CN111286831A - Production process of all-wool natural-elastic anti-bending core-spun yarn - Google Patents
Production process of all-wool natural-elastic anti-bending core-spun yarn Download PDFInfo
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- CN111286831A CN111286831A CN201811492098.1A CN201811492098A CN111286831A CN 111286831 A CN111286831 A CN 111286831A CN 201811492098 A CN201811492098 A CN 201811492098A CN 111286831 A CN111286831 A CN 111286831A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/24—Bulked yarns or threads, e.g. formed from staple fibre components with different relaxation characteristics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/36—Cored or coated yarns or threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/44—Yarns or threads characterised by the purpose for which they are designed
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02J—FINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
- D02J1/00—Modifying the structure or properties resulting from a particular structure; Modifying, retaining, or restoring the physical form or cross-sectional shape, e.g. by use of dies or squeeze rollers
- D02J1/02—Bulking, e.g. looping
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
- D06B3/04—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of yarns, threads or filaments
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
- D06B9/00—Solvent-treatment of textile materials
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/062—Load-responsive characteristics stiff, shape retention
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
Abstract
The invention relates to the technical field of spinning, and provides a production process of full-wool natural-elasticity bending-resistant core-spun yarn, which is carried out according to the following steps: 1) combing again; 2) spinning; 3) steaming yarn for wet heat setting; 4) core-spun and strong-twisted; 5) untwisting the core layer; 6) steaming and puffing; 7) and drying for later use. The invention has the beneficial effects that: 1) the sirofil spinning method is selected to spin special yarns with strong twist in the core layer and soft and fluffy wrapping yarns, so that the special core-spun structure yarns with tight strong twist inside and fluffy, soft and comfortable outside are obtained. The elongation at break of the prepared core-spun yarn reaches 3-4 times of that of the conventional variety; 2) due to the special yarn heavy twist structure, the core layer provides certain bending resistance rigidity, the core layer is not easy to deform along the radial direction of the yarn, the outer layer is fluffy and soft, the flexibility along the axial direction of the yarn is good, and the yarn heavy twist yarn is suitable for being applied to non-ironing anti-wrinkle fabrics. Fabrics and clothes prepared by the all-wool natural stretch bending-resistant yarn have excellent high shape-preserving and easy-care effects, and the elastic elongation is 2-3 times of that of the conventional variety; and the clothes are soft and are not easy to fluff and pilling in the taking process.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of spinning, in particular to a production process of full-wool natural-elasticity bending-resistant core-spun yarn.
Background
Wool fiber, a typical natural keratin fiber, has natural crimp and good elasticity, but has limited elasticity compared to spandex, PPT, and other chemical fibers. At present, the yarn used by the high-shape-preserving easy-care wool fabric is generally spun by wool fiber and elastic fiber, such as lycra, PTT, sorona and the like, in a plying and core-spun structure. The patent name of the invention is 'a super-elastic warm-keeping core-spun yarn', Chinese invention patent (CN201610640516.1) takes a mixed twisted yarn of spandex filament and nylon yarn as a core layer and a mixed twisted fiber layer of cashmere and tencel fiber as a winding layer. However, because the spandex is not resistant to high temperature and has general dyeing performance, the phenomena of core exposure, loss of elasticity and the like are easy to occur in the process of washing after the spandex is taken. The invention discloses a yakwool-wrapped core-spun yarn and a production method thereof, and the Chinese invention patent (CN201610859864.8) takes a filament yarn or a short fiber spun yarn as a core layer and a weakly twisted yakwool strip as a coating layer, but the prepared core-spun yarn does not have comfortable elasticity, has general bending rigidity, and is not suitable for developing high-shape-preserving easy-care fabrics. In conclusion, it is very important to develop an all-wool natural-elastic bending-resistant covering yarn.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to overcome the defects in the prior art and provides a production process of full-wool natural-elasticity bending-resistant core-spun yarn, which obtains natural-elasticity yarn with strong twist inside and fluffy outside from wool fibers with general elasticity by a special spinning method and a special processing method, overcomes the dependence of high-shape-retention easy-care wool fabric on elastic chemical fiber, avoids the phenomena of core exposure and elasticity loss, enhances the stiffness, smoothness and hand feeling requirements required by the high-shape-retention easy-care fabric, and is a potential substitute yarn raw material of the high-shape-retention easy-care wool fabric.
The object of the invention can be achieved by the following technical solution.
