CN111419773A - 一种皮肤抗衰修复植物提取物组合物及应用与含该组合物的精华乳 - Google Patents
一种皮肤抗衰修复植物提取物组合物及应用与含该组合物的精华乳 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明提供一种皮肤抗衰修复植物提取物组合物及应用与含该组合物的精华乳,所述植物提取物组合物包括解毒抗敏组合物和修复调理组合物,所述解毒抗敏组合物包括:20‑250份的紫苏叶提取物,18‑160份的马缨丹叶提取物和70‑200份的三叶鬼针草提取物;所述修复调理组合物包括:50‑400份欧洲七叶树提取物、60‑400份的麝香草提取物、30‑360份的库拉索芦荟提取物、30‑340份的积雪草提取物和14‑120份的水飞蓟提取物。本发明采用解毒抗敏组合物和修复调理组合物复配形成的植物提取物组合物,从内纠正皮肤的不正确状态,扶正固本,修复损伤。并且解毒抗敏组合物和修复调理组合物协同作用具有很强的抗氧化性,有效抵抗皮肤衰老。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及植物提取物组合物领域,特别涉及一种皮肤抗衰修复植物提取物组合物及应用与含该组合物的精华乳。
背景技术
随着年龄的增长,皮肤开始呈现衰老状态,主要包括皮肤中的胶原蛋白、弹性蛋白、粘多糖等含量不同程度的降低,供应皮肤营养的血管萎缩,血管壁弹性降低,皮肤表皮逐渐变薄、隆起,皮下脂肪减少,直观表现为皱纹、黄褐斑及老年斑的出现。
衰老是由基因设定的机体发展的一种活跃延续,这种看法已经被部分否定。现在,衰老被公认是机体的修复潜能和它所遭受的伤害频率和强度之间失去平衡。皮肤是暴露于环境损害中最多的器官,紫外线辐射和体内新陈代谢所产生的自由基被认为是加快细胞蛋白,脂质,多糖和DNA老化的最重要的有害物质。
具体地,一、自由基的增多,自由基(freeradical)是由于共价键均裂而产生的带有不配对电子的原子或分子,具有高度的化学活性,与不饱和脂类发生过氧化生成过氧化脂质(Lipidperoxide,LPO),其终产物丙二醛(malondialdehyde,MDA)能与活细胞的大部分物质发生反应,导致生物膜通透性降低,损伤DNA分子,使细胞死亡或发生突变。二、日光中的中波紫外线(UVB)和长波紫外线(UVA)会导致皮肤光老化。而紫外线辐射主要通过下列机制引起皮肤老化:①损伤DNA;②进行胶原的交联;③通过诱导抗原刺激反应的抑制途径而降低免疫应答;④产生高度反应的自由基与各种细胞内结构相互作用而造成细胞和组织的损伤;⑤直接抑制表皮朗格汉氏细胞的功能,引起光免疫抑制,使皮肤的免疫功能减弱。除此之外非酶糖基化、代谢失调、基质金属蛋白酶衰老等也会影响肌肤衰老。
这些因素的广泛研究使得抗衰老护肤品应运而生。在防衰老化妆品中有的为了达到很好的防衰老效果使用抗氧化性强的工业成分,短时见效快但是长时间使用对人体危害极大。植物提取物作为活性成分配制的化妆品克服了传统化妆品依赖化学合成品的缺点,使产品的安全性能更高;天然组分更容易被皮肤吸收,使产品的作用效果更显著;功能性更突出。植物提取物作为天然弹性蛋白酶抑制剂是近年来研究的热点,如黄芩、地榆、海巴戟种子、辣木树、水禾、连翘、丹参、当归等。
但单一植物提取物的功效有限,在浩瀚的植物中寻找更优异能够综合调理的植物提取物组合,以及采用可以与植物提取物组合复配形成性能更加强大、全面、优良的组合物,乃是本领域需要突破的研究热点。
发明内容
有鉴于此,为了克服现有技术的不足,本发明提供一种皮肤抗衰修复植物提取物组合物。
本发明提供的植物提取物组合物包括解毒抗敏组合物和修复调理组合物,所述解毒抗敏组合物包括:20-250份的紫苏叶提取物,18-160份的马缨丹叶提取物和70-200份的三叶鬼针草提取物;所述修复调理组合物包括:50-400份欧洲七叶树提取物、60-400份的麝香草提取物、30-360份的库拉索芦荟提取物、30-340份的积雪草提取物和14-120份的水飞蓟提取物。
优选地,所述组合物由以下重量份的植物提取物组成:210-250份的紫苏叶提取物、100-140份的马缨丹叶提取物、160-200份的三叶鬼针草提取物、320-360份欧洲七叶树提取物、300-340份的麝香草提取物、270-310份的库拉索芦荟提取物、240-280份的积雪草提取物和60-100份的水飞蓟提取物。
本发明还提供上述组合物或优选组合物在制备护肤品中的应用。
本发明还提供一种皮肤抗衰修复精华乳,按质量百分比计,所述精华乳包括8-32%上述植物提取物组合物或优选组合物,13-26%的精华乳基底成分,其余为去离子水。
进一步,按质量百分比计,所述精华乳包括20-30%上述植物提取物组合物或优选组合物,15-20%的精华乳基底成分,其余为去离子水。
进一步,所述精华乳按质量百分比计,还包括抗氧化活性成分,所述抗氧化活性成分由0.02-0.06%激动素、2-4%茶多酚、0.5-1%羟癸基泛醌、1-5%胶态燕麦粉和0.5-1.5%生育酚组成。
进一步,所述精华乳按质量百分比计,还包括促进微循环活性成分和天然保湿活性因子,所述促进微循环活性成分由0.1-0.3%精氨酸、0.1-1.5%腺苷和0.01-1%生物素组成;所述天然保湿活性因子由0.01-0.08%透明质酸钠和0.2-0.5%野生芒果果仁脂组成。
