obtain a flower plant extract; the mass ratio of the flower plant powder to the entrainer is 1: 5; the flower plant is a mixture of Chinese rose and honeysuckle in a mass ratio of 3: 1;
(2) preparing a polygonatum extract: removing impurities from the polygonatum odoratum raw material, crushing, sieving with a 80-150-mesh sieve, adding purified water with the mass ratio of 5 times of that of the raw material, and soaking for 50min at 40-60 ℃; adding cellulase 2.5 wt% and non-starch polysaccharidase 1.5 wt% into the raw materials, extracting with microwave auxiliary for 10min with microwave power of 300W, and standing for more than 30 min; continuously adding 3 times of purified water into the enzymolysis liquid of the polygonatum odoratum after enzymolysis, then adding 4 mass percent of glucose, 0.4 mass percent of ammonium sulfate, 0.15 mass percent of monopotassium phosphate and 0.01 mass percent of magnesium sulfate into the fermentation liquid, and uniformly stirring; inoculating bacillus into the fermentation liquor, wherein the inoculation amount is 3% of the volume ratio of the fermentation liquor respectively; controlling the temperature to be 28-35 ℃ for aerobic fermentation, wherein the rotating speed of a shaking table is 100-150 r/min, and the fermentation time is 18 h; after fermentation, carrying out solid-liquid separation to obtain a polygonatum odoratum extract; the bacillus is bacillus subtilis and is occluded in China general microbiological culture collection center, and the culture collection numbers are respectively CGMCC NO. 8955;
(3) the raw materials are matched: the raw materials are accurately mixed according to the proportion of 45 parts of flower plant extract, 32 parts of polygonatum extract, 0.4 part of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, 3 parts of polyethylene glycol-4003 parts of emulsifier 2 parts, 1.5 parts of thickener, 5 parts of glycerol, 5 parts of grape seed essential oil, 4 parts of squalane, 0.5 part of tocopheryl acetate, 0.2 part of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 0.2 part of triethanolamine, 2 parts of tranexamic acid and 0.2 part of carbomer;
(4) mixing: mixing flower plant extractive solution, rhizoma Polygonati Odorati extractive solution, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, glycerol, grape seed essential oil, squalane, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, triethanolamine, and tranexamic acid;
(5) thickening: adding a thickening agent and carbomer into the uniformly mixed raw materials;
(6) emulsification: adding polyethylene glycol-400 and an emulsifier, and carrying out emulsification by keeping the temperature for 30min at the temperature of 30-40 ℃;
(7) homogenizing: homogenizing for 10-20 min on a homogenizer;
(8) subpackaging: and subpackaging the homogenized liquid to obtain the skin care cosmetic.
Example 6
A cosmetic with anti-aging effect comprises the following specific process steps:
(1) preparing a flower plant extracting solution: removing pedicles of flower plants, cleaning, drying in the sun, pulverizing into plant pollen, sieving with 20 mesh sieve, and mixing the plant pollen with entrainer 95% ethanol to obtain extractive solution; placing the extraction solution in an extraction kettle, inputting supercritical carbon dioxide fluid into the extraction kettle, setting the pressure of the extraction kettle at 26MPa, the temperature at 45 ℃ and the extraction time at 3 h; the supercritical carbon dioxide fluid dissolved with the extract enters a separation kettle I and a separation kettle II sequentially through a pressure reducing valve, the pressure of the separation kettle I is set to be 7MPa, the temperature is set to be 46 ℃, and the extract I is collected; setting the pressure of a separation kettle II to be 4.5MPa and the temperature to be 33 ℃, and collecting an extraction liquid II; combining the extract I and the extract II to obtain a flower plant extract; the mass ratio of the flower plant powder to the entrainer is 1: 5; the flower plant is a mixture of Chinese rose and honeysuckle in a mass ratio of 3: 2;
