CN104988622B - Hemp-terylene twisted yarn and hemp forging fabric made of same - Google Patents

Hemp-terylene twisted yarn and hemp forging fabric made of same Download PDF

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Publication number
CN104988622B
CN104988622B CN201510407962.3A CN201510407962A CN104988622B CN 104988622 B CN104988622 B CN 104988622B CN 201510407962 A CN201510407962 A CN 201510407962A CN 104988622 B CN104988622 B CN 104988622B
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fiber crops
fabric
yarn
mould
twisted yarn
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CN104988622A (en
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陈子明
罗朝文
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Guangdong Esquel Textiles Co Ltd
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Guangdong Esquel Textiles Co Ltd
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  • Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)

Abstract

The invention provides a hemp-terylene twisted yarn and hemp forging fabric made of same. The hemp-terelyene twisted yarn is formed when flax yarns and fine denier terylene filaments are twisted together; content of the flaxen in the flax yarns is 100%; numbers of the flax yarns are 28 to 36 Nm with twisting degree (TPI)of 9 TO 13.5; the fine denier terylene filaments are 30D/12F semi-extinction terylene low stretch yarns; and the twisting degree (TPI) of the hemp-terylene twisted yarn is 7 to 13. The invention further provides a hemp forging fabric prepared by the hemp-terylene twisted yarn. Deficiencies of uneasy weaving of the flax yarns, existences of holes, breakage and fabric separation during the weaving can be overcome; and the fabric made of the hemp-terylene twisted yarns is advantaged by smooth surface, soft hand feeling, great draping and great contact coldness sense.

Description

A kind of fiber crops wash the fiber crops forging fabric of twisted yarn and its preparation
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of fiber crops wash the fiber crops forging fabric of twisted yarn and its preparation, belong to field of textile.
Background technology
Sodolin is traditional garment material, and raw material of fabric environmental protection naturally, style are simple and tasteful, due to its stock chart Face smooths and has splits section, therefore good luster, and the fabric also has the advantages that moisture permeability is good and dress is nice and cool in addition, deep Favored by domestic and international consumer.But as linen thread and yarn rigidity is big, fiber crops section is more, the features such as dry and astringent and many filoplumes, so that Fabric has following weakness:1. due to pure numb expensive raw material price, when large circle machine weft knitting weaves, process of weaving cotton cloth is difficult, easily The problems such as producing broken hole, broken yarn, Tuo Bu and bad pin so that weaving cotton cloth, loss is excessive, and loss of weaving cotton cloth may be up to 20%, cause cost It is too high;2. due to difficulty of weaving cotton cloth, revolving speed of knitting machine is low, and production capacity is low, and defective cloth and benefit are single more, cause presentate difficult;3. due to Asia The characteristics of numb raw material, fabric feeling, are coarse firm, have obvious uncomfortable and prodding and itching feeling when causing to wear fiber crops section filoplume more, and Yarn rigidity is big, and work to break is little, and elastic recovery is poor, the easy fold of cloth cover and pilling, not washable, significantly reduces clothes With performance and the satisfaction of consumer.
Therefore, researching and developing a kind of new flax fabric becomes this area problem demanding prompt solution.
The content of the invention
To solve above-mentioned technical problem, it is an object of the invention to provide a kind of fiber crops wash the numb forging face of twisted yarn and its preparation Material, the face weave are simple, and soft, drapability is good, while with excellent moisture absorption and desorption property, washing fastness, antibiotic property Energy and contact coldness.
To reach above-mentioned purpose, the invention provides a kind of fiber crops wash twisted yarn, which is thin with one by one linen thread and yarn The twisting of denier dacron thread is obtained, wherein:
In the linen thread and yarn, the content of Caulis et Folium Lini is 100%, and the number of the linen thread and yarn is 28-36Nm, and twist TPI is 9- 13.5(TPI(twist per inch):The number of twists of inches yarn);
The fine-denier polyester yarns are 30D/12F semi-dull low elastic polyester filaments;
It is 7-13 that the fiber crops wash twist TPI of twisted yarn.
Wash in twisted yarn in above-mentioned fiber crops, it is preferable that the single thread of linen thread and yarn twist with the fingers to for Z twist with the fingers;Fiber crops wash the sth. made by twisting of twisted yarn to for S Twist with the fingers.
The linen thread and yarn number (28-36Nm) provided using the present invention, the fabric grammes per square metre produced are less, such energy Enough increase the contact area of fabric and air, moisture faster scatters and disappears, so as to reaching that quality is frivolous, breathability is strong, lead it is wet fast Effect;Additionally, being twisted with the linen thread and yarn using 30D/12F semi-dulls low elastic polyester filament, line can either be kept Style of the line for main body, can be significantly greatly increased strength and pliability that fiber crops wash twisted yarn entirety yarn again, wash twisting using the fiber crops The fabric that yarn is produced has more preferable breathability, nice and cool property and contact coldness etc..
Present invention also offers a kind of prepare the method that above-mentioned fiber crops wash twisted yarn, which comprises the following steps:
Linen thread and yarn and fine-denier polyester yarns are carried out into doubling, is then twisted, is obtained fiber crops and wash twisted yarn;Wherein:
When doubling is carried out, the ingot speed for controlling doubling frame is 4500-6500r/min;
When being twisted, the ingot speed for controlling twisting mill is 4000-6000r/min, and the tension force of linen thread and yarn is 5-20cN, The tension force of fine-denier polyester yarns is 1-9cN.
Tension force of the technical scheme that the present invention is provided by increasing line, reduces the tension force of polyester filament, is prevented from During twisting be originally Z twist with the fingers to line back twisting early stage produce sth. made by twisting stretch, and non-twist polyester filament twisting after produce twist contraction.