进一步,所述精华乳还添加质量百分数1%的天然美白成分四氢姜黄素。
进一步,所述精华乳基底成分按重量份计,由80份甘油、10份丁二醇、10份丙二醇、10份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、10份聚二甲基硅氧烷、10份氢化椰油酸甘油酯、10份异壬酸异壬酯、2份硬脂醇、10份鲸蜡醇、10份霍霍巴酯类、2份硬脂酸甘油酯、2份氢化卵磷脂、30份硬脂醇聚醚-2、10份硬脂醇聚醚-21、10份聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯、10份丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、2份黄原胶、10份羟乙基纤维素、1份二氧化钛、5份苯氧乙醇,10份EDTA二钠、10份氯苯甘醚、10份1,2戊二醇、10份乙基己基甘油、10份对羟基苯乙酮、10份山梨酸钾、10份着色剂CI 19140、10份着色剂CI 14700和10份香精组成。
本发明还提供上述皮肤抗衰修复精华乳的制备方法,所述制备方法包括:
1)将水加入到水相锅中,搅拌条件下按比例加入甘油、丁二醇、丙二醇、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、黄原胶,羟乙基纤维素、二氧化钛、苯氧乙醇、对羟基苯乙酮、EDTA二钠、1,2戊二醇、然后搅拌加热至75~85℃,得水相溶液;
2)将辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、聚二甲基硅氧烷、氢化椰油酸甘油酯、异壬酸异壬酯、硬脂醇、鲸蜡醇、霍霍巴酯类、硬脂酸甘油酯、氢化卵磷脂、硬脂醇聚醚-2、硬脂醇聚醚-21、聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯、氯苯甘醚、乙基己基甘油按比例加入到油相锅中,加热至75~85℃使物料熔化,得油相溶液;
3)将水相溶液用真空抽吸到均质液化机的主锅中,在搅拌下,将油相溶液用真空抽吸到均质液化机的主锅中,打开均质液化机,在2800r/min转速下均质7~10分钟;均质后,以40r/min搅拌,在80℃保温5分钟;
4)保温后,打开冷却水,将步骤3)所得混合物料冷却至40-45℃,加入植物提取物组合物、抗氧化活性成分、天然保湿活性因子、促进微循环活性成分和四氢姜黄素,充分搅拌均匀;
5)在步骤4)所得物料中加入山梨酸钾、着色剂CI 19140、着色剂CI 14700和香精;
搅拌均匀,静止1小时后继续搅拌5~10分钟,再调节pH为6.0-6.5;结束。
本发明中的提取物:是指一种通过将所欲萃取的物质浸泡或混合于溶剂中所获得的溶液。萃取过程可在选择适合的溶剂的帮助下进行,如:水、乙醇、乙醇/水混合物、甲醇、丙醇、丁醇、氯仿、丙酮或其他有机溶剂,并通过离析、渗滤、煎煮、逆流萃取、超声波、微波、超临界流体萃取的方法得到提取物,萃取物可进一步蒸发浓缩,得到浸膏及干燥的提取物。
本发明提供的皮肤抗衰修复植物提取物组合物,其中,
解毒抗敏组合物:紫苏叶舒缓过敏肌肤;三叶鬼针草解毒消肿,减少红血丝,安抚发红肌肤;马缨丹清热解毒,祛风止痒舒缓过敏肌肤瘙痒症状,特别针对痘痘肌、过敏性肌肤和激素脸。
修复调理组合物:
欧洲七叶树提取物加速肌肤细胞自我修复的能力,改善微循环,维持细胞的正常代谢。其中的七叶皂素能维护血管的健康,增加血液循环,减少毛细血管的渗透,减少红血丝;以及因为血管循环不畅导致的眼部浮肿等问题。其中七叶皂素可以修复炎症,促进伤口愈合:通过活性白细胞,达到消除水肿,祛痘修复的效果,还能对抗皮肤炎症,促进伤口愈合。七叶皂素可以抗衰老七叶皂素中含有对抗自由基,对抗氧化的功效,经常使用可以有效抗衰老,改善肌肤的微循环。
麝香草提取物对环AMP磷酸二酯酶活性的抑制和对精氨酸酶活性的促进,显示其具有抗炎和愈合伤口的作用;能消除自由基,可用作抗氧化剂,具有抗衰老功效;同时还用作皮肤血红丝预防剂、抗菌去屑剂、保湿剂和驱虫剂。
库拉索芦荟提取物的主要成分为多糖类、蒽醌类化合物、蛋白质、维生素、矿物质等。可全面修复人体受损组织,迅速排除体内各种毒素,增强机体免疫力、延缓肌肤衰老,同时可分解脂肪、瘦身、美白、改善单纯性肥胖。
积雪草提取物表现出广谱的生物活性,最重要的是抗氧化,抗炎,抗菌和抗癌活性。在皮肤病学中,积雪草提取物用于治疗小伤口、增值性瘢痕、烧伤、牛皮癣等。积雪草提取物可以刺激成纤维细胞增殖并激活SMAD信号传导途径,因此可以增加I型胶原蛋白的产生以及减少妊娠纹和炎症反应的形成。
水飞蓟素具有抗辐射、抗衰老、防治动脉硬化、延缓皮肤老化等功效。
本发明的有益效果在于:
1.本发明采用解毒抗敏组合物和修复调理组合物复配形成的植物提取物组合物,从内在纠正皮肤的不正确状态,扶正固本,修复损伤。
2.本发明的解毒抗敏组合物和修复调理组合物协同作用具有很强的抗氧化性,有效抵抗皮肤衰老。
3.本发明的植物提取物组合物与抗氧化活性成分、天然保湿活性因子、促进微循环活性成分,针对皮肤衰老产生的多种机理进行复配,并对复配成分进行创新,得到具有协同增效作用的的配方组合,该组合的抗衰老效果远远强于配方中各单一成分之和。本发明生产工艺简单,适合规模化生产,增强抗衰老功效,提高产品稳定性;促进功效成分形成分子间交联,提高分子量,增强保湿活性;促使功效成分间发生相互作用,产生协同增效的效果;促使功效成分镶嵌在大分子复合物中,起到缓释的作用。而采用该组合物配制的各类化妆品均具有良好的抗衰修复功效。