(2) preparing a polygonatum extract: removing impurities from the polygonatum odoratum raw material, crushing, sieving with a 80-150-mesh sieve, adding purified water with the mass ratio of 5 times of that of the raw material, and soaking for 50min at 40-60 ℃; adding cellulase 2.5 wt% and non-starch polysaccharidase 1.5 wt% into the raw materials, extracting with microwave auxiliary for 10min with microwave power of 300W, and standing for more than 30 min; continuously adding 3 times of purified water into the enzymolysis liquid of the polygonatum odoratum after enzymolysis, then adding 4 mass percent of glucose, 0.4 mass percent of ammonium sulfate, 0.15 mass percent of monopotassium phosphate and 0.01 mass percent of magnesium sulfate into the fermentation liquid, and uniformly stirring; inoculating bacillus into the fermentation liquor, wherein the inoculation amount is 3% of the volume ratio of the fermentation liquor respectively; controlling the temperature to be 28-35 ℃ for aerobic fermentation, wherein the rotating speed of a shaking table is 100-150 r/min, and the fermentation time is 18 h; after fermentation, carrying out solid-liquid separation to obtain a polygonatum odoratum extract; the bacillus is a mixed bacterium of bacillus licheniformis and bacillus subtilis, the bacillus licheniformis and the bacillus subtilis are both occluded in the China general microbiological culture collection center, and the culture collection numbers are CGMCC NO.6544 and CGMCC NO.8955 respectively; the inoculation amount ratio of the bacillus licheniformis and the bacillus subtilis is 3: 2;
(3) the raw materials are matched: the raw materials are accurately mixed according to the proportion of 45 parts of flower plant extract, 32 parts of polygonatum extract, 0.4 part of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, 3 parts of polyethylene glycol-4003 parts of emulsifier 2 parts, 1.5 parts of thickener, 5 parts of glycerol, 5 parts of grape seed essential oil, 4 parts of squalane, 0.5 part of tocopheryl acetate, 0.2 part of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 0.2 part of triethanolamine, 2 parts of tranexamic acid and 0.2 part of carbomer;
(4) mixing: mixing flower plant extractive solution, rhizoma Polygonati Odorati extractive solution, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, glycerol, grape seed essential oil, squalane, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, triethanolamine, and tranexamic acid;
(5) thickening: adding a thickening agent and carbomer into the uniformly mixed raw materials;
(6) emulsification: adding polyethylene glycol-400 and an emulsifier, and carrying out emulsification by keeping the temperature for 30min at the temperature of 30-40 ℃;
(7) homogenizing: homogenizing for 10-20 min on a homogenizer;
(8) subpackaging: and subpackaging the homogenized liquid to obtain the skin care cosmetic.
Example 7
A cosmetic with anti-aging effect comprises the following specific process steps:
(1) preparing a flower plant extracting solution: removing pedicles of flower plants, cleaning, drying in the sun, pulverizing into plant pollen, sieving with 20 mesh sieve, and mixing the plant pollen with entrainer 95% ethanol to obtain extractive solution; placing the extraction solution in an extraction kettle, inputting supercritical carbon dioxide fluid into the extraction kettle, setting the pressure of the extraction kettle at 26MPa, the temperature at 45 ℃ and the extraction time at 3 h; the supercritical carbon dioxide fluid dissolved with the extract enters a separation kettle I and a separation kettle II sequentially through a pressure reducing valve, the pressure of the separation kettle I is set to be 7MPa, the temperature is set to be 46 ℃, and the extract I is collected; setting the pressure of a separation kettle II to be 4.5MPa and the temperature to be 33 ℃, and collecting an extraction liquid II; combining the extract I and the extract II to obtain a flower plant extract; the mass ratio of the flower plant powder to the entrainer is 1: 5; the flower plant is a mixture of Chinese rose and honeysuckle in a mass ratio of 3: 1;
