CN108588961A - Production technology of the single side along hair thin type fabric - Google Patents
Production technology of the single side along hair thin type fabric Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN108588961A CN108588961A CN201810233837.9A CN201810233837A CN108588961A CN 108588961 A CN108588961 A CN 108588961A CN 201810233837 A CN201810233837 A CN 201810233837A CN 108588961 A CN108588961 A CN 108588961A
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- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- fiber
- yarn
- thin type
- hair
- single side
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
- D06C11/00—Teasing, napping or otherwise roughening or raising pile of textile fabrics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
- D06P1/52—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders using compositions containing synthetic macromolecular substances
- D06P1/5264—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions involving only unsaturated carbon-to-carbon bonds
- D06P1/5292—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions involving only unsaturated carbon-to-carbon bonds containing Si-atoms
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/34—Material containing ester groups
- D06P3/52—Polyesters
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
- D10B2211/02—Wool
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
- D10B2211/20—Protein-derived artificial fibres
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of single sides along the production technology of hair thin type fabric, including processing step successively as follows:Prepare single side along hair thin type fabric raw material, including weight percent be 30% polyester fiber, 35% quality count be 70S Australia's wool top fiber and 35% quality count be 66S sheep Down Fiber;By Australia's wool top fiber that polyester fiber, quality count are 70S and the sheep Down Fiber that quality count is 66S successively by the 20/1 public slubbing yarn propped up is made by open-end spinning with after hair, feather plucking, mixed hair, cotton carding, drafting;Warping is carried out to gained yarn, wherein weft yarn and warp thread are all made of the blended manufactured 20/1 public slubbing yarn propped up;The yarn being spun into is weaved on rapier loom by the way of single-warp single-abb;Tape edge is passed sequentially through to the cloth knitted, fulling, braying, dehydration, drying, decatizing, fluffing, bur, drying, scalds and cuts and finished product is made in spotting.The present invention is suitable for high-grade fabric, panel knot, and pilling grade reaches 4~5 grades, can wear next to the skin and strength is high.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to single sides along the production technology of hair thin type fabric.
Background technology
As the improvement of people's living standards, the requirement for taking, the dicoration of clothes etc. is higher and higher, cashmere sheep
The high-grade raw material such as hair is increasingly used in weaving and the production of cloth, but the pilling of cashmere is always one and is difficult to for a long time
It solves the problems, such as, although product on the market is attained by 3 grades of standard of national regulation substantially at present, also as consumer
It is to be reluctant to see that such flaw occur in the clothes of such costliness;If worn and uncomfortable, sheep in addition, most of cashmere sweaters are personal
It is also a problem that Down Fiber strength is insufficient.Authorization Notice No. is the patent of 1020 61550B of CN:Gao Zhisi cashmere is along hair overcoat
And preparation method thereof, the overcoating uses pure natural fiber spun silk and sheep down as raw material, utilizes Italian OERLIKON public affairs
The FOR combing machine for furs of production and the FST350 spinning frames of GAVDINO companies of Italy production are taken charge of, 30s/1 single thread, weaving warp are spun into
Yarn uses this 30s/1 single thread, and weft yarn is using this 30s/1 single thread and the 30s/2 of twirl, and ground tissue is using 1/2 tissue, raw material weight hundred
Distribution ratio:50% spun silk and 50% cashmere.The method includes following processing steps:Dyeing, mixed hair, carding, spun yarn, winder,
And twist, weave, braying, fulling, dehydration, drying, fluffing, cropping, wet brush, hot light and decatizing.It uses spun silk blended with cashmere,
Although strength may be taken on a new look, the flaw of pilling still has, and can not wear next to the skin.
Invention content
It is an object of the present invention to overcome defect existing in the prior art, production of the single side along hair thin type fabric is provided
Technique can be suitably used for high-grade fabric, and panel knot, pilling grade reaches 4~5 grades, can wear next to the skin and strength is high, fungi-proofing insect prevention
In excellent effect.