具体实施方式:
以下实施例是对本发明的解释而本发明并不局限于以下实施例。
植物提取物组合物的制备:
实施例1:
按重量称取210份紫苏叶提取物、120份的马缨丹叶提取物、180份的三叶鬼针草提取物、340份欧洲七叶树提取物、320份的麝香草提取物、290份的库拉索芦荟提取物、260份的积雪草提取物和80份的水飞蓟提取物,混合均匀,形成植物提取物组合物。
实施例2:
按重量称取250份紫苏叶提取物、160份的马缨丹叶提取物、200份的三叶鬼针草提取物、400份欧洲七叶树提取物、400份的麝香草提取物、360份的库拉索芦荟提取物、340份的积雪草提取物120份的水飞蓟提取物,混合均匀,形成植物提取物组合物。
实施例3:
按重量称取40份紫苏叶提取物、29份的马缨丹叶提取物、86份的三叶鬼针草提取物、72份欧洲七叶树提取物、78份的麝香草提取物、54份的库拉索芦荟提取物、60份的积雪草提取物和26份的水飞蓟提取物,混合均匀,形成植物提取物组合物。
实施例4:
按重量称取20份紫苏叶提取物、18份的马缨丹叶提取物、70份的三叶鬼针草提取物、50份欧洲七叶树提取物、60份的麝香草提取物、30份的库拉索芦荟提取物、30份的积雪草提取物和14份的水飞蓟提取物,混合均匀,形成植物提取物组合物。
实施例5:
按重量称取60份紫苏叶提取物、120份的马缨丹叶提取物、90份的三叶鬼针草提取物、250份欧洲七叶树提取物、120份的麝香草提取物、210份的库拉索芦荟提取物、50份的积雪草提取物和80份的水飞蓟提取物,混合均匀,形成植物提取物组合物。
实施例6:
按重量称取230份紫苏叶提取物、142份的马缨丹叶提取物、186份的三叶鬼针草提取物、361份欧洲七叶树提取物、383份的麝香草提取物、324份的库拉索芦荟提取物、315份的积雪草提取物和96份的水飞蓟提取物,混合均匀,形成植物提取物组合物。
实施例7:
按重量称取48份紫苏叶提取物、62份的马缨丹叶提取物、87份的三叶鬼针草提取物、62份欧洲七叶树提取物、86份的麝香草提取物、62份的库拉索芦荟提取物、67份的积雪草提取物和23份的水飞蓟提取物,混合均匀,形成植物提取物组合物。
实施例8:
按重量称取120份紫苏叶提取物、83份的马缨丹叶提取物、138份的三叶鬼针草提取物、184份欧洲七叶树提取物、210份的麝香草提取物、140份的库拉索芦荟提取物、175份的积雪草提取物和62份的水飞蓟提取物,混合均匀,形成植物提取物组合物。
精华乳基底成分的制备:
实施例9:
按重量份称取80份甘油、10份丁二醇、10份丙二醇、10份丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、2份黄原胶,10份羟乙基纤维素、1份二氧化钛、5份苯氧乙醇、10份对羟基苯乙酮、10份EDTA二钠、10份1,2戊二醇,混合均匀,形成精华乳基底成份1。
按重量份称取10份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、10份聚二甲基硅氧烷、10份氢化椰油酸甘油酯、10份异壬酸异壬酯、2份硬脂醇、10份鲸蜡醇、10份霍霍巴酯类、2份硬脂酸甘油酯、2份氢化卵磷脂、30份硬脂醇聚醚-2、10份硬脂醇聚醚-21、10份聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯、10份氯苯甘醚、10份乙基己基甘油、混合均匀,形成精华乳基底成份2。
按重量份称取10份山梨酸钾、10份着色剂CI 19140、10份着色剂CI 14700和10份香精,混合均匀,形成精华乳基底成份3。
抗衰修复精华乳的制备:
实施例10
按照以下步骤制备本发明的抗衰修复精华乳:
1)将1404g水加入到水相锅中,搅拌条件下加入158g实施例9的精华乳基底成份1;然后搅拌加热至75~85℃,得水相溶液;
2)将139g实施例9的精华乳基底成份2加入到油相锅中,加热至75~85℃使物料熔化,得油相溶液;
3)将水相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,在搅拌下,将油相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,打开均质乳化机,在2800r/min转速下均质7~10分钟;均质后,以40r/min搅拌,在80℃保温5分钟;
4)保温后,打开冷却水,将步骤3)所得混合物料冷却至40-45℃,加入832g实施例1的植物提取物组合物和26克四氢姜黄素,充分搅拌均匀;
5)在步骤4)所得物料中加入41g实施例9的精华乳基底成份3;搅拌均匀,静止1小时后继续搅拌5~10分钟,再调节pH为6.0-6.5;结束。
实施例11
按照以下步骤制备本发明的抗衰修复精华乳:
1)将1414g水加入到水相锅中,搅拌条件下加入162g实施例9的精华乳基底成份1;然后搅拌加热至75~85℃,得水相溶液;
2)将138g实施例9的精华乳基底成份2加入到油相锅中,加热至75~85℃使物料熔化,得油相溶液;