Present invention also offers a kind of fiber crops forging fabric, which is to wash twisted yarn by above-mentioned fiber crops to prepare by following steps:
A, fiber crops are washed twisted yarn carry out including boiling yarn or dyeing, cross the pre-treatment of consistent lubricant;
B, twisted yarn is washed to the above-mentioned fiber crops through pre-treatment carrying out winder, twisted yarn is washed to the fiber crops during winder carried out wax Process;
C, the fiber crops processed through step b are washed twisted yarn row's weaving yarns are carried out with pure terylene filament, obtain fiber crops forging fabric.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, it is preferable that after step a terminates, what holding fiber crops washed twisted yarn is 12- containing damp rate 15%;In stepb, when carrying out winder, what holding fiber crops washed twisted yarn is 12-15% containing damp rate.
It is above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric in, it is preferable that in step c, when carrying out row's weaving yarns, keep fiber crops wash twisted yarn containing tide Rate is 12-15%.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, in step c, the pure terylene filament used by this area is used equally to the present invention and carries For technical scheme, the terylene filament can be preferably 150D/144F dacron threads.
It is above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric in, it is preferable that after step c terminates, also include to fiber crops forging fabric carry out biological filtering layer, The step of softening agent arrangement, hydrophilic finiss and antibiotic finish.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, the step of dyeing and wash water are processed can also be included, carry out wash water and process and can remove Hydrophobic contaminants on fiber crops forging fabric, improve the hydrophilicity of fabric, make fabric obtain the effect of hydroscopic fast-drying.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, the step of resin sizing is arranged can also be included.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, it is preferable that in step c, the organizational structure of fiber crops forging fabric includes one side plain weave, Dan Zhu Ground, PIQUE of trying to stop people from fighting each other, 6 mould PIQUEs or LACOSTE.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, it is preferable that row's yarn mode of one side plain weave is:1st mould washs twisted yarn, the 2nd mould for fiber crops For pure terylene filament, and (as shown in a in Fig. 1) is weaved as minimal circulation unit;Or, the 1st mould is pure terylene Filament, the 2nd mould wash twisted yarn for fiber crops, and are weaved (as shown in b in Fig. 1) as minimal circulation unit;It is woven thereon The technique made is as shown in table 1:
Row's weaving yarns technique of 1 one side plain weave of table
One side plain weave adopts this special row's weaving yarns mode (as shown in Figure 1), and cloth cover can be made more to smooth Softness, with the drapability such as silks and satins, dress more cool and comfortable.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, it is preferable that row's yarn mode of PIQUE is:1st mould be pure terylene filament, the 2nd mould Twisted yarn is washed for fiber crops, the 3rd mould is pure terylene filament, and the 4th mould washs twisted yarn for fiber crops, and is knitted as minimal circulation unit Make;The technique of its looming weaving is as shown in table 2:
Row's weaving yarns technique of 2 PIQUE of table
PIQUE tissue can either retain the organizational structure using this special row's weaving yarns mode (as shown in Figure 2) Distinctive third dimension and texture, can lift the feel and bright and clean outward appearance of the soft pendency of fabric again.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, it is preferable that row's yarn mode of the PIQUE of trying to stop people from fighting each other is:1st mould is that pure terylene length is fine Silk and blended yarns made by elastic filament of trying to stop people from fighting each other, the 2nd mould wash twisted yarn for fiber crops, and the 3rd mould is pure terylene filament and elastic force of trying to stop people from fighting each other Blended yarns made by silk, the 4th mould washs twisted yarn for fiber crops, and is weaved as minimal circulation unit;Its looming weaving Technique is as shown in table 3:
Table 3 is tried to stop people from fighting each other row's weaving yarns technique of PIQUE
PIQUE of trying to stop people from fighting each other tissue had both retained the organizational structure using this special row's weaving yarns mode (as shown in Figure 3) Distinctive third dimension and texture, can lift the feel and bright and clean outward appearance of the soft pendency of fabric, again while have can fabric There are good elastic stretching and recoverability.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, it is preferable that row's yarn mode of the 6 mould PIQUE is:1st mould is that pure terylene length is fine Silk, the 2nd mould and the 3rd mould are fiber crops and wash twisted yarn, and the 4th mould is pure terylene filament, and the 5th mould and the 6th mould are fiber crops and wash twisted yarn, And weaved as minimal circulation unit;The technique of its looming weaving is as shown in table 4:
Row's weaving yarns technique of 46 mould PIQUE of table
6 mould PIQUEs tissue can either retain the knot of tissue using this special row's weaving yarns mode (as shown in Figure 4) The distinctive big pearl eye effect of structure and texture, can greatly lift the feel and bright and clean outward appearance of the soft pendency of fabric again.
In above-mentioned fabric, it is preferable that row's yarn mode of the LACOSTE is:1st mould be pure terylene filament, the 2nd mould Twisted yarn is washed for fiber crops, the 3rd mould is pure terylene filament, and the 4th mould washs twisted yarn for fiber crops, and is knitted as minimal circulation unit Make;The technique of its looming weaving is as shown in table 5:
Row's weaving yarns technique of 5 LACOSTE of table
LACOSTE tissue can either retain the organizational structure using this special row's weaving yarns mode (as shown in Figure 5) Distinctive honeycomb mesh effect and texture, can greatly lift the feel and bright and clean outward appearance of the soft pendency of fabric again.
It is above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric in, it is preferable that in step c, when carrying out row's weaving yarns, keep fiber crops wash twisted yarn containing tide Rate is 12%;It is highly preferred that when being weaved, board rotating speed being controlled for 14-18r/min, entering yarn tension for 8-12cN, needle gage is 18-24G, a length of 50C=150-170mm of yarn (50C represents the overall length of 50 coils).As linen thread and yarn rigidity is big, fiber crops section is more, Dry and astringent the features such as, when large circle machine weft knitting weaves, process of weaving cotton cloth is difficult, easily produces broken hole, broken yarn, Tuo Bu and bad pin etc. and asks Topic, due to the technology twisted with terylene using linen thread and yarn, difficulty of weaving cotton cloth lowers the method that the present invention is provided significantly, and the present invention is carried For technical scheme controls during weaving cotton cloth that fiber crops wash twisted yarn is 12-15% containing damp rate, it can be ensured that loom operating is smooth, Prevent broken yarn and reduce fault.
