CN111334917A - Preparation method of comfortable seersucker - Google Patents

Preparation method of comfortable seersucker Download PDF

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Publication number
CN111334917A
CN111334917A CN201911386282.2A CN201911386282A CN111334917A CN 111334917 A CN111334917 A CN 111334917A CN 201911386282 A CN201911386282 A CN 201911386282A CN 111334917 A CN111334917 A CN 111334917A
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polyamide
trilobal
seersucker
comfortable
viscosity
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CN111334917B (en
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汤方明
康爱旗
任怀林
王小雨
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Jiangsu Hengli Chemical Fiber Co Ltd
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Jiangsu Hengli Chemical Fiber Co Ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/567Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01DMECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
    • D01D5/00Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
    • D01D5/08Melt spinning methods
    • D01D5/088Cooling filaments, threads or the like, leaving the spinnerettes
    • D01D5/092Cooling filaments, threads or the like, leaving the spinnerettes in shafts or chimneys
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01DMECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
    • D01D5/00Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
    • D01D5/22Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a crimped or curled structure; with a special structure to simulate wool
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01DMECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
    • D01D5/00Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
    • D01D5/28Formation of filaments, threads, or the like while mixing different spinning solutions or melts during the spinning operation; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D01D5/30Conjugate filaments; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D01D5/34Core-skin structure; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01FCHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F8/00Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F8/04Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
    • D01F8/12Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyamide as constituent
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06CFINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C7/00Heating or cooling textile fabrics

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Multicomponent Fibers (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to a preparation method of comfortable seersucker, which comprises the steps of weaving 28-32 s of warp yarns (cotton fibers) and 50-60 s of weft yarns (polyamide yarns) to obtain gray fabric, and then performing relaxation heat treatment to obtain the comfortable seersucker; preparation of polyamide yarn: in the process of preparing the circular sheath-core composite fiber from two polyamides 6 with different viscosities according to the FDY process, the spinneret orifices on the spinneret plate are changed into a trilobal shape from a circular shape, circular blowing cooling is adopted, and the arrangement of the trilobal spinneret orifices on the spinneret plate is controlled to meet one requirementPreparing polyamide filaments under certain conditions; the gram weight of the prepared comfortable seersucker is 100-130 g/m2The bubble width is 1.30-1.50 cm, the bubble density is 38-42/10 cm, and the fullness is 6.6-7.5; moisture absorption: the water absorption rate is more than or equal to 280 percent, the drip diffusion time is less than or equal to 2.0 seconds, and the wicking height is more than or equal to 138 mm; quick drying: the evaporation rate is more than or equal to 0.32 g/h.

Description

Preparation method of comfortable seersucker
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textile yarns, and relates to a preparation method of comfortable seersucker.
Background
The seersucker is a fabric with special appearance style characteristics in cotton fabrics and is processed by adopting light and thin plain weave fine cloth. The cloth cover presents small bubbles with even and dense distribution and unevenness, is not close to the skin when being worn, has cool feeling and is suitable for various clothes of women in summer. The types of seersucker are mainly: all cotton, chemical fiber or chemical fiber blend. The clothes made of the seersucker has the advantages that ironing is not needed after washing, and the shortcomings that the seersucker gradually flattens after being washed repeatedly. After washing for a certain number of times, the bubbles disappear, the clothes can not be connected with the skin in a contact point mode any more, but the clothes are attached to the body in a large area, and after sweating in summer, sweat enables the clothes to be directly contacted with the skin to cause stronger adhesive feeling, so that the wearing experience of the clothes is influenced.
Therefore, it is very important to research a method for preparing bubble yarn which is stable in bubbles and comfortable to wear.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention provides a preparation method of comfortable seersucker; the purpose is to solve the problem that in the prior art, the wearing comfort is poor because the bubbles of the seersucker are damaged due to the washing and other actions.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following scheme:
a preparation method of comfortable seersucker comprises the steps of weaving 28-32 s of warp yarns and 50-60 s of weft yarns to obtain gray fabric, and then performing relaxation heat treatment to obtain the comfortable seersucker;
the warp yarns are made of cotton fibers, and the weft yarns are made of polyamide yarns;
the preparation process of the polyamide filament comprises the following steps:
in the process of preparing the circular sheath-core composite fiber from two polyamides 6 with different viscosities according to the FDY process, the spinneret orifices on the spinneret plate are changed into a trilobal shape from a circular shape, circular blowing cooling is adopted, and the arrangement of the trilobal spinneret orifices on the spinneret plate is controlled to meet certain conditions, so that the polyamide filaments are prepared;
all the trilobal spinneret orifices are T-shaped orifices, the included angle ratio of the center lines of three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.0:2.0, the length and the width of the three leaves are the same, and the ratio of the length to the width is 2.5-3.5: 1; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size;
the certain conditions are as follows: all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice, which is opposite to the maximum included angle, passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center.
