CN105640793B - 一种用于制备护肤霜的组合物、包含该组合物的护肤霜及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种用于制备护肤霜的组合物、包含该组合物的护肤霜及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN105640793B CN105640793B CN201610041536.7A CN201610041536A CN105640793B CN 105640793 B CN105640793 B CN 105640793B CN 201610041536 A CN201610041536 A CN 201610041536A CN 105640793 B CN105640793 B CN 105640793B
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种用于制备护肤霜的组合物，以护肤霜总重量计，它至少包括下述质量百分比的原料：0.001％‑0.1wt％叶酸、0.1‑1.5wt％泛醇和0.1‑2wt％生育酚乙酸酯。本发明还公开了包括上述组合物的护肤霜及制备方法。本发明护肤霜配方中添加叶酸、泛醇和生育酚乙酸酯，相互协调配合作用，能够有效滋润皮肤，减少皮肤干裂、干纹，且能减少皮肤细纹和增加皮肤弹性。配方安全，实施简单，适合人们日常使用。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于日用化学品领域。更具体地，涉及一种用于制备护肤霜的组合物、包含该组合物的护肤霜及其制备方法。
背景技术
护肤霜是人们生活中用于保养皮肤的必需品。护肤霜通常包括：保湿型护肤霜、美白型护肤霜和修复型护肤霜。其中，保湿型护肤霜偏重于使皮肤高度滋润保湿；美白型护肤霜主要是使肌肤白皙、皮肤细滑、光润；修复型护肤霜的主要作用在于修复因老化而布满纹路的皮肤。
中国专利CN103417395A公开了一种柔嫩护手霜，包含泛酰醇、尿素、维生素E、维生素B3、亚油酸、神经酰胺及雪亚脂。该护手霜具有补水保湿、可有效护理手部常见问题，如干裂、皮屑等。
中国专利CN103432039A公开了一种修复护肤霜，该护肤霜包括0.4-0.6份沙棘籽油,0.3-0.7份角鲨烷,8-12份异硬脂酸异丙酯,6-10份甘油,2-3份吐温60,50-80份水。该护肤霜能够滋养皮肤、促进新陈代谢、抗过敏,杀菌消炎,促进上皮细胞再生,对皮肤有修复作用。
中国专利CN101040832公开了一种美白护肤霜，该护肤霜由以下重量百分比的组分组成：1.5～5份硬脂酸,1～4份十六醇,1～3份单甘酯,0.5～2份硅油,3～9％份棕榈酸异丙酯,8～12份甘油,0.3～2份薏米提取物,0.3～2份香精,水余量。该护肤霜可使肌肤白皙,还能使皮肤角质软化,对皮肤赘疣、粗糙不光滑者,也有滋润功效。
但是上述护肤霜产品的功能上都比较单一。随着人们生活水平的提高，护肤霜已经不再局限于单一的功效，都希望在保持皮肤湿润的同时，还能用来防止皮肤皲裂，还能减少皮肤细纹，还能增加皮肤弹性等多重功效。
综上所述，发明一种能安全滋润皮肤，减少皮肤干裂、干纹，减少皮肤细纹，增加皮肤弹性的护肤霜是消费者所期许的，才能很好的满足人们日常肌肤护理的需求，特别是敏感肌肤和孕产妇特殊人群。
发明内容
本发明的第一个目的是提供一种用于制备护肤霜的组合物，该组合物用在护肤霜中，能滋润皮肤，能用来防止皮肤皲裂，能减少皮肤细纹和增加皮肤弹性。
本发明的第二个目的是提供一种包含上述组合物的护肤霜。该护肤霜能滋润皮肤，能用来防止皮肤皲裂，能减少皮肤细纹和增加皮肤弹性。
本发明的第三个目的是提供一种包含上述组合物的护肤霜的制备方法。
为达到上述第一个目的，本发明采用下述技术方案：
一种用于制备护肤霜的组合物，以护肤霜总重量计，它至少包括下述质量百分比的原料：0.001％-0.1wt％叶酸，0.1-1.5wt％泛醇，0.1-2wt％生育酚乙酸酯。
