CN104389095A - French rib fabric containing 50 percent of wool, 35 percent of spun silk and 15 percent of spandex and preparation method - Google Patents

French rib fabric containing 50 percent of wool, 35 percent of spun silk and 15 percent of spandex and preparation method Download PDF

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Publication number
CN104389095A
CN104389095A CN201410547173.5A CN201410547173A CN104389095A CN 104389095 A CN104389095 A CN 104389095A CN 201410547173 A CN201410547173 A CN 201410547173A CN 104389095 A CN104389095 A CN 104389095A
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China
Prior art keywords
percent
wool
fabric
spun silk
cropping
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CN201410547173.5A
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Chinese (zh)
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CN104389095B (en
Inventor
朱炫钊
朱森波
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JIAXING KINGKAIYUE KNITTING Co Ltd
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JIAXING KINGKAIYUE KNITTING Co Ltd
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C27/00—Compound processes or apparatus, for finishing or dressing textile fabrics, not otherwise provided for
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04—Silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/08—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamino acids or polypeptides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel

Abstract

The invention relates to a preparation method of a fabric, in particular to a preparation method of a French rib fabric containing 50 percent of wool, 35 percent of spun silk and 15 percent of spandex. The method comprises the steps of preparing raw materials, weaving, scutching, setting with clean water and drying, grabbing, shearing, softening with air, coating resin, gloss-ironing, setting for a second time, preshrinking with a rubber blanket and preshrinking through steaming. The prepared French rib fabric simultaneously has features of wool, spun silk and spandex, and has the advantages of wearing softness, smoothness and brightness, fine and smooth hand feeling, fineness, good softness and heat preservation, natural and gentle gloss, high toughness, high flexibility and high elastic recovery rate.

