CN105560127A - 一种天然色素cc霜及其制备方法 - Google Patents

一种天然色素cc霜及其制备方法 Download PDF

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CN105560127A
CN105560127A CN201610112851.4A CN201610112851A CN105560127A CN 105560127 A CN105560127 A CN 105560127A CN 201610112851 A CN201610112851 A CN 201610112851A CN 105560127 A CN105560127 A CN 105560127A
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王雪梅
沈雪梅
周莹
王荣庆
张斯琪
刘亚华
黄蓓
郭姝宜
朱玉洁
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Anhui University
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种天然色素CC霜及其制备方法,是以化妆品乳化理论为基础筛选基质配方,与多种美白活性成分、保湿剂、防晒剂进行复配,并添加桑黄醇提物、辣椒红色素,制备出集遮瑕、美白、保湿、隔离防晒、抗氧化和修护为一体的CC霜。同时对产品的感官指标、理化指标、酪氨酸酶活性抑制、抗氧化、抗炎修护以及防晒等功效进行了研究。

Description

一种天然色素CC霜及其制备方法
一、技术领域
本发明涉及一种CC霜及其制备方法,具体地说是一种天然色素CC霜及其制备方法。
二、背景技术
Colorcontrolcream简称CC霜,又名色彩调控全效修容霜,顾名思义,CC霜的突出特点就在于其调控肤色能力。与BB霜主打遮瑕、隔离美白相比,CC霜更倾向于敏感问题肌肤、亚健康状态的修复保养,适于长期使用从本质上调整改善肤质肤色。其短期遮瑕效果虽不如BB霜明显,但偏向于清透自然健康的提亮肤色效果;同时倾向于隔离紫外线及灰尘,有效抵御物理性伤害,舒缓肌肤压力。因此,CC霜是一款富含更多营养成分,倾向于防护修容的美妆产品。
人体皮肤颜色主要与皮肤中黑色素的数量、大小、类型及分布有关。黑色素是黑色素细胞内的酪氨酸在酪氨酸酶、多巴色素互变酶和5,6-二羟基吲哚-2-羧酸氧化酶(DHICA氧化酶)三种酶的作用下,氧化成多巴、多巴醌、多巴色素等,最终转化为黑色素颗粒,其中酪氨酸酶起关键性作用。该CC霜配方中添加了维生素C乙基醚和烟酰胺等美白活性成分。维生素C乙基醚能够抑制酪氨酸酶的Cu2+活性,阻断黑色素的形成,改善皮肤色泽;同时还能够促进胶原蛋白产生,增加皮肤弹性,相对普通的维生素C具有极高的稳定性且容易穿透角质层进入真皮层。烟酰胺又名维生素B3,是维生素家庭中重要一员。当黑色素被传递到角质细胞时,皮肤就会看上去变黑,而烟酰胺正是作用于已经产生的黑色素,有效抑制约35%~40%的黑色素从黑色素细胞向角质细胞传递,从而减少过度色素沉积。临床试验证明,使用含有烟酰胺的润肤霜能明显减少皮肤棕色斑点的面积和数量,用肉眼即可分辨出色斑颜色的浅化。
几乎所有的人工合成色素都不能为人体提供营养物质,某些合成色素甚至会危害人体健康。化妆品中所用的色素多数属焦油衍生物,长期使用会对光线发生敏感反应,导致色素沉着,在正常皮肤上出现褐色斑点;色素还是导致人们对化妆品过敏的重要原因之一,常常引起烧灼、瘙痒、表皮剥脱、轻微疼痛等过敏症状,并伴有皮肤潮红、丘疹等炎症现象,严重影响形象,这与人类使用化妆品的初衷背道而驰。本发明的CC霜中以桑黄醇提物和辣椒红色素为着色剂,不含人工合成色素。桑黄醇提物为黄色固体粉末,加入膏霜中可使产品呈亮黄色;其富含黄酮、三萜和酚类等物质,具有抑制酪氨酸酶活性和清除自由基的作用,从而发挥美白抗衰老的功效;桑黄醇提物对UVB、UVA波段具有一定的吸收能力,添加到CC霜中协助防晒剂发挥隔离防晒的功效,间接发挥美白防晒黑的作用;另有文献报道,桑黄作为我国名贵药材,亦具有抗肿瘤、抗炎、增强免疫等作用,因此添加桑黄醇提物到该产品中,在提亮肤色的同时具备了舒缓修护,提高肌肤免疫力的功效。辣椒红色素是一种采用科学方法从辣椒果实中提取、分离、精制而成的天然色素,为深红色油溶性液体,没有辣味,色泽鲜艳,着色力强,耐光、热、酸、碱,且不受金属离子影响。研究表明,辣椒红色素最主要的成分是辣椒红素、辣椒玉红素,同时富含脂肪酸、β-胡萝卜素、维生素E和维生素C等活性物质,具有镇痛、止痒、抗炎、抑菌、脂质过氧化调节、心肌保护、减肥等生理功能和持久的强消炎镇痛作用,现已被广泛应用于食品餐饮、医药工业、饲料等领域,亦可用于化妆品的生产。作为助颜美容成分,辣椒红色素是类胡萝卜素的一种,也是热门的抗氧化剂。