Wash in twisted yarn in above-mentioned fiber crops, when being weaved, knitting equipment used includes the FEED for being furnished with active yarn transmission device Machine or be furnished with half positive type yarn-feeding device it is automatic between machine, wherein:The FEED machines are one side circular knitting machine.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, it is preferable that at the biological filtering layer is included in 40-60 DEG C, fiber crops forging fabric is placed in 40-80min is processed in enzyme washing liquid, wherein, the composition of the enzyme washing liquid includes:2-4g/L cellulases, 0.5-1g/L sodium acetates and 0.5-1g/L acetic acid, the fabric are 1 with the bath raio of enzyme washing liquid:18-40.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, it is preferable that the soft finish includes fiber crops forging fabric is placed in containing the molten of softening agent Processed in liquid, wherein, the softening agent includes hydrophilic silicon oil, and the hydrophilic silicon oil is more preferably hydrophilic textile finishing Agent JSS or STS, its concentration are 2-75g/L.
In actual production process, soft finish can be carried out step by step:Dyeed or wash water when fabric is forged to the fiber crops When, above-mentioned hydrophilic textile finshing agent can be added in dye bath or wash water bath, its concentration is 2-5g/L, and its use condition can be with Require to carry out according to coloration requirements or wash water;When resin sizing arrangement is carried out to the fiber crops forging fabric, can be in sizing dressing liquid Middle to add above-mentioned hydrophilic textile finshing agent, its concentration is 25-75g/L, and its use condition can be arranged according to resin sizing will Asking is carried out.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, it is preferable that the antibiotic finish includes fiber crops forging fabric is placed in containing antibacterial finishing agent Solution in processed, wherein, the antibacterial finishing agent includes organosilicon-quaternary ammonium compound, its concentration be 20-40g/ L。
In actual production, antibiotic finish can be organized in same bath while carry out with resin sizing, i.e., in resin calmly Above-mentioned antibacterial finishing agent is added in type dressing liquid, its use condition can be carried out according to the requirement that resin sizing is arranged.
It is bright and clean that flax fiber is straight, and although the torsion of fibers such as no cotton, hair, this feature make it lose fiber product Elasticity and it is easy to corrugation, but its straight bright and clean fibre structure makes antibacterial be not easy to grow.Therefore, flax fiber is to green pus bar Bacterium, white bead-containing bacteria, escherichia coli, gold-coloured staphylococci etc. have significant bacteriostasis.The present invention adopts antibiotic finish skill Art can more greatly improve the anti-microbial property of fabric, reduce harm of the antibacterial to human body.The method that the present invention is provided can allow antibacterial There is chemical bond with fabric in finishing agent, the fabric after arrangement is by the release of effective control, regeneration principle, obstruction or resistance Plug effect can resist pathogenic bacteria infringement.
In above-mentioned fiber crops forging fabric, it is preferable that the fiber crops forge fabric after a series of above-mentioned Final finishings, the grammes per square metre of fabric For 150-230g/m3, the unit area grammes per square metre of fabric is less, and fabric is bigger with the contact area of air, and such moisture is able to more Fast to scatter and disappear, so under the conditions of identical hygroscopicity, the grammes per square metre of fabric is less, its nice and cool property breathability is better.
In actual production, implementing procedure can include:Yarn pre-treatment → weaving → perching → standby cloth → open-width → enzyme washes → Dyeing (cross consistent lubricant/piece dyeing) or wash water (cross consistent lubricant/yarn-dyed) → be dehydrated → control → SANT drying → middle inspection → sizings are (excessively soft Oil) → preshrunk → rear inspection.
The technical scheme that the present invention is provided is made raw material be adapted to braiding, is difficult broken yarn, drop by being improved to linen thread and yarn In low knitting process, the loss of yarn and the fault of cloth cover, improve production capacity of weaving cotton cloth.Additionally, by the improvement to raw material, i.e., Linen thread and yarn is wrapped up using certain technique by using fine-denier polyester yarns, feel and wearability can be effectively improved.This Outer also to fabric structure, dye washes technique, soft treatment, and whole technique is improved afterwards, makes fabric be totally different from common Asia Flax fabric, the fiber crops forging fabric that the present invention is provided have the characteristics that:
1) weave simple, change linen thread and yarn and be difficult weaving, be also easy to produce in weaving process broken hole, broken yarn, Tuo Bu and The defect of the problems such as bad pin, is possibly realized big specification production;
2) fabric face smooth pieces, feel particularly soft, drapability are good, comfortable and easy to wear;
3) with extremely strong moisture absorption and moisture releasing performance, fabric is dry and comfortable ventilative, and dress is nice and cool;
4) with fabulous contact coldness;
5) with antibacterial, antibacterial characteristic;
6) washability is good, is difficult pilling.
Description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is tabby weaving schematic diagram;
Fig. 2 is the weaving schematic diagram of PIQUE tissue;
Fig. 3 be try to stop people from fighting each other PIQUE tissue weaving schematic diagram;
Fig. 4 is the weaving schematic diagram of 6 mould PIQUEs tissue;
Fig. 5 is the weaving schematic diagram of LACOSTE tissue.
Specific embodiment
In order to be more clearly understood to the technical characteristic of the present invention, purpose and beneficial effect, now to skill of the invention Art scheme carry out it is described further below, but it is not intended that to the present invention can practical range restriction.
