CN104389078A - 精粗纺弹力裤料 - Google Patents

精粗纺弹力裤料 Download PDF

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Publication number
CN104389078A
CN104389078A CN201410808253.1A CN201410808253A CN104389078A CN 104389078 A CN104389078 A CN 104389078A CN 201410808253 A CN201410808253 A CN 201410808253A CN 104389078 A CN104389078 A CN 104389078A
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yarn
worsted
trousering
slubbing
woolen
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杨毅方
顾士清
杨丽萍
曹玲娟
余泉兴
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Jiangsu Nijiaxiang Group Worsted Textile Co Ltd
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Jiangsu Nijiaxiang Group Worsted Textile Co Ltd
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Priority to CN201410808253.1A priority Critical patent/CN104389078A/zh
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D7/00—Woven fabrics designed to be resilient, i.e. to recover from compressive stress
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/08—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamino acids or polypeptides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

本发明公开了一种精粗纺弹力裤料，由经纱和纬纱交织而成，其特征在于，所述经纱为精纺毛涤纱，所述纬纱采用精纺弹力纱与粗纺纱间隔排列打纬而成；该精粗纺弹力裤料中，包含成分及重量百分比为：66支澳毛58％、2.2D聚酯纤维41％、莱卡1％。本发明的经纱采用精纺毛涤纱、纬纱采用精纺弹力纱与粗纺纱间隔排列打纬，将精纺和粗纺完美结合，使得制品具有优良的服用性能，既有粗纺毛呢的丰盈绒面、手感柔糯效果，又有精纺呢绒的轻薄、悬垂、飘逸特点，突破了精纺、粗纺呢绒的传统风格，且降低了成本，因此，本发明的精粗纺弹力裤料既能在价格上与精纺产品相竞争，又比传统粗纺产品的手感活络度更胜一筹，符合当今社会的消费理念，具有良好的社会效益。

Description

精粗纺弹力裤料
技术领域
本发明涉及一种面料，尤其涉及一种精粗纺弹力裤料。
背景技术
近年来，随着半精纺的崛起，精纺面料用于裤料的比例急剧下降，原因是人们对裤料时尚舒适、休闲易护理的要求越来越高，企业面对这样的形势，不得不重新审视定义新的产品来满足这样的市场需求。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种具有粗纺的外观，精纺的柔软手感、细洁风格，既能在价格上与精纺产品相竞争，又比传统粗纺产品的手感活络度更胜一筹的精粗纺弹力裤料。
为达到上述目的，本发明的技术方案如下：
一种精粗纺弹力裤料，由经纱和纬纱交织而成，所述经纱为精纺毛涤纱，所述纬纱采用精纺弹力纱与粗纺纱间隔排列打纬而成；该精粗纺弹力裤料中，包含成分及重量百分比为：66支澳毛58％、2.2D聚酯纤维41％、莱卡1％。作为优选，所述精纺毛涤纱是先由66支澳毛60wt％和2.2D聚酯纤维40wt％经条染复精梳制成条，再经纺纱制精纺毛涤纱。
作为优选，所述精纺弹力纱是先由66S澳毛60wt％，2.2D聚酯纤维40wt％经条染复精梳制成条，再与30D莱卡经赛络纺制成毛涤混纺莱卡纱即精纺弹力纱，其中66支澳毛的重量比为57％，2.2D聚酯纤维的重量比为37.2％，莱卡的重量比为5.8％。
作为优选，所述粗纺纱是由66S澳毛60wt％，2.2D聚酯纤维40wt％经条染复精梳制成条，上粗纺纺纱设备，经纺纱制成粗纺纱。
作为优选，所述66支澳毛的平均细度为21.5μm，细度离散为21.5％，平均长度为89.5mm，长度离散35.2％。
作为优选，所述2.2D聚酯纤维的平均长度为88mm。
作为优选，所述经纱为86支的合股纱，所述精纺弹力纱由30支的单股纱与30D莱卡合股而成，所述粗纺纱为14支的单股纱。
精粗结合的面料，纱线的质量决定了最终面料的手感。在纺纱过程中，纱支粗细和原料的选择要合理。纱支过粗会使织物过于稀松，成品手感烂而无身骨，而且，在后整理时还容易造成纱线的移位；纱支过细会造成织物因充实率偏高而显得手感过于板实，手感缺乏弹性和丰厚感，而且后道起毛也很困难。同时也使纺纱成本和织造成本相应提高。因此，纺纱工艺的制定和纱线质量是面料研发过程中至关重要的一环。本发明的发明人经过多次试验选择了如上原料和支数，将精纺和粗纺完美结合，获得了粗纺的外观和精纺的柔软手感、细洁风格，且降低了成本，最终达到了粗纺蓬松的效果，弹性与柔软性相统一，形成了轻量而温暖的休闲风格。
本发明与现有技术相比的有益效果是：
本发明的经纱采用精纺毛涤纱、纬纱采用精纺弹力纱与粗纺纱间隔排列打纬，将精纺和粗纺完美结合，从而获得粗纺的外观，精纺的柔软手感、细洁风格，使得制品具有优良的服用性能，同时又具备了粗纺与精纺双重优点，既有粗纺毛呢的丰盈绒面、手感柔糯效果，又有精纺呢绒的轻薄、悬垂、飘逸特点，突破了精纺、粗纺呢绒的传统风格，另外也既可以减轻粗纺面料的重量而不影响面料的厚实度，又可改变其正装的外观，且降低了成本，最终达到了粗纺蓬松的效果，弹性与柔软性相统一，形成了轻量而温暖的休闲风格。因此，本发明的精粗纺弹力裤料既能在价格上与精纺产品相竞争，又比传统粗纺产品的手感活络度更胜一筹，符合当今社会的消费理念，具有良好的社会效益。
附图说明
图1为本发明的精粗纺弹力裤料的结构示意图。
其中1为经纱；2为纬纱；3为精纺弹力纱；4为粗纺纱。
具体实施方式
实施例1
一种精粗纺弹力裤料，由经纱和纬纱交织而成，所述经纱为精纺毛涤纱，所述纬纱采用精纺弹力纱与粗纺纱间隔排列打纬而成。
所述精纺毛涤纱是先由66支澳毛60wt％和2.2D聚酯纤维40wt％经条染复精梳制成条，再经纺纱制精纺毛涤纱。
所述精纺弹力纱是先由66S澳毛60wt％，2.2D聚酯纤维40wt％经条染复精梳制成条，再与30D莱卡经赛络纺制成毛涤混纺莱卡纱即精纺弹力纱，其中66支澳毛的重量比为57％，2.2D聚酯纤维的重量比为37.2％，莱卡的重量比为5.8％。
所述粗纺纱是由66S澳毛60wt％，2.2D聚酯纤维40wt％经条染复精梳制成条，上粗纺纺纱设备，经纺纱制成粗纺纱。
所述66支澳毛的平均细度为21.5μm，细度离散为21.5％，平均长度为89.5mm，长度离散35.2％。
所述2.2D聚酯纤维的平均长度为88mm。
所述经纱：单纱88支/1，捻度850捻/米，捻向Z；合股支数86支/2，合股捻度1100捻/米,捻向S。
所述精纺弹力纱：单纱30支/1+30D莱卡，合股支数28支/1，合股捻度700捻/米，捻向S。
所述粗纺纱：单纱支数14支/1，捻度470捻/米，捻向Z。
该成品中包含成分及重量百分比为：66支澳毛58％、2.2D聚酯纤维41％、莱卡1％；经纱密度：380根/10厘米；纬纱密度：225根/10厘米；幅宽：156厘米；米重：370克/米。
以上所述，仅为本发明的具体实施方式，但本发明的保护范围并不局限于此，任何不经过创造性劳动想到的变化或替换，都应涵盖在本发明的保护范围之内。因此，本发明的保护范围应该以权利要求书所限定的保护范围为准。

