CN110799170A

CN110799170A - Powdery cosmetic composition based on an oil-in-water dispersion coated with hydrophobic silica aerogel particles

Info

Publication number: CN110799170A
Application number: CN201880042854.2A
Authority: CN
Inventors: B·平海罗·拜拉斯
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2017-06-26
Filing date: 2018-06-26
Publication date: 2020-02-14
Anticipated expiration: 2038-06-26
Also published as: CN110799170B; WO2019002278A1; FR3067931B1; EP3644942A1; ES2938661T3; EP3644942B1; FR3067931A1

Abstract

A powdery cosmetic composition based on an oil-in-water dispersion coated with hydrophobic silica aerogel particles. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in powder form, wherein each powder particle consists of: a dispersion of oil phase droplets in an aqueous phase, said oil phase being present in a content of at least 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and comprising at least one mineral oil; and, a coating comprising at least some hydrophobic silica aerogel particles. The invention also relates to a process for preparing such a composition.

Description

Powdery cosmetic composition based on an oil-in-water dispersion coated with hydrophobic silica aerogel particles

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in powder form comprising particles of hydrophobic silica aerogel and nanoparticles containing alumina; and to methods of using the compositions.

Background

It is known that in the field of care products, compositions can be used in the form of creams, gels or liquid preparations (e.g. serums).

Such compositions are typically applied to dry skin to achieve even application and optimal results, such as moisturizing effects.

Therefore, applying such compositions after bathing requires prior drying of the skin. Furthermore, these compositions may be difficult to spread (e.g., as may be the case if the formulation is too fluid or conversely too thick). During transport, these compositions may partially leak out of their packaging, causing leakage.

Thus, there is a need for compositions, in particular care compositions, which are easy to apply, in particular on wet skin. Such compositions must also be easy to transport, light in weight and free from the risk of leakage.

Disclosure of Invention

The present invention responds to this need. The present invention discloses a new galenic form product in powder form. This powder may be referred to as a "dry emulsion", which is an oil-in-water emulsion containing a minimum amount of water and coated with a specific coating. In use, such powders absorb the water present on the skin (in particular on the face and/or body) and/or on the hair, especially after bathing. Thus, the composition replaces the skin drying step, especially the step of using a towel to dry the skin, while providing care.

Such a composition is also easy to transport without any risk of leakage. It is light in weight and occupies little space (it can be packaged in a small volume).

The object of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition in powder form, in which each powder granule consists of:

a dispersion of oil phase droplets in an aqueous phase, the oil phase being present in a content of at least 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and comprising at least one mineral oil; and

a coating comprising at least some hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.

Such powders are suitable for application to wet or moist skin.

Another object of the invention is a process for preparing such a composition, which comprises mixing an oil phase, an aqueous phase and a coating, and optionally drying the resulting mixture. Preferably, the mixing step comprises the use of a shearing element.

Detailed Description

In the present specification, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more", and may be substituted for "one or more".

In the present description, the expression "comprised between … …" is equivalent to the expression "from … … to … …" and may replace "from … … to … …".

The composition according to the invention is a powder. Each powder particle includes a liquid core and a coating. The liquid core is a dispersion of oil phase droplets in an aqueous phase, i.e. an oil-in-water emulsion. The coating comprises at least some hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.

In other words, the composition according to the invention is a "dry" emulsion. Generally, the oil-in-water emulsion (constituting the above core) comprises an aqueous phase present in minimum amount and is coated with at least some hydrophobic silica aerogel particles, preferably with a mixture of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles and nanoparticles comprising alumina, to obtain a powder.

In particular, during use, the composition according to the invention absorbs the water present on the face and/or body and/or hair, for example after bathing. The powder particles are then broken up and mixed with water; this can therefore replace wiping with a towel and at the same time provide care.

The compositions according to the invention are therefore also referred to as "care powders".

As demonstrated by the examples, the compositions according to the invention have an innovative galenic form and the silica aerogel particles of the coating and the specific oil phase play an important role in this galenic form.

Oil phase

Compositions consistent with the present invention include an oil phase dispersed in an aqueous phase. The oil phase is present in an amount of at least 12 wt% based on the total weight of the composition and comprises at least one mineral oil. The mineral oil is a mineral hydrocarbon oil.

For the purposes of the present invention, "oily phase" means a phase comprising at least one oil and all the fat-soluble and lipophilic ingredients and fatty substances used to formulate the compositions according to the invention.

Oil means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20 ℃ to 25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The oils according to the invention may be volatile or non-volatile.

