CN108653150A - 一种防晒抗衰老修复乳液及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种防晒抗衰老修复乳液及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN108653150A CN108653150A CN201810809297.4A CN201810809297A CN108653150A CN 108653150 A CN108653150 A CN 108653150A CN 201810809297 A CN201810809297 A CN 201810809297A CN 108653150 A CN108653150 A CN 108653150A
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Abstract
本发明的目的是提供一种具有极佳的抗氧化抗衰老功效，以及突出的紫外线广谱防护作用，对皮肤温和，稳定性高，有良好的爽滑润湿感的防晒抗衰老修复乳液及其制备方法。本发明防晒抗衰老修复乳液，由以下重量份数的原料制成：纯净水110～120份、辛烯基琥珀酸淀粉钠1～1.5份、黄原胶0.6～0.8份、抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠2～2.5份、月桂酰基肌氨酸钠5～6份、葡庚糖酸內酯0.3～0.5份、杏仁油8～10份、玫瑰花油4～5份、双丙甘醇3～4份、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯3～4份、纳米二氧化钛5～6份、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物5～6份、桃红侧耳提取物3～4份、马齿笕提取物3～4份。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于生物与化妆品技术领域，具体涉及一种防晒抗衰老修复乳液及其制备方法。
背景技术
清除自由基类化妆品可以按照组成要素的不同分成两类：第一类是物理抗氧化剂，第二类是活性抗氧化剂。物理抗氧化剂可以维持化妆品性能的稳定，而活性抗氧化剂可以减缓皮肤衰老，提高皮肤的活性。一般来说，活性抗氧化剂是由维生素、硫酸锌、绿茶等物质构成的，这些物质都具有防护皮肤的效用。以维生素E为例，维生素E可以提升皮肤的润滑度，削弱紫外线的辐射，帮助皮肤快速消炎。以维生素C为例，维生素C可以提高皮肤的渗透能力，减轻皮肤暗沉的问题。细胞修复类化妆品的各组成要素可以延缓皮肤的老化。以维生素A为例，维生素A可以促进皮肤对化妆品中营养物质的吸收，保持皮肤的水润。以胶原蛋白为例，胶原蛋白可以提高皮肤的弹性，减少皮肤的皱纹，让皮肤保持透亮和光泽。
防晒成分通常分为化学性（含紫外线吸收剂）和物理性（含紫外线散乱剂）两种。化学性防晒成分通常为皮肤组织所吸收，由人体代谢。具体是指让防晒品中的化学成份进入皮肤角质，经皮肤吸收后，跟紫外线产生交互作用，使其转变为无害的能量，故称为紫外线吸收剂。因为是在皮肤上发生化学反应，所以对皮肤有一定的刺激。如辛-甲氧肉桂酸、辛-水杨酸、对-胺基苯甲酸、二苯甲酮-3。物理性防晒成分通常停留在皮肤表面，不会被吸收，也不由身体代谢。具体是指利用防晒品中的粒子，阻挡、反射或散射掉紫外线，使到达皮肤的紫外线量得以减少。因为不发生化学反应，所以对皮肤较温和。但弱点是如涂得较厚，皮肤看起来容易泛白，不太自然。如二氧化钛、氧化锌。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种具有极佳的抗氧化抗衰老功效，以及突出的紫外线广谱防护作用，对皮肤温和，稳定性高，有良好的爽滑润湿感的防晒抗衰老修复乳液及其制备方法。
本发明防晒抗衰老修复乳液，由以下重量份数的原料制成：纯净水110～120份、辛烯基琥珀酸淀粉钠1～1.5份、黄原胶0.6～0.8份、抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠2～2.5份、月桂酰基肌氨酸钠5～6份、葡庚糖酸內酯0.3～0.5份、杏仁油8～10份、玫瑰花油4～5份、双丙甘醇3～4份、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯3～4份、纳米二氧化钛5～6份、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物5～6份、桃红侧耳提取物3～4份、马齿笕提取物3～4份。
