CN104233621A - Three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种立体提花三明治织物,该织物包括上层结构、下层结构和中间层结构。所述上层结构和下层结构由细旦透明单丝编织形成透明底布,所述中间层结构采用具有一定弹性的合成复丝为编织料,利用贾卡针的针前和针背偏移,按一定花型进行组合,形成各种花纹图案,并透过透明的上层底布和下层底布显露在织物表面,在表面形成凹凸提花效应,可在三维结构中产生镂空立体花纹的良好效果。本发明实例的织物花纹立体感强,织物手感、舒适性和功能性均明显提高,主要应用于女士文胸和鞋材等领域。
The invention discloses a three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric, which comprises an upper layer structure, a lower layer structure and a middle layer structure. The upper structure and the lower structure are woven from fine denier transparent monofilaments to form a transparent base fabric, and the middle layer structure uses synthetic multifilaments with certain elasticity as the braiding material. Certain patterns are combined to form various patterns, which are exposed on the surface of the fabric through the transparent upper and lower base fabrics, forming a concave-convex jacquard effect on the surface, which can produce a good effect of hollowed-out three-dimensional patterns in the three-dimensional structure. The fabric pattern of the example of the invention has a strong three-dimensional effect, and the hand feeling, comfort and functionality of the fabric are all significantly improved, and it is mainly used in fields such as ladies' bras and shoe materials.
Description
技术领域technical field
本发明涉及纺织提花织物技术领域,具体涉及一种立体提花三明治织物。The invention relates to the technical field of textile jacquard fabrics, in particular to a three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric.
背景技术Background technique
经编三明治织物是在双针床拉舍尔机器上生产出的具有三维立体结构的织物,主要由一个上层结构、一个下层结构和一个能够保持上、下层结构彼此间距的中间支撑线相连接的织物物品。一般其上层和下层结构原料多采用合成复丝,如涤纶或锦纶长丝等,中间支撑线采用韧性和回弹性较好的纱线,如涤纶单丝等。目前该类织物形成花纹的方式主要分为三种,具体如下:The warp-knitted sandwich fabric is a fabric with a three-dimensional structure produced on a double-needle bed Raschel machine. It is mainly connected by an upper structure, a lower structure and an intermediate support line that can maintain the distance between the upper and lower structures. fabric items. Generally, the raw materials of the upper and lower layers are mostly synthetic multifilaments, such as polyester or nylon filaments, and the middle support thread is made of yarns with good toughness and resilience, such as polyester monofilaments. At present, there are mainly three ways to form patterns on such fabrics, as follows:
(a)利用空穿、色纱等穿纱方式在上层或下层结构底布上形成网眼或双色效应;(a) Form a mesh or two-color effect on the upper or lower structural base fabric by using empty threading, colored yarn and other threading methods;
(b)采用电子横移提花技术,对上层或下层结构进行提花,在织物上层和下层底布上形成几何花纹案,如不同形状和大小的网眼结构;(b) Using electronic traverse jacquard technology to jacquard the upper or lower structure, and form geometric patterns on the upper and lower base fabrics of the fabric, such as mesh structures of different shapes and sizes;
(c)采用贾卡提花技术,对上层或下层织物进行提花,在织物一面形成提花花纹图案。(c) Using jacquard technology to jacquard the upper or lower fabric to form a jacquard pattern on one side of the fabric.
然而,目前市场上间隔织物提花的方式仅限于对上、下层底布提花,仅在织物表层形成花纹图案,所以立体感不强,且由于中间层一般采用单丝连接,织物上下层之间导湿效果不好,还有传统三明治织物手感比较硬挺,与人体接触的柔软和舒适度不佳,影响其在女士文胸等服用领域的实际应用。However, the way of spacer fabric jacquard currently on the market is limited to the jacquard of the upper and lower layers, and only forms patterns on the surface of the fabric, so the three-dimensional effect is not strong. The wet effect is not good, and the traditional sandwich fabric feels relatively stiff, and the softness and comfort in contact with the human body are not good, which affects its practical application in the field of wear such as women's bras.
发明内容Contents of the invention
鉴于此,本发明公开了一种立体提花三明治织物,该种三明治织物具有较好的立体提花效果和穿着的舒适度,该种立体提花三明治织物包括:上层结构、下层结构和中间层结构。In view of this, the present invention discloses a three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric. The three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric has better three-dimensional jacquard effect and wearing comfort. The three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric includes: an upper layer structure, a lower layer structure and a middle layer structure.
所述立体提花三明治织物中的上层结构和下层结构采用透明的细旦单丝编织而成,如30D涤纶单丝。The upper structure and the lower structure in the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric are woven with transparent fine denier monofilament, such as 30D polyester monofilament.