The composition comprises at least one mineral hydrocarbon oil. The composition may further comprise at least one additional oil. The additional oil may be selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, and mixtures thereof. Hydrocarbon oils suitable for use in the present invention may be animal hydrocarbon oils, vegetable hydrocarbon oils, or synthetic hydrocarbon oils. The additional oil may be selected from the group consisting of vegetable hydrocarbon oils, synthetic hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one SiO group.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" is used to indicate an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The term "fluorinated oil" refers to an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

The hydrocarbon oils according to the invention may also contain oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl, amine, amide, ester, ether or acid groups, and in particular in the form of hydroxyl, ester, ether or acid groups.

The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.

The term "volatile oil" according to the invention means any oil capable of evaporating in less than 1 hour in contact with the skin or keratin fibres, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil according to the invention means a volatile oil that is liquid at ambient temperature and has a vapour pressure different from zero at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure and in particular ranging from 0.13Pa to 40000Pa (10 Pa)^-3mmHg to 300mmHg), in particular between 1.3Pa and 13000Pa (0.01mmHg to 100mmHg), more in particular between 1.3Pa and 1300Pa (0.01mmHg to 10 mmHg).

The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil which remains on the skin or keratin fibres for at least several hours at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure and has a vapour pressure in particular of less than 10^-3mmHg (0.13Pa) oil.

Hydrocarbon oil

Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of:

(i) hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides, are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol, wherein the chain length of the fatty acids ranges from C4 to C24, wherein the fatty acids may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, almond oil and in particular sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia nut oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, squash oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, shizandra oil, passion flower oil, musk rose oil, coconut oil; or caprylic/capric triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the trade names Miglyol810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel;

(ii) synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

(iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as vaseline oil, polydecene, hydrogenated polyisobutene (such as paraffin, squalane), and mixtures thereof (mineral oil);

(iv) synthetic esters, such as oils of formula RCOOR ', wherein R represents the residue of a straight or branched chain fatty acid having from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R ' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branch having from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R + R ' > 10; such synthetic esters are, for example, uropygian oil (cetyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoates (such as the products sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN" or "Witconol TN" by WITCO or the products sold under the trade name "TEGOSOFT TN" by EVONIK goldshmidt), 2-ethylphenylbenzoates (such as the product sold under the name "X-TEND 226" by ISP), isopropyl laurate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, fructo oleate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearoyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate (such as the product sold under the trade name "Dub Dis" by stearerie Dubois), octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyols (such as propylene glycol dicaprylate); hydroxylated esters such as lactic acid isostearate, malic acid diisostearate; pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates, such as C12 to C13 linear dialkyl tartrates, such as those sold under the name cosmecol ETL by enihemaugustussa INDUSTRIALS, and C14 to C15 linear dialkyl tartrates, such as those sold under the name cosmecol ETL by the same company; acetic ester;

(v) fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain of 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;

(vi) higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;

(vii) carbonates, such as dioctyl carbonate, such as the product sold by Cognis under the name "Cetiol CC";

(viii) fatty amides such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate, such as the product sold by Ajinomoto under the name Eldew SL-205, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the oily phase comprises at least one non-volatile mineral oil and at least one non-volatile vegetable hydrocarbon oil.

Preferably, the non-volatile vegetable hydrocarbon oil is selected from triglycerides, in particular from fatty acids and triglycerides of glycerol, wherein the fatty acids have a linear or branched chain, saturated or unsaturated, with a length of 4 to 24 carbon atoms.

More preferably, the non-volatile vegetable hydrocarbon oil is selected from wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, almond oil and in particular sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia nut oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, squash oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa rye oil, safflower oil, chestnut oil, passion flower oil, musk rose oil, coconut oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

The volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used according to the invention may in particular be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular from C8 to C16 branched alkanes, such as petroleum-based C8 to C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, oils sold under the trade name Isopars or permethyls, branched C8 to C16 esters, isohexyl pivalate, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of the alkanes described in patent applications WO 2007/068371 or WO2008/155059 (mixtures of different alkanes, differing by at least one carbon atom) proposed by Cognis. These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols derived from coconut oil or palm oil. Mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008/155059, filed by Cognis.

Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, respectively, and mixtures thereof.

Other volatile hydrocarbon oils may also be used, such as petroleum distillates, particularly those sold under the name shellsalt by shelll.

In one embodiment, the volatile solvent is selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

Silicone oil

The non-volatile silicone oil may be chosen in particular from non-volatile Polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl or alkoxy groups, each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, at the end of the siloxane chain or in side chains; phenylated siloxanes, such as phenyltrimethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethylsiloxane, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, or (2-phenylethyl) trimethylsiloxysilicate.

