A kind of lining cloth and preparation method thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to garment industry, particularly relate to a kind of lining cloth and preparation method thereof.
Background technology
Garment dyeing principle is to utilize reactive dye or direct dyes and cellulose fibre formationization
Learning bond to close or combine by intermolecular active force, usual dyeing temperature is typically at 60-90 DEG C of model
In enclosing, after dyeing, also need to fixation, need to coordinate ferment or stone grinder, or carry out soft treatment.
The most this kind of clothing gluing lining cloth proposes high requirement:
1: base fabric and glue, as the part in fabric compound system, need to coordinate colouring.
2: gluing lining cloth needs enough strengths and fastness to washing, coordinates whole ready-made clothes dyeing technology,
The phenomenons such as foaming, degumming can not occur, and need suitable elasticity so that stretching in dyeing course
Contracting stress and can not disengage with fabric, shrinkage need to be mated with fabric, smooth after cleaning, i.e. lining cloth
Itself needs preferable non-ironing effect.
3: the quality of lining cloth own needs to meet the requirement of the frivolous softness of feel, to such an extent as to does not interferes with
Clothing feel.In general base fabric square grammes per square metre is at 25-80g/m2, after coating total square gram of finished product
Focus on about 35-95 gram.
Because cost performance relation, the base fabric material of conventional binder lining cloth is the most all terylene, although altogether
Polyamide type PUR disclosure satisfy that the requirement of normal complexion fastness to washing, but pure terylene material base fabric without
Reactive dye or direct dyes are painted by method.Terylene grey fabric dyeing is at 130 DEG C with disperse dyes
Dyeing under the High Temperature High Pressure of left and right, it is required that this dyeing condition deviate from far away cotton fabric dyeing
Condition.Because under the conditions of dye cotton, terylene base fabric does not contaminates color, therefore, this adhesive lining
Cloth causes clothing with the compound system inconsistent meeting of color after dyeing of cellulose material fabric composition
Apparent flaws, thus affect clothing overall value.
Although lining cloth enterprise can also use cotton or produce based on cotton or viscose base fabric
Garment dyeing adhesion lining cloth, but in general the spun yarn base fabric grammes per square metre of cellulose molecular structure is relatively
Greatly, feel is inflexible, and flexible softness is inadequate, and itself shrinkage in water is big, poor dimensional stability,
Fastness to washing is inadequate, poor with PUR fastness to washing matching.Therefore, except cotton that cotton underwear is special
Special collar support may be used for outside the garment dyeing of this class vest, it is impossible to coupling uses other ready-made clothes
The outer of dyeing puts.
Therefore, it is necessary to it is that rag trade is badly in need of solving that exploitation is applicable to the adhesion lining cloth of ready-made clothes dyeing technology
Determine and the problem of puzzlement lining cloth technical staff.
Summary of the invention
The technical problem that present invention mainly solves is to provide one and has preferable cloth surface evenness, no
There will be the phenomenon of degumming, and peel strength be higher, color fastness preferably garment dyeing lining cloth and
Its manufacture method.
For solving above-mentioned technical problem, a kind of technical scheme that the present invention provides is, a kind of lining cloth
Manufacture method, including:
Making grey cloth, wherein warp thread and weft yarn are to obtain described base by plain weave or twill-weave
Cloth, the ratio simultaneously going up gate width and finished door width adjusts between 1.25-1.55 scope;
Described grey cloth is carried out Final finishing process;
The described lining cloth processed through Final finishing is carried out heat treatment;
Described lining cloth after heat treatment is carried out gluing process, prepares lining cloth, wherein use
Double-dot coating method carries out gluing.
Wherein, the material of warp thread and weft yarn is nylon 6DTY material or nylon66 fiber DTY material
Make.
Wherein, described warp thread material specification is at 10D-100D, and the specification of weft material is at 50D-200D
Between.
Wherein, described grey cloth is carried out the step of Final finishing process, including:
Described grey cloth is placed in steam preshrinking machine and carries out preshrunk process, to reduce the door of described grey cloth
Width, thus obtain the elastic through broadwise of product needed.
Described grey cloth after preshrunk is placed in refine oil removing in overflow dyeing machine.
Wherein, when carrying out heat treatment, the shrinkage factor of the grey cloth of warp thread to finished product controls
Between 20%-30% scope.
Wherein, described grey cloth is after heat treatment, and water repellent degree controls between 60-90 scope.
Wherein, when carrying out gluing, carrying out gluing by double-dot coating method, prime cement is high temperature resistant water washing
The prime cement of polyurethane type, dusting material is the copolyamide hot-melt adhesive powder of high-melting-point eutectic value.
