CN111096922B - Moisturizing and antioxidant essence and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a moisturizing and antioxidant essence and a preparation method thereof, wherein the essence comprises the following components in percentage by mass: dioctyl carbonate, isopropyl myristate, sucrose stearate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, polydimethylsiloxane, a moisturizing and antioxidant composition, glycerol, water-soluble jojoba oil, carbomer 940 and deionized water; wherein the moisturizing antioxidant composition comprises: 10-50 wt% of triglyceride, 10-50 wt% of vitamin E acetate and 10-50 wt% of fucoidan. The essence provided by the invention can effectively repair a horny layer waterproof barrier, reduce the skin transdermal water loss rate, improve the skin water locking capacity, simultaneously play roles in quickly removing yellow and dark, and brightening the skin color, can obviously feel that the skin becomes bright after being smeared for 8 hours, and is particularly suitable for being used after staying up night.

Description

Moisturizing and antioxidant essence and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to moisturizing and antioxidant essence and a preparation method thereof.

Background

The skin is a layered structure composed of an epidermal layer, a dermal layer and a basement membrane from outside to inside, wherein the dermis and the epidermis are divided and connected by the basement membrane, the epidermis is positioned at the outermost layer of the skin and is divided into 4 layers from inside to outside: basal layer, spinous layer, granular layer and stratum corneum. The stratum corneum consists of cells that have been cornified, called "bio-bricks" in a shape similar to a flat shape, and barrier lipids located between the cells, called "bio-cement", surrounding these "bio-bricks" and forming together a special "brick wall structure"^[1]. The moisture retention of the skin is mainly determined by the water content of the epidermis, particularly the water content of the stratum corneum, which plays a decisive role in the appearance of the skin, and when the water content of the stratum corneum is sufficient, the skin appears soft, smooth, fine and elastic. Under normal conditions, the water content of the stratum corneum is 10-20%, when the water content of the stratum corneum is lower than a normal value for a long time, a moisturizing system of the skin can be damaged, and the problems of dehydration and dryness, impaired barrier function, skin aging, increased skin sensitivity and the like can occur due to water shortage of the skin.

Vitamin E (VE) can gather in the horny layer of the skin, and has the functions of helping the horny layer of the skin to repair a waterproof barrier and preventing the water in the skin and the horny layer from evaporating and dissipating. However, vitamin E is unstable and, for better stability, it is common to use an inactive esterified form of vitamin E, such as vitamin E acetate (VE-A). Vitamin E acetate can be hydrolyzed to active, free vitamin E upon penetration into the skin, thereby acting. However, most studies have shown that vitamin E acetate is relatively difficult to convert to vitamin E to function in the human stratum corneum. Therefore, the combination containing vitamin E acetate is difficult to rely on vitamin E alone to play more effective repairing barrier and preventing water loss in stratum corneum.

Secondly, even if vitamin E acetate can be hydrolyzed into more vitamin E, the vitamin E is difficult to be absorbed into the dermis in a short time, and researches show that the vitamin E can be absorbed into the dermis within 6-24 hours after being wiped^[2]. Therefore, although researches show that vitamin E has the functions of protecting cell membranes and resisting oxidation after being absorbed by the dermis, due to the characteristics, the aims of quickly removing yellow and whitening are generally achieved by adopting a compound of multiple vitamins at present, and the functions of quickly removing yellow, removing dark and brightening the skin cannot be ideally achieved by singly depending on the vitamin E.

In summary, the problems faced in applying vitamin E acetate to the art are: how to hydrolyze more of the esterified form to vitamin E in the stratum corneum when used in an inactive form; secondly, how to promote the absorption of vitamin E in the dermis, thereby quickly and effectively playing the roles of oxidation resistance and whitening of VE. At present, no solution to the above-mentioned problems has emerged.

Prior art document 1: laojindong, application prospect in moisturizing cosmetics [ J ] medical information (in late ten years) 2011,24(6): 266;

prior document 2: li, Dong Yingmao, Zheng Li Bo, and cosmetic formula design and preparation process (1 st edition) [ M ], Beijing: chemical industry Press, 2018: 170.

Disclosure of Invention

Based on the above, the invention aims to provide the moisturizing and antioxidant essence, so that the vitamin E acetate can be hydrolyzed into vitamin E in the horny layer as much as possible, the aims of effectively repairing the waterproof barrier of the horny layer, preventing water loss and improving skin water locking are fulfilled, and the effect of promoting the absorption of the vitamin E by the dermis is achieved.

