CN106521784A - Elastic knitted fabric and application thereof - Google Patents
Elastic knitted fabric and application thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN106521784A CN106521784A CN201510573385.5A CN201510573385A CN106521784A CN 106521784 A CN106521784 A CN 106521784A CN 201510573385 A CN201510573385 A CN 201510573385A CN 106521784 A CN106521784 A CN 106521784A
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Abstract
The invention discloses an elastic knitted fabric and application thereof. The fabric is formed by interweaving short fiber yarn with filament yarn, and the height of loops formed by the short fiber yarn is larger than that of loops formed by the filament yarn; in the part, formed by the short fiber yarn, of the fabric, the proportion of pores with the diameter of 100-150 micrometers ranges from 20% to 35%, and the proportion of pores with the diameter larger than 150 micrometers ranges from 5% to 20%. According to the elastic knitted fabric and application thereof, processing is easy, the elastic knitted fabric which has the soft handfeel, the good air permeability and the appearance characteristics of a natural linen fabric can be obtained, and the fabric can be used for making woman trousers or coats or the like.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of stretch knit fabric and application thereof, and in particular to knitting fabric of a kind of outward appearance with natural linen and favorable elasticity and application thereof.
Background technology
It is well known that flaxen fiber class fabric has excellent dry feeling and gas permeability, it is the first-selection of summer clothes.But there are many hydroxyls on the cellulose macromolecule for forming flaxen fiber, when fiber is stretched, after cellulose macromolecule or the basic structural unit degree of orientation improve or relative movement occur, new hydrogen bond can be re-formed on new position, after external force is removed, the interior rotation of unbroken hydrogen bond and molecule between fiber molecule, there is the trend for making system return back to original state, but the new hydrogen bond formed on new position has retardation, system is prevented from responding immediately to, form creep recovery, and creep recovery very little, also so-called permanent deformation has been occurred as soon as, thus there is easily corrugation in flaxen fiber class fabric, the problem of deformation, these shortcomings also significantly limit the development of such fabric.For this purpose, occurring in that some simulating hemp-simulating surfacing materials on market, the problems referred to above, and the appearance characteristics with natural ramie fiber fabric are not only solved.
As disclose in Chinese patent literature CN201310417973.0 a kind of use terylene melt one or more in yarn and ordinary polyester, viscose filament yarn, cotton, spandex carry out weaving the knitting fabric for obtaining the appearance characteristics with natural linen, however it is necessary that carrying out decrement processing and Final finishing air beating engineering, process engineering is comparatively laborious, relatively costly, and web surface is coarse, snugness of fit is poor, and purposes receives very big restriction.
The content of the invention
It is an object of the invention to provide a kind of processing is simple, soft, gas permeability is excellent, and the stretch knit fabric of the appearance characteristics with natural linen, is particularly well-suited to make the female trouser or overcoat of spring and summer.
The technical solution of the present invention is as follows：
The stretch knit fabric of the present invention, hands over volume to form by short fiber yarn and long filament, and the coil height formed by short fiber yarn is 130～210um more than the coil height and difference in height formed by long filament；By in spun yarn line forming part on the fabric, the hole proportion of 100～150um is 20%～35%, the hole proportion more than 150um is 5%～20%.
The stretch knit fabric of the present invention, it is not necessary to carry out decrement processing and air pats engineering, process simple, can also obtain that soft, gas permeability is excellent, and the stretch knit fabric of the appearance characteristics with natural linen.
Description of the drawings
（1）Coil SEM photographs of the Fig. 1 for 1 web surface of embodiment.Wherein L1It is the coil height formed by short fiber yarn, L2It is the coil height formed by long filament.
Specific embodiment
The stretch knit fabric of the present invention, hands over volume to form by short fiber yarn and long filament, and the coil height formed by short fiber yarn is 130～210um more than the coil height and difference in height formed by long filament；By in spun yarn line forming part on the fabric, the hole proportion of 100～150um is 20%～35%, the hole proportion more than 150um is 5%～20%.Wherein, if the coil height difference that the coil height that short fiber yarn is formed is formed with long filament is less than 130um, the imitative numb DeGrain of fabric；Contrary if difference in height is more than 210um, fabric is excessively lax, and elasticity and barrier property decline.And if on fabric by spun yarn line forming part in, the hole proportion of 100～150um be less than 20% or the hole proportion more than 150um less than 5%, the gas permeability of fabric is poor, and snugness of fit declines；Conversely, if the hole proportion of 100～150um is more than 35%, the imitative fiber crops DeGrain of fabric；Or the hole proportion more than 150um is more than if 20%, the imitative fiber crops effect of fabric equally not substantially yet, barrier property and flexibility decrease.
