CN111041658A - Preparation method of chiffon fabric - Google Patents
Preparation method of chiffon fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN111041658A CN111041658A CN201911386351.XA CN201911386351A CN111041658A CN 111041658 A CN111041658 A CN 111041658A CN 201911386351 A CN201911386351 A CN 201911386351A CN 111041658 A CN111041658 A CN 111041658A
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- full
- crepe
- chiffon fabric
- dull drawn
- drawn yarn
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/567—Shapes or effects upon shrinkage
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
- D01D5/22—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a crimped or curled structure; with a special structure to simulate wool
- D01D5/23—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a crimped or curled structure; with a special structure to simulate wool by asymmetrical cooling of filaments, threads, or the like, leaving the spinnerettes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
- D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
- D01D5/253—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a non-circular cross section; Spinnerette packs therefor
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
- D01F8/00—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
- D01F8/04—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
- D01F8/14—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyester as constituent
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/44—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific cross-section or surface shape
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C7/00—Heating or cooling textile fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
Abstract
The invention relates to a preparation method of chiffon fabric, which comprises the following steps of firstly preparing full-dull drawn yarns: extruding a PET melt from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing full-dull drawn yarns according to a POY-DT process; 2.5-3.0 wt% of titanium dioxide is dispersed in the PET melt; then taking full-dull drawn yarns as crepe warp raw materials and crepe weft raw materials, interweaving the crepe warp raw materials and the crepe weft raw materials into plain weave, and then performing relaxation heat treatment to obtain the chiffon fabric; the twist of the crepe warp or the crepe weft is 300-500 twists/m, and the twist direction of the crepe warp is opposite to that of the crepe weft; after relaxation heat treatment, the full-dull drawn yarn has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage rate of the full-dull drawn yarn is 24-27%, the crimp stability of the full-dull drawn yarn is 78-82%, the shrinkage elongation of the full-dull drawn yarn is 63-69%, and the crimp elastic recovery rate of the full-dull drawn yarn is 75-80%; the prepared chiffon fabric has a wrinkling effect, the wrinkling effect is stable, the product quality is improved, the wrinkling and cotton-like effects can be achieved, and the processing technology is simple.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textile fabrics, and relates to a preparation method of a chiffon fabric.
Background
The chiffon fabric is a very light and thin chemical fiber fabric, is suitable for women to wear in summer and has little hair dryness feeling when touching; the chiffon fabric is generally divided into real silk chiffon and imitated silk chiffon, the chiffon fabric made of different raw materials is greatly different, the most common chiffon fabric is made of polyester filaments, the chiffon made of the polyester filaments is stiff and smooth and wear-resistant, and can be blended with other fiber raw materials to endow the chiffon with more performances, if spandex blending is adopted, the chiffon fabric has certain elasticity and wrinkling effect, cotton fiber blending can also be adopted, the chiffon fabric has certain moisture absorption and sweat release performance, and the moisture absorption and sweat release performance of the polyester filaments are compensated.
However, in the process of preparing chiffon, untwisting is generally required after refining, so as to shrink and wrinkle to form georgette yarns which are full of uniform wrinkles and loose in structure; in order to achieve the wrinkling effect, the fiber raw material is subjected to heavy twisting, the twist is more than 2000 twists/m, and the heavy twisting can damage the quality of the yarn to a certain degree. In order to add the cotton fibers, the cotton fibers need to be blended and processed into yarns and then woven, and the process is complicated and increases the processing cost.
Therefore, the development of the chiffon fabric which is made of the polyester filaments and has a simple processing technology and high quality has very important significance.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention provides a preparation method of a chiffon fabric, and aims to solve the problems that in the preparation process of the chiffon fabric, the process is complex and the strong twisting process causes fiber damage.
