CN105648616A - Medium or dark shade fabric and production method thereof - Google Patents
Medium or dark shade fabric and production method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN105648616A CN105648616A CN201410630929.2A CN201410630929A CN105648616A CN 105648616 A CN105648616 A CN 105648616A CN 201410630929 A CN201410630929 A CN 201410630929A CN 105648616 A CN105648616 A CN 105648616A
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Abstract
The invention discloses a medium or dark shade fabric and a production method thereof; the fabric is a woven or knitted fabric at least comprising terylene and spandex, wherein the spandex fiber content takes about 3-20%; the fabric L value is 12-65; in the dry cleaning color fastness of the fabric that measured according to the JISL0860 standards, the variable color is above 3-4 level, staining is above 3 level, and washing lotion pollution is above 3 level. A hot setting and sour water washing mode is added after dyeing, thus effectively improving the dry cleaning color fastness of the medium or dark shade fabric; sorting setting temperature is controlled so as to stabilize the improved effect, so the fabric has excellent dry cleaning color fastness.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to dark fabric and production method thereof in one, it is specifically related to middle dark elastic fabric and the production method thereof of a kind of high dry-cleaning colour fastness.
Background technology
It is well known that the color at major part garment material initial stage all compares bright-coloured, but after being through the conditions such as friction or Exposure to Sunlight, color relation can change, and there has been proposed corresponding solution to solve these colour fastness problems. Such as, by the good dyeability of positively charged ion terylene and dye penetration in CN200810062408.6, it is ensured that adopt the colorfastness to rubbing of the knit fabric of terylene and spandex. And for example, uvioresistant auxiliary agent is used to improve the light fastness of fabric when CN201310581010.4 being shaped by Final finishing. But above-mentioned patent all fails to solve the dry-cleaning colour fastness problem of fabric.
Need to add the dry cleaning composition that oil or zellon and so on performance is relatively given prominence to during dryclean, perhaps within can accomplishing criterion of acceptability for light color fabric, but middle dark fabric just differs up to standard surely, especially the elastic fabric of spandex is contained, the criterion of acceptability that every colour fastness often can not reach more than 3 grades is dry-cleaned according to what JISL0860 standard recorded, even if by methods such as washing reinforcement or fixation, perhaps dry-clean variable color, dry-cleaning staining can accomplish qualified value 3 grades, but for dry-cleaning washing lotion pollution project often only reach 1-2 or 2 grade.
In addition, although also Lu Luxu is continuous carries out a series of product innovations for this project of dry-cleaning in part dyestuff producer, improve drycleaning with the use of special dyestuff, but these dyestuffs often price all costly, the stability of color is also good not as the colour stability of conventional dyestuff.
Summary of the invention
It is an object of the invention to provide a kind of working method simple, with low cost, there is middle dark fabric and the production method thereof of good dry-cleaning colour fastness.
The fabric of the present invention is the woven or knitted fabrics at least containing terylene and spandex, wherein the content of spandex fibre is 3%��20%, and the L value of this fabric is 12��65, in the dry-cleaning colour fastness of this fabric recorded according to JISL0860 standard, variable color more than 3��4 grades, staining more than 3 grades, washing lotion pollute more than 3 grades.
The working method of the present invention is simple, the dry-cleaning colour fastness of middle dark fabric is effectively improved by the mode adding drying and shaping after dyeing, acidity is washed, and by arrangement setting temperature control is stabilized is improved effect, gained fabric has superior dry-cleaning colour fastness, and such fabric can meet the dry-cleaning colour fastness requirement of some high-end apparel brand completely.
Embodiment
Spandex content is the middle dark fabric of 3%��20%, owing to employing the dyestuff of more amount, spandex more or less also can adsorb a part, too big impact is not perhaps had for the washing colour fastness of routine, sweat proof colour fastness, colorfastness to rubbing etc., but for employing the dry-cleaning mode of the stronger zellon of solvability or oil, be attached to spandex surface and inner dyestuff can be peeled off again, cause fabric variable color, staining; Even can be dissolved in dry-cleaning liquid causes washing lotion to pollute, and finally causes dry-cleaning colour fastness defective. And this phenomenon can't produce deviation because of the length form of other fibre compositions in fabric or fiber, as long as containing terylene composition in fabric, and need dispersion dyeing, the composition of spandex reach 3%��20% even higher when, will exist dry-cleaning colour fastness problem.
In the middle dark fabric of the present invention, polyster fibre is one or both in ordinary polyester fiber and modified polyester fibre.