3)将水相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,在搅拌下,将油相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,打开均质乳化机,在2800r/min转速下均质7~10分钟;均质后,以40r/min搅拌,在80℃保温5分钟;
4)保温后,打开冷却水,将步骤3)所得混合物料冷却至40-45℃,加入643g实施例
2的植物提取物组合物、0.771g激动素、77.1g茶多酚、18.2g羟癸基泛醌、51.4g胶态燕麦粉、28.6g生育酚和26克四氢姜黄素,充分搅拌均匀;
5)在步骤4)所得物料中加入41g实施例9的精华乳基底成份3;搅拌均匀,静止1小时后继续搅拌5~10分钟,再调节pH为6.0-6.5;结束。
实施例12
按照以下步骤制备本发明的抗衰修复精华乳:
1)将1470g水加入到水相锅中,搅拌条件下加入319g实施例9的精华乳基底成份1;然后搅拌加热至75~85℃,得水相溶液;
2)将275g实施例9的精华乳基底成份2加入到油相锅中,加热至75~85℃使物料熔化,得油相溶液;
3)将水相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,在搅拌下,将油相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,打开均质乳化机,在2800r/min转速下均质7~10分钟;均质后,以40r/min搅拌,在80℃保温5分钟;
4)保温后,打开冷却水,将步骤3)所得混合物料冷却至40-45℃,加入208g实施例
3的植物提取物组合物、0.52g激动素、77.1g茶多酚、18g羟癸基泛醌、51.4g胶态燕麦粉、15.6g生育酚、5.2g精氨酸、39g腺苷、26g生物素、2g透明质酸钠和13g野生芒果果仁脂,充分搅拌均匀;
5)在步骤4)所得物料中加入80g实施例9的精华乳基底成份3;搅拌均匀,静止1小时后继续搅拌5~10分钟,再调节pH为6.0-6.5;结束。
实施例13
按照以下步骤制备本发明的抗衰修复精华乳:
1)将1534g水加入到水相锅中,搅拌条件下加入246g实施例9的精华乳基底成份1;然后搅拌加热至75~85℃,得水相溶液;
2)将212g实施例9的精华乳基底成份2加入到油相锅中,加热至75~85℃使物料熔化,得油相溶液;
3)将水相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,在搅拌下,将油相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,打开均质乳化机,在2800r/min转速下均质7~10分钟;均质后,以40r/min搅拌,在80℃保温5分钟;
4)保温后,打开冷却水,将步骤3)所得混合物料冷却至40-45℃,加入546g实施例
4植物提取物组合物,充分搅拌均匀;
5)在步骤4)所得物料中加入62g实施例9的精华乳基底成份3;搅拌均匀,静止1小时后继续搅拌5~10分钟,再调节pH为6.0-6.5;结束。
实施例14
按照以下步骤制备本发明的抗衰修复精华乳:
1)将1147g水加入到水相锅中,搅拌条件下加入184g实施例9的精华乳基底成份1;然后搅拌加热至75~85℃,得水相溶液;
2)将159g实施例9的精华乳基底成份2加入到油相锅中,加热至75~85℃使物料熔化,得油相溶液;
3)将水相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,在搅拌下,将油相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,打开均质乳化机,在2800r/min转速下均质7~10分钟;均质后,以40r/min搅拌,在80℃保温5分钟;
4)保温后,打开冷却水,将步骤3)所得混合物料冷却至40-45℃,加入780g实施例
5的植物提取物组合物、1.04g激动素、52g茶多酚、23.4g羟癸基泛醌、104g胶态燕麦粉、18.2g生育酚、5.2g精氨酸、39g腺苷、2g生物素、1.56g透明质酸钠、10.4野生芒果果仁脂和26克四氢姜黄素,充分搅拌均匀;
5)在步骤4)所得物料中加入47g实施例9的精华乳基底成份3;搅拌均匀,静止1小时后继续搅拌5~10分钟,再调节pH为6.0-6.5;结束。
实施例15
按照以下步骤制备本发明的抗衰修复精华乳:
1)将1488g水加入到水相锅中,搅拌条件下加入258g实施例9的精华乳基底成份1;然后搅拌加热至75~85℃,得水相溶液;
2)将223g实施例9的精华乳基底成份2加入到油相锅中,加热至75~85℃使物料熔化,得油相溶液;
3)将水相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,在搅拌下,将油相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,打开均质乳化机,在2800r/min转速下均质7~10分钟;均质后,以40r/min搅拌,在80℃保温5分钟;
4)保温后,打开冷却水,将步骤3)所得混合物料冷却至40-45℃,加入520g实施例6的植物提取物组合物、5.2g精氨酸、26g腺苷、2.08g生物素、1.82g透明质酸钠和10.4g野生芒果果仁脂,充分搅拌均匀;
