CN111304818B

CN111304818B - Manufacturing process of jacquard mesh channel fabric and jacquard mesh channel fabric

Info

Publication number: CN111304818B
Application number: CN202010119663.0A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 蔡清来; 刘恋; 叶美月; 廖妹英; 蔡燕玲; 许雅玲; 庄腾雄
Original assignee: Sincetech Fujian Technology Co Ltd
Current assignee: Xintai Shishi Technology Co ltd
Priority date: 2020-02-26
Filing date: 2020-02-26
Publication date: 2021-09-14
Anticipated expiration: 2040-02-26
Also published as: CN111304818A

Abstract

The invention relates to the technical field of knitting, in particular to a jacquard mesh channel fabric and a manufacturing process thereof, wherein the jacquard mesh channel fabric comprises five guide bars which are sequentially adjacent, a fabric surface layer is formed by padding yarn and looping on a double-needle-bed warp knitting machine through a guide bar GB1, jacquard guide bars JB1.1 and JB1.2 are used for carrying out jacquard process to form alternative arrangement of connecting yarns on the front side and the back side and disconnecting yarns, meanwhile, the guide bar GB3 assists the jacquard guide bars JB1.1 and JB1.2 to be knitted, a mesh channel layer is formed at a preset position, and the guide bar GB4 is used as a bottom layer of the fabric. The invention breaks through the process, leads the yarns to be alternately arranged and woven by front and back connecting yarns and unconnected yarns in the middle layer, simultaneously adds the guide bar for auxiliary weaving, locks and fixes the free yarns, tightly locks the yarns on the surface layer, prevents the yarns from forming flying yarns and causing obstruction to the formed mesh channel layer, and leads the filling material to be blocked and obliquely twisted.

Description

Manufacturing process of jacquard mesh channel fabric and jacquard mesh channel fabric

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of knitting, in particular to a jacquard mesh channel fabric and a manufacturing process thereof.

Background

Since 2012, a new technology of resisting grams, Flyknit, appeared, and wearing experience was like general braided shoe uppers of socks, which gradually raised the trend of simplifying the design of lightweight shoe uppers of various large brands.

However, the woven upper has excellent texture, but the yarn is too soft, resulting in good elasticity but insufficient hardness of the upper, and thus the upper is easily deformed as the sports and walking time is prolonged.

Aiming at the problem of weaving the shoe upper, at present, there are several main improvement modes:

1. aiming at the flexibility of the braided vamp, the TPU thread is woven in the braided vamp to increase the strength of the vamp, and the TPU is used for reinforcing the surface of the braided vamp to increase the stability of the braided vamp. However, this approach, while solving the support problem to some extent, does not solve the problem of the textile being easily deformed, at the expense of the massive upper losing some elasticity and breathability.

2. The lining, the bootie and the sponge are added to the woven vamp, so that the thicker vamp can provide more support and is more suitable for high-strength sports. However, this method results in the woven upper not being able to directly contact the foot, so that the woven upper loses its dynamic and elastic wrapping properties, the unique air permeability and lightness of the woven upper are also greatly reduced, and plastic deformation easily occurs when the foot is bent and moved.

3. The woven vamp is reinforced through strong and hard peripheral devices such as the supporting sheet, hot melting reinforcement, magic tape, insole upturning and the like, but the methods can lead to the fact that the integral feeling of the woven vamp is weakened, partial areas become uncomfortable, and even the phenomenon of foot clamping is caused.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to overcome the defects and provides a jacquard mesh channel fabric and a manufacturing process thereof.

In order to achieve the purpose, the technical solution of the invention is as follows:

a manufacturing process of a jacquard mesh channel fabric comprises the following steps:

s1, preparation of knitting: designing the pattern of the fabric on a computer, and processing a computer-operated file by using autonomous computer-operated software;

s2, guide bar configuration: selecting a double-needle bed warp knitting machine with at least five guide bars, wherein the five adjacent guide bars are sequentially a guide bar GB1, a jacquard guide bar JB1.1, a jacquard guide bar JB1.2, a guide bar GB3 and a guide bar GB4 according to arrangement positions;