(2) preparing a polygonatum extract: removing impurities from the polygonatum odoratum raw material, crushing, sieving with a 80-150-mesh sieve, adding purified water with the mass ratio of 5 times of that of the raw material, and soaking for 50min at 40-60 ℃; adding cellulase 2.5 wt% and non-starch polysaccharidase 1.5 wt% into the raw materials, extracting with microwave auxiliary for 10min with microwave power of 300W, and standing for more than 30 min; continuously adding 3 times of purified water into the enzymolysis liquid of the polygonatum odoratum after enzymolysis, then adding 4 mass percent of glucose, 0.4 mass percent of ammonium sulfate, 0.15 mass percent of monopotassium phosphate and 0.01 mass percent of magnesium sulfate into the fermentation liquid, and uniformly stirring; inoculating bacillus into the fermentation liquor, wherein the inoculation amount is 3% of the volume ratio of the fermentation liquor respectively; controlling the temperature to be 28-35 ℃ for aerobic fermentation, wherein the rotating speed of a shaking table is 100-150 r/min, and the fermentation time is 18 h; after fermentation, carrying out solid-liquid separation to obtain a polygonatum odoratum extract; the bacillus is a mixed bacterium of bacillus licheniformis and bacillus subtilis, the bacillus licheniformis and the bacillus subtilis are both occluded in the China general microbiological culture collection center, and the culture collection numbers are CGMCC NO.6544 and CGMCC NO.8955 respectively; the inoculation amount ratio of the bacillus licheniformis and the bacillus subtilis is 1: 1;
(3) the raw materials are matched: the raw materials are accurately mixed according to the proportion of 45 parts of flower plant extract, 32 parts of polygonatum extract, 0.4 part of hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, 3 parts of polyethylene glycol-4003 parts of emulsifier 2 parts, 1.5 parts of thickener, 5 parts of glycerol, 5 parts of grape seed essential oil, 4 parts of squalane, 0.5 part of tocopheryl acetate, 0.2 part of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, 0.2 part of triethanolamine, 2 parts of tranexamic acid and 0.2 part of carbomer;
(4) mixing: mixing flower plant extractive solution, rhizoma Polygonati Odorati extractive solution, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, glycerol, grape seed essential oil, squalane, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, triethanolamine, and tranexamic acid;
(5) thickening: adding a thickening agent and carbomer into the uniformly mixed raw materials;
(6) emulsification: adding polyethylene glycol-400 and an emulsifier, and carrying out emulsification by keeping the temperature for 30min at the temperature of 30-40 ℃;
(7) homogenizing: homogenizing for 10-20 min on a homogenizer;
(8) subpackaging: and subpackaging the homogenized liquid to obtain the skin care cosmetic.
Example 8 determination of antioxidant Capacity of the exemplified skin care cosmetic
Grouping tests: the test was divided into the test groups of examples 1-5, the control group 1 (raw materials only do not contain flower plant extract, and pure water is used instead, the rest is the same as example 1), and the control group 2 (the process for preparing polygonatum odoratum extract does not contain fermentation step, the rest is the same as example 1);
measurement indexes are as follows:
(1) measurement of DPPH scavenging ability: and putting different sample solutions into a 96 micro-porous plate, respectively adding 15 mu L of 0.4mmol/LDPPH solution, then adding 100 mu L of water, uniformly mixing, keeping the mixture in the dark for 30min, and placing the mixture in a 517nm wavelength place of an enzyme labeling instrument to measure the absorbance value. Clearance (%) - (1- (a)1-A2)/A0) × 100. formula A0Absorbance of the DPPH solution alone; a. the1Is the absorbance of the added sample and DPPH solution; a. the2Absolute ethyl alcohol is used for replacing the absorbance of a DPPH solution;
(2)·O2 -determination of the scavenging ability: taking sample solutions with different concentrations to a 96 micro-porous plate, and respectively adding 50 muL of NBT solution 0.15mmol/L, 50 muL of reduced coenzyme I solution 0.46mmol/L and 50 muL of PMS solution 0.06 mmol/L. Mixing, water bathing at 25 deg.C for 5min, and measuring absorbance at 560nm wavelength of microplate reader. Clearance (%) - (1- (a)1-A2)/A0) × 100. formula A0Absorbance for blank control experiment (water instead of polysaccharide solution); a. the1Is the absorbance of the sample experiment; a. the2Is 0.2mAbsorbance of an ol/L phosphate buffer solution (pH7.0) instead of NBT solution;