As a preferred technical scheme:
in the preparation method of the comfortable seersucker, the mass ratio of the high-viscosity polyamide 6 to the low-viscosity polyamide 6 is 50: 50.
According to the preparation method of the comfortable seersucker, the intrinsic viscosity of the high-viscosity polyamide 6 is 2.50-2.60 dL/g, and the temperature of a spinning box body corresponding to the high-viscosity polyamide 6 is 285-290 ℃; the low-viscosity polyamide 6 has an intrinsic viscosity of 2.20 to 2.31dL/g, and the temperature of a spinning beam corresponding to the low-viscosity polyamide 6 is 277 to 282 ℃.
In the preparation method of the comfortable seersucker, the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 282-286 ℃, the cooling temperature is 17-22 ℃, the first-roller speed is 1800-2000 m/min, the first-roller temperature is 80-90 ℃, the second-roller speed is 3700-4000 m/min, the second-roller temperature is 140-152 ℃, and the winding speed is 3630-3910 m/min.
The preparation method of the comfortable seersucker has the advantages that the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 90-120 ℃, and the time is 20-30 min; the polyamide filament consists of a plurality of high-viscosity polyamide 6/low-viscosity polyamide 6 skin-core composite monofilaments with trilobal cross sections, an imaginary circle is made around the center of the trilobal, the part of the trilobal which is overlapped with the imaginary circle is a core layer, and the rest part is a skin layer.
According to the preparation method of the comfortable seersucker, before relaxation heat treatment, the breaking strength of the polyamide yarn is more than or equal to 3.2cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 40.0 +/-4.0%, and the total titer is 150-200 dtex.
In the method for preparing the comfortable seersucker, after the relaxation heat treatment, the polyamide yarn has a twisted shape and a three-dimensional curled shape, the curling shrinkage rate is 51-58%, the curling stability is 83-87%, the contraction elongation is 89-94%, the curling elastic recovery is 85-89%, and the torsion angle per unit length phi is 65-156 DEG/10 mu m (phi is 10 × 360 DEG/l, and l is the length of the fiber section with the number of torsion turns of 1, and the unit is mu m).
The preparation method of the comfortable seersucker has the advantage that the gram weight of the comfortable seersucker is 100-130 g/m2The foam width is 1.30-1.50 cm, the foam density is 38-42/10 cm, and the fullness is 6.6-7.5 (the test method is the same as the literature, "summer megapeng, Mayiying, Xumei]Progress in textile technology, 2005(5):64-66. "); hygroscopicity (GB/T21655.12008): the water absorption rate is more than or equal to 280 percent, the drip diffusion time is less than or equal to 2.0 seconds, and the wicking height is more than or equal to 138 mm; quick drying (GB/T21655.12008): the evaporation rate is more than or equal to 0.32 g/h.
The principle of the invention is as follows:
the polyamide yarn is prepared according to an FDY process, high-viscosity polyamide 6 and low-viscosity polyamide 6 are extruded from trilobal spinneret orifices on the same spinneret plate, an imaginary circle is made around the center of the trilobal, the part of the trilobal, which is coincided with the imaginary circle, is a core layer, the rest part is a skin layer, and in skin-core composite spinning, the distribution relation of a melt on the spinneret plate is as follows: the core layer corresponds to one melt I (high-viscosity polyamide 6 or low-viscosity polyamide 6) and the skin layer corresponds to the other melt II (high-viscosity polyamide 6 or low-viscosity polyamide 6); when two melts are extruded from the spinneret orifices under the action of spinning pressure, the melt I is mainly extruded from the core layer, the melt II is mainly extruded from the skin layer, and the spinneret orifices are trilobal, so that the part of each leaf of the trilobal close to the circle center is the melt I, and the end of each leaf far away from the circle center is the melt II; cooling with a circular air blow while drawing to form fibers. When the fiber is in heat treatment, there will be a force effect on its cross section: the two components are arranged on each blade, and the thermal shrinkage rates of the two components are different, so that a drag force is formed on the blade, and the drag forces on the three blades face to the circle center or depart from the circle center simultaneously; moreover, because the trilobal spinneret orifices are T-shaped, the trilobes are asymmetric, and the drag force of the trilobes is different for a single filament; the different drag forces make the high viscosity polyamide 6/low viscosity polyamide 6 sheath-core composite monofilament in the fully drawn textured yarn exhibit a twisted shape and stable twisting performance, and form a certain three-dimensional self-curling shape on the basis of twisting. The three-dimensional self-crimping fiber is adopted as the weft yarn in the seersucker, the crimp shape is caused by the difference of the thermal shrinkage rate difference of the two materials, the crimp is stable, and the thermal shrinkage rate of the materials cannot be influenced under the normal washing and using conditions, namely the crimp state cannot be greatly influenced; thus, bubbles formed by the three-dimensional crimped fibers are not easily destroyed by the washing process.