其中，叶酸(FolicAcid)是人体在利用糖分和氨基酸时的必要物质，是机体细胞生长和繁殖所必需的物质。在体内叶酸以四氢叶酸的形式起作用，四氢叶酸在体内参与嘌呤核酸和嘧啶核苷酸的合成和转化。叶酸在制造核酸(核糖核酸、脱氧核糖核酸)上扮演重要的角色。叶酸帮助蛋白质的代谢，并与维生素B12共同促进红细胞的生成和成熟，是制造红血球不可缺少的物质。叶酸也作为干酪乳杆菌(Lactobacillus casei)及其它微生物的促进增殖因子而起作用。
泛醇，亦称维生素B5，具有很高的生理活性，人体吸收后，会转化为D-泛酸-辅酶A合成前体，呈现维生素的生物活性，是一种渗透性好的润湿剂和调节剂。
生育酚乙酸酯，是优异的抗氧化剂，能清除人体自由基，可防护皮肤免受化学性污染所导致的伤害。
本发明意外的发现，将叶酸、泛醇和生育酚乙酸酯组合加入到护肤霜中，三者的协同作用既能滋润皮肤，也能用来防止皮肤皲裂，并能减少皮肤细纹和增加皮肤弹性。
进一步地，所述组合物中还包括0.4％-20wt％乳木果油。乳木果油除了做为优良的保湿剂和调理剂外，还是一种具有突出治疗功效的助剂。乳木果油中蕴含的维生素A对许多皮肤缺陷如褶皱、湿疹等的祛除都有重要的改进功效；优质的乳木果油对医治皮肤过敏症、皮肤干裂、皮肤溃疡、各类皮肤炎症、虫咬以及皮肤烧伤等均有改善作用。
进一步地，所述组合物中还包括0.03％-0.2wt％透明质酸钠。透明质酸钠是高分子酸性粘多糖，广泛存在于动物和人体结缔组织细胞外基质中。透明质酸钠最重要的生理功能是其保水作用，透明质酸钠在水溶液中高度伸展和随机卷曲的构型使其占有很大的区域，而且分子链之间互相缠绕形成连续的网状结构，使得透明质酸钠像“分子海绵”一样，可以吸收和保持其自身重量上千倍的水分。
进一步地，所述组合物中还包括0.1％-1wt％卵磷脂。卵磷脂是一种含类脂的化合物，它是构成细胞生物膜的基本组成成分，具有较高的营养价值和生理调节机能，并且作为一种天然的表面活性剂，具有乳化、分散、润湿等作用，在食品、医药、化妆品等行业有着非常广泛的作用。
为达到上述第二个目的，本发明提供了一种包含上述组合物的护肤霜，以护肤霜总重100份计，包括如下重量份数的原料：
乳木果油0.4-20份、透明质酸钠0.03-0.2份、卵磷脂0.3-1份、叶酸0.001-0.1份、泛醇0.1-1.5份、生育酚乙酸酯0.1-2份、蜂蜡2-4份、小麦胚芽油3-5份、棕榈酸乙基己酯4-8份、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷1-1.5份、尿囊素0.1-0.3份、鲸蜡硬脂醇3-6份、海藻糖1-3份、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯4-8份、甘油5-10份、1,2-己二醇0.5份、对羟基苯乙酮0.5份，水余量。
另一种包含上述组合物的护肤霜，以护肤霜总重100份计，包括如下重量份数的原料：
乳木果油0.4-20份、卵磷脂0.1-1份、叶酸0.001-0.1份、泛醇0.1-1.5份，生育酚乙酸酯0.1-2份、鲸蜡硬脂醇3-6份、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯4-8份、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷1-1.5份、尿囊素0.1-0.3份、小麦胚芽油3-5份、甘油5-10份、羟苯甲酯0.2份、羟苯丙酯0.1份、水余量。
又一种包含上述组合物的护肤霜，以护肤霜总重100份计，包括如下重量份数的原料：
乳木果油0.4-20份、透明质酸钠0.03-0.2份、叶酸0.001-0.1份、泛醇0.1-1.5份、生育酚乙酸酯0.1-2份、棕榈酸乙基己酯4-8份、鳄梨油3-5份、鲸蜡硬脂醇硫酸酯钠1-1.5份、尿囊素0.1-0.3份、鲸蜡硬脂醇3-6份、蜂蜡2-4份、甘油5-10份、羟苯甲酯0.2份、羟苯丙酯0.1份，水余量。
再一种包含上述组合物的护肤霜，以护肤霜总重100份计，包括如下重量份数的原料：
乳木果油0.4-20份、透明质酸钠0.03-0.2份、叶酸0.001-0.1份、泛醇0.1-1.5份、生育酚乙酸酯0.1-2份、鲸蜡硬脂醇3-6份，蜂蜡2-4份、鳄梨油3-5份、鲸蜡硬脂醇硫酸酯钠1-1.5份、尿囊素0.1-0.3份、海藻糖1-3份、甘油5-10份、羟苯甲酯0.2份、羟苯丙酯0.1份，水余量。
