CN106521784B - A kind of stretch knit fabric and application thereof - Google Patents
A kind of stretch knit fabric and application thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN106521784B CN106521784B CN201510573385.5A CN201510573385A CN106521784B CN 106521784 B CN106521784 B CN 106521784B CN 201510573385 A CN201510573385 A CN 201510573385A CN 106521784 B CN106521784 B CN 106521784B
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Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of stretch knit fabrics and application thereof.The fabric is compiled by short fiber yarn and long filament friendship, and the coil height formed by short fiber yarn is greater than the coil height formed by long filament；It is formed in part on the fabric by short fiber yarn, the hole proportion of 100~150um is 20%~35%, the hole proportion greater than 150um is 5%~20%；And that the processing is simple is easy, can also obtain that soft, gas permeability is excellent, while having the stretch knit fabric of the appearance characteristics of natural linen, which can be used for making female trouser or housing etc..
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of stretch knit fabrics and application thereof, and in particular to a kind of appearance with natural linen and
Knitting fabric of favorable elasticity and application thereof.
Background technique
It is well known that flaxen fiber class fabric has excellent dry feeling and gas permeability, it is the first choice of summer clothes.But shape
At having many hydroxyls on the cellulose macromolecule of flaxen fiber, when fiber is stretched, cellulose macromolecule or basic structure list
After first degree of orientation is improved or relatively moved, new hydrogen bond can be re-formed in the new position, after external force removal, fiber
The interior rotation of intermolecular unbroken hydrogen bond and molecule has the tendency that system is made to return back to original state, but in new position
The new hydrogen bond of upper formation has retardation, prevents system from responding immediately to, formation creep recovery, and creep recovery very little, also
There is so-called permanent deformation, thus flaxen fiber class fabric there are problems that being easy corrugation, deformation, these disadvantages are also very big
Ground limits the development of such fabric.For this purpose, occurring some simulating hemp-simulating surfacing materials in the market, not only solve the above problem, and
Appearance characteristics with natural ramie fiber fabric.
A kind of melt yarn and ordinary polyester, viscous using terylene as disclosed in Chinese patent literature CN201310417973.0
One or more of glue long filament, cotton, spandex carry out braiding and obtain the knitting fabric with the appearance characteristics of natural linen, but
It is to carry out decrement processing and final finishing air pats engineering, process engineering is comparatively laborious, higher cost, and web surface
Coarse, snugness of fit is poor, and purposes receives very big restriction.
Summary of the invention
The processing is simple the purpose of the present invention is to provide a kind of, soft, gas permeability is excellent, and has natural linen
Appearance characteristics stretch knit fabric, especially suitable for make spring and summer female trouser or housing.
Technical solution of the invention is as follows:
Stretch knit fabric of the invention is compiled, the line formed by short fiber yarn by short fiber yarn and long filament friendship
Circle height is greater than the coil height formed by long filament and difference in height is 130~210um；By spun yarn line forming portion on the fabric
In point, the hole proportion of 100~150um is 20%~35%, the hole proportion greater than 150um is 5%~20%.
Stretch knit fabric of the invention does not need to carry out decrement processing and air pats engineering, and it is easy that the processing is simple,
Energy acquisition is soft, gas permeability is excellent, and the stretch knit fabric of the appearance characteristics with natural linen.
Detailed description of the invention
(1) Fig. 1 is the coil SEM photograph of 1 web surface of embodiment.Wherein L1For the coil height formed by short fiber yarn
Degree, L2For the coil height formed by long filament.
Specific embodiment
Stretch knit fabric of the invention is compiled, the line formed by short fiber yarn by short fiber yarn and long filament friendship
Circle height is greater than the coil height formed by long filament and difference in height is 130~210um；By spun yarn line forming portion on the fabric
In point, the hole proportion of 100~150um is 20%~35%, the hole proportion greater than 150um is 5%~20%.Its
In, if the coil height difference that the coil height and long filament that short fiber yarn is formed are formed is less than 130um, the imitative fiber crops of fabric
Effect is unobvious；Opposite fabric is excessively lax if difference in height is greater than 210um, elasticity and barrier property decline.And if
It is formed in part on fabric by spun yarn line, hole of the hole proportion of 100~150um less than 20% or greater than 150um
For gap proportion less than 5%, the gas permeability of fabric is poor, snugness of fit decline；On the contrary, if 100~150um
If hole proportion is greater than 35%, the imitative numb effect of fabric is unobvious；Or the hole proportion greater than 150um is greater than 20%
If, the imitative numb effect of fabric is equally also unobvious, barrier property and flexibility decrease.
