CN104988622A - Hemp-terylene twisted yarn and hemp forging fabric made of same - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention provides a linen-polyester twisted yarn and a linen-forged fabric prepared therefrom. The linen-polyester twisted yarn is obtained by twisting flax yarn and fine-denier polyester yarn, wherein: the linen content in the linen yarn is 100%, the count of the linen yarn is 28-36Nm, and the twist TPI 9-13.5; the fine-denier polyester yarn is 30D/12F semi-dull polyester low-stretch yarn; the twist TPI of the linen-polyester twisted yarn is 7-13. The invention also provides a linen forging fabric prepared from the linen polyester twisted yarn. The linen-polyester twisted yarn provided by the invention can improve the difficulty of weaving of flax yarn, and the problems such as holes, yarn breakage and cloth stripping are easy to occur in the weaving process. Good sex, good contact cold feeling and so on.

Description

A kind of hemp-polyester twisted yarn and the hemp-forged fabric prepared therefrom

technical field

The invention relates to a hemp-polyester twisted yarn and a hemp-forged fabric prepared therefrom, belonging to the field of textile fabrics.

Background technique

Linen fabric is a traditional clothing fabric. The raw material of the fabric is natural and environmentally friendly, and the style is simple and elegant. Because the surface of the material is smooth and has cracks, it has a good luster. favored by foreign consumers. However, due to the characteristics of high rigidity of flax yarn, many hemp knots, dryness and hairiness, the fabric has the following weaknesses: ① Due to the high price of pure hemp raw materials, the weaving process is difficult and prone to breakage during weft knitting on large circular knitting machines Problems such as holes, yarn breakage, cloth stripping and broken needles make the weaving loss too large, and the weaving loss can be as high as 20%, resulting in high cost; ③Due to the characteristics of flax raw materials, the fabric feels rough and rigid, and the flax knots and hairiness lead to obvious discomfort and itching when wearing, and the yarn has high rigidity, small breaking work, and high elasticity. Poor recovery, easy to wrinkle and pilling on the cloth surface, not washable, which greatly reduces wearability and consumer satisfaction.

Therefore, research and develop a kind of novel flax fabric and become the problem demanding prompt solution in this area.

Contents of the invention

In order to solve the above-mentioned technical problems, the object of the present invention is to provide a linen-polyester twisted yarn and the linen-forged fabric prepared therefrom. The fabric is simple to weave, soft to the touch, good in drapability, and has excellent moisture absorption and desorption properties, and is washable. Performance, antimicrobial properties and cool to the touch.

In order to achieve the above object, the invention provides a linen polyester twisted yarn, which is obtained by twisting a strand of linen yarn and a strand of fine denier polyester yarn, wherein:

The content of flax in the flax yarn is 100%, the count of the flax yarn is 28-36Nm, and the twist TPI is 9-13.5 (TPI (twist per inch): the number of twists per inch of yarn);

The fine denier polyester yarn is 30D/12F semi-dull polyester low stretch yarn;

The twist TPI of the linen-polyester twisted yarn is 7-13.

In the above-mentioned linen-polyester twisted yarn, preferably, the twist direction of the single yarn of the linen yarn is Z twist; the twist direction of the linen-polyester twisted yarn is S-twist.

Adopting the linen yarn count (28-36Nm) provided by the present invention, the grammage of the fabric produced is smaller, which can increase the contact area between the fabric and the air, and the moisture will be lost faster, so as to achieve light and thin texture and air permeability Strong and fast moisture-conducting effect; in addition, 30D/12F semi-dull polyester low elastic yarn is used for twisting with the linen yarn, which can not only maintain the style of linen yarn as the main body, but also greatly increase the twisting of linen and polyester. The strength and softness of the overall yarn of the yarn, the fabric produced by using the hemp polyester twisted yarn has better air permeability, coolness and cold touch.

The present invention also provides a kind of method for preparing above-mentioned hemp polyester twisted yarn, it comprises the following steps:

Doubling linen yarn and fine denier polyester yarn, and then twisting to obtain linen polyester twisted yarn; wherein:

When paralleling, control the spindle speed of the paralleling machine to be 4500-6500r/min;

When twisting, the spindle speed of the control twisting machine is 4000-6000r/min, the tension of flax yarn is 5-20cN, and the tension of fine denier polyester yarn is 1-9cN.

The technical solution provided by the present invention reduces the tension of the polyester filament by increasing the tension of the linen yarn, which can prevent twisting and stretching in the early stage of the reverse twisting of the linen yarn in the Z-twisting direction during twisting, while the length of the untwisted polyester is Twist shrinkage occurs after the silk is twisted.

The present invention also provides a hemp forging fabric, which is prepared from the above-mentioned hemp polyester twisted yarn through the following steps:

a. Carry out the pre-treatment of the linen-polyester twisted yarn including cooking yarn or dyeing, and softening oil;

B, wind the above-mentioned hemp polyester twisted yarn through pretreatment, carry out wax treatment to described hemp polyester twisted yarn during winding;

c. Arranging and weaving the linen-polyester twisted yarn treated in step b and pure polyester filaments to obtain a linen-forged fabric.

In the above-mentioned hemp forged fabric, preferably, after step a, the moisture content of the hemp polyester twisted yarn is kept at 12-15%; in step b, when winding, the moisture content of the hemp polyester twisted yarn is kept. The tide rate is 12-15%.

In the above-mentioned hemp-forged fabric, preferably, in step c, when weaving the yarns, the moisture content of the hemp-polyester twisted yarn is kept at 12-15%.

