A kind of lining cloth and preparation method thereof
Technical field
The present invention relates to garment industries, more particularly to a kind of lining cloth and preparation method thereof.
Background technique
Garment dyeing principle be formed using reactive dye or direct dyes and cellulose fibre chemical bonds or
It is combined by intermolecular active force, usual dyeing temperature also needs fixation generally within the scope of 60-90 DEG C, needs to match after dyeing
Close ferment perhaps stone mill or progress soft treatment.Therefore this kind of clothes propose high requirement with gluing lining cloth:
1:Base fabric and glue need to cooperate colouring as a part in fabric compound system.
2:Gluing lining cloth needs enough strengths and fastness to washing, cooperates entire ready-made clothes dyeing technology, there can be no blistering, takes off
Phenomena such as glue, and need elasticity appropriate that cannot disengage with fabric so as to the flexible stress in dyeing course, shrinkage need to be with
Fabric matching, wants smooth after cleaning, i.e., lining cloth itself needs preferable non-ironing effect.
3:Lining cloth quality itself needs to meet the requirement of the frivolous softness of feel, so that will not influence clothes feel.Generally
For base fabric square grammes per square metre in 25-80g/m2, total square of grammes per square metre of finished product is at 35-95 grams or so after coating.
Because of cost performance relationship, the base fabric material of conventional binder lining cloth is usually all terylene, although copolyamide type heat
Melten gel can satisfy colouring and the requirement of fastness to washing, but pure polyester material base fabric can not be on reactive dye or direct dyes
Color.Terylene grey fabric dyeing is dyed under 130 DEG C or so of high temperature and pressure with disperse dyes, this dyeing condition much deviates from
Condition required for cotton fabric dyes.Because terylene base fabric does not contaminate color under the conditions of contaminating cotton, therefore, this adhesive lining
Color is inconsistent after dyeing will cause apparel appearance flaw for the compound system of cloth and cellulose material fabric composition, to influence
Clothes overall value.
Although cotton also can be used in lining cloth enterprise or the base fabric based on cotton or viscose glues to produce garment dyeing and use
Lining cloth is closed, but the spun yarn base fabric grammes per square metre of in general cellulose molecular structure is larger, feel is inflexible, and flexible softness is inadequate,
Shrinkage is big in water for itself, and poor dimensional stability, fastness to washing is inadequate, poor with hot melt adhesive fastness to washing matching.Therefore, in addition to cotton
The special collar support of the dedicated cotton of shirt can be used for outside the garment dyeing of this kind of shirts, can not match and other ready-made clothes is used to contaminate
The outer of color is put on.
Therefore, it is necessary to which developing suitable for the adhesion lining cloth of ready-made clothes dyeing technology is that rag trade is badly in need of solving and perplexing lining cloth
The problem of technical staff.
Summary of the invention
The invention mainly solves the technical problem of providing a kind of with preferable cloth surface evenness, is not in degumming
Phenomenon, and peel strength is higher, preferable garment dyeing lining cloth of color fastness and preparation method thereof.
In order to solve the above technical problems, a kind of technical solution provided by the invention is, and a kind of production method of lining cloth, packet
It includes:
Fabric is made, wherein warp thread and weft yarn are that the fabric is obtained by plain weave or twill-weave, while upper machine
Door the ratio between width and finished door width adjustment is between 1.25-1.55 range;
Final finishing processing is carried out to the fabric;
Processing is carried out shaping to the lining cloth by final finishing processing;
To after setting treatment the lining cloth carry out gluing processing, be made lining cloth, wherein using double-dot coating method into
Row gluing.
Wherein, the material of warp thread and weft yarn is made of nylon 6DTY material or nylon66 fiber DTY material.
Wherein, the warp thread material specification is in 10D-100D, and the specification of weft material is between 50D-200D.
Wherein, the step of final finishing processing being carried out to the fabric, including:
The fabric is placed in progress preshrunk processing in steam preshrinking machine, to reduce the door width of the fabric, to obtain
Product needs elastic through broadwise.
The fabric after preshrunk is placed in overflow dyeing machine and refines oil removing.
Wherein, when carrying out shaping processing, the shrinking percentage of fabric to the finished product of warp thread is controlled between 20%-30% range.
Wherein, after setting treatment, water repellent degree controls between 60-90 range the fabric.
Wherein, when carrying out gluing, gluing is carried out by double-dot coating method, prime cement is the polyurethane type of high temperature resistant water washing
Prime cement, dusting material are the copolyamide hot-melt adhesive powder of high-melting-point eutectic value.