A chiffon fabric preparation method, take the full dull drawn silk as the raw materials of crepe warp and crepe latitude, interweave into plain weave, relax the heat treatment to make chiffon fabric;
the twist of the crepe warp or the crepe weft is 300-500 twists/m, and the twist direction of the crepe warp is opposite to that of the crepe weft;
the invention adopts the full-dull drawn yarn, which can shrink to a certain degree after relaxation heat treatment, thereby obtaining wrinkling effect, and the preparation process of the full-dull drawn yarn is as follows:
extruding a PET melt from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing full-dull drawn yarns according to a POY-DT process;
2.5-3.0 wt% of titanium dioxide is dispersed in the PET melt;
the ratio of the widths of the narrowest leaf and the widest leaf of the trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0: 1.5-2.5, the width of the narrowest leaf is fixed, the ratio of the widths of the two broad leaves is randomly distributed between 1-1.67, the lengths of all the trilobals are the same, the ratio of the length of the widest leaf to the maximum width is 1.5-2.5: 1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees;
all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the narrowest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
namely, a plurality of trilobal spinneret orifices are arranged on a spinneret plate, each trilobal spinneret orifice comprises a leaf I, a leaf II and a leaf III, the leaf I in different trilobal spinneret orifices is the narrowest leaf in the trilobal spinneret orifices, the widths of the leaves I in all the trilobal spinneret orifices are the same, and the leaves III are the widest leaves in the trilobal spinneret orifices; the width ratio (obtained by dividing a larger value by a smaller value) of the leaves II and the leaves III of all the trilobal spinneret orifices is randomly distributed between 1 and 1.67; in the same trilobal spinneret orifice, the width ratio of the leaf I, the leaf II and the leaf III is 1.0: 1.5-2.5; the lengths of the leaves I, II and III of the same trilobal spinneret orifice are the same, and the lengths of the leaves I, II and III of different trilobal spinneret orifices are the same; the ratio of the length to the width of the trilobal spinneret orifice with the largest width of the blade III is 1.5-2.5: 1; in each trilobal spinneret orifice, the included angle between the central lines of the blades I and II is 120 degrees, the included angle between the central lines of the blades II and III is 120 degrees, and the included angle between the central lines of the blades I and III is 120 degrees; the center lines of the blades I of all the trilobal spinneret orifices pass through the circle center, and in the same trilobal spinneret orifice, the distance between the blade I and the circle center is larger relative to the blades II and III.
According to the preparation method of the chiffon fabric, the intrinsic viscosity of PET is 0.65-0.70 dL/g.
According to the preparation method of the chiffon fabric, the parameters of the POY-DT process are as follows: the extrusion temperature is 280-285 ℃, the cooling air temperature is 20-25 ℃, the cooling air speed is 1.8-2.3 m/s, the winding speed is 2500-3000 m/min, the stretching temperature is 85-90 ℃, the stretching multiple is 3.0-3.3, and the shaping temperature is 150-170 ℃.
According to the preparation method of the chiffon fabric, the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 90-120 ℃, and the time is 20-30 min; the full-dull drawn yarn consists of a plurality of PET monofilaments with trilobal cross sections and containing titanium dioxide.
According to the preparation method of the chiffon fabric, before relaxation heat treatment, the breaking strength of the full-dull drawn yarn is more than or equal to 2.8cN/dtex, the breaking elongation is 40.0 +/-5.0%, and the filament number is 1.00-1.50 dtex.
According to the preparation method of the chiffon fabric, after relaxation heat treatment, the full-dull drawn yarn has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage rate is 24-27%, the crimp stability is 78-82%, the shrinkage elongation is 63-69%, and the crimp elastic recovery rate is 75-80%.
According to the preparation method of the chiffon fabric, the gram weight of the chiffon fabric is 133-150 g/m2。
The principle of the invention is as follows:
the full-dull drawn yarn is prepared according to a POY-DT process, PET melt is extruded from trilobal spinneret orifices with unequal widths of three leaves on a spinneret plate, the center line of the narrowest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center, and meanwhile, circular blowing is adopted for cooling; wherein, the cooling air blow is over against the narrowest leaf in the trefoil, and the trefoil cooling condition is seriously asymmetric and unbalanced. Because the trilobal in the adopted spinneret orifices is of an asymmetric structure, the narrowest blade of the trilobal spinneret orifices firstly faces the wind and the surface contacted with cooling wind is the whole surface of the blade, and the other two blades are only contacted with the windward side; therefore, the surface area of the narrowest blade of the trilobal spinneret orifice, which is contacted with the cooling air, is far larger than that of the other two blades in the three blades, so that the cooling speed of the narrowest blade is higher than that of the other two blades, and the cooling speeds of the melts at different positions on the cross section are inconsistent after the fibers are sprayed out, which is mainly reflected by that: during spinning, the cooling air speed is 1.8-2.3 m/s, the part close to the air blowing opening is cooled earlier and faster, and the part far away from the air blowing opening is cooled slower. When one of the three-lobed shapes in the trilobal spinneret orifice is facing the cooling wind, the melt of the lobe cools quickly, while the rest of the three-lobed shape cools slowly, and the first lobe to the wind is narrowest and is cooled more easily. Under the action of the tension of the drafting, other parts in the trilobal shape are easier to draft and thin, and the stress is more concentrated, so that a trilobal stress asymmetric structure can appear on a fiber trefoil cross section, the fiber with asymmetric stress and thickness on the cross section can present three-dimensional curling performance in the heat treatment or stretching process, the curling is good, and the elastic recovery rate of the fiber is high; in addition, in the spinneret orifice on the same spinneret, the width ratio of the leaves II and the leaves III is randomly distributed between 1-1.67, so that the cooling degree of each fiber is different, and the generated three-dimensional curling degree is different.