In the above-mentioned hemp forging fabric, in step c, all the pure polyester filaments used in the field can be used in the technical solution provided by the present invention, and the polyester filaments can be preferably 150D/144F polyester filaments.

In the above-mentioned hemp forging fabric, preferably, after step c, the step of performing biological enzyme finishing, softener finishing, hydrophilic finishing and antibacterial finishing on the hemp forging fabric is also included.

The above-mentioned hemp forging fabric may also include the steps of dyeing and washing. The washing treatment can remove hydrophobic impurities on the hemp forging fabric, improve the hydrophilic property of the fabric, and make the fabric obtain the effect of moisture absorption and quick drying.

In the above-mentioned hemp forging fabric, the step of resin setting and finishing may also be included.

In the aforementioned hemp forging fabric, preferably, in step c, the weave structure of the hemp forging fabric includes single-sided plain weave, single piqué, frame single piqué, 6-mode single piqué or double piqué.

In the above-mentioned hemp forging fabric, preferably, the way of arranging the yarns of the single-sided plain weave is: the first mold is hemp polyester twisted yarn, the second mold is pure polyester long filament, and weaving is carried out with this as the minimum cycle unit (such as Shown in a in Fig. 1); Or, the 1st mold is pure polyester long filament, and the 2nd mold is hemp polyester twisted yarn, and weaving (as shown in b in Fig. 1) as the minimum cycle unit with this; The weaving process on the machine is shown in Table 1:

Table 1 Yarn weaving process of single plain weave

The single-sided plain weave adopts this special weaving method of yarn arrangement (as shown in Figure 1), which can make the cloth surface smoother and softer, with satin-like drapability, making it cooler and more comfortable to wear.

In the above-mentioned hemp forging fabric, preferably, the yarn arrangement method of the single bead ground is: the first mold is pure polyester filament yarn, the second mold is hemp polyester twisted yarn, the third mold is pure polyester filament yarn, and the second mold is pure polyester filament yarn. Model 4 is hemp-polyester twisted yarn, which is used as the smallest cycle unit for weaving; the weaving process on the machine is shown in Table 2:

Table 2 Yarn arrangement and weaving process of single pique

The single-piqué weave adopts this special weaving method of yarn arrangement (as shown in Figure 2), which can not only retain the unique three-dimensional sense and texture of the weave structure, but also improve the soft and draped feel of the fabric and the smooth appearance.

In the above-mentioned hemp forging fabric, preferably, the yarn arrangement method of the frame single bead ground is as follows: the first mold is a mixed yarn made of pure polyester filament and frame elastic yarn, and the second mold is linen polyester twisted yarn. Yarn, the third model is a blended yarn made of pure polyester filament and stretch yarn, and the fourth model is linen polyester twisted yarn, which is used as the smallest cycle unit for weaving; the weaving process on the machine is shown in the table 3 shows:

Table 3 Yarn arrangement and weaving process of frame and single bead

This special weaving method (as shown in Figure 3) is adopted for the frame single-pearl weaving, which not only retains the unique three-dimensional sense and texture of the weave structure, but also improves the soft and draped feel of the fabric and the smooth appearance. The fabric has good elastic stretch and recovery properties.

In the above-mentioned hemp forging fabric, preferably, the yarn arrangement method of the 6-mode single bead ground is as follows: the first mode is pure polyester filament, the second mode and the third mode are both hemp polyester twisted yarns, and the fourth mode is pure polyester filament yarn. The mold is pure polyester filament, and the fifth and sixth molds are hemp-polyester twisted yarns, which are used as the smallest cycle unit for weaving; the weaving process on the machine is shown in Table 4:

Table 4 Yarn weaving process of 6-mode single piqué

The 6-mode single-piqué weaving method adopts this special weaving method (as shown in Figure 4), which can not only retain the unique big pearl effect and texture of the weave structure, but also greatly improve the soft drape and smoothness of the fabric. Appearance.

In the above-mentioned fabric, preferably, the yarn arrangement method of the double piqué is as follows: the first mold is pure polyester filament, the second mold is hemp polyester twisted yarn, the third mold is pure polyester filament, and the second mold is pure polyester filament. Model 4 is hemp-polyester twisted yarn, which is used as the smallest cycle unit for weaving; the weaving process on the machine is shown in Table 5:

Table 5 Yarn arrangement and weaving process of double piqué

The double piqué weaving method adopts this special weaving method (as shown in Figure 5), which can not only retain the unique honeycomb mesh effect and texture of the weave structure, but also greatly improve the soft drape and smooth appearance of the fabric.

In the above-mentioned hemp forged fabric, preferably, in step c, when carrying out rowing and weaving, keep the moisture content of the hemp polyester twisted yarn at 12%; more preferably, when weaving, control the machine speed to be 14- 18r/min, the yarn feeding tension is 8-12cN, the gauge is 18-24G, and the yarn length is 50C=150-170mm (50C represents the total length of 50 coils). Due to the high rigidity of the flax yarn, many hemp knots, dryness and other characteristics, the weaving process is difficult during weft knitting on a large circular machine, and problems such as holes, broken yarns, cloth stripping and broken needles are prone to occur. The method provided by the invention is Using the technology of flax yarn and polyester twisting, the difficulty of weaving is greatly reduced. The technical solution provided by the invention controls the moisture content of the linen and polyester twisted yarn to 12-15% during the weaving process, which can ensure the smooth operation of the loom , to prevent yarn breakage and reduce defects.