为达到上述第三个目的，本发明提供了一种包含上述组合物的护肤霜的制备方法，包括如下步骤：
1)将水相原料混合搅拌，升温至70-85℃，得到水相混合液；
2)将油相原料混合搅拌，并升温至70-85℃，得到油相混合液；
3)将水相混合液加入到反应罐中，再将油相加入到反应罐中，搅拌，均质乳化5-8分钟，降温至35℃-45℃，加入低温防腐剂(如果有)、叶酸和泛醇搅拌均匀，形成膏霜，即得护肤霜产品。
所述水、甘油、羟苯甲酯、透明质酸钠、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷、尿囊素、鲸蜡硬脂醇硫酸酯钠、海藻糖、对羟基苯乙酮为水相原料。
所述蜂蜡、小麦胚芽油、羟苯丙酯、生育酚乙酸酯、乳木果油、卵磷脂、鲸蜡硬脂醇、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、棕榈酸乙基己酯、鳄梨油为油相原料。
所述1,2-己二醇为低温防腐剂。
本发明的有益效果如下：
本发明配方中添加叶酸、泛醇和生育酚乙酸酯，相互协调配合作用，能够有效滋润皮肤，减少皮肤干裂、干纹，且能减少皮肤细纹和增加皮肤弹性。配方安全，实施简单，适合人们日常使用。
具体实施方式
为了更清楚地说明本发明，下面结合优选实施例对本发明做进一步的说明。本领域技术人员应当理解，下面所具体描述的内容是说明性的而非限制性的，不应以此限制本发明的保护范围。
实施例1
一种护肤霜，配方组成：以100g原料计：
乳木果油3g、透明质酸钠0.03g、卵磷脂0.3g、叶酸0.06g、泛醇0.5g、生育酚乙酸酯0.5g、蜂蜡4g、小麦胚芽油3g、棕榈酸乙基己酯4g、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷1.2g、尿囊素0.2g、鲸蜡硬脂醇3g、海藻糖1g、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯4g、甘油8g、1,2-己二醇0.5g、对羟基苯乙酮0.5g，水余量。
上述护肤霜的制备方法，包括下述步骤：
将上述重量份数的水相原料(水、透明质酸钠、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷、尿囊素、甘油、对羟基苯乙酮、海藻糖)加入水罐，升温至70℃；将油相原料(蜂蜡、小麦胚芽油、生育酚乙酸酯、棕榈酸乙基己酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、乳木果油、卵磷脂、鲸蜡硬脂醇)加入油罐，并升温至70℃；然后将水相抽入主反应罐，再将油相抽入主反应罐，同时开启搅拌，均质乳化5分钟然后降温至35℃℃，加入上述重量份数的1,2-己二醇、叶酸和泛醇搅拌均匀，形成膏霜，即得护肤霜产品。
实施例2
一种护肤霜，配方组成：以100g原料计：
乳木果油20g、卵磷脂1.0g、叶酸0.001g、泛醇1.5g、生育酚乙酸酯2g、鲸蜡硬脂醇6g、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯8g、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷1.5g、尿囊素0.2g、小麦胚芽油5g、甘油10g,、羟苯甲酯0.2g、羟苯丙酯0.1g，水余量。
上述护肤霜的制备方法，包括下述步骤：
将上述重量份数的水相原料(水、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷、尿囊素、甘油、羟苯甲酯)加入水罐，升温至85℃；将上述重量份数的油相原料(生育酚乙酸酯、小麦胚芽油、鲸蜡硬脂醇、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、乳木果油、卵磷脂、羟苯丙酯)加入油罐，并升温至85℃；然后将水相抽入主罐，再将油相抽入主罐，同时开启搅拌，均质乳化8分钟然后降温至45℃，加入上述重量份数的叶酸、泛醇等搅拌均匀，形成膏霜，即得护肤霜产品。
实施例3