The section of middle short fiber yarn of the present invention is preferably section.Section chopped fiber occurs the irregular and morphological differences of contraction in process, it is ensured that the uneven distribution of hole, so as to obtain superior imitative numb effect.Here section shape is not particularly limited, and can be Multiblade（Such as six blade profiles etc.）, cross, star-like, sawtooth pattern etc., or above two and two or more fracture morphologies combination.The degree of profile of section is preferably greater than or equal to 20%.Degree of profile=（R-r）/ R, wherein r:The inscribed circle radius of profiled fibre cross-section form, mm after amplification；R：Circumradius in the respective cross-section concentric with r, mm.In addition, the fibrous raw material of above-mentioned short fiber yarn is not particularly limited, can be polyesters（PET）, it is polyamide-based etc..
The fineness of middle short fiber yarn of the present invention is preferably 30～100 English.The fabric woven with the yarn of this Denier range, the uneven distribution of hole become apparent from, and imitate fiber crops outward appearance more superior.
In the present invention, long filament used is preferably polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) long filament（PBT）, PTT long filament（PTT）, parallel type polyester complex fiber or spandex covered yarn.More preferably parallel type polyester complex fiber, its in process shrinkage factor be significantly larger than special-shaped short fiber yarn, can give fabric good elastic and compact sense.Here parallel type polyester composite yarn refers to polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) and polyethylene terephthalate composite yarn arranged side by side（PBT/PET）, PTT and polyethylene terephthalate composite yarn arranged side by side（PTT/PET）Or high viscosity polyethylene terephthalate/low viscosity polyethylene terephthalate（PET/PET）.Spandex covered yarn refers to the coating cotton thread formed with naked spandex yarn by polyesters long filament or polyamide-based long filament.
The tissue of the stretch knit fabric of the present invention is preferably cotton wool tissue, Rome tissue or changes cotton wool tissue.For one-sided composition, using the fabric of cotton wool tissue, Rome tissue or change cotton wool weave, structure is compact, and elasticity is relatively good, comfortable and easy to wear good, is unlikely to deform.Under equal conditions, cotton wool tissue is suitable with the imitative numb effect of Rome tissue, change cotton wool tissue.
The venting quality of the stretch knit fabric of the present invention is preferably 60cm3/cm2/ more than s.For change cotton wool tissue fabric, because structure slightly shows loose compared with cotton wool tissue, Rome tissue, venting quality is preferably 70cm3/cm2/ more than s.
The vertical and horizontal elongation of the stretch knit fabric of the present invention is both preferably more than 70%, elongation recovery percentage and is both preferably more than 85%.
The stretch knit fabric of the present invention can be used for the purposes such as female trouser or overcoat.
The production method of the stretch knit fabric of the present invention comprises the steps：
（1）Fabric is made
Friendship volume is carried out from short fiber yarn and long filament, the horizontal density of fabric is 38～55 coil numbers/inch, it is 45～60 coil numbers/inch to indulge density.
（2）Pre-treatment（It is optional）
Middle setting temperature is 180～195 degree, and the cloth speed on forming machine is 15～25m/min.Under equal conditions, the throughput of imitative fiber crops effect and fabric can be improved using middle sizing.
（3）Colour Difference
The temperature of Colour Difference is 85～135 degree, preferably 90～130 degree；The process time of maximum temperature is 20～60min, preferably 30～40min.
（4）Final finishing is processed
At least include super-soft processing, absorb water processing or the one kind in antistatic processing.The temperature of Final finishing processing is 150～180 degree, and the cloth speed on forming machine is 15～25m/min, and dosing is 5～20g/L.
The method of testing of each physical parameter according to the present invention is as follows：
（1）By the difference in height of the short fiber yarn coil for being formed and the coil formed by long filament
Starting random clip 1.0cm × 5 pieces of 1.0cm samples cloth at sample cloth selvedge 2.5cm, the SEM photograph of web surface coil is being shot to every piece of sample cloth using electron microscope.Measure the coil height of short fiber yarn at 10 on every piece of sample cloth at random respectively（Distance of the coil top away from bottom）With 10 at long filament coil height（Distance of the coil top away from bottom）, then the coil height mean value of long filament at the coil height mean value and 50 of short fiber yarn at measured 50 is obtained respectively, finally try to achieve its difference in height.