To achieve the above object, the technical scheme is to design a kind of single sides along the production technology of hair thin type fabric,
Including processing step successively as follows:
S1:Prepare raw material of the single side along hair thin type fabric, including weight percent is 30% polyester fiber, 35% product
Australia's wool top fiber that matter number is 70S and 35% quality count be 66S sheep Down Fiber;
S2:It is 66S by Australia's wool top fiber and quality count that unstained or stained polyester fiber, quality count are 70S
Sheep Down Fiber successively by with slubbing that 20/1 public branch is made up after hair, feather plucking, mixed hair, cotton carding, drafting of open-end spinning
Yarn;Relative humidity 50%~65%, 25 DEG C~30 DEG C of temperature are controlled in spinning technological process;
S3:Warping is carried out to yarn obtained by S2, wherein weft yarn and warp thread are all made of the blended manufactured 20/1 public slubbing propped up
Yarn;The yarn being spun into is weaved on rapier loom by the way of single-warp single-abb, and upper machine weft count is 180/10cm, total to pass through
Radical is 3273, porter 58, and it is 3 to wear number, and upper machine reed width is 188cm, and fabric grammes per square metre is 368g/m, and finished product grammes per square metre is
350g/m;
S4:Tape edge, fulling, braying, dehydration, drying, decatizing, fluffing, bur, baking are passed sequentially through to the cloth that S3 is knitted
It is dry, scald and cut and finished product is made in spotting.(exist in the bur, that is, raising teasel namely technique and fluff twice) uses this work
Single side over coating made of skill can be suitably used for high-grade fabric, panel knot, and extremely smooth, general aurora, feel is very thin, not plentiful,
The vision feel of wool is strong, and hand is touched without crude sense.
Further technical solution is, in S2 steps, addition and crude oil and antistatic agent in wool blending step.
Further technical solution is, before the fulling process in S4 steps, by cloth be immersed in 20 DEG C to 35 DEG C plus
Enter in the warm water of detergent after 7min fulling again, cleaning after 2min is immersed in softening agent after air-drying and air-dried after 25min, is then existed
It is dried at a temperature of 80 DEG C to 110 DEG C;The preparation method of softening agent is:4%~8% is added in the water to 30 DEG C to 45 DEG C
Finishing agent, 2%~4% silicone softening agent, 6%~6.5% smooth agent adjust PH 5~6.By this processing, production
The anti-fluffing and anti-pilling grade of ready-made clothes reach 4~5 grades.
Further technical solution is, in the dyeing process in S2 steps, added in dye liquor sterilization finishing agent and
Moth proofing agent;It sterilizes finishing agent and finishing agent AV-990 is sterilized using organosilicon, dosage is the 0.6%~0.8% of fabric weight,
35 DEG C~55 DEG C of temperature, bath raio 15:1~20:1;Moth proofing agent use JF-86, dosage be fabric weight 0.5%~
0.6%.Fungicide uses AV-990, cation group in organosilicon polymer is grafted on to the surface of fiber, to skin
It is non-stimulated, it is safe and efficient;Moth proofing agent chooses JF-86, can be used with one-bath dyeing, insect prevention reaches international sheep in effect
More than hair office class standard two level, coloured light, the color fastness of treated sample are unchanged, stability is good, and washing fastness is good, can
Obtain persistent mothproof effect.
Further technical solution is, the sheep Down Fiber that quality count is 66S by 60%~80% sheep Down Fiber
It is formed with 20%~40% soybean fiber blended.Soybean protein fibre is to impregnate the Soybean Meal pressed the oil, then
The globulin in dregs of beans is isolated, then is purified, is grafted, is blended with itrile group high polymer and polyhydroxy polymer by auxiliary agent, be made one
Spinning forms after determining the protein spinning solution of concentration.Soybean fiber improves the fluffing of ready-made clothes with cashmere fiber after blended
Ball grade.
Further technical solution is that the sheep Down Fiber that quality count is 66S is fine by 20%~40% soybean protein
Dimension, 40%~70% sheep Down Fiber and 10%~20% silk fiber blended form.Tencel fiber, that is, Tencel fibers,
Its is environmentally protective, comfortable and easy to wear, and cellulose crystallite arranged in parallel makes its intensity very high on longitudinal direction, blended with cashmere
Afterwards, the smooth characteristic characteristic glutinous with cashmere China is complementary, and manufactured ready-made clothes is very suitable for wearing next to the skin, and compensates for cashmere
Strongly insufficient defect.