In the above-mentioned linen-polyester twisted yarn, the knitting equipment used for weaving includes a FEED machine equipped with a positive yarn feeding device or an automatic inter-machine equipped with a semi-positive yarn feeding device, wherein: the FEED machine is a single-sided circular knitting machine. machine.

In the above-mentioned hemp forging fabric, preferably, the biological enzyme finishing includes placing the hemp forging fabric in an enzyme lotion for 40-80 minutes at 40-60°C, wherein the composition of the enzyme lotion includes: 2 - 4g/L cellulase, 0.5-1g/L sodium acetate and 0.5-1g/L acetic acid, the bath ratio of the fabric to the enzyme lotion is 1:18-40.

In the aforementioned hemp fabric, preferably, the softening includes placing the hemp fabric in a solution containing a softener for treatment, wherein the softener includes hydrophilic silicone oil, and the hydrophilic silicone oil is more preferably Hydrophilic textile finishing agent JSS or STS, its concentration is 2-75g/L.

In the actual production process, soft finishing can be carried out step by step: when dyeing or washing the hemp fabric, the above-mentioned hydrophilic textile finishing agent can be added in the dyeing bath or washing bath, and its concentration is 2-5g /L, the use conditions can be carried out according to the dyeing requirements or washing water requirements; when the resin-shaped finish is carried out on the hemp forging fabric, the above-mentioned hydrophilic textile finishing agent can be added to the sizing finishing solution, and its concentration is 25-75g /L, its use conditions can be carried out according to the requirements of resin setting and finishing.

In the above-mentioned hemp forging fabric, preferably, the antibacterial finishing includes placing the hemp forging fabric in a solution containing an antibacterial finishing agent for treatment, wherein the antibacterial finishing agent includes organic silicon-quaternary ammonium salt compounds, the concentration of which is It is 20-40g/L.

In actual production, the antibacterial finishing can be carried out in the same bath as the resin setting finishing, that is, the above antibacterial finishing agent is added to the resin setting finishing solution, and the use conditions can be carried out according to the requirements of the resin setting finishing.

The flax fiber is straight and clean, without distortion of cotton, wool and other fibers. Although this feature makes it lose the elasticity of fiber products and is easy to wrinkle, its straight and clean fiber structure makes it difficult for bacteria to breed. Therefore, flax fiber has a significant antibacterial effect on Pseudomonas aeruginosa, albicans, Escherichia coli, and Staphylococcus aureus. The invention adopts the antibacterial finishing technology, which can greatly improve the antibacterial performance of the fabric and reduce the harm of bacteria to the human body. The method provided by the invention can chemically combine the antibacterial finishing agent with the fabric, and the finished fabric can resist the invasion of germs through the effectively controlled release, regeneration principle, and blocking or blocking effect.

In the aforementioned hemp-forged fabric, preferably, after the above-mentioned series of post-finishing, the hemp-forged fabric has a grammage of 150-230 g/m ³ , and the smaller the grammage per unit area of the fabric, the greater the contact area between the fabric and the air. The bigger it is, the faster the moisture will be lost, so under the same hygroscopicity conditions, the smaller the weight of the fabric, the better its coolness and breathability.

The implementation process in actual production may include: yarn pretreatment→weaving→cloth inspection→cloth preparation→opening→enzyme washing→dyeing (oversoft oil/piece dyeing) or washing water (oversoft oil/yarn dyeing)→dehydration→ Left and right → SANT drying → mid-term inspection → setting (oversoft oil) → pre-shrinking → post-inspection.

The technical scheme provided by the invention makes the raw material suitable for weaving by improving the flax yarn, which is not easy to break, reduces the loss of the yarn and the defect of the cloth surface in the knitting process, and improves the weaving production capacity. In addition, through the improvement of raw materials, that is, by using fine-denier polyester yarn to wrap the linen yarn with a certain process, the hand feeling and wearing performance can be effectively improved. In addition, the fabric structure, dyeing and washing process, soft treatment and finishing process have been improved, so that the fabric is completely different from ordinary linen fabrics. The hemp forging fabric provided by the invention has the following characteristics:

1) The weaving is simple, which has changed the defects that flax yarn is not easy to weave, and is prone to problems such as holes, yarn breakage, cloth stripping and broken needles during the weaving process, making large-scale production possible;

2) The surface of the fabric is smooth and clean, the handle is particularly soft, the drapability is good, and it is comfortable to wear;

3) It has strong moisture absorption and moisture release properties, the fabric is dry and breathable, and it is cool to wear;

4) Has an excellent contact cold feeling;

5) It has antibacterial and antibacterial properties;

6) Good washability, not easy to fluff and pilling.

Description of drawings

Fig. 1 is the weaving schematic diagram of plain weave;

Fig. 2 is the weaving schematic diagram of single pearl ground structure;

Fig. 3 is the weaving schematic diagram of the single bead structure of the rack;

Fig. 4 is the weaving schematic diagram of 6-mode single-piqué weaving;

Fig. 5 is a schematic diagram of weaving double pique.

Detailed ways

In order to have a clearer understanding of the technical features, purposes and beneficial effects of the present invention, the technical solution of the present invention is described in detail below, but it should not be construed as limiting the scope of implementation of the present invention.