Wherein, when being coated with prime cement, cylinder mesh number selects between 15-25 mesh scope, coating amount
In the range of 8-20 gram/m.
Wherein, when making described grey cloth, warp thread and weft yarn be obtained by 2/2 twill-weave described
Grey cloth.
For solving above-mentioned technical problem, the another kind of technical scheme that the present invention provides is: a kind of lining cloth,
Described lining cloth prepares according to said method.
The invention has the beneficial effects as follows: be different from the situation of prior art, the lining cloth that the present invention provides
Manufacture method in, by choosing the ratio preferably going up gate width with finished door width, and use plain weave
Tissue or twill-weave obtain grey cloth;And the grey cloth obtained is carried out at Final finishing process and sizing
Reason, keeps the lining cloth after gluing to have the feel of good elasticity and soft fluffy, and ensures ready-made clothes
Flat appearance after dyeing, does not haves the phenomenons such as foaming, degumming, soft.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is the flow chart of manufacture method one embodiment of the lining cloth of the present invention;
Fig. 2 be the lining cloth shown in Fig. 1 manufacture method in gluing process schematic diagram.
Detailed description of the invention
The present invention will be described in detail with embodiment below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings.
Referring to Fig. 1, the present invention provides the manufacture method of a kind of lining cloth, in one embodiment,
Comprise the steps:
S101, makes grey cloth, and wherein warp thread and weft yarn are to be obtained by plain weave or twill-weave
Grey cloth, the ratio of upper gate width and finished door width adjusts between 1.25-1.55 scope.
Concrete, choose loom and make grey cloth, during grey cloth, choose plain weave or oblique
The material of stricture of vagina tissue, warp thread and weft yarn is selected from nylon 6DTY material or nylon66 fiber DTY material,
The ratio of upper gate width and finished door width adjusts between 1.25-1.55 scope, to ensure that lining cloth has foot
Enough big elasticity, thus when being further ensured that dyeing, lining cloth and fabric do not have degumming, foaming etc.
Phenomenon.
Loom is selected from as weaving machine with water spraying or air-jet loom machine, when selecting weaving machine with water spraying, system
The grey cloth become needs to carry out drying and processing after lower machine.It addition, because raw material has good shrinkage factor,
The grey cloth made finished door width in the case of being dried is 205-208cm.
Upper gate width is 190-230cm, to meet the elastic deformability of lining cloth needs, further
, upper gate width is 230cm.
It is appreciated that under similar temperature and pressure condition, nylon 6DTY material, nylon66 fiber DTY
The color that material is dyed is same or like with cotton material, and color fastness is not less than the color of cotton fabric
Fastness.
It is appreciated that nylon DTY material controls and processing request according to garment dyeing lining grammes per square metre,
Specification is between 10D-200D scope.
It is appreciated that described warp thread material specification exists in 10D-100D, the specification of weft material
Between 50D-200D.
It is appreciated that warp thread is relatively thin, needs to process through starching, in order to make grey cloth.
S102, carries out Final finishing process to grey cloth.
Concrete, Final finishing processes and comprises the steps:
Grey cloth is placed in steam preshrinking machine and carries out preshrunk process, to reduce the door width of grey cloth, thus
Obtain the elastic through broadwise of product needed;
Grey cloth after preshrunk is placed in refine oil removing in overflow dyeing machine.
It is appreciated that the grey cloth after preshrunk becomes softness the tightst, fluffy, has relatively through broadwise
Good elasticity, and can effectively reduce scratch in refining process, cause hook silk, can effectively protect
Protect cloth cover and feel effect.
It is appreciated that the grey cloth through refine oil removing can be the most expanded, there is more preferable elasticity.
In a specific embodiment, degreasing fluid includes:
Zhejiang development of evil in febrile disease company high temperature deoil spirit 1g/l;
BL-106 pre-treatment chelated dispersants 1.2g/l;
DM-1320 desizing agent 1.2g/l;
Soda 2.5g/l.
Step S103, carries out heat treatment to the grey cloth after Final finishing processes.
Wherein, in setting process, the shrinkage factor of the grey cloth of warp thread to finished product controls at 20%-30% model
Between enclosing, to keep enough elasticity, and when elastic deformability is to ensure that garment dyeing lining cloth with
The key factor that fabric not degumming is bubbled.
It is appreciated that the water repellent degree of the grey cloth after heat treatment controls between 60-90 scope, with
Obtain good effect with follow-up carrying out when gluing processes, ensure long-time garment dyeing and other one-tenth
The phenomenon such as degumming, foaming is occurred without during clothing Final finishing.Further, the base after heat treatment
The water repellent degree of cloth controls between 80-85 scope.