Embodiment 1
Present embodiments provide a kind of fiber crops and wash twisted yarn, the fiber crops are washed the preparation method of twisted yarn and comprise the following steps:
100% linen thread and yarn (count of yarn is respectively 28Nm, 36Nm) is selected, the linen thread and yarn that number is 28Nm is determined Twist TPI is 9.5+/- 2%, and number is 13.5+/- 2% for twist TPI of the linen thread and yarn of 36Nm, determines the sth. made by twisting of single thread Caulis et Folium Lini To for " Z " twist with the fingers, with terylene twisting sth. made by twisting to for " S " sth. made by twisting;
(dacron thread is 30D/12F semi-dull low elastic polyester filaments, and which is with polyester slice as original to select fine-denier polyester yarns Material, using high speed spinning terylene pre-oriented fiber, Jing drafting false twistings are processed), the dacron thread is false twisting (it is believed that no twist);
After choosing yarn, cleaning machine before weaving, it is ensured that yarn flyings are cleaned on board, then according to Lower technique carries out twisting process (twisting one linen thread and yarn and one fine-denier polyester yarns) to above two yarn:Will 30D fine-denier polyester yarns first carry out doubling (doubling frame ingot speed is 6200r/min) respectively with above-mentioned linen thread and yarn (28Nm, 36Nm), (twisting mill ingot speed is 5500r/min) is twisted after the completion of doubling, during twisting, the tension force for controlling linen thread and yarn is 5-20cN, The tension force of polyester filament be 1-9cN (during twisting be originally Z twist with the fingers to the early stage of line back twisting sth. made by twisting can be caused to stretch, it is and non-twist Twist contraction is produced then after polyester filament twisting.Therefore tension force collocation of S when twisting with the fingers to and twisting with the fingers should increase the tension force of line, reduce terylene long The tension force of silk), the fiber crops obtained after twisting wash the sth. made by twisting of twisted yarn to for " S ", and its twist (TPI) is as shown in table 6 below.
The fiber crops that embodiment 1 is obtained are washed twisted yarn to be woven, and is tested to the cloth specimen after braiding that (test result is such as Shown in table 6), and be compared with comparative example (table 7).
The test result of 6 embodiment 1 of table
As can be seen from Table 6, obtain after twisted the dacron thread of the line and 30D/12F of 28Nm, 36Nm Fiber crops wash twisted yarn twist TPI be 7-13 when smoothly can weave cotton cloth, when the twist (TPI) that fiber crops wash twisted yarn is excessive or too low (as shown in table 7), is unfavorable for weaving cotton cloth.Additionally, Caulis et Folium Lini yarn count of selection 28-36Nm can be obtained, quality is frivolous, breathability is strong, it is wet to lead Fast fabric, because the unit area grammes per square metre of fabric is less, fabric is bigger with the contact surface of air, and such moisture is faster dissipated Lose, so in identical hygroscopicity condition, the grammes per square metre of fabric is less, its nice and cool property, breathability are better, meet spring and summer fabric gram It is important to ask.
The test result of 7 comparative example of table
The fiber crops that embodiment 1 is obtained are washed with twisted yarn carries out strength test, and test process is carried out according to Wu Site method of testings, Test result is as shown in table 8.
8 strength test result of table
As can be seen from Table 8:Compared with the 36Nm line before twisting, the fiber crops that the present embodiment is provided wash the yarn count of twisted yarn Thicker, the twist (TPI) is reduced, and yarn strength increases, and weavability is lifted, while rigidity is reduced, fabrics feel soft, elasticity are returned Renaturation is good.
The fiber crops that embodiment 1 is provided are washed with twisted yarn (twist TPI of the twisted yarn is 12) carries out filoplume test, test process Carry out according to Wu Site method of testings, test result is as shown in table 9.
9 filoplume test result of table
As can be seen from Table 9:Compared with the 36Nm line before twisting, the fiber crops that the present embodiment is provided wash the filoplume of twisted yarn Index is reduced, and is conducive to cloth cover bright and clean, comfortable and easy to wear.
The fiber crops that embodiment 1 is provided are washed into twisted yarn and fabric is respectively prepared with line, carry out water retention test, test result As shown in table 10.
As can be seen from Table 10:Compared with the 36Nm line before twisting, the fiber crops that the present embodiment is provided wash twisted yarn Water retention is relatively low, and the low moisture for representing that fabric is trapped in fabric after absorbing aqueous vapor of water retention is less, and in fabric, aqueous vapor is easy to scattered Send out, i.e., wet dissipation is good, and fabric easily keeps dry and comfortable, and the nice and cool property to improving fabric is favourable.Water retention is low in addition, after fabric squezzing It is aqueous few, it is easy to dry, be conducive to low-carbon energy-saving.
Twisted yarn is washed to the fiber crops that embodiment 1 is provided carries out heat conductivity test, and the heat conductivility of fabric reflects the heat of fabric Transmission speed.The good fabric of heat conductivity has good heat dispersion, during skin contact fabric, gives people instantaneous touch cooling feeling, Summer fabric is suitable as, the concrete method of testing of heat conductivity is carried out according to GB/T 11048-2008, test result such as 11 institute of table Show.
10 water retention test result of table
11 heat conductivity test result of table
Note:Contact cold warming test condition:Room temperature:20.1 DEG C, humidity:65% ± 4%RH, 1. T=10 DEG C of Δ, 2. Δ T =20 DEG C, aspect of measure:Wrap up in face.
As can be seen from Table 11:Compared with the 36Nm line before twisting, the fiber crops that the present embodiment is provided wash twisted yarn, its Heat flow (W/cm of the moment by per unit contact area2) larger, heat flow (W/cm of the moment by per unit contact area2) more Greatly, contact cool feeling is stronger, and just more preferably, the ready-made clothes being made from it is more cool when wearing for the cold warming effect of contact of the fabric for being produced Sense.