（2）Each scope hole proportion
First fabric to be sampled is placed in sample room, with the Si Weike silicone fluids that surface tension is 15.9 dynes/cm（silwick silicone Fluid）Wetting, then starting 5 pieces of the circular sample cloth of a diameter of 1.9cm～2.1cm of random clip at fabric selvedge 2.5cm, then according to ASTMF316-03 standards using hollow billet flowing hole measuring instrument（PMI Products, model：CFP-1100-AE）Distribution of pores on every piece of sample cloth of measurement, sets mode of operation as wet-up/dry-down patterns, and test environment is 20 ± 2 DEG C, 65 ± 4%RH.The ratio of pore size distribution situation and each scope hole can be directly read by test result.The mean value of the proportion of the hole and the hole more than 150um of 100～150um on 5 pieces of sample cloth is finally calculated respectively, obtains result.
（3）Venting quality
JIS L1096：2010（Pressure 125Mpa）.
（4）Elongation
JIS L1096：2010 D methods.
（5）Elongation recovery percentage
JIS L1096：2010 E methods.
（6）Barrier property
The measured color value of reference colours calico is determined first（LW）, the measured color value of reference colours black cloth（LB）, then test specimens are placed on reference colours calico, irradiated with D65 light sources, colour examining L1 values：（Lfw）Test specimens are placed on reference colours black cloth, are irradiated with D65 light sources, colour examining L2 measured color values：（Lfb）Permeation-proof degree=1-（Lfw- Lfb）/ LW-
LB。
（7）Apparent imitative numb effect evaluation method
The industry 5 years and the technical staff of the above are engaged in selection 10 carries out sensory evaluation, marking to the apparent imitative numb effect of fabric, 10 points of best result, minimum point 0 point, fraction is higher to show that the imitative fiber crops effect of fabric is more obvious, finally calculates the average mark of 10 technical staff, gives grade evaluation.Evaluate and carry out excellent（>8 points）, it is good（>5 points, 8 points）, it is general（>2 points, 5 points）, nothing（2 points）Four grades, wherein " excellent " to represent fabric apparent with outstanding imitative numb effect, it is apparent with good imitative numb effect that " good " represents fabric, and it is apparent with imitative numb effect but be not that fabric is apparent not to have imitative fiber crops effect it is obvious that "None" is represented that " general " represents fabric.
With reference to embodiment and comparative example, the invention will be further described.
Embodiment 1
Woven using the PET short fiber yarns and 75D-48f-PBT long filaments of 30 English, eight blade profile sections, it is organized as cotton wool tissue, carry out being woven into knitted fabric on 28G Double-plate machines, middle sizing is carried out using cloth speed 20m/min, 190 DEG C of condition on forming machine again, then 130 DEG C are carried out in liquid-flow dyeing machine, insulation 30min dyeing, finally using 160 DEG C of resin finishings（Softening agent 10g/L, water absorbing agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agent 1g/L）, finished product is obtained, its performance is shown in Table 1.
Embodiment 2
Woven using the PET short fiber yarns and 75D-48f-PBT long filaments of 60 English, eight blade profile sections, it is organized as Rome tissue, carry out being woven into knitted fabric on 28G Double-plate machines, middle sizing is carried out using cloth speed 20m/min, 190 DEG C of condition on forming machine again, then 130 DEG C are carried out in liquid-flow dyeing machine, insulation 30min dyeing, finally using 160 DEG C of resin finishings（Softening agent 10g/L, water absorbing agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agent 1g/L）, finished product is obtained, its performance is shown in Table 1.
Embodiment 3
Woven using the PET short fiber yarns and 75D-48f-PET/PTT parallel type complex yarns of 60 English, six blade profile sections, it is organized as plain stitch, carry out being woven into knitted fabric on 28G single-side machines, then 125 DEG C are carried out in liquid-flow dyeing machine, insulation 40min dyeing, finally using 165 DEG C of resin finishings（Softening agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agent 1g/L）, finished product is obtained, its performance is shown in Table 1.