Claims (7)

1.一种精粗纺弹力裤料，由经纱和纬纱交织而成，其特征在于，所述经纱为精纺毛涤纱，所述纬纱采用精纺弹力纱与粗纺纱间隔排列打纬而成；该精粗纺弹力裤料中，包含成分及重量百分比为：66支澳毛58％、2.2D聚酯纤维41％、莱卡1％。
2.根据权利要求1所述的精粗纺弹力裤料，其特征在于，所述精纺毛涤纱是先由66支澳毛60wt％和2.2D聚酯纤维40wt％经条染复精梳制成条，再经纺纱制精纺毛涤纱。
3.根据权利要求1所述的精粗纺弹力裤料，其特征在于，所述精纺弹力纱是先由66S澳毛60wt％，2.2D聚酯纤维40wt％经条染复精梳制成条，再与30D莱卡经赛络纺制成毛涤混纺莱卡纱即精纺弹力纱，其中66支澳毛的重量比为57％，2.2D聚酯纤维的重量比为37.2％，莱卡的重量比为5.8％。
4.根据权利要求1所述的精粗纺弹力裤料，其特征在于，所述粗纺纱是由66S澳毛60wt％，2.2D聚酯纤维40wt％经条染复精梳制成条，上粗纺纺纱设备，经纺纱制成粗纺纱。
5.根据权利要求1所述的精粗纺弹力裤料，其特征在于，所述66支澳毛的平均细度为21.5μm，细度离散为21.5％，平均长度为89.5mm，长度离散35.2％。
6.根据权利要求1所述的精粗纺弹力裤料，其特征在于，所述2.2D聚酯纤维的平均长度为88mm。
7.根据权利要求1所述的精粗纺弹力裤料，其特征在于，所述经纱为86支的合股纱，所述精纺弹力纱由30支的单股纱与30D莱卡合股而成，所述粗纺纱为14支的单股纱。
CN201410808253.1A 2014-12-22 2014-12-22 精粗纺弹力裤料 Pending CN104389078A (zh)

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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105200593A (zh) * 2015-08-25 2015-12-30 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 精粗纺弹力裤料面料的制备工艺
CN107675332A (zh) * 2017-11-30 2018-02-09 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 一种梭织存气轻暖织物的生产方法
CN108677318A (zh) * 2018-07-21 2018-10-19 嘉善兴茂毛纺织染整有限公司 一种抗褶皱双面呢面料生产工艺
WO2019210451A1 (zh) * 2018-05-01 2019-11-07 Xu Dongqing 一种高性能布料

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN105200593A (zh) * 2015-08-25 2015-12-30 江苏倪家巷集团精毛纺织有限公司 精粗纺弹力裤料面料的制备工艺
CN107675332A (zh) * 2017-11-30 2018-02-09 江苏丹毛纺织股份有限公司 一种梭织存气轻暖织物的生产方法
WO2019210451A1 (zh) * 2018-05-01 2019-11-07 Xu Dongqing 一种高性能布料
CN108677318A (zh) * 2018-07-21 2018-10-19 嘉善兴茂毛纺织染整有限公司 一种抗褶皱双面呢面料生产工艺

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Application publication date: 20150304