作为优化，该防晒抗衰老修复乳液，由以下重量份数的原料制成：纯净水115份、辛烯基琥珀酸淀粉钠1.2份、黄原胶0.75份、抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠2.3份、月桂酰基肌氨酸钠5.5份、葡庚糖酸內酯0.4份、杏仁油9份、玫瑰花油4.5份、双丙甘醇3.5份、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯3.5份、纳米二氧化钛5.8份、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物5.2份、桃红侧耳提取物3.5份、马齿笕提取物3.5份。
制备该防晒抗衰老修复乳液的方法，包括以下步骤：
(1)将所述重量份数的纯净水、辛烯基琥珀酸淀粉钠、黄原胶混合，加热至50～55℃，搅拌均匀，然后加入所述重量份数的抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠、月桂酰基肌氨酸钠、葡庚糖酸內酯，搅拌均匀，得物料A；
(2) 将所述重量份数的纳米二氧化钛、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物、桃红侧耳提取物、马齿笕提取物混合均匀得物料B；
(3)将所述重量份数的杏仁油、玫瑰花油、双丙甘醇、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯，加热至75～80℃，搅拌均匀，待降温到55～60℃，将物料A加入，进行匀质乳化；待降温到40～45℃，加入物料B，进行二次匀质乳化，冷却出料，即得。
本发明中，马齿笕提取物作为舒缓抗敏剂，主要用于抗过敏和抗外界对皮肤的各种刺激作用。双丙甘醇作保湿剂和溶剂使用。辛烯基琥珀酸淀粉钠作为乳化剂、稳定剂和增稠剂。山梨坦橄榄油酸酯作为乳化剂、分散剂、乳化稳定剂应用。黄原胶作为增稠剂乳化稳定剂。月桂酰基肌氨酸钠是氨基酸类阴离子表面活性剂，同时还具有杀菌和减缓刺激的作用。葡庚糖酸內酯作为防腐剂和螯合剂使用。杏仁油的成分包含多种维生素A1、B2、D、E、蛋白质、脂肪酸，其中丰富的多聚不饱和脂肪酸，让甜杏仁油具有超强的滋养皮肤和舒缓敏感的作用。玫瑰花油是护肤精油中比较有效的一种精油，它集美白、保湿、淡化色斑和收缩毛孔等多种效果于一身。抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠是一种稳定的维生素C衍生物，是有效的抗氧化剂和美白祛斑剂。
纳米二氧化钛，主要用作于物理防晒剂、粉底等系列产品中，纳米二氧化钛在防晒中主要是作为UVB波段的物理防晒成分去阻挡紫外线的。可选用江苏河海NT-200A化妆品用二氧化钛。罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物具有防紫外线和修复肌肤的作用，可以采用以下方法获得：将白寇干燥后粉碎，过80目筛，按料液比1:5同纯净水混合，在80℃保持一小时；过滤得白寇提取液；将白寇提取液和玉米粉按重量比10:1混合获得培养液；将活化培养的罗伊氏乳杆菌菌种以1％的量接种于培养液中，37℃转摇培养72 h得到发酵液。将发酵液用超声波处理20min、超声功率250W、超声温度60℃，然后真空旋转蒸发浓缩，在浓缩液中加入4倍85％乙醇，醇沉24 h，用离心机5O00dmin的转速离心10min，取上清液于50～60℃电热真空干燥箱中烘干，获得提取物。罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物同纳米二氧化钛协同使用，具有对UVB波段和UVA波段中长波紫外线的广谱防护作用。
桃红侧耳提取物可以有效地抑制弹性蛋白酶的活性，从而起到增强皮肤弹性，减少皱纹及色素沉着，延缓皮肤衰老等作用。可以通过以下方法提取：将桃红侧耳(Pleruotussalmoneostramineus L. Vass.)微粉碎过120～200目筛；将桃红侧耳粉置入浸提罐中，按照料液比1:20加入体积浓度为80％的乙醇，于55～60℃温度下循环浸提2～3h，然后8000r/min离心10分钟，取上清液，减压浓缩，经低温干燥，即得。
抑制弹性蛋白酶试验：弹性蛋白酶（Elastase）会使皮肤真皮中支撑皮肤结构的弹性蛋白被过度的降解，从而使皮肤产生皱纹、松弛无弹性等衰老症状。采用分光光度法测定对弹性蛋白酶的抑制率。以刚果红-弹性蛋白为底物，弹性蛋白被酶分解后，刚果红会脱落，测定溶液中刚果红的含量以表征酶活性。三角烧瓶中加入刚果红-弹性蛋白及硼酸缓冲溶液，置于37℃水浴中预热10 min，然后加入不同浓度的试验溶液及0.2 mg/mL弹性蛋白酶溶液，具体见表1。
将上述反应体系置于37℃恒温水浴振荡器中振摇20min，立即加入5.0mLpH6.0磷酸缓冲溶液混合终止反应，于5000r/min下离心15min。准确吸取上清液2.0 mL，加入pH8.8硼酸缓冲液和pH 6.0磷酸缓冲液等量混合液2.0 mL，充分摇匀并于495 nm测定其吸光度，抑制率计算公式如下：抑制率=（1-（A1 -A2）/（B1 -B2））×100%。实验结果见图1可见桃红侧耳提取物对弹性蛋白酶的IC50值为1.73 mg/mL，说明桃红侧耳提取物对弹性蛋白酶抑制作用明显。