The advantages of the present invention are:High-grade face can be suitably used for using single side over coating made of this technique
Material, panel knot, extremely smooth, general aurora, feel is very thin, not plentiful, and the vision feel of wool is strong, and hand is touched without crude sense.Pilling etc.
Grade reaches 4~5 grades, can wear next to the skin and strength is high, excellent effect is stayed in fungi-proofing insect prevention;Microbial inoculum uses AV-990, by organosilicon
Cation group is grafted on the surface of fiber in polymer, non-stimulated to skin, safe and efficient;Moth proofing agent chooses JF-
86, it can be used with one-bath dyeing, insect prevention reaches International Wool Secretariat's classification standard two level or more in effect, treated sample
Coloured light, color fastness is unchanged, stability is good, and washing fastness is good, can get persistent mothproof effect.Soybean protein is fine
Dimension is to impregnate the Soybean Meal pressed the oil, the globulin in dregs of beans is then demultiplex out, then purify, passes through auxiliary agent and itrile group high polymer
With polyhydroxy polymer grafting, be blended, after certain density protein spinning solution is made spinning form.Soybean fiber and sheep
The fluffing ball grade of ready-made clothes is improved after Down Fiber is blended.Tencel fiber, that is, Tencel fibers, it is environmentally protective, comfortable and easy to wear,
Longitudinally upper cellulose crystallite arranged in parallel makes its intensity very high for it, with cashmere it is blended after, smooth characteristic and cashmere
The glutinous characteristic of China is complementary, and manufactured ready-made clothes is very suitable for wearing next to the skin, and compensates for the insufficient defect of cashmere strength.
Specific implementation mode
With reference to embodiment, the specific embodiment of the present invention is further described.Following embodiment is only used for more
Add and clearly demonstrate technical scheme of the present invention, and not intended to limit the protection scope of the present invention.
Embodiment one:
The present invention is production technology of the single side along hair thin type fabric, including processing step successively as follows:
S1:Prepare raw material of the single side along hair thin type fabric, including weight percent is 30% polyester fiber, 35% product
Australia's wool top fiber that matter number is 70S and 35% quality count be 66S sheep Down Fiber;
S2:It is 66S by Australia's wool top fiber and quality count that unstained or stained polyester fiber, quality count are 70S
Sheep Down Fiber successively by with slubbing that 20/1 public branch is made up after hair, feather plucking, mixed hair, cotton carding, drafting of open-end spinning
Yarn;Relative humidity 50%~65%, 25 DEG C~30 DEG C of temperature are controlled in spinning technological process;
S3:Warping is carried out to yarn obtained by S2, wherein weft yarn and warp thread are all made of the blended manufactured 20/1 public slubbing propped up
Yarn;The yarn being spun into is weaved on rapier loom by the way of single-warp single-abb, and upper machine weft count is 180/10cm, total to pass through
Radical is 3273, porter 58, and it is 3 to wear number, and upper machine reed width is 188cm, and fabric grammes per square metre is 368g/m, and finished product grammes per square metre is
350g/m;
S4:Tape edge, fulling, braying, dehydration, drying, decatizing, fluffing, bur, baking are passed sequentially through to the cloth that S3 is knitted
It is dry, scald and cut and finished product is made in spotting.
In S2 steps, addition and crude oil and antistatic agent in wool blending step.It, will before fulling process in S4 steps
Cloth is immersed in the warm water of 20 DEG C to 35 DEG C of addition detergent after 7min fulling again, cleaning after 2min, immersed after air-drying it is soft
It air-dries after 25min in soft liquid, is then dried at a temperature of 80 DEG C to 110 DEG C;The preparation method of softening agent is:To 30 DEG C extremely
In 45 DEG C of water be added 6 finishing agent, 3 silicone softening agent, 6%% smooth agent, adjust PH 6.In S2 steps
In dyeing process, sterilization finishing agent and moth proofing agent are added in dye liquor;Finishing agent is sterilized to arrange using organosilicon sterilization
Agent AV-990, dosage are the 0.8% of fabric weight, temperature 45, bath raio 15:1;It is to knit that moth proofing agent, which uses JF-86, dosage,
The 0.6% of object weight.Quality count is the sheep Down Fiber of 66S by 80% sheep Down Fiber and 20% soybean fiber
It is blended to form.