Volatile silicone oils which may be used include, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8X 10)^-6m²S) and especially those having 2 to 7 silicon atoms. These siloxanes optionally contain alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Mention may in particular be made, as volatile silicone oils suitable for use in the present invention, of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of volatile alkyltrisiloxane oils having general formula (I):

wherein R represents an alkyl group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and wherein one or several hydrogen atoms may be substituted by fluorine or chlorine atoms.

Among the oils having general formula (I), mention may be made of: 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5, 5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5, 5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5, 5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, which correspond respectively to oils of formula (I) in which R is butyl, propyl or ethyl.

Preferably, the oil phase comprises at least one silicone oil, preferably a non-volatile PDMS.

Fluorinated oils

Volatile fluorinated oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof may also be used.

The oil phase may also comprise other fatty substances. The additional fatty substances (or lipophilic compounds) that may be present in the oily phase may be chosen from:

fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid;

waxes, such as lanolin wax, beeswax, carnauba wax or candelilla wax (candelilla wax), paraffin or montan wax or microcrystalline wax, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes (such as polyethylene wax and fischer-tropsch wax);

pasty compounds (paste) detailed below, such as butter of vegetable origin;

fatty alcohols, solid at ambient temperature and having a linear carbon chain of 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl stearyl alcohol;

and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the oily phase further comprises at least one lipophilic compound selected from: fatty alcohols which are solid at ambient temperature and have a linear carbon chain of 12 to 26 carbon atoms, silicone oils, fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, waxes, in particular pasty compounds as defined below, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferably, the oily phase also comprises a mixture of fatty alcohols which are solid at ambient temperature and have a linear carbon chain of from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, silicone oils, fatty acids having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, waxes and pasty compounds (in particular as defined below).

As mentioned above, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one pasty hydrocarbon or silicon compound (or pasty fatty substance) at 23 ℃.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" refers to a lipophilic fatty compound having a reversible solid/liquid state change, having an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state, and having a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 23 ℃.

In other words, the initial melting point of the paste-like compound may be below 23 ℃. The liquid portion of the paste-like compound may comprise 9 to 97 wt% of the compound, when measured at 23 ℃. The liquid fraction preferably constitutes from 15 wt% to 85 wt%, more preferably from 40 wt% to 85 wt%, at 23 ℃.

The melting point of the solid fatty substance can be measured using a Differential Scanning Calorimeter (DSC), for example by using a calorimeter with TA Universal Analysis software sold under the trade name "DSC Q100" by TAs instruments, according to the protocol described hereinbefore.

More specifically, at 23 ℃, the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound is equal to the ratio between the melting enthalpy consumed at 23 ℃ and the melting enthalpy of the pasty compound.

The enthalpy of fusion of a paste-like compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound changing from a solid state to a liquid state. When the entire mass of the paste-like compound is in a solid crystalline form, the paste-like compound is considered to be in a solid state. When the entire mass of the pasty compound is in liquid form, the pasty compound is considered to be in the liquid state.

Specifically, the enthalpy of fusion of the paste-like compound is equal to the area under the thermogram curve obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter. The enthalpy of fusion of a paste-like compound is the amount of energy required to change the compound from a solid state to a liquid state, and is expressed in J/g.

The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ℃ is the amount of energy required for the sample to change from a solid state to a state of liquid and solid fraction composition at 23 ℃.

The pasty compounds can be chosen in particular from synthetic pasty compounds and fatty substances of vegetable origin. The paste-like compound may be a hydrocarbon or a siloxane.

The pasty compound may be chosen in particular from:

lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohols, oxyethylenated lanolin, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters (such as isopropyl lanolate), oxypropylenated lanolin;

petrolatum (also known as petrolatum);

a polyol ether selected from pentaerythritol and C2 to C4 polyalkylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohols and sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof. For example, ethers of pentaerythritol and polyethylene glycol containing 5 oxyethylene units (5OE) (CTFA name: PEG-5 pentaerythritol ether), ethers of pentaerythritol and polypropylene glycol containing 5 oxypropylene units (5OP) (CTFA name: PPG-5 pentaerythritol ether), and mixtures thereof; and more specifically mention is made of a mixture of PEG-5 pentaerythritol ether, PPG-5 pentaerythritol ether and soybean oil sold by VEVY under the name "Lanolide", in which the weight ratios of the ingredients are 46:46:8, i.e. 46% PEG-5 pentaerythritol ether, 46% PPG-5 pentaerythritol ether and 8% soybean oil;

esters of glycerol oligomers, especially esters of diglycerol with: monocarboxylic acids, which may be hydroxylated, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated (preferably saturated), C6 to C20 monocarboxylic acids; and/or, a dicarboxylic acid which is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated (preferably saturated), C6 to C10 dicarboxylic acid; in particular adipic acid and diglycerol, in which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerol have been reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, for example under the trade name Sasol