Description

50% wool 35% spun silk 15% spandex thread France's rib fabric and preparation method
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of preparation method of fabric, particularly relate to a kind of preparation method of French rib fabric.
Background technology
It is high that spun silk has number, and gloss profit is beautiful, and feel is soft, is suitable for manufacturing light and soft fine fabrics.
Wool has high-hydroscopicity: wool is extraordinary hydrophilic fibre, and dress as snug as a bug in a rug.Warmth retention property: because of wool tool natural crimp, can be formed between many immobilising air zone as barrier.Durability: wool has extraordinary draftability and elastic recovery, and there is special hair scale structure and fabulous bendability, therefore it also has good appearance retention.
Cashmere has very thin, soft warming, and natural in color is soft, pliable and tough, flexible.
Spandex thread has good elasticity and elastic recovery rate, has that fiber number is thin, intensity is high, proportion is little, dyeability and more excellent an etc. feature of fastness.
Summary of the invention
The object of this invention is to provide a kind of preparation method of 50% wool 35% spun silk 15% spandex thread France rib fabric, adopt French rib fabric prepared by the method, possesses the characteristic of wool, spun silk and spandex thread simultaneously, have dress soft, bright and clean gorgeous, feel is fine and smooth, very thin, soft warming, natural in color is soft, pliable and tough, flexible and elastic recovery rate.
In order to realize above-mentioned object, present invention employs following technical scheme:
The preparation method of 50% wool 35% spun silk 15% spandex thread France rib fabric, the method comprises the following steps:
1) raw material prepares: 50N/2 wool 100/ spun silk 50 dyed yarn, 120N/20 spun silk, 30D spandex thread;
2) weave: at 30 cun of 24G two-sided jacquards, evenly inweave every road with S twist yarn and Z twist yarn by 72 tunnels;
3) open-width; Adopt horizontal scutcher, expander linear velocity <50m/min;
4) clear water shaping and drying;
5) ball woll, cropping; The diameter of ball woll roller adopts 170 ~ 200 millimeters, rotating speed 230 ~ 260 revs/min, linear velocity 140 ~ 160 ms/min, walks cloth speed 5 ~ 7m/min, and ball woll roller is 20:1 ~ 30:1 with the ratio walking cloth speed, clearer diameter 1 ~ 2 millimeter, rotating speed 280 ~ 310 revs/min, clearer and ball woll roller space, and draw point inserts 30/1000 inch, hair clipper speed 850 ~ 900 revs/min, cropping height 9 ~ 12 millimeters;
6) air is soft; With 30 ~ 50m/min working machines, when current cloth end arrives machine front, shut down and cloth end before and after fabric is stitched into ring-type; Start the machine, accelerate to 330 ~ 360m/min, treatment temperature 100 DEG C, processing time 25 ~ 40min, cold wind is cooled to 40 DEG C, shuts down after 8 ~ 15min, and open-width goes out cloth;
7) upper resin: by weight percentage, the aqueous solution of 1 ~ 2% enhancing resin PM-150, infusion process uses starching amount to be 0.5 ~ 3%;
8) hot light technique: 45 % formic acid-15 % ethanol scald, cropping; 15 % formic acid-15 % ethanol scald, cropping; 10% formic acid-15 % ethanol-25 % formaldehyde scalds, and combs, cuts; 50 % formaldehyde-2 0% ethanol scald, cropping, dyeing, and 20% ethanol scalds finished product; 9) secondary sizing: secondary sizing adds the fluffy softener of 40 ~ 80g/L, ice-cold finishing agent 58 ~ 65g/L, smooth silicone oil 140 ~ 160g/L, temperature 140 ~ 160 DEG C, overfeeding 25m/min;
10) rubber blanket preshrunk: rubber blanket temperature should control at 60 ~ 70 DEG C, and the speed of a motor vehicle is at 30 ~ 35m/min;
11) steam-shrinkage: mechanical speed, 20-30m/min, saturated vapor 3-3.5Bar, compressed air 5Bar, to horizontal, longitudinal washing shrinkage of fabric, patterns of fabric, effective gate width do processing adjustment.
Another object of the present invention is to provide the French rib fabric adopting above-mentioned method to prepare.
The present invention is owing to have employed above-mentioned technical scheme, and the French rib fabric of preparation, possesses the characteristic of wool, spun silk and spandex thread simultaneously, have dress soft, bright and clean gorgeous, feel is fine and smooth, very thin, soft warming, natural in color is soft, pliable and tough, flexible and elastic recovery rate.
Detailed description of the invention
1. the preparation method of 50% wool 35% spun silk 15% spandex thread France rib fabric, is characterized in that the method comprises the following steps:
1) raw material prepares: 50N/2 wool 100/ spun silk 50 dyed yarn, 120N/20 spun silk, 30D spandex thread;
2) weave: at 30 cun of 24G two-sided jacquards, evenly inweave every road with S twist yarn and Z twist yarn by 72 tunnels;
3) open-width; Adopt horizontal scutcher, expander linear velocity <50m/min;
4) clear water shaping and drying;
5) ball woll, cropping; The diameter of ball woll roller adopts 180 millimeters, rotating speed 250 revs/min, linear velocity 150 ms/min, walks cloth speed 6m/min, and ball woll roller is 20:1 ~ 30:1 with the ratio walking cloth speed, clearer diameter 1.5 millimeters, rotating speed 295 revs/min, clearer and ball woll roller space, and draw point inserts 30/1000 inch, hair clipper speed 880 revs/min, cropping height 11 millimeters;
6) air is soft; With 40m/min working machines, when current cloth end arrives machine front, shut down and cloth end before and after fabric is stitched into ring-type; Start the machine, accelerate to 345m/min, treatment temperature 100 DEG C, processing time 30min, cold wind is cooled to 40 DEG C, shuts down after 12min, and open-width goes out cloth;
7) upper resin: by weight percentage, the aqueous solution of 2% enhancing resin PM-150, infusion process uses starching amount to be 2%;
8) hot light technique: 45 % formic acid-15 % ethanol scald, cropping; 15 % formic acid-15 % ethanol scald, cropping; 10% formic acid-15 % ethanol-25 % formaldehyde scalds, and combs, cuts; 50 % formaldehyde-2 0% ethanol scald, cropping, dyeing, and 20% ethanol scalds finished product; 9) secondary sizing: secondary sizing adds the fluffy softener of 60g/L, ice-cold finishing agent 60g/L, smooth silicone oil 150g/L, temperature 150 DEG C, overfeeding 25m/min;
10) rubber blanket preshrunk: rubber blanket temperature should control at 65 DEG C, and the speed of a motor vehicle is at 33m/min;
11) steam-shrinkage: mechanical speed, 25m/min, saturated vapor 3.3Bar, compressed air 5Bar, to horizontal, longitudinal washing shrinkage of fabric, patterns of fabric, effective gate width do processing adjustment.
French rib fabric project after testing prepared by above-mentioned method is as shown in the table.Examination criteria GB/T 22849-2009, GB18401-20 03 " B " class.

