CN105560127A - 一种天然色素cc霜及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种天然色素cc霜及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN105560127A CN105560127A CN201610112851.4A CN201610112851A CN105560127A CN 105560127 A CN105560127 A CN 105560127A CN 201610112851 A CN201610112851 A CN 201610112851A CN 105560127 A CN105560127 A CN 105560127A
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种天然色素CC霜及其制备方法，是以化妆品乳化理论为基础筛选基质配方，与多种美白活性成分、保湿剂、防晒剂进行复配，并添加桑黄醇提物、辣椒红色素，制备出集遮瑕、美白、保湿、隔离防晒、抗氧化和修护为一体的CC霜。同时对产品的感官指标、理化指标、酪氨酸酶活性抑制、抗氧化、抗炎修护以及防晒等功效进行了研究。
Description
一、技术领域
本发明涉及一种CC霜及其制备方法，具体地说是一种天然色素CC霜及其制备方法。
二、背景技术
Colorcontrolcream简称CC霜，又名色彩调控全效修容霜，顾名思义，CC霜的突出特点就在于其调控肤色能力。与BB霜主打遮瑕、隔离美白相比，CC霜更倾向于敏感问题肌肤、亚健康状态的修复保养，适于长期使用从本质上调整改善肤质肤色。其短期遮瑕效果虽不如BB霜明显，但偏向于清透自然健康的提亮肤色效果；同时倾向于隔离紫外线及灰尘，有效抵御物理性伤害，舒缓肌肤压力。因此，CC霜是一款富含更多营养成分，倾向于防护修容的美妆产品。
人体皮肤颜色主要与皮肤中黑色素的数量、大小、类型及分布有关。黑色素是黑色素细胞内的酪氨酸在酪氨酸酶、多巴色素互变酶和5,6-二羟基吲哚-2-羧酸氧化酶(DHICA氧化酶)三种酶的作用下，氧化成多巴、多巴醌、多巴色素等，最终转化为黑色素颗粒，其中酪氨酸酶起关键性作用。该CC霜配方中添加了维生素C乙基醚和烟酰胺等美白活性成分。维生素C乙基醚能够抑制酪氨酸酶的Cu2+活性，阻断黑色素的形成，改善皮肤色泽；同时还能够促进胶原蛋白产生，增加皮肤弹性，相对普通的维生素C具有极高的稳定性且容易穿透角质层进入真皮层。烟酰胺又名维生素B3，是维生素家庭中重要一员。当黑色素被传递到角质细胞时，皮肤就会看上去变黑，而烟酰胺正是作用于已经产生的黑色素，有效抑制约35％～40％的黑色素从黑色素细胞向角质细胞传递，从而减少过度色素沉积。临床试验证明，使用含有烟酰胺的润肤霜能明显减少皮肤棕色斑点的面积和数量，用肉眼即可分辨出色斑颜色的浅化。
几乎所有的人工合成色素都不能为人体提供营养物质，某些合成色素甚至会危害人体健康。化妆品中所用的色素多数属焦油衍生物，长期使用会对光线发生敏感反应，导致色素沉着，在正常皮肤上出现褐色斑点；色素还是导致人们对化妆品过敏的重要原因之一，常常引起烧灼、瘙痒、表皮剥脱、轻微疼痛等过敏症状，并伴有皮肤潮红、丘疹等炎症现象，严重影响形象，这与人类使用化妆品的初衷背道而驰。本发明的CC霜中以桑黄醇提物和辣椒红色素为着色剂，不含人工合成色素。