CN111557882A - 一种组合物及其在制备抗衰老护肤品中的应用 - Google Patents
一种组合物及其在制备抗衰老护肤品中的应用 Download PDFInfo
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- CN111557882A CN111557882A CN202010633202.5A CN202010633202A CN111557882A CN 111557882 A CN111557882 A CN 111557882A CN 202010633202 A CN202010633202 A CN 202010633202A CN 111557882 A CN111557882 A CN 111557882A
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Abstract
本发明涉及护肤品技术领域，尤其涉及一种组合物及其在制备抗衰老护肤品中的应用。本发明提供的组合物包括：人参提取物、酵母提取物、海藻提取物、白藜芦醇、六胜肽等组分。经体外胶原蛋白合成代谢及皮肤含水性实验证实，该组合物可通过减少/延缓胶原蛋白分解、提高皮肤含水量、生物酶活性作用抵抗/清除自由基等途径，以多组分多靶点作用的思路发挥防衰老抗老化功效。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及护肤品技术领域，尤其涉及一种组合物及其在制备抗衰老护肤品中的应用。
背景技术
随着人口老龄化问题的日益严重，衰老相关的疾病的预防与治疗受到广泛关注。衰老是机体随着年龄增长发生的功能及器质性衰退的渐进过程，存在于机体外表面的皮肤是最先表现衰老的组织。皮肤的衰老是综合性的过程，主要包括内源性及外源性两大因素。内源性因素主要是组织器官的功能结构、激素分泌水平等发生改变，而外源性因素主要是紫外线辐射、大气污染物以及其他外源性化学物质损伤等导致的细胞外基质成分(如胶原)降解、DNA损伤修复能力的下降、组织细胞的凋亡，并进一步表现为皮肤弹性下降、松弛形成皱纹、再生修复能力减低、色素沉着等。为延缓皮肤衰老，提供生活质量，皮肤抗衰老产品的需求日益扩大。随着自我保健意识的增强以及生活水平的提高，抗衰老产品的消费群体也表现为年轻化、无性别差异等特点，因此，产品的市场前景良好，潜力巨大。
皮肤是机体与外界环境接触的第一道防线，皮肤衰老是人机体衰老的重要组成部分，也是最为直接的外在表现。虽然衰老这一自然的生理现象无法逆转，早期预防、适当使用护肤品可以实现对皮肤衰老的有效预防和延缓，实现维持年轻态的效果。研究表明机体的衰老及外界环境刺激会导致机体氧化剂抗氧化系统失调，从而产生大量自由基并进一步产生细胞损伤导致衰老。其次，水分的缺失也是导致皮肤衰老、产生细纹的重要原因之一。通过保湿因子/成分的添加可以有效减少皮肤水分的流失、减少细纹，并通过促进局部皮肤代谢增强皮肤弹性延缓衰老。此外，羟脯氨酸是为胶原中特有的氨基酸，约占胶原氨基酸总量的13％。胶原蛋白是体内含量最多的蛋白质，约占人体蛋白质总量1/3，随着动物年龄的增加，组织中羟脯氨酸含量下降。
目前的抗衰老产品大多作用靶点较为单一，没有能够从多个靶点入手，因此这些抗衰老产品的作用也往往是不足的。并且，目前抗衰老产品虽然大多体外实验都表现出良好的活性，但实际上能够渗透皮肤并被吸收的量并不多，因此，也很难在实际应用中起到良好的作用。
发明内容
有鉴于此，本发明要解决的技术问题在于提供一种组合物及其在制备抗衰老护肤品中的应用，该组合物具有良好的清除自由基、促进羟脯氨酸合成的作用，而制成的护肤品具有良好的安全性和渗透效果。
本发明提供的组合物包括如下质量份的组分：
一些实施例中，本发明提供的组合物有如下质量份的组分组成：