It is appreciated that the fluffy softness of grey cloth feel after heat treatment, elastic abundant.
In a specific embodiment, style keeping liquid includes:
High fluffy silicone oil 438 15g/l of the development of evil in febrile disease;
Little molecule silicone oil CST soft and slender element 10g/l;
Fluorine system water repellent 625 trade mark 4g/l;
Antistatic additive 0.2g/l;
Glacial acetic acid 1g/l.
Step S104, carries out gluing process to the grey cloth after heat treatment, prepares lining cloth, its
Middle employing double-dot coating method carries out gluing.
Refer to Fig. 2, present embodiment carries out gluing by double-dot coating method, first exists with cylinder
It is coated with prime cement on grey cloth 10, forms slurry point 20, be then formed with the table of slurry point 20 at grey cloth 10
Face poudrage spreads last layer powder 30, and a part of powder is bonded on slurry point, and another part is without slurry
The powder being stained with is recycled after being siphoned away by suction powder reclaiming device, then by drying, sintering
Be formed for double-dot coating, to improve the combination property of lining cloth, and be guaranteed in long-time garment dyeing and
During other finishing after slopwork, not degumming is bubbled.
It is appreciated that in present embodiment that prime cement is the prime cement of the polyurethane type of high temperature resistant water washing,
Dusting is the copolyamide hot-melt adhesive powder of high-melting-point eutectic value.Wherein during coating prime cement, cylinder mesh number exists
Between 15-25 mesh scope, coating amount is 8-20 gram/m, to ensure good bonding and washable
Effect.
In a detailed description of the invention, prime cement selects farsighted 506 trade mark prime cements in east, Shanghai, and it has non-
The best high temperature resistant water washing ability;The dusting material selection EMS company 2A trade mark, it has fusing point
Value high, molten is low, high temperature resistant water washing, resistance to dry-cleaning and the whole premium properties such as boiling hot of resistance to steam.
In the manufacture method of the lining cloth that the present invention provides, preferably go up gate width and finished product by choosing
The ratio of door width, and use plain weave or twill-weave to obtain grey cloth;And the grey cloth obtained is carried out
Final finishing processes and heat treatment so that the lining cloth after gluing has good elasticity and soft fluffy
Feel, and ensure flat appearance after garment dyeing, non-foaming, not degumming, soft;Separately
Outward, by corresponding ready-made clothes dyeing technology, lining cloth face color can catch phase as cotton fabric
Same or close color, nor affects on attractive in appearance even without lining covering.And the raw material of lining cloth
Wear-resisting, soft smooth, select this type of lining cloth to make leisure ready-made clothes and can reduce lining use, simplify
Habilimentation, more light air ventilation, cost-effective.
The present invention also provides for a kind of lining cloth prepared by said method.
The present invention provide lining cloth can below 98 DEG C under condition of normal pressure with acid stain by lining cloth
Base fabric is dyed and can be caught same or like color as cotton fabric, hides even without lining
Lid nor affects on attractive in appearance, thus obvious aberration between fabric and lining cloth when eliminating garment dyeing.
Embodiment 1:T4552-05H
Choosing air-jet loom machine and make grey cloth, wherein choose twill 2/2 and organize, warp-wise material is PA66
DTY material, specification is microgrid 15D/5F, and weft material is PA6 DTY material, and specification is
150D/48F, upper machine thread count is 29x13.5 root/cm, and upper gate width is 230cm.
Grey cloth is carried out Final finishing process.Being placed in steam preshrinking machine by grey cloth, temperature is 135 DEG C,
Speed 20m/min, carries out preshrunk under tension-free state, and door width is contracted to from about 205cm
About 140cm.
Further the grey cloth after preshrunk is placed in refine oil removing in overflow dyeing machine, with further preshrunk
Expanded.Particularly as follows: the grey cloth after preshrunk is placed in overflow dyeing machine, at heating rate when 90 DEG C
It is to be warming up to 115 DEG C under 1.5 DEG C/min dye, is incubated 25 minutes;Then 60 DEG C it are cooled to
Time discharge opeing;Washed by acid-base neutralization when 45 DEG C, discharge opeing again after 15 minutes;When 40 DEG C
Wash, go out cloth subsequently;Drying and dehydrating, open-width is carried out after going out step.