The full-dull drawn yarn with the three-dimensional curling performance is used for weaving the chiffon fabric, after weaving, relaxation heat treatment is carried out on the fabric (the conventional dyeing and finishing process meets the condition), meanwhile, the fiber is heated, shrunk and curled, and the chiffon fabric can form a certain wrinkling effect on the fabric surface, and the wrinkling does not need untwisting; because the shrinkage wrinkling is not obtained by untwisting, the yarn does not need to be subjected to heavy twisting, the damage to the yarn is reduced, and the quality of the yarn is further ensured; the wrinkle of the invention is caused by the difference of the thermal shrinkage rates of the two materials, and the wrinkle does not influence the thermal shrinkage rate of the materials under normal washing and using conditions, namely the wrinkle style is durable; in addition, because the invention adopts the full-dull drawn yarn, and because a single fiber presents a special-shaped cross section (trilobal) structure, the fiber with the groove can endow the fabric with good moisture absorption and moisture conduction performance (due to the wicking action of a capillary tube generated by the groove), particularly, when the fiber with the groove is self-curled, the same groove turns inwards and outwards, so that a part (usually the side facing the skin) which absorbs moisture firstly can be turned to the outer side (the side facing the air) through the guiding action of the groove, compared with the special-shaped cross section fiber in the prior art (the groove of the single fiber usually faces the same side), the efficiency of moisture conduction and moisture drainage of the full-dull drawn yarn is higher; therefore, better moisture absorption and sweat releasing effects can be obtained without adding cotton fibers, and the cost is greatly reduced; in addition, the adopted raw material is full-dull drawn yarn, and the finally prepared chiffon fabric has the luster of cotton imitation.
Has the advantages that:
(1) the invention relates to a preparation method of chiffon fabric; the chiffon fabric made of the full-dull drawn yarns with the self-curling performance has a wrinkling effect, avoids using a heavy twisting process, is stable in wrinkling effect, and improves product quality;
(2) according to the preparation method of the chiffon fabric, the full-dull drawn yarns are of the trilobal cross-section structure, so that the chiffon fabric has good moisture-conducting performance, and can avoid the use of cotton fibers, so that the chiffon fabric has good moisture absorption and sweat releasing effects;
(3) according to the preparation method of the chiffon fabric, the effects of wrinkling and cotton imitation can be achieved only by adopting the full-dull drawn yarns, the processing technology is simple, and the cost is reduced.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of the shape of a trilobal spinneret orifice of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic view of the distribution of the orifices of the present invention on a spinneret.
Detailed Description
The invention will be further illustrated with reference to specific embodiments. It should be understood that these examples are for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Further, it should be understood that various changes or modifications of the present invention may be made by those skilled in the art after reading the teaching of the present invention, and such equivalents may fall within the scope of the present invention as defined in the appended claims.
The shape of the trilobal spinneret orifice and the distribution schematic diagram of the spinneret orifice on the spinneret plate are shown in figures 1 and 2, the spinneret orifice on the spinneret plate is trilobal, the width ratio of the narrowest leaf to the widest leaf of the trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0: 1.5-2.5, the width of the narrowest leaf is fixed, the width ratio of the two broad leaves is randomly distributed between 1-1.67, the lengths of all the trilobals are the same, the ratio of the length of the widest leaf to the maximum width is 1.5-2.5: 1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the narrowest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center.
Fig. 1 and 2 are merely schematic and are not intended to limit the present invention.