Claims (2)

  1. The preparation method of 1.50% wool 35% spun silk 15% spandex thread France rib fabric, is characterized in that the method comprises the following steps:
    1) raw material prepares: 50N/2 wool 100/ spun silk 50 dyed yarn, 120N/20 spun silk, 30D spandex thread;
    2) weave: at 30 cun of 24G two-sided jacquards, evenly inweave every road with S twist yarn and Z twist yarn by 72 tunnels;
    3) open-width; Adopt horizontal scutcher, expander linear velocity <50m/min;
    4) clear water shaping and drying;
    5) ball woll, cropping; The diameter of ball woll roller adopts 170 ~ 200 millimeters, rotating speed 230 ~ 260 revs/min, linear velocity 140 ~ 160 ms/min, walks cloth speed 5 ~ 7m/min, and ball woll roller is 20:1 ~ 30:1 with the ratio walking cloth speed, clearer diameter 1 ~ 2 millimeter, rotating speed 280 ~ 310 revs/min, clearer and ball woll roller space, and draw point inserts 30/1000 inch, hair clipper speed 850 ~ 900 revs/min, cropping height 9 ~ 12 millimeters;
    6) air is soft; With 30 ~ 50m/min working machines, when current cloth end arrives machine front, shut down and cloth end before and after fabric is stitched into ring-type; Start the machine, accelerate to 330 ~ 360m/min, treatment temperature 100 DEG C, processing time 25 ~ 40min, cold wind is cooled to 40 DEG C, shuts down after 8 ~ 15min, and open-width goes out cloth;
    7) upper resin: by weight percentage, the aqueous solution of 1 ~ 2% enhancing resin PM-150, infusion process uses starching amount to be 0.5 ~ 3%;
    8) hot light technique: 45 % formic acid-15 % ethanol scald, cropping; 15 % formic acid-15 % ethanol scald, cropping; 10% formic acid-15 % ethanol-25 % formaldehyde scalds, and combs, cuts; 50 % formaldehyde-2 0% ethanol scald, cropping, dyeing, and 20% ethanol scalds finished product;
    9) secondary sizing: secondary sizing adds the fluffy softener of 40 ~ 80g/L, ice-cold finishing agent 58 ~ 65g/L, smooth silicone oil 140 ~ 160g/L, temperature 140 ~ 160 DEG C, overfeeding 25m/min;
    10) rubber blanket preshrunk: rubber blanket temperature should control at 60 ~ 70 DEG C, and the speed of a motor vehicle is at 30 ~ 35m/min;
    11) steam-shrinkage: mechanical speed, 20-30m/min, saturated vapor 3-3.5Bar, compressed air 5Bar, to horizontal, longitudinal washing shrinkage of fabric, patterns of fabric, effective gate width do processing adjustment.
  2. 2. the French rib fabric prepared of method according to claim 1.
CN201410547173.5A 2014-10-16 2014-10-16 50% Pilus Caprae seu Ovis 35% spun silk 15% spandex thread France's rib fabric and preparation method Active CN104389095B (en)

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Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN101078149A (en) * 2006-05-26 2007-11-28 江苏丹毛纺织有限公司 High-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread and processing method thereof
CN101078148A (en) * 2006-05-26 2007-11-28 江苏丹毛纺织有限公司 High-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus material and processing method thereof
CN101270528A (en) * 2008-04-21 2008-09-24 宁波雅戈尔毛纺织染整有限公司 Method for producing pure wool crease-shedding facing material
CN102061549A (en) * 2010-11-23 2011-05-18 张家港市金陵纺织有限公司 Semi-worsted ultra-thin double-faced overcoating wool fabric
US20120255643A1 (en) * 2011-04-08 2012-10-11 Hongwei Duan Fabrics having double layers of terry or pile
CN102995263A (en) * 2011-09-13 2013-03-27 谱拉歌世服饰有限公司 Wool and true silk blended knitted fabric

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN101078149A (en) * 2006-05-26 2007-11-28 江苏丹毛纺织有限公司 High-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus single thread and processing method thereof
CN101078148A (en) * 2006-05-26 2007-11-28 江苏丹毛纺织有限公司 High-count single-warp single-abb worsted plus material and processing method thereof
CN101270528A (en) * 2008-04-21 2008-09-24 宁波雅戈尔毛纺织染整有限公司 Method for producing pure wool crease-shedding facing material
CN102061549A (en) * 2010-11-23 2011-05-18 张家港市金陵纺织有限公司 Semi-worsted ultra-thin double-faced overcoating wool fabric
US20120255643A1 (en) * 2011-04-08 2012-10-11 Hongwei Duan Fabrics having double layers of terry or pile
CN102995263A (en) * 2011-09-13 2013-03-27 谱拉歌世服饰有限公司 Wool and true silk blended knitted fabric

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