所述立体提花三明治织物中的上层结构和下层结构采用的纱线成为底纱;所述立体提花三明治织物中的上层结构和下层结构采用编链、衬纬、经平或变化编链、变化经平编织而成。The yarn used in the upper structure and the lower structure in the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric becomes the bottom yarn; Flat woven.
所述立体提花三明治织物中的上层结构和下层结构可以由平布或网眼或提花花纹组成。The upper layer structure and the lower layer structure in the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric can be composed of plain cloth or mesh or jacquard patterns.
所述立体提花三明治织物中的上层底布和下层底布形成透明的底布。The upper base fabric and the lower base fabric in the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric form a transparent base fabric.
所述立体提花三明治织物中的中间层结构采用具有一定弹性的合成复丝纤维,如涤纶低弹丝、涤纶高弹丝或海岛丝纤维等。The middle layer structure in the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric adopts synthetic multifilament fibers with certain elasticity, such as polyester low-elasticity yarn, polyester high-elasticity yarn or island-in-the-sea fiber.
所述立体提花三明治织物中的中间层结构采用的纱线称为连接纱。The yarn used in the middle layer structure in the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric is called connecting yarn.
所述立体提花三明治织物中的中间层结构采用贾卡装置提花形成,利用贾卡针的针前和针背偏移来控制连接纱的编织与不编织。The middle layer structure in the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric is formed by Jacquard device jacquard, and the knitting and non-knitting of the connecting yarn is controlled by using the jacquard needle front and needle back offset.
所述立体提花三明治织物中的连接纱通过贾卡装置进行编织,形成上层和下层之间的连接线、上层底布、下层底布或浮线;对由连接纱形成的连接线、上层底布、下层底布或浮线进行组合,形成不同形状的花纹,如几何图案、花卉图案、动物图案等。The connecting yarn in the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric is woven by a jacquard device to form a connecting line between the upper layer and the lower layer, an upper base cloth, a lower base cloth or a floating line; for the connecting line formed by the connecting yarn, the upper base cloth , lower base fabric or floating lines are combined to form patterns of different shapes, such as geometric patterns, floral patterns, animal patterns, etc.
所述立体提花三明治织物中的中间层结构形成的花纹图案可在CAD软件中设计,然后将花型工艺导入机器编织而成;同样,中间层结构的花纹区和过渡区的中间纱排布密度也可以进行设计,如满穿、一穿一空、两穿两空等。The decorative pattern formed by the middle layer structure in the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric can be designed in CAD software, and then the pattern technology is imported into the machine to weave; similarly, the middle yarn arrangement density of the pattern area and the transition area of the middle layer structure It can also be designed, such as full wear, one wear and one empty, two wear and two empty, etc.
所述立体提花三明治织物中的中间层结构形成的花型可以透过透明的上层底布和下层底布显露出来,其中,中间纱在上下层连接的部分透光度很弱,表现为花纹区;在上层或下层形成底布的部分透光度较弱,表现为过渡区;在上层和下层底布均不参与编织的部分,以浮线形式存在上下层底布之间,表现为镂空区。The pattern formed by the middle layer structure in the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric can be revealed through the transparent upper and lower base fabrics, wherein, the light transmittance of the part where the middle yarn connects the upper and lower layers is very weak, which is manifested as a pattern area ;The light transmittance of the part of the base fabric formed on the upper or lower layer is weak, which is shown as a transition zone; the part where the upper and lower base fabrics do not participate in weaving exists between the upper and lower base fabrics in the form of floating lines, which is shown as a hollow area .
所述立体提花三明治织物中的上层底布或下层底布在有连接纱的部分表现为凸部分,在无连接纱的部分表现为凹部分。The upper base fabric or the lower base fabric in the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric is convex at the part with connecting yarns, and concave at the part without connecting yarns.
所述立体提花三明治织物中的连接纱也可以采用两种或两种以上的原料形成不同颜色效应的花纹图案。The connecting yarns in the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric can also use two or more raw materials to form pattern patterns with different color effects.
所述立体提花三明治织物中的连接纱也可以采用功能性纤维编织,形成具有一定功能性的三维立体织物,如吸湿排汗、抗菌等功能性产品。The connecting yarns in the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric can also be woven with functional fibers to form a three-dimensional three-dimensional fabric with certain functions, such as moisture-wicking, antibacterial and other functional products.