s3, weaving on a machine: the guide bar GB1 is on the warp knitting machine, the backing yarn is looped to form a fabric surface layer, the guide bar GB4 is used as a fabric bottom layer, the jacquard guide bar JB1.1 and the jacquard guide bar JB1.2 are used for jacquard process, the alternative arrangement of front and back connecting yarns and unconnected yarns is formed, meanwhile, the guide bar GB3 assists the jacquard guide bar JB1.1 and the jacquard guide bar JB1.2 in knitting, free yarns of the jacquard guide bar JB1.2 are locked and fixed, a mesh channel layer is formed, and when the jacquard guide bar JB1.1 and the jacquard guide bar JB1.2 are used for unconnected yarn knitting, the guide bar GB3 is synchronously knitted on the surface layer, and the yarns are tightly locked on the surface layer.

Preferably, the mesh passage layer is composed of a mesh passage space and a mesh passage surface layer, and the mesh passage surface layer is formed by weaving a guide bar GB3, a jacquard guide bar JB1.1 and a jacquard guide bar JB1.2 together.

Preferably, the jacquard guide bar JB1.1 and the jacquard guide bar JB1.2 are split jacquard guide bars, that is, the jacquard guide bar JB1 of a full machine number is divided into two half machine numbers on a machine table, namely the jacquard guide bar JB1.1 and the jacquard guide bar JB 1.2.

Preferably, the guide bar GB1, the guide bar GB3 and the guide bar GB4 are threaded in a full-thread manner, and the jacquard guide bars JB1.1 and JB1.2 are all threaded in a thread-empty manner, that is, after each thread is threaded, a position is left and then the circular threading is continued.

Preferably, the jacquard guide bar JB1.1 and the jacquard guide bar JB1.2 are respectively provided with five pan heads, and 248 yarns are respectively penetrated through each pan head; the guide bar GB1, the guide bar GB3 and the guide bar GB4 respectively have five disc heads, and each disc head is respectively threaded with 496 yarns.

Preferably, the jacquard guide bars JB1.1 and JB1.2 adopt creels for let-off, and each guide bar is respectively penetrated with 1536 yarns; the guide bar GB1, the guide bar GB3 and the guide bar GB4 respectively have five disc heads, and each disc head is threaded with 512 yarns respectively.

Preferably, the basic structure of the laying yarn of the guide bar GB1 is as follows: 1-0-1-1/2-3-2-2//; the basic yarn laying organization of the jacquard guide bar JB1.1 is as follows: 1-0-1-1/1-2-1-1//; the basic yarn laying organization of the jacquard guide bar JB1.2 is as follows: 1-0-1-1/1-2-1-1//; the basic structure of the laying yarn of the guide bar GB3 is as follows: 1-0-1-1/1-2-1-1//; the basic structure of the laying yarn of the guide bar GB4 is as follows: 1-1-0-2/1-1-3-1//.

Preferably, the mesh channel layer is knitted and arranged at the position of phalanges, metatarsals and tarsal bones, particularly at the movable foot application position of the interphalangeal joints, metatarsophalangeal joints, interphalangeal joints, tarsal joints and the like.

The jacquard mesh channel fabric is manufactured by adopting the manufacturing process of the jacquard mesh channel fabric.

By adopting the technical scheme, the invention has the beneficial effects that:

1. the invention breaks through the process, leads the yarns to be alternately arranged and woven by front and back connecting yarns and unconnected yarns in the middle layer, simultaneously adds the guide bar for auxiliary weaving, locks and fixes the free yarns, tightly locks the yarns on the surface layer, prevents the yarns from forming flying yarns and causing obstruction to the formed mesh channel layer, and leads the filling material to be blocked and obliquely twisted.

2. According to the invention, the mesh cloth weaving mode is changed and the auxiliary yarn is combined for locking weaving, so that the finished surface layer of the fabric has a strong visual impact effect, the surface layer has three-dimensional lines which are strong and concave-convex, the face effect is diversified, and the fabric is more abundant and attractive.