Wherein, when being coated with prime cement, cylinder mesh number is selected between 15-25 mesh range, and the range of coating amount is 8-20 grams/
Square metre.
Wherein, when making the fabric, warp thread and weft yarn are to obtain the fabric by 2/2 twill-weave.
In order to solve the above technical problems, another technical solution provided by the invention is:A kind of lining cloth, the lining cloth according to
The above method is prepared.
The beneficial effects of the invention are as follows:It is in contrast to the prior art, in the production method of lining cloth provided by the invention,
By choosing preferably upper the ratio between gate width and finished door width, and fabric is obtained using plain weave or twill-weave;And will
The fabric arrived carries out final finishing processing and setting treatment, and the lining cloth after keeping gluing has the hand of good elasticity and soft fluffy
Phenomena such as sense, and flat appearance after guarantee garment dyeing are not in blistering, degumming, it is soft.
Detailed description of the invention
Fig. 1 is the flow chart of one embodiment of production method of lining cloth of the invention;
Fig. 2 is the schematic diagram that gluing is handled in the production method of lining cloth shown in FIG. 1.
Specific embodiment
The present invention will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings and examples.
Referring to Fig. 1, the present invention provides a kind of production method of lining cloth, in one embodiment, include the following steps:
S101 makes fabric, and wherein warp thread and weft yarn are that fabric is obtained by plain weave or twill-weave, upper gate width
With the adjustment of the ratio between finished door width between 1.25-1.55 range.
Specifically, choosing loom makes fabric, during fabric, choose plain weave or twill-weave, warp thread and
The material of weft yarn is selected from nylon 6DTY material or nylon66 fiber DTY material, and the ratio between upper gate width and finished door width are adjusted in 1.25-
Between 1.55 ranges, to guarantee that lining cloth has sufficiently large elasticity, to be further ensured that lining cloth will not go out with fabric when dyeing
Phenomena such as existing degumming, blistering.
It is weaving machine with water spraying or air-jet loom machine that loom, which is selected from, and when selecting weaving machine with water spraying, manufactured fabric is under
It needs to carry out drying and processing after machine.In addition, because raw material have good shrinking percentage, manufactured fabric finished product in dry conditions
Door width is 205-208cm.
Upper gate width is 190-230cm, and to meet the elastic deformability of lining cloth needs, further, upper gate width is
230cm。
It is appreciated that under similar temperature and pressure condition, the color that nylon 6DTY material, nylon66 fiber DTY material are dyed
It is same or similar with cotton material, and color fastness is not less than the color fastness of cotton fabric.
It is appreciated that nylon DTY material serves as a contrast grammes per square metre control and processing request according to garment dyeing, specification is in 10D-200D model
Between enclosing.
It is appreciated that the warp thread material specification, in 10D-100D, the specification of weft material is between 50D-200D.
It is appreciated that warp thread is thinner, need to handle by starching, in order to make fabric.
S102 carries out final finishing processing to fabric.
Specifically, final finishing processing includes the following steps:
Fabric is placed in progress preshrunk processing in steam preshrinking machine, to reduce the door width of fabric, to obtain product needs
Through broadwise elasticity;
Fabric after preshrunk is placed in overflow dyeing machine and refines oil removing.
It is appreciated that the fabric after preshrunk become more closely, it is fluffy it is soft, there is preferable elasticity through broadwise, and can
It is abraded in refining process with effectively reducing, causes to hook silk, can acted on effective protection cloth cover and feel.
It is appreciated that the further extruding of fabric energy by refining oil removing, has preferably elasticity.
In a specific embodiment, degreasing fluid includes:
Zhejiang development of evil in febrile disease company high temperature deoils clever 1g/l;
BL-106 pre-treatment chelated dispersants 1.2g/l;
DM-1320 desizing agent 1.2g/l;
Soda ash 2.5g/l.
Step S103, to treated that fabric carries out shaping processing by final finishing.
Wherein, in setting process, the shrinking percentage of fabric to the finished product of warp thread is controlled between 20%-30% range, to protect
Enough elasticity is held, and elastic deformability is an important factor for lining cloth and fabric not degumming are blistered when guaranteeing garment dyeing.