5)在步骤4)所得物料中加入65.4g实施例9的精华乳基底成份3;搅拌均匀,静止1小时后继续搅拌5~10分钟,再调节pH为6.0-6.5;结束。
实施例16
按照以下步骤制备本发明的抗衰修复精华乳:
1)将1805g水加入到水相锅中,搅拌条件下加入158g实施例9的精华乳基底成份1;然后搅拌加热至75~85℃,得水相溶液;
2)将139g实施例9的精华乳基底成份2加入到油相锅中,加热至75~85℃使物料熔化,得油相溶液;
3)将水相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,在搅拌下,将油相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,打开均质乳化机,在2800r/min转速下均质7~10分钟;均质后,以40r/min搅拌,在80℃保温5分钟;
4)保温后,打开冷却水,将步骤3)所得混合物料冷却至40-45℃,加入390g实施例7的植物提取物组合物、3.9g精氨酸、23.4g腺苷、2.6g生物素、1.56g透明质酸钠、9.1野生芒果果仁脂和26克四氢姜黄素,充分搅拌均匀;
5)在步骤4)所得物料中加入41g实施例9的精华乳基底成份3;搅拌均匀,静止1小时后继续搅拌5~10分钟,再调节pH为6.0-6.5;结束。
实施例17
按照以下步骤制备本发明的抗衰修复精华乳:
1)将1280g水加入到水相锅中,搅拌条件下加入158g实施例9的精华乳基底成份1;然后搅拌加热至75~85℃,得水相溶液;
2)将139g实施例9的精华乳基底成份2加入到油相锅中,加热至75~85℃使物料熔化,得油相溶液;
3)将水相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,在搅拌下,将油相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,打开均质乳化机,在2800r/min转速下均质7~10分钟;均质后,以40r/min搅拌,在80℃保温5分钟;
4)保温后,打开冷却水,将步骤3)所得混合物料冷却至40-45℃,加入728g实施例
8的植物提取物组合物、1.17g激动素、91g茶多酚、19.5g羟癸基泛醌、111.8g胶态燕麦粉和31.2g生育酚,充分搅拌均匀;
5)在步骤4)所得物料中加入41g实施例9的精华乳基底成份3;搅拌均匀,静止1小时后继续搅拌5~10分钟,再调节pH为6.0-6.5;结束。
对比例Ⅰ.积雪草提取物。
对比例Ⅱ.340份欧洲七叶树提取物、320份的麝香草提取物、290份的库拉索芦荟提取物、260份的积雪草提取物和80份的水飞蓟提取物,混合均匀,形成组合物。
对比例Ⅲ.230份的紫苏叶提取物、210份的马缨丹叶提取物、180份的三叶鬼针草提取物,混合均匀,形成组合物。
对比例Ⅳ.230份的紫苏叶提取物、210份的马缨丹叶提取物、180份的三叶鬼针草提取物、340份欧洲七叶树提取物、320份的麝香草提取物、290份的库拉索芦荟提取物、260份的积雪草提取物和80份的水飞蓟提取物,混合均匀,形成组合物。
对比例V.按照以下步骤制备的抗衰修复精华乳:
1)将1404g水加入到水相锅中,搅拌条件下加入158g实施例9的精华乳基底成份1;然后搅拌加热至75~85℃,得水相溶液;
2)将139g实施例9的精华乳基底成份2加入到油相锅中,加热至75~85℃使物料熔化,得油相溶液;
3)将水相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,在搅拌下,将油相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,打开均质乳化机,在2800r/min转速下均质7~10分钟;均质后,以40r/min搅拌,在80℃保温5分钟;
4)保温后,打开冷却水,将步骤3)所得混合物料冷却至40-45℃,加入832g对比例Ⅰ的植物提取物,充分搅拌均匀;
5)在步骤4)所得物料中加入41g实施例9的精华乳基底成份3;搅拌均匀,静止1小时后继续搅拌5~10分钟,再调节pH为6.0-6.5;结束。
对比例VI.
按照以下步骤制备本发明的抗衰修复精华乳:
1)将1404g水加入到水相锅中,搅拌条件下加入158g实施例9的精华乳基底成份1;然后搅拌加热至75~85℃,得水相溶液;
2)将139g实施例9的精华乳基底成份2加入到油相锅中,加热至75~85℃使物料熔化,得油相溶液;
3)将水相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,在搅拌下,将油相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,打开均质乳化机,在2800r/min转速下均质7~10分钟;均质后,以40r/min搅拌,在80℃保温5分钟;
4)保温后,打开冷却水,将步骤3)所得混合物料冷却至40-45℃,加入832g对比例Ⅱ的植物提取物组合物,充分搅拌均匀;
5)在步骤4)所得物料中加入41g实施例9的精华乳基底成份3;搅拌均匀,静止1小时后继续搅拌5~10分钟,再调节pH为6.0-6.5;结束。
对比例VII.