In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme: the moisturizing and antioxidant essence is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by mass: 1-6% of dioctyl carbonate, 1-3% of isopropyl myristate, 0.1-0.5% of sucrose stearate, 0.1-1% of PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, 1-4.0% of polydimethylsiloxane, 1-20% of a moisturizing and antioxidant composition, 5-12% of glycerol, 1-5% of water-soluble jojoba oil, 9400.1-0.2% of carbomer and 50-60% of deionized water; wherein the moisturizing antioxidant composition comprises: 10-50 wt% of triglyceride, 10-50 wt% of vitamin E acetate and 10-50 wt% of fucoidan.

Further, the essence comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 3-6% of dioctyl carbonate, 2-3% of isopropyl myristate, 0.3-0.5% of sucrose stearate, 0.5-1% of PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, 2-4.0% of polydimethylsiloxane, 5-20% of a moisturizing and antioxidant composition, 8-12% of glycerol, 2-5% of water-soluble jojoba oil, 9400.1-0.2% of carbomer and 50-60% of deionized water; wherein the moisturizing antioxidant composition comprises: 20-45 wt% of triglyceride, 20-45 wt% of vitamin E acetate and 20-45 wt% of fucoidan.

Further, in the moisturizing and antioxidant composition, fucoidan is present in an amount of 30 wt%.

Further, the triglyceride is a medium chain triglyceride.

Further, the triglyceride is tricaprylin.

Further, the weight ratio of the tricaprylin to the vitamin E acetate is 1: 1.

Further, the molecular weight of the fucoidan is Mw2200 kDa-5100 kDa.

Further, the molecular weight of the fucoidan is Mw2200 kDa.

The invention also provides a method for preparing the essence, which comprises the following steps:

s1, adding dioctyl carbonate, isopropyl myristate, sucrose stearate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, polydimethylsiloxane and the moisturizing and antioxidant composition into an oil phase pot, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃, and preserving heat for later use;

s2, adding deionized water into a water phase pot, slowly adding carbomer 940 while stirring, adding glycerol and water-soluble jojoba oil after the addition, heating to 80-85 ℃, and keeping the temperature for 10-30 min for later use;

s3, filtering the material obtained in the step S2 through a 200-mesh screen, pumping the filtered material into an emulsifying pot, starting stirring, filtering the material obtained in the step S1 through the 200-mesh screen, adding the filtered material into the material obtained in the step S2, homogenizing and emulsifying for 8-10 min, slowly cooling to 35-40 ℃, discharging after detection is qualified, and filling.

In the moisturizing and antioxidant composition, triglyceride exists as carrier oil, the inventor considers the influence of three triglycerides on the hydrolysis of vitamin E acetate, and counts the skin transdermal water loss rate under the condition that the three triglycerides are used as the carrier oil, and the result is as follows: short Chain Triglycerides (SCT) > Long Chain Triglycerides (LCT) > and Medium Chain Triglycerides (MCT), indicating that short chain triglycerides, as carrier oils, are more favorable for the hydrolysis of vitamin E acetate to vitamin E, and that the skin exhibits less transdermal water loss due to more vitamin E produced by efficient hydrolysis. This demonstrates that the carrier oil plays a role in the biological process of hydrolysis of vitamin E acetate to VE, and that this role is related to the type of carrier oil.

After adding the fucoidan, unexpected phenomena are generated under the conditions, and when 20-40 wt% of the fucoidan is added, the skin transdermal water loss rate is compared, and the conclusion is that: MCT > SCT > LCT. That is, in the presence of fucoidan, a synergistic triglyceride-promoting effect on the hydrolysis of vitamin E acetate is produced, but this promoting effect is not suitable for all carrier oil types, since no significant change is shown in the long-chain and short-chain triglyceride systems.

Further research shows that when the fucoidin with a specific molecular weight (Mw 2200 kDa-5100 kDa) is added, the composition also shows the effects of fast removing yellow and dark and brightening skin color, and the test result shows that the L value of the facial skin is obviously improved and the b value is obviously reduced after a subject is smeared with a product containing the fucoidin with the specific molecular weight for 8 hours, which shows that the composition has excellent effects of removing yellow and dark and brightening skin color.

The reason for this effect by adding fucoidan is presumed that, when there is high molecular weight fucoidan in the system, due to the compactness of the macromolecular structure of the fucoidan, the volume available for vitamin E acetate in the same limited space is reduced, resulting in an increase of the effective concentration in the space, which constitutes a size exclusion effect, and this size exclusion effect exerts thermodynamic or kinetic effects on vitamin E acetate, which is expressed as promoting the hydrolysis of vitamin E acetate, thereby enabling vitamin E to exert more effective barrier repair and moisture loss prevention capabilities in the stratum corneum; meanwhile, when as much vitamin E acetate as possible is hydrolyzed into vitamin E in the horny layer, the effective concentration of the vitamin E in the same space is increased, so that the vitamin E is more easily absorbed by the dermis, and the fucoidan plays a role in bidirectional promotion in the system.