把桑黄醇提物与辣椒红色素作为着色剂添加到发明的产品配方中,与无机纳米二氧化钛共同调配出CC霜的色彩,使得本发明产品不仅具有多种美容功效,且涂抹后肌肤白皙、清透、自然,达到调控色彩、全效修容的效果。
三、发明内容
本发明旨在提供一种天然色素CC霜及其制备方法。本发明以化妆品乳化理论为基础筛选基质配方,与多种美白活性成分、保湿剂、防晒剂进行复配,并添加桑黄醇提物、辣椒红色素,制备出集遮瑕、美白、保湿、隔离防晒、抗氧化和修护为一体的CC霜。同时对产品的感官指标、理化指标、酪氨酸酶活性抑制、抗氧化、抗炎修护以及防晒等功效进行了研究。
本发明天然色素CC霜的原料是由A相、B相、C相、D相及E相构成,各原料配比为:
控制原料总量为100g。
本发明CC霜的制备方法如下:
(1)将A相置于75-80℃水浴锅中搅拌25-30min,使固状物溶解,得到混合料A;将B相中的卡波姆-2020在水中预先分散均匀后再加入B相其它原料,然后置于75-80℃水浴锅中搅拌25-30min,使固状物溶解,得到混合料B;将C、D、E相中各原料分别预先混合搅拌均匀得到混合料C、混合料D及混合料E;
(2)将混合料B、混合料C及混合料D加入到混合料A中,在75-80℃下快速搅拌25-30min,随后开始减速降温,降温至40-45℃时加入混合料E,搅拌均匀,继续降温至30-35℃时停止搅拌,出料,即得CC霜。在降温过程中补加蒸馏水以使成品总质量为100g。
本发明CC霜是O/W(水包油)型乳化体系。该CC霜中添加了月桂酸己酯作为油性成分,更能润滑肌肤,提升产品的质感;绣线菊油是目前已知的最稳定的植物油脂,且具有很高的抗氧化能力,也已被公认具有极高的保湿滋润能力。在油相成分中添加了四种防晒成分阿伏苯宗(丁基甲氧基二苯甲酰基甲烷)、二苯酮-3、甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯、TiO2M(100TV)(二氧化钛和氢氧化铝和硬脂酸)。阿伏苯宗在320-400nm有很强的吸收;二苯酮-3在280-360nm有较好吸收;甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯是目前应用最为广泛的UVB防护剂,在280-320nm有强吸收;表面处理的纳米TiO2在整个UVB、UVA段都有良好吸收,所以该产品对UVB、UVA区都有很好的防护作用,能够有效避免皮肤受到紫外线的伤害。
本发明CC霜添加D-泛醇、透明质酸钠、维生素C乙基醚、烟酰胺、维生素A棕榈酸酯等活性成分。D-泛醇又被称为维生素原B5,比泛酸更容易渗透进角质层,并在体内迅速转化为泛酸,有较强的保湿作用,有助于舒缓皮肤不适、瘙痒,刺激表皮细胞生长;透明质酸钠能帮助肌肤汲取大量的水分,可瞬间深层保湿、增加皮肤弹性与张力,有助恢复肌肤正常油水平衡,改善干燥及松弛皮肤;维生素C乙基醚是一种亲油亲水的维生素C衍生物,容易穿透角质层进入真皮层,达到深层美白效果,拥有生物利用度很高且性质稳定等特点;烟酰胺是一种水溶性B族维生素,能够有效抑制约35%-40%的黑色素从黑色素细胞向角质细胞传递,减少过度色素沉积从而达到美白作用;维生素A棕榈酸酯具有调节表皮及角质层新陈代谢的功效,作营养成分添加剂,能防止皮肤粗糙,促进正常生长发育,抗衰、去皱。多种保湿、美白成分的添加,使得该款CC霜赋予肌肤不仅是外在的修饰,更是深层的保养和呵护。
本发明添加的桑黄醇提物在200-450nm都具有广泛的紫外-可见光吸收能力(图2),辣椒红色素在300-550nm也具有广泛的紫外-可见光吸收能力(图3),二者按不同比例加入产品中,能增强产品的防晒功效,并可调配出与肤色较为接近的偏黄至略微泛红的色泽,完全替代人工合成色素,从而减少对肌肤的刺激作用。
四、附图说明