Example 1
A preparation method of chiffon fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing full-dull drawn yarns:
extruding a PET melt (with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.65dL/g) dispersed with 2.8 wt% of titanium dioxide from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing full-dull drawn yarns according to a POY-DT process;
wherein, the width ratio of the narrowest leaf to the widest leaf of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 1.0:2.5, the width of the narrowest leaf is 0.06mm, and the width ratio of the two broad leaves is randomly distributed (a circle of trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed equidistantly are arranged on the spinneret plate, the number of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 24, and the ratio is 1.57, 1.61, 1.26, 1.39, 1.66, 1.4, 1.6, 1.12, 1.18, 1.52, 1.64, 1.51, 1.61, 1.3, 1.4, 1.36, 1.59, 1.37, 1.58, 1.52, 1, 1.42, 1.06 and 1.14 in sequence along the clockwise direction from one spinneret orifice, the lengths of all the trilobals are the same, the ratio of the length of the widest leaf to the maximum width is 1.5:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the narrowest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
the parameters of the POY-DT process are as follows: the extrusion temperature is 280 ℃, the cooling air temperature is 20 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.2m/s, the winding speed is 2500m/min, the stretching temperature is 85 ℃, the stretching multiple is 3.1, and the setting temperature is 150 ℃;
the prepared full-dull drawn yarn consists of a plurality of PET monofilaments with trilobal cross sections and containing titanium dioxide; the breaking strength of the full-dull drawn yarn is 2.87cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 43 percent, and the filament number is 1.00 dtex;
(2) taking full-dull drawn yarns as a crepe warp raw material and a crepe weft raw material, interweaving the crepe warp raw material and the crepe weft raw material into plain weave, and then performing relaxation heat treatment at the temperature of 97 ℃ for 25min to obtain a chiffon fabric; wherein the twist of the crepe warp is 400 twists/m, the twist of the crepe weft is 400 twists/m, and the twist directions of the crepe warp and the crepe weft are opposite;
the full-dull drawn yarn in the prepared chiffon fabric has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage rate of the full-dull drawn yarn is 24%, the crimp stability of the full-dull drawn yarn is 78%, the shrinkage elongation of the full-dull drawn yarn is 69%, and the crimp elastic recovery rate of the full-dull drawn yarn is 75%; the gram weight of the chiffon fabric is 140g/m2。
Example 2
A preparation method of chiffon fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing full-dull drawn yarns:
extruding a PET melt (with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.65dL/g) dispersed with 2.8 wt% of titanium dioxide from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing full-dull drawn yarns according to a POY-DT process;
wherein, the width ratio of the narrowest leaf to the widest leaf of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 1.0:2.5, the width of the narrowest leaf is 0.08mm, and the width ratio of the two broad leaves is randomly distributed (a circle of trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed equidistantly are arranged on the spinneret plate, the number of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 24, and the ratio is 1.57, 1.61, 1.26, 1.39, 1.66, 1.4, 1.6, 1.12, 1.18, 1.52, 1.64, 1.51, 1.61, 1.3, 1.4, 1.36, 1.59, 1.37, 1.58, 1.52, 1, 1.42, 1.06 and 1.14 in sequence along the clockwise direction from one spinneret orifice, the lengths of all the trilobals are the same, the ratio of the length of the widest leaf to the maximum width is 1.9:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the narrowest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
the parameters of the POY-DT process are as follows: the extrusion temperature is 281 ℃, the cooling air temperature is 21 ℃, the cooling air speed is 1.8m/s, the winding speed is 2540m/min, the stretching temperature is 85 ℃, the stretching ratio is 3, and the shaping temperature is 155 ℃;
the prepared full-dull drawn yarn consists of a plurality of PET monofilaments with trilobal cross sections and containing titanium dioxide; the breaking strength of the full-dull drawn yarn is 2.8cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 45%, and the filament number is 1.10 dtex;
(2) taking full-dull drawn yarns as a crepe warp raw material and a crepe weft raw material, interweaving the crepe warp raw material and the crepe weft raw material into plain weave, and then performing relaxation heat treatment at the temperature of 90 ℃ for 30min to obtain a chiffon fabric; wherein the twist of the crepe warp is 370 twists/m, the twist of the crepe weft is 370 twists/m, and the twist directions of the crepe warp and the crepe weft are opposite;