从上述技术方案可以看出,本发明实现的是一种立体提花三明治织物,该种立体提花三明治织物包括:上层结构、下层结构和中间层结构,其特征在于该种三明治织物的上层结构和下层结构均采用透明的细旦单丝进行编织,形成透明的上层底布和下层底布,并利用贾卡提花装置对中间层结构的连接纱进行提花编织,形成的花纹图案如几何图案、花卉图案、动物图案等透过透明的上层底布或下层底布显露在织物表面,织物表面具有显示凹凸效应的花纹,织物整体具有镂空花纹的立体效果;如所述立体提花三明治织物中的连接纱采用具有一定弹性的合成复丝纤维,如涤纶低弹丝、涤纶高弹丝或海岛丝纤维等,明显改善了织物的柔软性,连接纱采用两种或两种以上的不同颜色的原料纤维,形成不同颜色效应的花纹图案;连接纱也可以采用具有吸湿排汗、抗菌功能的纤维编织,形成具有一定功能性的三维立体织物,织物手感和导湿效果明显提高。As can be seen from the above technical scheme, what the present invention realizes is a kind of three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric, and this kind of three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric comprises: upper layer structure, lower layer structure and middle layer structure, it is characterized in that the upper layer structure and the lower layer of this kind of sandwich fabric The structure is woven with transparent fine denier monofilament to form a transparent upper and lower base fabric, and the Jacquard jacquard device is used to jacquard weave the connecting yarn of the middle layer structure to form patterns such as geometric patterns and flower patterns. , animal patterns, etc. are exposed on the surface of the fabric through the transparent upper or lower base fabric, the surface of the fabric has a pattern showing a concave-convex effect, and the fabric as a whole has a three-dimensional effect of a hollow pattern; as the connecting yarn in the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric adopts Synthetic multifilament fibers with certain elasticity, such as polyester low-elasticity yarn, polyester high-elasticity yarn or sea-island silk fiber, etc., can obviously improve the softness of the fabric. The connecting yarn uses two or more raw materials of different colors to form Patterns with different color effects; connecting yarns can also be woven with fibers with moisture-wicking and anti-bacterial functions to form a three-dimensional fabric with certain functions, and the fabric feel and moisture-wicking effect are significantly improved.
所述立体提花三明治织物中的中间层结构形成的花纹图案通过在CAD软件中上进行花型设计,然后将花型工艺导入机器编织而成。The pattern pattern formed by the middle layer structure in the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric is formed by pattern design in CAD software, and then the pattern process is introduced into the machine for weaving.
所述立体提花三明治织物中的中间层结构的花纹区和过渡区的中间纱排布密度可以设计成满穿、一穿一空、两穿两空等多种形式。The arrangement density of the intermediate yarns in the pattern area and the transition area of the intermediate layer structure in the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric can be designed in various forms such as full wear, one wear and one empty, two wear and two empty.
所述立体提花三明治织物的上层底布和下层底布组织结构可以是由经平、编链或衬纬组织形成的平布,也可以是通过空穿或组织变换形成的网眼织物。The structure of the upper base fabric and the lower base fabric of the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric can be plain fabric formed by warp flat, chain knitting or weft insertion, or mesh fabric formed by empty threading or weave transformation.
所述立体提花三明治织物中的连接纱在上层底布和下层底布上进行选择性编织,其中上层底布或下层底布在有连接纱的部分表现为凸部分,在无连接纱的部分表现为凹部分,进而在织物表层形成凹凸花纹。The connecting yarns in the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric are selectively woven on the upper base fabric and the lower base fabric, wherein the upper base fabric or the lower base fabric is a convex part in the part with the connecting yarn, and a convex part in the part without the connecting yarn. It is a concave part, and then forms a concave-convex pattern on the surface of the fabric.
附图说明Description of drawings
图1是立体提花三明治织物的立体示意性效果图;Fig. 1 is a three-dimensional schematic rendering of a three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric;
图2是连接纱在织物表层的线圈密度分布图;Fig. 2 is the loop density distribution diagram of connecting yarn on the fabric surface;
图3是立体提花三明治织物的截面图;Fig. 3 is the sectional view of three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric;
图4是立体提花三明治织物的水平方向剖视图。Fig. 4 is a horizontal sectional view of the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric.
具体实施方式Detailed ways
下面将结合本发明的实施例中的附图,对本发明实施例中的技术方案进行清楚、完整地描述,显然,所描述的实施例仅仅是本发明一部分实施例,而不是全部的实施例。基于本发明中的实施例,本领域普通技术人员在没有作出创造性劳动前提下所获得的所有其他实施例,都属于本发明保护的范围。The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings in the embodiments of the present invention. Obviously, the described embodiments are only some of the embodiments of the present invention, not all of them. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by persons of ordinary skill in the art without creative efforts fall within the protection scope of the present invention.