一些实施例中，本发明提供的组合物有如下质量份的组分组成：
一些实施例中，本发明提供的组合物有如下质量份的组分组成：
本发明以人参提取物、海藻提取物等天然来源的物质为主要原料，以皮肤衰老的机制为切入点，结合引发皮肤衰老的内外因素，通过增强皮肤DNA修复能力，延缓胶原蛋白分解、自由基清除、抗氧化等多靶点途径，内外结合发挥作用，制备出透皮吸收好、安全有效的抗皮肤衰老的护肤品，实现延缓皮肤衰老、增强皮肤弹性的效果。
本发明所述的组合物在制备清除自由基的产品中的应用。
本发明所述的组合物在制备提高皮肤羟脯氨酸水平的产品中的应用。
本发明所述的组合物在制备抗衰老的护肤品中的应用。
本发明还提供了一种抗衰老的护肤品，其含有本发明所述的组合物。
本发明中，所述护肤品包括如下质量分数的：
本发明中，所述乳化剂为卵磷脂、大豆磷脂、聚氧乙烯(60)氢化蓖麻油、聚氧乙烯(40)氢化蓖麻油、泊洛沙姆188(F68)中至少两种。
本发明中，所述保湿剂为1,2-丙二醇、角鲨烷、丙三醇、聚甘油酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、山梨醇、尿素、透明质酸钠、棕榈酸异丙酯、硫酸软骨素、水解蛋白、精氨酸、亮氨酸、寡肽中至少一种。
本发明中，所述稳定剂为果胶、海藻酸钠、可溶性淀粉、黄原胶、阿拉伯胶、西黄蓍胶中至少一种。
本发明中，所述增稠剂为羧甲基纤维素钠、甲基纤维素、明胶、卡波姆中至少一种。
本发明所述的护肤品中还包括pH调节剂，所述pH调节剂选自柠檬酸钠、乳酸钠；所述护肤品的pH值为6.5～6.8。
本发明所述的护肤品由如下质量分数的组分组成：
或由如下质量分数的组分组成：
或由如下质量分数的组分组成：
本发明所述护肤品的制备方法，包括：
将人参提取物、啤酒酵母提取物、海藻提取物、白藜芦醇、茶多酚、六胜肽、玻色因、泛醇、酯化维生素C、乳化剂、稳定剂、保湿剂、防腐剂与去离子水混合，加热至40℃～45℃，溶解，得I相；
用pH调节剂调节I相pH至6.5～6.8，得II相；
将II相降温至30℃～35℃，60～90Mpa均质，循环8～12次，制得护肤品A；
或者在护肤皮A中加入增稠剂，溶胀8～12h后，500～800rpm搅拌溶解，制得护肤品B。
本发明提供的组合物包括：人参提取物、酵母提取物、海藻提取物、白藜芦醇、六胜肽等。经体外胶原蛋白合成代谢及皮肤含水性实验证实，该组合物可通过减少/延缓胶原蛋白分解、提高皮肤含水量、生物酶活性作用抵抗/清除自由基等途径，以多组分多靶点作用的思路发挥防衰老抗老化功效。在化妆品中，本发明采用的基质及制备工艺都使得能够获得更小粒径的颗粒，且具有良好的皮肤渗透性，产品稳定好。在化妆品中，根据实际需求加入增稠剂，可制备得到固体形态的微乳凝胶产品，较液体态产品停留时间更长，更适用于眼部、额头、法令纹等局部护肤需求。
具体实施方式
本发明提供了一种组合物及其在制备抗衰老护肤品中的应用。，本领域技术人员可以借鉴本文内容，适当改进工艺参数实现。特别需要指出的是，所有类似的替换和改动对本领域技术人员来说是显而易见的，它们都被视为包括在本发明。本发明的方法及应用已经通过较佳实施例进行了描述，相关人员明显能在不脱离本发明内容、精神和范围内对本文的方法和应用进行改动或适当变更与组合，来实现和应用本发明技术。
本发明采用的试材皆为普通市售品，皆可于市场购得。
其中，所述人参提取物为吉林的林下参地上部分提取物，活性成分为人参皂甙，来自其地上茎叶的水提成分；
