CN110607593A - Design method and production process of facial expression bag fabric - Google Patents
Design method and production process of facial expression bag fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN110607593A CN110607593A CN201911009199.3A CN201911009199A CN110607593A CN 110607593 A CN110607593 A CN 110607593A CN 201911009199 A CN201911009199 A CN 201911009199A CN 110607593 A CN110607593 A CN 110607593A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/54—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads coloured
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D21/00—Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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Abstract
The invention discloses a design method and a production process of facial expression bag fabric, which apply the popular facial expression bag culture of a network, have the effects of funny, fun and joy, develop the fabric of facial expression bag patterns, have the same outline of the facial expression bag, have various expressions, contain 8 expressions such as 'joy, anger, funeral, sour, sweet, bitter and spicy' and the like, and accord with the colorful sentiment of the network culture; when the expression bag is designed, the integrity of the expression bag needs to be noticed, and the patterns of the expression bag need to be avoided when flowers are split; the patterns of the expression bag are concise and clear, lines in the patterns are horizontal or vertical, and the patterns with more oblique lines are less selected; the space between the expression packets can be adjusted by adding plain weave; to enhance the eye-catching effect of the facial expression bag, fluorescent lines are used.
Description
Technical Field
The invention particularly relates to a design method and a production process of an expression bag fabric.
Background
The expression package culture is an evolution of network language, is widely favored by people of all ages and is widely spread due to various elements such as changeability, fun and the like, and can make up the defects of boring character communication and word inadvisability, so the expression culture is widely used in network communication.
Inspired by the network language ' amateur love phase of raising eyebrows, and joyful and griffe ' of bowing ', the invention assumes that the criss-cross interweaving of the warp and weft yarns is utilized to express the feelings of joyful, angry, sour, sweet and bitter of people, and develops an expression bag fabric.
Disclosure of Invention
The purpose of the invention is as follows: in order to overcome the defects of the prior art, the invention provides a design method of a face fabric of an expression bag and a production process thereof.
The technical scheme is as follows: a design method and a production process of an expression bag fabric are disclosed, and the product is designed as follows:
1, designing a pattern: selecting rabbit facial expression bags, wherein the rabbit facial expression bags are 8 in number, the facial expression bags have the same outline and different facial expressions, the 8 facial expression bags are divided into a left group and a right group, the left group is a group which is sequentially joyful, angry and griseful from top to bottom, the right group is a group which is sequentially sour, sweet, bitter and spicy from top to bottom, and each group of facial expression bags are bilaterally symmetrical patterns;
2, designing colors: white warp yarns and white weft yarns are interwoven to form a ground color, coffee flower warps and the white weft yarns are interwoven to weave the outline of the expression bag, and pink flower warps form the length of the warps and weave the expression of the fabric;
in order to highlight the striking effect of the expression bag, yarns containing fluorescent fibers are used, and the fluorescent fibers are prepared by mixing fluorescent powder into polyvinyl alcohol and performing melt spinning on the mixed fluorescent powder and show specific colors under the shining of sunlight; only the expression part, namely the C warp, in the fabric is made of fluorescent fibers;
3, designing the tissue:
a. fabric weave: the weave of the fabric consists of a ground weave and a raised weave, wherein the ground weave is a plain weave, and the raised weave is a heavy flat weave;
the number of weft yarn cycles of the expression bag is large, so that when a pattern is designed, the card pattern is divided into four parts according to the organization rule of the pattern, 106 wefts are arranged in each part, and when the corresponding expression bag needs to be woven, the corresponding card is called;
b. designing the size of the pattern: the size of the expression bag is determined by the cycle number of warp and weft yarns, the penetration number of each reed, the reed number and the like, and after the reed number and the penetration number of each reed are determined, the size of the pattern is determined by the cycle number of the warp and weft yarns;
4, selection of raw materials: the number of the warp yarns is three, A, B the warp yarns adopt terylene/tencel blended yarns, the percentage of terylene is 65%, the percentage of tencel is 35%; c, selecting fluorescent yarns as warp yarns; the weft yarns adopt tencel/long stapled cotton blended yarns, wherein the tencel accounts for 50 percent, and the long stapled cotton accounts for 50 percent.
As an optimization: the pattern size design, when determining the number of warp cycles, comprises the following design steps: (1) determining the width of the pattern: preliminarily estimating the number of warp cycles of the expression bag according to the width and the density of the warps, wherein the width of the pattern of the expression bag in the fabric is 3.2cm, the warp density at the flowering position is 512/10 cm, and the number of the warp cycles of the expression bag is 512/3.2/10 or 164; (2) according to the pattern distribution of the pattern, the number of one-flower warp yarn cycles is preliminarily determined: the number of warp cycles of one expression packet is 164, one expression packet group comprises a left expression packet and a right expression packet, each expression packet group is separated by 40 warp yarns, and the number of one jacquard yarn cycle is (164+40) × 2 ═ 408 warp yarns; (3) the calculated warp circulation is different from the actual requirement of the pattern, a weave diagram needs to be constructed according to the shape of the pattern, and the number of the warp yarns is corrected as follows: the actual number of roots was corrected to 416 roots/10 cm.