Embodiment two:
With being different only in that for embodiment one, quality count be 66S sheep Down Fiber by 20% soybean fiber,
70% sheep Down Fiber and 10% silk fiber blended form.
Embodiment three:
Preparation method with being different only in that for embodiment one, softening agent is:It is added 8% in the water to 30 DEG C to 45 DEG C
Finishing agent, 2% silicone softening agent, 6.5% smooth agent, adjust PH 5.Dosage is the 0.6%% of fabric weight, temperature
35 DEG C of degree, bath raio 20:1;It is the 0.5%% of fabric weight that moth proofing agent, which uses JF-86, dosage,.Quality count is 66S's
Sheep Down Fiber is formed by 60% sheep Down Fiber and 40% soybean fiber blended.
Antistatic agent described in this technique, detergent, finishing agent, silicone softening agent and smooth agent are existing dyeing and finishing
Auxiliary agent.
Comparative example one:
It is with the difference of embodiment one, the production technology of over coating is the first step:By wool fiber, polyester fiber and
Modal fibre dissipates fine dyeing respectively, then through abundant silver mixing, then passes through the yarn that open-end spinning mode is spun into 20/1 and 24/1
Line;Second step:Warping is weaved:The yarn being spun into the first step sets breadth as 185cm on rapier loom, density 304
× 300/10cm is weaved using 2/2 tied double weave up and down into High-count smooth double-faced wool cloth;Third walks:Final finishing, will
The cloth that second step has been weaved by base inspection, mending, reinspection, tape edge, braying, dehydration, fulling, eliminate, be dehydrated, turn width drying,
Decatizing, fluffing, cropping, squezzing, bur plucking, clot, drying, hot light, hot light cropping, decatizing and finished product is made at inspection technique.
The upper machine breadth of cloth may be set to 180~200cm, and the finished weight of cloth is 480~500g/m.Raw material in cloth uses
50wt% wool fibers, 40wt% polyester fibers are mutually mixed with 10wt% Modal fibres.
Comparative example two:
Be with the difference of comparative example one, the raw material in cloth using 40wt% wool fibers, 45wt% polyester fibers and
15wt% Modal fibres mutually mix.
Comparative example three:
Be with the difference of comparative example one, the raw material in cloth using 45wt% wool fibers, 40wt% polyester fibers and
15wt% Modal fibres mutually mix.
For ease of list, in following 3 parameter comparison sheets, comparative example is indicated with D, and embodiment is indicated with S.
The comparative situation of the physical index of each embodiment and comparative example is as follows:
The sample of embodiment and comparative example is detected, such as following table, according to AATCC127-2003 water-resistance:Hydrostatic pressing
Method and AATCC66 wrinkle recoveries angle test method:
Mothproof test to each embodiment, comparative example, such as following table:
The above is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, it is noted that for the ordinary skill people of the art
For member, without departing from the technical principles of the invention, several improvements and modifications can also be made, these improvements and modifications
Also it should be regarded as protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (6)
1. single side is along the production technology of hair thin type fabric, which is characterized in that including processing step successively as follows:
S1:Prepare raw material of the single side along hair thin type fabric, including weight percent is 30% polyester fiber, 35% quality branch
Australia's wool top fiber that number is 70S and 35% quality count be 66S sheep Down Fiber;
S2:By Australia's wool top fiber that unstained or stained polyester fiber, quality count are 70S and the silk floss that quality count is 66S
Cashmere fiber by open-end spinning with after hair, feather plucking, mixed hair, cotton carding, drafting successively by being made the 20/1 public slubbing yarn propped up;It spins
Relative humidity 50%~65%, 25 DEG C~30 DEG C of temperature are controlled in yarn process flow;
S3:Warping is carried out to yarn obtained by S2, wherein weft yarn and warp thread are all made of the blended manufactured 20/1 public slubbing yarn propped up;
The yarn being spun into is weaved on rapier loom by the way of single-warp single-abb, and upper machine weft count is 180/10cm, always through root
Number is 3273, porter 58, and it is 3 to wear number, and upper machine reed width is 188cm, and fabric grammes per square metre is 368g/m, and finished product grammes per square metre is 350g/
m;
S4:To the cloth that S3 is knitted pass sequentially through tape edge, fulling, braying, dehydration, drying, decatizing, fluffing, bur, drying,
It scalds and cuts and finished product is made in spotting.