Example 1

This embodiment provides a kind of hemp polyester twisted yarn, the preparation method of this hemp polyester twisted yarn comprises the following steps:

Select 100% flax yarn (yarn count is 28Nm, 36Nm respectively), determine that the twist TPI of the flax yarn of 28Nm is 9.5+/-2%, and the twist TPI of the flax yarn of 36Nm is 13.5+/-2%, determine the twist direction of the single yarn linen as "Z" twist, and the twist direction of polyester twist as "S" twist;

Select fine-denier polyester yarn (the polyester yarn is 30D/12F semi-dull polyester low-elasticity yarn, which is made of polyester chips, which is processed by high-speed spinning polyester pre-oriented yarn and processed by drafting and false twisting). Silk is false twist (can be considered as no twist);

After selecting the yarn, clean the machine before weaving to ensure that the yarn fly is removed on the machine, and then twist the above two yarns according to the following process (one strand of linen yarn and one strand of fine denier Polyester yarn is twisted): 30D fine-denier polyester yarn and the above-mentioned linen yarn (28Nm, 36Nm) are first paralleled (the spindle speed of the parallel machine is 6200r/min), and twisted after the paralleling is completed (twisting Machine spindle speed is 5500r/min), when twisting, the tension force of controlling flax yarn is 5-20cN, and the tension force of polyester filament is 1-9cN (when twisting, the flax yarn of Z twist direction is reverse twisted. It will lead to twisting and stretching in the early stage, and twist shrinkage after twisting of untwisted polyester filament. Therefore, the tension of S-twisting and parallel twisting should increase the tension of linen yarn and reduce the tension of polyester filament), after twisting The twist direction of the obtained linen-polyester twisted yarn is "S", and its twist (TPI) is shown in Table 6 below.

The hemp polyester twisted yarn obtained in Example 1 was woven, and the woven sample was tested (the test results are shown in Table 6), and compared with the comparative example (Table 7).

The test result of table 6 embodiment 1

It can be seen from Table 6 that the linen-polyester twisted yarn obtained by twisting the 28Nm, 36Nm linen yarn and the 30D/12F polyester yarn can weave smoothly when the twist TPI is 7-13. When the yarn twist (TPI) is too large or too low (as shown in Table 7), it is not conducive to weaving. In addition, choosing a linen yarn count of 28-36Nm can obtain a fabric with light texture, strong air permeability, and fast moisture permeability, because the smaller the weight per unit area of the fabric, the larger the contact surface between the fabric and the air, so that moisture can be lost faster , so under the same moisture absorption conditions, the smaller the weight of the fabric, the better its coolness and air permeability, which meets the weight requirements of spring and summer fabrics.

The test result of table 7 comparative example

The strength test was carried out on the hemp-polyester twisted yarn obtained in Example 1. The test process was carried out according to the Uster test method, and the test results are shown in Table 8.

Table 8 Strength test results

As can be seen from Table 8: compared with the 36Nm linen yarn before twisting, the yarn count of the linen polyester twisted yarn provided by this embodiment becomes thicker, the twist (TPI) decreases, the yarn strength increases, and the weavability improves. At the same time, the rigidity is reduced, the fabric feels soft and has good elastic recovery.

The fluffiness test was carried out on the linen-polyester twisted yarn provided in Example 1 (the twist TPI of the twisted yarn was 12), the test process was carried out according to the Uster test method, and the test results are shown in Table 9.

Table 9 hairiness test results

It can be seen from Table 9: compared with the 36Nm linen yarn before twisting, the hairiness index of the linen-polyester twisted yarn provided by this embodiment is reduced, which is conducive to smooth cloth surface and comfortable wearing.

The linen-polyester twisted yarn and linen yarn provided in Example 1 were made into fabrics respectively, and the water retention rate test was carried out. The test results are shown in Table 10.

As can be seen from Table 10: compared with the 36Nm flax yarn before twisting, the water retention rate of the hemp polyester twisted yarn provided by this embodiment is lower, and the lower water retention rate means that the moisture retention in the fabric after the fabric absorbs moisture Less, the water vapor in the fabric is easy to dissipate, that is, the moisture dissipation is good, and the fabric is easy to keep dry, which is beneficial to improving the coolness of the fabric. In addition, the water retention rate is low, the fabric contains less water after being squeezed, and is easy to dry, which is conducive to low-carbon and energy-saving.

The thermal conductivity test was performed on the linen-polyester twisted yarn provided in Example 1, and the thermal conductivity of the fabric reflects the heat transfer speed of the fabric. The fabric with good thermal conductivity has good heat dissipation performance. When the skin touches the fabric, it gives people an instant cool feeling. It is suitable as a summer fabric. The specific test method of thermal conductivity is carried out according to GB/T 11048-2008. The test results are shown in Table 11. .

Table 10 Water retention test results

Table 11 Thermal conductivity test results

Note: Contact cold and temperature test conditions: room temperature: 20.1°C, humidity: 65%±4%RH, ①ΔT=10°C, ②ΔT=20°C, measurement surface: wrapped surface.

It can be seen from Table 11 that: compared with the 36Nm linen yarn before twisting, the linen-polyester twisted yarn provided by this embodiment has a larger heat flux (W/cm ² ) passing through the unit contact area instantaneously, and the instant passing through The larger the heat flow per unit contact area (W/cm ² ), the stronger the cool feeling on contact, and the better the cold and warm feeling effect of the fabric produced, and the more cool feeling when wearing it.