As an optimization: when the pattern size is designed, the number of weft yarn cycles is determined as follows: (1) the height of the pattern is 3.4cm, the average weft density is 285 pieces/10 cm, and the number of one-flower weft yarn cycles is equal to the height of the expression bag, namely, the weft density/10 cm, namely, 285, 3.4/10, namely, 96 picks; (2) the upper and lower expression packages are separated by a plain weave, 14 picks are shared, and the number of weft cycles per flower is 96+ 14-110 picks; (3) the pattern structure was corrected to 106 picks.
As an optimization: the production process is designed as follows:
1, biaxial weaving: the difference between the ground warp and the patterned warp and the interweaving times is large, so the warp weaving shrinkage difference is large, and double-shaft weaving is needed during the process design;
2, yarn specification: the warp and weft yarns are 14.6tex multiplied by 2 double-stranded yarns, and the appropriate warp and weft density is matched, so that the fabric has excellent appearance quality;
3 color matching circulation of warp yarns: expression package to between the selvedge and expression package, separate with the A yarn, the A yarn is white, and the B yarn is the coffee, and the C yarn is pink joyous color, and the look is arranged: 40A, (1B, 1A) × 12, (1B, 1C, 1A) × 12, (1B, 1A) × 24, (1B, 1C, 1A) × 12, (1B, 1A) × 12, number of warp cycles 208;
4, splitting the flower: the number of the warp cycles is 208, the two groups of warps form a left expression bag and a right expression bag, the number of the actual warp cycles of one flower is 416, and the whole width is 12 flowers; the expression bags are not suitable for splitting flowers, the symmetric and complete flower types are ensured during the flower splitting, 40 yarns A are arranged between the left sides of the expression bags and the selvedges, two groups of expression bags are separated by 40 yarns A, in order to ensure the symmetric flower types during the flower splitting, 40 yarns A are added on the right side of the last group of expression bags, so that the number of the whole width warp yarns is 416 × 12+40 ends which are 5032, and 40 selvedges are added, and the total number of the warp yarns is 5072;
5, drafting: penetrating the ground warp yarns with a plurality of warp yarn interweaving times on the front region by 1-2 pages of healds by using a zoning drafting method; 3-6 pages of healds, 8 th pages of healds and 10-16 th pages of healds are used for the outline of the expression package; the expression uses page 7 and page 9 healds;
6, the number of reeds is designed, in order to ensure that the fabric is smooth and compact in structure, clear in outline of the flower shape and plump and protruding in the flower shape, a flower reed process is used during reeding, namely different reeding numbers are used in different places of the fabric according to the requirement of the flower shape; the fabric adopts three reeding methods: 2 in is used for each reed at the place of the ground organization, 4 in is used at the outline of the expression package, and 6 in is used at the expression place;
7, a machining process: the width of the fabric is 145cm, the total number of warps is 5072, and 40 edge yarns are arranged; the warp density of the ground tissue after the machine is off is 237 pieces/10 cm, the warp density of the pattern forming position is 512 pieces/10 cm, the average warp density is 350 pieces/10 cm, the weft density of the machine is 285 pieces/10 cm, the warp knitting shrinkage is 8.7%, the weft knitting shrinkage is 7.2%, and the reed number is 110 teeth/10 cm; the number of warp cycles of one flower is 416, 224 yarns A, 144 yarns B, 48 yarns C, the total number of warp threads of the whole width 12 is 5072, and the yarns A are used as the edge yarns, wherein 224, 12, 40, the end of the yarn A is 2768, 144, 12, 1728, and 48, 12, 576.