Because the single fiber has a special-shaped cross section (trilobal) structure, the fiber with the grooves can endow the seersucker with good moisture absorption and moisture transmission performance (the wicking action of capillaries generated by the grooves), particularly, when the fiber with the grooves is self-curled, the same groove is turned inwards and outwards, so that a part which absorbs moisture firstly (usually the side facing the skin) can be turned to the outer side (the side facing the air) through the guiding action of the grooves, compared with the special-shaped cross section fiber in the prior art (the grooves of the single fiber usually face to the same side), the polyamide yarn has higher moisture transmission efficiency; and the fiber has a twisted shape, the contact area of the fiber and the cotton fiber is larger, under the hydrophilic action of the cotton fiber, the moisture in the polyamide silk is continuously absorbed by the cotton fiber, the contact area is larger, and the moisture transfer efficiency is higher. Therefore, the moisture absorption and quick drying performance of the seersucker is improved on the whole.
In conclusion, the seersucker provided by the invention has good moisture absorption and quick drying performance, and the performance is durable and stable, so that the seersucker can keep comfortable for a long time.
Advantageous effects
(1) The preparation method of the comfortable seersucker adopts the matching use of the spinneret plate with the trilobal spinneret orifices (T-shaped holes) and the high-low viscosity polyamide 6 to prepare the polyamide yarns with self-twisting and self-curling three-dimensional shapes;
(2) the invention relates to a preparation method of comfortable seersucker; the polyamide yarn is applied to the seersucker, so that the seersucker has stable seersucker and is not easy to be damaged by washing and using processes, and the seersucker prepared by the polyamide yarn has lasting comfort.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of the shape of a trilobal spinneret orifice of the present invention;
Detailed Description
The invention will be further illustrated with reference to specific embodiments. It should be understood that these examples are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Further, it should be understood that various changes or modifications of the present invention may be made by those skilled in the art after reading the teaching of the present invention, and such equivalents may fall within the scope of the present invention as defined in the appended claims.
The shape schematic diagram of the trilobal spinneret orifice is shown in figure 1, all the trilobal spinneret orifices are T-shaped orifices, the included angle ratio of the center lines of three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.0:2.0, the length and the width of the three leaves are the same, and the ratio of the length to the width is 2.5-3.5: 1; the trilobes of different trilobe orifices are the same in shape and size.
FIG. 1 is intended as an illustration only, and not as a limitation on the present invention.
Example 1
A preparation method of comfortable seersucker comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing polyamide yarns:
preparing polyamide filaments from high-viscosity polyamide 6 (the intrinsic viscosity is 2.5dL/g) and low-viscosity polyamide 6 (the intrinsic viscosity is 2.22dL/g) in a mass ratio of 50:50 according to an FDY process and a process of circular sheath-core composite fibers, wherein spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate are changed from a circle to a trilobal shape, all the trilobal spinneret orifices are T-shaped orifices, the included angle ratio of trilobal center lines of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.0:2.0, the trilobal has the same length and width, and the ratio of the length to the width is 3.1: 1; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size;
cooling by circular blowing and controlling the arrangement of trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate as follows: all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice, which is opposite to the maximum included angle, passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center; and the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 282 ℃, the temperature of a spinning box body corresponding to the high-viscosity polyamide 6 is 285 ℃, the temperature of a spinning box body corresponding to the low-viscosity polyamide 6 is 278 ℃, the cooling temperature is 17 ℃, the first-roller speed is 1930m/min, the first-roller temperature is 80 ℃, the second-roller speed is 4000m/min, the second-roller temperature is 140 ℃, and the winding speed is 3910 m/min;
the prepared polyamide filament consists of a plurality of high-viscosity polyamide 6/low-viscosity polyamide 6 sheath-core composite monofilaments with trilobal cross sections, an imaginary circle is made around the center of the trilobal, the part of the trilobal which is overlapped with the imaginary circle is a core layer, and the rest part is a skin layer;
(2) weaving 30s warp yarns (cotton fibers) and 53s weft yarns (polyamide yarns) to obtain grey cloth;
(3) performing relaxation heat treatment at 120 deg.C for 22min to obtain comfortable seersucker;
before relaxation heat treatment, the breaking strength of the polyamide yarn is 3.37cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 39%, and the total titer is 180 dtex; after relaxation heat treatment, the polyamide yarn had a twisted form and a three-dimensional crimped form, a crimp shrinkage of 54%, a crimp stability of 87%, a shrinkage elongation of 92%, a crimp elastic recovery of 86%, and a torsion angle phi per unit length of 125 DEG/10 [ mu ] m; the gram weight of the comfortable seersucker is 100g/m2The bubble width is 1.5cm, the bubble density is 41 bubbles/10 cm, and the fullness is 6.7; moisture absorption: the water absorption rate is 293%, the drip diffusion time is 1.8 seconds, and the wicking height is 150 mm; quick drying: the evaporation rate was 0.35 g/h.