Consider the comfortable property of fabric, it is preferable that also containing cotton or viscose fiber except terylene and spandex, its content is 10%��40%.
The production method of the middle dark fabric of the present invention, adopt the woven or knitting grey cloth at least containing terylene and spandex, wherein the content of spandex fibre is 3%��20%, comprises and obtains product as follows: dyeing �� alkaline reduction washing �� drying and shaping �� acidic reduction washing �� arrange sizing. Here dyeing is dispersion dyeing, and processing conditions is the conventional dispersion dyeing condition of ordinary polyester. The weave construction of fabric is not particularly limited.
After wherein dispersion dyeing completes, generally only carry out one alkaline reduction washing, but this for dry-cleaning colour fastness or inadequate. Present invention utilizes the feature of dispersion dyeing, first drying sizing is carried out again after primary alkali reduction washing, dye sublimation polyster fibre and the infiltration of spandex fibre slight internal entered is out so that it is is attached to fiber surface, carries out acidic reduction washing afterwards again. Drying and shaping temperature preferably 160��180 DEG C. Acidic reduction washing mainly plays two effects: the dyestuff eccysis that distillation is out still attached to fiber surface is gone by (1), improves colour fastness further, especially dry-cleans the washing lotion pollution project of colour fastness; (2) this kind condition more close with dispersion dyeing environment is washed by acidic reduction, and the water-washing method that alkalescence washing is more gentle relatively, it is possible to stable color greatly, the color change that unlikely generation is bigger.
The mode usually adopting and going straight up to the highest temperature is cleaned in alkaline reduction, is incubated 20��60 minutes after arriving the highest temperature 80��95 DEG C. With medicament is made at least to comprise vat powder 3��10g/L, caustic soda or soda ash 1��6g/L. After highest temperature insulation terminates, it is cooled to 60��70 DEG C and carries out row's feedwater, and then carry out 2��4 clear water washings, each 2��5 minutes, complete alkaline reduction and clean.
Acidic reduction cleans the mode usually adopting and going straight up to the highest temperature, is incubated 20��60 minutes after arriving the highest temperature 80��95 DEG C. With medicament is made at least to comprise Glacial acetic acid 1��5g/L, acidic reduction agent 1��5g/L. After highest temperature insulation terminates, it is cooled to 60��70 DEG C and carries out row's feedwater, and then carry out 2��4 clear water washings, each 2��5 minutes, complete acidic reduction and clean.
In order to prevent the arrangement of last excessive temperature from shaping so that the distillation again of the dyestuff permeated into precipitates out, the significantly result of impact dry-cleaning colour fastness, therefore, the temperature arranging sizing is not preferably higher than 190 DEG C.
Embodiment
The testing method of each performance involved in the present invention is as follows.
(1) colour fastness is dry-cleaned
The A method in " fabric is to the test method of dry-cleaning colour fastness " in JISL0860-2008 is adopted to test. Choose and represent sample and put into cotton bag together with Stainless Steel Ball, be placed in zellon stir, the de-liquid of extruding, dry, evaluate the variable color of sample and the staining of adjacent fabric with gray scale. Filter solvents projects light with blank and compares, and evaluates the painted of solvent with gray scale.
(2) L value
By sample 21 �� 1 DEG C (70 �� 2) 65 �� 2% relative humidity placement several hours under standard atmospheric conditions, DATECOLOR equipment is used to carry out the test of fabric L value afterwards.
By the following examples and comparative example the invention will be further described.
Embodiment 1
Warp thread adopts the woven grey cloth that 150D washs the coated yarn of ammonia, weft yarn adopts the coated yarn of 32S spandex, and wherein spandex content is 10.5%. Obtain the middle dark fabric of the present invention as follows: 135 DEG C of * 60min dispersion dyeing �� 90 DEG C * 30min alkaline reduction washing (caustic soda 3g/L, vat powder 3g/L) �� 170 DEG C of drying and shaping �� 80 DEG C * 30min acidic reduction washing (Glacial acetic acid 2g/L, acidic reduction agent 2g/L) �� 60 DEG C of * 60min active coloring �� 180 DEG C arrange sizing. The various performance parameters of gained fabric is in table 1.
Embodiment 2
All adopting 75D to wash the woven grey cloth of the coated yarn of ammonia through weft yarn, wherein spandex content is 12.2%. Obtain the middle dark fabric of the present invention as follows: 135 DEG C of * 60min dispersion dyeing �� 90 DEG C * 30min alkaline reduction washing (caustic soda 3g/L, vat powder 3g/L) �� 170 DEG C of drying and shaping �� 80 DEG C * 30min acidic reduction washing (Glacial acetic acid 2g/L, acidic reduction agent 2g/L) �� 180 DEG C of arrangement sizings. The various performance parameters of gained fabric is in table 1.