It is appreciated that setting treatment after fabric water repellent degree control between 60-90 range, with subsequent carry out gluing
Good effect is obtained when processing, ensures during long-time garment dyeing and other finishing after slopwork do not occur degumming, blistering
Phenomena such as.Further, the water repellent degree of the fabric after setting treatment controls between 80-85 range.
It is appreciated that the fluffy softness of fabric feel after setting treatment, elasticity is sufficiently.
In a specific embodiment, style keeping liquid includes:
High fluffy 438 15g/l of silicone oil of the development of evil in febrile disease;
The soft and slender element 10g/l of small molecule silicone oil CST;
625 trade mark 4g/l of fluorine system water repellent;
Antistatic agent 0.2g/l;
Glacial acetic acid 1g/l.
Step S104 carries out gluing processing to the fabric after setting treatment, lining cloth is made, wherein using double-dot coating
Method carries out gluing.
Referring to Fig. 2, carrying out gluing by double-dot coating method in present embodiment, bottom first is coated on fabric 10 with cylinder
Slurry forms slurry point 20, then sprinkles one layer of powder 30, a part of powder with inspergation on the surface that fabric 10 is formed with slurry point 20
It is sticked on slurry point, another part is recycled without starching after the powder being stained with is siphoned away by suction powder reclaiming device, then passes through
Drying, sintering just form double-dot coating, to improve the comprehensive performance of lining cloth, and ensure in long-time garment dyeing and other ready-made clothes
Not degumming blistering during final finishing.
It is appreciated that prime cement is the prime cement of the polyurethane type of high temperature resistant water washing in present embodiment, dusting is high-melting-point
The copolyamide hot-melt adhesive powder of eutectic value.Cylinder mesh number is between 15-25 mesh range when being wherein coated with prime cement, coating amount 8-20
Gram/m, to guarantee good bonding and washable effect.
In a specific embodiment, prime cement selects farsighted 506 trade mark prime cement in Shanghai east, with extraordinary high-temperature resistant water
Wash ability;The dusting material selection EMS company 2A trade mark is high with fusing point, molten to be worth low, high temperature resistant water washing, dry cleaning resistance and resistance to steaming
The whole boiling hot equal excellent performances of vapour.
In the production method of lining cloth provided by the invention, by choosing preferably upper the ratio between gate width and finished door width, and
Fabric is obtained using plain weave or twill-weave;And obtained fabric is subjected to final finishing processing and setting treatment, so that applying
Lining cloth after glue has the feel of good elasticity and soft fluffy, and guarantees flat appearance after garment dyeing, not blistering, does not take off
Glue, it is soft;In addition, lining cloth face color can be caught identical as cotton fabric by corresponding ready-made clothes dyeing technology
Or similar color, beauty is nor affected on even without lining covering.And the raw material of lining cloth are wear-resisting, and it is soft smooth, it selects
Such lining cloth production leisure ready-made clothes can reduce lining use, simplify habilimentation, more light air ventilation, save the cost.
The present invention also provides a kind of lining cloth prepared by the above method.
Lining cloth provided by the invention can be dyed lining cloth base fabric and cotton with acid dyes under 98 DEG C or less condition of normal pressure
Matter fabric can equally catch same or similar color, beauty be nor affected on even without lining covering, to eliminate ready-made clothes
Obvious color difference when dyeing between fabric and lining cloth.
Embodiment 1:T4552-05H
It chooses air-jet loom machine and makes fabric, organized wherein choosing twill 2/2, through being PA66DTY material, specification to material
For microgrid 15D/5F, weft material is PA6 DTY material, and specification 150D/48F, upper machine thread count is 29x13.5 root/cm,
Upper gate width is 230cm.
Final finishing processing is carried out to fabric.Fabric is placed in steam preshrinking machine, temperature is 135 DEG C, speed 20m/min,
Preshrunk is carried out under tension-free state, door width is contracted to 140cm or so from 205cm or so.
Further the fabric after preshrunk is placed in overflow dyeing machine and refines oil removing, with further preshrunk extruding.Specially:
Fabric after preshrunk is placed in overflow dyeing machine at 90 DEG C, 115 DEG C is warming up in the case where heating rate is 1.5 DEG C/min and is contaminated
Color keeps the temperature 25 minutes;Drain when being then cooled to 60 DEG C;It is washed at 45 DEG C by acid-base neutralization, drain again after 15 minutes;
It is washed at 40 DEG C, subsequent cloth outputting;It is dried and dehydrated after walking out, open-width.