一种护肤霜，配方组成：以100g原料计：
乳木果油0.5g、透明质酸钠0.2g、叶酸0.1g、泛醇0.1g、生育酚乙酸酯0.1g、棕榈酸乙基己酯8g、鳄梨油3g、鲸蜡硬脂醇硫酸酯钠1.0g、尿囊素0.1g、鲸蜡硬脂醇3g、蜂蜡2g、甘油5g,、羟苯甲酯0.2g、羟苯丙酯0.1g，水余量。
上述护肤霜的制备方法，包括下述步骤：
将上述重量份数的水相原料(水、羟苯甲酯、甘油、透明质酸钠、鲸蜡硬脂醇硫酸酯钠、尿囊素)加入水罐，升温至80℃；将上述重量份数的油相原料(鲸蜡硬脂醇、棕榈酸乙基己酯、羟苯丙酯、生育酚乙酸酯、乳木果油、鳄梨油、蜂蜡)加入油罐，并升温至80℃；然后将水相抽入主反应罐，再将油相抽入主反应罐，同时开启搅拌，均质乳化7分钟然后降温至40℃，加入上述重量份数的叶酸和泛醇搅拌均匀，形成膏霜，即得护肤霜产品。
实施例4
一种护肤霜，配方组成：以100g原料计：
乳木果油3g、透明质酸钠0.03g、叶酸0.06g、泛醇0.1g、生育酚乙酸酯0.5g、鲸蜡硬脂醇3g、蜂蜡3g、鳄梨油5g、鲸蜡硬脂醇硫酸酯钠1.5g、尿囊素0.3g、海藻糖3g、甘油8g、羟苯甲酯0.2g、羟苯丙酯0.1g，水余量。
上述护肤霜的制备方法，包括下述步骤：
将上述重量份数的水相原料(水、透明质酸钠、鲸蜡硬脂醇硫酸酯钠、甘油、羟苯甲酯、尿囊素、海藻糖)加入水罐，升温至75℃；将上述重量份数的油相原料(蜂蜡、鳄梨油、生育酚乙酸酯、乳木果油、鲸蜡硬脂醇和羟苯丙酯)加入油罐，并升温至75℃；然后将水相抽入主罐，再将油相抽入主罐，同时开启搅拌，均质乳化6分钟然后降温至40℃，加入上述重量份数的叶酸、泛醇搅拌均匀，形成膏霜，即得护肤霜产品。
将实施例1～4制备的护肤霜连续5个批次产品按照中华人民共和国轻工业标准QB/T 1857-2013对感官、理化、卫生相关标准进行检验，结果表明制得的护肤霜符合润肤膏霜标准的各项要求。将制得的护肤霜经男女各6人(其中干性肌肤4人，中性肌肤5，油性肌肤3人)进行手臂内侧皮肤测试。结果发现：该膏霜涂抹后均易被皮肤吸收，然后能在皮肤表面形成一层保护膜，不黏腻、不刺激并且使皮肤柔软滋润。连续使用一周，皮肤有明显改善，皮肤柔软、湿润、无干纹，皮肤细纹减少且皮肤弹性增加。
对比例1
一种护肤霜，配方组成：以100g原料计：
乳木果油3g、透明质酸钠0.03g、卵磷脂0.3g、泛醇0.56g、生育酚乙酸酯0.5g、蜂蜡4g、小麦胚芽油3g、棕榈酸乙基己酯4g、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷1.2g、尿囊素0.2g、鲸蜡硬脂醇3g、海藻糖1g、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯4g、甘油8g、1,2-己二醇0.5g、对羟基苯乙酮0.5g,水余量。
将上述原料按实施例1的制备方法制得护肤霜D1产品。
对比例2
一种护肤霜，配方组成：以100g原料计：
乳木果油3g、透明质酸钠0.03g、卵磷脂0.3g、叶酸0.06g、生育酚乙酸酯1g、蜂蜡4g、小麦胚芽油3g、棕榈酸乙基己酯4g、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷1.2g、尿囊素0.2g、鲸蜡硬脂醇3g、海藻糖1g、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯4g、甘油8g、1,2-己二醇0.5g、对羟基苯乙酮0.5g,水余量。
将上述原料按实施例1的制备方法制得护肤霜D2产品。
对比例3
一种护肤霜，配方组成：以100g原料计：
乳木果油3g、透明质酸钠0.03g、卵磷脂0.3g、叶酸0.06g、泛醇1g、蜂蜡4g、小麦胚芽油3g、棕榈酸乙基己酯4g、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷1.2g、尿囊素0.2g、鲸蜡硬脂醇3g、海藻糖1g、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯4g、甘油8g、1,2-己二醇0.5g、对羟基苯乙酮0.5g,水余量。