649 sold as bis-diglycerol polyacyladipate-2;

vinyl ester homopolymers having C8 to C30 alkyl groups, such as homopolymers of polyvinyl alcohol laurate (sold in particular by Chimex under the trade name mexomer PP);

arachidyl alcohol propionate sold by ALZO under the tradename Waxenol 801;

a phytosterol ester;

triglycerides of fatty acids and derivatives thereof, in particular triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly mono-or polyhydroxy, C6 to C30 fatty acids and more particularly triglycerides of C8 to C18 fatty acids, possibly partially or fully hydrogenated; for example Softisan by Sasol under the trade mark

Selling;

pentaerythritol esters;

aliphatic esters derived from the esterification of aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acids with aliphatic carboxylic acids. More particularly, the aliphatic carboxylic acid is C4 to C30, preferably C8 to C30. The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably selected from the group consisting of hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, heneicosanoic acid, and docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof. The aliphatic carboxylic acids are preferably branched. The hydroxycarboxylic esters are advantageously derived from hydroxylated C2 to C40, preferably C10 to C34, more preferably C12 to C28 carboxylic acids; wherein the number of hydroxyl groups is from 1 to 20, more especially from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 6;

glycol ester dimers and dibasic ester dimers in which optionally the alcohol or free acid functionality is esterified with an acid or alcohol group, particularly dilinoleate dimers; such esters may in particular be selected from esters having the following INCI classification: bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dioleyl dimer Plandogol G), phytosterol/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dioleyl dimer (Plandogol H or Plandogol S), and mixtures thereof,

hydrogenated rosin ester (Lusplan DD-DHR or DD-DHR from Nippon Fine chemical)

Butter of vegetable origin, such as mango butter (e.g. fromMango butter sold under the designation Lipex 203 by AARHUSKARLSHAMN); shea Butter, particularly INCI, is named shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), such as by AARHUSKARLSHAMN under the trade name BUTYL

-shea butter sold; pterocarpus marsupium lipid (RAIN stress RF3710 from Beraca Sabara); cocoa butter; babassu butter, such as that sold under the name croure Babassu SS- (LK) by Croda; and, Orange waxes, such as the Orange Wax sold under the trademark Orange Peel Wax by Koster Keunen;

fully or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated soybean oil; hydrogenated coconut oil; hydrogenated rapeseed oil; mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated soybean oil, coconut oil, palm oil and rapeseed vegetable oil, for example, sold under the trade name AARHUSKARLSHAMN

The mixture sold (INCI name hydrogenated vegetable oil) by DesertWhale under the commercial trade designation Iso-Jojoba-

Trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, partially hydrogenated olive oil, manufactured or sold, for example, as sold by solience under the trade designation berurrolive;

hydrogenated castor oil esters such as hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, for example RISOCAST-DA-L sold by KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO; and, hydrogenated castor OIL isostearate, such as SALACOSHCIS (V-L) sold by NISSHIN OIL;

and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the pasty compounds useful in the present invention are selected from butters of vegetable origin, preferably the butters mentioned above.

According to one embodiment, the composition comprises from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight, even better from 0.3% to 1.5% by weight of the pasty compound, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The content of the oil phase is from 13% to 40% by weight, preferably from 13.5% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase comprises water and possibly at least one organic solvent soluble or miscible in water.

The aqueous phase suitable for use in the present invention may for example comprise water selected from: natural spring water such as Laroshi Persai water (La Roche-Posay water), Vitel water (Vittel water) or Vichwater (Vichy water); or flower water.

Preferably, the water content is from 5 wt% to 70 wt%, preferably from 6 wt% to 60 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Water-soluble or water-miscible solvents suitable for use in the present invention include: short chain monohydric alcohols, for example C1 to C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol; and diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol, sorbitol; and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, in particular one of ethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol or mixtures thereof may be used.

Preferably, the water-soluble or water-miscible solvent is present in an amount of from 4 wt% to 20 wt%, preferably from 5 wt% to 15 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, according to one particular form of the invention, the aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 10% to 75% by weight, preferably from 15% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aerogel particles of hydrophobic silica

The composition (powder) according to the invention comprises a coating comprising at least some hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.

Aerogels were ultra-lightweight porous materials, originally produced by Kristler in 1932.

In general,aerogels are synthesized by sol-gel methods in a liquid medium and then dried by supercritical fluid extraction. The most commonly used supercritical fluid is supercritical CO₂. This type of drying makes it possible to prevent shrinkage of the pores and of the material. Other types of drying that can obtain a porous material starting from a gel can also be used, such as: (i) freeze-drying, which is solidifying the gel at low temperature and then subliming the solvent, and (ii) evaporation-drying. The materials thus obtained are called cryogels and xerogels, respectively. The Sol-Gel method and various drying are described in detail in Brinker CJ., and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.