本发明美白保湿紧致抗皱面霜中，杏仁油、玫瑰花油、桃红侧耳提取物和抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠一起，组成皮肤营养和修复系统，具有极佳的抗氧化抗衰老功效。罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物同纳米二氧化钛协同使用，具有对UVB波段和UVA波段中长波紫外线的广谱防护作用。双丙甘醇作保湿剂，马齿笕提取物具有抗过敏和抗皮肤刺激作用。辛烯基琥珀酸淀粉钠、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯、黄原胶、月桂酰基肌氨酸钠、葡庚糖酸內酯组成的乳液体系，对皮肤温和，稳定性高，有良好的爽滑润湿感。
附图说明
图1对弹性蛋白酶抑制作用随浓度变化图。
具体实施方式
下面给出的实施例拟对本发明作进一步说明，但不能理解为是对本发明保护范围的限制，本领域技术人员根据本发明内容对本发明的一些非本质的改进和调整，仍属于本发明的保护范围。
实施例1：防晒抗衰老修复乳液的制备方法包括以下步骤：
(1)将纯净水115份、辛烯基琥珀酸淀粉钠1.2份、黄原胶0.75份混合，加热至50～55℃，搅拌均匀，然后加入抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠2.3份、月桂酰基肌氨酸钠5.5份、葡庚糖酸內酯0.4份，搅拌均匀，得物料A；
(2) 将纳米二氧化钛5.8份、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物5.2份、桃红侧耳提取物3.5份、马齿笕提取物3.5份混合均匀得物料B；
(3)将杏仁油9份、玫瑰花油4.5份、双丙甘醇3.5份、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯3.5份，加热至75～80℃，搅拌均匀，待降温到55～60℃，将物料A加入，进行匀质乳化，搅拌转速为3000～3500r/min，时间8～12 min；待降温到40～45℃，加入物料B，进行二次匀质乳化，搅拌转速为800～1200r/min，时间5～8min；冷却出料，即得。
实施例2：防晒抗衰老修复乳液的制备方法包括以下步骤：
(1)将纯净水110份、辛烯基琥珀酸淀粉钠1份、黄原胶0.6份混合，加热至50～55℃，搅拌均匀，然后加入抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠2份、月桂酰基肌氨酸钠5份、葡庚糖酸內酯0.3份，搅拌均匀，得物料A；
(2) 将纳米二氧化钛5份、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物5份、桃红侧耳提取物3份、马齿笕提取物3份混合均匀得物料B；
(3)将杏仁油8份、玫瑰花油4份、双丙甘醇3份、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯3份，加热至75～80℃，搅拌均匀，待降温到55～60℃，将物料A加入，进行匀质乳化，搅拌转速为3000～3500r/min，时间8～12 min；待降温到40～45℃，加入物料B，进行二次匀质乳化，搅拌转速为800～1200r/min，时间5～8min；冷却出料，即得。
实施例3：防晒抗衰老修复乳液的制备方法包括以下步骤：
(1)将纯净水120份、辛烯基琥珀酸淀粉钠1.5份、黄原胶0.8份混合，加热至50～55℃，搅拌均匀，然后加入抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠2.5份、月桂酰基肌氨酸钠6份、葡庚糖酸內酯0.5份，搅拌均匀，得物料A；
(2) 将纳米二氧化钛6份、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物6份、桃红侧耳提取物4份、马齿笕提取物4份混合均匀得物料B；
(3)将杏仁油10份、玫瑰花油5份、双丙甘醇4份、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯4份，加热至75～80℃，搅拌均匀，待降温到55～60℃，将物料A加入，进行匀质乳化，搅拌转速为3000～3500r/min，时间8～12 min；待降温到40～45℃，加入物料B，进行二次匀质乳化，搅拌转速为800～1200r/min，时间5～8min；冷却出料，即得。
对比例1：乳液的制备方法包括以下步骤：