In general, the invention adds short-chain triglyceride and fucoidin to hydrolyze vitamin E acetate into vitamin E as far as possible in the cuticle, thereby realizing the purposes of effectively repairing the waterproof barrier of the cuticle, preventing water loss and improving the water locking of the skin, simultaneously promoting the absorption of the vitamin E by the dermis, and achieving the effects of quickly removing yellow and dark and brightening the skin color.

Therefore, the invention has the following beneficial effects:

(1) in the moisturizing and antioxidant composition, the fucoidin hydration capacity is outstanding, and the composition can absorb moisture even in a low-humidity environment and has good water retention capacity; in the presence of fucoidin, vitamin E acetate can be hydrolyzed into vitamin E in the horny layer as much as possible, so that the effects of effectively helping the horny layer to repair a waterproof barrier, preventing the skin and the horny layer from evaporating and losing and improving the skin water locking capacity are achieved. Tests prove that after the essence is applied, the skin transdermal water loss rate is continuously reduced, the skin transdermal water loss rate reaches the lowest point in 6 hours after the essence is applied, and the skin transdermal water loss rate slightly increases; after the essence disclosed by the invention is applied for 8 hours, the transdermal water loss rate of the skin of a subject is reduced by 51.97-62.94% compared with that before the skin is used.

(2) The fucoidin with specific molecular weight can promote vitamin E to be absorbed into a dermis layer in a short time, has the effects of quickly removing yellow, removing dark and brightening the skin color, can obviously feel the skin to be brightened after being smeared for 8 hours, is particularly suitable for being used after staying up, and is called as 'face saving star' after staying up all night.

Detailed Description

The present invention will be described in further detail below with reference to specific embodiments of examples. It should not be understood that the scope of the above-described subject matter of the present invention is limited to the following examples.

In the examples, the experimental methods used were all conventional methods unless otherwise specified, and the materials, reagents and the like used were commercially available without otherwise specified.

TABLE 1 examples 1-4 compositions formulation compositions

Group of	Triglycerides	VE-A	Fucoidan
				Example 1	MCT 35％	35％	Mw 2200kDa 30％
Example 2	MCT 40％	40％	Mw 5100kDa 20％
				Example 3	MCT 35％	25％	Mw 2100kDa 40％
Example 4	MCT 32.5％	32.5％	Mw 5100kDa 35％

Example 5 moisturizing, antioxidant essence

The preparation method comprises the following steps:

s1, adding the phase A raw material into an oil phase pot, stirring and heating to 85 ℃, and preserving heat for later use;

s2, adding deionized water into the water phase pot, slowly adding carbomer 940 while stirring, adding the other raw materials of the phase B after the addition, heating to 85 ℃, and keeping the temperature for 30min for later use;

and S3, filtering the material of the phase B through a 200-mesh screen, pumping into an emulsifying pot, starting stirring, filtering the material of the phase A through a 200-mesh screen, adding into the phase B, homogenizing and emulsifying for 8min after pumping, slowly cooling to 35 ℃, sampling, detecting, discharging after detection is qualified, sampling, detecting, aging for 24h, and filling after detection is qualified.

According to the formula of the embodiment 5, the moisturizing and antioxidant essence liquids of the embodiments 6-8 are respectively prepared by replacing the composition of the embodiment 1 with the compositions of the embodiments 2-4.

Comparative examples 1-7 moisturizing and antioxidant essence formula

The compositions of comparative examples 1 to 7 shown in the following table 3 were added to the basic formula of example 5, and the moisturizing and antioxidant essence of comparative examples 1 to 7 were prepared by the preparation method of reference example 5, respectively.

TABLE 2 comparative examples 1-7 moisturizing, antioxidant essences

Group of	Triglycerides	VE-A	Fucoidan
				Comparative example 1	MCT 50％	50％	-
Comparative example 2	MCT 50％	-	Mw 2200kDa 50％
				Comparative example 3	MCT 35％	35％	40030% of ficoll
Comparative example 4	LCT 35％	35％	Mw 2200kDa 30％
				Comparative example 5	SCT 35％	35％	Mw 2200kDa 30％
Comparative example 6	MCT 35％	35％	Mw 114.5kDa 30％
				Comparative example 7	MCT 35％	35％	Mw 490kDa 30％

In the table, MCT is tricaprylin, LCT is triolein, and SCT is tributyrin.