Embodiment 3
Warp thread adopts the woven grey cloth that 75D washs the coated yarn of ammonia, weft yarn employing 50D washs the coated yarn of ammonia, and wherein spandex content is 18.2%. Obtain the middle dark fabric of the present invention as follows: 135 DEG C of * 60min dispersion dyeing �� 90 DEG C * 30min alkaline reduction washing (caustic soda 3g/L, vat powder 5g/L) �� 170 DEG C of drying and shaping �� 80 DEG C * 30min acidic reduction washing (Glacial acetic acid 3g/L, acidic reduction agent 3g/L) �� 185 DEG C of arrangement sizings. The various performance parameters of gained fabric is in table 1.
Embodiment 4
All adopt the woven grey cloth of the 32S coated yarn of polyester-cotton blend ammonia through weft yarn, wherein spandex content is 7.4%. Obtain the middle dark fabric of the present invention as follows: 130 DEG C of * 60min dispersion dyeing �� 85 DEG C * 20min alkaline reduction washing (caustic soda 2g/L) �� 160 DEG C of drying and shaping �� 80 DEG C * 20min acidic reduction washing (Glacial acetic acid 1g/L) �� 60 DEG C of * 60min active coloring �� 180 DEG C arrange sizing. The various performance parameters of gained fabric is in table 1.
Embodiment 5
Warp thread adopts 40S bifilar to wash the coated yarn of sticky spandex, weft yarn adopts 40S sub-thread to wash the woven grey cloth of the sticky coated yarn of spandex of the coated yarn of sticky spandex and 40S cationic polyester, and wherein spandex content is 3.3%. Obtain the middle dark fabric of the present invention as follows: 135 DEG C of * 60min dispersion dyeing �� 95 DEG C * 30min alkaline reduction washing (caustic soda 4g/L, vat powder 4g/L) �� 160 DEG C of drying and shaping �� 95 DEG C * 30min acidic reduction washing (Glacial acetic acid 3g/L, acidic reduction agent 3g/L) �� 60 DEG C of * 60min active coloring �� 170 DEG C arrange sizing. The various performance parameters of gained fabric is in table 1.
Embodiment 6
All adopting 50D to wash the woven grey cloth of the coated yarn of ammonia through weft yarn, wherein spandex content is 19.8%. Obtain the middle dark fabric of the present invention as follows: 135 DEG C of * 60min dispersion dyeing �� 85 DEG C * 30min alkaline reduction washing (caustic soda 1g/L, vat powder 2g/L) �� 180 DEG C of drying and shaping �� 90 DEG C * 20min acidic reduction washing (Glacial acetic acid 1g/L, acidic reduction agent 2g/L) �� 190 DEG C of arrangement sizings. The various performance parameters of gained fabric is in table 1.
Embodiment 7
Yarn 1 uses the knitting grey cloth that 21S cotton yarn, yarn 2 use 100D polyester filament, yarn 3 and use 40D naked spandex yarn to be formed, and wherein spandex content is 15.3%. Obtain the middle dark fabric of the present invention as follows: 125 DEG C of * 60min dispersion dyeing �� 80 DEG C * 20min alkaline reduction washing (sodium carbonate 2g/L) �� 160 DEG C of drying and shaping �� 80 DEG C * 20min acidic reduction washing (Glacial acetic acid 1g/L) �� 60 DEG C of * 60min active coloring �� 170 DEG C arrange sizing. The various performance parameters of gained fabric is in table 1.
Embodiment 8
The woven grey cloth of embodiment 1 is selected to obtain the middle dark fabric of the present invention as follows: 135 DEG C of * 60min dispersion dyeing �� 90 DEG C * 30min alkaline reduction washing (caustic soda 3g/L, vat powder 3g/L) �� 155 DEG C of drying and shaping �� 80 DEG C * 30min acidic reduction washing (Glacial acetic acid 2g/L, acidic reduction agent 2g/L) �� 60 DEG C of * 60min active coloring �� 180 DEG C arrange sizing. The various performance parameters of gained fabric is in table 1.
Embodiment 9
The woven grey cloth of embodiment 1 is selected to obtain the middle dark fabric of the present invention as follows: 135 DEG C of * 60min dispersion dyeing �� 90 DEG C * 30min alkaline reduction washing (caustic soda 3g/L, vat powder 3g/L) �� 185 DEG C of drying and shaping �� 80 DEG C * 30min acidic reduction washing (Glacial acetic acid 2g/L, acidic reduction agent 2g/L) �� 60 DEG C of * 60min active coloring �� 180 DEG C arrangement sizings. The various performance parameters of gained fabric is in table 1.