本发明实施例公开了一种立体提花三明治织物,以提高三明治织物立体提花效果和穿着舒适度。The embodiment of the invention discloses a three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric to improve the three-dimensional jacquard effect and wearing comfort of the sandwich fabric.
图1示出了一种立体提花三明治织物的立体示意性效果图。所述立体提花三明治织物1包括由细旦的透明单丝形成的上层底布2、下层底布3和由高弹丝形成的中间层4。Fig. 1 shows a three-dimensional schematic rendering of a three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric. The three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric 1 includes an upper base fabric 2 formed of fine denier transparent monofilament, a lower base fabric 3 and a middle layer 4 formed of high elastic yarn.
所述立体提花三明治织物1的上层底布2和下层底布3的组织结构可以是由经平或编链和衬纬组织形成的平布,也可以是通过空穿或组织变换形成的网眼织物。The structure of the upper base cloth 2 and the lower base cloth 3 of the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric 1 can be a plain cloth formed by warp flat or knitting chain and weft insertion, or a mesh fabric formed by empty threading or tissue transformation. .
通过贾卡装置在中间层4的织物表面提花形成花纹图案5。The jacquard pattern 5 is formed on the fabric surface of the middle layer 4 by a jacquard device.
所述立体提花三明治织物1的中间层4形成的花纹图案5由花纹区6、过渡区7和镂空区8组成。The pattern 5 formed by the middle layer 4 of the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric 1 is composed of a pattern area 6 , a transition area 7 and a hollow area 8 .
图2示出了立体提花三明治织物1中的连接纱在织物表面线圈密度分布图。Fig. 2 shows the distribution diagram of the loop density of the connecting yarns in the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric 1 on the surface of the fabric.
其中,线圈密集区9是连接纱在上层底布2和下层底布3形成连接线的区域,其对应于花纹区6;线圈稀疏区10是连接纱仅连接到上层底布2或下层底布3的区域,其对应于过渡区7;所述立体提花三明治织物1中的无线圈区11是连接纱在上层底布2和下层底布3上均不形成线圈的区域,其对应于镂空区8。Among them, the loop dense area 9 is the area where the connecting yarn forms a connecting line between the upper base fabric 2 and the lower base fabric 3, which corresponds to the pattern area 6; the loop sparse area 10 is where the connecting yarn is only connected to the upper base fabric 2 or the lower base fabric. 3, which corresponds to the transition zone 7; the non-coil zone 11 in the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric 1 is the zone where the connecting yarn does not form loops on the upper base fabric 2 and the lower base fabric 3, which corresponds to the hollow area 8.
图3示出了立体提花三明治织物的横截面结构。中间层4包括有连接纱部分12和无连接纱部分13。Fig. 3 shows the cross-sectional structure of the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric. The middle layer 4 includes a connecting yarn part 12 and a non-connecting yarn part 13 .
图4示出了立体提花三明治织物的水平方向剖面结构。由连接纱形成的连接线部分14、连接纱在上层或下层形成底布的部分15和连接纱在上层和下层均不形成线圈的浮线部分16分别与线圈密集区9、线圈稀疏区10和无线圈区11对应。Fig. 4 shows the horizontal section structure of the three-dimensional jacquard sandwich fabric. The connecting line part 14 formed by the connecting yarn, the part 15 where the connecting yarn forms the base cloth in the upper layer or the lower layer and the floating line part 16 where the connecting yarn does not form loops in the upper layer and the lower layer are respectively connected with the coil dense area 9, the coil sparse area 10 and the The coil-free area 11 corresponds.
需要说明的是所述织物可根据产品需求,设计出不同花纹图案,可应用于女士文胸、鞋材等领域。It should be noted that the fabric can be designed with different patterns according to product requirements, and can be applied to fields such as women's bras and shoe materials.
所述织物中的连接纱在进行上层和下层连接线区域编织时,连接纱密度可以进行设计,形成满穿或带有空穿的效果。When the connecting yarns in the fabric are woven in the upper layer and the lower layer connecting line regions, the density of the connecting yarns can be designed to form the effect of full wear or empty wear.
所述织物在连接纱形成上层或下层底布时,需要对该区域花型进行合理设计,可以采用仅在一面进行底布编织,或在上层和下层进行疏密编织。也可以结合花型设计,编织带有图案和一定规律的底布工艺。When the fabric is connected with yarns to form the upper or lower base fabric, the pattern in this area needs to be reasonably designed, and the base fabric can be woven on only one side, or densely woven on the upper and lower layers. It can also be combined with pattern design to weave patterned and regular base fabric technology.
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