Embodiment 2
Present embodiments provide a kind of fiber crops forging fabric, the fabric is that the fiber crops provided using embodiment 1 are washed twisted yarn (36Nm is sub- Fiber crops/30D/12F terylene, twist TPI of the twisted yarn is 12) obtained, and its preparation method is comprised the following steps:
1) fiber crops are washed with twisted yarn carries out pre-treatment, and the technique of the pre-treatment is as follows:
Fiber crops are washed twisted yarn, and (36Nm Caulis et Folium Lini/30D/12F terylene, twist TPI of the twisted yarn are 12) to be placed in 100 DEG C of water-baths In boil 60min;Then the well-done fiber crops of Jing wash twisted yarn be placed in the soft agent solution of 4g/L (softening agent used be JSS consistent lubricants (Magnasoft JSS)), 15min is processed at 50 DEG C;Then dehydration, drying, it is 12% to control containing damp rate, and wax (mistake is crossed during winder Can control during wax containing damp rate as 12%);
2) woven fabric on
A, upper machine check:Weaved using large circle machine, it is 16r/min to control board rotating speed, and adjustment tension force is 10cN, often Cloth covers are checked every 5 fabrics, broken hole and broken needle is prevented 3 cloth of inspection and have the fabric of broken hole problem, needle gage is 24G, coil Length is 160mm/50 pins, and what on board, installation spray moisturing device controlled yarn is 12% containing damp rate;
B, row's yarn are weaved cotton cloth:1st mould washs twisted yarn for fiber crops, and the 2nd mould is pure terylene filament, and as minimal circulation unit Weaved (as shown in a in Fig. 1), the technique of its looming weaving as shown in table 1, obtains one side plain weave fiber crops forging fabric;
3) dye Final finishing
A, above-mentioned fiber crops are forged into fabric carry out enzyme and wash:Enzyme used is cellulase, is Novi's letter (China) biotechnology The CELLUSOFT of company limited's productionTMEnzyme;Enzyme washes technique:It is 5.5 with acetic acid adjustment pH value, then with matching somebody with somebody according to table 12 below The enzyme washing liquid of system carries out biological filtering layer, and bath raio is 1:25, process 60 minutes in 50 DEG C.
The composition of 12 enzyme washing liquid of table
Composition Concentration
Sodium acetate NaAc 0.5g/L
Acetic acid HAc 0.5g/L
CELLUSOFT CR50*CX45’PROG 0120(B) 2g/L
B, dyeing:Fabric after washing to enzyme is dyeed, and adopts conventional dyeing process, and add in dye liquor during dyeing 2g/L JSS consistent lubricants (Magnasoft JSS), then dehydration, drying.
C, wash water process:First to first being cleaned to equipment with the cleanout fluid for preparing before entering cloth, then by above-mentioned fabric Carry out wash water process, wash water temperature is 80 DEG C, the wash water time is 30min, the composition of wash water treatment fluid is as shown in table 13.At wash water Reason can carry out hydrophilic test to fabric after terminating.
The composition of 13 wash water treatment fluid of table
Composition Concentration Manufacturer
Penetrating agent FKS 1.0g/L Xianqiao Chemical Product Co., Ltd., Qianjiang City
Low temperature degreaser DM-133 0.8g/L Guangdong Demei Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.
Wrinkle preventing agent CIBA FLUID C 1.0g/L Hensel steps weaving dyeization (China) company limited
Na2CO3 0.5g/L
D, softening agent resin finishing and antibiotic finish:Fabric after above-mentioned dyeing is placed in sizing dressing liquid, sizing temperature Spend for 150 DEG C, the speed of forming machine is 20m/min, the composition of the dressing liquid is as shown in table 14.
The composition of the sizing dressing liquid of table 14
Composition Concentration Manufacturer
Resin finishing agent (dihydroxymethyl ethylene urea) 30g/L BASF China
Catalyst (magnesium chloride) 6g/L
JSS consistent lubricants (Magnasoft JSS) 50g/L Bright note Hong Kong cleaning supplies company limited
Penetrating agent (aliphatic alcohol polyethenoxy) 1-2g/L
Antibacterial (Ultra-fresh NM) 35g/L Novi believes (China) Bioisystech Co., Ltd
Obtain with the cold fiber crops forging fabric for dazzling texture, the cold texture of dazzling refers to that the fiber crops forging fabric is presented bright and clean outward appearance, Soft and smooth feel as silks and satins, and there is the superior functions such as nice and cool, antibacterial, hydroscopic fast-drying.
Embodiment 3
Present embodiments provide a kind of fiber crops forging fabric, the fabric is that the fiber crops provided using embodiment 1 are washed twisted yarn (36Nm is sub- Fiber crops/30D/12F terylene, twist TPI of the twisted yarn is 12) obtained, and the preparation method of the fabric is comprised the following steps:
1) fiber crops are washed with twisted yarn to be dyeed and pre-treatment, the technique of the pre-treatment is as follows:
Fiber crops are washed twisted yarn first carries out normal dyeing, is placed in the soft agent solution of 4g/L after dyeing, and softening agent used is JSS consistent lubricants (Magnasoft JSS), process 15min at 50 DEG C;Then dehydration, drying, it is 12% to control containing damp rate, during winder Cross wax (it is 12% that can control when crossing wax containing damp rate);
2) woven fabric on
A, upper machine check:Weaved using large circle machine, it is 16r/min to control board rotating speed, and adjustment tension force is 10cN, often Cloth covers are checked every 5 fabrics, broken hole and broken needle is prevented 3 cloth of inspection and have the fabric of broken hole problem, needle gage is 24G, coil Length is 160mm/50 pins, and what on board, installation spray moisturing device controlled yarn is 12% containing damp rate;
B, row's yarn are weaved cotton cloth:1st mould is pure terylene filament, and the 2nd mould washs twisted yarn for fiber crops, and as minimal circulation unit Weaved (as shown in b in Fig. 1), the technique of its looming weaving as shown in table 1, obtains one side plain weave fiber crops forging fabric;
3) Final finishing
A, fabric is carried out enzyme wash:Enzyme used is cellulase, is letter (China) Bioisystech Co., Ltd of Novi The CELLUSOFT of productionTMEnzyme;Enzyme washes technique:It is 5.5 with acetic acid adjustment pH value, is then washed with the enzyme prepared according to table 15 below Liquid carries out biological filtering layer, and bath raio is 1:25, process 60 minutes in 50 DEG C.