自由基学说是目前公认的衰老学说之一，即自由基的产生所导致的细胞损伤是皮肤衰老的主要原因之一。人体代谢过程中会产生具有高度活性的自由基。随着人体的衰老，体内自由基清除效率减低，导致自由基过量。此外日光中的紫外线及短波长辐射可通过激活胶原蛋白水解酶(MMPs)引发真皮层胶原蛋白和弹性纤维分解，导致皮肤胶原蛋白减少、弹性下降出现皱纹及色素沉着。林下参提取物中Rb1和Rg1、白藜芦醇、茶多酚等成分可防止光诱导角质细胞中ROS的产生，保护细胞线粒体的基因及结构完整性、增加细胞中超氧化物歧化酶(SOD)、谷胱甘肽过氧化物酶(GSH-PX)等蛋白活性，通过修复及清除双重机制保护因照射导致氧化受损的细胞，有效降低细胞的氧化损伤，实现抗老化效果。林下参提取物中含有多种人参皂甙，具有调节衰老基因和免疫系统的作用。有研究表明，人参皂甙可促进高代龄成纤维细胞的增殖，调节Cyclin DI基因的表达，提高细胞活性(人参皂甙对不同代龄人胚成纤维细胞的增殖及CyclinDI基因表达的影响，中国中医基础医学杂志，2002,8(3)41-44)此外，人参皂甙中主要活性成分Rg1可能通过上调CyclinE及CDK2的表达，使细胞进入S期从而发挥抗衰老作用。本发明中加入林下参提取物，可以通过调节表皮细胞的衰老基因及代谢功能，实现延缓衰老增强皮肤免疫力的效果。
所述啤酒酵母提取物的活性成分包括活性多肽、核苷酸、β葡聚糖等；
所述海藻提取物的活性成分为海藻多糖，来自褐藻科植物及褐藻的提取物，包括藻酸、褐藻胶、岩藻聚糖等；
下面结合实施例，进一步阐述本发明：
实施例1
将林下参提取物2.8g，啤酒酵母提取物1.5g，海藻提取物1.1g，白藜芦醇0.9g，茶多酚0.5g，六胜肽1.5g，玻色因0.6g，泛醇1.0g，酯化维生素C 0.5g，Cremophor RH60 3.5g，泊洛沙姆188(F68)1.8g，卵磷脂1.8g，丙三醇1.5g，透明质酸2.5g，果胶0.3g，苯氧乙醇0.2g加入去离子水中混合，加热至45℃，溶解，得I相；
用pH调节剂乳酸调节I相pH至6.5，得II相；
将II相降温至30℃，置于高压均质机中均质，90Mpa，循环8次，得微乳液护肤品；
粒度仪测定该微乳制剂中，颗粒的平均粒径为246nm，3750rpm离心15min无分层。
实施例2
将林下参提取物3.5g，啤酒酵母提取物1.0g，海藻提取物1.8g，白藜芦醇1.8g，茶多酚1.0g，六胜肽0.8g，玻色因0.8g，泛醇0.5g，酯化维生素C 0.9g，大豆磷脂0.5g，泊洛沙姆188(F68)2.0g，卵磷脂1.2g，角鲨烷1.0g，水解蛋白1.5g，海藻酸钠0.5g，苯氧乙醇0.5g加入去离子水中混合，加热至40℃，溶解，得I相；
用pH调节剂乳酸钠调节pH至6.8，得II相；
将II相降温至35℃，置于高压均质机中均质，60Mpa，循环12次，得微乳液；
将卡波姆4g铺散放入100mL微乳液中，过夜溶胀，700rpm搅拌溶解，得抗衰老微乳凝胶。固态产品无需测定粒径
实施例3
将林下参提取物4.0g，啤酒酵母提取物1.5g，海藻提取物1.5g，白藜芦醇1.0g，茶多酚1.5g，玻色因1.0g，泛醇0.8g，酯化维生素C 1.2g，大豆磷脂1.5g，Cremophor RH402.5g，卵磷脂0.8g，角鲨烷1.0g，亮氨酸0.9g，阿拉伯胶0.8g，苯氧乙醇1.0g加入去离子水中混合，加热至40℃，溶解，得I相
用pH调节剂乳酸钠调节pH至6.8，得II相；
将II相降温至35℃，置于高压均质机中均质，80Mpa，循环10次，得微乳液。
对比例1
将林下参提取物2.8g，啤酒酵母提取物1.5g，海藻提取物1.1g，白藜芦醇0.9g，茶多酚0.5g，玻色因0.6g，泛醇1.0g，酯化维生素C 0.5g，Cremophor RH60 3.5g，泊洛沙姆188(F68)1.8g，卵磷脂1.8g，丙三醇1.5g，透明质酸2.5g，果胶0.3g，苯氧乙醇0.2g加入去离子水中混合，加热至45℃，溶解，得I相
用pH调节剂乳酸调节pH至6.8，得II相；
将II相降温至35℃，置于高压均质机中均质，90Mpa，循环10次，得微乳液。
对比例2