将上述原料按实施例1的制备方法制得护肤霜D3产品。
试验例1
以实施例1和对比例1-3生产的护肤霜进行效果试验评价。
试验人群：选取干性肌肤40人，中性肌肤40人，油性肌肤40人，年龄30-35周岁女性。
试验样品：实施例1护肤霜为1号样品，对比例1护肤霜为D1号样品，对比例2护肤霜为D2号样品，对比例3护肤霜为D3号样品。
试验方法：试验人群每天早上、中午和睡前清洗完毕手臂内侧皮肤后，将1号样品、D1号样品、D2号样品和D3号样品分别涂覆于10位干性肌肤试验者的手臂内侧皮肤、10位中性肌肤试验者的手臂内侧皮肤、10位油性肌肤试验者的手臂内侧3*3cm2皮肤，连续涂覆一周。
1)皮肤水分检测方法如下：使用皮肤水分检测仪器(Cornemeter CM825皮肤水分测试仪，德国CK公司)进行皮肤水份检测。受试者在手臂内侧实验区域涂抹样品，一周后测试受试区域的皮肤水份含量。
2)皮肤裂纹检测方法如下：直接肉眼评判。
3)皮肤细纹检测方法如下：照片等级评分。采用正面和左右两面45度拍摄，即每位受试者拍摄3张照片，对每个部位的细纹进行等级评分，5分为满分。
4)皮肤弹性检测方法如下：使用皮肤弹性测试仪(Cutometer MPA580,德国CK公司)对皮肤弹性进行检测。
1号样品与D1号样品检测试验数据如下表1：
通过上表1可以看出，缺少叶酸的样品在皮肤水分、皮肤细纹和皮肤弹性方面都有不同程度的下降。
1号样品与D2号样品检测试验数据如下表2：
通过上表2可以看出，缺少泛醇的样品在皮肤水分、皮肤细纹、皮肤裂纹和皮肤弹性方面效果都有不同程度的下降。
1号样品与D3号样品检测试验数据如下表3：
通过上表3可以看出，缺少生育酚乙酸酯的样品在皮肤水分、皮肤细纹和皮肤弹性方面效果都有不同程度的下降。
结论：
包括下述质量百分比的原料：0.001％-0.1wt％叶酸，0.1-1.5wt％泛醇和0.1-2wt％生育酚乙酸酯之间相互配合，协同作用，使其在护肤霜中的作用效果最优，缺少任何一种原料都会使护肤效果在某些方面有不同程度的减弱。本发明的产品在皮肤水分、皮肤裂纹、皮肤细纹、皮肤弹性等方面都具有优良的效果。
显然，本发明的上述实施例仅仅是为清楚地说明本发明所作的举例，而并非是对本发明的实施方式的限定，对于所属领域的普通技术人员来说，在上述说明的基础上还可以做出其它不同形式的变化或变动，这里无法对所有的实施方式予以穷举，凡是属于本发明的技术方案所引伸出的显而易见的变化或变动仍处于本发明的保护范围之列。
Claims (2)
1.一种护肤霜，其特征在于：以护肤霜总重100份计，包括如下重量份数的原料：
乳木果油0.4-20份、透明质酸钠0.03-0.2份、卵磷脂0.3-1份、叶酸0.001-0.1份、泛醇0.1-1.5份、生育酚乙酸酯0.1-2份、蜂蜡2-4份、小麦胚芽油3-5份、棕榈酸乙基己酯4-8份、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷1-1.5份、尿囊素0.1-0.3份、鲸蜡硬脂醇3-6、海藻糖1-3份、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯4-8份、甘油5-10份、1,2-己二醇0.5份、对羟基苯乙酮0.5份，水余量。
2.一种如权利要求1所述护肤霜的制备方法，包括如下步骤：
1）将水、透明质酸钠、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷、尿囊素、甘油、对羟基苯乙酮和海藻糖混合搅拌，升温至70-85℃，得到水相混合液；
2）将蜂蜡、小麦胚芽油、生育酚乙酸酯、棕榈酸乙基己酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、乳木果油、卵磷脂和鲸蜡硬脂醇混合搅拌，并升温至70-85℃，得到油相混合液；
3）将水相混合液加入到反应罐中，再将油相混合液加入到反应罐中，搅拌，均质乳化5-8分钟，降温至35℃-45℃，加入1,2-己二醇、叶酸和泛醇搅拌均匀，形成膏霜，即得护肤霜产品。
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