CN106983684B - 一种抗污染霜及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种抗污染霜及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
- A61K8/675—Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
Landscapes
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Biotechnology (AREA)
- Botany (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Mycology (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Medicines Containing Plant Substances (AREA)
Abstract
本发明公开了一种抗污染霜及其制备方法,该抗污染霜以荞麦籽提取物、红景天提取物、桑黄醇提物、D‑泛醇和烟酰胺为主要活性成分,并添加优异的成膜剂DC FA 4001 CM。本发明的抗污染霜色泽均匀、细腻、易于涂抹、性能稳定,具有优良的抗氧化性和抗炎性,并能很好地隔离PM2.5颗粒,有效降低污染物对肌肤的伤害,保持肌肤健康活力。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种护肤品及其制备方法,具体地说是一种抗污染霜及其制备方法。
背景技术
近年来随着全球工业化和城市化进程的突飞猛进,大气污染问题也引起了人们的广泛关注。大气污染物包括臭氧、PM2.5颗粒物以及有机挥发物二氧化硫、氮氧化物等。空气污染影响着越来越多的人,不仅损害我们的健康,对我们的肌肤也会造成伤害。当我们身处空气污染的环境中,人体最大的器官——皮肤,不可避免地成为人体直接接触外界污染的第一道防卫线,也是大气污染物进入机体的途径之一。首先,当污染物PM颗粒本身接触到皮肤,会引起表层皮脂氧化;其次,污染物PM颗粒、有机挥发物以及紫外线的协同作用之下,导致肌肤屏障受到损伤,诱导皮肤角质形成细胞多种炎性因子分泌增加,最终导致深层细胞发炎、干燥脱屑、皮肤刺痛不适等。因此,皮肤变得敏感脆弱,在污染环境下面临更大压力,造成皮肤提前衰老。面对污染,我们需要从提升肌肤内在抵抗力出发,首先做到增加肌肤含水量,为肌肤提供一个充盈的水屏障;其次补充肌肤抗氧化、抗炎以及抗污染活性成分,抑制脂质氧化、抵消神经末梢的发炎反应,抵抗空气污染物;另外,还要给肌肤设置一个天然透气的防护屏障,阻隔PM颗粒及过敏原的入侵,有效降低污染物对肌肤的伤害,最终使肌肤达到健康水平。
发明内容
本发明旨在提供一种抗污染霜及其制备方法。本发明以化妆品乳化理论为基础筛选基质配方,将优异的皮肤成膜剂与多种护肤活性成分相结合,按协同增效原则进行复配,得到抗氧化、抗炎及隔离修护为一体的抗污染霜。
一种抗污染霜,其特征在于:所用原料由A相、B相、C相、D相及E相组成;以所用原料总质量份为100计,其中:
A相由下述重量份的原料组成:聚二甲基硅氧烷4.0-6.0、合成角鲨烷1.8-2.2、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯5.0-7.0、异硬脂醇异硬脂酸酯1.8-2.2、十六十八醇1.8-2.2、单硬脂酸甘油酯2.0-3.0、硬脂酸0.8-1.2、PEG-20甲基葡萄糖苷倍半硬脂酸酯2.5-3.5、甲基葡萄糖苷倍半硬脂酸酯1.8-2.2、泊洛沙姆188 0.1-0.3、2,6-二叔丁基-4-甲基苯酚0.03-0.07;
B相由下述重量份的原料组成:三乙醇胺0.1-0.3、卡波姆-21 0.1-0.3、甘油4.5-5.5、甜菜碱0.5-1.5、EDTA二钠0.03-0.07、水余量;
C相由下述重量份的原料组成:D-泛醇0.1-0.3、烟酰胺0.1-0.3、DC FA 4001 CM5.0-7.0、水10.0-15.0;
D相由下述重量份的原料组成:桑黄醇提物0.03-0.07、64-66%乙醇2.0-3.0;