It is b, excessively soft:After enzyme is washed fiber crops forging fabric cross consistent lubricant, in the aqueous solution containing 2g/LJSS consistent lubricants process 45 DEG C × 30min, then dehydration, drying.
The composition of 15 enzyme washing liquid of table
C, wash water process:First to first being cleaned to equipment with the cleanout fluid for preparing before entering cloth, then by above-mentioned fabric Carry out wash water process, wash water temperature is 80 DEG C, the wash water time is 30min, the composition of wash water treatment fluid is as shown in table 16.At wash water Reason can carry out hydrophilic test to fabric after terminating.
The composition of 16 wash water treatment fluid of table
Composition Concentration Manufacturer
Penetrating agent FKS 1.0g/L Xianqiao Chemical Product Co., Ltd., Qianjiang City
Low temperature degreaser DM-133 0.8g/L Guangdong Demei Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.
Wrinkle preventing agent CIBA FLUID C 1.0g/L Hensel steps weaving dyeization (China) company limited
Na2CO3 0.5g/L
D, softening agent resin finishing and antibiotic finish:Above-mentioned fiber crops are forged fabric to be placed in dressing liquid, setting temperature is 150 DEG C, the speed of forming machine is 20m/min, and the composition of the dressing liquid is as shown in table 17.
The composition of the sizing dressing liquid of table 17
Composition Concentration Manufacturer
Resin finishing agent (dihydroxymethyl ethylene urea) 30g/L BASF China
Catalyst (magnesium chloride) 6g/L
JSS consistent lubricants (Magnasoft JSS) 50g/L Bright note Hong Kong cleaning supplies company limited
Penetrating agent (aliphatic alcohol polyethenoxy) 1-2g/L BASF China
Antibacterial (Ultra-fresh NM) 35g/L Novi believes (China) Bioisystech Co., Ltd
Obtain with the cold fiber crops forging fabric for dazzling texture.
Embodiment 4
Present embodiments provide a kind of fiber crops forging fabric, the fabric is that the fiber crops provided using embodiment 1 are washed twisted yarn (36Nm is sub- Fiber crops/30D/12F terylene, twist TPI of the twisted yarn is 12) obtained, and its preparation method is comprised the following steps:
1) fiber crops are washed with twisted yarn to be dyeed and pre-treatment, the technique of the pre-treatment is as follows:
Fiber crops are washed twisted yarn first carries out normal dyeing, is placed in the soft agent solution of 4g/L that (softening agent used is after dyeing JSS consistent lubricants (Magnasoft JSS), process 15min at 50 DEG C;Then dehydration, drying, it is 12% to control containing damp rate, during winder Wax is crossed, it is 12% that can control when crossing wax containing damp rate;
2) woven fabric on
A, upper machine check:Weaved using large circle machine, board rotating speed is controlled for 16r/min, adjust into yarn tension and be 10cN, checks cloth cover every 5 fabrics, prevents broken hole and broken needle, checks 3 cloth and has the fabric of broken hole problem, and needle gage is 24G, loop length are 160mm/50 pins, and what on board, installation spray moisturing device controlled yarn is 12% containing damp rate;
B, row's yarn are weaved cotton cloth:1st mould is pure terylene filament, and the 2nd mould washs twisted yarn for fiber crops, and the 3rd mould is pure terylene filament, 4th mould washs twisted yarn for fiber crops, and is weaved (as shown in Figure 2) as minimal circulation unit, and the technique of its looming weaving is such as Shown in table 2, PIQUE fiber crops forging fabric is obtained;
3) Final finishing
A, fabric is carried out enzyme wash:Enzyme used is cellulase, is letter (China) Bioisystech Co., Ltd of Novi The CELLUSOFT of productionTMEnzyme;Enzyme washes technique:It is 5.5 with acetic acid adjustment pH value, is then washed with the enzyme prepared according to table 18 below Liquid carries out biological filtering layer, and bath raio is 1:25, process 60 minutes in 50 DEG C.
It is b, excessively soft:After enzyme is washed fiber crops forging fabric cross consistent lubricant, in the aqueous solution containing 2g/LJSS consistent lubricants process 45 DEG C × 10min, then dehydration, drying.
The composition of 18 enzyme washing liquid of table
C, wash water process:First to first being cleaned to equipment with the cleanout fluid for preparing before entering cloth, then by above-mentioned fabric Carry out wash water process, wash water temperature is 80 DEG C, the wash water time is 30min, the composition of wash water treatment fluid is as shown in table 19.At wash water Reason can carry out hydrophilic test to fabric after terminating.
The composition of 19 wash water treatment fluid of table
Composition Concentration Manufacturer
Penetrating agent FKS 1.0g/L Xianqiao Chemical Product Co., Ltd., Qianjiang City
Low temperature degreaser DM-133 0.8g/L Guangdong Demei Fine Chemical Co., Ltd.
Wrinkle preventing agent CIBA FLUID C 1.0g/L Hensel steps weaving dyeization (China) company limited
Na2CO3 0.5g/L
D, softening agent resin finishing and antibiotic finish:Above-mentioned fiber crops are forged fabric to be placed in dressing liquid, setting temperature is 150 DEG C, the speed of forming machine is 20m/min, and the composition of the dressing liquid is as shown in table 20.