the full-dull drawn yarn in the prepared chiffon fabric has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage rate of the fully-dull drawn yarn is 24%, the crimp stability of the fully-dull drawn yarn is 80%, the shrinkage elongation of the fully-dull drawn yarn is 65%, and the crimp elastic recovery rate of the fully-dull drawn yarn is 76%; the gram weight of the chiffon fabric is 133g/m2。
Example 3
A preparation method of chiffon fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing full-dull drawn yarns:
extruding a PET melt (with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.7dL/g) dispersed with 3 wt% of titanium dioxide from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing full-dull drawn yarns according to a POY-DT process;
wherein, the width ratio of the narrowest leaf to the widest leaf of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 1.0:1.5, the width of the narrowest leaf is 0.06mm, and the width ratio of the two broad leaves is randomly distributed (a circle of trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed equidistantly are arranged on the spinneret plate, the number of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 24, and the ratio is 1.57, 1.61, 1.26, 1.39, 1.66, 1.4, 1.6, 1.12, 1.18, 1.52, 1.64, 1.51, 1.61, 1.3, 1.4, 1.36, 1.59, 1.37, 1.58, 1.52, 1, 1.42, 1.06 and 1.14 in sequence along the clockwise direction from one spinneret orifice, the lengths of all the trilobals are the same, the ratio of the length of the widest leaf to the maximum width is 1.9:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the narrowest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
the parameters of the POY-DT process are as follows: the extrusion temperature is 285 ℃, the cooling air temperature is 25 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.0m/s, the winding speed is 3000m/min, the stretching temperature is 90 ℃, the stretching multiple is 3, and the setting temperature is 170 ℃;
the prepared full-dull drawn yarn consists of a plurality of PET monofilaments with trilobal cross sections and containing titanium dioxide; the breaking strength of the full-dull drawn yarn is 2.83cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 44%, and the filament number is 1.20 dtex;
(2) taking full-dull drawn yarns as a crepe warp raw material and a crepe weft raw material, interweaving the crepe warp raw material and the crepe weft raw material into plain weave, and then performing relaxation heat treatment at the temperature of 96 ℃ for 29min to obtain the chiffon fabric; wherein, the twist of the crepe warp is 400 twists/m, the twist of the crepe weft is 430 twists/m, and the twist directions of the crepe warp and the crepe weft are opposite;
the full-dull drawn yarn in the prepared chiffon fabric has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage rate of the fully-dull drawn yarn is 24%, the crimp stability of the fully-dull drawn yarn is 79%, the contraction elongation of the fully-dull drawn yarn is 68%, and the crimp elastic recovery rate of the fully-dull drawn yarn is 77%; the gram weight of the chiffon fabric is 138g/m2。
Example 4
A preparation method of chiffon fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing full-dull drawn yarns:
extruding a PET melt (with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.67dL/g) dispersed with 2.6 wt% of titanium dioxide from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing full-dull drawn yarns according to a POY-DT process;
wherein, the width ratio of the narrowest leaf to the widest leaf of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 1.0:2.4, the width of the narrowest leaf is 0.06mm, and the width ratio of the two widest leaves is randomly distributed (a circle of trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed equidistantly are arranged on the spinneret plate, the number of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 48, and starting from one spinneret orifice, the ratio is sequentially 1.57, 1.61, 1.26, 1.39, 1.66, 1.4, 1.6, 1.12, 1.18, 1.52, 1.64, 1.51, 1.36, 1.43, 1.11, 1.2, 1.21, 1.23, 1.18, 1.61, 1.22, 1.52, 1.36, 1.57, 1.61, 1.63, 1.62, 1.42, 1.67, 1.53, 1.33, 1.38, 1.55, 1.66, 1.56, 1.04, 1.42, 1.58, 1.06, 1.58 and 1.58 degrees of the width of the adjacent three leaves is the same as the width of the central line, and the width ratio of the widest leaves is 1.06; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the narrowest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
the parameters of the POY-DT process are as follows: the extrusion temperature is 284 ℃, the cooling air temperature is 24 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.3m/s, the winding speed is 2760m/min, the stretching temperature is 90 ℃, the stretching multiple is 3.1, and the shaping temperature is 159 ℃;
the prepared full-dull drawn yarn consists of a plurality of PET monofilaments with trilobal cross sections and containing titanium dioxide; the breaking strength of the full-dull drawn yarn is 2.88cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 40%, and the filament number is 1.44 dtex;
