CN105029810A - Pattern making method of western-style clothes collar - Google Patents
Pattern making method of western-style clothes collar Download PDFInfo
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- CN105029810A CN105029810A CN201510410691.7A CN201510410691A CN105029810A CN 105029810 A CN105029810 A CN 105029810A CN 201510410691 A CN201510410691 A CN 201510410691A CN 105029810 A CN105029810 A CN 105029810A
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Abstract
The invention relates to a pattern making method of a western-style clothes collar. The western-style clothes collar is manufactured through the following technical steps: firstly, a basic collar pattern is made; secondly, a turn-down collar pattern is made; thirdly, a quadrangle abcd is made; fourthly, a base collar pattern is made, wherein a deep top point B of a front straight collar serves as a circle center, a circle is drawn with the deep BG of the front straight collar as the radius, the point a of the quadrangle abcd and a point P coincide, the quadrangle abcd is rotated with the point P as a basic point to enable the point d of the quadrangle abcd to intersect with a circumference, forward camber lines Mb and Bc are drawn, and then base collar MbcB pattern making is finished. The shape of the clothes collar manufactured through the method does not change, the joint of the western-style clothes collar and a western-style clothes lapel is straight and smooth, and the appearance of the collar is naturally stiff and smooth; the neckline is attached to the neck, is circular and smooth and is fit to neck after western-style clothes are put on the body, the western-style clothes collar is fit to the shape of the body, and the product quality is greatly improved.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of method for platemaking of western-style clothes collar.
Background technology
In current western-style clothes collar lithography process, lead the lapel be partitioned into and seat to lead from basis, leading moulding is easily out of shape, the seam of western-style clothes collar and western-style clothes split head is not easily directly suitable, after lapel and seat are led and sewed up, it is suitable that lapel face and basis lead collar extension to sew up not easily to ensure, have impact on product quality.
Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved by this invention be to provide a kind of ensure lapel face and inner collar collar extension eat gesture; Serial ports directly suitable; The method for platemaking that lapel face mouth in seat top collar is combined, seat bottom collar mouth is combined directly suitable western-style clothes collar with neck nest.
The present invention adopts following technical scheme:
The method for platemaking of a kind of western-style clothes collar of the present invention, adopts following processing step to make:
One, basis neck plate-making: determine wide line DC in wide line AE before leading, neck, wide line DF and lead the arc length of camber line IX after measuring western-style clothes rear panel in lapel, completes basis neck AEDCB plate-making according to the arc length of rear neck camber line IX and western-style clothes anter roll line turn-line FL;
Two, lapel is made a plate: lapel covers roll line turn-line FL0.8cm ~ 1.0cm, lapel and western-style clothes anter FRONT NECK DROP line is made to meet at M point, neck AEDCB collar extension front end 3.0cm ~ 3.5cm is motionless on basis, the D point of the collar extension camber line ED of AEDCB is led on basis to drop to H point, the distance of D point and H point is 1.5cm ~ 2.0cm, draw EH camber line, make EH camber line length 0.2cm ~ 0.35cm longer than ED camber line, cross the vertical line that H point makes EH camber line, vertical line is got J point, make HJ=DF+0.8cm ~ 1.0cm, draw along MJ, ∠ EHJ and ∠ HJQ is made to be right angle, then MJ line is mouth line in lapel, complete lapel AEHJM to make a plate,
Three, make the shoulder neck point that quadrangle abcd:G point is western-style clothes anter, the extended line of shoulder line WG meets at Q point with mouth line MJ in lapel, gets the mid point P point of MQ, and mistake P point makes the vertical line of BG, and intersection point is K point; Be quadrangle abcd, ab line is got e point, connect ed, make ab=PJ+0.2cm ~ 0.3cm, bc=FC-0.8cm ~ 1.0cm, dc=GC, ed=PK, and ed line and bc line are respectively perpendicular to dc line;
Four, seat neck plate-making: the dark summit B point of straight neck was the center of circle in the past, the dark BG of straight neck was that radius is justified in the past, was overlapped by a of quadrangle abcd point with P point, with P point for basic point rotates quadrangle abcd, make the d of quadrangle abcd point crossing with circumference, draw along camber line Mb and BC, complete seat neck MbcB plate-making.