按照以下步骤制备本发明的抗衰修复精华乳:
1)将1404g水加入到水相锅中,搅拌条件下加入158g实施例9的精华乳基底成份1;然后搅拌加热至75~85℃,得水相溶液;
2)将139g实施例9的精华乳基底成份2加入到油相锅中,加热至75~85℃使物料熔化,得油相溶液;
3)将水相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,在搅拌下,将油相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,打开均质乳化机,在2800r/min转速下均质7~10分钟;均质后,以40r/min搅拌,在80℃保温5分钟;
4)保温后,打开冷却水,将步骤3)所得混合物料冷却至40-45℃,加入832g对比例Ⅲ的植物提取物组合物,充分搅拌均匀;
5)在步骤4)所得物料中加入41g实施例9的精华乳基底成份3;搅拌均匀,静止1小时后继续搅拌5~10分钟,再调节pH为6.0-6.5;结束。
对比例VIII.
按照以下步骤制备本发明的抗衰修复精华乳:
1)将1404g水加入到水相锅中,搅拌条件下加入158g实施例9的精华乳基底成份1;然后搅拌加热至75~85℃,得水相溶液;
2)将139g实施例9的精华乳基底成份2加入到油相锅中,加热至75~85℃使物料熔化,得油相溶液;
3)将水相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,在搅拌下,将油相溶液用真空抽吸到均质乳化机的主锅中,打开均质乳化机,在2800r/min转速下均质7~10分钟;均质后,以40r/min搅拌,在80℃保温5分钟;
4)保温后,打开冷却水,将步骤3)所得混合物料冷却至40-45℃,加入832g对比例Ⅳ的植物提取物组合物,充分搅拌均匀;
5)在步骤4)所得物料中加入41g实施例9的精华乳基底成份3;搅拌均匀,静止1小时后继续搅拌5~10分钟,再调节pH为6.0-6.5;结束。
试验例一:对MMP-1表达的抑制率
皮肤老化的主要原因之一是真皮层的结构发生了改变。由于一些外界因素作用,激活体内的基质金属蛋白酶(MMPs),可导致皮肤真皮中支撑皮肤结构的胶原蛋白和弹性蛋白被过度降解,从而使皮肤出现皱缩、无弹性等衰老症状。MMP-1又称胶原酶-1,可降解Ⅰ、Ⅱ、Ⅲ、Ⅶ和X型胶原明胶及蛋白多糖。通过测试这些样品对MMP-1的抑制率来评估这些样品的抗衰老效果。
将成纤维细胞接种到12孔细胞培养板中,每个孔含有0.75×105个细胞,并且在无血清培养基中饥饿培养24小时。用PBS冲洗经饥饿培养的细胞,并且用紫外光处理(40mJ)。然后,在48小时内,向细胞中加入测试样品2次。用试剂盒(BIOTRAK,RPN2610)测量培养基中分离的MMP-1。通过计算MMP-1的表达抑制率来评估抗衰老功效的强弱。计算公式如下:
抑制率=(A-B)/A*100%
A:未添加测试样品,但经紫外照射后MMP-1的表达量
B:添加测试样品并经紫外照射后MMP-1的表达量
检测样品为:
样品Ⅰ:对比例V制得的精华乳;样品Ⅱ:对比例VI制得的精华乳;样品Ⅲ:对比例VII制得的精华乳;样品Ⅳ:对比例VIII制得的精华乳;进行下列测试:
表1不同测试样品对MMP-1表达的抑制率
测试样品 | 体积(μl) | 抑制率(%) |
样品Ⅰ | 50 | 8.2 |
样品Ⅱ | 50 | 34.7 |
样品Ⅲ | 50 | 11.6 |
样品Ⅳ | 50 | 48.3 |
从表1可以看出,4种待测样品对MMP-1表达的抑制率各不相同,但样品Ⅳ对MMP-1表达的抑制明显高于其他3个待测样品,其在5μl的浓度下,抑制率达到48.3%,远远高于其他3种在50μl浓度下的抑制率,说明样品Ⅳ对MMP-1表达具有显著的抑制作用,且其中各组份具有很好的协同增效效应。
试验例二:Ⅲ型胶原蛋白的合成促进率:
将在含10%FBS的DMEM培养基中培养的人成纤维细胞播种于24孔板,细胞附着后,用含有0.25%FBS和250μM抗坏血酸磷酸镁的DMEM培养基进行培养基交换,分别加入上述4种待测样品。培养三天后,回收培养基上清,离心分离,测定所得上清中的Ⅲ型胶原蛋白。
关于细胞中Ⅲ型胶原蛋白的生物合成能力的评价方法是采用“RIA-gnost PⅢP(PⅢP)测定试剂盒”测定上清液中分泌的Ⅲ型胶原蛋白的末端肽(Procollagen typeⅢ-peptide:简称为PⅢP)的含量。通过Ⅲ型胶原蛋白的合成促进率进而评估这些样品的抗衰老效果的强弱。计算公式如下:
促进率=(A-B)/B*100%
A:添加测试样品后的Ⅲ型胶原蛋白生成量
B:未添加测试样品的Ⅲ型胶原蛋白生成量
表2不同测试样品对Ⅲ型胶原蛋白的合成促进率
测试样品 | 浓度(μl) | 促进率(%) |
样品Ⅰ | 50 | 11.3 |
样品Ⅱ | 50 | 44.6 |
样品Ⅲ | 50 | 18.2 |
样品Ⅳ | 50 | 68.7 |