A production process of full-wool natural-elasticity bending-resistant core-spun yarn comprises the following process steps:
1) combing again; 2) spinning; 3) steaming yarn for wet heat setting; 4) core-spun and strong-twisted; 5) untwisting the core layer; 6) steaming and puffing; 7) drying for later use;
in a preferred embodiment of the invention, the step 1) complex combing process sequentially comprises the steps of felt removing, sliver mixing, first needle, second needle, combing, third needle and final roving; the draft multiple of the first needle, the second needle and the third needle is controlled to be 5-9 times, and the draft multiple of the combing procedure is controlled to be 4-6 times;
in a preferred embodiment of the invention, the spinning step 2) is to spin the full-wool medium-high twist spun yarn from the rough yarn by a german dawson Fiomax compact spinning frame; the fixed quantity of the roving slivers is 6-7.5g/m, the multiple of a rear drawing area of a compact spinning frame is controlled to be 1.01-1.3, the twisting direction Z of spun yarns is provided, and the twisting coefficient is 80-90;
in a preferred embodiment of the invention, the step 3) of steaming yarn wet heat setting is to twist the fully-twisted single wool yarn in a middle-high twist manner by a yarn vacuum wetting yarn steaming machine; the specific process is 1) vacuumizing; 2) treating the yarn with saturated high-temperature steam for a period of time, and twisting; 3) slowly opening the air pressure valve, and taking out the yarn when the internal air pressure and the external air pressure are balanced. The vacuum degree of the vacuum pumping is 90-95%, the saturated steam temperature of the yarn steaming and twist is 100-120 ℃, and the yarn steaming time is 40-60 min.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the core-spun over-twisting process in the step 4) is to use the medium over-twisted full-wool single yarn after the above-mentioned twist setting as a core layer of the core-spun yarn and the full-wool roving as an outer layer of the core-spun yarn through a sirofil spinning process; twisting continuously in the same direction to form full-wool natural core-spun yarn; the siro-field spinning is characterized in that a long filament and a short fiber roving are respectively fed, a fixed distance is kept between the filament and a holding point of a front traction roller to form a triangular area, and the filament and the short fiber roving are twisted together to form the siro-field core-spun composite yarn.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the siro spinning twisting in the step 4) has a twisting twist coefficient of 70-85, a twisting direction Z and a draft ratio of 1.01-1.1.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, in the step 5), the core layer untwisting process is carried out, and the full-wool natural stretch yarn is placed in warm water at 70-80 ℃ for untwisting treatment for 10-15 min.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, in the step 6), the steaming and puffing treatment process comprises the steps of putting the all-wool natural stretch yarn into a high-temperature and high-pressure dye vat for steaming and puffing treatment, adding 5-10% (owf) hydrogen peroxide and adding 2-2.5% formic acid to adjust the pH of the treatment solution to 4-5.5.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the step 6) of the steaming and puffing treatment process has the steaming and puffing treatment temperature of 95-100 ℃ and the steaming pressure of 4-5kg/m2The puffing treatment time is 15-20 min.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the step 7) is dried for standby, and the processed yarn is placed in a hot air dryer for drying; the drying temperature is 100-.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
(1) the method is characterized in that a sirofel core-spun method is selected to spin special soft and fluffy yarns with core layers of strong twist and outer covering yarns, a ring spinning frame is adopted to apply medium-strong twist to full-wool single yarns, then sirofel spinning equipment is adopted to apply certain twist to the core-spun yarns in the same direction by taking the medium-strong twist single yarns as core yarns, and thus the special core-spun structure yarns with the inside of strong twist, compactness, fluffiness, softness and comfort are obtained. The prepared core-spun yarn is subjected to local untwisting by mixing warm water with an auxiliary agent at the later stage, so that a spiral shape is formed in the yarn, and the excellent elongation at break is obtained, which is 3-4 times that of the common yarn.
(2) Due to the special yarn heavy twist structure, the core layer provides certain bending resistance rigidity, the core layer is not easy to deform along the radial direction of the yarn, the outer layer is fluffy and soft, the flexibility along the axial direction of the yarn is good, and the yarn heavy twist yarn is suitable for being applied to non-ironing anti-wrinkle fabrics. Fabrics and clothes prepared by the all-wool natural stretch bending-resistant yarn have excellent high shape-preserving and easy-care effects, and the elastic elongation is 2-3 times of that of the conventional variety; and the clothes are soft and are not easy to fluff and pilling in the taking process.
Detailed Description
The following describes embodiments of the present invention in detail.
(1) The spinning process comprises the following steps:
1) combing again: sequentially performing the procedures of felt removal, strip mixing, first needle, second needle, combing, third needle and final roving; the draft multiple of the first needle, the second needle and the third needle is controlled to be 7 times, and the draft multiple of the combing procedure is controlled to be 5.5 times;
2) spinning: the wool roving is used for spinning full-wool medium-high twist spun yarn by a German Prussian Fiomax compact spinning frame. Wherein, the ration of the roving slivers is 6g/m, the multiple of the back traction area of the compact spinning frame is controlled to be 1.01, the twisting direction Z of the spun yarn is provided, and the twisting coefficient is 90.