"hydrophobic silica" refers to a surface silanized reagent, for example, a halosilane (such as an alkylchlorosilane); siloxanes, particularly dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane; or any silica that has been treated with a silazane to functionalize the-OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, such as trimethylsilyl groups.

Preferably, the aerogel particles of hydrophobic silica usable in the present invention have a particle size advantageously of 500m²G to 1500m²A/g, preferably of 600m²G to 1200m²G, even better 600m²G to 800m²Specific surface area per unit mass (SM) that varies between/g.

Preferably, the aerogel particles of hydrophobic silica useful in the present invention have a particulate oil absorption capacity advantageously varying between 5ml/g and 18ml/g, preferably between 6ml/g and 15ml/g, better still between 8ml/g and 12ml/g, measured by the wet-point method.

Preferably, the aerogel particles of hydrophobic silica which can be used in the present invention advantageously have a size, expressed as the mean diameter (D [0.5]), which varies from less than 1500 μm and preferably from 1 μm to 30 μm, preferably from 5 μm to 25 μm, even better from 5 μm to 20 μm, still even better from 5 μm to 15 μm.

Preferably, the aerogel particles of hydrophobic silica useful in the present invention advantageously have a particle size of between 0.04g/cm³To 0.10g/cm³Preferably at 0.05g/cm³To 0.08g/cm³BetweenA varying compaction density ρ.

Preferably, the aerogel particles of hydrophobic silica useful in the present invention advantageously have a particle size of between 5m²/cm³To 60m²/cm³Preferably at 10m²/cm³To 50m²/cm³Even better at 15m²/cm³To 40m²/cm³The specific surface area per unit volume (SV) of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the aerogel particles of hydrophobic silica according to the invention have a particle size of between 500m²G to 1500m²G, preferably at 600m²G to 1200m²G, even better at 600m²G to 800m²Specific surface area per unit mass (SM) varying between/g; and has a mean diameter (D0.5)]) Expressed dimensions varying between 1 μm and 30 μm; and/or its oil absorption capacity of the particles as measured by the wet-point method, varying between 5 and 18ml/g, preferably between 6 and 15ml/g, even better between 8 and 12 ml/g.

According to another preferred embodiment, the aerogel particles of hydrophobic silica used in the invention have a particle size of 600m²G to 800m²Specific surface area per unit mass (SM) varying between/g and in average volume diameter (D0.5)]) The indicated dimensions vary between 5 μm and 20 μm, better still between 5 μm and 15 μm.

The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined using the nitrogen absorption method known as the BET (BRUNAUER-EMMET-TELLER) method described in "journal of the American chemical society" at volume 60, page 309 in 1938, and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D). The BET specific surface area is the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.

The absorption capacity, measured by the wet-point method and expressed as Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that has to be added to 100g of granules in order to obtain a homogeneous paste. This absorption capacity is measured by the wet-point method or the method of determining the oil absorption of the powder according to the principles described in standard NF T30-022. This absorption capacity corresponds to the amount of oil absorbed on the available surface of the powder and/or the amount of oil absorbed by the powder according to the wet-point measurement, which is described below:

a certain amount (m ═ 2g) of the powder was placed on a glass plate, and then oil (isononyl isononanoate) was added dropwise. After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mixing was performed with a spatula, and then the oil was added continuously until a dough of oil and powder was formed. After this stage, one drop of oil was added at a time, and the mixture was then ground with a spatula. When a firm and smooth paste was obtained, the addition of oil was stopped. This paste should be able to spread on the glass plate without cracking and forming lumps. The volume Vs of oil used (expressed in mL) is then noted.

The oil absorption (oil absorption capacity) corresponds to the Vs/m ratio.

The size of the aerogel particles according to the invention can be measured by static light diffusion with the aid of a commercially available Malvern MasterSizer2000 particle sizer. And processing the data based on the Mie scattering theory. This theory is accurate for isotropic particles and in the case of non-spherical particles, the "effective" particle diameter can be determined. This theory is described in particular in chapters 9 and 10 of the book "Light carving bySmall Particles", published by Van de Hulst, H.C. in Wiley, New York, 1957.

Within the framework of the present invention, the following protocol, called the compaction density protocol, can be used to evaluate the compaction density: 40g of the powder was poured into a graduated test tube, which was then placed on a STAV2003 apparatus manufactured by STAMPF VOLUMETER. A series of 2500 impressions were then applied to the test tube (this operation was repeated until the volume difference between two successive compactions was less than 2%); the final volume Vf of the compacted powder was then measured directly on the test specimen. Then through the mass (m) A/f ratio, which is actually 40/Vf (where Vf is in cm)³Expressed in g) to determine the compacted density.

