CN105544253B - 一种提高涤锦复合丝灯芯绒浅色面料耐光照色牢度的染整工艺 - Google Patents

一种提高涤锦复合丝灯芯绒浅色面料耐光照色牢度的染整工艺 Download PDF

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CN105544253B
CN105544253B CN201610054476.2A CN201610054476A CN105544253B CN 105544253 B CN105544253 B CN 105544253B CN 201610054476 A CN201610054476 A CN 201610054476A CN 105544253 B CN105544253 B CN 105544253B
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欧乐春
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HANGZHOU TIANYU DYEING PRINTING CO Ltd
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Abstract

本发明提供一种提高涤锦复合丝灯芯绒浅色面料耐光照色牢度的染整工艺,包括染色工艺,所述的染色工艺中采用如下染色助剂配方:高效分散剂1g/L,螯合分散剂1g/L,冰醋酸(99%)(0.3~0.5)g/L,分散黄AM‑2R X%(o.w.f.),分散红AM‑SLR Y%(o.w.f.),分散蓝AM‑SLRZ%(o.w.f.),其中X+Y+Z≤0.5,浴比:1:10;该染整工艺其以不含荧光增白剂及耐高日晒色牢度的分散染料染色所得的涤锦复合丝灯芯绒为坯布,通过特定的染整工艺实现耐光照色牢度达到(5~6)级。

Description

一种提高涤锦复合丝灯芯绒浅色面料耐光照色牢度的染整 工艺
技术领域
本发明属于面料染整领域,特别涉及提高涤锦复合丝灯芯绒浅色面料耐光照色牢度的染整工艺。
背景技术
传统的灯芯绒织物以棉为主,面料厚实且耐磨、手感柔软弹滑、保暖性好,织物上的绒条清晰圆润、光泽柔和均匀,主要用作秋冬外衣、鞋帽的面料,也适宜做家具装饰布、窗帘、沙发的面料及手工艺品、玩具等物品的面料。
但是此类灯芯绒织物具有以下缺点:
(1)强度差,较易撕裂,尤其是沿着绒条方向的撕裂强度偏低;
(2)在穿着过程中,服装的肘部、领口、袖口、膝部等长期受到外界摩擦的部位,绒毛容易脱落;
(3)洗涤和打理不便,容易起皱,洗涤时不能用力搓洗,收藏时也不宜重压;
(4)绒感不够丰满。
涤锦复合丝灯芯绒可克服以上灯芯绒织物的缺点,是一种以普通长丝作底面、涤锦超细复合纤维作绒面经制造而成的一种双层织物。
随着市场需求的演变,人们对于面料的要求也提高了,一种耐高日晒的涤锦复合丝灯芯绒浅色面料更深受人们的喜爱。
然而采用常规工艺得到的涤锦复合丝灯芯绒浅色面料的耐光照色牢度很难达到(5~6)级(耐人造光色牢度:氙弧GB/T8427:2008),原因有:
第一、织造时,所使用的涤纶、锦纶纱线没有考虑涤锦复合丝灯芯绒坯布本身是否含有荧光增白剂,纺丝时所加入的荧光增白剂耐光照色牢度质量一般较差,在染浅色时,就算采用了耐高日晒的分散染料,因为荧光增白剂较差的耐光照色牢度,最终可能还是没有办法满足客户对该面料的耐光照色牢度的要求;同时,还因为这些荧光染料占据了纤维无定形区的部分空间,对分散染料上染纤维时产生一定的阻力,增加了染料在纤维表面染色的几率,也不利于织物满足其耐光照色牢度的要求。