The section of middle short fiber yarn of the present invention is preferably section.Section staple fiber can go out in process
Now shrink irregular and morphological differences, it is ensured that the uneven distribution of hole, to obtain superior imitative numb effect.Here abnormity is disconnected
Face shape is not particularly limited, and can be Multiblade (such as six blade profiles), cross, star-like, sawtooth pattern etc., is also possible to above-mentioned
The combination of two kinds and two or more fracture morphologies.The degree of profile of section is preferably greater than or equal to 20%.Degree of profile=(R-r)/R,
Wherein r: the inscribed circle radius of profiled fibre cross-section form, mm after amplification；R: the circumscribed circle half with r in concentric respective cross-section
Diameter, mm.In addition, the fibrous raw material of above-mentioned short fiber yarn is not particularly limited, it can be polyesters (PET), polyamide-based etc..
The fineness of middle short fiber yarn of the present invention is preferably 30~100 English branch.The face woven with the yarn of this Denier range
Material, the uneven distribution of hole become apparent from, and it is more superior to imitate fiber crops appearance.
Long filament used is preferably polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) long filament (PBT), poly terephthalic acid the third two in the present invention
Alcohol ester long filament (PTT), parallel type polyester complex fiber or spandex covered yarn.More preferable parallel type polyester complex fiber, is adding
Shrinking percentage is significantly larger than special-shaped short fiber yarn during work, can assign the good elasticity of fabric and compact sense.Here and
Column type polyester composite yarn refers to polybutylene terephthalate (PBT) and polyethylene terephthalate composite yarn (PBT/ arranged side by side
PET), polypropylene terephthalate and polyethylene terephthalate composite yarn arranged side by side (PTT/PET) or high viscosity
Polyethylene terephthalate/low viscosity polyethylene terephthalate (PET/PET).Spandex covered yarn refers to by polyester
The coating cotton thread that class long filament or polyamide-based long filament and naked spandex yarn are formed.
The tissue of stretch knit fabric of the invention is preferably cotton wool tissue, Rome tissue or variation cotton wool tissue.Relatively
For one-sided composition, the fabric of cotton wool weave is organized or changed using cotton wool tissue, Rome, structure is compact, bullet
Property is relatively good, comfortable and easy to wear good, is unlikely to deform.Under equal conditions, the imitative fiber crops of cotton wool tissue and Rome tissue, variation cotton wool tissue
Effect is suitable.
The venting quality of stretch knit fabric of the invention is preferably 60cm3/cm2/ s or more.For changing cotton wool tissue surface
Material, because structure is slightly aobvious loose compared with cotton wool tissue, Rome tissue, venting quality is preferably 70cm3/cm2/ s or more.
It is preferred that the vertical and horizontal elongation of stretch knit fabric of the invention is both preferably 70% or more, elongation recovery percentage
It is 85% or more.
Stretch knit fabric of the invention can be used for the purposes such as female trouser or housing.
The production method of stretch knit fabric of the invention includes the following steps:
(1) fabric is made
Short fiber yarn and long filament is selected to carry out friendship volume, the horizontal density of fabric is 38~55 coil numbers/inch, and vertical density is
45~60 coil numbers/inch.
(2) pre-treatment (optional)
Intermediate setting temperature is 180~195 degree, and the cloth speed on forming machine is 15~25m/min.Under equal conditions, adopt
The ventilatory capacity of imitative numb effect and fabric can be improved with intermediate sizing.
(3) dyeing process
The temperature of dyeing process is 85~135 degree, preferably 90~130 degree；The processing time of maximum temperature be 20~
60min, preferably 30~40min.
(4) final finishing is processed
Including at least one of super-soft processing, water suction processing or antistatic processing.Final finishing processing temperature be 150~
180 degree, the cloth speed on forming machine are 15~25m/min, and dosing is 5~20g/L.
The test method of each physical parameter of the present invention is as follows:
(1) difference in height of the coil formed by short fiber yarn and the coil formed by long filament
Away from sample cloth selvedge 2.5cm start it is random 5 pieces of clip 1.0cm × 1.0cm sample cloth, using electron microscope to every
The SEM photograph of block sample cloth shooting web surface coil.Measure the coil of short fiber yarn at 10 respectively at random on every piece of sample cloth
The highly coil height (coil top away from bottom at a distance from) of (distance of the coil top away from bottom) and 10 directors silk, then ask respectively
The coil height average value of the coil height average value of short fiber yarn and 50 directors silk, finally acquires it at 50 measured out
Difference in height.