Example 2

This embodiment provides a kind of hemp forging fabric, which is made by adopting the hemp polyester twisted yarn (36Nm linen/30D/12F polyester, the twist TPI of the twisted yarn is 12) provided in Example 1. Its preparation The method includes the following steps:

1) Carry out pretreatment to hemp polyester twisted yarn, the technique of described pretreatment is as follows:

Put the hemp polyester twisted yarn (36Nm linen/30D/12F polyester, the twist TPI of the twisted yarn is 12) in a water bath at 100°C for 60 minutes; then place the cooked hemp polyester twisted yarn in a 4g/L In the softening agent solution (the softening agent used is JSS soft oil (Magnasoft JSS)), treat at 50°C for 15 minutes; then dehydrate and dry to control the moisture content to 12%, and wax during winding (the wax content can be controlled during waxing). tidal rate 12%);

2) Woven cloth

a. On-machine inspection: use a large circular machine for weaving, control the machine speed to 16r/min, adjust the tension to 10cN, check the cloth surface every 5 pieces of gray cloth to prevent holes and broken needles, and inspect the first 3 pieces of cloth and whether there is any damage For gray fabrics with holes, the stitch length is 24G, the loop length is 160mm/50 stitches, and the moisture content of the yarn is controlled by a spray device on the machine to control the moisture content of the yarn to 12%;

b. Yarn weaving: the first mold is hemp polyester twisted yarn, the second mold is pure polyester filament, and weaves it as the smallest cycle unit (as shown in a in Figure 1), and weaves it on the machine The process is as shown in Table 1, and the single-sided plain hemp forging fabric is obtained;

3) finishing after dyeing

a. Enzyme washing the above hemp forging fabric: the biological enzyme used is cellulase, which is the CELLUSOFT ^TM enzyme produced by Novozymes (China) Biotechnology Co., Ltd.; enzyme washing process: adjust the pH value to 5.5 with acetic acid, and then Use the enzyme washing solution prepared in Table 12 below for biological enzyme finishing, with a bath ratio of 1:25, and treat at 50°C for 60 minutes.

Table 12 Composition of Enzyme Washing Solution

ingredients concentration Sodium acetate NaAc 0.5g/L Acetate HAc 0.5g/L CELLUSOFT CR50*CX45’PROG 0120(B) 2g/L

b. Dyeing: Dye the fabric after enzyme washing, adopt conventional dyeing process, and add 2g/L JSS soft oil (Magnasoft JSS) to the dye solution, then dehydrate and dry.

c. Washing treatment: Before feeding the cloth, first clean the equipment with the prepared cleaning solution, and then wash the above-mentioned fabrics. The washing temperature is 80°C, and the washing time is 30 minutes. The composition is shown in Table 13. After washing, the fabric can be tested for hydrophilicity.

Table 13 Composition of washing water treatment solution

ingredients concentration Manufacturer Penetrant FKS 1.0g/L Qianjiang Xianqiao Chemical Products Co., Ltd. Low temperature degreasing agent DM-133 0.8g/L Guangdong Demei Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. Anti-wrinkle agent CIBA FLUID C 1.0g/L Huntsman Textile Effects (China) Co., Ltd. Na ₂ CO ₃ 0.5g/L

d. Softener resin finishing and antibacterial finishing: the above-mentioned dyed fabrics were placed in a setting finishing solution, the setting temperature was 150°C, and the speed of the setting machine was 20m/min. The composition of the finishing solution is shown in Table 14.

Table 14 Composition of sizing finishing solution

ingredients concentration Manufacturer Resin finishing agent (dimethylol ethylene urea) 30g/L BASF (China) Co., Ltd.

Catalyst (magnesium chloride) 6g/L JSS soft oil (Magnasoft JSS) 50g/L Ming Kee Hong Kong Cleaning Products Co., Ltd. Penetrant (fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene) 1-2g/L Antibacterial agent (Ultra-fresh NM) 35g/L Novozymes (China) Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

A hemp forged fabric with a cool texture is obtained. The cool texture means that the hemp forged fabric has a smooth appearance, a satin-like smooth feel, and has excellent properties such as coolness, antibacterial, moisture absorption and quick drying.

Example 3

This embodiment provides a kind of hemp forging fabric, which is made by using the hemp polyester twisted yarn (36Nm flax/30D/12F polyester, the twist TPI of the twisted yarn is 12) provided in Example 1. The preparation method comprises the following steps:

1) Dyeing and pretreatment are carried out to hemp polyester twisted yarn, and the technology of described pretreatment is as follows:

The linen-polyester twisted yarn was dyed conventionally, and then placed in a 4g/L softener solution, the softener used was JSS soft oil (Magnasoft JSS), and treated at 50°C for 15 minutes; then dehydrated and dried to control the content of The moisture rate is 12%, and the wax is passed during the winding (the moisture content can be controlled to 12% when the wax is passed);

2) Woven cloth

a. On-machine inspection: use a large circular machine for weaving, control the machine speed to 16r/min, adjust the tension to 10cN, check the cloth surface every 5 pieces of gray cloth to prevent holes and broken needles, and inspect the first 3 pieces of cloth and whether there is any damage For gray fabrics with holes, the stitch length is 24G, the loop length is 160mm/50 stitches, and the moisture content of the yarn is controlled by a spray device on the machine to control the moisture content of the yarn to 12%;

b. Yarn weaving: the first mold is pure polyester filament, the second mold is hemp polyester twisted yarn, and weaves it as the smallest cycle unit (as shown in b in Figure 1), and weaves it on the machine The process is as shown in Table 1, and the single-sided plain hemp forging fabric is obtained;

3) Finishing

a. Enzyme washing the fabric: the biological enzyme used is cellulase, which is CELLUSOFT ^TM enzyme produced by Novozymes (China) Biotechnology Co., Ltd.; enzyme washing process: adjust the pH value to 5.5 with acetic acid, and then use according to the following The enzyme washing solution prepared in Table 15 was subjected to biological enzyme finishing, the bath ratio was 1:25, and treated at 50°C for 60 minutes.

b. Over-softening: Treat the enzyme-washed hemp fabric over-softening oil in an aqueous solution containing 2g/L JSS soft oil at 45°C for 30min, then dehydrate and dry.