Good effect of the present invention is as follows:
Lapel of the present invention covers roll line turn-line FL0.8cm ~ 1.0cm, the collar of manufactured goods clothes cut-off rule after dress is not exposed, collar overall appearance; Neck AEDCB collar extension front end 3.0cm ~ 3.5cm is motionless on basis, ensures that intrinsic collar is constant; The D point of the middle mouth line DC of basis neck AEDCB drops to H point, the distance of D point and H point is 1.5cm ~ 2.0cm, draw EH camber line, make EH camber line length 0.2cm ~ 0.35cm longer than ED camber line, according to the characteristic of cloth textile as thin and thick, elasticity etc. can flexible modulation collar collar extension eat gesture; Be quadrangle abcd can ensure lapel and seat lead in mouth stable bond, seat neck end opening and suit collar nest stable bond, the property grasped is strong, the leading moulding of clothes using the inventive method to produce is constant, the seam of western-style clothes collar and western-style clothes split head is directly suitable, and collar outward appearance is naturally well-pressed, wears back neck and embraces neck, smoother, docile, meet modelling of human body, substantially increase product quality.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Accompanying drawing 1 is the present invention basis neck AEDCB structural representation;
Accompanying drawing 2 is western-style clothes rear panel structural representation of the present invention;
Accompanying drawing 3 is lapel AEHJM plate-making structural representation of the present invention;
Accompanying drawing 4 is quadrangle abcd structural representation of the present invention;
Accompanying drawing 5 is quadrangle abcd rotation status structural representation of the present invention;
Accompanying drawing 6 is seat neck MbCB plate-making structural representation of the present invention.
Detailed description of the invention
Below in conjunction with accompanying drawing, the present invention is described in detail.
As shown in accompanying drawing 1,2,3,4, the method for platemaking of a kind of western-style clothes collar of the present invention, adopts following processing step to make:
One, basis neck plate-making: determine wide line DC in wide line AE before leading, neck, wide line DF and the arc length of neck camber line IX after measuring western-style clothes rear panel 2 in lapel, completes basis neck AEDCB plate-making according to the arc length of rear neck camber line IX and western-style clothes anter 1 roll line turn-line FL;
Two, lapel plate-making: in order to the collar after ready-made clothes is attractive in appearance, do not leak outside the cut-off rule that lapel and seat lead, lapel covers roll line turn-line FL0.8cm ~ 1.0cm, lapel and western-style clothes anter 1 FRONT NECK DROP line is made to meet at M point, neck AEDCB collar extension front end 3.0cm ~ 3.5cm is motionless on basis, ensures that intrinsic collar is constant; The D point of the collar extension camber line ED of AEDCB is led on basis to drop to H point, the distance of D point and H point is 1.5cm ~ 2.0cm, draw EH camber line, make EH camber line length 0.2cm ~ 0.35cm longer than ED camber line, this be in order to according to the characteristic of cloth textile as thin and thick, elasticity etc. can flexible modulation collar collar extension eat gesture; Cross the vertical line that H point makes EH camber line, vertical line is got J point, makes HJ=DF+0.8cm ~ 1.0cm, draw along MJ, make ∠ EHJ and ∠ HJQ be right angle, then MJ line is mouth line in lapel, becomes lapel AEHJM plate-making;
Three, make the shoulder neck point that quadrangle abcd:G point is western-style clothes anter 1, the extended line of shoulder line WG meets at Q point with mouth line MJ in lapel, gets the mid point P point of MQ, and mistake P point makes the vertical line of BG, and intersection point is K point; Be quadrangle abcd, ab line is got e point, connect ed, make ab=PJ+0.2cm ~ 0.3cm, bc=FC-0.8cm ~ 1.0cm, dc=GC, ed=PK, and ed line and bc line are respectively perpendicular to dc line; Be quadrangle abcd can ensure lapel and seat lead in mouth stable bond, seat neck end opening and suit collar nest stable bond, the property grasped by force,
Four, seat neck plate-making: the dark summit B point of straight neck was the center of circle in the past, the dark BG of straight neck was that radius is justified in the past, was overlapped by a of quadrangle abcd point with P point, with P point for basic point rotates quadrangle abcd, make the d of quadrangle abcd point crossing with circumference, draw along camber line Mb and BC, complete seat neck MbcB plate-making.
Use the inventive method leading moulding of clothes of producing constant, the seam of western-style clothes collar and western-style clothes split head is directly suitable, and collar outward appearance is naturally well-pressed, wears back neck and embraces neck, smoother, docile, meet modelling of human body, substantially increase product quality.
Upper embodiment only in order to technical scheme of the present invention to be described, is not intended to limit; Although with reference to previous embodiment to invention has been detailed description, those of ordinary skill in the art is to be understood that: it still can be modified to the technical scheme described in previous embodiment, or carries out equivalent replacement to wherein portion of techniques feature; And these amendments or replacement, do not make the essence of appropriate technical solution depart from the spirit and scope of embodiment of the present invention technical scheme.