桑黄醇提物为黄色固体粉末，加入膏霜中可使产品呈亮黄色；其富含黄酮、三萜和酚类等物质，具有抑制酪氨酸酶活性和清除自由基的作用，从而发挥美白抗衰老的功效；桑黄醇提物对UVB、UVA波段具有一定的吸收能力，添加到CC霜中协助防晒剂发挥隔离防晒的功效，间接发挥美白防晒黑的作用；另有文献报道，桑黄作为我国名贵药材，亦具有抗肿瘤、抗炎、增强免疫等作用，因此添加桑黄醇提物到该产品中，在提亮肤色的同时具备了舒缓修护，提高肌肤免疫力的功效。辣椒红色素是一种采用科学方法从辣椒果实中提取、分离、精制而成的天然色素，为深红色油溶性液体，没有辣味，色泽鲜艳，着色力强，耐光、热、酸、碱，且不受金属离子影响。研究表明，辣椒红色素最主要的成分是辣椒红素、辣椒玉红素，同时富含脂肪酸、β-胡萝卜素、维生素E和维生素C等活性物质，具有镇痛、止痒、抗炎、抑菌、脂质过氧化调节、心肌保护、减肥等生理功能和持久的强消炎镇痛作用，现已被广泛应用于食品餐饮、医药工业、饲料等领域，亦可用于化妆品的生产。作为助颜美容成分，辣椒红色素是类胡萝卜素的一种，也是热门的抗氧化剂。
把桑黄醇提物与辣椒红色素作为着色剂添加到发明的产品配方中，与无机纳米二氧化钛共同调配出CC霜的色彩，使得本发明产品不仅具有多种美容功效，且涂抹后肌肤白皙、清透、自然，达到调控色彩、全效修容的效果。
三、发明内容
本发明旨在提供一种天然色素CC霜及其制备方法。本发明以化妆品乳化理论为基础筛选基质配方，与多种美白活性成分、保湿剂、防晒剂进行复配，并添加桑黄醇提物、辣椒红色素，制备出集遮瑕、美白、保湿、隔离防晒、抗氧化和修护为一体的CC霜。同时对产品的感官指标、理化指标、酪氨酸酶活性抑制、抗氧化、抗炎修护以及防晒等功效进行了研究。
本发明天然色素CC霜的原料是由A相、B相、C相、D相及E相构成，各原料配比为：
控制原料总量为100g。
本发明CC霜的制备方法如下：
(1)将A相置于75-80℃水浴锅中搅拌25-30min，使固状物溶解，得到混合料A；将B相中的卡波姆-2020在水中预先分散均匀后再加入B相其它原料，然后置于75-80℃水浴锅中搅拌25-30min，使固状物溶解，得到混合料B；将C、D、E相中各原料分别预先混合搅拌均匀得到混合料C、混合料D及混合料E；
(2)将混合料B、混合料C及混合料D加入到混合料A中，在75-80℃下快速搅拌25-30min，随后开始减速降温，降温至40-45℃时加入混合料E，搅拌均匀，继续降温至30-35℃时停止搅拌，出料，即得CC霜。在降温过程中补加蒸馏水以使成品总质量为100g。
本发明CC霜是O/W(水包油)型乳化体系。该CC霜中添加了月桂酸己酯作为油性成分，更能润滑肌肤，提升产品的质感；绣线菊油是目前已知的最稳定的植物油脂，且具有很高的抗氧化能力，也已被公认具有极高的保湿滋润能力。在油相成分中添加了四种防晒成分阿伏苯宗(丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰基甲烷)、二苯酮-3、甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯、TiO2M(100TV)(二氧化钛和氢氧化铝和硬脂酸)。阿伏苯宗在320-400nm有很强的吸收；二苯酮-3在280-360nm有较好吸收；甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯是目前应用最为广泛的UVB防护剂，在280-320nm有强吸收；表面处理的纳米TiO2在整个UVB、UVA段都有良好吸收，所以该产品对UVB、UVA区都有很好的防护作用，能够有效避免皮肤受到紫外线的伤害。