Example 2
A preparation method of comfortable seersucker comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing polyamide yarns:
preparing polyamide filaments from high-viscosity polyamide 6 (the intrinsic viscosity is 2.59dL/g) and low-viscosity polyamide 6 (the intrinsic viscosity is 2.23dL/g) in a mass ratio of 50:50 according to an FDY process and a process of circular sheath-core composite fibers, wherein spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate are changed from a circle to a trilobal shape, all the trilobal spinneret orifices are T-shaped orifices, the included angle ratio of trilobal center lines of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.0:2.0, the trilobal has the same length and width, and the ratio of the length to the width is 3.5: 1; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size;
cooling by circular blowing and controlling the arrangement of trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate as follows: all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice, which is opposite to the maximum included angle, passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center; and the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 285 ℃, the temperature of a spinning box body corresponding to the high-viscosity polyamide 6 is 287 ℃, the temperature of a spinning box body corresponding to the low-viscosity polyamide 6 is 280 ℃, the cooling temperature is 18 ℃, the one-roll speed is 1800m/min, the one-roll temperature is 88 ℃, the two-roll speed is 3880m/min, the two-roll temperature is 148 ℃, and the winding speed is 3810 m/min;
the prepared polyamide filament consists of a plurality of high-viscosity polyamide 6/low-viscosity polyamide 6 sheath-core composite monofilaments with trilobal cross sections, an imaginary circle is made around the center of the trilobal, the part of the trilobal which is overlapped with the imaginary circle is a core layer, and the rest part is a skin layer;
(2) weaving 29s warp yarns (cotton fibers) and 56s weft yarns (polyamide yarns) to obtain grey cloth;
(3) performing relaxation heat treatment at 120 deg.C for 20min to obtain comfortable seersucker;
before relaxation heat treatment, the breaking strength of the polyamide yarn is 3.42cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 38%, and the total titer is 150 dtex; after relaxation heat treatment, the polyamide yarn had a twisted form and a three-dimensional crimp form, a crimp shrinkage of 56%, a crimp stability of 87%, a compression elongation of 94%, a crimp elastic recovery of 88%, and a torsion angle phi per unit length of 89 DEG/10 mu m; the gram weight of the comfortable seersucker is 110g/m2The bubble width is 1.3cm, the bubble density is 40/10 cm, and the fullness is 6.8; moisture absorption: water absorption of 310%, drip diffusion time of 2 seconds, wicking height of 148mm; quick drying: the evaporation rate was 0.35 g/h.
Example 3
A preparation method of comfortable seersucker comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing polyamide yarns:
preparing polyamide filaments from high-viscosity polyamide 6 (the intrinsic viscosity is 2.6dL/g) and low-viscosity polyamide 6 (the intrinsic viscosity is 2.24dL/g) in a mass ratio of 50:50 according to an FDY process and a process of circular sheath-core composite fibers, wherein spinneret holes on a spinneret plate are changed from a circle to a trilobal shape, all the trilobal spinneret holes are T-shaped holes, the included angle ratio of trilobal center lines of the same trilobal spinneret hole is 1.0:1.0:2.0, the lengths and the widths of the trilobals are the same, and the ratio of the lengths to the widths is 2.5: 1; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size;
cooling by circular blowing and controlling the arrangement of trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate as follows: all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice, which is opposite to the maximum included angle, passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center; and the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 286 ℃, the temperature of a spinning box body corresponding to the high-viscosity polyamide 6 is 290 ℃, the temperature of a spinning box body corresponding to the low-viscosity polyamide 6 is 281 ℃, the cooling temperature is 22 ℃, the speed of one roller is 2000m/min, the temperature of one roller is 90 ℃, the speed of two rollers is 3810m/min, the temperature of two rollers is 152 ℃, and the winding speed is 3740 m/min;
the prepared polyamide filament consists of a plurality of high-viscosity polyamide 6/low-viscosity polyamide 6 sheath-core composite monofilaments with trilobal cross sections, an imaginary circle is made around the center of the trilobal, the part of the trilobal which is overlapped with the imaginary circle is a core layer, and the rest part is a skin layer;
(2) weaving 32s warp yarns (cotton fibers) and 50s weft yarns (polyamide yarns) to obtain grey cloth;
(3) performing relaxation heat treatment at 101 deg.C for 28min to obtain comfortable seersucker;
before relaxation heat treatment, the breaking strength of the polyamide yarn is 3.22cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 40%, and the total titer is 186 dtex; after relaxation heat treatment, the polyamide filaments have twistA curved form and a three-dimensional curled form, a curl shrinkage of 55%, a curl stability of 85%, a shrinkage elongation of 89%, a curl elastic recovery of 87%, and a torsion angle phi per unit length of 95 DEG/10 mu m; the gram weight of the comfortable seersucker is 114g/m2The bubble width is 1.4cm, the bubble density is 41 bubbles/10 cm, and the fullness is 6.9; moisture absorption: water absorption of 287%, drip diffusion time of 1.8 seconds, wicking height of 146 mm; quick drying: the evaporation rate was 0.34 g/h.