(2) each range hole proportion
First fabric to be sampled is placed in sample room, the Si Weike silicone fluid for being 15.9 dynes/cm with surface tension
(silwick silicone Fluid) wetting, then away from start fabric selvedge 2.5cm at random clip diameter for 1.9cm~
5 pieces of round sample cloth of 2.1cm, then according to ASTMF316-03 standard using hollow billet flowing hole measuring instrument (PMI Products,
Model: CFP-1100-AE) distribution of pores on every piece of sample cloth of measurement, set operating mode as wet-up/dry-down mode,
Testing environment is 20 ± 2 DEG C, 65 ± 4%RH.Pore size distribution situation and the ratio of each range hole can be direct by test result
It reads.Finally calculate separately out the flat of the proportion of the hole and hole greater than 150um of 100~150um on 5 pieces of sample cloth
Mean value obtains result.
(3) venting quality
JIS L1096:2010(pressure 125Mpa).
(4) elongation
JIS L1096:2010 D method.
(5) elongation recovery percentage
JIS L1096:2010 E method.
(6) barrier property
First measure the measured color value (L of reference colours calicoW), the measured color value (L of reference colours black clothB), then test specimens are placed on benchmark
On color calico, to be irradiated with D65 light source, colour examining L1 value: (Lfw) is placed on test specimens on reference colours black cloth, it is irradiated with D65 light source,
Colour examining L2 measured color value: (Lfb) permeation-proof degree=1-(Lfw- Lfb)/LW- LB。
(7) apparent imitative numb effect evaluation method
The technical staff that 10 are engaged in the industry 5 years or more is chosen to comment the apparent imitative numb effect progress sense organ of fabric
Valence, marking, best result 10 divides, minimum point 0 point, and score is higher to show that the imitative numb effect of fabric is more obvious, and finally calculates 10 technologies
The average mark of personnel gives grade evaluation.Excellent (> 8 points), good (> 5 ,≤8 point Fen), general (> 2 ,≤5 point Fen), nothing are carried out in evaluation
(≤2 point) four grades, wherein " excellent ", which represents fabric apparently, has an outstanding imitative numb effect, " good " represents fabric apparently and has good
Good imitative numb effect, " general " represent fabric apparently and have imitative fiber crops effect but be not it is obvious that "None" represents fabric does not have apparently
There is imitative numb effect.
Below with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples, the invention will be further described.
Embodiment 1
The PET short fiber yarn of eight blade profile sections is propped up using 30 English and 75D-48f-PBT long filament is woven, and is organized as cotton
Hair tissue, carries out being woven into knitted fabric on 28G Double-plate machine, then cloth speed 20m/min, 190 DEG C of item are used on forming machine
Part carries out intermediate sizing, 130 DEG C is then carried out in liquid-flow dyeing machine, heat preservation 30min dyeing is finally whole using 160 DEG C of resins
It manages (softening agent 10g/L, water absorbing agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agent 1g/L), obtains finished product, performance is shown in Table 1.
Embodiment 2
The PET short fiber yarn of eight blade profile sections is propped up using 60 English and 75D-48f-PBT long filament is woven, and is organized as sieve
Horse tissue, carries out being woven into knitted fabric on 28G Double-plate machine, then cloth speed 20m/min, 190 DEG C of item are used on forming machine
Part carries out intermediate sizing, 130 DEG C is then carried out in liquid-flow dyeing machine, heat preservation 30min dyeing is finally whole using 160 DEG C of resins
It manages (softening agent 10g/L, water absorbing agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agent 1g/L), obtains finished product, performance is shown in Table 1.
Embodiment 3
Using 60 Ying Zhiliu blade profile sections PET short fiber yarn and 75D-48f-PET/PTT parallel type complex yarn into
Row braiding is organized to carry out being woven into knitted fabric on 28G single-side machine, then carry out in liquid-flow dyeing machine for plain stitch
125 DEG C, heat preservation 40min dyeing finally uses 165 DEG C of resin finishings (softening agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agent 1g/L), obtains finished product,
Its performance is shown in Table 1.
Embodiment 4
The PET short fiber yarn of eight blade profile sections is propped up using 60 English and 75D-48f-PBT long filament is woven, and is organized to become
Change cotton wool tissue, carry out being woven into knitted fabric on 28G Double-plate machine, 125 DEG C is then carried out in liquid-flow dyeing machine, heat preservation
40min dyeing, finally uses 165 DEG C of resin finishings (softening agent 10g/L, water absorbing agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agent 1g/L), obtains into
Product, performance are shown in Table 1.