本发明CC霜添加D-泛醇、透明质酸钠、维生素C乙基醚、烟酰胺、维生素A棕榈酸酯等活性成分。D-泛醇又被称为维生素原B5，比泛酸更容易渗透进角质层，并在体内迅速转化为泛酸，有较强的保湿作用，有助于舒缓皮肤不适、瘙痒，刺激表皮细胞生长；透明质酸钠能帮助肌肤汲取大量的水分，可瞬间深层保湿、增加皮肤弹性与张力，有助恢复肌肤正常油水平衡，改善干燥及松弛皮肤；维生素C乙基醚是一种亲油亲水的维生素C衍生物，容易穿透角质层进入真皮层，达到深层美白效果，拥有生物利用度很高且性质稳定等特点；烟酰胺是一种水溶性B族维生素，能够有效抑制约35％-40％的黑色素从黑色素细胞向角质细胞传递，减少过度色素沉积从而达到美白作用；维生素A棕榈酸酯具有调节表皮及角质层新陈代谢的功效，作营养成分添加剂，能防止皮肤粗糙，促进正常生长发育，抗衰、去皱。多种保湿、美白成分的添加，使得该款CC霜赋予肌肤不仅是外在的修饰，更是深层的保养和呵护。
本发明添加的桑黄醇提物在200-450nm都具有广泛的紫外-可见光吸收能力(图2)，辣椒红色素在300-550nm也具有广泛的紫外-可见光吸收能力(图3)，二者按不同比例加入产品中，能增强产品的防晒功效，并可调配出与肤色较为接近的偏黄至略微泛红的色泽，完全替代人工合成色素，从而减少对肌肤的刺激作用。
四、附图说明
图1是0.75mg/cm2的CC霜紫外吸收光谱图。
图2是浓度为5.0×10-2mg/mL桑黄醇提物的紫外可见吸收光谱图(溶剂：65vt％乙醇水溶液)。
图3是浓度为2.0mg/mL辣椒红色素的紫外可见吸收光谱图(溶剂：无水乙醇)。
五、具体实施方式
原料说明：
聚二甲基硅氧烷、环五聚二甲基硅氧烷，购自美国MOMENTIVE公司；
PEG-100硬脂酸酯购自英国CRODA公司；
PEG-20甲基葡萄糖苷倍半硬脂酸酯、甲基葡萄糖苷倍半硬脂酸酯，购自杭州德高化工开发有限公司；
十六十八醇(十六醇/十八醇＝22-32/66-76)购自上海倍特化工有限公司；
甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯、阿伏苯宗、二苯酮-3、TiO2M(100TV)、C12-15醇苯甲酸酯，购自英国悠立朴华公司；
卡波姆-2020购自美国LUBRIZOL公司；
D-泛醇、维生素C乙基醚、烟酰胺、维生素A棕榈酸酯购自北京贝丽莱斯生物化学有限公司；
透明质酸钠，化妆品级，分子量139万，购自华熙福瑞达生物医药有限公司；
PCG：1,2-辛二醇和2-苯氧基乙醇的混合物，购自南京斯拜科生化实业有限公司；
绣线菊油、月桂酸己酯，购自广州华图化妆品科技有限公司；
桑黄醇提物由六安丹皇生物科技有限责任公司提供；
辣椒红色素由亳州市宇惠天然制品有限公司提供，色价e100。
实施例1：
1、天然色素CC霜的配方如下：
原料总质量为100g。
2、CC霜的制备：
将A相置于75-80℃水浴锅中搅拌25-30min，使固状物溶解，得到混合料A；将B相中的卡波姆-2020在水中预先分散均匀后再加入B相其它原料，然后置于75-80℃水浴锅中搅拌25-30min，使固状物溶解，得到混合料B；将C、D、E相中各原料分别预先混合搅拌均匀得到混合料C、混合料D及混合料E；
将混合料B、混合料C及混合料D加入到混合料A中，在75-80℃下快速搅拌25-30min，随后开始减速降温，降温至40-45℃时加入混合料E，搅拌均匀，继续降温至30-35℃时停止搅拌，出料，即得CC霜。在降温过程中补加蒸馏水以使成品总质量为100g。