Table 15 Composition of Enzyme Washing Solution

c. Washing treatment: Before feeding the cloth, first clean the equipment with the prepared cleaning solution, and then wash the above-mentioned fabrics. The washing temperature is 80°C, and the washing time is 30 minutes. The composition is shown in Table 16. After washing, the fabric can be tested for hydrophilicity.

Table 16 Composition of washing water treatment solution

ingredients concentration Manufacturer Penetrant FKS 1.0g/L Qianjiang Xianqiao Chemical Products Co., Ltd. Low temperature degreasing agent DM-133 0.8g/L Guangdong Demei Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. Anti-wrinkle agent CIBA FLUID C 1.0g/L Huntsman Textile Effects (China) Co., Ltd. Na ₂ CO ₃ 0.5g/L

d. Softener resin finishing and antibacterial finishing: put the above-mentioned hemp-forged fabric in the finishing solution, the setting temperature is 150°C, and the speed of the setting machine is 20m/min. The composition of the finishing solution is shown in Table 17.

Table 17 Composition of sizing finishing solution

ingredients concentration Manufacturer Resin finishing agent (dimethylol ethylene urea) 30g/L BASF (China) Co., Ltd. Catalyst (magnesium chloride) 6g/L JSS soft oil (Magnasoft JSS) 50g/L Ming Kee Hong Kong Cleaning Products Co., Ltd. Penetrant (fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene) 1-2g/L BASF (China) Co., Ltd. Antibacterial agent (Ultra-fresh NM) 35g/L Novozymes (China) Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

A hemp forging fabric with cool texture is obtained.

Example 4

This embodiment provides a kind of hemp forging fabric, which is made by adopting the hemp polyester twisted yarn (36Nm linen/30D/12F polyester, the twist TPI of the twisted yarn is 12) provided in Example 1. Its preparation The method includes the following steps:

1) Dyeing and pretreatment are carried out to hemp polyester twisted yarn, and the technology of described pretreatment is as follows:

The linen-polyester twisted yarn was dyed conventionally, and then placed in a 4g/L softener solution (the softener used was JSS soft oil (Magnasoft JSS), treated at 50°C for 15 minutes; then dehydrated and dried to control the content of The moisture rate is 12%, and the wax is passed during the winding, and the moisture content can be controlled to 12% when the wax is passed;

2) Woven cloth

a. On-machine inspection: use a large circular machine for weaving, control the machine speed to 16r/min, adjust the yarn feeding tension to 10cN, check the cloth surface every 5 pieces of gray cloth to prevent holes and broken needles, and inspect the first 3 pieces of cloth and For gray fabrics with holes, the stitch length is 24G, the loop length is 160mm/50 stitches, and the moisture content of the yarn is controlled by a spray device on the machine to control the moisture content of the yarn to 12%;

b. Yarn weaving: the first mold is pure polyester filament yarn, the second mold is hemp polyester twisted yarn, the third mold is pure polyester filament yarn, the fourth mold is hemp polyester twisted yarn, and Weaving (as shown in Figure 2) for the smallest cycle unit, the technology of its upper machine weaving is as shown in Table 2, and obtains the single bead ground hemp forging fabric;

3) Finishing

a. Enzyme washing the fabric: the biological enzyme used is cellulase, which is CELLUSOFT ^TM enzyme produced by Novozymes (China) Biotechnology Co., Ltd.; enzyme washing process: adjust the pH value to 5.5 with acetic acid, and then use according to the following The enzyme washing solution prepared in Table 18 was subjected to biological enzyme finishing, the bath ratio was 1:25, and treated at 50°C for 60 minutes.

b. Over-softening: Treat the enzyme-washed hemp fabric over-softening oil in an aqueous solution containing 2g/L JSS soft oil at 45°C for 10min, then dehydrate and dry.

Table 18 Composition of Enzyme Washing Solution

c. Washing treatment: Before feeding the cloth, first clean the equipment with the prepared cleaning solution, and then wash the above-mentioned fabrics. The washing temperature is 80°C, and the washing time is 30 minutes. The composition is shown in Table 19. After washing, the fabric can be tested for hydrophilicity.

Table 19 Composition of washing water treatment solution

ingredients concentration Manufacturer Penetrant FKS 1.0g/L Qianjiang Xianqiao Chemical Products Co., Ltd. Low temperature degreasing agent DM-133 0.8g/L Guangdong Demei Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. Anti-wrinkle agent CIBA FLUID C 1.0g/L Huntsman Textile Effects (China) Co., Ltd. Na ₂ CO ₃ 0.5g/L

d. Softener resin finishing and antibacterial finishing: put the above-mentioned hemp-forged fabric in the finishing solution, the setting temperature is 150°C, and the speed of the setting machine is 20m/min. The composition of the finishing solution is shown in Table 20.