3. The invention disperses the force applied on the vamp by the wearer by the mesh channel layer structure arranged at the positions of phalanges, metatarsus and tarsal bones, particularly at the movable application positions of feet such as phalanges, metatarsus and metatarsal joints, tarsal joints and the like, thereby evenly transmitting the force to the periphery along the surface of the mesh channel layer, reducing the unit area stress of the force on the surface of the mesh channel layer, further reducing the impact force on the vamp, improving the cushioning capacity of the vamp, and simultaneously solving the problem that the vamp is easy to deform along with the extension of the movement and walking time.

4. The invention breaks through the process, and combines the bottom layer jacquard process while changing the knitting mode of the mesh cloth, so that the knitted vamp has elastic wrapping performance without losing the dynamic state and unique ventilation and light feeling of the knitted vamp while solving the problem that the vamp is easy to deform.

5. The invention does not need a complex after-finishing process, greatly simplifies the whole process, fundamentally improves the design efficiency and the production benefit, and reduces the production cost.

Detailed Description

Example one

The embodiment provides a manufacturing process of a jacquard mesh channel fabric, which comprises the following steps:

s1, preparation of knitting: designing the pattern of the fabric on a computer, and processing a computer-operated file by using autonomous computer-operated software.

S2, guide bar configuration: selecting a double-needle bed warp knitting machine with not less than five guide bars, wherein the five adjacent guide bars are sequentially provided with a guide bar GB1, a jacquard guide bar JB1.1, a jacquard guide bar JB1.2, a guide bar GB3 and a guide bar GB4 according to arrangement positions.

Specifically, the mesh channel layer consists of a mesh channel space and a mesh channel surface layer, and the mesh channel surface layer is formed by weaving a guide bar GB3, a jacquard guide bar JB1.1 and a jacquard guide bar JB1.2 together

The jacquard guide bars JB1.1 and JB1.2 are separated jacquard guide bars, that is, the jacquard guide bar JB1.1 and the jacquard guide bar JB1.2 are divided into two half-bar numbers by a jacquard machine, namely a full-bar jacquard guide bar JB1 on the machine.

The guide bar GB1, the guide bar GB3 and the guide bar GB4 are threaded in a full-threading mode, and the jacquard guide bars JB1.1 and JB1.2 are all threaded in a threading-empty mode, namely, after each thread is threaded, a position is left and then the circular threading is continued.

The jacquard guide bar JB1.1 and jacquard guide bar JB1.2 are respectively provided with five pan heads, and 248 yarns are respectively penetrated through each pan head; the guide bar GB1, the guide bar GB3 and the guide bar GB4 respectively have five disc heads, and each disc head is respectively threaded with 496 yarns.

Any one of yarns can be used as the guide bar GB1, the jacquard guide bar JB1.1, the jacquard guide bar JB1.2, the guide bar GB3 and the guide bar GB4, and the used yarns are only related to the display color.

In this embodiment, the guide bars GB1, GB3 and GB4 are threaded with a polyester monofilament material, and the jacquard guide bars JB1.1 and JB1.2 are threaded with a low-stretch untwisted yarn.

Wherein, the basic structure of the laying yarn of the guide bar GB1 is as follows: 1-0-1-1/2-3-2-2//;

the basic yarn laying organization of the jacquard guide bar JB1.1 is as follows: 1-0-1-1/1-2-1-1//;

the basic yarn laying organization of the jacquard guide bar JB1.2 is as follows: 1-0-1-1/1-2-1-1//;

the basic structure of the laying yarn of the guide bar GB3 is as follows: 1-0-1-1/1-2-1-1//;

the basic structure of the laying yarn of the guide bar GB4 is as follows: 1-1-0-2/1-1-3-1//;

specifically, when jacquard guide bar JB1.1 and jacquard guide bar JB1.2 are not connected with yarns for weaving, guide bar GB3 participates in weaving on the surface layer synchronously, locks the yarns on the surface layer tightly, prevents the yarns from forming fly-line wandering, causes an obstacle to the formed mesh passage layer, and avoids the filling material arranged in the mesh passage layer from blocking and obliquely twisting. And the filling equipment fills the filling material into the mesh channel layer to form a jacquard mesh channel fabric.