Example 4
A preparation method of comfortable seersucker comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing polyamide yarns:
preparing polyamide filaments from high-viscosity polyamide 6 (the intrinsic viscosity is 2.6dL/g) and low-viscosity polyamide 6 (the intrinsic viscosity is 2.22dL/g) in a mass ratio of 50:50 according to an FDY process and a process of circular sheath-core composite fibers, wherein spinneret holes on a spinneret plate are changed from a circle to a trilobal shape, all the trilobal spinneret holes are T-shaped holes, the included angle ratio of trilobal center lines of the same trilobal spinneret hole is 1.0:1.0:2.0, the lengths and the widths of the trilobals are the same, and the ratio of the lengths to the widths is 2.6: 1; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size;
cooling by circular blowing and controlling the arrangement of trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate as follows: all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice, which is opposite to the maximum included angle, passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center; and the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 286 ℃, the temperature of a spinning box body corresponding to the high-viscosity polyamide 6 is 288 ℃, the temperature of a spinning box body corresponding to the low-viscosity polyamide 6 is 280 ℃, the cooling temperature is 20 ℃, the first-roller speed is 1950m/min, the first-roller temperature is 89 ℃, the two-roller speed is 3700m/min, the two-roller temperature is 150 ℃, and the winding speed is 3630 m/min;
the prepared polyamide filament consists of a plurality of high-viscosity polyamide 6/low-viscosity polyamide 6 sheath-core composite monofilaments with trilobal cross sections, an imaginary circle is made around the center of the trilobal, the part of the trilobal which is overlapped with the imaginary circle is a core layer, and the rest part is a skin layer;
(2) weaving 28s warp yarns (cotton fibers) and 60s weft yarns (polyamide yarns) to obtain grey cloth;
(3) performing relaxation heat treatment at 117 deg.C for 25min to obtain comfortable seersucker;
before relaxation heat treatment, the breaking strength of the polyamide yarn is 3.2cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 44%, and the total titer is 176 dtex; after relaxation heat treatment, the polyamide yarn had a twisted form and a three-dimensional crimp form, a crimp shrinkage of 58%, a crimp stability of 86%, a shrinkage elongation of 90%, a crimp elastic recovery of 89%, and a twist angle phi per unit length of 156 DEG/10 mu m; the gram weight of the comfortable seersucker is 115g/m2The bubble width is 1.4cm, the bubble density is 38/10 cm, and the fullness is 7; moisture absorption: the water absorption rate was 303%, the drip diffusion time was 1.9 seconds, and the wicking height was 144 mm; quick drying: the evaporation rate was 0.34 g/h.
Example 5
A preparation method of comfortable seersucker comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing polyamide yarns:
preparing polyamide filaments from high-viscosity polyamide 6 (intrinsic viscosity is 2.57dL/g) and low-viscosity polyamide 6 (intrinsic viscosity is 2.31dL/g) in a mass ratio of 50:50 according to an FDY process and a process of circular sheath-core composite fibers, wherein spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate are changed from a circle to a trilobal shape, all the trilobal spinneret orifices are T-shaped orifices, the included angle ratio of trilobal center lines of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.0:2.0, the trilobal spinneret orifices are the same in length and width, and the ratio of the length to the width is 2.7: 1; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size;
cooling by circular blowing and controlling the arrangement of trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate as follows: all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice, which is opposite to the maximum included angle, passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center; and the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 284 ℃, the temperature of a spinning box body corresponding to the high-viscosity polyamide 6 is 287 ℃, the temperature of a spinning box body corresponding to the low-viscosity polyamide 6 is 281 ℃, the cooling temperature is 18 ℃, the first-roller speed is 1890m/min, the first-roller temperature is 88 ℃, the second-roller speed is 3750m/min, the second-roller temperature is 148 ℃, and the winding speed is 3680 m/min;
the prepared polyamide filament consists of a plurality of high-viscosity polyamide 6/low-viscosity polyamide 6 sheath-core composite monofilaments with trilobal cross sections, an imaginary circle is made around the center of the trilobal, the part of the trilobal which is overlapped with the imaginary circle is a core layer, and the rest part is a skin layer;
(2) weaving 30s warp yarns (cotton fibers) and 54s weft yarns (polyamide yarns) to obtain grey cloth;
(3) performing relaxation heat treatment at 110 deg.C for 26min to obtain comfortable seersucker;
before relaxation heat treatment, the breaking strength of the polyamide yarn is 3.25cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 40%, and the total titer is 162 dtex; after relaxation heat treatment, the polyamide yarn has a twisted form and a three-dimensional crimp form, a crimp shrinkage of 51%, a crimp stability of 85%, a shrinkage elongation of 90%, a crimp elastic recovery of 85%, and a torsion angle phi per unit length of 65 DEG/10 mu m; the gram weight of the comfortable seersucker is 116g/m2The bubble width is 1.3cm, the bubble density is 40/10 cm, and the fullness is 7; moisture absorption: the water absorption was 307%, the drip diffusion time was 2 seconds, and the wicking height was 142 mm; quick drying: the evaporation rate was 0.33 g/h.