图1是0.75mg/cm2的CC霜紫外吸收光谱图。
图2是浓度为5.0×10-2mg/mL桑黄醇提物的紫外可见吸收光谱图(溶剂:65vt%乙醇水溶液)。
图3是浓度为2.0mg/mL辣椒红色素的紫外可见吸收光谱图(溶剂:无水乙醇)。
五、具体实施方式
原料说明:
聚二甲基硅氧烷、环五聚二甲基硅氧烷,购自美国MOMENTIVE公司;
PEG-100硬脂酸酯购自英国CRODA公司;
PEG-20甲基葡萄糖苷倍半硬脂酸酯、甲基葡萄糖苷倍半硬脂酸酯,购自杭州德高化工开发有限公司;
十六十八醇(十六醇/十八醇=22-32/66-76)购自上海倍特化工有限公司;
甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯、阿伏苯宗、二苯酮-3、TiO2M(100TV)、C12-15醇苯甲酸酯,购自英国悠立朴华公司;
卡波姆-2020购自美国LUBRIZOL公司;
D-泛醇、维生素C乙基醚、烟酰胺、维生素A棕榈酸酯购自北京贝丽莱斯生物化学有限公司;
透明质酸钠,化妆品级,分子量139万,购自华熙福瑞达生物医药有限公司;
PCG:1,2-辛二醇和2-苯氧基乙醇的混合物,购自南京斯拜科生化实业有限公司;
绣线菊油、月桂酸己酯,购自广州华图化妆品科技有限公司;
桑黄醇提物由六安丹皇生物科技有限责任公司提供;
辣椒红色素由亳州市宇惠天然制品有限公司提供,色价e100。
实施例1:
1、天然色素CC霜的配方如下:
原料总质量为100g。
2、CC霜的制备:
将A相置于75-80℃水浴锅中搅拌25-30min,使固状物溶解,得到混合料A;将B相中的卡波姆-2020在水中预先分散均匀后再加入B相其它原料,然后置于75-80℃水浴锅中搅拌25-30min,使固状物溶解,得到混合料B;将C、D、E相中各原料分别预先混合搅拌均匀得到混合料C、混合料D及混合料E;
将混合料B、混合料C及混合料D加入到混合料A中,在75-80℃下快速搅拌25-30min,随后开始减速降温,降温至40-45℃时加入混合料E,搅拌均匀,继续降温至30-35℃时停止搅拌,出料,即得CC霜。在降温过程中补加蒸馏水以使成品总质量为100g。
3、性能测试
1)感观性能评定
取CC霜在室温和非阳光直射下目测观察膏体是否细腻,色泽是否均匀一致;用嗅觉鉴别气味是否纯正。
2)pH值的测试
称取CC霜样品3g,放入盛有30mL除去CO2的去离子水的烧杯中,在40±1℃下分散均匀。用校正好的pH计测定CC霜水溶液的pH值,测定温度20℃。
3)耐热、耐寒测试
将CC霜样品放置于45℃的恒温烘箱和-10℃的冰箱冷冻室中24h后取出,恢复室温后观察是否有分层、沉淀或出水现象。
4)对酪氨酸酶活性抑制作用
称取CC霜0.25g,用乙醇溶解后配制质量浓度为5mg/mL的待测样品溶液,进行酪氨酸酶活性抑制测试。
分别配置pH=6.8的磷酸盐缓冲液(PBS),1mg/mL的L-酪氨酸溶液,0.07mg/mL的酪氨酸酶溶液。按以下设置组加样:A1测试样:2.0mLPBS+2.0mL酪氨酸酶溶液+0.5mLL-酪氨酸溶液;A2测试样:2.5mLPBS+2.0mL酪氨酸酶溶液;A3测试样:0.5mL样品溶液+1.5mLPBS+2.0mL酪氨酸酶溶液+0.5mL-酪氨酸溶液;A4测试样:0.5mL样品溶液+2.0mLPBS+2.0mL酪氨酸酶溶液。混匀,置37℃水浴中保温30min后立即于485nm处测吸光度。根据式(1)计算酪氨酸酶抑制率I:
I=[1-(A3-A4)/(A1-A2)]×100%(1);
5)对DPPH·自由基的清除作用
称取CC霜0.25g,用纯水溶解后配制质量浓度为5mg/mL的待测样品溶液,进行抗氧化性测试。
分别取上述待测样品溶液和物质的量浓度为2.00×10-4mol/L的DPPH·乙醇溶液各3mL加入同一具塞试管中,摇匀,避光放置30min后,用紫外-可见分光光度计测定混合溶液在517nm处的吸光度Ai,同时测定3mL的纯水与3mL浓度为2.00×10-4mol/L的DPPH·乙醇溶液混合后的吸光度A0和3mL待测样品溶液与3mL无水乙醇混合后的吸光度Aj,根据式(2)计算清除率P:
P=[1-(Ai-Aj)/A0]×100%(2);
6)对皮肤修护作用的测试