The production process of the design method of the facial expression bag fabric comprises the following steps:
(1) warping:
selecting a Benning grid batch warping machine for warping, wherein the warping speed is 700m/min, performing collective bobbin replacement, and not performing additional tension setting; the warp yarn has three types, the yarn A is the ground warp yarn, 2768 are totally, the ground warp yarn is integrated into 4 shafts, and the warping matching shaft is 692 x 4; 1728 yarns B are integrated into 3 shafts, and the warping arrangement is 576 x 3; the number of the C yarns is 576, and the C yarns are independently formed into shafts;
(2) sizing:
an S432 slasher is selected to combine warps, the warps are folded yarns, the density of the warps and the wefts is low, the wefts are easy to tighten, and a process of water washing and no sizing is adopted during slashing; a, combining 4 shafts of yarns into a ground shaft on a sizing machine; the B yarns and the C yarns are combined into a patterned shaft on a sizing machine, the number of the C yarns is small during combination, the C yarns are placed above the B yarns and below the B yarns, and the B yarns and the C yarns are separated by split strands for facilitating drafting;
(3) drafting:
drafting sequence: (1, 2) x20, 2 in per reed, (3, 1, 3, 2) x2, (4, 1, 4, 2) x2, (5, 1, 5, 2) x2, 4 in per reed, (6, 7, 1, 6, 7, 2) x2, (8, 9, 1, 8, 9, 2) x2, (10, 7, 1, 10, 7, 2) x2, 6 in per reed, (11, 1, 11, 2) x2, (12, 1, 12, 2) x2, (13, 1, 13, 2) x4, (12, 1, 12, 2) x2, (11, 1, 11, 2) x2, 4 in per reed, (10, 7, 1, 10, 7, 2) x2, (8, 9, 1, 8, 9, 2) x2, (6, 7, 1, 6, 7, 2) x 5966, 2) x 634 in per reed, (1, 6, 2) x 634, 2) x2, 2) x 638, 9, 2) x 638, 2, (3, 1, 3, 2) x2, (4, 1, 4, 2) x2, (5, 1, 5, 2) x2, 4 in per reed, (6, 7, 1, 6, 7, 2) x2, (14, 9, 1, 14, 9, 2) x2, (15, 7, 1, 15, 7, 2) x2, 6 in per reed, (16, 1, 16, 2) x2, (12, 1, 12, 2) x2, (13, 1, 13, 2) x4, (12, 1, 12, 2) x2, (16, 1, 16, 2) x2, 4 in per reed, (15, 7, 1, 15, 7, 2) x2, (14, 9, 1, 14, 9, 2) x2, (6, 7, 1, 6, 7, 2) x2, 6 in per reed, (1, 5, 2) x 464, 3) x 394 in per reed, (6, 5, 2) x2, 3, 2) x 2;
the heald of 1 to 2 pages penetrates through the yarn A, the heald of 3 to 6 pages, the heald of 8 th page, the heald of 10 to 16 pages penetrates through the yarn B, and the heald of 7 th page and the heald of 9 th page penetrate through the yarn C;
(4) weaving:
weaving by using a GA747 weaving machine, wherein the speed of the weaving machine is 196 r/min;
double-shaft weaving: the ground warp beam is arranged on a loom beam frame below the loom, and the warp beam is arranged on an auxiliary beam frame above the loom and controls warp feeding by using friction;
medium back rest height: the basic weave of the fabric is a plain weave, but the weft yarns are easy to tighten due to the relatively low warp and weft density of the fabric, a middle-height back beam is used, the shed is convenient to be clear, and the height of the back beam is 95 mm;
small double shed: the tension of the warp yarns is small, the opening is not easy to be clear, and the opening stroke of the warp yarn heald frame is increased during production, so that the warp yarns and the ground yarns are not on the same level to form a small double-layer shed, thereby reducing the adhesion among the warp yarns and facilitating the shed to be clear.
Has the advantages that: the invention applies the expression bag culture to the development of the fabric and provides a brand new design concept for vast fashionable fabric designers. When developing the rabbit facial expression bag fabric, mainly need to pay attention to following several points: (1) selecting a proper expression bag, wherein the structure of the expression bag is simple and concise and cannot be complicated, the lines are selected to be horizontal or vertical as much as possible, the oblique lines are few, the length of the oblique lines can increase the using number of heald frames, and therefore the design difficulty is increased; (2) the space between the two groups of surface packages can be adjusted by increasing or decreasing the number of the warp and weft yarns of the plain weave; (3) the ground organization of the expression bag needs to use a simple organization structure, and the simple organization structure can make the outline of the expression bag clear and obvious on one hand and save heald frames on the other hand, thereby facilitating the design of the pattern raising part; (4) the expression bag is highly designed. The height of the pattern is increased mainly by increasing the warp floating length, the longitudinal warp floating length is long, the expression bag is large, and the warp floating length is small, the expression bag is small. The fabric with long warp floats has large patterns, is easy to hook, has poor wear resistance and can be used for decorative fabrics; the length of the warp floats is small, the pattern structure is small and compact, the warp floats can be used for clothing, and the length of the warp floats can be determined after comprehensive balance according to the purpose of the fabric when the fabric is designed; (5) width design of the emoticon pattern: the width of the expression packet is realized by repeated drafting, and the extension of the latitudinal width is simple and easy to realize; (6) the face bag fabric is suitable for selecting thicker yarn counts and smaller warp and weft density.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic structural view of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic structural diagram of a first pattern plate of the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a schematic structural diagram of a second pattern plate of the present invention;
FIG. 4 is a schematic structural diagram of a third pattern plate of the present invention;
fig. 5 is a schematic structural diagram of a fourth pattern plate of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below so that those skilled in the art can better understand the advantages and features of the present invention, and thus the scope of the present invention will be more clearly defined. The embodiments described herein are only a few embodiments of the present invention, rather than all embodiments, and all other embodiments that can be derived by one of ordinary skill in the art without inventive faculty based on the embodiments described herein are intended to fall within the scope of the present invention.