Claims (1)
1. a method for platemaking for western-style clothes collar, is characterized in that adopting following processing step to make:
One, basis neck plate-making: determine wide line DC in wide line AE before leading, neck, wide line DF and measure the arc length that camber line IX lead afterwards by western-style clothes rear panel (2) in lapel, completes basis neck AEDCB according to the arc length of rear neck camber line IX and western-style clothes anter (1) roll line turn-line FL and makes a plate;
Two, lapel is made a plate: lapel covers roll line turn-line FL0.8cm ~ 1.0cm, lapel and western-style clothes anter (1) FRONT NECK DROP line is made to meet at M point, neck AEDCB collar extension front end 3.0cm ~ 3.5cm is motionless on basis, the D point of the collar extension camber line ED of AEDCB is led on basis to drop to H point, the distance of D point and H point is 1.5cm ~ 2.0cm, draw EH camber line, make EH camber line length 0.2cm ~ 0.35cm longer than ED camber line, cross the vertical line that H point makes EH camber line, vertical line is got J point, make HJ=DF+0.8cm ~ 1.0cm, draw along MJ, ∠ EHJ and ∠ HJQ is made to be right angle, then MJ line is mouth line in lapel, complete lapel AEHJM to make a plate,
Three, make the shoulder neck point that quadrangle abcd:G point is western-style clothes anter (1), the extended line of shoulder line WG meets at Q point with mouth line MJ in lapel, gets the mid point P point of MQ, and mistake P point makes the vertical line of BG, and intersection point is K point; Be quadrangle abcd, ab line is got e point, connect ed, make ab=PJ+0.2cm ~ 0.3cm, bc=FC-0.8cm ~ 1.0cm, dc=GC, ed=PK, and ed line and bc line are respectively perpendicular to dc line;
Four, seat neck plate-making: the dark summit B point of straight neck was the center of circle in the past, the dark BG of straight neck was that radius is justified in the past, was overlapped by a of quadrangle abcd point with P point, with P point for basic point rotates quadrangle abcd, make the d of quadrangle abcd point crossing with circumference, draw along camber line Mb and BC, complete seat neck MbcB plate-making.
Priority Applications (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN201510410691.7A CN105029810B (en) | 2015-07-14 | 2015-07-14 | A kind of method for platemaking of western-style clothes collar |
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN201510410691.7A CN105029810B (en) | 2015-07-14 | 2015-07-14 | A kind of method for platemaking of western-style clothes collar |
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| CN105029810A true CN105029810A (en) | 2015-11-11 |
| CN105029810B CN105029810B (en) | 2017-11-14 |
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| CN201510410691.7A Active CN105029810B (en) | 2015-07-14 | 2015-07-14 | A kind of method for platemaking of western-style clothes collar |
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Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN105455277A (en) * | 2015-11-16 | 2016-04-06 | 胡亨有 | VU primitive number design tailoring method for lapels of clothing |
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| US4026749A (en) * | 1975-02-06 | 1977-05-31 | Nino Aktiengesellschaft | Method and apparatus for the manufacture of collar-inserts and base-plus seal-inserts for performance of this method |
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| US4026749A (en) * | 1975-02-06 | 1977-05-31 | Nino Aktiengesellschaft | Method and apparatus for the manufacture of collar-inserts and base-plus seal-inserts for performance of this method |
| CN1435138A (en) * | 2002-10-16 | 2003-08-13 | 上海杨海服装研究所 | Method for matching collar without press-in and unfolding of pattern sheet |
| CN1703988A (en) * | 2004-05-25 | 2005-12-07 | 江继明 | Paper folding costume fent method |
| CN1799440A (en) * | 2005-12-13 | 2006-07-12 | 上海杨海服装研究所 | Collar shape production method of front-groveling, rear-embracing type low collar band |
| JP2015057523A (en) * | 2014-11-07 | 2015-03-26 | 佳子 岩下 | Four end sewing work method for tailored jacket gorge line part, and tailored jacket produced by the same |
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| 宋勇: "探讨服装制版中翻领松量的设计", 《天津纺织科技》 * |
| 朱琴娟 王春燕 闫玉秀: "《衣领造型与裁剪》", 30 June 2014, 东华大学出版社 * |
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Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN105455277A (en) * | 2015-11-16 | 2016-04-06 | 胡亨有 | VU primitive number design tailoring method for lapels of clothing |
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| CN105029810B (en) | 2017-11-14 |
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