第二、在染色时,加入了高温匀染剂,降低了涤/锦灯芯条家纺面料的耐光 照色牢度,最终使得该面料达不到其对耐光照色牢度(5~6)级的要求。高温匀染剂一般由阴、非离子表面活性剂组成,阴离子表面活性剂的作用是提高分散染料在染色上染纤维的缓染性能,非离子表面活性剂的作用是加强在高温高压染色条件下分散染料的移染性能。在整个染整过程中,非离子表面活性剂尽管由于洗涤作用,部分洗除,但是,还是有部分残留在布面上,在染色后定型过程中,会使上染后的分散染料发生更好的热迁移,使染料在纤维中由里及外的迁移,最终导致染色成品布的耐光照色牢度的达不到客户的要求。
第三、染色后定型时加入的有机硅柔软剂中可能含有乳化剂,这些乳化剂绝大部分是非离子表面活性剂,在染色后定型过程中,会使上染后的分散染料发生更好的热迁移,使染料在纤维中由里及外的迁移,最终导致染色成品布的耐光照色牢度的达不5-6级。
发明内容
针对现有技术的不足,本发明公开了一种提高涤锦复合丝灯芯绒浅色面料的色牢度的染整工艺,其以不含荧光增白剂及耐高日晒色牢度的分散染料染色所得的涤锦复合丝灯芯绒为坯布,通过特定的染整工艺实现耐光照色牢度达到(5~6)级。
为实现发明目的,本发明采取如下的技术方案:
一种提高涤锦复合丝灯芯绒浅色面料的耐光照色牢度的染整工艺,以不含荧光增白剂的涤锦复合丝灯芯绒为坯布,包括的工艺步骤为坯布准备→缝头→精炼→高温高压溢流染色机开纤、中和→脱水、开幅→预定型→染色→冷水洗→脱水、开幅→柔软、定型→检验→打卷包装,所述的染色工艺中采用如下染色助剂配方:
作为优选,所述的高效分散剂为阴离子型高效分散剂,选自为木质素磺酸钠, 丙烯酸与马来酸酐等聚合的高分子化合物;更优选为木质素磺酸钠85A。
作为优选,所述的染色工艺是在高温高压溢流染色机中进行,升温速率为1℃/min,于130℃下保温(30~40)min,再降温至80℃时,采用溢流水洗,至40℃时排液。
作为优选,染色后还需进行还原清洗后处理,使用到的洗剂配方为:
片碱 (0.5~1)g/L
保险粉 (0.5~1)g/L
浴比:1:10。
作为优选,所述的还原清洗后处理是在高温高压溢流染色机中进行,常温条件下,先加入片碱,运行10min后,再加入保险粉,处理(15~20)min,处理两次,再冷水洗(10~15)min,再加入冰醋酸(99%)(0.5~1)g/L中和,使面料的pH值满足客户的要求。
作为优选,所述的精炼工艺为:于7节连续精炼机精炼槽中水温控制依次为60℃→80℃→98℃→26℃→26℃→26℃→26℃,车速为60m/min。
作为优选,所述的高温高压溢流染色机开纤、中和工艺中,开纤用到的助剂配方为:
液碱 16g/L
螯合分散剂 1g/L
浴比:1:10。
作为优选,所述的开纤在高温高压溢流染色机中进行,以(1~1.5)℃/min的升温速率运行,于110℃下保温40min,降温至80℃时,采用溢流水洗。
作为优选,所述的高温高压溢流染色机开纤、中和工艺中,中和采用:
冰醋酸(99%) 1g/L
浴比:1:10。
作为优选,所述的中和在高温高压溢流染色机中进行,以(1~1.5)℃/min的升温速率运行,于70℃下保温20min,降温时,采用溢流水洗。
作为优选,所述的预定型工艺的温度为195℃,车速为20~30m/min。
作为优选,所述的定型工艺中浸轧采用有机硅柔软剂(10~50)g/L,定型温度175℃,车速(20~30)m/min。
作为优选,所述的有机硅柔软剂采用不含乳化剂的多元线性聚醚氨基改性有机硅柔软剂。
本发明的涤锦复合丝灯芯绒浅色面料的染整工艺可提高耐光照色牢度的机理在于:包含纤维在内的所有染料及助剂,在一定温度、湿度条件下,吸收一定光能后,纤维颜色所产生的变化。
织物所组成的纤维中含有荧光增白剂,这种荧光增白剂是在纺丝时加入,考虑到成本及产品竞争等因素,这些荧光增白剂的耐光照色牢度一般都较差,同时还阻止了分散染料在纤维中的扩散,容易造成染料对纤维的表面染色,就算采用耐高日晒的分散染料,织物在接受光的照射时,这些耐高日晒的分散染料,接收光能后,本身颜色变化很小,反而是添加的这些荧光增白剂发生了较大的色变。