Examples
1. The product design of the invention is as follows:
(1) design of pattern
The rabbit expression packages are selected, the number of the rabbit expression packages is 8, the outlines of the expression packages are the same, and the expressions are different. In common words: the eyes are the window of the soul, and the change of the facial expression bag is mainly embodied on the eyes and the mouth shape. As shown in fig. 1: the 8 facial expression bags are divided into a left group and a right group, the left group is a group from top to bottom and sequentially shows joy, anger, sadness and hot, the right group is a group from top to bottom and sequentially shows sour, sweet, bitter and hot, and each group of facial expression bags are left-right symmetrical patterns.
(2) Design of color
The white warp yarns and the white weft yarns are interwoven to form a ground color, the coffee flower warps and the white weft yarns are interwoven to weave the outline of the expression bag, and the pink flower warps form the warp float length to weave the expression of the fabric.
To highlight the striking effect of the facial expression bag, a yarn containing fluorescent fibers is used to attract the eye. The fluorescent fiber is prepared by mixing fluorescent powder into polyvinyl alcohol and performing melt spinning, and shows a specific color under the irradiation of sunlight. Only the expression part, namely the C warp, in the fabric is made of fluorescent fibers.
(3) Design of tissue
a. Fabric weave
The weave of the fabric is composed of a ground weave and a raised weave, wherein the ground weave is a plain weave, and the raised weave is a heavy flat weave. Because the number of weft yarn cycles of the expression bag is large, when the pattern is designed, the card pattern is divided into four parts according to the organization rule of the pattern, 106 wefts of each part, and when the corresponding expression bag needs to be woven, the corresponding card is called.
The figure 2 card is used to organize the top set of emoticons in figure 1, with the "favorite" emoticon on the left and the "sour" emoticon on the right. The fig. 3 card serves to organize the second set of emoticons in fig. 1, with the "anger" emoticon on the left and the "sweet" emoticon on the right. The figure 4 card is used to organize the third set of emoticon packets in figure 1, in which the left side is the "sadness" emoticon packet and the right side is the "bitterness" emoticon packet. The figure 5 card is used to organize the bottom set of the emoticons in figure 1, with the left side of the "happy" emoticon and the right side of the "spicy" emoticon.
In the second, third and fourth card strips, the picks 1-34 and 71-106 are the same as the corresponding card strips in the first card strip, and are not shown in the figure.
b. Designing the size of the pattern:
the size of the expression bag is determined by the cycle number of warp and weft yarns, the penetration number of each reed, the reed number and the like, and after the reed number and the penetration number of each reed are determined, the size of the pattern is determined by the cycle number of the warp and weft yarns.
When determining the number of warp cycles, the design steps are as follows: (1) the width of the pattern is determined. And preliminarily estimating the number of warp yarn cycles of the expression bag according to the width and the warp and weft density of the pattern. The width of the pattern of the facial expression packet in the fabric is 3.2cm, the warp density at the flowering position is 512 pieces/10 cm, and the number of the warp cycles of the facial expression packet is 512 pieces/3.2/10 pieces/164 pieces; (2) according to the pattern distribution of the pattern, the number of one-flower warp yarn cycles is preliminarily determined: the number of warp cycles of one expression packet is about 164, one expression packet group comprises a left expression packet and a right expression packet, each expression packet group is separated by 40 warp yarns, and the number of one jacquard yarn cycle is (164+40) × 2-408 warp yarns; (3) the calculated warp circulation is different from the actual requirement of the pattern, a weave diagram needs to be constructed according to the shape of the pattern, and the number of the warp yarns is corrected as follows: the actual number of roots was corrected to 416 roots/10 cm.
The same can be said for the number of weft cycles: (1) the height of the pattern is 3.4cm, the average weft density is 285 pieces/10 cm, and the number of one-flower weft yarn cycles is equal to the height of the expression bag, namely, the weft density/10 cm, namely, 285, 3.4/10, namely, 96 picks; (2) the upper and lower expression packages are separated by a plain weave, 14 picks are shared, and the number of weft cycles per flower is 96+ 14-110 picks; (3) the pattern structure was corrected to 106 picks.
(4) Selection of raw materials:
the number of the warp yarns is three, A, B the warp yarns adopt terylene/tencel blended yarns, the percentage of terylene is 65%, the percentage of tencel is 35%; and C, selecting fluorescent yarns as warp yarns. The weft yarns adopt tencel/long stapled cotton blended yarns, wherein the tencel accounts for 50 percent, and the long stapled cotton accounts for 50 percent. The polyester fiber in the fabric ensures that the fabric has excellent shape-preserving performance. The tencel fiber is soft, has luster and rigidity of silk and good shape-keeping performance, and is elegant and fashionable in appearance and improves the grade of the fabric. The long staple cotton is the best product in cotton fiber, has long fiber length and less yarn hairiness, and is commonly used for high-grade fabrics.
2. The production process of the invention is designed as follows:
(1) double-shaft weaving: the difference between the ground warp and the patterned warp is large, so the warp shrinkage difference is large, and the process design needs to use double-shaft weaving.