Test example I determination of transdermal Water loss Rate and skin Water content

Transdermal water loss (TWEL), which represents the evaporation of water from the body through the stratum corneum, is commonly used to evaluate the barrier function of the skin, with lower TWEL values for the more intact the epidermal barrier.

1.1 test materials: the essences prepared in examples 5 to 8 of the present invention and comparative examples 1 to 5.

1.2 sample selection and testing environment: totally selecting 90 people, half men and women, the age of 22-45 years, having no allergic history, systemic diseases and other skin diseases, not using other skin care products within one week, and making women voluntarily participate in the test in the whole course without pregnancy or lactation. And (3) testing environment: the test is carried out in a room with the temperature of 22-25 ℃ and the relative humidity of 35-45%, and each group of testees enter a test room to rest for 30 minutes and then start the test.

1.3 test methods: the 90 volunteers are randomly divided into 9 groups, each group comprises 10 persons, one arm of each test subject is randomly selected from each group to be a test arm, the test arm is equally divided into three sections from a wrist joint line to an elbow joint line, the middle point of an equal dividing line close to the wrist joint line side is taken as a circle center, and a circle area with the radius of 1cm is taken as a test area. Before use, the transdermal water loss rate of a test area is measured, 0.5g of corresponding test material is uniformly smeared on the test area, and corresponding indexes of the test area are measured at different time periods respectively.

1.4 index determination: the transdermal water loss rate was measured by DERMALAB from Tartex technical Aps, Denmark, at 2h, 6h and 8h after application, each measurement was performed by continuous measurement with a reading period of 1 second for 1 minute, and the average of 60 data was determined as the transdermal water loss rate (g/hm)²). Skin moisture content the moisture content of the skin of the samples used in different periods of time was measured using Corneometer CM 825 from Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH, and repeated 5 times, respectively, and the average value was calculated, and the skin moisture content increase rate was calculated.

In the formula, MMV₀MMV on skin before application; MMV_tMMV of the skin t time after application.

1.5 data processing and analysis: the sample data were calculated as an average and statistically analyzed, and the results are shown in Table 3 below.

TABLE 3 transdermal Water loss Rate (g/hm) for different time periods after use of different samples²)

Group of	Before use	2h	6h	8h	Rate of change
						Example 5	14.3	11.4	4.6	5.3	-62.94％
Example 6	12.2	10.8	5.1	5.4	-55.74％
						Example 7	12.6	10.6	4.5	4.7	-62.70％
Example 8	15.2	12.2	8.2	7.3	-51.97％
						Comparative example 1	11.2	11.0	10.5	9.2	-17.86％
Comparative example 2	13.8	13.3	12.8	11.7	-15.22％
						Comparative example 3	14.5	14.2	12.6	10.1	-30.34％
Comparative example 4	12.1	11.2	9.3	7.2	-40.50％
						Comparative example 5	13.7	12.5	8.4	7.4	-45.99％

From the above table 3, it can be seen that the skin transdermal water loss rate of the skin of the subject shows a trend of continuously decreasing after the essence of the present invention is applied, and basically reaches the lowest point 6h after the essence is applied, and then slightly increases. After the essence disclosed by the invention is applied for 8 hours, the transdermal water loss rate of the skin of a subject is obviously improved compared with that before use, and the transdermal water loss rate of the skin is reduced by 51.97-62.94% compared with that before use, so that the essence disclosed by the invention has the characteristics of effectively reducing the transdermal water loss rate of the skin, repairing a waterproof barrier and improving the water locking capacity of the skin. After other groups of essence are smeared, the transdermal water loss rate of the skin of a subject basically reaches the lowest point after 8 hours of smearing, which shows that the essence disclosed by the invention can quickly release vitamin E, so that the effect is quickly achieved.

Wherein, after the essence of the comparative example 1 (without fucoidin) is used for 8 hours, the transdermal water loss rate is reduced by 17.85%, and the water locking capacity of the essence of the example 5 is obviously reduced, which shows that the fucoidin has a positive effect on promoting the hydrolysis of vitamin E acetate; it can be seen from comparative examples 4-5 that medium chain triglycerides are significantly more suitable for the present system than short and long chain triglycerides.