Embodiment 4
Woven using the PET short fiber yarns and 75D-48f-PBT long filaments of 60 English, eight blade profile sections, be organized as changing cotton wool tissue, on 28G Double-plate machines carry out being woven into knitted fabric, then 125 DEG C are carried out in liquid-flow dyeing machine, insulation 40min dyeing, finally using 165 DEG C of resin finishings（Softening agent 10g/L, water absorbing agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agent 1g/L）, finished product is obtained, its performance is shown in Table 1.
Embodiment 5
The 100 PET short fiber yarns and 50D-48f-PBT long filaments mixed using cross section and eight blade profile sections are woven, it is organized as cotton wool tissue, carry out being woven into knitted fabric on 32G Double-plate machines, middle sizing is carried out using cloth speed 15m/min, 195 DEG C of condition on forming machine again, then 130 DEG C are carried out in liquid-flow dyeing machine, insulation 30min dyeing, finally using 160 DEG C of resin finishings（Softening agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agent 1g/L）, finished product is obtained, its performance is shown in Table 1.
Embodiment 6
Woven using the PET short fiber yarns and 100D-24f-PTT long filaments of 40 English, ten blade profile sections, it is organized as changing Rome tissue, carry out being woven into knitted fabric on 28G Double-plate machines, middle sizing is carried out using cloth speed 18m/min, 190 DEG C of condition on forming machine again, then 130 DEG C are carried out in liquid-flow dyeing machine, insulation 40min dyeing, finally using 160 DEG C of resin finishings（Softening agent 10g/L, water absorbing agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agent 1g/L）, finished product is obtained, its performance is shown in Table 1.
Embodiment 7
Woven using the PET short fiber yarns and 100D-24f-PTT long filaments of 40 English, ten blade profile sections, Rome tissue is organized as, and on 28G Double-plate machines is carried out being woven into knitted fabric, then 130 DEG C is carried out in liquid-flow dyeing machine, insulation 40min dyeing, finally using 160 DEG C of resin finishings（Softening agent 10g/L, water absorbing agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agent 1g/L）, finished product is obtained, its performance is shown in Table 1.
Embodiment 8
The wrap yarn formed using the PET short fiber yarns of the cross section of 40 English, 20D spandexs and 75D-36f-PET DTY is woven, it is organized as cotton wool tissue, carry out being woven into knitted fabric on 32G Double-plate machines, middle sizing is carried out using cloth speed 16m/min, 190 DEG C of condition on forming machine again, then 95 DEG C are carried out in liquid-flow dyeing machine, insulation 30min dyeing, finally using 160 DEG C of resin finishings（Softening agent 10g/L, water absorbing agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agent 1g/L）, finished product is obtained, its performance is shown in Table 1.
Embodiment 9
The 100 English PET short fiber yarns and 50D-48f-PET/PBT parallel type complex yarns mixed using cross section and eight blade profile sections is woven, it is organized as changing cotton wool tissue, carry out being woven into knitted fabric on 32G Double-plate machines, middle sizing is carried out using cloth speed 15m/min, 195 DEG C of condition on forming machine again, then 130 DEG C are carried out in liquid-flow dyeing machine, insulation 30min dyeing, finally using 160 DEG C of resin finishings（Softening agent 10g/L, water absorbing agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agent 1g/L）, finished product is obtained, its performance is shown in Table 1.
The coil height formed by short fiber yarn on fabric obtained by embodiment 1-9 is more than the coil height formed by long filament.Female trouser or overcoat are made using fabric obtained by embodiment 1-9.
Comparative example 1
Woven using the PET short fiber yarns and 75D-48f-PBT long filaments of the round section of 40 English, cotton wool tissue is organized as, and on 28G Double-plate machines is carried out being woven into knitted fabric, then 130 DEG C is carried out in liquid-flow dyeing machine, insulation 30min dyeing, finally using 160 DEG C of resin finishings（Softening agent 10g/L, water absorbing agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agent 1g/L）, finished product is obtained, its feature is shown in Table 1.
Comparative example 2
Woven using the PET short fiber yarns and 100D-48f-PET long filaments of 60 English, six blade profile sections, it is organized as changing cotton wool tissue, carry out being woven into knitted fabric on 28G Double-plate machines, middle sizing is carried out using cloth speed 18m/min, 190 DEG C of condition on forming machine again, then 130 DEG C are carried out in liquid-flow dyeing machine, insulation 30min dyeing, finally using 160 DEG C of resin finishings（Softening agent 10g/L, water absorbing agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agent 1g/L）, finished product is obtained, its performance is shown in Table 1.