3、性能测试
1)感观性能评定
取CC霜在室温和非阳光直射下目测观察膏体是否细腻，色泽是否均匀一致；用嗅觉鉴别气味是否纯正。
2)pH值的测试
称取CC霜样品3g，放入盛有30mL除去CO2的去离子水的烧杯中，在40±1℃下分散均匀。用校正好的pH计测定CC霜水溶液的pH值，测定温度20℃。
3)耐热、耐寒测试
将CC霜样品放置于45℃的恒温烘箱和-10℃的冰箱冷冻室中24h后取出，恢复室温后观察是否有分层、沉淀或出水现象。
4)对酪氨酸酶活性抑制作用
称取CC霜0.25g，用乙醇溶解后配制质量浓度为5mg/mL的待测样品溶液，进行酪氨酸酶活性抑制测试。
分别配置pH＝6.8的磷酸盐缓冲液(PBS)，1mg/mL的L-酪氨酸溶液，0.07mg/mL的酪氨酸酶溶液。按以下设置组加样：A1测试样：2.0mLPBS+2.0mL酪氨酸酶溶液+0.5mLL-酪氨酸溶液；A2测试样：2.5mLPBS+2.0mL酪氨酸酶溶液；A3测试样：0.5mL样品溶液+1.5mLPBS+2.0mL酪氨酸酶溶液+0.5mL-酪氨酸溶液；A4测试样：0.5mL样品溶液+2.0mLPBS+2.0mL酪氨酸酶溶液。混匀，置37℃水浴中保温30min后立即于485nm处测吸光度。根据式(1)计算酪氨酸酶抑制率I：
I＝[1－(A3－A4)/(A1－A2)]×100％(1)；
5)对DPPH·自由基的清除作用
称取CC霜0.25g，用纯水溶解后配制质量浓度为5mg/mL的待测样品溶液，进行抗氧化性测试。
分别取上述待测样品溶液和物质的量浓度为2.00×10-4mol/L的DPPH·乙醇溶液各3mL加入同一具塞试管中，摇匀，避光放置30min后，用紫外-可见分光光度计测定混合溶液在517nm处的吸光度Ai，同时测定3mL的纯水与3mL浓度为2.00×10-4mol/L的DPPH·乙醇溶液混合后的吸光度A0和3mL待测样品溶液与3mL无水乙醇混合后的吸光度Aj，根据式(2)计算清除率P：
P＝[1－(Ai－Aj)/A0]×100％(2)；
6)对皮肤修护作用的测试
在受试者左前臂内侧画三个一元钱币大小的圆圈，将润有适量10％的十二烷基硫酸钠(SDS)水溶液的圆形滤纸片贴敷于画好的圆圈上，轻压使之均匀地贴敷于受试者前臂内侧，并用保鲜膜包住，刺激24小时，取下滤纸片，半小时后观察皮肤变化，拍照并记录。然后一个圆圈内涂抹CC霜，一个圆圈内涂抹不加桑黄醇提物及辣椒红色素的基质霜，另一个圆圈不做任何处理为空白对照，每隔8小时观察记录各圆圈内受损皮肤变化情况，并再次涂抹相应产品，持续观察、操作3次，记录受试部位皮肤的状况变化。
7)CC霜防晒性能的测试
称取适量样品于贴有透气胶带的石英板上，然后戴上指套进行涂抹，涂抹时间不宜过长，但要尽力保证涂抹样品的均匀性，加样量及涂抹后样品剩余量用分析天平进行精确称量。涂抹了防晒样品的载体在常温下水平放置于无光线直射处干燥平衡20min，然后放入紫外-可见分光光度计中在280-400nm进行吸光度测试。
8)桑黄提取物和辣椒红色素的紫外吸收性能测试
以65vt％乙醇水溶液为溶剂，配制5.0×10-2mg/mL桑黄醇提物溶液，测定其在200-500nm处的吸光度。
以无水乙醇为溶剂，配制2.0mg/mL辣椒红色素溶液，测定其在300-600nm处的吸光度。
4、测试结果
1)感官及理化指标测定结果见下表：
2)对酪氨酸酶抑制率
该CC霜浓度5mg/mL时对酪氨酸酶活性抑制率为60.9％，说明样品具有一定的美白作用。