分散染料对纤维的染色,分为三个过程:吸附、扩散及固着,化学纤维高分子结构中含有无定形区及结晶区,染料在纤维上的分布表现为外表面、内表面、无定形区及很少部分的结晶区,在一定的温度、湿度条件下,织物吸收光能的顺序依次是外表面→内表面→无定形区→结晶区,因此,染料在纤维中发生色变的的顺序是外表面→内表面→无定形区→结晶区,浅色织物中所含有的染料相对较少,这也就意味着在一定的温度、湿度及吸收一定的光能后单个染料分子所吸收的光能相对于深色织物而言就要多得多,这样,浅色织物的颜色在进行光的照射时,颜色变化就要大得多。因此,对于浅色织物的还原清洗就很有必要,充分地去除纤维上外表面及内表面的染料,有效地提高了浅色织物的耐光照色牢度。
对于染料及印染助剂的选择,分散染料主要选择蒽醌类、杂环类及含有-CN、-Br等结构的染料,染色时,配方中所选择的染料一定要满足在接受光的照射时同步变色的条件,印染助剂主要选择不含或少含有非离子表面活性剂得助剂,因为如果织物上含有这些非离子表面活性剂,织物在高温定型时,会使分散染料发生热迁移,上染在纤维无定形区的分散染料就会迁移到纤维的内表面,甚至是外表面,最终导致这些染料吸收光能后发生色变,严重影响了其耐光照色牢度。
本发明的涤锦复合丝灯芯绒浅色面料的染整工艺,与常规工艺相比,具有以下优势:
第一:选择不含荧光增白剂的涤锦复合丝灯芯绒为胚布,采用耐高日晒色牢度的分散剂染料染色,是涤/锦灯芯条家纺面料的耐光照色牢度完全可以达到 (5~6)级(耐人造光色牢度:氙弧GB/T8427:2008)的充分条件。
第二、在染色时,不使用阴/非离子型的高温匀染剂,而是使用阴离子型的高效分散剂,有利于涤/锦灯芯条家纺面料的耐光照色牢度的提高。阴离子型的高效分散剂的作用是提高分散染料在染色上染纤维的缓染性能,在染色后定型时,上染纤维的分散染料不会发生热迁移的作用。
第三、涤/锦灯芯条家纺面料染色后,采用两次低温还原清洗,以充分去除吸附、上染纤维外表面及内表面的分散染料,有利于其耐光照色牢度的提高。
第四、选择不含有乳化剂的有机硅柔软剂对涤/锦灯芯条家纺面料进行手感整理,有利于其耐光照色牢度的提高。染色后定型时加入的有机硅柔软剂中含有乳化剂,这些乳化剂绝大部分是非离子表面活性剂,在染色后定型过程中,会使上染后的分散染料发生更好的热迁移,使染料在纤维中由里及外的迁移,最终导致染色成品布的耐光照色牢度的达不到客户的要求。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体实施例对本发明作进一步详细的说明。但本发明不局限于以下实施例,相同领域的技术人员可以在本发明的技术方案框架内提出其他的实施例,但这些实施例均包括在本发明的保护范围内。
实施例1
一种提高涤锦复合丝灯芯绒浅色面料的色牢度的染整工艺,以不含荧光增白剂的涤锦复合丝灯芯绒为坯布,包括的工艺步骤为坯布准备→缝头→精炼→高温高压溢流染色机开纤、中和→脱水、开幅→预定型→染色→冷水洗→脱水、开幅→柔软、定型→检验→打卷包装,所述的染色工艺中采用如下染色助剂配方:
高效分散剂为木质素磺酸钠85A
所述的染色工艺是在高温高压溢流染色机中进行,升温速率为1℃/min,于130℃下保温30min,再降温至80℃时,采用溢流水洗,至40℃时排液。
染色后还需进行还原清洗后处理,使用到的洗剂配方为:
片碱 0.5g/L
保险粉 0.5g/L
浴比:1:10。
所述的还原清洗后处理是在高温高压溢流染色机中进行,常温条件下,先加入片碱,运行10min后,再加入保险粉,处理15min,处理两次,再冷水洗10min,再加入冰醋酸(99%)0.5g/L中和,使面料的pH值满足客户的要求。
所述的精炼工艺为:于7节连续精炼机精炼槽中水温控制依次为60℃→80℃→98℃→26℃→26℃→26℃→26℃,车速为60m/min。
所述的高温高压溢流染色机开纤、中和工艺中,开纤用到的助剂配方为:
液碱 16g/L
螯合分散剂 1g/L
浴比:1:10。
所述的开纤在高温高压溢流染色机中继续,以(1~1.5)℃/min的升温速率运行,于110℃下保温40min,降温至80℃时,采用溢流水洗。
所述的高温高压溢流染色机开纤、中和工艺中,中和采用:
冰醋酸(99%) 1g/L
浴比:1:10。
所述的中和在高温高压溢流染色机中进行,以(1~1.5)℃/min的升温速率运行,于70℃下保温20min,降温时,采用溢流水洗。
所述的预定型工艺的温度为195℃,车速为20~30m/min。
所述的定型工艺中浸轧采用有机硅柔软剂10g/L,定型温度175℃,车速(20~30)m/min。
所述的有机硅柔软剂采用不含乳化剂的多元线性聚醚氨基改性有机硅柔软剂。
实施例2
一种提高涤锦复合丝灯芯绒浅色面料的色牢度的染整工艺,以不含荧光增白 剂的涤锦复合丝灯芯绒为坯布,包括的工艺步骤为坯布准备→缝头→精炼→高温高压溢流染色机开纤、中和→脱水、开幅→预定型→染色→冷水洗→脱水、开幅→柔软、定型→检验→打卷包装,所述的染色工艺中采用如下染色助剂配方:
高效分散剂为丙烯酸马来酸酐共聚物;
所述的染色工艺是在高温高压溢流染色机中进行,升温速率为1℃/min,于130℃下保温(30~40)min,再降温至80℃时,采用溢流水洗,至40℃时排液。
染色后还需进行还原清洗后处理,使用到的洗剂配方为:
片碱 1g/L
保险粉 1g/L
浴比:1:10。
所述的还原清洗后处理是在高温高压溢流染色机中进行,常温条件下,先加入片碱,运行10min后,再加入保险粉,处理(15~20)min,处理两次,再冷水洗(10~15)min,再加入冰醋酸(99%)1g/L中和,使面料的pH值满足客户的要求。
所述的精炼工艺为:于7节连续精炼机精炼槽中水温控制依次为60℃→80℃→98℃→26℃→26℃→26℃→26℃,车速为60m/min。
所述的高温高压溢流染色机开纤、中和工艺中,开纤用到的助剂配方为:
液碱 16g/L
螯合分散剂 1g/L
浴比:1:10。
所述的开纤在高温高压溢流染色机中继续,以(1~1.5)℃/min的升温速率运行,于110℃下保温40min,降温至80℃时,采用溢流水洗。
所述的高温高压溢流染色机开纤、中和工艺中,中和采用:
冰醋酸(99%) 1g/L
浴比:1:10。
所述的中和在高温高压溢流染色机中进行,以(1~1.5)℃/min的升温速率运行,于70℃下保温20min,降温时,采用溢流水洗。
所述的预定型工艺的温度为195℃,车速为20~30m/min。
所述的定型工艺中浸轧采用有机硅柔软剂30g/L,定型温度175℃,车速(20~30)m/min。
所述的有机硅柔软剂采用不含乳化剂的多元线性聚醚氨基改性有机硅柔软剂。
实施例3
一种提高涤锦复合丝灯芯绒浅色面料的色牢度的染整工艺,以不含荧光增白剂的涤锦复合丝灯芯绒为坯布,包括的工艺步骤为坯布准备→缝头→精炼→高温高压溢流染色机开纤、中和→脱水、开幅→预定型→染色→冷水洗→脱水、开幅→柔软、定型→检验→打卷包装,所述的染色工艺中采用如下染色助剂配方:
所述高效分散剂为木质素磺酸钠85A;
所述的染色工艺是在高温高压溢流染色机中进行,升温速率为1℃/min,于130℃下保温(30~40)min,再降温至80℃时,采用溢流水洗,至40℃时排液。
染色后还需进行还原清洗后处理,使用到的洗剂配方为:
片碱 0.8g/L
保险粉 0.7g/L
浴比:1:10。
所述的还原清洗后处理是在高温高压溢流染色机中进行,常温条件下,先加入片碱,运行10min后,再加入保险粉,处理(15~20)min,处理两次,再冷水洗(10~15)min,再加入冰醋酸(99%)(0.5~1)g/L中和,使面料的pH值满足客户的要求。
所述的精炼工艺为:于7节连续精炼机精炼槽中水温控制依次为60℃→80℃→98℃→26℃→26℃→26℃→26℃,车速为60m/min。