The specific surface area per unit volume is obtained from the following relation: SV ═ SM x p, where p is in g/cm³Compacted density as indicated, and SM is m²Specific surface area per unit mass expressed in/g, as described above.

The aerogel particles of hydrophobic silica used according to the invention are preferably aerogel particles of silane-based silica (INCI name).

The preparation of aerogel particles of hydrophobic silica, the surface of which has been modified by silylation, is described in the earlier document US 7,470,725.

In particular, particles of hydrophobic silica aerogel whose surface is modified with trimethylsilyl groups will be used.

Hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the present invention include, for example, the aerogels sold under the name VM-2260(INCI name: silanized silica) by Dow Corning, the aerogel particles having an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass of 600m²G to 800m²Varied between/g.

Mention may also be made of the AEROGELs sold by Cabot under the designations AIRGEL TLD 201, air gel OGD 201 and AIRGEL TLD 203, ENOVA air gel MT 1100, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200.

In particular, an aerogel sold under the name VM-2270(INCI name: Silanised) by Dow Corning will be used, the mean size of the particles of which varies from about 5 to 15 microns, the specific surface area per unit mass being 600m²G to 800m²Varied between/g.

Obviously, mixtures of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles can be used.

The compositions of the present invention may comprise: hydrophobic silica aerogel particles in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight and even better from 0.2% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Alumina-containing nanoparticles

The composition according to the invention also comprises nanoparticles comprising aluminium oxide.

By "nanoparticles" is meant solid particles having an average primary size (primary size) of from 5nm to 25nm, preferably from 8nm to 18 nm.

According to the invention, the solid nanoparticles containing alumina form agglomerates, wherein the alumina does not act as a coating, capsule or absorbent for one or other fillers (such as one or more metal oxides).

If the nanoparticles are formed from alumina and other fillers, the alumina is in a free state and does not form chemical bonds with the other fillers. It is then a fusion (alloy) between alumina and other fillers, in particular with metal or metalloid oxides, in particular selected from silicon or boron oxide, and in particular obtained by thermal fusion of these different compositions.

In the meaning of the present invention, "primary particle size" means the largest dimension that can be measured between two opposite points of a particle. The average primary size is determined by transmission electron microscopy or by measuring the specific surface area using the BET technique.

The alumina nanoparticles may for example have any shape, for example they may be in the form of spheres, platelets, needles or completely random shapes.

Preferably, the nanoparticles comprise at least 50% alumina.

According to a further advantageous embodiment of the invention, the nanoparticles are alumina nanoparticles.

Advantageously, the alumina-containing nanoparticles are present in the composition in a concentration equal to 15 to 60 wt%, preferably 17 to 50 wt%, and even more preferably 18 to 45 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the alumina-containing nanoparticles are used in the native state, in other words, they are not encapsulated or coated by any agent, such as a polymer.

Preferably, the ALUMINA-containing nanoparticles are sold by Sensient under the trade name ALUMINA AS-EM.

Advantageously, the weight ratio of (hydrophobic silica aerogel particles) to (alumina-containing nanoparticles) is between 0.005 and 0.03, preferably between 0.01 and 0.02.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises: with respect to the total weight of the composition,

55 to 70 wt% of an aqueous phase;

10 to 20 wt% of an oil phase; and

15 to 25 wt% of a coating comprising hydrophobic silica aerogel particles and nanoparticles comprising alumina.

15 to 40 wt% of an aqueous phase;

20 to 35 wt% of an oil phase; and

30 to 50 wt% of a coating comprising hydrophobic silica aerogel particles and nanoparticles comprising alumina.

30 to 60 wt% of an aqueous phase;

15 to 25 wt% of an oil phase; and

20 to 40 wt% of a coating comprising hydrophobic silica aerogel particles and nanoparticles comprising alumina.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise classic cosmetic additives chosen in particular from thickeners, fragrances, preservatives, surfactants, active ingredients and in particular moisturizers, fillers, alkylating agents or acidifying agents, or any other ingredient commonly used cosmetically and/or dermatologically.

The thickening agent comprises: carboxyvinyl polymers, e.g.(Carbomers) and Pemulens (such as

And

) (acrylate/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer); polyacrylamides, e.g. by Seppic

(CTFA name: polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7) or Simulgel 600(CTFA name: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer/isohexadecane/polysorbate 80); optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, such as those sold under the trade name Hoechst

(CTFA name: Polyacrylamidodimethyltauric acid ammonium) or SIMULGEL sold by SEPPIC

(CTFA name: Polyacrylamide Dimethyltaurate/Polysorbate 80/sorbitan oleate); 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers, such as SIMULGEL sold by SEPPIC

And SEPINOV EMT

Cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethyl cellulose; polysaccharides, especially gums, such as xanthan gum; water-soluble or water-dispersible silicone derivatives such as acrylic silicone, silicone polyether, and cationic silicone; and mixtures thereof.