The composition of the sizing dressing liquid of table 20
Composition Concentration Manufacturer
Resin finishing agent (dihydroxymethyl ethylene urea) 30g/L BASF China
Catalyst (magnesium chloride) 6g/L
JSS consistent lubricants (Magnasoft JSS) 50g/L Bright note Hong Kong cleaning supplies company limited
Penetrating agent (aliphatic alcohol polyethenoxy) 1-2g/L
Antibacterial (Ultra-fresh NM) 35g/L Novi believes (China) Bioisystech Co., Ltd
Obtain with the cold fiber crops forging fabric for dazzling texture, the cold texture of dazzling refers to that the fiber crops forging fabric is presented bright and clean outward appearance, Soft and smooth feel as silks and satins, and there is the superior functions such as nice and cool, antibacterial, hydroscopic fast-drying.
Embodiment 5
The fiber crops forging fabric that the present embodiment is provided to above-described embodiment 3 has carried out following performance test:
1) permeability test:Weigh breathability quality index be air penetrability, i.e., regulation Area of Sample, pressure and when Between under the conditions of, speed (mm/s or m/s) of the air-flow perpendicular through sample.According to textile method for testing air permeability to embodiment 3 The fiber crops forging fabric of offer carries out permeability test, and test result is as shown in table 21 below.
21 permeability test result of table
Breathability affects to pass through unit area (cm in the hot wet balance of clothing, second unit interval (s)2) garment material it is saturating Gas (the cm for crossing3) more, the breathability of fabric is better, and the fiber crops forging fabric that the present invention is provided as can be seen from Table 21 has good Breathability, breathability is more good more distributes beneficial to body heat, and accelerates air exchange speed in clothing.
2) cold sense of touch (heat conductivity):According to the method for testing of GB/T 11048-2008, the numb forging face provided to embodiment 3 Material has carried out cold sense of touch test, and test result is shown in Table 22.
22 cold sense of touch test result of table
Note:Contact cold warming test condition:Room temperature:20.1 DEG C, humidity:65% ± 4%RH, 1. T=10 DEG C of Δ, 2. Δ T =20 DEG C, aspect of measure:Wrap up in face.
The heat conductivility of fabric reflects the heat transfer speed of fabric, heat flow (W/ of the moment by per unit contact area cm2) bigger, contact cool feeling is stronger, and the fiber crops forging fabric that the present invention is provided as can be seen from Table 22 has excellent heat conductivility, leads Hot good fabric has good heat dispersion, during skin contact fabric, gives people instantaneous touch cooling feeling, this suitable summer face Material.
3) water retention test:Method of testing is as described below
1. the little cloth that sample after sizing is cut into 2cm × 5cm is put in water and soaks 30min;
2. the sample after immersion is put into in centrifuge the acceleration centrifugation 5min with 100g, rapid weighing after taking-up, note For:M1
3. sample is put in 100 DEG C of baking oven and dries 60min, weigh absolute dry weight, be designated as:M0
4. calculate water retention=(M1-M0)/M0× 100%;
Test according to the fiber crops forging fabric that above-mentioned method of testing is provided to embodiment 3, test result is as shown in table 23.
23 water retention test result of table
The fiber crops forging fabric that the present invention is provided as can be seen from Table 23 has very low water retention, and water retention is lower, represents phase Answer fabric dress nice and cool, it is quick-drying.
4) evaporation rate and hydrophilic test:
1. evaporation rate:The evaporation rate being evaporated to from fabric in surrounding by moisture content in the analytical unit time is weighing The nice and cool property of fabric.Method according to M&S P136A:Determined using instillation wet fabric method, instil in fabric face and steam Distilled water, in a certain time interval, the quality of test evaporation water calculates evaporation rate, measures the fiber crops forging fabric of the offer of embodiment 3 Evaporation rate=17.8% (M&S standards:>=17%), evaporation rate is bigger, and drying property is better.In addition evaporation rate and fabric weight It is relevant.The cloth of homogenous quantities, fabric are more frivolous, and evaporation rate is bigger, and dry rate is faster, and the easier drying of fabric, nice and cool property are better, Therefore, select lighter grammes per square metre during design as far as possible.
2. hydrophilic and wet guilding
The hydrophilic (absorbance) of fabric is evaluated using method of dripping, capillary effect evaluates the water conducting power of fabric, That is, wet guilding (wicking), concrete method of testing and standard it is as shown in table 24.
The method of testing and standard of 24 hydrophilic of table and wet guilding
Concrete test result is as shown in Table 25.
25 hydrophilic of table and wet guilding test result
As can be seen from Table 25, the fiber crops forging fabric that the present invention is provided has preferable hydrophilic and wet guilding, hydrophilic height Sth. made by twisting bafta can make one the steam of evacuator body and be absorbed quickly, and turn the moisture of people's evacuator body in time by its core sucting action The surface of fabric is moved on to, makes the micro climate between fabric and human body adjusted, skin keeps relatively dry.
5) washing fastness test:According to the method for testing of AATCC 124-2010, embodiment 2 and embodiment 3 are provided Fabric has carried out washing fastness test, and test result is:Jing after 5 families wash, the balling-up of fabric apparent fuzz is 4.0.
6) anti-microbial property test:According to the method for testing of FZ/T 73023-2006, antibiotic fabric sample is placed on and scribbles reality Test on the agar culture medium of bacterium, under conditions of regulation, determine the side that antibiotic fabric kills the transparent ring size that experimental bacteria is formed Method, the size of antibacterial ring size show the power of antimicrobial sample antibacterial effect.The anti-microbial property of the fiber crops forging fabric that the embodiment 3 of survey is provided (gold-coloured staphylococci) meets the requirement of FZ/T 73023-2006 standards A level.
7) Typical physical chemical index test, test result such as table 26 are shown.