Example 6
A preparation method of comfortable seersucker comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing polyamide yarns:
preparing polyamide filaments from high-viscosity polyamide 6 (the intrinsic viscosity is 2.6dL/g) and low-viscosity polyamide 6 (the intrinsic viscosity is 2.24dL/g) in a mass ratio of 50:50 according to an FDY process and a process of circular sheath-core composite fibers, wherein spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate are changed from a circle to a trilobal shape, all the trilobal spinneret orifices are T-shaped orifices, the included angle ratio of trilobal center lines of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.0:2.0, the trilobal has the same length and width, and the ratio of the length to the width is 3.4: 1; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size;
cooling by circular blowing and controlling the arrangement of trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate as follows: all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice, which is opposite to the maximum included angle, passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center; and the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 286 ℃, the temperature of a spinning box body corresponding to the high-viscosity polyamide 6 is 289 ℃, the temperature of a spinning box body corresponding to the low-viscosity polyamide 6 is 280 ℃, the cooling temperature is 22 ℃, the speed of one roller is 1810m/min, the temperature of one roller is 90 ℃, the speed of two rollers is 3930m/min, the temperature of two rollers is 151 ℃, and the winding speed is 3860 m/min;
the prepared polyamide filament consists of a plurality of high-viscosity polyamide 6/low-viscosity polyamide 6 sheath-core composite monofilaments with trilobal cross sections, an imaginary circle is made around the center of the trilobal, the part of the trilobal which is overlapped with the imaginary circle is a core layer, and the rest part is a skin layer;
(2) weaving 29s warp yarns (cotton fibers) and 55s weft yarns (polyamide yarns) to obtain grey cloth;
(3) performing relaxation heat treatment at 118 deg.C for 23min to obtain comfortable seersucker;
before relaxation heat treatment, the breaking strength of the polyamide yarn is 3.49cN/dtex, the breaking elongation is 38%, and the total titer is 184 dtex; after relaxation heat treatment, the polyamide yarn has a twisted form and a three-dimensional crimp form, a crimp shrinkage of 56%, a crimp stability of 86%, a shrinkage elongation of 90%, a crimp elastic recovery of 89%, and a torsion angle phi per unit length of 86 DEG/10 mu m; the gram weight of the comfortable seersucker is 121g/m2The bubble width is 1.5cm, the bubble density is 38/10 cm, and the fullness is 7; moisture absorption: the water absorption rate is 289%, the drip diffusion time is 1.9 seconds, and the wicking height is 140 mm; quick drying: the evaporation rate was 0.32 g/h.