在受试者左前臂内侧画三个一元钱币大小的圆圈,将润有适量10%的十二烷基硫酸钠(SDS)水溶液的圆形滤纸片贴敷于画好的圆圈上,轻压使之均匀地贴敷于受试者前臂内侧,并用保鲜膜包住,刺激24小时,取下滤纸片,半小时后观察皮肤变化,拍照并记录。然后一个圆圈内涂抹CC霜,一个圆圈内涂抹不加桑黄醇提物及辣椒红色素的基质霜,另一个圆圈不做任何处理为空白对照,每隔8小时观察记录各圆圈内受损皮肤变化情况,并再次涂抹相应产品,持续观察、操作3次,记录受试部位皮肤的状况变化。
7)CC霜防晒性能的测试
称取适量样品于贴有透气胶带的石英板上,然后戴上指套进行涂抹,涂抹时间不宜过长,但要尽力保证涂抹样品的均匀性,加样量及涂抹后样品剩余量用分析天平进行精确称量。涂抹了防晒样品的载体在常温下水平放置于无光线直射处干燥平衡20min,然后放入紫外-可见分光光度计中在280-400nm进行吸光度测试。
8)桑黄提取物和辣椒红色素的紫外吸收性能测试
以65vt%乙醇水溶液为溶剂,配制5.0×10-2mg/mL桑黄醇提物溶液,测定其在200-500nm处的吸光度。
以无水乙醇为溶剂,配制2.0mg/mL辣椒红色素溶液,测定其在300-600nm处的吸光度。
4、测试结果
1)感官及理化指标测定结果见下表:
2)对酪氨酸酶抑制率
该CC霜浓度5mg/mL时对酪氨酸酶活性抑制率为60.9%,说明样品具有一定的美白作用。
3)对DPPH·自由基的清除率
该CC霜浓度为5mg/mL时对DPPH·自由基的清除率为52.2%,说明样品具有一定的抗氧化性。
4)修护作用
注:圈1涂抹CC霜修复;圈2涂抹基质霜修复;圈3不做任何处理。
在被10%SDS水溶液刺激24h后皮肤红肿脱皮,涂抹本发明的CC霜24h后即可恢复正常;涂抹基质霜24h后消肿,但仍能观察到红斑;不做任何处理的皮肤则恢复较慢;由此说明添加了桑黄醇提物和辣椒红色素的CC霜具有更为明显的修护抗炎功效。
5)CC霜的紫外吸收性能
本发明CC霜的紫外吸收谱图如图1所示,从图中可以看出涂抹法测定的0.75mg/cm2CC霜在280-400nm均有较好吸收,说明其具有广谱防晒性能。
6)桑黄醇提物和辣椒红色素的紫外-可见吸收性能
5.0×10-2mg/mL的桑黄醇提物溶液的紫外-可见吸收谱图见图2,可以看出桑黄醇提物在整个紫外区域都有较好吸收,尤其在UVA区的吸收较强,在可见光区域400-450nm吸收逐渐减弱,最大吸收波长在384nm,加入CC霜中能增强产品的防晒能力,特别提升在UVA区的防护效果。2.0mg/mL的辣椒红色素溶液紫外-可见吸收谱图见图3,可以看出辣椒红色素溶液在可见光区域内400-550nm有强吸收。因此辣椒红色素和桑黄醇提物作为色素原料添加到配方中,不仅可制备出接近亚洲人肤色的CC霜,同时能够增强该产品的吸收紫外线能力,提高产品的防晒效果。

Claims (3)

1.一种天然色素CC霜,其原料是由A相、B相、C相、D相及E相构成,各原料配比为:
控制原料总量为100g。
2.一种权利要求1所述的天然色素CC霜的制备方法,其特征在于包括如下步骤:
(1)将A相置于75-80℃水浴锅中搅拌25-30min,使固状物溶解,得到混合料A;将B相中的卡波姆-2020在水中预先分散均匀后再加入B相其它原料,然后置于75-80℃水浴锅中搅拌25-30min,使固状物溶解,得到混合料B;将C、D、E相中各原料分别预先混合搅拌均匀得到混合料C、混合料D及混合料E;
(2)将混合料B、混合料C及混合料D加入到混合料A中,在75-80℃下快速搅拌25-30min,随后开始减速降温,降温至40-45℃时加入混合料E,搅拌均匀,继续降温至30-35℃时停止搅拌,出料,即得CC霜。
3.根据权利要求2所述的制备方法,其特征在于:
步骤(2)在降温过程中补加蒸馏水以使成品总质量为100g。
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CN106983684A (zh) * 2017-04-05 2017-07-28 安徽大学 一种抗污染霜及其制备方法
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CN110464664A (zh) * 2019-09-12 2019-11-19 陈晓彤 一种天然色素粉底组合物及其制备方法
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