(2) Yarn specification: both warp and weft yarns are 14.6tex 2 twins. According to the application of the fabric and the pattern of the pattern, the warp and weft yarns are easy to select thicker yarns and have relatively lower warp and weft density. Because the yarn count is thin, the warp and weft density is high, the same warp and weft yarn circulation can reduce the pattern of the expression bag, the pattern is not large enough, if the size of the pattern needs to be increased, the circulation number of the warp and weft yarns needs to be increased, on one hand, the production difficulty is increased, on the other hand, the number of heald frames needs to be increased, and the design difficulty of the fabric is increased. If thinner warp and weft yarns are used, the fabric structure can be loosened and the appearance quality of the fabric is influenced due to the smaller warp and weft density. Therefore, the fabric selects 14.6tex 2 double-stranded wires and is matched with proper warp and weft density, so that the fabric has excellent appearance quality.
(3) Color matching circulation of warp yarns: expression package to between the selvedge and expression package, separate with the A yarn, the A yarn is white, and the B yarn is the coffee, and the C yarn is pink joyous color, and the look is arranged: 40A, (1B, 1A) × 12, (1B, 1C, 1A) × 12, (1B, 1A) × 24, (1B, 1C, 1A) × 12, (1B, 1A) × 12, and 208 warp cycles.
(4) The flower splitting process comprises the following steps: one warp cycle is 208, two warp groups are formed into two left and right expression packets, and the actual one-flower warp cycle is 416, and the whole width is 12 flowers. The expression bags are not suitable for splitting flowers, the symmetric and complete flower types are ensured during flower splitting, 40 yarns A are arranged between the left sides of the expression bags and the selvedge, two groups of expression bags are separated by 40 yarns A, 40 yarns A are added on the right side of the last group of expression bags to ensure the symmetric flower types during flower splitting, so that the number of the whole width warp yarns is 416 × 12+40 ends which are 5032 yarns, and 40 selvedge yarns are added, and the total number of the warp yarns is 5072.
(5) The drafting process comprises the following steps: penetrating the ground warp yarns with a plurality of warp yarn interweaving times on the front region by 1-2 pages of healds by using a zoning drafting method; 3-6 pages of healds, 8 th pages of healds and 10-16 th pages of healds are used for the outline of the expression package; the expression uses page 7 and page 9 healds.
(6) The design of the number of reeds is that in order to ensure that the fabric is smooth and compact in structure, the flower shape is clear in outline and plump and protruding, a flower reed process is used during reeding, namely different reeding numbers are used in different places of the fabric according to the requirements of the flower shape. The fabric adopts three reeding methods: 2 in is used at each reed of the ground tissue, 4 in is used at the outline of the expression bag, and 6 in is used at the expression.
(7) And (3) a machining process: the width of the fabric is 145cm, the total number of warps is 5072, and 40 edge yarns are arranged in the fabric. The warp density of the ground tissue after the machine is off is 237 pieces/10 cm, the warp density of the pattern forming position is 512 pieces/10 cm, the average warp density is 350 pieces/10 cm, the weft density of the machine is 285 pieces/10 cm, the warp weaving shrinkage is 8.7%, the weft weaving shrinkage is 7.2%, and the reed number is 110 teeth/10 cm. The number of warp cycles of one flower is 416, 224 yarns A, 144 yarns B, 48 yarns C, the total number of warp threads of the whole width 12 is 5072, the yarn A is used as the yarn A, wherein 224-12 +40 ends and 40 ends are 2768, the yarn B is 144-12 and 1728, and the yarn C is 48-12 and 576
3. The specific production process of the invention is as follows:
(1) warping:
and (3) warping by using a Beningge batch warping machine, wherein the warping speed is 700m/min, the bobbins are changed collectively, and no additional tension setting is performed. The warp yarn has three types, the yarn A is the ground warp yarn, 2768 are totally, the ground warp yarn is integrated into 4 shafts, and the warping matching shaft is 692 x 4; 1728 yarns B are integrated into 3 shafts, and the warping arrangement is 576 x 3; the number of C yarns is 576, which are individually made into shafts.
(2) Sizing:
and combining the warps by using an S432 slasher. The warp yarns are folded yarns, the warp and weft densities are low, the weft yarns are easy to tighten, a process that water is used for rinsing without sizing is adopted during sizing, hairiness is attached to the yarns through water, the clear shed is facilitated, entanglement among the warp yarns is reduced, size is not used, and the cost is saved.
A, combining 4 shafts of yarns into a ground shaft on a sizing machine; the yarns B and C are combined into a patterned shaft on a sizing machine, the number of the yarns C is small during combination, the yarns C are placed above the patterned shaft, the number of the yarns B is large, the yarns B are placed below the patterned shaft, and the yarns B and the yarns C are separated by a stranded wire for facilitating drafting.