Comparative example 3
The spandex covered yarn formed using the PET short fiber yarns of the round section of 60 English, 20D spandexs and 75D-36f-PET DTY is woven, it is organized as changing cotton wool tissue, carry out being woven into knitted fabric on 28G Double-plate machines, middle sizing is carried out using cloth speed 16m/min, 190 DEG C of condition on forming machine again, then 130 DEG C are carried out in liquid-flow dyeing machine, insulation 30min dyeing, finally using 160 DEG C of resin finishings（Softening agent 10g/L, water absorbing agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agent 1g/L）, finished product is obtained, its performance is shown in Table 1.
The each parameter of the knitting fabric of gained refers to table 1.
Table 1
In upper table, can be seen that with embodiment 2 by embodiment 1, the fabric formed by eight blade profile short fiber yarns of 30S and PBT is with being compared with the fabric that PBT is formed by eight blade profile short fiber yarns of 60S, coil height difference is less, and the more hole proportion more than 150um of the hole proportion of 100～150um is less, the imitative fiber crops effect of venting quality and surface is slightly worse.
Can be seen that with embodiment 4 by embodiment 3, using the plain stitch fabric of same short fiber yarn and long filament compared with change cotton wool tissue fabric, the hole proportion that the hole proportion of 100～150um is less, more than 150um is more, and venting quality is preferable, barrier property is slightly worse；And retractility（Spring rate is little, elastic recovery rate is big）Preferably；The imitative fiber crops effect of surface both is all obvious in addition.
Can be seen that with embodiment 9 by embodiment 5, short fiber yarn used is identical, using the fabric of PBT long filaments compared with the fabric using PET/PBT long filaments, coil height difference is less, the hole proportion that the hole proportion of 100～150um is more, more than 150um is less, and barrier property is preferably but retractility（Spring rate is little, elastic recovery rate is big）, the imitative fiber crops effect in venting quality and surface it is slightly worse.
By comparative example 1, comparative example 3 with embodiment 2 as can be seen that using the fabric of non-profiled section chopped fiber, aeration is poor, and fiber crops effect is not imitated on surface.
By comparative example 2 with embodiment 2 as can be seen that handing over the fabric compiled using non-resilient long filament and section short fiber yarn, elasticity and barrier property are poor, the imitative fiber crops effect in surface is general.
Claims (7)
1. a kind of stretch knit fabric, is characterized in that：The fabric hands over volume to form by short fiber yarn and long filament, and the coil height formed by short fiber yarn is 130～210um more than the coil height and difference in height formed by long filament；In the part formed by short fiber yarn on the fabric, the hole proportion of 100～150um is 20%～35%, the hole proportion more than 150um is 5%～20%.
2. stretch knit fabric according to claim 1, is characterized in that：The short fiber yarn is section.
3. stretch knit fabric according to claim 1, is characterized in that：The long filament is polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) long filament, PTT long filament, parallel type polyester complex fiber or spandex covered yarn.
4. stretch knit fabric according to claim 1, is characterized in that：Be organized as cotton wool tissue, Rome tissue or the change cotton wool of the fabric is organized.
5. the stretch knit fabric according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, is characterized in that：The venting quality of the fabric is 60cm3/cm2/ more than s.
6. the stretch knit fabric according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, is characterized in that：The vertical and horizontal elongation of the fabric is more than 70%, elongation recovery percentage and is more than 85%.
7. female trouser or overcoat obtained in the stretch knit fabric described in a kind of claim 1.
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| CN110983588A (en) * | 2019-12-31 | 2020-04-10 | 台巨纺织（上海）有限公司 | Cotton-polyester single-side three-layer knitted fabric and production method thereof |
| WO2021254258A1 (en) * | 2020-06-15 | 2021-12-23 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | Knitted fabric and use thereof |
| JP7312522B1 (en) | 2023-02-01 | 2023-07-21 | 無錫朗寧紡織科技有限公司 | Non-spandex highly elastic knitted mesh fabric and clothing |
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| CN106521784B (en) | 2019-07-12 |
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Effective date of registration: 20200325 Address after: 226009 Jiangsu province Nantong Ruixing economic and Technological Development Zone, Road No. 301 Patentee after: TORAY SAKAI (NANTONG) Address before: 226009 No. 58 South Road, Nantong economic and Technological Development Zone, Jiangsu, China Patentee before: TORAY FIBERS & TEXTILES RESEARCH LABORATORIES (CHINA) Co.,Ltd. |
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