Preferably, the mesh channel layer is knitted and arranged on the vamp at positions corresponding to phalanges, metatarsals and tarsal bones of the foot, particularly at positions where the foot is movably applied, such as interphalangeal joints, metatarsophalangeal joints, interphalangeal joints and tarsal joints, and the force applied to the vamp by a wearer is dispersed by virtue of the structure of the mesh channel layer, so that the force is uniformly transmitted to the periphery along the surface of the mesh channel layer, the force applied to the unit area of the surface of the mesh channel layer is reduced, the impact force on the vamp is further reduced, the shock absorption capability of the vamp is improved, and the problem that the vamp is easy to deform along with the extension of movement and walking time is solved. In the present embodiment, since the phalanges, the metatarsals, the tarsal bones, the interphalangeal joints, the metatarsophalangeal joints, the interphalangeal joints, and the tarsal joints are specific parts in the biomedical field and the specific positions thereof are known, the phalanges, the metatarsals, the tarsal bones, the interphalangeal joints, the metatarsophalangeal joints, the tarsal joints, and the tarsal joints are medically clearly positioned.

Example two

Specifically, jacquard guide bar JB1.1 and jacquard guide bar JB1.2 adopt creels for let-off, and each guide bar is respectively penetrated with 1536 yarns. The guide bar GB1, the guide bar GB3 and the guide bar GB4 respectively have five disc heads, and each disc head is threaded with 512 yarns respectively.

The above description is only for the purpose of illustrating the preferred embodiments of the present invention and is not to be construed as limiting the invention, and any modifications, equivalents, improvements and the like that fall within the spirit and principle of the present invention are intended to be included therein.

Claims

1. A manufacturing process of a jacquard mesh channel fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps:

2. The process of making a jacquard eye channel fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the mesh channel layer consists of a mesh channel space and a mesh channel surface layer, and the mesh channel surface layer is formed by weaving guide bars GB3, jacquard guide bars JB1.1 and jacquard guide bars JB1.2 together.

3. The process of making a jacquard eye channel fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the jacquard guide bar JB1.1 and the jacquard guide bar JB1.2 are separated jacquard guide bars, namely the jacquard guide bar JB1.1 and the jacquard guide bar JB1.2 which divide a full machine number jacquard guide bar JB1 into two half machine numbers on a machine table.

4. The process of making a jacquard eye channel fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the guide bar GB1, the guide bar GB3 and the guide bar GB4 are threaded in a full-threading mode, the jacquard guide bars JB1.1 and the jacquard guide bars JB1.2 are all threaded in a threading-empty mode, namely, after each thread is threaded, a position is left, and then the circular threading is continued.

5. The process of making a jacquard eye channel fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the jacquard guide bar JB1.1 and the jacquard guide bar JB1.2 are respectively provided with five pan heads, and 248 yarns are respectively penetrated through each pan head; the guide bar GB1, the guide bar GB3 and the guide bar GB4 respectively have five disc heads, and each disc head is respectively threaded with 496 yarns.

6. The process of making a jacquard eye channel fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the jacquard guide bars JB1.1 and JB1.2 adopt creels to let off warp, and each guide bar is respectively penetrated with 1536 yarns; the guide bar GB1, the guide bar GB3 and the guide bar GB4 respectively have five disc heads, and each disc head is threaded with 512 yarns respectively.

7. The process of making a jacquard eye channel fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the basic structure of the laying yarn of the guide bar GB1 is as follows: 1-0-1-1/2-3-2-2//; the basic yarn laying organization of the jacquard guide bar JB1.1 is as follows: 1-0-1-1/1-2-1-1//; the basic yarn laying organization of the jacquard guide bar JB1.2 is as follows: 1-0-1-1/1-2-1-1//; the basic structure of the laying yarn of the guide bar GB3 is as follows: 1-0-1-1/1-2-1-1//; the basic structure of the laying yarn of the guide bar GB4 is as follows: 1-1-0-2/1-1-3-1//.

8. The process of making a jacquard eye channel fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the mesh channel layer is woven and arranged at the positions of phalanges, metatarsals and tarsal bones, including the positions of interphalangeal joints, metatarsophalangeal joints, interphalangeal joints and tarsal joints.

9. A jacquard eye channel fabric, characterized in that: manufactured by the process of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 8.