The thickener is preferably present in an amount of between 0.1 and 5 wt%, preferably between 0.2 and 1 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The surfactant is preferably selected from the group consisting of anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, zwitterionic surfactants and amphoteric surfactants. Preferably, the surfactant is selected from:

a) the nonionic surfactants, used alone or in mixtures, particularly with an HLB of from 8 ℃ to 25 ℃ or above. Mention may in particular be made of:

esters and ethers of sugars such as cetyl stearyl glucoside mixed with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, e.g. Montanov 68 from Seppic;

an oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene ether of glycerol (which may have 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups);

the oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene ethers of fatty alcohols (in particular C8-C24 alcohols, preferably C12-C18 alcohols) which may have 1 to 150 oxyethylene groups and/or oxypropylene groups, such as the oxyethylene ether of cetyl alcohol having 30 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name "Ceteaeth-30"), the oxyethylene ether of stearyl alcohol having 20 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name "Steareth-20"), the oxyethylene ether of a mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols having 7 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name "C12-15 Pareth-7"), in particular the ODNEOL name ODNEOL SHELL CHEMICALS

Commercially available ethylene oxide ethers;

esters of polyoxyalkylated fatty acids (in particular esters of polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylated fatty acids), possibly in combination with fatty acid esters and glycerol, such as for example the PEG-100 stearate/glycerol stearate mixture sold by Croda under the trade name Arlacel 165;

fatty acid esters (in particular C8-C24 acids, preferably C16-C22 acids) and oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may have from 1 to 150 oxyethyl and/or oxypropylyl groups), such as are known by SEPPIC, in particular under the name Simulsol 220

PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate sold; by ICI UNIQUEMA, in particular under the name MYRJ

PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate sold; polyethoxy glyceryl stearate having 30 ethylene oxide groups (such as TAGAT product sold by Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT)

) Polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate having 30 oxirane groups (e.g. TAGAT, a product sold by Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT

) Polyethoxylated glyceryl cocoate having 30 ethylene oxide groups (such as VARIONIC LI, a product sold by SHEREX

) Polyethoxy isostearic acid glyceride having 30 ethylene oxide groups (such as the product TAGAT sold by Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT)

) And polyethoxy lauric acid glyceride having 30 ethylene oxides (e.g. TAGAT product of Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT)

)；

Fatty acid esters (in particular C8-C24 acids, preferably C16-C22 acids) and oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (possibly with 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups), such as those produced by CRODA, in particular under the name Tween

Polysorbate 20 sold by Croda, in particular under the name TweenPolysorbate 60 sold;

dimethicone copolyols, e.g. from Dow Corning

The dimethicone copolybenzoate sold under the name FINTEX FINSOLV SLB

And

)，

copolymers of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide, also known as OE/OP polycondensates,

and mixtures thereof.

b) Anionic surfactants such as:

salts of polyoxyethylenated fatty acids, in particular those derived from amine or basic salts, and mixtures thereof;

phosphoric esters and salts thereof, such as "oleyl polyether-10 phosphate" (Crodafos N10N from CRODA) or mono-or potassium hexadecyl phosphate (amphsol K from Givaudan);

sulfosuccinates such as "disodium PEG-5 citrate lauryl sulfosuccinate" and "disodium castor oil amido MEA sulfosuccinate";

alkyl ether sulfates such as sodium lauryl ether sulfate;

a isethionic acid salt;

acyl glutamates, such as "disodium hydrogenated tallow glutamate" (Amisoft HS-21 sold by Ajinomoto)) And sodium stearoyl glutamate (AMISOFT HS-11 sold by Ajinomoto

) And mixtures thereof;

soybean derivatives such as potassium soyate;

citrates, such as glyceryl stearate citrate (Axol C62 from Degussa);

derivatives of proline such as sodium palmitoyl proline (sepialmitat VG from Seppic), or sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, palmitic acid and palmitoyl proline in mixture (sepifellone from Seppic);

lactates such as sodium stearoyl lactylate (Akoline SL from Karlshamns AB);

sarcosinates such as sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate (Nikkol sarcosinate PN) or a mixture of stearoyl sarcosinate and myristoyl sarcosinate 75/25 (Crodasin SM from Croda);

sulfonates, such as sodium C14-17 alkyl secondary sulfonate (Hostapur SAS 60 from Clariant);

glycinates, such as sodium cocoyl glycinate (Amilite GCS-12 from Ajinomoto).