Table 20 Composition of sizing finishing solution

ingredients concentration Manufacturer Resin finishing agent (dimethylol ethylene urea) 30g/L BASF (China) Co., Ltd. Catalyst (magnesium chloride) 6g/L JSS soft oil (Magnasoft JSS) 50g/L Ming Kee Hong Kong Cleaning Products Co., Ltd. Penetrant (fatty alcohol polyoxyethylene) 1-2g/L

Antibacterial agent (Ultra-fresh NM) 35g/L Novozymes (China) Biotechnology Co., Ltd.

A hemp forged fabric with a cool texture is obtained. The cool texture means that the hemp forged fabric has a smooth appearance, a satin-like smooth feel, and has excellent properties such as coolness, antibacterial, moisture absorption and quick drying.

Example 5

The present embodiment has carried out following performance test to the hemp forging fabric that above-mentioned embodiment 3 provides:

1) Air permeability test: The index to measure the air permeability is the air permeability, that is, under the specified sample area, pressure and time conditions, the airflow rate (mm/s or m/s) passing through the sample vertically. According to the textile air permeability test method, the hemp forging fabric provided in Example 3 was tested for air permeability, and the test results are shown in Table 21 below.

Table 21 Air permeability test results

Air permeability affects the heat and humidity balance of clothing. The more gas (cm ³ ) permeated through a unit area (cm ² ) of clothing fabric per unit time second (s), the better the air permeability of the fabric. It can be seen from Table 21 The hemp forging fabric provided by the invention has good air permeability, and the better the air permeability is, the better it is to dissipate body heat and accelerate the air exchange speed in the clothing.

2) Cold touch (thermal conductivity): According to the test method of GB/T 11048-2008, the hemp forged fabric provided in Example 3 was tested for cold touch, and the test results are shown in Table 22.

Table 22 Cold touch test results

Note: Contact cold and temperature test conditions: room temperature: 20.1°C, humidity: 65%±4%RH, ①ΔT=10°C, ②ΔT=20°C, measurement surface: wrapped surface.

The thermal conductivity of the fabric reflects the heat transfer speed of the fabric. The larger the heat flow (W/cm ² ) passing through the unit contact area in an instant, the stronger the cool feeling when touching. It can be seen from Table 22 that the hemp forging fabric provided by the present invention has excellent Excellent thermal conductivity, fabrics with good thermal conductivity have good heat dissipation performance, when the skin touches the fabric, it gives people an instant cool feeling, which is suitable for summer fabrics.

3) Water retention test: the test method is as follows

① Cut the sample into 2cm×5cm small cloth strips and soak in water for 30min;

2. Put the soaked sample into the centrifuge for 5min at an acceleration of 100g, weigh it quickly after taking it out, and record it as: M ₁ ;

③Put the sample in an oven at 100°C and bake for 60 minutes, weigh the absolute dry weight, and record it as: M ₀ ;

④ Calculation of water retention = (M ₁ -M ₀ )/M ₀ ×100%;

The hemp-forged fabric provided in Example 3 was tested according to the above-mentioned test method, and the test results are shown in Table 23.

Table 23 Water retention test results

It can be seen from Table 23 that the hemp-forged fabric provided by the present invention has a very low water retention rate, and the lower the water retention rate, the corresponding fabric is cool to wear and quick-drying.

4) Evaporation rate and hydrophilicity test:

① Evaporation rate: measure the coolness of the fabric by measuring the evaporation rate of water from the fabric to the surrounding environment per unit time. According to the method described in M&S P136A: adopt dripping wetting fabric method to measure, drip distilled water on the fabric surface, within a certain time interval, test the quality of evaporated water, calculate evaporation rate, record the hemp forging fabric that embodiment 3 provides Evaporation rate = 17.8% (M&S standard: ≥17%), the greater the evaporation rate, the better the drying performance. In addition, the evaporation rate is also related to the weight of the fabric. For the same quality of cloth, the lighter and thinner the fabric, the greater the evaporation rate, the faster the drying rate, the easier the fabric is to dry, and the better the coolness. Therefore, try to choose a lighter weight when designing.

②Hydrophilicity and moisture permeability

The water drop method was used to evaluate the hydrophilicity (absorbance) of the fabric, and the capillary effect was used to evaluate the water conductivity of the fabric, that is, the moisture permeability (wicking). The specific test methods and standards are shown in Table 24.

Table 24 Test methods and standards for hydrophilicity and moisture conductivity

The specific test results are shown in Table 25.

Table 25 Hydrophilicity and moisture permeability test results

As can be seen from Table 25, the hemp forged fabric provided by the present invention has good hydrophilicity and moisture conductivity, and the hydrophilic high-twisted cotton fabric can quickly absorb the water vapor evaporated from the human body, and absorb it quickly through its wicking effect. The water evaporated from the human body is transferred to the surface of the fabric in time, so that the microclimate between the fabric and the human body is adjusted, and the skin is kept relatively dry.

5) Washability test: according to the test method of AATCC 124-2010, the fabrics provided in Example 2 and Example 3 were tested for washability, and the test results were: after 5 times of home washing, the appearance of the fabric was fluffy and pilling is 4.0.

6) Antibacterial performance test: According to the test method of FZ/T 73023-2006, the antibacterial fabric sample is placed on the agar medium coated with the experimental bacteria, and under the specified conditions, the transparent ring formed by the antibacterial fabric killing the experimental bacteria is measured The size of the method, the size of the inhibition zone indicates the strength of the antibacterial effect of the antibacterial sample. The antibacterial property (staphylococcus aureus) of the hemp forging fabric that the embodiment 3 of survey provides meets FZ/T 73023-2006 standard A grade requirement.