(2) taking full-dull drawn yarns as a crepe warp raw material and a crepe weft raw material, interweaving the crepe warp raw material and the crepe weft raw material into plain weave, and then performing relaxation heat treatment at 106 ℃ for 23min to obtain a chiffon fabric; wherein the twist of the crepe warp is 380 twists/m, the twist of the crepe weft is 380 twists/m, and the twist directions of the crepe warp and the crepe weft are opposite;
the full-dull drawn yarn in the prepared chiffon fabric has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage rate of the fully-dull drawn yarn is 24%, the crimp stability of the fully-dull drawn yarn is 80%, the shrinkage elongation of the fully-dull drawn yarn is 67%, and the crimp elastic recovery rate of the fully-dull drawn yarn is 77%; the gram weight of the chiffon fabric is 140g/m2。
Example 5
A preparation method of chiffon fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing full-dull drawn yarns:
extruding a PET melt (with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.65dL/g) dispersed with 2.7 wt% of titanium dioxide from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing full-dull drawn yarns according to a POY-DT process;
wherein, the width ratio of the narrowest leaf to the widest leaf of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 1.0:2.0, the width of the narrowest leaf is 0.07mm, and the width ratio of the two broad leaves is randomly distributed (a circle of trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed equidistantly are arranged on the spinneret plate, the number of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 30, and the ratio is 1.57, 1.61, 1.26, 1.39, 1.66, 1.4, 1.6, 1.12, 1.18, 1.52, 1.64, 1.51, 1.59, 1.08, 1.05, 1.33, 1.42, 1.66, 1.61, 1.3, 1.4, 1.36, 1.59, 1.37, 1.58, 1.52, 1, 1.42, 1.06 and 1.14 in sequence from one spinneret orifice as the clockwise direction, the lengths of all the trilobals are the same, the ratio of the length of the widest leaf to the maximum width of the two broad leaves is 2: 2, and the included angle of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the narrowest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
the parameters of the POY-DT process are as follows: the extrusion temperature is 282 ℃, the cooling air temperature is 22 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.1m/s, the winding speed is 2580m/min, the stretching temperature is 86 ℃, the stretching ratio is 3.1, and the shaping temperature is 156 ℃;
the prepared full-dull drawn yarn consists of a plurality of PET monofilaments with trilobal cross sections and containing titanium dioxide; the breaking strength of the full-dull drawn yarn is 2.86cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 43 percent, and the filament number is 1.30 dtex;
(2) taking full-dull drawn yarns as a crepe warp raw material and a crepe weft raw material, interweaving the crepe warp raw material and the crepe weft raw material into plain weave, and then performing relaxation heat treatment at the temperature of 100 ℃ for 23min to obtain a chiffon fabric; wherein, the twist of the crepe warp is 430 twists/m, the twist of the crepe weft is 430 twists/m, and the twist directions of the crepe warp and the crepe weft are opposite;
the full-dull drawn yarn in the prepared chiffon fabric has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage rate of the fully-dull drawn yarn is 24%, the crimp stability of the fully-dull drawn yarn is 81%, the shrinkage elongation of the fully-dull drawn yarn is 63%, and the crimp elastic recovery rate of the fully-dull drawn yarn is 77%; the gram weight of the chiffon fabric is 144g/m2。
Example 6
A preparation method of chiffon fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing full-dull drawn yarns:
extruding a PET melt (with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.67dL/g) dispersed with 3 wt% of titanium dioxide from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing full-dull drawn yarns according to a POY-DT process;
wherein, the width ratio of the narrowest leaf to the widest leaf of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 1.0:2.4, the width of the narrowest leaf is 0.07mm, and the width ratio of the two broad leaves is randomly distributed (a circle of trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed equidistantly are arranged on the spinneret plate, the number of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 24, and the ratio is 1.57, 1.61, 1.26, 1.39, 1.66, 1.4, 1.6, 1.12, 1.18, 1.52, 1.64, 1.51, 1.61, 1.3, 1.4, 1.36, 1.59, 1.37, 1.58, 1.52, 1, 1.42, 1.06 and 1.14 in sequence along the clockwise direction from one spinneret orifice, the lengths of all the trilobals are the same, the ratio of the length of the widest leaf to the maximum width is 2:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the narrowest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
the parameters of the POY-DT process are as follows: the extrusion temperature is 285 ℃, the cooling air temperature is 24 ℃, the cooling air speed is 1.8m/s, the winding speed is 2770m/min, the stretching temperature is 90 ℃, the stretching multiple is 3.3, and the shaping temperature is 162 ℃;