将啤酒酵母提取物1.0g，海藻提取物1.8g，白藜芦醇1.8g，茶多酚1.0g，六胜肽0.8g，玻色因0.8g，泛醇0.5g，酯化维生素C 0.9g，大豆磷脂0.5g，泊洛沙姆188(F68)2.0g，卵磷脂1.2g，角鲨烷1.0g，水解蛋白1.5g，海藻酸钠0.5g，苯氧乙醇0.5g加入去离子水中混合，加热至40℃，溶解，得I相
用pH调节剂乳酸钠调节pH至6.8，得II相；
将II相降温至35℃，置于高压均质机中均质，80Mpa，循环10次，得微乳液。
功效验证
1、选用5只新西兰大耳白，备皮，采用自身左右侧对比法，将实例1～3和对比例1～2制备所得抗衰老护肤复合物按国家实验药品监督管理局发布的皮肤刺激性实验要求，参比制剂为无菌水或生理盐水。
采用同一部位一日三次涂抹，连续1周，参照皮肤刺激反应评分标准，进行刺激强度评价。
结果显示，5只实验动物均无红斑、局部水肿出现。实验组与对照组平均值无显著性差异。本发明所得产品无皮肤刺激性、安全性好。
2、选用离体大鼠背部皮肤(1.5cm×1.5cm)，备皮，按2015版《中华人民共和国药典》体外释放度实验方法，采用Franz扩散池测定实施例1～3和对比例1～2样品的透皮吸收率，每个样品平行三个实验。并于涂布后1、2、4、8、12h取样3ml，同时补液，采用高效液相法(HPLC)测定接受池中人参皂甙Rg1的含量，并计算8h累计皮肤渗透量。实施例1～3三个样品的累计渗透量依次为84.63±1.25％，83.64±2.38％，81.85±2.63％；对比例1～2两个样品的累计渗透量依次为82.45±1.67％，83.04±1.89％。各组配方均具有良好的皮肤透过率。
3、选用SD大鼠5只，被毛，颈背部皮肤皮下注射D-半乳糖125mg/kg/day，连续给药2周，制得衰老模型。采用自身对照法，通过测定大鼠皮肤中羟脯氨酸含量(方法参见归素膏对衰老小鼠皮肤羟脯氨酸含量及病理学变化的影响，中国中医药科技，2014,5(21)：506-507)评价实施例1～3和对比例1～2样品的对皮肤胶原蛋白代谢的影响，参比制剂为市售维生素E乳液。连续连续涂抹4周后，分别切取1cm×1cm的实验组及对照组皮肤，样本水解后，测定皮肤样本中羟脯氨酸的含量。结果表明：实施例1～3样本中羟脯氨酸含量依次为1.46±0.17μg/mg，1.51±0.13μg/mg，1.21±0.20μg/mg，对比例1～2样本中羟脯氨酸含量依次为1.26±0.19μg/mg，1.32±0.23μg/mg。各组收拾样品均较对照组(1.01±0.16μg/mg)有显著性提高。相对于实施例3和对比例1～2，全组分样品实施例1、2具有更显著性提高羟脯氨酸含量的效果(p<0.05)，证明其具有更好的抗衰老效果。
4、选用DPPH自由基清除率的测定方法(方法参见SEONG S.H.,SEOG G.L.,YONGC.,et al.Antioxidant activity of crude extract and pure compounds of Acerginnala Mix.[J]Bull Korean Chem Soc,2001,25(3):389-391)评价实施例1～3和对比例1～2制备所得各样品的体外抗氧化性能。结果表明，同等用量下5个样品均具有良好的自由基清除作用，实施例1～3样本自由基清除率依次为46.02％、42.89％、31.64％，对比例1～2样品的自由基清除率依次为34.81％，35.24％。
经统计学分析，相对于实施例3或对比例1～2而言，全组分配方实施例1～2制得的组合物具有更显著的自由基清除效果(p<0.05)。
以上仅是本发明的优选实施方式，应当指出，对于本技术领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明原理的前提下，还可以做出若干改进和润饰，这些改进和润饰也应视为本发明的保护范围。
Claims (10)