所述的高温高压溢流染色机开纤、中和工艺中,开纤用到的助剂配方为:
液碱 16g/L
螯合分散剂 1g/L
浴比:1:10。
所述的开纤在高温高压溢流染色机中继续,以(1~1.5)℃/min的升温速率运行,于110℃下保温40min,降温至80℃时,采用溢流水洗。
所述的高温高压溢流染色机开纤、中和工艺中,中和采用:
冰醋酸(99%) 1g/L
浴比:1:10。
所述的中和在高温高压溢流染色机中进行,以(1~1.5)℃/min的升温速率运行,于70℃下保温20min,降温时,采用溢流水洗。
所述的预定型工艺的温度为195℃,车速为20~30m/min。
所述的定型工艺中浸轧采用有机硅柔软剂50g/L,定型温度175℃,车速(20~30)m/min。
所述的有机硅柔软剂采用不含乳化剂的多元线性聚醚氨基改性有机硅柔软剂。
对上述实施例所得的涤锦复合丝灯芯绒浅色面料的进行牢固度检测,见下表:
(色牢度检测均采用GB/T)

Claims (6)

1.一种提高涤锦复合丝灯芯绒浅色面料耐光照色牢度的染整工艺,其特征在于选择不含荧光增白剂以及采用耐高日晒色牢度的分散剂染料染色所得的涤锦复合丝灯芯绒为胚布,包括的工艺步骤为坯布准备→缝头→精炼→高温高压溢流染色机开纤、中和→脱水、开幅→预定型→染色→还原清洗→脱水、开幅→柔软、定型→检验→打卷包装,所述的染色工艺中采用如下染色助剂配方:
高效分散剂 1 g/L
螯合分散剂 1 g/L
99%冰醋酸 0.3~0.5g/L
分散黄 AM-2R o.w.f.X%
分散红 AM-SLR o.w.f.Y%
分散蓝 AM-SLR o.w.f.Z%,其中X+Y+Z≤0.5,
浴比:1:10
所述的定型工艺中浸轧采用有机硅柔软剂10~50g/L,定型温度175℃,车速20~30m/min;所述的有机硅柔软剂采用不含乳化剂的多元线性聚醚氨基改性有机硅柔软剂;
所述的高温高压溢流染色机开纤、中和工艺中,开纤用到的助剂配方为:
液碱 16 g/L
螯合分散剂 1 g/L
浴比:1:10;
中和采用:
99%冰醋酸 1 g/L
浴比:1:10;
所述的开纤在高温高压溢流染色机中继续,以1~1.5℃/min的升温速率运行,于110℃下保温40min,降温至80℃时,采用溢流水洗;所述的中和在高温高压溢流染色机中进行,以1~1.5℃/min的升温速率运行,于70℃下保温20min,降温时,采用溢流水洗。
2.根据权利要求1所述的一种提高涤锦复合丝灯芯绒浅色面料耐光照色牢度的染整工艺,其特征在于所述的染色工艺是在高温高压溢流染色机中进行,升温速率为1℃/min,于130℃下保温30~40min,再降温至80℃时,采用溢流水洗,至40℃时排液。
3.根据权利要求1所述的一种提高涤锦复合丝灯芯绒浅色面料耐光照色牢度的染整工艺,其特征在于所述的染色后还需进行还原清洗后处理,使用到的洗剂配方为:
片碱 0.5~1g/L
保险粉 0.5~1g/L
浴比:1:10。
4.根据权利要求3所述的一种提高涤锦复合丝灯芯绒浅色面料耐光照色牢度的染整工艺,其特征在于所述的还原清洗后处理是在高温高压溢流染色机中进行,常温条件下,先加入片碱,运行10 min后,再加入保险粉,处理15~20min,再冷水洗10~15min,再加入99%冰醋酸0.5~1g/L进行中和。
5.根据权利要求1所述的一种提高涤锦复合丝灯芯绒浅色面料耐光照色牢度的染整工艺,其特征在于所述的精炼工艺为:于7节连续精炼机精炼槽中水温控制依次为60℃→80℃→98℃→26℃→26℃→26℃→26℃,车速为60m/min。
6.根据权利要求1所述的一种提高涤锦复合丝灯芯绒浅色面料耐光照色牢度的染整工艺,其特征在于所述的预定型工艺的温度为195℃,车速为20~30m/min。
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