(3) determination of OH scavenging Capacity: taking different sample solutions to a 96 micro-porous plate, respectively adding 0.75mmol/L o-diazaphenanthrene 50. mu.L, pH7.4 0.2mol/L PBS buffer solution 100. mu.L, 0.75mmol/L FeSO450 μ L of solution and 0.01% H by volume fraction2O2Mixing the solution 50 μ L, standing in 37 deg.C water bath for 30min, detecting absorbance at 536nm wavelength, and removing rate (%) of (1- (A1-A2)/A0) × 100. wherein A is0The absorbance of the sample is replaced by distilled water; a. the1Is the absorbance of the sample after reaction; a. the2For substituting H for sample and distilled water2O2Absorbance of (a);
TABLE 1 Effect of different Process conditions on antioxidant Capacity of anti-aging cosmetic
The experimental result shows that the cosmetic has stronger antioxidant capacity, wherein the selection of the flower plant raw materials and the composition of the polygonatum odoratum fermentation strain have more remarkable influence on the antioxidant capacity of the product. For comparison, example 1 is the best mode of carrying out the invention.
Example 9
The influence of the anti-aging cosmetics on the skin aging of the nude mice in the examples is determined, and the animal grouping and model making method comprises the following steps: the male nude mice were stratified according to body mass, and randomly divided into a normal control group, a model group, and test groups of examples 1-7, each group containing 10 mice. Model group and each sample group were injected with 10% D-galactose 1.0g.kg subcutaneously in the neck and back per day-1Irradiating the mold for 40min at a vertical height of 40cm by using an ultraviolet lamp with the wavelength of 350-400 nm, and continuously molding for 40 d; the normal control group was injected with an equal volume of physiological saline and given normal light. Starting from the 11d of model building, the skin of each group was smeared with the corresponding sample, and the normal control group and the model group were applied with the same volume of physiological saline2 times daily for 30 consecutive days;
and (3) biochemical index determination: after the last administration, the animals are sacrificed to take 1cm multiplied by 1cm of back skin, after being cut into pieces, 9 times of normal saline is added to prepare 10 percent (m/v) of skin homogenate, and after being centrifuged at 900 multiplied by g for 10min, the supernatant is taken for standby. Determining the content of hyaluronic acid, hydroxyproline, total collagen, type III collagen and elastin in the skin according to the method of the kit instruction;
measurement of moisture content in skin: taking 1cm multiplied by 1cm of partial back skin at the end of the experiment, removing epidermis and subcutaneous tissues, and precisely weighing the skin as wet quality; drying in an incubator at 80 ℃ for 48h, and precisely weighing to obtain the dry mass of the skin. Calculating skin moisture content according to the following formula, wherein the skin moisture content (%) ═ (skin wet mass-skin dry mass)/skin wet mass x 100%;
the test results are as follows:
TABLE 2 effects of cosmetics on skin aging in nude mice
The experimental structure shows that the skin-resistant effect of the example 1 on the nude mice is not obviously different from that of a normal group and is extremely obvious from that of a model group. The change of the raw material composition of the cosmetics and the fermentation strain can obviously reduce the anti-skin aging effect of the product.
The above embodiments are only used for illustrating the technical solution of the present invention, and not for limiting the same; although the invention has been described in detail with reference to the foregoing embodiments, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various changes may be made and equivalents may be substituted for elements thereof; such modifications and substitutions do not depart from the spirit and scope of the present invention as set forth in the appended claims.