1.一种组合物，其特征在于，包括如下质量份的组分：
2.权利要求1所述的组合物在制备清除自由基的产品中的应用。
3.权利要求1所述的组合物在制备提高皮肤羟脯氨酸水平的产品中的应用。
4.权利要求1所述的组合物在制备抗衰老的护肤品中的应用。
5.一种抗衰老的护肤品，其特征在于，含有权利要求1所述的组合物。
6.根据权利要求5所述的护肤品，其特征碍于，包括如下质量分数的：
7.根据权利要求6所述的护肤品，其特征在于，
所述乳化剂为卵磷脂、大豆磷脂、聚氧乙烯(60)氢化蓖麻油、聚氧乙烯(40)氢化蓖麻油、泊洛沙姆188(F68)中至少两种；
所述保湿剂为1,2-丙二醇、角鲨烷、丙三醇、聚甘油酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、山梨醇、尿素、透明质酸钠、棕榈酸异丙酯、硫酸软骨素、水解蛋白、精氨酸、亮氨酸、寡肽中至少一种；
所述稳定剂为果胶、海藻酸钠、可溶性淀粉、黄原胶、阿拉伯胶、西黄蓍胶中至少一种；
所述增稠剂为羧甲基纤维素钠、甲基纤维素、明胶、卡波姆中至少一种。
8.根据权利要求5～7所述的护肤品，其特征在于，还包括pH调节剂，所述pH调节剂选自柠檬酸钠、乳酸钠；所述护肤品的pH值为6.5～6.8。
9.根据权利要求5～8任一项所述的护肤品，其特征在于，由如下质量分数的组分组成：
或由如下质量分数的组分组成：
或由如下质量分数的组分组成：
10.权利要求5～9任一项所述护肤品的制备方法，其特征在于，包括：
将人参提取物、啤酒酵母提取物、海藻提取物、白藜芦醇、茶多酚、六胜肽、玻色因、泛醇、酯化维生素C、乳化剂、稳定剂、保湿剂、防腐剂与去离子水混合，加热至40℃～45℃，溶解，得I相；
用pH调节剂调节I相pH至6.5～6.8，得II相；
将II相降温至30℃～35℃，60～90Mpa均质，循环8～12次，制得护肤品A；
或者在护肤皮A中加入增稠剂，溶胀8～12h后，500～800rpm搅拌溶解，制得护肤品B。
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| US20050147631A1 (en) * | 2004-01-07 | 2005-07-07 | Goldstein Mindy S. | Cosmetic composition and method for retarding hair growth |
| CN110433122A (zh) * | 2019-09-11 | 2019-11-12 | 吉林省强参生物技术有限公司 | 一种组合物及其在制备淡斑美白的护肤品中的应用 |
| CN110755333A (zh) * | 2019-12-03 | 2020-02-07 | 吉林省强参生物技术有限公司 | 一种组合物及其在制备防蓝光抗衰老的护肤品中的应用 |
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| US20050147631A1 (en) * | 2004-01-07 | 2005-07-07 | Goldstein Mindy S. | Cosmetic composition and method for retarding hair growth |
| CN110433122A (zh) * | 2019-09-11 | 2019-11-12 | 吉林省强参生物技术有限公司 | 一种组合物及其在制备淡斑美白的护肤品中的应用 |
| CN110755333A (zh) * | 2019-12-03 | 2020-02-07 | 吉林省强参生物技术有限公司 | 一种组合物及其在制备防蓝光抗衰老的护肤品中的应用 |
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