Example 7
A preparation method of comfortable seersucker comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing polyamide yarns:
preparing polyamide filaments from high-viscosity polyamide 6 (intrinsic viscosity is 2.51dL/g) and low-viscosity polyamide 6 (intrinsic viscosity is 2.21dL/g) in a mass ratio of 50:50 according to an FDY process and a process of circular sheath-core composite fibers, wherein spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate are changed from a circle to a trilobal shape, all the trilobal spinneret orifices are T-shaped orifices, the included angle ratio of trilobal center lines of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.0:2.0, the trilobal spinneret orifices are the same in length and width, and the ratio of the length to the width is 2.6: 1; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size;
cooling by circular blowing and controlling the arrangement of trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate as follows: all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice, which is opposite to the maximum included angle, passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center; and the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 284 ℃, the temperature of a spinning manifold corresponding to the high-viscosity polyamide 6 is 286 ℃, the temperature of a spinning manifold corresponding to the low-viscosity polyamide 6 is 277 ℃, the cooling temperature is 17 ℃, the first-roller speed is 1930m/min, the first-roller temperature is 81 ℃, the second-roller speed is 3950m/min, the second-roller temperature is 145 ℃, and the winding speed is 3880 m/min;
the prepared polyamide filament consists of a plurality of high-viscosity polyamide 6/low-viscosity polyamide 6 sheath-core composite monofilaments with trilobal cross sections, an imaginary circle is made around the center of the trilobal, the part of the trilobal which is overlapped with the imaginary circle is a core layer, and the rest part is a skin layer;
(2) weaving 28s warp yarns (cotton fibers) and 54s weft yarns (polyamide yarns) to obtain grey cloth;
(3) performing relaxation heat treatment at 90 deg.C for 30min to obtain comfortable seersucker;
before relaxation heat treatment, the breaking strength of the polyamide yarn is 3.3cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 39%, and the total titer is 158 dtex; after relaxation heat treatment, the polyamide yarn has a twisted form and a three-dimensional crimp form, a crimp shrinkage of 55%, a crimp stability of 83%, a shrinkage elongation of 89%, a crimp elastic recovery of 86%, and a torsion angle phi per unit length of 65 DEG/10 mu m; the gram weight of the comfortable seersucker is 123g/m2The bubble width is 1.5cm, the bubble density is 39/10 cm, and the fullness is 7.2; moisture absorption: the water absorption rate is 308%, the drip diffusion time is 2 seconds, and the wicking height is 140 mm; quick drying: the evaporation rate was 0.32 g/h.
Example 8
A preparation method of comfortable seersucker comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing polyamide yarns:
preparing polyamide filaments from high-viscosity polyamide 6 (the intrinsic viscosity is 2.56dL/g) and low-viscosity polyamide 6 (the intrinsic viscosity is 2.29dL/g) in a mass ratio of 50:50 according to an FDY process and a process of circular sheath-core composite fibers, wherein spinneret holes on a spinneret plate are changed from a circle to a trilobal shape, all the trilobal spinneret holes are T-shaped holes, the included angle ratio of trilobal center lines of the same trilobal spinneret hole is 1.0:1.0:2.0, the lengths and the widths of the trilobals are the same, and the ratio of the lengths to the widths is 2.9: 1; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size;
cooling by circular blowing and controlling the arrangement of trilobal spinneret orifices on a spinneret plate as follows: all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice, which is opposite to the maximum included angle, passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center; and the parameters of the FDY process are as follows: the spinning temperature is 284 ℃, the temperature of a spinning manifold corresponding to the high-viscosity polyamide 6 is 287 ℃, the temperature of a spinning manifold corresponding to the low-viscosity polyamide 6 is 281 ℃, the cooling temperature is 18 ℃, the one-roll speed is 1800m/min, the one-roll temperature is 85 ℃, the two-roll speed is 3990m/min, the two-roll temperature is 145 ℃, and the winding speed is 3920 m/min;
the prepared polyamide filament consists of a plurality of high-viscosity polyamide 6/low-viscosity polyamide 6 sheath-core composite monofilaments with trilobal cross sections, an imaginary circle is made around the center of the trilobal, the part of the trilobal which is overlapped with the imaginary circle is a core layer, and the rest part is a skin layer;
(2) weaving 28s warp yarns (cotton fibers) and 53s weft yarns (polyamide yarns) to obtain grey cloth;
(3) performing relaxation heat treatment at 98 deg.C for 28min to obtain comfortable seersucker;
before relaxation heat treatment, the breaking strength of the polyamide yarn is 3.51cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 36 percent, and the total titer is 200 dtex; after relaxation heat treatment, the polyamide yarn had a twisted form and a three-dimensional crimp form, a crimp shrinkage of 53%, a crimp stability of 83%, a shrinkage elongation of 89%, a crimp elastic recovery of 85%, and a twist angle phi per unit length of 76 DEG/10 mu m; the gram weight of the comfortable seersucker is 130 g-m2The bubble width is 1.5cm, the bubble density is 38/10 cm, and the fullness is 7.5; moisture absorption: the water absorption rate was 280%, the drip diffusion time was 1.8 seconds, and the wicking height was 138 mm; quick drying: the evaporation rate was 0.32 g/h.

Claims (8)

1. A preparation method of comfortable seersucker is characterized by comprising the following steps: weaving 28-32 s of warp yarns and 50-60 s of weft yarns to obtain gray fabric, and performing relaxation heat treatment to obtain comfortable seersucker;
the warp yarns are made of cotton fibers, and the weft yarns are made of polyamide yarns;
the preparation process of the polyamide filament comprises the following steps:
in the process of preparing the circular sheath-core composite fiber from two polyamides 6 with different viscosities according to the FDY process, the spinneret orifices on the spinneret plate are changed into a trilobal shape from a circular shape, circular blowing cooling is adopted, and the arrangement of the trilobal spinneret orifices on the spinneret plate is controlled to meet certain conditions, so that the polyamide filaments are prepared;
all the trilobal spinneret orifices are T-shaped orifices, the included angle ratio of the center lines of three leaves of the same trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0:1.0:2.0, the length and the width of the three leaves are the same, and the ratio of the length to the width is 2.5-3.5: 1; the three leaves of different trilobal spinneret orifices have the same shape and size;
the certain conditions are as follows: all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice, which is opposite to the maximum included angle, passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center.