Then heat treatment is carried out.Temperature is 195 DEG C, and speed is 35-38m/min, back door of shaping
Width is 156cm, yield rate 78% of shaping, after sizing through weft density be 42.5x17.5 root/cm, flat
FT-207 weight 51-52 gram, water repellent degree is 85-90 (measuring by international standard).
Longitude and latitude is measured to pyrocondensation at 140 DEG C: warp-wise <-3%, broadwise <-2.5%.
Carrying out gluing process, particularly as follows: select cp52 cylinder, aperture is 0.38mm, at the bottom of two point
The prime cement of slurry polyurethane type, selects farsighted 506 trade mark prime cements in east, Shanghai, dusting material selection EMS
Company's 2A trade mark.Adjusting drying room temperature is 175 DEG C, speed 20m/min, coating amount 13-15g/m2。
Coating back door width is not less than 152cm, total square of grammes per square metre 64-66 gram.
Quality test results: with conventional polyester-cotton blend test fabric test.
Fusing condition: 140 DEG C, 2.5kg/cm2, 15s condition is on HP-600LCS type bonder
Data are tested with standard polyester-cotton fabric: stripping is strong after bonding > 40N/5cm, carry on the back thoroughly 0.8N/5cm, dry
After washing 5 times, stripping is strong > 30N/5cm, after 0 DEG C of machine washing 3 times, stripping is strong > 20N/5cm.And pass through sandwich
Sandwich method records pyrocondensation, and warp-wise <-3%, broadwise <-2%.
The lining cloth prepared by test data explanation explanation the present embodiment 1 have good bonding intensity and
High temperature resistant water washing performance, chemical-resistant reagent (dry-cleaning) ability is the strongest.
Embodiment 2:T4560-06H
Choosing air-jet loom machine and make grey cloth, wherein choose twill 2/2 and organize, warp-wise material is PA6
DTY material, specification is microgrid 75D/24F, and weft material is PA6 DTY material, and specification is
150D/48F, upper machine thread count is 20x10 root/cm, and upper gate width is 225cm.
Grey cloth is carried out Final finishing process.Being placed in steam preshrinking machine by grey cloth, temperature is 140 DEG C,
Speed 15m/min, carries out preshrunk under tension-free state, and door width is contracted to from about 205cm
About 140cm.
Further the grey cloth after preshrunk is placed in refine oil removing in overflow dyeing machine, with further preshrunk
Expanded.Particularly as follows: the grey cloth after preshrunk is placed in overflow dyeing machine when 90 DEG C, in the speed that heats up
Rate is to be warming up to 115 DEG C under 1.5 DEG C/min dye, and is incubated 25 minutes;Then 60 DEG C it are cooled to
Time discharge opeing;Washed by acid-base neutralization when 45 DEG C, discharge opeing again after 15 minutes;When 40 DEG C
Wash, go out cloth subsequently;Drying and dehydrating, open-width is carried out after going out step.
Then heat treatment is carried out.Temperature is 195 DEG C, and speed is 38m/min, sizing back door width
For 156cm, yield rate 78.5% of shaping, after sizing through weft density be 29x12.8 root/cm, square
Grammes per square metre 60-61 gram, water repellent degree is 85-90 (measuring by international standard).
Longitude and latitude is measured to pyrocondensation at 140 DEG C: warp-wise <-3%, broadwise <-2.5%.
Carrying out gluing process, particularly as follows: select cp66 cylinder, aperture is 0.34mm, and two point is coated with
The prime cement of layer prime cement polyurethane type, selects farsighted 506 trade mark prime cements in east, Shanghai, and dusting material selects
With the EMS company 2A trade mark.Adjusting drying room temperature is 178 DEG C, speed 18m/min, coating amount
13-14g/m2.Coating back door width is not less than 152cm, total square of grammes per square metre 75-76 gram.
Quality test results: with conventional polyester-cotton blend test fabric test.
Fusing condition: 140 DEG C, 2.5kg/cm2, 15s condition is on HP-600LCS type bonder
Data are tested with standard polyester-cotton fabric: stripping is strong after bonding > 45N/5cm, carry on the back thoroughly 0.5N/5cm, dry
After washing 5 times, stripping is strong > 38N/5cm, after 90 DEG C of machine washings 3 times, stripping is strong > 25N/5cm.And pass through Sanming City
Control sandwich method and record pyrocondensation, and warp-wise <-3%, broadwise <-2%.
The lining cloth prepared by test data explanation explanation the present embodiment 1 have good bonding intensity and
High temperature resistant water washing performance, chemical-resistant reagent ability is the strongest.