从上表2可以看出,各种单一功效成分对Ⅲ型胶原蛋白生成量均具有一定的促进活性但都较低。而样品Ⅳ的促进率为68.7%,较前三者明显提高,这说明,经过复配后,提取物中的各功效成分发生协同作用,相互增强,促进细胞对Ⅲ型胶原蛋白的分泌,提高Ⅲ型胶原蛋白生成量,增厚细胞外基质,进而实现抗衰老效果。
试验例三、刺激性测试
将本发明实施例10-17制备的抗衰修复精华乳送往第三方检测机构检测皮肤刺激性,对每个精华液均用6鸡胚连续皮肤刺激性实验,且试验组的鸡胚的出血、凝血和血管融解时间均高于300分钟。
结果显示,上述实施例制备的祛痘平衡精华计算得到的刺激评分均为零分,说明本发明实施例10-17制备的抗衰修复精华乳为无刺激性产品。
试验例四:本发明抗衰修复精华乳人体评价
1、试验方法:(1)根据皮肤衰老标准(皮肤干燥、粗糙、脱屑、细纹、面黄、不规则色素改变、皮肤弹性降低、敏感性增加等)选择受试者200例,男94例,女106例,年龄25-53岁,平均年龄33.7岁,要求受试者不伴有面部皮肤糜烂、水疱等破损症状。(2)将受试者随机分为5组,各组受试者每日早晚各洁面一次,洁面后涂附组合物。试验周期为30天,试验期间,受试者停用其他化妆品,并保持正常作息和清淡饮食。试验结束后,观察各组受试者的皮肤状况和回访受试者的用后体验。(3)A组使用实施例10的精华乳,B组使用实施例11的精华乳;C组使用实施例12的精华乳;D组使用实施例13的精华乳;E组使用实施例14的精华乳;F组使用市售某品牌乳液。受试组各30人。(4)试验结束后,由专人对受试者试验前后的皮肤状况进行考核,并参考受试者的用后体验。
2、评分标准:
(1)干燥:面颊、额部、口周部位皮肤均光滑记为0分;面颊、额部、口周有一处部位皮肤触之不光滑记为1分;以面颊、额部、口周有两处部位皮肤触之不光滑或一处部位触之碍手伴脱屑记为2分;以面颊、额部、口周处部位皮肤触之均不光滑或大于一处部位皮肤触之碍手伴脱屑记为3分。
(2)细纹:眼角有浅细的鱼尾纹,额部浅显皱纹者记为1分;眼角处、额部、面颊部粗尾纹者记为2分;眼角处、额部、面颊部、口周处以及颈部有明显皱纹者记为3分。
(3)面色萎黄:面色萎黄有光泽记为1分,面色苍黄无光泽记为2分,面色暗黄毫无光泽记为3分。
(4)皮肤弹性:按压后能迅速恢复但按压部位周围产生较多皮纹记为1分;皮肤弹性欠佳,按压后1-2s能恢复记为2分;皮肤弹性差,按压后超过2s能恢复者记为3分。
以上计分,具体情况可取中间非整数值。
3、疗效评定标准:
改善率=(试验前症状积分-试验后症状积分)/试验前症状积分×100%。
显效:改善率≥75%;有效:改善率≥60%;无效:改善率<60%,症状未见明显改善或反见恶化。
表3试验前后评分结果比较(人均积分)
表4各组疗效比较
组别 | 人数 | 显效 | 显效率 | 有效 | 总有效率 | 无效 |
A | 30 | 17 | 57% | 9 | 87% | 4 |
B | 30 | 19 | 63% | 9 | 93% | 2 |
C | 30 | 20 | 67% | 7 | 90% | 3 |
D | 30 | 17 | 57% | 6 | 77% | 7 |
E | 30 | 21 | 70% | 8 | 97% | 1 |
F | 30 | 12 | 40% | 8 | 67% | 10 |
由上述试验结果可看出:本发明抗衰修复精华乳与普通市售护肤品相比较,对皮肤修复和延缓衰老均具有显著的作用,且明显优于普通市售护肤品。
试用30天后,各组受试者面部均未见皮肤干燥、刺痛感、发炎等副作用,受试者评价使用本发明组合物后,有效改善了干燥粗糙、暗沉、毛孔粗大等皮肤状况,肌肤莹润光泽,柔软且光滑。
试验例五、稳定性测试
测试样品:
实验组为取实施例10-17制备的抗衰修复精华乳。
空白组为各取实施例10-17制备的抗衰修复精华乳常温保存。
1、耐热测试
该耐热试验是将各处于室温的测试样品直接放入40±1℃的烘箱保持24h,恢复至室温后,观察测试样品是否与试验前无明显差异。结果见表5所示。
2、耐寒测试
该耐寒试验是将各处于室温的测试样品直接放入-10℃的低温箱保持24h,恢复至室温后,观察测试样品是否与试验前无明显差异。结果见表5所示。
表5稳定性测试结果
测试样品 | 耐热测试 | 耐寒测试 | 空白组 |
实施例10 | 无异常 | 无异常 | 无异常 |
实施例11 | 无异常 | 无异常 | 无异常 |
实施例12 | 无异常 | 无异常 | 无异常 |
实施例13 | 无异常 | 无异常 | 无异常 |
实施例14 | 无异常 | 无异常 | 无异常 |
实施例15 | 无异常 | 无异常 | 无异常 |
实施例16 | 无异常 | 无异常 | 无异常 |
实施例17 | 无异常 | 无异常 | 无异常 |
结果表明,本发明实施例10-17制备的抗衰修复精华乳在耐热测试及耐寒测试恢复至室温后均与空白组相比无异常情况,说明含有本发明的精华液稳定性良好,可以长期储藏。
以上实施例仅用以说明本发明的技术方案而非对其限制,尽管参照上述实施例对本发明进行了详细的说明,所属领域的普通技术人员依然可以对本发明的具体实施方式进行修改或者等同替换,而这些未脱离本发明精神和范围的任何修改或者等同替换,其均在申请待批的本发明的权利要求保护范围之内。