the prepared full-dull drawn yarn consists of a plurality of PET monofilaments with trilobal cross sections and containing titanium dioxide; the breaking strength of the full-dull drawn yarn is 2.96cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 35%, and the filament number is 1.50 dtex;
(2) taking full-dull drawn yarns as a crepe warp raw material and a crepe weft raw material, interweaving the crepe warp raw material and the crepe weft raw material into plain weave, and then performing relaxation heat treatment at the temperature of 120 ℃ for 20min to obtain a chiffon fabric; wherein, the twist of the crepe warp is 450 twists/m, the twist of the crepe weft is 430 twists/m, and the twist directions of the crepe warp and the crepe weft are opposite;
the full-dull drawn yarn in the prepared chiffon fabric has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage rate of the fully-dull drawn yarn is 25%, the crimp stability of the fully-dull drawn yarn is 82%, the shrinkage elongation of the fully-dull drawn yarn is 69%, and the crimp elastic recovery rate of the fully-dull drawn yarn is 77%; the gram weight of the chiffon fabric is 148g/m2。
Example 7
A preparation method of chiffon fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing full-dull drawn yarns:
extruding a PET melt (with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.69dL/g) dispersed with 2.9 wt% of titanium dioxide from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing full-dull drawn yarns according to a POY-DT process;
wherein, the width ratio of the narrowest leaf to the widest leaf of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 1.0:2.2, the width of the narrowest leaf is 0.06mm, and the width ratio of the two widest leaves is randomly distributed (a circle of trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed equidistantly are arranged on the spinneret plate, the number of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 36, and the ratio is 1.57, 1.61, 1.26, 1.39, 1.66, 1.4, 1.6, 1.12, 1.18, 1.52, 1.64, 1.51, 1.31, 1.33, 1.29, 1.45, 1.53, 1.06, 1.61, 1.48, 1.31, 1.17, 1.36, 1.55, 1.61, 1.3, 1.4, 1.36, 1.59, 1.37, 1.58, 1.52, 1.42, 1.06, 1.120, the maximum leaf width ratio is 2 degrees, and the width ratio of the two widest leaves is the same as the width of the central line of the two adjacent leaves, and the width ratio of the widest leaves is 1.4; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the narrowest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
the parameters of the POY-DT process are as follows: the extrusion temperature is 285 ℃, the cooling air temperature is 24 ℃, the cooling air speed is 1.9m/s, the winding speed is 2800m/min, the stretching temperature is 90 ℃, the stretching multiple is 3.2, and the setting temperature is 163 ℃;
the prepared full-dull drawn yarn consists of a plurality of PET monofilaments with trilobal cross sections and containing titanium dioxide; the breaking strength of the full-dull drawn yarn is 2.95cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 38%, and the filament number is 1.28 dtex;
(2) taking full-dull drawn yarns as a crepe warp raw material and a crepe weft raw material, interweaving the crepe warp raw material and the crepe weft raw material into plain weave, and then performing relaxation heat treatment at the temperature of 111 ℃ for 22min to obtain a chiffon fabric; wherein the twist of the crepe warp is 500 twists/m, the twist of the crepe weft is 500 twists/m, and the twist directions of the crepe warp and the crepe weft are opposite;
the full-dull drawn yarn in the prepared chiffon fabric has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage rate of the full-dull drawn yarn is 26%, the crimp stability of the full-dull drawn yarn is 80%, the shrinkage elongation of the full-dull drawn yarn is 67%, and the crimp elastic recovery rate of the full-dull drawn yarn is 78%; the gram weight of the chiffon fabric is 150g/m2。
Example 8
A preparation method of chiffon fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) preparing full-dull drawn yarns:
extruding a PET melt (with the intrinsic viscosity of 0.65dL/g) dispersed with 2.5 wt% of titanium dioxide from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing full-dull drawn yarns according to a POY-DT process;
wherein, the width ratio of the narrowest leaf to the widest leaf of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 1.0:2.5, the width of the narrowest leaf is 0.07mm, and the width ratio of the two broad leaves is randomly distributed (a circle of trilobal spinneret orifices which are distributed equidistantly are arranged on the spinneret plate, the number of the trilobal spinneret orifices is 24, and the ratio is 1.24, 1.02, 1.62, 1.28, 1.18, 1.5, 1.39, 1.59, 1.18, 1.19, 1.17, 1.31, 1.61, 1.3, 1.4, 1.36, 1.59, 1.37, 1.58, 1.52, 1, 1.42, 1.06 and 1.14 in sequence along the clockwise direction from one spinneret orifice, the lengths of all the trilobals are the same, the length ratio of the widest leaf to the maximum width is 2.5:1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees; all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the narrowest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center;