(1)将纯净水115份、辛烯基琥珀酸淀粉钠1.2份、黄原胶0.75份混合，加热至50～55℃，搅拌均匀，然后加入抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠2.3份、月桂酰基肌氨酸钠5.5份、葡庚糖酸內酯0.4份，搅拌均匀，得物料A；
(2) 将纳米二氧化钛5.8份、桃红侧耳提取物3.5份、马齿笕提取物3.5份混合均匀得物料B；
(3)将杏仁油9份、玫瑰花油4.5份、双丙甘醇3.5份、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯3.5份，加热至75～80℃，搅拌均匀，待降温到55～60℃，将物料A加入，进行匀质乳化，搅拌转速为3000～3500r/min，时间8～12 min；待降温到40～45℃，加入物料B，进行二次匀质乳化，搅拌转速为800～1200r/min，时间5～8min；冷却出料，即得。
对比例2：乳液的制备方法包括以下步骤：
(1)将纯净水115份、辛烯基琥珀酸淀粉钠1.2份、黄原胶0.75份混合，加热至50～55℃，搅拌均匀，然后加入抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠2.3份、月桂酰基肌氨酸钠5.5份、葡庚糖酸內酯0.4份，搅拌均匀，得物料A；
(2) 将桃红侧耳提取物3.5份、马齿笕提取物3.5份混合均匀得物料B；
(3)将杏仁油9份、玫瑰花油4.5份、双丙甘醇3.5份、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯3.5份，加热至75～80℃，搅拌均匀，待降温到55～60℃，将物料A加入，进行匀质乳化，搅拌转速为3000～3500r/min，时间8～12 min；待降温到40～45℃，加入物料B，进行二次匀质乳化，搅拌转速为800～1200r/min，时间5～8min；冷却出料，即得。
防晒效果评价：紫外检测方法，取样品1 g均匀涂抹在3M胶带纸上，放置37℃温箱中20min，取出贴附于石英比色皿透光侧，WFZUV2102 PC型紫外分光光度计(尤尼柯仪器有限公司)检测在280 nm～400nm波段的紫外吸收值。每隔10 nm紫外波长获得一个紫外吸收值。某波段的紫外吸收值为该波段内各点的算术平均紫外吸收A值。通过表2可见，采用本发明清爽舒缓隔离防晒乳的实施例1-3紫外线防护效果显然优于对比例1-2，同时具有UVB波段和UVA波段中长波紫外线的优异防护效果。
对比例3：乳液的制备方法包括以下步骤：
(1)将纯净水115份、辛烯基琥珀酸淀粉钠1.2份、黄原胶0.75份混合，加热至50～55℃，搅拌均匀，然后加入抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠2.3份、月桂酰基肌氨酸钠5.5份、葡庚糖酸內酯0.4份，搅拌均匀，得物料A；
(2) 将纳米二氧化钛5.8份、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物5.2份、马齿笕提取物3.5份混合均匀得物料B；
(3)将杏仁油9份、玫瑰花油4.5份、双丙甘醇3.5份、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯3.5份，加热至75～80℃，搅拌均匀，待降温到55～60℃，将物料A加入，进行匀质乳化，搅拌转速为3000～3500r/min，时间8～12 min；待降温到40～45℃，加入物料B，进行二次匀质乳化，搅拌转速为800～1200r/min，时间5～8min；冷却出料，即得。
对比例4：乳液的制备方法包括以下步骤：
(1)将纯净水115份、辛烯基琥珀酸淀粉钠1.2份、黄原胶0.75份混合，加热至50～55℃，搅拌均匀，然后加入月桂酰基肌氨酸钠5.5份、葡庚糖酸內酯0.4份，搅拌均匀，得物料A；
(2) 将纳米二氧化钛5.8份、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物5.2份、桃红侧耳提取物3.5份、马齿笕提取物3.5份混合均匀得物料B；
(3)将杏仁油9份、玫瑰花油4.5份、双丙甘醇3.5份、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯3.5份，加热至75～80℃，搅拌均匀，待降温到55～60℃，将物料A加入，进行匀质乳化，搅拌转速为3000～3500r/min，时间8～12 min；待降温到40～45℃，加入物料B，进行二次匀质乳化，搅拌转速为800～1200r/min，时间5～8min；冷却出料，即得。
对比例5：乳液的制备方法包括以下步骤：
(1)将纯净水115份、辛烯基琥珀酸淀粉钠1.2份、黄原胶0.75份混合，加热至50～55℃，搅拌均匀，然后加入抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠2.3份、月桂酰基肌氨酸钠5.5份、葡庚糖酸內酯0.4份，搅拌均匀，得物料A；