Claims (10)
1.一种皮肤抗衰修复植物提取物组合物,其特征在于,所述植物提取物组合物包括解毒抗敏组合物和修复调理组合物,所述解毒抗敏组合物包括:20-250份的紫苏叶提取物,18-160份的马缨丹叶提取物和70-200份的三叶鬼针草提取物;所述修复调理组合物包括:50-400份欧洲七叶树提取物、60-400份的麝香草提取物、30-360份的库拉索芦荟提取物、30-340份的积雪草提取物和14-120份的水飞蓟提取物。
2.按照权利要求1所述皮肤抗衰修复植物提取物组合物,其特征在于,所述组合物由以下重量份的植物提取物组成:210-250份的紫苏叶提取物、100-140份的马缨丹叶提取物、160-200份的三叶鬼针草提取物、320-360份欧洲七叶树提取物、300-340份的麝香草提取物、270-310份的库拉索芦荟提取物、240-280份的积雪草提取物和60-100份的水飞蓟提取物。
3.权利要求1或2所述的组合物在制备护肤品中的应用。
4.一种皮肤抗衰修复精华乳,其特征在于,按质量百分比计,所述精华乳包括8-32%的权利要求1或2所述植物提取物组合物和13-26%的精华乳基底成分,其余为去离子水。
5.按照权利要求4所述的皮肤抗衰修复精华乳,其特征在于,按质量百分比计,所述精华乳包括20-30%的权利要求1或2所述植物提取物组合物和15-20%的精华乳基底成分,其余为去离子水。
6.按照权利要求4所述的皮肤抗衰修复精华乳,其特征在于,所述精华乳按质量百分比计,还包括抗氧化活性成分,所述抗氧化活性成分由0.02-0.06%激动素、2-4%茶多酚、0.5-1%羟癸基泛醌、1-5%胶态燕麦粉和0.5-1.5%生育酚组成。
7.按照权利要求6所述的皮肤抗衰修复精华乳,其特征在于,所述精华乳按质量百分比计,还包括促进微循环活性成分和天然保湿活性因子,所述促进微循环活性成分由0.1-0.3%精氨酸、0.1-1.5%腺苷和0.01-1%生物素组成;所述天然保湿活性因子由0.01-0.08%透明质酸钠和0.2-0.5%野生芒果果仁脂组成。
8.按照权利要求7所述的皮肤抗衰修复精华乳,其特征在于,所述精华乳还添加质量百分数1%的天然美白成分四氢姜黄素。
9.按照权利要求4所述的皮肤抗衰修复精华乳,其特征在于,所述精华乳基底成分按重量份计,由8份甘油、1份丁二醇、1份丙二醇、1份辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、1份聚二甲基硅氧烷、1份氢化椰油酸甘油酯、1份异壬酸异壬酯、0.2份硬脂醇、1份鲸蜡醇、1份霍霍巴酯类、0.2份硬脂酸甘油酯、0.2份氢化卵磷脂、3份硬脂醇聚醚-2、1份硬脂醇聚醚-21、1份聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯、1份丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、0.2份黄原胶、1份羟乙基纤维素、0.1份二氧化钛、0.5份苯氧乙醇,1份EDTA二钠、1份氯苯甘醚、1,2戊二醇、1份乙基己基甘油、1份对羟基苯乙酮、1份山梨酸钾、1份着色剂CI 19140、1份着色剂CI 14700和1份香精组成。
10.按照权利要求4-9所述皮肤抗衰修复精华乳的制备方法,其特征在于,所述制备方法包括:
1)将水加入到水相锅中,搅拌条件下按重量比例加入甘油、丁二醇、丙二醇、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、黄原胶,羟乙基纤维素、二氧化钛、苯氧乙醇、对羟基苯乙酮、EDTA二钠、1,2戊二醇、然后搅拌加热至75~85℃,得水相溶液;
2)将辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、聚二甲基硅氧烷、氢化椰油酸甘油酯、异壬酸异壬酯、硬脂醇、鲸蜡醇、霍霍巴酯类、硬脂酸甘油酯、氢化卵磷脂、硬脂醇聚醚-2、硬脂醇聚醚-21、聚甲基丙烯酸甲酯、氯苯甘醚、乙基己基甘油按比例加入到油相锅中,加热至75~85℃使物料熔化,得油相溶液;
3)将水相溶液用真空抽吸到均质液化机的主锅中,在搅拌下,将油相溶液用真空抽吸到均质液化机的主锅中,打开均质液化机,在2800r/min转速下均质7~10分钟;均质后,以40r/min搅拌,在80℃保温5分钟;
4)保温后,打开冷却水,将步骤3)所得混合物料冷却至40-45℃,加入植物提取物组合物、抗氧化活性成分、天然保湿活性因子、促进微循环活性成分和四氢姜黄素,充分搅拌均匀;
5)在步骤4)所得物料中加入山梨酸钾、着色剂CI 19140、着色剂CI 14700和香精;搅拌均匀,静止1小时后继续搅拌5~10分钟,再调节pH为6.0-6.5;结束。
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