E相由下述重量份的原料组成:固含量2-4%的红景天提取物1.5-2.5、固含量5%-9.99%的荞麦籽提取物1.5-2.5、PCG 0.8-1.2。
所述一种抗污染霜的制备方法,其特征在于包括以下步骤:
(1)将A相置于75-80℃水浴锅中搅拌25-30min,使固状物溶解,得到混合料A;将B相中的卡波姆-21在水中预先分散均匀后再加入B相其它原料,然后置于75-80℃水浴锅中搅拌25-30min,使固状物溶解,得到混合料B;将C、D、E相各原料混合搅拌均匀分别得到混合料C、D、E。
(2)将混合料B、D加到混合料A中,在75-80℃下快速搅拌乳化25-30min,随后开始减速降温,降温至40-45℃时加入混合料C、E,搅拌均匀,继续降温至30-35℃时停止搅拌,出料,即得抗污染霜。
所述一种抗污染霜的制备方法,其特征在于:在制备过程中为使制成品总重量份保持为100,在加入各个相的同时再加入适量的蒸馏水。
本发明各原料均为市购。
本发明的优点是:
本发明的抗污染霜是O/W(水包油)型乳化体系。该抗污染霜中添加了DC FA 4001CM作为成膜剂,DC FA 4001 CM是道康宁公司推出的一款优异的皮肤成膜剂,易涂抹、亲肤性好,保护色彩;在唇彩、粉底液及防晒液中均赋予产品长效特点,透气好、具弹性。在油相成分中添加油溶性非离子表面活性剂甲基葡萄糖苷倍半硬脂酸酯,无毒、无刺激,配合水溶性非离子表面活性剂PEG-20甲基葡萄糖苷倍半硬脂酸酯形成高效的非离子乳化剂体系,此体系在水包油乳霜中有较高的粘度稳定性,整体上达到了隔离防尘的目的。该抗污染霜选用荞麦籽提取物、红景天提取物以及桑黄醇提物作为天然活性成分,并添加泛醇和烟酰胺,使其具有抗污染、抗氧化、抗炎的作用。
荞麦籽提取物主要通过对抗紫外线和空气污染物来保护皮肤,其护肤原理主要分三步:①降低炎症因子(即白细胞介素-8)。在污染情况下,将荞麦籽修护因子局部施用于皮肤外植体后,白细胞介素-8得到抑制。该修护因子浓度在1%和3%时的抑制率分别为11%和26%。②保护细胞间的紧密连接。污染物苯并芘能够改变克劳丁蛋白的表达,并改变皮肤网络结构,减弱皮肤屏障功能,破坏细胞间连接的完整性。1%荞麦籽修护因子可以修复由污染导致的跨膜蛋白受损,能够参与维持肌肤组织结构的完整性、内稳性和皮肤屏障功能。③重塑细胞解毒机制的内稳性。在紫外线的侵袭下,不受防护的皮肤中的乙二醛酶I会出现过度表达的现象,导致细胞受到攻击,而乙二醛酶I又能开启自身解毒机制。而荞麦籽修护因子保护的皮肤可以减少这种酶的过度表达现象并且将其维持在正常的生理水平。红景天为景天科植物,大花红景天的干燥根和根茎的提取物主要成份为红景天苷和红景天苷元,能显著提高机体SOD(超氧化物歧化酶)的活性,清除自由基,抑制过氧化脂质生成。桑黄,一种名贵中药,桑黄醇提物富含黄酮、三萜和酚类物质。透明质酸酶参与组织发炎过程,是I型过敏反应的参与者,与炎症、过敏密切相关,而桑黄醇提物能有效抑制透明质酸酶活性,抑制炎症反应。泛醇又被称为维生素原B5,是泛酸的同效物。泛醇比泛酸容易渗透角质层,并在体内迅速转化为泛酸,有较强的保湿作用,有助于舒缓皮肤不适、瘙痒,刺激表皮细胞生长;烟酰胺是一种水溶性B族维生素,除了能够加速新陈代谢,促进含黑色素的角质细胞脱落和有效抑制黑色素向表层细胞转移之外,还能够促进表皮层蛋白质的合成,增强肌肤自身的防御能力,增加肌肤含水率。
附图说明
图1为抗污染霜对PM2.5防护作用随时间变化图。
具体实施方式
1、抗污染霜的配方如下:
原料总质量为100g
原料说明:
PEG-20甲基葡萄糖苷倍半硬脂酸酯、甲基葡萄糖苷倍半硬脂酸酯,杭州德高化工开发有限公司;
泊洛沙姆188(聚氧乙烯/聚氧丙烯共聚物),湖北信康医药化工有限公司;
2,6-二叔丁基-4-甲基苯酚,分析纯,天津市光复精细化工研究所;
卡波姆-21,美国路博润公司;
甜菜碱,宣城晶瑞新材料有限公司;
EDTA二钠(乙二胺四乙酸二钠),分析纯,国药集团化学试剂有限公司;
三乙醇胺,分析纯,国药集团化学试剂有限公司;
D-泛醇、烟酰胺,北京贝丽莱斯生物化学有限公司;
PCG(1,2-辛二醇和2-苯氧基乙醇的混合物),南京斯拜科生化实业有限公司;