Then processing is carried out shaping.Temperature is 195 DEG C, speed 35-38m/min, and sizing back door width is 156cm, sizing
Yield rate 78%, after sizing through weft density be 42.5x17.5 root/cm, 51-52 grams of square grammes per square metre, water repellent degree be 85-90 (press state
Border standard test).
Measurement is through broadwise pyrocondensation at 140 DEG C:Through to<- 3%, broadwise<- 2.5%.
Gluing processing is carried out, specially:Selection cp52 cylinder, aperture 0.38mm, two point prime cement polyurethane type
Prime cement selects farsighted 506 trade mark prime cement in Shanghai east, the dusting material selection EMS company 2A trade mark.Adjusting drying room temperature is 175 DEG C, vehicle
Fast 20m/min, coating amount 13-15g/m2.Coating back door width be not less than 152cm, total square 64-66 grams of grammes per square metre.
Quality test results:With the test fabric test of conventional polyester-cotton blend.
Fusing condition:140 DEG C, 2.5kg/cm2, 15s condition is viscous with standard polyester-cotton fabric on HP-600LCS type bonder
Test data after conjunction:Stripping is strong>40N/5cm, back are saturating<0.8N/5cm is shelled strong after dry-cleaning 5 times>30N/5cm, 0 DEG C machine washing 3 times after shell
By force>20N/5cm.And pyrocondensation is measured by sandwich sandwich method, through to<- 3%, broadwise<- 2%.
As test data illustrate the present embodiment 1 made from lining cloth have good bonding intensity and high temperature resistant water washing
Can, chemical-resistant reagent (dry-cleaning) ability is also stronger.
Embodiment 2:T4560-06H
It chooses air-jet loom machine and makes fabric, organized wherein choosing twill 2/2, through being PA6 DTY material, specification to material
For microgrid 75D/24F, weft material is PA6 DTY material, and specification 150D/48F, upper machine thread count is 20x10 root/cm,
Upper gate width is 225cm.
Final finishing processing is carried out to fabric.Fabric is placed in steam preshrinking machine, temperature is 140 DEG C, speed 15m/min,
Preshrunk is carried out under tension-free state, door width is contracted to 140cm or so from 205cm or so.
Further the fabric after preshrunk is placed in overflow dyeing machine and refines oil removing, with further preshrunk extruding.Specially:
Fabric after preshrunk is placed in overflow dyeing machine at 90 DEG C, is warming up to 115 DEG C of progress in the case where heating rate is 1.5 DEG C/min
Dyeing keeps the temperature 25 minutes;Drain when being then cooled to 60 DEG C;It is washed at 45 DEG C by acid-base neutralization, is arranged again after 15 minutes
Liquid;It is washed at 40 DEG C, subsequent cloth outputting;It is dried and dehydrated after walking out, open-width.
Then processing is carried out shaping.Temperature is 195 DEG C, speed 38m/min, and sizing back door width is 156cm, finished product of being formed
Rate 78.5% through weft density is 29x12.8 root/cm after sizing, and 60-61 grams of square grammes per square metre, water repellent degree is 85-90 (by international mark
Quasi- measurement).
Measurement is through broadwise pyrocondensation at 140 DEG C:Through to<- 3%, broadwise<- 2.5%.
Gluing processing is carried out, specially:Select cp66 cylinder, aperture 0.34mm, double-dot coating prime cement polyurethanes
The prime cement of type selects farsighted 506 trade mark prime cement in Shanghai east, the dusting material selection EMS company 2A trade mark.Adjusting drying room temperature is 178
DEG C, speed 18m/min, coating amount 13-14g/m2.Coating back door width be not less than 152cm, total square 75-76 grams of grammes per square metre.
Quality test results:With the test fabric test of conventional polyester-cotton blend.
Fusing condition:140 DEG C, 2.5kg/cm2, 15s condition is viscous with standard polyester-cotton fabric on HP-600LCS type bonder
Test data after conjunction:Stripping is strong>45N/5cm, back are saturating<0.5N/5cm is shelled strong after dry-cleaning 5 times>38N/5cm, 90 DEG C machine washing 3 times after shell
By force>25N/5cm.And pyrocondensation is measured by sandwich sandwich method, through to<- 3%, broadwise<- 2%.
As test data illustrate the present embodiment 1 made from lining cloth have good bonding intensity and high temperature resistant water washing
Can, chemical-resistant reagent ability is also stronger.