Garment dyeing validation test:
By the T4552-05H nylon garment dyeing lining cotton textiles with about 300 grams of one piece of 50x50cm
Twill shallow colour of loess fabric is on HP-600LCS bonder, and adjusting temperature is 140 DEG C, and pressure is
2.5kg/cm2, the time is to bond under conditions of 15 seconds.With Polyester Taffeta lining after bonding
The surrounding on lining cloth surface is sewed on, and rubs in dyeing washing with the lining cloth after simulating lining protection bonding
Balling-up.Then according to the ready-made clothes dyeing technology after following improvement carries out measure of merit.
Calculating the lining cloth weight after the nylon adhesive of 50x50cm area is 16 grams, 50x50cm's
Textile twill fabric weight is 75 grams, Polyester Taffeta lining 25 grams.
Ready-made clothes ENZYME WASH testing machine carries out garment dyeing and ferment softness washes test, including as follows
Step:
The first step, deoil moistening sample, particularly as follows: add a small amount of neutral detergent, at 45 DEG C
Wash 15 minutes, then discharge opeing.
Second step, first dyes to the lining cloth part after bonding, particularly as follows: based on bath raio 1:25
Calculate, in testing machine, i.e. add 3 liters of water, 5 grams of nylon special levelling agent TF-217F, 2 grams of DA
Acid.Additionally need to add three kinds of acid staiies: 0.0136 gram of TF-2BL is red;0.056 gram of TF-RXL
Yellow;0.176 gram of TF-RL orchid, the most above-mentioned three kinds of acid staiies pour in testing machine after material,
Carrying out positive and negative stirring limit together with sample, temperature will heat up speed controlling and is after rising to 40 DEG C simultaneously
1.5 DEG C/min, until being incubated 30 minutes after 98 DEG C.
3rd step, dyes to textile twill shallow colour of loess fabric components, is specially;In second step
Control to be 1.5 DEG C/min by cooling rate after being incubated 30 minutes at 98 DEG C, during until 40 DEG C, add
Reactive dye after 110 grams of Matrii Sulfas Exsiccatus, materials, 0.9 gram of active red, 1.5 grams of reactive yellows and 2.4
Gram Active blue, carries out positive and negative stirring, is warming up to 60 DEG C simultaneously after addition, now add 65 grams pure
Alkali, is incubated 40 minutes, is stirred simultaneously.Then cooling rate controls is that 2 DEG C/min is cooled to
Discharge opeing is carried out after 40 DEG C.Add 3 liters of water, soap under conditions of 40 DEG C, add 3
Rise water and 5 grams of ice, to occur acid-base neutralization to react, carry out discharge opeing subsequently.
4th step, ferment softness washes process, particularly as follows: on ENZYME WASH testing machine, add 3 liters
Water, puts into the sample after three step process, adds 6 grams of dolantin company acidic cellulases
DM-8628, and adjust pH regulator in the range of 4.6-4.8, while stirring, it is warming up to 55 DEG C,
And it is incubated 50 minutes.So, cotton surface biopolishing process is completed.It is subsequently adding 10 grams of left sides
Right soda, so that pH value to be transferred to 9-9.5, and keeps being warming up to 80 DEG C and keeping 15 minutes by residual
Remaining enzyme-deactivating, then discharge opeing.Clean twice with water, finally neutralize once with glacial acetic acid, clean
Dehydration is dried.
Then remove the Polyester Taffeta lining protective layer of lining cloth surrounding, check that cloth cover is tested:
1: cloth surface evenness outward appearance meets the requirements, whole scald after can reach 3.5-4 level flatness, cloth cover
Have no degumming foaming phenomena.
2: check and find that lining cloth face and cotton front are green Lycoperdon polymorphum Vitt, two sides color depth and coloured light
The most close.
3: between sampling and testing fabric and lining cloth, peel strength is still > 10N/5cm.
4: nylon lining cloth face dry friction color fastness > 4 grades, wet friction color fastness > 4 grades.
5: cotton fabric front dry friction color fastness > 4 grades, wet friction color fastness is not less than 3 grades.
6: after dry, sample pH is 6.2.
By above test, the lining cloth that the manufacture method of the lining cloth that the present invention provides prepares has preferably
Cloth surface evenness, do not have the phenomenon such as degumming, foaming, and peel strength is higher, color fastness
Preferably.
It is different from the situation of prior art, the foregoing is only embodiments of the present invention, and unprovoked
This limits the scope of the claims of the present invention, every utilizes what description of the invention and accompanying drawing content were made etc.
Efficient construction or equivalence flow process conversion, or directly or indirectly it is used in other relevant technical fields, all
In like manner it is included in the scope of patent protection of the present invention.