Preferably, the surfactant used is a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of greater than or equal to 8 ℃ to 25 ℃.

The surfactant is preferably present in an amount of 0.1 to 5 wt%, preferably 0.2 to 3 wt%, preferably 0.5 to 2 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Another object of the invention is a process for preparing such a composition, which comprises mixing an oil phase, an aqueous phase and a coating, and optionally drying the resulting mixture. Preferably, the mixing step comprises the use of a shearing element. Preferably, the mixing step is accomplished by short-term stirring, i.e. stirring for a few seconds, for example 10 to 60 seconds.

This method is illustrated in the examples.

The invention will be better understood after studying the following non-limiting examples forming a preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention.

Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts in the following examples are expressed in weight percent.

Example 1:

the following compositions were prepared:

the method comprises the following steps:

80% (according to the invention or comparative example) of the formulation with a mixture of 0.26% silica aerogel and 19.74% alumina was weighed directly into the packaging. The stirring was slowly performed by manually shaking the packaged article for about 10 seconds. The pneumatic vibrator on the packaged article was activated and the shaking continued for 30 seconds, approximately 80 pulses.

The results obtained show that the formulation according to the invention gives a preparation in powder form consisting of an oil-in-water emulsion in which each particle is coated with a mixture of silica aerogel and alumina.

The 3 comparative example formulations A, B and C mixed with silica aerogel and alumina resulted in a cream rather than a powder.

Example 2:

the method comprises the following steps:

the mixture (0.26% silica aerogel or hydrophobic fumed silica and 19.74% alumina) was weighed directly into the packaging article, followed by weighing 80% of the cream (formulation according to the invention or comparative example). The stirring was slowly performed by manually shaking the packaged article for about 10 seconds. While the pneumatic vibrator on the packaged article was activated to separate the powder from the walls and shaking was continued for 30 seconds, approximately 80 pulses.

The oil phase is present in each formulation in an amount of at least 14 wt% relative to the total weight of the formulation.

The formulations according to the invention, i.e. the formulations comprising silica aerogel particles, form powders.

In contrast, the comparative example formulation containing hydrophobic fumed silica formed a paste rather than a powder.

The powder prepared according to the formulation of the present invention was spread in a pan and dried at ambient temperature for 24 hours.

The dried formulation is stable at ambient temperature.

The composition of the formulation according to the invention varies over time as follows:

the texture obtained (dry concentrated emulsion) was converted into a cream by the water remaining on the hands.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition in the form of a powder, wherein each powder granule consists of:

a dispersion of oil phase droplets in an aqueous phase, the oil phase being present in a content of at least 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and comprising at least one mineral oil, and

a coating comprising at least some hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the coating further comprises nanoparticles comprising alumina.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the aqueous phase is present in an amount comprised between 10 and 75 wt%, preferably between 15 and 70 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oil phase is present in an amount of between 13% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the content of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles is between 0.01 and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 3% by weight, and even better between 0.2 and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 5, wherein the content of nanoparticles containing alumina is between 15 and 60% by weight, preferably between 17 and 50% by weight, and even better between 18 and 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. The composition of any one of claims 2 to 6, wherein (hydrophobic silica aerogel particles): the weight ratio (of alumina-containing nanoparticles) is between 0.005 and 0.03, and preferably between 0.01 and 0.02.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oily phase comprises at least one non-volatile mineral oil and at least one non-volatile vegetable hydrocarbon oil.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-volatile vegetable hydrocarbon oil is chosen from triglycerides, in particular from fatty acids having a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated chain of 4 to 24 carbon atoms in length and triglycerides.

10. The composition according to claim 8 or 9, wherein the non-volatile vegetable hydrocarbon oil is selected from wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea butter, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, apricot kernel oil and in particular sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cotton oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia nut oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, squash oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa rye oil, safflower oil, shizandra oil, passion fruit oil, musk rose oil, coconut oil; or caprylic/capric triglyceride.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 8 to 10, in which the oily phase also comprises at least one lipophilic compound chosen from: fatty acids that are solid at ambient temperature and have a linear carbon chain of 12 to 26 carbon atoms, silicone oils, fatty acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, waxes, pasty compounds, and mixtures thereof.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition, the following:

55 to 70 wt% of an aqueous phase;

12 to 20 wt% of an oil phase; and

13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition, the following:

15 to 40 wt% of an aqueous phase;

20 to 35 wt% of an oil phase; and

14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition, the following:

30 to 60 wt% of an aqueous phase;

15 to 25 wt% of an oil phase; and

15. A method of preparing a composition according to any preceding claim, the method comprising mixing an oil phase, an aqueous phase and a coating, and optionally drying the resulting mixture.