(2) 将纳米二氧化钛5.8份、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物5.2份、桃红侧耳提取物3.5份、马齿笕提取物3.5份混合均匀得物料B；
(3)将甘油13.5份、双丙甘醇3.5份、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯3.5份，加热至75～80℃，搅拌均匀，待降温到55～60℃，将物料A加入，进行匀质乳化，搅拌转速为3000～3500r/min，时间8～12 min；待降温到40～45℃，加入物料B，进行二次匀质乳化，搅拌转速为800～1200r/min，时间5～8min；冷却出料，即得。
对比例6：乳液的制备方法包括以下步骤：
(1)将纯净水115份、辛烯基琥珀酸淀粉钠1.2份、黄原胶0.75份混合，加热至50～55℃，搅拌均匀，然后加入月桂酰基肌氨酸钠5.5份、葡庚糖酸內酯0.4份，搅拌均匀，得物料A；
(2) 将纳米二氧化钛5.8份、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物5.2份、马齿笕提取物3.5份混合均匀得物料B；
(3)将甘油13.5份、双丙甘醇3.5份、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯3.5份，加热至75～80℃，搅拌均匀，待降温到55～60℃，将物料A加入，进行匀质乳化，搅拌转速为3000～3500r/min，时间8～12 min；待降温到40～45℃，加入物料B，进行二次匀质乳化，搅拌转速为800～1200r/min，时间5～8min；冷却出料，即得。
抗衰抗皱测试：共选取120名志愿者，分为6组，分别采用实施例1和对比例3-6，空白组，测试部位为两侧脸颊和眼角，每天使用2次，洁面后使用；在使用化妆品前1天，使用后30d，使用MicroSkinII 多功能皮肤镜图像分析系统测定皮肤平均粗糙度和皱纹平均深度数值变化，计算平均值，见表3。通过变化率可见，使用本发明实施例1相对于对比例3-6，组分之间协同作用突出，皮肤粗糙和皮肤皱纹深度值显著改善。
Claims (3)
1.一种防晒抗衰老修复乳液，其特征在于由以下重量份数的原料制成：纯净水110～120份、辛烯基琥珀酸淀粉钠1～1.5份、黄原胶0.6～0.8份、抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠2～2.5份、月桂酰基肌氨酸钠5～6份、葡庚糖酸內酯0.3～0.5份、杏仁油8～10份、玫瑰花油4～5份、双丙甘醇3～4份、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯3～4份、纳米二氧化钛5～6份、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物5～6份、桃红侧耳提取物3～4份、马齿笕提取物3～4份。
2.根据权利要求1所述的防晒抗衰老修复乳液，其特征在于由以下重量份数的原料制成：纯净水115份、辛烯基琥珀酸淀粉钠1.2份、黄原胶0.75份、抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠2.3份、月桂酰基肌氨酸钠5.5份、葡庚糖酸內酯0.4份、杏仁油9份、玫瑰花油4.5份、双丙甘醇3.5份、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯3.5份、纳米二氧化钛5.8份、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物5.2份、桃红侧耳提取物3.5份、马齿笕提取物3.5份。
3.一种制备以上任一项权利要求所述防晒抗衰老修复乳液的方法，其特征在于包括以下步骤：
(1)将所述重量份数的纯净水、辛烯基琥珀酸淀粉钠、黄原胶混合，加热至50～55℃，搅拌均匀，然后加入所述重量份数的抗坏血酸磷酸酯钠、月桂酰基肌氨酸钠、葡庚糖酸內酯，搅拌均匀，得物料A；
(2) 将所述重量份数的纳米二氧化钛、罗伊氏乳杆菌发酵白寇提取物、桃红侧耳提取物、马齿笕提取物混合均匀得物料B；
(3)将所述重量份数的杏仁油、玫瑰花油、双丙甘醇、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯，加热至75～80℃，搅拌均匀，待降温到55～60℃，将物料A加入，进行匀质乳化；待降温到40～45℃，加入物料B，进行二次匀质乳化，冷却出料，即得。
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