Garment dyeing validation test:
By the shallow colour of loess fabric of 300 grams or so of pure cotton twill of T4552-05H nylon garment dyeing lining and one piece of 50x50cm
On HP-600LCS bonder, adjustment temperature is 140 DEG C, pressure 2.5kg/cm2, the time is to be glued under conditions of 15 seconds
It closes.It is sewed on the surrounding on the lining cloth surface of Polyester Taffeta lining after bonding, is being dyed with simulating the lining cloth after lining protection bonding
Rub pilling in washing.Then measure of merit is carried out according to following improved ready-made clothes dyeing technology.
Lining cloth weight after calculating the nylon adhesive of 50x50cm area is 16 grams, the pure cotton twill fabric weight of 50x50cm
It is 75 grams, 25 grams of Polyester Taffeta lining.
Garment dyeing is carried out on ready-made clothes ENZYME WASH testing machine and ferment softness washes test, is included the following steps:
The first step deoils and soaks sample, specially:A small amount of neutral detergent is added, washes 15 minutes at 45 DEG C, then
Drain.
Second step first dyes the lining cloth part after bonding, specially:By bath raio 1:25 calculate, i.e., in testing machine
3 liters of water of middle addition, the dedicated levelling agent TF-217F of 5 grams of nylon, 2 grams of DA acid.In addition it needs that three kinds of acid dyes are added:0.0136 gram
TF-2BL is red;0.056 gram of TF-RXL Huang;0.176 gram of TF-RL orchid, wherein above-mentioned three kinds of acid dyes pour into test after material
In machine, carry out positive and negative stirring side together with sample, at the same temperature rise to 40 DEG C after to will heat up speed control be 1.5 DEG C/min, directly
30 minutes are kept the temperature after to 98 DEG C.
Third step dyes the shallow colour of loess fabric components of pure cotton twill, specially;30 points are kept the temperature at 98 DEG C in second step
It by cooling rate control is 1.5 DEG C/min after clock, when 40 DEG C, reactive dye after 110 grams of anhydrous sodium sulphate, materials are added, 0.9
Gram active red, 1.5 grams of active yellows and 2.4 grams of Active blues, carry out positive and negative stirring after addition, while being warming up to 60 DEG C, at this time plus
Enter 65 grams of soda ash, keeps the temperature 40 minutes, be stirred simultaneously.Then cooling rate control is to carry out after 2 DEG C/min is cooled to 40 DEG C
Drain.3 liters of water are added, are soaped under conditions of 40 DEG C, 3 liters of water and 5 grams of ice are added, it is anti-acid-base neutralization occurs
It answers, then carries out drain.
4th step, ferment softness wash processing, specially:On ENZYME WASH testing machine, 3 liters of water are added, are put into through third step
Treated sample, is added 6 grams of dolantin company acidic cellulase DM-8628, and pH is adjusted to be adjusted within the scope of 4.6-4.8,
It is warming up to 55 DEG C while stirring, and keeps the temperature 50 minutes.In this way, completing cotton surface biopolishing process.Then 10 grams are added
PH value is transferred to 9-9.5 by left and right soda ash, and is kept being warming up to 80 DEG C and kept for 15 minutes for remaining enzyme-deactivating, is then arranged
Liquid.It washes with water twice, finally in glacial acetic acid and once, cleaning and dewatering dries.
Then the Polyester Taffeta lining protective layer of lining cloth surrounding is removed, checks that cloth cover is tested:
1:Cloth surface evenness appearance meets the requirements, it is whole scald after can reach 3.5-4 grade flatness, cloth cover has no that degumming blistering shows
As.
2:It checks discovery lining cloth face and cotton front is ashy green color, two sides color depth and coloured light are close.
3:Peel strength is still between sampling and testing fabric and lining cloth>10N/5cm.
4:Nylon lining cloth face dry friction color fastness>4 grades, wet friction color fastness>4 grades.
5:Cotton fabric front dry friction color fastness>4 grades, wet friction color fastness is not less than 3 grades.
6:Sample pH is 6.2 after dry.
By testing above, lining cloth made from the production method of lining cloth provided by the invention has preferable cloth cover smooth
Phenomena such as spending, being not in degumming, blistering, and peel strength is higher, color fastness is preferable.
It is in contrast to the prior art, the above is only the implementation of the present invention mode, is not intended to limit the present invention
The scope of the patents, it is all using equivalent structure or equivalent flow shift made by description of the invention and accompanying drawing content, or directly
Or it is used in other related technical areas indirectly, it is included within the scope of the present invention.