2. single side as described in claim 1 is along the production technology of hair thin type fabric, which is characterized in that in the S2 steps,
Addition and crude oil and antistatic agent in wool blending step.
3. single side as claimed in claim 2 is along the production technology of hair thin type fabric, which is characterized in that the fulling in S4 steps
Before process, cloth is immersed in in the warm water of 20 DEG C to 35 DEG C of addition detergent after 7min fulling again, cleans, air-dry after 2min
It immerses in softening agent and is air-dried after 25min afterwards, then dried at a temperature of 80 DEG C to 110 DEG C;The preparation method of softening agent is:
Be added into 30 DEG C to 45 DEG C of water 4%~8% finishing agent, 2%~4% silicone softening agent, 6%~6.5% it is flat
Lubrication prescription adjusts PH 5~6.
4. single side as claimed in claim 3 is along the production technology of hair thin type fabric, which is characterized in that the dyeing in S2 steps
In process, sterilization finishing agent and moth proofing agent are added in dye liquor;Finishing agent is sterilized using organosilicon sterilization finishing agent AV-
990, dosage is the 0.6%~0.8% of fabric weight, 35 DEG C~55 DEG C of temperature, bath raio 15:1~20:1;Moth proofing agent is adopted
With JF-86, dosage is the 0.5%~0.6% of fabric weight.
5. single side as described in claim 1 is along the production technology of hair thin type fabric, which is characterized in that the quality count is
The sheep Down Fiber of 66S is formed by 60%~80% sheep Down Fiber and 20%~40% soybean fiber blended.
6. single side as described in claim 1 is along the production technology of hair thin type fabric, which is characterized in that the quality count is
The sheep Down Fiber of 66S is by 20%~40% soybean fiber, 40%~70% sheep Down Fiber and 10%~20%
Silk fiber blended form.
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CN201810233837.9A CN108588961A (en) | 2018-03-21 | 2018-03-21 | Production technology of the single side along hair thin type fabric |
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CN1142549A (en) * | 1996-06-03 | 1997-02-12 | 上海恒源祥绒线公司 | Pure goat knitting wool and production thereof |
CN1148645A (en) * | 1996-08-29 | 1997-04-30 | 江苏欧宝针纺制品有限公司 | Anti-bacterial mildew-proof anti-insect sheep's knitting wool and method for making knit goods thereof |
CN104178872A (en) * | 2014-07-11 | 2014-12-03 | 江阴市长泾花园毛纺织有限公司 | Light and thin roving high-count flat-coated tweed and production process |
CN105192957A (en) * | 2015-10-21 | 2015-12-30 | 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 | Cashmere silk woollen cloth and production process thereof |
CN106192132A (en) * | 2016-09-28 | 2016-12-07 | 阜新新溢达毛纺织有限公司 | A kind of half spinning double-side different color is along hair ripple and production technology thereof |
CN106757613A (en) * | 2016-12-30 | 2017-05-31 | 利郎(中国)有限公司 | A kind of ultra-thin half is spinning along hair list west material and its preparation technology |
-
2018
- 2018-03-21 CN CN201810233837.9A patent/CN108588961A/en active Pending
Patent Citations (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN1142549A (en) * | 1996-06-03 | 1997-02-12 | 上海恒源祥绒线公司 | Pure goat knitting wool and production thereof |
CN1148645A (en) * | 1996-08-29 | 1997-04-30 | 江苏欧宝针纺制品有限公司 | Anti-bacterial mildew-proof anti-insect sheep's knitting wool and method for making knit goods thereof |
CN104178872A (en) * | 2014-07-11 | 2014-12-03 | 江阴市长泾花园毛纺织有限公司 | Light and thin roving high-count flat-coated tweed and production process |
CN105192957A (en) * | 2015-10-21 | 2015-12-30 | 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 | Cashmere silk woollen cloth and production process thereof |
CN106192132A (en) * | 2016-09-28 | 2016-12-07 | 阜新新溢达毛纺织有限公司 | A kind of half spinning double-side different color is along hair ripple and production technology thereof |
CN106757613A (en) * | 2016-12-30 | 2017-05-31 | 利郎(中国)有限公司 | A kind of ultra-thin half is spinning along hair list west material and its preparation technology |
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Application publication date: 20180928 |
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