DC FA 4001 CM(DC FA 4001 CM Silicone Acrylate,环戊二烯硅氧烷(及)丙烯酸酯/聚三甲基甲硅烷氧基甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物),美国道康宁公司;
红景天提取物,液状水提物(固含量2-4%),赣州华汉生物科技有限公司;
荞麦籽提取物,液状水提物(固含量5%-9.99%),法国艾比欧公司;
桑黄醇提物,固体粉末,六安丹皇生物科技有限公司。
2、抗污染霜的制备,包括以下步骤:
(1)将A相置于75-80℃水浴锅中搅拌25-30min,使固状物溶解,得到混合料A;将B相中的卡波姆-21在水中预先分散均匀后再加入B相其它原料,然后置于75-80℃水浴锅中搅拌25-30min,使固状物溶解,得到混合料B;将C、D、E相各原料混合搅拌均匀分别得到混合料C、D、E。
(2)将混合料B、D加到混合料A中,在75-80℃下快速搅拌乳化25-30min,随后开始减速降温,降温至40-45℃时加入混合料C、E,搅拌均匀,继续降温至30-35℃时停止搅拌,出料,即得抗污染霜。
在制备过程中为使制成品总量保持为100g,在加入各个相的同时再加入适量的蒸馏水。
3、性能测试:
1)感观性能评定
取抗污染霜在室温和非阳光直射下目测观察乳霜颗粒是否细腻,色泽是否均匀一致;用嗅觉鉴别气味是否纯正。
2)pH值的测试
称取抗污染霜样品3g,放入盛有30mL除去CO2的去离子水的烧杯中,在40±1℃下分散均匀。用校正好的pH计测定抗污染霜水溶液的pH值。
3)耐热、耐寒测试
将抗污染霜样品放置于40℃的恒温烘箱和-10℃的冰箱冷冻室中24h后取出,恢复室温后观察是否有分层、沉淀或出水现象。
4)抗氧化性测试
称取抗污染霜1.00g,用蒸馏水溶解后转入10mL容量瓶中定容。以此为原溶液进行稀释,配制抗污染霜质量浓度为10.0mg/mL的样品溶液。
取上述样品溶液和物质的量浓度为0.2mmol/L的DPPH·溶液各3mL加入同一具塞试管中,摇匀,避光放置30min后,用紫外-可见分光光度计测定混合溶液在517nm处的吸光度Ai,同时测定3mL的溶剂与3mL DPPH·溶液混合后的吸光度A0和3mL样品溶液与3mL无水乙醇混合后的吸光度Aj,根据公式(1)计算清除率P:
P=[1-(Ai-Aj)/A0]×100% (1)
5)抗炎性测试
称取抗污染霜1.00g,用蒸馏水溶解后转入10mL容量瓶中定容。以此为原溶液进行稀释,配制抗污染霜的质量浓度为1.00mg/mL的样品溶液,进行抗炎性测试(透明质酸酶抑制率的测定)。
醋酸缓冲溶液的配制:精确称取6.8g醋酸钠用蒸馏水溶解,定容至250mL容量瓶中,配置成0.2mol/L的醋酸钠溶液;用移液枪量取1.155ml的冰醋酸用蒸馏水稀释,定容至100mL容量瓶中,配置成0.2mol/L的醋酸溶液。分别取113mL 0.2mol/L醋酸钠溶液和12mL0.2mol/L的醋酸溶液至250mL容量瓶中,用蒸馏水定容,调节pH至5.6待用。
0.5mg/mL透明质酸钠溶液的配制:准确称取透明质酸钠50mg以醋酸缓冲溶液溶解,定容至100mL容量瓶中。
1mg/mL的透明质酸酶溶液的配制:准确称取透明质酸酶50mg以醋酸缓冲溶液溶解,定容至50mL容量瓶中。
埃尔利希试剂的配制:准确称取对二甲氨基苯甲醛0.8g,分别加入15mL无水乙醇、15mL浓HCL溶解,得到埃尔利希试剂。
实验操作:取0.25mmol/L CaCl2溶液0.2mL和1mg/mL透明质酸酶溶液1mL,37℃保温培养20min;加入样品液1mL,37℃保温培养20min;加入0.5mg/mL透明质酸钠溶液1mL,37℃保温40min;加入0.4mol/L氢氧化钠溶液0.2mL,冰水浴8min;加入1mg/mL硼酸溶液0.2mL,沸水浴10min后立即冰水浴8min终止反应,加入埃尔利希试剂4.0mL,37℃保温放置5min显色,以去离子水作参比,紫外-可见分光光度计在585nm下测定吸光度。按公式(2)计算透明质酸酶抑制率I:
I=[1-(C-D)/(A-B)]×100% (2)