Embodiment 10
The knitting grey cloth of embodiment 4 is selected to obtain the middle dark fabric of the present invention as follows: 130 DEG C of * 60min dispersion dyeing �� 85 DEG C * 20min alkaline reduction washing (caustic soda 2g/L) �� 160 DEG C of drying and shaping �� 80 DEG C * 20min acidic reduction washing (Glacial acetic acid 1g/L) �� 60 DEG C of * 60min active coloring �� 195 DEG C arrange sizing. The various performance parameters of gained fabric is in table 1.
Embodiment 11
The woven grey cloth of embodiment 1 is selected to obtain the middle dark fabric of the present invention as follows: 135 DEG C of * 60min dispersion dyeing �� 90 DEG C * 30min alkaline reduction washing (caustic soda 3g/L, vat powder 3g/L) �� 170 DEG C of drying and shaping �� 80 DEG C * 30min acidic reduction washing (Glacial acetic acid 2g/L, acidic reduction agent 2g/L) �� 60 DEG C of * 60min active coloring �� 195 DEG C arrange sizing. The various performance parameters of gained fabric is in table 1.
Comparative example 1
Selecting the woven grey cloth of embodiment 1, wherein spandex content is 10.5%. Obtain middle dark fabric as follows: 135 DEG C of * 60min dispersion dyeing �� 90 DEG C * 30min alkaline reduction washing (caustic soda 3g/L, vat powder 3g/L) �� 80 DEG C of * 30min acidic reductions washing (Glacial acetic acid 2g/L, acidic reduction agent 2g/L) �� 60 DEG C of * 60min active coloring �� 180 DEG C arrange sizing. The various performance parameters of gained fabric is in table 1.
Comparative example 2
Selecting the woven grey cloth of embodiment 2, wherein spandex content is 12.2%. Obtain middle dark fabric as follows: 135 DEG C of * 60min dispersion dyeing �� 90 DEG C * 30min alkaline reduction washing (caustic soda 3g/L, vat powder 3g/L) �� 170 DEG C of drying and shaping �� 180 DEG C arrange sizing.The various performance parameters of gained fabric is in table 1.
Comparative example 3
Selecting the woven grey cloth of embodiment 3, wherein spandex content is 18.2%. Obtain middle dark fabric as follows: 135 DEG C of * 60min dispersion dyeing �� 90 DEG C * 30min alkaline reduction washing (caustic soda 3g/L, vat powder 5g/L) �� 195 DEG C of arrangement sizings. The various performance parameters of gained fabric is in table 1.
Table 1
Claims (5)
1. dark fabric in a kind, it is characterized in that: this fabric is the woven or knitted fabrics at least containing terylene and spandex, wherein the content of spandex fibre is 3%��20%, and the L value of this fabric is 12��65, in the dry-cleaning colour fastness of this fabric recorded according to JISL0860 standard, variable color more than 3��4 grades, staining more than 3 grades, washing lotion pollute more than 3 grades.
2. middle dark fabric according to claim 1, is characterized in that: also containing cotton or viscose fiber in this fabric.
3. the production method of a middle dark fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: adopt the woven or knitting grey cloth at least containing terylene and spandex, wherein the content of spandex fibre is 3%��20%, comprises and obtains product as follows: dyeing �� alkaline reduction washing �� drying and shaping �� acidic reduction washing �� arrange sizing.
4. the production method of middle dark fabric according to claim 3, is characterized in that: the temperature of described drying and shaping is 160��180 DEG C.
5. the production method of dark fabric according to claim 3 or 4, is characterized in that: the described temperature shaped that arranges is not higher than 190 DEG C.
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| CN201410630929.2A CN105648616B (en) | 2014-11-11 | 2014-11-11 | Dark fabric and its production method in one kind |
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| CN201410630929.2A CN105648616B (en) | 2014-11-11 | 2014-11-11 | Dark fabric and its production method in one kind |
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Cited By (2)
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| CN113495022A (en) * | 2020-03-18 | 2021-10-12 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | Method for testing textile wet penetration spots |
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| CN108951229A (en) * | 2018-06-20 | 2018-12-07 | 福建石狮晨光化纤染织有限公司 | A kind of dyeing of terylene |
| CN113495022A (en) * | 2020-03-18 | 2021-10-12 | 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 | Method for testing textile wet penetration spots |
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