3) Wet heat setting of the steamed yarn: and (3) carrying out centering and heavy twisting on the all-wool single yarn for twist setting through a yarn vacuum moistening and steaming machine. The specific process is 1) vacuumizing; 2) treating the yarn with saturated high-temperature steam for a period of time, and twisting; 3) slowly opening the air pressure valve, and taking out the yarns when the internal air pressure and the external air pressure are balanced; the vacuum degree of the vacuum pumping is 92%, the saturated steam temperature of the yarn steaming and the twist setting is 100 ℃, and the yarn steaming time is 40 min.
4) Core-spun and strong-twist: the Sirofil spinning process uses the medium strong-twist full-wool single yarn after the fixed twist as a core layer of the core-spun yarn, and uses full-wool roving as an outer layer of the core-spun yarn; and twisting in the same direction to form the full-wool natural core-spun yarn. The twisting coefficient of siro spinning is 80, the twisting direction is Z, and the drafting multiple is 1.05.
5) Untwisting the core layer: placing the core-spun yarn in 70 deg.C warm water, untwisting for 15min
6) And (3) steaming and puffing treatment: putting the full-wool natural stretch yarn into a high-temperature high-pressure dye vat for steaming and puffing treatment. Adding 10 percent (owf) of hydrogen peroxide and 2 percent of formic acid into the dye vat to adjust the pH value of the treatment solution to 4-5.5. The treatment temperature is 100 ℃, and the steaming pressure is 4.8kg/m2The treatment time is 15 min;
7) drying for later use: and (3) placing the treated yarn in a hot air drier, and drying for 60min at 110 ℃.
(2) The all-wool natural stretch bending-resistant covering yarn with the same yarn count and specification and the conventional all-wool single yarn are tested, the test results are shown in table 1, and the breaking elongation of the covering yarn reaches 3-4 times of that of the conventional variety.
TABLE 1 comparison of the results of the flexural modulus and tensile properties of the yarns
And then, the yarns in the table 1 are respectively made into the full-wool natural stretch bending-resistant fabric and the full-wool conventional fabric by the same weaving method and the same batch finishing process, and the elastic elongation and the elastic recovery rate of the fabric are tested by ASTM D3107-2003 elastic recovery rate of stretch woven fabric stretchers, and the results are shown in the table 2.
The process comprises the steps of warping, weaving, raw trimming, singeing, single falling, open washing and continuous boiling, drying, heat setting, high-speed washing, double boiling, drying, intermediate detection, well trimming, brush shearing, KD tank steaming and preshrinking, wherein the main process parameters of weaving are that the warp density of ① is 308 pieces/10 cm 295 pieces/10 cm, the twill structure of ② is 2/1, and the weight of ③ square meter is 213.3g/cm2。
Table 2 comparison of elastic elongation and recovery test results of fabrics
From the test results of the yarns in the table 1, the evenness unevenness and the breaking strength of the all-wool natural stretch bending-resistant covering yarn are basically consistent with those of the conventional all-wool yarns, and the weaving requirements are met; the tensile elastic modulus, the bending modulus and the elongation at break are all superior to those of the conventional all-wool yarn variety, and the all-wool yarn has better radial bending resistance and elasticity and meets the raw material requirement of the high-shape-preserving easy-care fabric. From the elasticity test results of the fabric in table 2, the all-wool natural elastic bending-resistant fabric has excellent elastic elongation which is 2-3 times that of the conventional all-wool fabric.
Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the foregoing embodiments, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that changes may be made in the embodiments and/or equivalents thereof without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Any modification, equivalent replacement, or improvement made within the spirit and principle of the present invention should be included in the protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (9)
1. A production process of full-wool natural-elasticity bending-resistant core-spun yarn is characterized in that: the method comprises the following steps:
1) combing again; 2) spinning; 3) steaming yarn for wet heat setting; 4) core-spun and strong-twisted; 5) untwisting the core layer; 6) steaming and puffing; 7) drying for later use; step 4) the core-spun twisting-strengthening process is to use the medium strong-twist full-wool single yarn subjected to the fixed twisting in the step 3) as a core layer of the core-spun yarn through a Sirofil spinning process, and use full-wool roving as an outer layer of the core-spun yarn; twisting continuously in the same direction to form full-wool natural core-spun yarn; the siro-field spinning is characterized in that a long filament and a short fiber roving are respectively fed, a fixed distance is kept between the filament and a holding point of a front traction roller to form a triangular area, and the filament and the short fiber roving are twisted together to form the siro-field core-spun composite yarn.