(3) Drafting:
drafting sequence: (1, 2) x20, 2 in per reed, (3, 1, 3, 2) x2, (4, 1, 4, 2) x2, (5, 1, 5, 2) x2, 4 in per reed, (6, 7, 1, 6, 7, 2) x2, (8, 9, 1, 8, 9, 2) x2, (10, 7, 1, 10, 7, 2) x2, 6 in per reed, (11, 1, 11, 2) x2, (12, 1, 12, 2) x2, (13, 1, 13, 2) x4, (12, 1, 12, 2) x2, (11, 1, 11, 2) x2, 4 in per reed, (10, 7, 1, 10, 7, 2) x2, (8, 9, 1, 8, 9, 2) x2, (6, 7, 1, 6, 7, 2) x 5966, 2) x 634 in per reed, (1, 6, 2) x 634, 2) x2, 2) x 638, 9, 2) x 638, 2, (3, 1, 3, 2) x2, (4, 1, 4, 2) x2, (5, 1, 5, 2) x2, 4 in per reed, (6, 7, 1, 6, 7, 2) x2, (14, 9, 1, 14, 9, 2) x2, (15, 7, 1, 15, 7, 2) x2, 6 in per reed, (16, 1, 16, 2) x2, (12, 1, 12, 2) x2, (13, 1, 13, 2) x4, (12, 1, 12, 2) x2, (16, 1, 16, 2) x2, 4 in per reed, (15, 7, 1, 15, 7, 2) x2, (14, 9, 1, 14, 9, 2) x2, (6, 7, 1, 6, 7, 2) x2, 6 in per reed, (1, 5, 2) x 464, 3) x 364 in each reed, (6, 5, 2) x 364, 3, 2) x2 in each reed.
The healds of the pages 1 to 2 penetrate through the yarn A, the healds of the pages 3 to 6, the healds of the page 8, the healds of the pages 10 to 16 penetrate through the yarn B, and the healds of the pages 7 and the healds of the page 9 penetrate through the yarn C.
(4) Weaving
The fabric was woven by using a GA747 loom at a speed of 196 r/min.
Double-shaft weaving: the ground warp beam is arranged on a loom beam frame below the loom, and the warp beam is arranged on an auxiliary beam frame above the loom and controls warp feeding by using friction.
Medium back rest height: the basic weave of the fabric is a plain weave, but the weft yarns are easy to tighten due to the relatively low warp and weft density of the fabric, a middle-height back beam is used, the shed is convenient to be clear, and the height of the back beam is 95 mm.
Small double shed: the tension of the warp yarns is small, the opening is not easy to be clear, and the opening stroke of the warp yarn heald frame is increased during production, so that the warp yarns and the ground yarns are not on the same level to form a small double-layer shed, thereby reducing the adhesion among the warp yarns and facilitating the shed to be clear.
The invention applies the expression bag culture to the development of the fabric and provides a brand new design concept for vast fashionable fabric designers. When developing the rabbit facial expression bag fabric, mainly need to pay attention to following several points: (1) selecting a proper expression bag, wherein the structure of the expression bag is simple and concise and cannot be complicated, the lines are selected to be horizontal or vertical as much as possible, the oblique lines are few, the length of the oblique lines can increase the using number of heald frames, and therefore the design difficulty is increased; (2) the space between the two groups of surface packages can be adjusted by increasing or decreasing the number of the warp and weft yarns of the plain weave; (3) the ground organization of the expression bag needs to use a simple organization structure, and the simple organization structure can make the outline of the expression bag clear and obvious on one hand and save heald frames on the other hand, thereby facilitating the design of the pattern raising part; (4) the expression bag is highly designed. The height of the pattern is increased mainly by increasing the warp floating length, the longitudinal warp floating length is long, the expression bag is large, and the warp floating length is small, the expression bag is small. The fabric with long warp floats has large patterns, is easy to hook, has poor wear resistance and can be used for decorative fabrics; the length of the warp floats is small, the pattern structure is small and compact, the warp floats can be used for clothing, and the length of the warp floats can be determined after comprehensive balance according to the purpose of the fabric when the fabric is designed; (5) width design of the emoticon pattern: the width of the expression packet is realized by repeated drafting, and the extension of the latitudinal width is simple and easy to realize; (6) the face bag fabric is suitable for selecting thicker yarn counts and smaller warp and weft density.