26 Typical physical chemical index of table is tested
In sum, based on flax raw material, Caulis et Folium Lini is combined with terylene makes face to the cold fiber crops forging fabric of dazzling that the present invention is provided The loss of weaving cotton cloth of material is greatly lowered compared with pure fiber crops, is significantly reduced cost, is reduced the loss of raw materials/equipment;Meanwhile, By finishing functions, fabric is presented bright and clean outward appearance, the soft and smooth feel as silks and satins, and has nice and cool, antibacterial, hydroscopic fast-drying etc. excellent More performance.

Claims (10)

1. a kind of fiber crops forging fabric, which is through the following steps that prepare:
A, fiber crops are washed twisted yarn carry out including boiling yarn or dyeing, cross the pre-treatment of consistent lubricant;
B, twisted yarn is washed to the above-mentioned fiber crops through pre-treatment carrying out winder, twisted yarn is washed to the fiber crops during winder was carried out at wax Reason;
C, the fiber crops that Jing steps b were processed are washed twisted yarn row's weaving yarns are carried out with pure terylene filament, obtain fiber crops forging fabric;
In step a, the fiber crops are washed twisted yarn and are obtained with one fine-denier polyester yarns twisting by one linen thread and yarn, wherein, In the linen thread and yarn, the content of Caulis et Folium Lini is 100%, and the number of the linen thread and yarn is 28-36Nm, and twist TPI is 9-13.5;Institute Fine-denier polyester yarns are stated for 30D/12F semi-dull low elastic polyester filaments;It is 7-13 that the fiber crops wash twist TPI of twisted yarn;Described Caulis et Folium Lini The single thread of yarn twist with the fingers to for Z twist with the fingers;The fiber crops wash the sth. made by twisting of twisted yarn to twisting with the fingers for S.
2. fiber crops according to claim 1 forge fabric, wherein:In step a, the fiber crops wash the preparation of twisted yarn include it is following Step:
Linen thread and yarn and fine-denier polyester yarns are carried out into doubling, is then twisted, is obtained fiber crops and wash twisted yarn;Wherein:
When doubling is carried out, the ingot speed for controlling doubling frame is 4500-6500r/min;
When being twisted, the ingot speed for controlling twisting mill is 4000-6000r/min, and the tension force of linen thread and yarn is 5-20cN, fine-denier The tension force of dacron thread is 1-9cN.
3. fiber crops according to claim 1 forge fabric, wherein:In step c, when carrying out row's weaving yarns, fiber crops are kept to wash twisting Yarn is 12-15% containing damp rate.
4. fiber crops according to claim 1 forge fabric, wherein:After step c terminates, also include carrying out biology to fiber crops forging fabric The step of tissues and organs, softening agent arrangement, hydrophilic finiss and antibiotic finish.
5. fiber crops according to claim 1 forge fabric, wherein:In step c, the organizational structure of fiber crops forging fabric includes that one side is put down Stricture of vagina, PIQUE, PIQUE of trying to stop people from fighting each other, 6 mould PIQUEs or LACOSTE.
6. fiber crops according to claim 5 forge fabric, wherein:Row's yarn mode of the one side plain weave is:1st mould is washed for fiber crops and is added Twist yarn, the 2nd mould are pure terylene filament, and are weaved as minimal circulation unit;Or, the 1st mould is that pure terylene length is fine Silk, the 2nd mould washs twisted yarn for fiber crops, and is weaved as minimal circulation unit;
Row's yarn mode of the PIQUE is:1st mould is pure terylene filament, and the 2nd mould washs twisted yarn for fiber crops, and the 3rd mould is washed for pure Synthetic fibre filament, the 4th mould wash twisted yarn for fiber crops, and are weaved as minimal circulation unit;
Row's yarn mode of the PIQUE of trying to stop people from fighting each other is:1st mould is pure terylene filament and blended yarns made by elastic filament of trying to stop people from fighting each other, 2nd mould washs twisted yarn for fiber crops, and the 3rd mould is pure terylene filament and blended yarns made by elastic filament of trying to stop people from fighting each other, and the 4th mould is washed for fiber crops and added Twist yarn, and weaved as minimal circulation unit;
Row's yarn mode of the 6 mould PIQUE is:1st mould is pure terylene filament, and the 2nd mould and the 3rd mould are fiber crops and wash twisted yarn, 4th mould is pure terylene filament, and the 5th mould and the 6th mould are fiber crops and wash twisted yarn, and are weaved as minimal circulation unit;
Row's yarn mode of the LACOSTE is:1st mould is pure terylene filament, and the 2nd mould washs twisted yarn for fiber crops, and the 3rd mould is washed for pure Synthetic fibre filament, the 4th mould wash twisted yarn for fiber crops, and are weaved as minimal circulation unit.
7. the fiber crops according to any one of claim 1-3 forge fabric, wherein:In step c, when carrying out row's weaving yarns, keep What fiber crops washed twisted yarn is 12% containing damp rate.
8. the fiber crops according to any one of claim 1-3 forge fabric, wherein:In step c, when being weaved, board is controlled Rotating speed is 14-18r/min, and it is 8-12cN to enter yarn tension, and needle gage is 18-24G, a length of 50C=150-170mm of yarn.
9. fiber crops according to claim 4 forge fabric, wherein:At the biological filtering layer is included in 40-60 DEG C, by numb forging face Material is placed in enzyme washing liquid and processes 40-80min, wherein, the composition of the enzyme washing liquid includes:2-4g/L cellulases, 0.5-1g/L vinegar Sour sodium and 0.5-1g/L acetic acid, the fabric are 1 with the bath raio of enzyme washing liquid:18-40.
10. fiber crops according to claim 4 forge fabric, wherein:The softening agent arrange include by fiber crops forging fabric be placed in containing Processed in the solution of softening agent, wherein, the softening agent includes hydrophilic silicon oil, and its concentration is 2-75g/L;
The antibiotic finish includes fiber crops forging fabric is placed in the solution containing antibacterial finishing agent and is processed, wherein, it is described anti- Bacterium finishing agent includes organosilicon-quaternary ammonium compound, and its concentration is 20-40g/L.
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