式中:A为对照溶液吸光度值(用蒸馏水代替样品溶液);B为空白对照溶液吸光度值(用蒸馏水代替样品溶液,醋酸缓冲溶液代替透明质酸酶溶液);C为样品溶液吸光度值;D为样品对照溶液吸光度值(醋酸缓冲溶液代替透明质酸酶溶液)。
6)PM2.5防护性能测试
检查激光空气质量测试仪(BR-Smart-126便携式手持检测仪,博朗通医疗科技(北京)有限公司)测试口是否洁净。开机后自动校准。
取适宜大小的纯棉无纺布,将测试仪的测试口紧密包裹,放置在0.1m3密闭空间中,在其内相隔30cm处燃烧特定规格的纸片用以产生烟雾,即刻关上玻璃门,透过玻璃窗口,每隔1min观察并记录PM2.5数值,连续记录10min。
再取适宜大小的纯棉无纺布,在直径为35cm的圆内均匀地涂上0.26g的抗污染霜,将其对准防尘测试仪的测试口并紧密包裹,按上述方法进行测试,每隔1min观察并记录PM2.5数值,连续记录10min。
通过比较以上两次实验记录的数值,评价抗污染霜对PM2.5的防护性能。
4、测试结果
1)感官及理化测试结果
2)对DPPH·自由基的清除率
当抗污染霜浓度为10.0mg/mL时对DPPH·自由基的清除率为72.3%,说明该抗污染霜具有较强的抗氧化性。
3)对透明质酸酶的抑制率
当抗污染霜浓度为1.00mg/mL时对透明质酸酶的抑制率为76.7%,说明该抗污染霜具有一定的抗炎作用。
4)PM2.5防护性能测试
如图1所示,通过对涂抹抗污染霜和未涂抹的空白对照组PM2.5浓度测试结果的比较发现:空白对照组在封闭空间内PM2.5浓度随测试时间延长而逐渐增大,至7min时达最大值380ug/m3,之后其数值几乎无变化,说明7min之后封闭空间内的PM2.5颗粒物含量稳定;而涂抹抗污染霜后,在所测时间内PM2.5浓度均小于15ug/m3,可见该抗污染霜对PM2.5颗粒有非常好的阻隔作用。
Claims (2)
1.一种抗污染霜,其特征在于:所用原料由A相、B相、C相、D相及E相组成;以所用原料总质量份为100 计,其中:
A相由下述重量份的原料组成:聚二甲基硅氧烷 4.0-6.0、合成角鲨烷1.8-2.2、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯5.0-7.0、异硬脂醇异硬脂酸酯1.8-2.2、十六十八醇1.8-2.2、单硬脂酸甘油酯2.0-3.0、硬脂酸0.8-1.2、PEG-20甲基葡萄糖苷倍半硬脂酸酯2.5-3.5、甲基葡萄糖苷倍半硬脂酸酯1.8-2.2、泊洛沙姆188 0.1-0.3、2,6-二叔丁基-4-甲基苯酚0.03-0.07;
B相由下述重量份的原料组成:三乙醇胺0.1-0.3、卡波姆-21 0.1-0.3、甘油4.5-5.5、甜菜碱 0.5-1.5、EDTA二钠 0.03-0.07、水余量;
C相由下述重量份的原料组成:D-泛醇 0.1-0.3、烟酰胺 0.1-0.3、DC FA 4001 CM5.0-7.0、水 10.0-15.0;
D相由下述重量份的原料组成:桑黄醇提物 0.03-0.07、64-66%乙醇 2.0-3.0;
E相由下述重量份的原料组成:固含量2-4%的红景天提取物1.5-2.5、固含量5%-9.99%的荞麦籽提取物1.5-2.5、PCG 0.8-1.2;
所述的抗污染霜的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
(1)将A相置于75-80℃水浴锅中搅拌25-30 min,使固状物溶解,得到混合料A;将B相中的卡波姆-21在水中预先分散均匀后再加入B相其它原料,然后置于75-80℃水浴锅中搅拌25-30 min,使固状物溶解,得到混合料B;将C、D、E相各原料混合搅拌均匀分别得到混合料C、D、E;
(2)将混合料B、D加到混合料A中,在75-80℃下快速搅拌乳化25-30 min,随后开始减速降温,降温至40-45℃时加入混合料C、E,搅拌均匀,继续降温至30-35℃时停止搅拌,出料,即得抗污染霜。
2. 根据权利要求1所述的一种抗污染霜的制备方法,其特征在于:在制备过程中为使制成品总重量份保持为100 ,在加入各个相的同时再加入适量的蒸馏水。
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