the parameters of the POY-DT process are as follows: the extrusion temperature is 284 ℃, the cooling air temperature is 24 ℃, the cooling air speed is 2.3m/s, the winding speed is 2630m/min, the stretching temperature is 87 ℃, the stretching multiple is 3.2, and the shaping temperature is 158 ℃;
the prepared full-dull drawn yarn consists of a plurality of PET monofilaments with trilobal cross sections and containing titanium dioxide; the breaking strength of the full-dull drawn yarn is 2.93cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 40%, and the filament number is 1.24 dtex;
(2) taking full-dull drawn yarns as a crepe warp raw material and a crepe weft raw material, interweaving the crepe warp raw material and the crepe weft raw material into plain weave, and then performing relaxation heat treatment at the temperature of 110 ℃ for 22min to obtain a chiffon fabric; wherein the twist of the crepe warp is 300 twists/m, the twist of the crepe weft is 300 twists/m, and the twist directions of the crepe warp and the crepe weft are opposite;
the full-dull drawn yarn in the prepared chiffon fabric has a three-dimensional crimp shape, the crimp shrinkage rate of the full-dull drawn yarn is 27%, the crimp stability of the full-dull drawn yarn is 75%, the shrinkage elongation of the full-dull drawn yarn is 69%, and the crimp elastic recovery rate of the full-dull drawn yarn is 80%; the gram weight of the chiffon fabric is 140g/m2。
Claims (7)
1. A preparation method of chiffon fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: taking full-dull drawn yarns as a crepe warp raw material and a crepe weft raw material, interweaving the crepe warp raw material and the crepe weft raw material into a plain weave, and then performing relaxation heat treatment to obtain a chiffon fabric;
the twist of the crepe warp or the crepe weft is 300-500 twists/m, and the twist direction of the crepe warp is opposite to that of the crepe weft;
the preparation process of the full-dull drawn yarn comprises the following steps:
extruding a PET melt from a trilobal spinneret orifice on a spinneret plate, cooling by circular blowing, and preparing full-dull drawn yarns according to a POY-DT process;
2.5-3.0 wt% of titanium dioxide is dispersed in the PET melt;
the ratio of the widths of the narrowest leaf and the widest leaf of the trilobal spinneret orifice is 1.0: 1.5-2.5, the width of the narrowest leaf is fixed, the ratio of the widths of the two broad leaves is randomly distributed between 1-1.67, the lengths of all the trilobals are the same, the ratio of the length of the widest leaf to the maximum width is 1.5-2.5: 1, and the included angle of the central lines of the two adjacent leaves is 120 degrees;
all the trilobal spinneret orifices are distributed in concentric circles, and the center line of the narrowest leaf of each trilobal spinneret orifice passes through the circle center and points away from the circle center.
2. The preparation method of the chiffon fabric according to claim 1, wherein the intrinsic viscosity of PET is 0.65-0.70 dL/g.
3. The preparation method of the chiffon fabric according to claim 2, wherein the parameters of the POY-DT process are as follows: the extrusion temperature is 280-285 ℃, the cooling air temperature is 20-25 ℃, the cooling air speed is 1.8-2.3 m/s, the winding speed is 2500-3000 m/min, the stretching temperature is 85-80 ℃, the stretching multiple is 3.0-3.3, and the shaping temperature is 150-170 ℃.
4. The preparation method of the chiffon fabric according to claim 1, wherein the temperature of the relaxation heat treatment is 80-120 ℃, and the time is 20-30 min; the full-dull drawn yarn consists of a plurality of PET monofilaments with trilobal cross sections and containing titanium dioxide.
5. The preparation method of the chiffon fabric according to claim 4, wherein before the relaxation heat treatment, the breaking strength of the full-dull drawn yarn is more than or equal to 2.8cN/dtex, the elongation at break is 40.0 +/-5.0%, and the filament number is 1.00-1.50 dtex.
6. The method for preparing chiffon fabric according to claim 4, wherein after the relaxation heat treatment, the full dull drawn yarn has a three-dimensional crimp shape with a crimp shrinkage of 24-27%, a crimp stability of 78-82%, a shrinkage elongation of 63-68%, and a crimp elastic recovery of 75-80%.
7. The preparation method of the chiffon fabric according to claim 1, wherein the gram weight of the chiffon fabric is 133-150 g/m2。
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| CN114701213A (en) * | 2022-03-28 | 2022-07-05 | 宜兴市新东茂纺织科技有限公司 | Flax and bamboo blended fabric with air permeability and moisture absorption functions and preparation method thereof |
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