Embodiment 5
The 100 PET short fiber yarns and 50D-48f-PBT mixed using cross section and eight blade profile sections
Long filament is woven, and organizes to carry out being woven into knitted fabric on 32G Double-plate machine, then use on forming machine for cotton wool tissue
Cloth speed 15m/min, 195 DEG C of condition carry out intermediate sizing, 130 DEG C are then carried out in liquid-flow dyeing machine, heat preservation 30min dye
Color finally uses 160 DEG C of resin finishings (softening agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agent 1g/L), obtains finished product, performance is shown in Table 1.
Embodiment 6
Woven using the PET short fiber yarn and 100D-24f-PTT long filament of 40 Ying Zhishi blade profile sections, organize be
Change Rome tissue, carry out being woven into knitted fabric on 28G Double-plate machine, then uses cloth speed 18m/min, 190 on forming machine
DEG C condition carry out intermediate sizing, 130 DEG C are then carried out in liquid-flow dyeing machine, heat preservation 40min dyeing finally uses 160 DEG C
Resin finishing (softening agent 10g/L, water absorbing agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agent 1g/L), obtains finished product, performance is shown in Table 1.
Embodiment 7
Woven using the PET short fiber yarn and 100D-24f-PTT long filament of 40 Ying Zhishi blade profile sections, organize be
Rome tissue, carries out being woven into knitted fabric on 28G Double-plate machine, 130 DEG C is then carried out in liquid-flow dyeing machine, heat preservation
40min dyeing, finally uses 160 DEG C of resin finishings (softening agent 10g/L, water absorbing agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agent 1g/L), obtains into
Product, performance are shown in Table 1.
Embodiment 8
The packet formed using PET short fiber yarn, 20D spandex and 75D-36f-PET DTY that 40 English prop up cross section
It covers yarn to be woven, organizes to carry out being woven into knitted fabric on 32G Double-plate machine, then use on forming machine for cotton wool tissue
Cloth speed 16m/min, 190 DEG C of condition carry out intermediate sizing, and 95 DEG C are then carried out in liquid-flow dyeing machine, and heat preservation 30min is dyed,
160 DEG C of resin finishings (softening agent 10g/L, water absorbing agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agent 1g/L) are finally used, obtain finished product, performance is shown in
Table 1.
Embodiment 9
The 100 English branch PET short fiber yarns and 50D-48f- mixed using cross section and eight blade profile sections
PET/PBT parallel type complex yarn is woven, and organizes to carry out being woven into knitting on 32G Double-plate machine to change cotton wool tissue
Fabric, then on forming machine using cloth speed 15m/min, 195 DEG C condition carry out among be formed, then in liquid-flow dyeing machine into
130 DEG C of row, heat preservation 30min dyeing finally uses 160 DEG C of resin finishings (softening agent 10g/L, water absorbing agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agents
1g/L), finished product is obtained, performance is shown in Table 1.
It is high that the coil height formed on fabric obtained by embodiment 1-9 by short fiber yarn is greater than the coil formed by long filament
Degree.Female trouser or housing are made using fabric obtained by embodiment 1-9.
Comparative example 1
The PET short fiber yarn of round section is propped up using 40 English and 75D-48f-PBT long filament is woven, and is organized as cotton wool
Tissue, carries out being woven into knitted fabric on 28G Double-plate machine, 130 DEG C is then carried out in liquid-flow dyeing machine, heat preservation 30min dye
Color finally uses 160 DEG C of resin finishings (softening agent 10g/L, water absorbing agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agent 1g/L), obtains finished product, special
Sign is shown in Table 1.
Comparative example 2
Woven using the PET short fiber yarn and 100D-48f-PET long filament of 60 Ying Zhiliu blade profile sections, organize be
Change cotton wool tissue, carry out being woven into knitted fabric on 28G Double-plate machine, then uses cloth speed 18m/min, 190 on forming machine
DEG C condition carry out intermediate sizing, 130 DEG C are then carried out in liquid-flow dyeing machine, heat preservation 30min dyeing finally uses 160 DEG C
Resin finishing (softening agent 10g/L, water absorbing agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agent 1g/L), obtains finished product, performance is shown in Table 1.