3)对DPPH·自由基的清除率
该CC霜浓度为5mg/mL时对DPPH·自由基的清除率为52.2％，说明样品具有一定的抗氧化性。
4)修护作用
注：圈1涂抹CC霜修复；圈2涂抹基质霜修复；圈3不做任何处理。
在被10％SDS水溶液刺激24h后皮肤红肿脱皮，涂抹本发明的CC霜24h后即可恢复正常；涂抹基质霜24h后消肿，但仍能观察到红斑；不做任何处理的皮肤则恢复较慢；由此说明添加了桑黄醇提物和辣椒红色素的CC霜具有更为明显的修护抗炎功效。
5)CC霜的紫外吸收性能
本发明CC霜的紫外吸收谱图如图1所示，从图中可以看出涂抹法测定的0.75mg/cm2CC霜在280-400nm均有较好吸收，说明其具有广谱防晒性能。
6)桑黄醇提物和辣椒红色素的紫外-可见吸收性能
5.0×10-2mg/mL的桑黄醇提物溶液的紫外-可见吸收谱图见图2，可以看出桑黄醇提物在整个紫外区域都有较好吸收，尤其在UVA区的吸收较强，在可见光区域400-450nm吸收逐渐减弱，最大吸收波长在384nm，加入CC霜中能增强产品的防晒能力，特别提升在UVA区的防护效果。2.0mg/mL的辣椒红色素溶液紫外-可见吸收谱图见图3，可以看出辣椒红色素溶液在可见光区域内400-550nm有强吸收。因此辣椒红色素和桑黄醇提物作为色素原料添加到配方中，不仅可制备出接近亚洲人肤色的CC霜，同时能够增强该产品的吸收紫外线能力，提高产品的防晒效果。
Claims (3)
1.一种天然色素CC霜，其原料是由A相、B相、C相、D相及E相构成，各原料配比为：
控制原料总量为100g。
2.一种权利要求1所述的天然色素CC霜的制备方法，其特征在于包括如下步骤：
(1)将A相置于75-80℃水浴锅中搅拌25-30min，使固状物溶解，得到混合料A；将B相中的卡波姆-2020在水中预先分散均匀后再加入B相其它原料，然后置于75-80℃水浴锅中搅拌25-30min，使固状物溶解，得到混合料B；将C、D、E相中各原料分别预先混合搅拌均匀得到混合料C、混合料D及混合料E；
(2)将混合料B、混合料C及混合料D加入到混合料A中，在75-80℃下快速搅拌25-30min，随后开始减速降温，降温至40-45℃时加入混合料E，搅拌均匀，继续降温至30-35℃时停止搅拌，出料，即得CC霜。
3.根据权利要求2所述的制备方法，其特征在于：
步骤(2)在降温过程中补加蒸馏水以使成品总质量为100g。
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| CN110200874A (zh) * | 2019-07-08 | 2019-09-06 | 卢琛 | 一种美白祛斑霜及其制备方法 |
| CN110464664A (zh) * | 2019-09-12 | 2019-11-19 | 陈晓彤 | 一种天然色素粉底组合物及其制备方法 |
| US20220249347A1 (en) * | 2021-02-10 | 2022-08-11 | TRI-K Industries, Inc. | Composition and Method Containing Pea and Quinoa Natural Peptides And Niacinamide to Enhance Skin Glow, Radiance And Even Skin Tone |
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