2. The production process of the all-wool natural-elastic bending-resistant covering yarn according to claim 1, wherein the re-combing process in the step 1) is a felt removing, sliver mixing, first needle, second needle, combing, third needle and final roving process in sequence; the draft multiple of the first needle, the second needle and the third needle is controlled to be 5-9 times, and the draft multiple of the combing procedure is controlled to be 4-6 times.
3. The process for producing the all-wool natural-elastic bending-resistant core-spun yarn according to claim 1, wherein the spinning step 2) is to spin the all-wool medium-high twist spun yarn from the wool roving by a German Prussian Fiomax type compact spinning frame; the fixed quantity of the roving slivers is 6-7.5g/m, the multiple of a rear drawing area of the compact spinning frame is controlled to be 1.01-1.3, the twisting direction Z of the spun yarn is the twisting twist coefficient is 80-90.
4. The production process of the all-wool natural-elastic bending-resistant covering yarn according to claim 1, wherein the yarn steaming wet-heat setting procedure in the step 3) is to perform medium and strong twisting on the all-wool single yarn for twist setting by a yarn vacuum wetting yarn steaming machine; the specific process is 1) vacuumizing; 2) treating the yarn with saturated high-temperature steam for a period of time, and twisting; 3) slowly opening the air pressure valve, and taking out the yarns when the internal air pressure and the external air pressure are balanced; the vacuum degree of the vacuum pumping is 90-95%, the saturated steam temperature of the yarn steaming and twist is 100-120 ℃, and the yarn steaming time is 40-60 min.
5. The process for producing the all-wool natural-elastic buckling-resistant covering yarn according to claim 1, wherein the siro-spun twisting twist factor in the step 4) is 70-85, the twisting direction is Z, and the draft ratio is 1.01-1.1.
6. The production process of the all-wool natural-elastic bending-resistant core-spun yarn according to claim 1, wherein in the step 5), the core layer untwisting process is carried out, and the all-wool natural-elastic yarn is placed in warm water at 70-80 ℃ for untwisting treatment for 10-15 min.
7. The production process of the all-wool natural-elastic buckling-resistant covering yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that in the step 6), the steaming and puffing treatment process is carried out, the all-wool natural-elastic yarn is placed in a high-temperature and high-pressure dye vat for steaming and puffing treatment, 5-10% (owf) hydrogen peroxide is added, and 2-2.5% formic acid is added to adjust the pH value of the treatment solution to 4-5.5.
8. The production process of the all-wool natural-elastic buckling-resistant core-spun yarn according to claim 7, characterized in that the steaming puffing treatment process of step 6), the steaming puffing treatment temperature is 95-100 ℃, the steaming pressure is 4-5kg/m, and the puffing treatment time is 15-20 min.
9. The production process of the all-wool natural-elastic bending-resistant core-spun yarn according to claim 1, wherein in the step 7), the yarn is dried for standby, and the processed yarn is placed in a hot air dryer for drying; the drying temperature is 100-.
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Cited By (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN113089157A (en) * | 2021-03-01 | 2021-07-09 | 雅戈尔服装制造有限公司 | Processing method of comfortable anti-wrinkle fabric |
CN113512790A (en) * | 2021-05-20 | 2021-10-19 | 绍兴市柯桥区东纺纺织产业创新研究院 | Production process of yarn with self-forming bulk effect |
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CN105525409A (en) * | 2016-01-18 | 2016-04-27 | 天津工业大学 | Manufacturing method of pure-cotton strong twisted yarn |
CN105970388A (en) * | 2016-07-18 | 2016-09-28 | 中原工学院 | Worsted color wool double-elastic binding yarns and preparation method thereof |
CN106917174A (en) * | 2017-03-31 | 2017-07-04 | 东华大学 | A kind of Seluofle spins pure cotton stretch yarn and its preparation and application |
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2018
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JPH0214033A (en) * | 1989-03-16 | 1990-01-18 | Toray Ind Inc | Production of conjugate yarn having stretchability |
CN101792948A (en) * | 2010-03-12 | 2010-08-04 | 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 | Method for manufacturing stretch wool yarns |
CN102011229A (en) * | 2010-12-07 | 2011-04-13 | 江南大学 | Cable-spun covering soft bulked yarn |
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Cited By (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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CN113089157A (en) * | 2021-03-01 | 2021-07-09 | 雅戈尔服装制造有限公司 | Processing method of comfortable anti-wrinkle fabric |
CN113512790A (en) * | 2021-05-20 | 2021-10-19 | 绍兴市柯桥区东纺纺织产业创新研究院 | Production process of yarn with self-forming bulk effect |
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