TABLE 4 measurement of skin moisture content increase rate

Group of	2h	4h	6h	8h
					Example 5	32.12％	46.28％	48.61％	45.08％
Example 6	25.36％	33.47％	39.42％	36.56％
					Example 7	30.47％	40.25％	45.73％	42.19％
Example 8	21.68％	28.54％	36.15％	34.37％

From the table, the moisture content of the skin of a subject is obviously increased after the subject is smeared with the essence, the peak value is reached in 6h after the skin is smeared, and then the peak value is slightly reduced, so that the essence has good moisturizing capability.

Test example two, practical application test

Practical application tests were performed by using the essences prepared in examples 5 and 7 of the present invention and comparative examples 6 to 7. Selecting 40 effective healthy subjects, wherein the facial features are yellow or dull and dull skin, and the age distribution is 25-45 years old. The whole face of the subject is the tested part, the essence is used according to the normal dosage, and the L value and the b value of the skin of the face of the subject are tested by a Menten analysis tester CN2600D at 4h, 6h and 8h after the use.

The L value represents the brightness, the range is 0-100, the darkest is 0, the brightest is 100, and the higher the L value is, the higher the brightness of the skin is; b is the color change from blue to yellow, with lower b indicating lower yellowness of the skin. Specifically, as shown in table 5 below.

Table 5 skin parameter test results

Note: compared with the time of 0h, the method has the advantages that,^*P＜0.05，^**P＜0.05。

as can be seen from table 5, after 8h of application of the serum of the present invention, the skin showed a significant change in both the L and b values compared to before use, whereas the serum containing fucoidan of Mw 114.5kDa or Mw 490kDa showed a small increase in the L value and a small decrease in the b value after 8h of use, but showed no significant difference compared to before use.

The foregoing embodiments are merely illustrative of the principles and utilities of the present invention and are not intended to limit the invention. Any person skilled in the art can modify or change the above-mentioned embodiments without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention. Accordingly, it is intended that all equivalent modifications or changes which can be made by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and technical spirit of the present invention be covered by the claims of the present invention.

Claims (7)

1. The moisturizing and antioxidant essence is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by mass: 1-6% of dioctyl carbonate, 1-3% of isopropyl myristate, 0.1-0.5% of sucrose stearate, 0.1-1% of PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, 1-4% of polydimethylsiloxane, 1-20% of a moisturizing and antioxidant composition, 5-12% of glycerol, 1-5% of water-soluble jojoba oil, 9400.1-0.2% of carbomer and 50-60% of deionized water; wherein the moisturizing antioxidant composition comprises: 10-50 wt% of medium-chain triglyceride, 10-50 wt% of vitamin E acetate and 10-50 wt% of fucoidan; the molecular weight of the fucoidin is Mw2200 kDa-5100 kDa.

2. The essence according to claim 1, wherein the essence consists of the following components in percentage by mass: 3-6% of dioctyl carbonate, 2-3% of isopropyl myristate, 0.3-0.5% of sucrose stearate, 0.5-1% of PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, 2-4% of polydimethylsiloxane, 5-20% of a moisturizing and antioxidant composition, 8-12% of glycerol, 2-5% of water-soluble jojoba oil, 9400.1-0.2% of carbomer and 50-60% of deionized water; wherein the moisturizing antioxidant composition comprises: 20-45 wt% of medium chain triglyceride, 20-45 wt% of vitamin E acetate and 20-45 wt% of fucoidan.

3. The serum of claim 2, wherein the fucoidan is present in the moisturizing and antioxidant composition at 30% by weight.

4. The essence of claim 1 or 2, wherein the triglyceride is tricaprylin.

5. The essence of claim 4, wherein the weight ratio of the glyceryl tricaprylate to the vitamin E acetate is 1: 1.

6. The essence of claim 1, wherein the fucoidan has a molecular weight of Mw2200 kDa.

7. A method for preparing the essence of any one of claims 1 to 6, comprising the following steps:

s1, adding dioctyl carbonate, isopropyl myristate, sucrose stearate, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, polydimethylsiloxane and the moisturizing and antioxidant composition into an oil phase pot, stirring and heating to 80-85 ℃, and preserving heat for later use;

s2, adding deionized water into a water phase pot, slowly adding carbomer 940 while stirring, adding glycerol and water-soluble jojoba oil after the addition, heating to 80-85 ℃, and keeping the temperature for 10-30 min for later use;

s3, filtering the material obtained in the step S2 through a 200-mesh screen, pumping the filtered material into an emulsifying pot, starting stirring, filtering the material obtained in the step S1 through the 200-mesh screen, adding the filtered material into the material obtained in the step S2, homogenizing and emulsifying for 8-10 min, slowly cooling to 35-40 ℃, discharging after detection is qualified, and filling.