2. The method of claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of the high viscosity polyamide 6 to the low viscosity polyamide 6 is 50: 50.
3. The preparation method of the comfortable seersucker as claimed in claim 2, wherein the intrinsic viscosity of the high-viscosity polyamide 6 is 2.50-2.60 dL/g, and the temperature of the spinning manifold corresponding to the high-viscosity polyamide 6 is 285-290 ℃; the low-viscosity polyamide 6 has an intrinsic viscosity of 2.20 to 2.31dL/g, and the temperature of a spinning beam corresponding to the low-viscosity polyamide 6 is 277 to 282 ℃.
4. The method as claimed in claim 3, wherein the FDY process parameters are as follows: the spinning temperature is 282-286 ℃, the cooling temperature is 17-22 ℃, the first-roller speed is 1800-2000 m/min, the first-roller temperature is 80-90 ℃, the second-roller speed is 3700-4000 m/min, the second-roller temperature is 140-152 ℃, and the winding speed is 3630-3910 m/min.
5. The method for preparing comfortable seersucker according to claim 4, wherein the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 90-120 ℃ for 20-30 min; the polyamide filament consists of a plurality of high-viscosity polyamide 6/low-viscosity polyamide 6 skin-core composite monofilaments with trilobal cross sections, an imaginary circle is made around the center of the trilobal, the part of the trilobal which is overlapped with the imaginary circle is a core layer, and the rest part is a skin layer.
6. The method for preparing comfortable seersucker according to claim 5, wherein before the relaxation heat treatment, the breaking strength of the polyamide filament is not less than 3.2cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 40.0 ± 4.0%, and the total fineness is 150-200 dtex.
7. The method as claimed in claim 5, wherein the polyamide filament has a twisted form and a three-dimensional curled form after the relaxation heat treatment, a crimp shrinkage of 51-58%, a crimp stability of 83-87%, a shrinkage elongation of 89-94%, a crimp elastic recovery of 85-89%, and a twist angle phi per unit length of 65-156 °/10 μm.
8. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein the comfortable seersucker has a weight of 100-130 g/m2The bubble width is 1.30-1.50 cm, the bubble density is 38-42/10 cm, and the fullness is 6.6-7.5; moisture absorption: the water absorption rate is more than or equal to 280 percent, the drip diffusion time is less than or equal to 2.0 seconds, and the wicking height is more than or equal to 138 mm; quick drying: the evaporation rate is more than or equal to 0.32 g/h.
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EP0434029A2 (en) * 1989-12-19 1991-06-26 Kuraray Co., Ltd. Moisture-absorbent composite fiber
CN101230498A (en) * 2007-01-22 2008-07-30 中国纺织科学研究院 Three-dimensional crimp fibre
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CN201648598U (en) * 2010-04-12 2010-11-24 吴书家 Spinning plate
KR20110054933A (en) * 2009-11-19 2011-05-25 대한동방 주식회사 Nonwoven fabric used in manfacturing steel moving roll with excellent durabity to acid and alkali
CN202337859U (en) * 2011-11-24 2012-07-18 湖州菁诚纺织品有限公司 Puckered fabric
CN202626430U (en) * 2012-05-18 2012-12-26 张家港市友邦氨纶纺织有限公司 Seersucker
KR101661122B1 (en) * 2015-12-31 2016-09-29 (주)아셈스 Manufacturing method of functional material having optical illusion

Patent Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0434029A2 (en) * 1989-12-19 1991-06-26 Kuraray Co., Ltd. Moisture-absorbent composite fiber
CN101230498A (en) * 2007-01-22 2008-07-30 中国纺织科学研究院 Three-dimensional crimp fibre
CN201220994Y (en) * 2008-07-03 2009-04-15 华明浩 Bidirectional elastic cloque
KR20110054933A (en) * 2009-11-19 2011-05-25 대한동방 주식회사 Nonwoven fabric used in manfacturing steel moving roll with excellent durabity to acid and alkali
CN201648598U (en) * 2010-04-12 2010-11-24 吴书家 Spinning plate
CN202337859U (en) * 2011-11-24 2012-07-18 湖州菁诚纺织品有限公司 Puckered fabric
CN202626430U (en) * 2012-05-18 2012-12-26 张家港市友邦氨纶纺织有限公司 Seersucker
KR101661122B1 (en) * 2015-12-31 2016-09-29 (주)아셈스 Manufacturing method of functional material having optical illusion

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