Comparative example 3
The spandex formed using PET short fiber yarn, 20D spandex and 75D-36f-PET DTY that 60 English prop up round section
Wrap yarn is woven, and organizes to carry out being woven into knitted fabric on 28G Double-plate machine, then in forming machine to change cotton wool tissue
On intermediate sizing carried out using cloth speed 16m/min, 190 DEG C of condition, 130 DEG C are then carried out in liquid-flow dyeing machine, heat preservation
30min dyeing, finally uses 160 DEG C of resin finishings (softening agent 10g/L, water absorbing agent 10g/L, pH adjusting agent 1g/L), obtains into
Product, performance are shown in Table 1.
Gained is knitted each parameter of fabric, and see Table 1 for details.
Table 1
In upper table, the face that is formed it can be seen from embodiment 1 and embodiment 2 by eight blade profile short fiber yarn of 30S and PBT
For material compared with the fabric formed by eight blade profile short fiber yarn of 60S and PBT, coil height difference is smaller, and 100~150um
The more hole proportion greater than 150um of hole proportion is less, and the imitative numb effect of venting quality and surface is slightly worse.
Same short fiber yarn and the plain stitch fabric of long filament are used it can be seen from embodiment 3 and embodiment 4
Compared with changing cotton wool tissue fabric, the less hole proportion greater than 150um of the hole proportion of 100~150um compared with
More, venting quality is preferable, barrier property is slightly worse；And retractility (spring rate is small, elastic recovery rate is big) is preferable；In addition surface both is imitative
Numb effect is all obvious.
, fabric and use using PBT long filament identical as short fiber yarn used it can be seen from embodiment 9 by embodiment 5
The fabric of PET/PBT long filament is compared, and coil height difference is smaller, and the hole proportion of 100~150um is more, greater than 150um
Hole proportion is less, and barrier property is preferably but retractility (spring rate is small, elastic recovery rate is big), venting quality and surface are imitative numb
Effect is slightly worse.
The fabric of non-profiled section staple fiber, aeration are used it can be seen from comparative example 1, comparative example 3 and embodiment 2
It is poor, and the not imitative numb effect in surface.
The face compiled is handed over using non-resilient long filament and section short fiber yarn it can be seen from comparative example 2 and embodiment 2
Material, elasticity and barrier property are poor, and the imitative numb effect in surface is general.
Claims (7)
1. a kind of stretch knit fabric, it is characterized in that: the fabric is compiled by short fiber yarn and long filament friendship, the staple yarn
The coil height that line is formed is greater than the coil height formed by long filament and difference in height is 130~210 μm；By short fibre on the fabric
It ties up in the part that yarn is formed, 100~150 μm of hole proportion is 20%~35%, the hole institute accounting greater than 150 μm
Example is 5%~20%.
2. stretch knit fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: the staple fiber in the short fiber yarn is abnormity
Section.
3. stretch knit fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: the long filament is polybutylene terephthalate (PBT)
Long filament, polypropylene terephthalate long filament, parallel type polyester complex fiber or spandex covered yarn.
4. stretch knit fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: the tissue of the fabric is cotton wool tissue, Rome group
Knit or change cotton wool tissue.
5. stretch knit fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, it is characterized in that: the venting quality of the fabric is
60cm3/cm2/ s or more.
6. stretch knit fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, it is characterized in that: the vertical and horizontal of the fabric stretches
Long rate is that 70% or more, elongation recovery percentage is 85% or more.
7. female trouser or housing made from a kind of stretch knit fabric described in claim 1.
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Families Citing this family (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| WO2019024840A1 (en) * | 2017-08-01 | 2019-02-07 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | A knit fabric |
| CN110983588A (en) * | 2019-12-31 | 2020-04-10 | 台巨纺织（上海）有限公司 | Cotton-polyester single-side three-layer knitted fabric and production method thereof |
| US20230250566A1 (en) * | 2020-06-15 | 2023-08-10 | Toray Fibers & Textiles Research Laboratories (China) Co., Ltd. | Knitted fabric and use thereof |
| CN219099478U (en) * | 2023-02-01 | 2023-05-30 | 无锡朗宁纺织科技有限公司 | Ammonia-free high-elasticity knitted mesh fabric and ammonia-free high-elasticity knitted mesh garment |
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Effective date of registration: 20200325 Address after: 226009 Jiangsu province Nantong Ruixing economic and Technological Development Zone, Road No. 301 Patentee after: TORAY SAKAI (NANTONG) Address before: 226009 No. 58 South Road, Nantong economic and Technological Development Zone, Jiangsu, China Patentee before: TORAY FIBERS & TEXTILES RESEARCH LABORATORIES (CHINA) Co.,Ltd. |
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