7) Routine physical and chemical index test, the test results are shown in Table 26.

Table 26 Routine physical and chemical index test

In summary, the cold dazzle hemp forging fabric provided by the present invention is mainly made of flax, and the combination of flax and polyester greatly reduces the weaving loss of the fabric compared with pure hemp, greatly reduces the cost, and reduces the cost of raw materials/ At the same time, through functional finishing, the fabric presents a smooth appearance, a satin-like smooth feel, and has superior properties such as coolness, antibacterial, moisture absorption and quick drying.

Claims (10)

1. A linen polyester twisted yarn is obtained by twisting one strand of linen yarn and one strand of fine denier polyester yarn, wherein: The content of flax in the flax yarn is 100%, the count of the flax yarn is 28-36Nm, and the twist TPI is 9-13.5; The fine denier polyester yarn is 30D/12F semi-dull polyester low stretch yarn; The twist TPI of the linen-polyester twisted yarn is 7-13. 2. The hemp polyester twisted yarn according to claim 1, wherein: the twist direction of the single yarn of the flax yarn is Z twist; the twist direction of the hemp polyester twisted yarn is S twist. 3. a method for preparing the hemp polyester twisted yarn described in claim 1 or 2, it may further comprise the steps: Doubling linen yarn and fine denier polyester yarn, and then twisting to obtain linen polyester twisted yarn; wherein: When paralleling, control the spindle speed of the paralleling machine to be 4500-6500r/min; When twisting, the spindle speed of the control twisting machine is 4000-6000r/min, the tension of flax yarn is 5-20cN, and the tension of fine denier polyester yarn is 1-9cN. 4. a kind of hemp forging fabric, it is prepared by the following steps by the hemp polyester twisted yarn described in claim 1 or 2: a. Carry out the pre-treatment of the linen-polyester twisted yarn including cooking yarn or dyeing, and softening oil; B, wind the above-mentioned hemp polyester twisted yarn through pretreatment, carry out wax treatment to described hemp polyester twisted yarn during winding; c. Arranging and weaving the hemp-polyester twisted yarn treated in step b and pure polyester filaments to obtain hemp-forged fabric. 5. The hemp-forged fabric according to claim 4, wherein: in step c, when weaving the yarns, keep the moisture content of the hemp-polyester twisted yarn at 12-15%. 6. The hemp forged fabric according to claim 4, wherein: after step c, further includes the steps of performing biological enzyme finishing, softener finishing, hydrophilic finishing and antibacterial finishing on the hemp forging fabric. 7. The hemp forging fabric according to claim 4, wherein: in step c, the organizational structure of the hemp forging fabric includes single-sided plain weave, single bead, frame single bead, 6-mode single bead or double bead; Preferably, the yarn arrangement method of the single-sided plain weave is as follows: the first mold is hemp-polyester twisted yarn, the second mold is pure polyester filament, and weaves with this as the minimum cycle unit; or, the first mold is Pure polyester filament, the second mold is hemp polyester twisted yarn, and weaving with this as the smallest cycle unit; The yarn arrangement method of the single bead is as follows: the first mold is pure polyester filament yarn, the second mold is linen polyester twisted yarn, the third mold is pure polyester filament yarn, and the fourth mold is linen polyester twisted yarn , and use this as the minimum cycle unit for weaving; The method of arranging yarns for the frame single bead ground is as follows: the first model is a mixed yarn made of pure polyester filament and frame elastic yarn, the second model is hemp polyester twisted yarn, and the third model is pure polyester long fiber The blended yarn made of silk and spandex yarn, the fourth mold is linen polyester twisted yarn, which is used as the smallest cycle unit for weaving; The yarn arrangement method of the 6-mode single bead ground is as follows: the first mode is pure polyester filament, the second mode and the third mode are hemp polyester twisted yarn, the fourth mode is pure polyester filament, and the fifth mode is pure polyester filament. The first mold and the sixth mold are both hemp polyester twisted yarn, and weaving with this as the smallest cycle unit; The yarn arrangement method of the double bead ground is as follows: the first mold is pure polyester filament yarn, the second mold is hemp polyester twisted yarn, the third mold is pure polyester filament yarn, and the fourth mold is hemp polyester twisted yarn , and use this as the minimum cycle unit for weaving. 8. The hemp-forged fabric according to claim 4 or 5, wherein: in step c, when carrying out row yarn weaving, keep the moisture content of the hemp-polyester twisted yarn at 12%; Preferably, when weaving, the machine speed is controlled to be 14-18r/min, the yarn feeding tension is 8-12cN, the needle distance is 18-24G, and the yarn length is 50C=150-170mm. 9. The hemp forging fabric according to claim 6, wherein: the biological enzyme finishing includes placing the hemp forging fabric in an enzyme lotion for 40-80 minutes at 40-60°C, wherein the enzyme lotion The composition comprises: 2-4g/L cellulase, 0.5-1g/L sodium acetate and 0.5-1g/L acetic acid, and the bath ratio of the fabric to the enzyme lotion is 1:18-40. 10. The hemp forging fabric according to claim 6, wherein: the soft finishing includes placing the hemp forging fabric in a solution containing a softener for processing, wherein the softener includes hydrophilic silicone oil at a concentration of 2-75g/L; The antibacterial finishing includes treating the linen fabric in a solution containing an antibacterial finishing agent, wherein the antibacterial finishing agent includes organic silicon-quaternary ammonium salt compounds with a concentration of 20-40 g/L.