Claims (5)
1. A design method and a production process of an expression bag fabric are characterized in that: the product was designed as follows:
(1) designing the pattern: selecting rabbit facial expression bags, wherein the rabbit facial expression bags are 8 in number, the facial expression bags have the same outline and different facial expressions, the 8 facial expression bags are divided into a left group and a right group, the left group is a group which is sequentially joyful, angry and griseful from top to bottom, the right group is a group which is sequentially sour, sweet, bitter and spicy from top to bottom, and each group of facial expression bags are bilaterally symmetrical patterns;
(2) designing colors: white warp yarns and white weft yarns are interwoven to form a ground color, coffee flower warps and the white weft yarns are interwoven to weave the outline of the expression bag, and pink flower warps form the length of the warps and weave the expression of the fabric;
in order to highlight the striking effect of the expression bag, yarns containing fluorescent fibers are used, and the fluorescent fibers are prepared by mixing fluorescent powder into polyvinyl alcohol and performing melt spinning on the mixed fluorescent powder and show specific colors under the shining of sunlight; only the expression part, namely the C warp, in the fabric is made of fluorescent fibers;
(3) designing the organization:
a. fabric weave: the weave of the fabric consists of a ground weave and a raised weave, wherein the ground weave is a plain weave, and the raised weave is a heavy flat weave;
the number of weft yarn cycles of the expression bag is large, so that when a pattern is designed, the card pattern is divided into four parts according to the organization rule of the pattern, 106 wefts are arranged in each part, and when the corresponding expression bag needs to be woven, the corresponding card is called;
b. designing the size of the pattern: the size of the expression bag is determined by the cycle number of warp and weft yarns, the penetration number of each reed, the reed number and the like, and after the reed number and the penetration number of each reed are determined, the size of the pattern is determined by the cycle number of the warp and weft yarns;
(4) selection of raw materials: the number of the warp yarns is three, A, B the warp yarns adopt terylene/tencel blended yarns, the percentage of terylene is 65%, the percentage of tencel is 35%; c, selecting fluorescent yarns as warp yarns; the weft yarns adopt tencel/long stapled cotton blended yarns, wherein the tencel accounts for 50 percent, and the long stapled cotton accounts for 50 percent.
2. The design method of the facial expression bag fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: when the pattern size is designed and the number of warp yarn cycles is determined, the design steps are as follows: (1) determining the width of the pattern: preliminarily estimating the number of warp cycles of the expression bag according to the width and the density of the warps, wherein the width of the pattern of the expression bag in the fabric is 3.2cm, the warp density at the flowering position is 512/10 cm, and the number of the warp cycles of the expression bag is 512/3.2/10 or 164; (2) according to the pattern distribution of the pattern, the number of one-flower warp yarn cycles is preliminarily determined: the number of warp cycles of one expression packet is 164, one expression packet group comprises a left expression packet and a right expression packet, each expression packet group is separated by 40 warp yarns, and the number of one jacquard yarn cycle is (164+40) × 2 ═ 408 warp yarns; (3) the calculated warp circulation is different from the actual requirement of the pattern, a weave diagram needs to be constructed according to the shape of the pattern, and the number of the warp yarns is corrected as follows: the actual number of roots was corrected to 416 roots/10 cm.
3. The design method of the facial expression bag fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: when the pattern size is designed, the number of weft yarn cycles is determined as follows: (1) the height of the pattern is 3.4cm, the average weft density is 285 pieces/10 cm, and the number of one-flower weft yarn cycles is equal to the height of the expression bag, namely, the weft density/10 cm, namely, 285, 3.4/10, namely, 96 picks; (2) the upper and lower expression packages are separated by a plain weave, 14 picks are shared, and the number of weft cycles per flower is 96+ 14-110 picks; (3) the pattern structure was corrected to 106 picks.
4. The design method of the facial expression bag fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the production process is designed as follows:
(1) double-shaft weaving: the difference between the ground warp and the patterned warp and the interweaving times is large, so the warp weaving shrinkage difference is large, and double-shaft weaving is needed during the process design;
(2) yarn specification: the warp and weft yarns are 14.6tex multiplied by 2 double-stranded yarns, and the appropriate warp and weft density is matched, so that the fabric has excellent appearance quality;
(3) color matching circulation of warp yarns: expression package to between the selvedge and expression package, separate with the A yarn, the A yarn is white, and the B yarn is the coffee, and the C yarn is pink joyous color, and the look is arranged: 40A, (1B, 1A) × 12, (1B, 1C, 1A) × 12, (1B, 1A) × 24, (1B, 1C, 1A) × 12, (1B, 1A) × 12, number of warp cycles 208;
(4) the flower splitting process comprises the following steps: the number of the warp cycles is 208, the two groups of warps form a left expression bag and a right expression bag, the number of the actual warp cycles of one flower is 416, and the whole width is 12 flowers; the expression bags are not suitable for splitting flowers, the symmetric and complete flower types are ensured during the flower splitting, 40 yarns A are arranged between the left sides of the expression bags and the selvedges, two groups of expression bags are separated by 40 yarns A, in order to ensure the symmetric flower types during the flower splitting, 40 yarns A are added on the right side of the last group of expression bags, so that the number of the whole width warp yarns is 416 × 12+40 ends which are 5032, and 40 selvedges are added, and the total number of the warp yarns is 5072;
(5) the drafting process comprises the following steps: penetrating the ground warp yarns with a plurality of warp yarn interweaving times on the front region by 1-2 pages of healds by using a zoning drafting method; 3-6 pages of healds, 8 th pages of healds and 10-16 th pages of healds are used for the outline of the expression package; the expression uses page 7 and page 9 healds;
(6) the design of the number of reeds is characterized in that in order to ensure that the fabric is smooth and compact in structure, clear in outline of flower shapes and plump and protruding in flower shapes, a flower reed process is used during reeding, namely different reeding numbers are used in different places of the fabric according to the requirements of the flower shapes; the fabric adopts three reeding methods: 2 in is used for each reed at the place of the ground organization, 4 in is used at the outline of the expression package, and 6 in is used at the expression place;
(7) and (3) a machining process: the width of the fabric is 145cm, the total number of warps is 5072, and 40 edge yarns are arranged; the warp density of the ground tissue after the machine is off is 237 pieces/10 cm, the warp density of the pattern forming position is 512 pieces/10 cm, the average warp density is 350 pieces/10 cm, the weft density of the machine is 285 pieces/10 cm, the warp knitting shrinkage is 8.7%, the weft knitting shrinkage is 7.2%, and the reed number is 110 teeth/10 cm; the number of warp cycles of one flower is 416, 224 yarns A, 144 yarns B, 48 yarns C, the total number of warp threads of the whole width 12 is 5072, and the yarns A are used as the edge yarns, wherein 224, 12, 40, the end of the yarn A is 2768, 144, 12, 1728, and 48, 12, 576.
5. The production process produced by the design method of the facial expression bag fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: the method comprises the following steps:
(1) warping:
selecting a Benning grid batch warping machine for warping, wherein the warping speed is 700m/min, performing collective bobbin replacement, and not performing additional tension setting; the warp yarn has three types, the yarn A is the ground warp yarn, 2768 are totally, the ground warp yarn is integrated into 4 shafts, and the warping matching shaft is 692 x 4; 1728 yarns B are integrated into 3 shafts, and the warping arrangement is 576 x 3; the number of the C yarns is 576, and the C yarns are independently formed into shafts;
(2) sizing:
an S432 slasher is selected to combine warps, the warps are folded yarns, the density of the warps and the wefts is low, the wefts are easy to tighten, and a process of water washing and no sizing is adopted during slashing; a, combining 4 shafts of yarns into a ground shaft on a sizing machine; the B yarns and the C yarns are combined into a patterned shaft on a sizing machine, the number of the C yarns is small during combination, the C yarns are placed above the B yarns and below the B yarns, and the B yarns and the C yarns are separated by split strands for facilitating drafting;
(3) drafting:
drafting sequence: (1, 2) x20, 2 in per reed, (3, 1, 3, 2) x2, (4, 1, 4, 2) x2, (5, 1, 5, 2) x2, 4 in per reed, (6, 7, 1, 6, 7, 2) x2, (8, 9, 1, 8, 9, 2) x2, (10, 7, 1, 10, 7, 2) x2, 6 in per reed, (11, 1, 11, 2) x2, (12, 1, 12, 2) x2, (13, 1, 13, 2) x4, (12, 1, 12, 2) x2, (11, 1, 11, 2) x2, 4 in per reed, (10, 7, 1, 10, 7, 2) x2, (8, 9, 1, 8, 9, 2) x2, (6, 7, 1, 6, 7, 2) x 5966, 2) x 634 in per reed, (1, 6, 2) x 634, 2) x2, 2) x 638, 9, 2) x 638, 2, (3, 1, 3, 2) x2, (4, 1, 4, 2) x2, (5, 1, 5, 2) x2, 4 in per reed, (6, 7, 1, 6, 7, 2) x2, (14, 9, 1, 14, 9, 2) x2, (15, 7, 1, 15, 7, 2) x2, 6 in per reed, (16, 1, 16, 2) x2, (12, 1, 12, 2) x2, (13, 1, 13, 2) x4, (12, 1, 12, 2) x2, (16, 1, 16, 2) x2, 4 in per reed, (15, 7, 1, 15, 7, 2) x2, (14, 9, 1, 14, 9, 2) x2, (6, 7, 1, 6, 7, 2) x2, 6 in per reed, (1, 5, 2) x 464, 3) x 394 in per reed, (6, 5, 2) x2, 3, 2) x 2;
the heald of 1 to 2 pages penetrates through the yarn A, the heald of 3 to 6 pages, the heald of 8 th page, the heald of 10 to 16 pages penetrates through the yarn B, and the heald of 7 th page and the heald of 9 th page penetrate through the yarn C;
(4) weaving:
weaving by using a GA747 weaving machine, wherein the speed of the weaving machine is 196 r/min;
double-shaft weaving: the ground warp beam is arranged on a loom beam frame below the loom, and the warp beam is arranged on an auxiliary beam frame above the loom and controls warp feeding by using friction;
medium back rest height: the basic weave of the fabric is a plain weave, but the weft yarns are easy to tighten due to the relatively low warp and weft density of the fabric, a middle-height back beam is used, the shed is convenient to be clear, and the height of the back beam is 95 mm;
small double shed: the tension of the warp yarns is small, the opening is not easy to be clear, and the opening stroke of the warp yarn heald frame is increased during production, so that the warp yarns and the ground yarns are not on the same level to form a small double-layer shed, thereby reducing the adhesion among the warp yarns and facilitating the shed to be clear.
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