CN104256937B - A kind of preparation method of only colored picture-weaving in silk cheongsam - Google Patents
A kind of preparation method of only colored picture-weaving in silk cheongsam Download PDFInfo
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- CN104256937B CN104256937B CN201410536834.4A CN201410536834A CN104256937B CN 104256937 B CN104256937 B CN 104256937B CN 201410536834 A CN201410536834 A CN 201410536834A CN 104256937 B CN104256937 B CN 104256937B
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D1/00—Garments
- A41D1/14—Skirts
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H42/00—Multi-step production lines for making clothes
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D2500/00—Materials for garments
- A41D2500/20—Woven
Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of preparation method of only colored picture-weaving in silk cheongsam, comprise the following steps: (one) carries out overall Position Design to cheongsam style, version type, solely floral pattern three; (2) to being positioned in cheongsam provincial highway and only floral pattern of periphery carries out special deformation process; (3) distortion and indeformable only floral pattern are integrated forms the fabric specification that cheongsam each several part accurately locates the only flower picture-weaving in silk cheongsam of flower pattern (four), organize and the design and fabrication of card; (5) loom prepares; (6) looming weaving; (7) cutting with make.Present invention, avoiding and cause disconnected flower phenomenon because clothing popularity after tailor's provincial highway cannot effectively splice.Efficiently solve tradition solely flower clothes first fabric processed again typesetting when the clothing popularity that causes because opening the reasons such as provincial highway and the cutting problem that cannot be connected.
Description
Technical field:
The invention belongs to textile garment technical field, be specifically related to a kind of preparation method of only colored picture-weaving in silk cheongsam.
Background technology:
Clothing popularity is the 4th design considerations continued outside style, color, material in dress designing.Clothing popularity has great decoration function to clothes, and especially cheongsam depends on pattern line kind to strengthen its artistry and fashion, also becomes a kind of particular/special requirement that people pursue dress ornament U.S..It is made to become important component part in clothes.
The pattern of clothes comprises jacquard weave, stamp and embroidery.Traditional embroidery solely spends clothes (comprising hand embroidering and machine embroidery) to be embroidered before clothing slopwork, and carries out supplementing embroidery after ready-made clothes, because of gap that provincial highway reserves during to make up fabric cutting.Need like this to carry out twice processing.And due to after ready-made clothes, the impact economized because of cutting distortion by chest province He Yao cannot be smooth, being difficult to is stretched tight very embroiders again.So we commercially see that many embroidered silk garments cause fabric pattern to misplace because of provincial highway cutting, and form ugly mistake flower.And picture-weaving in silk cheongsam mostly is the pattern fabric on full ground, and due to the difference of each subscriber individual figure, it is not identical therefore to open the size of provincial highway, position yet, therefore cannot produce changeless flower pattern to meet all consumers.Given this, need to improve the preparation method of existing only colored garment material, the only colored clothes that after producing ready-made clothes, floral designs can effectively be connected.
Summary of the invention:
The object of the invention is to for deficiency of the prior art, a kind of method using brocade craft to make solely flower picture-weaving in silk clothes is provided, cooperatively interact according to designed set style and only floral pattern and carry out cutting and make, enable that the pattern on clothes is complete to be spliced, mutually continuously, reach and once sew up ready-made clothes.
For solving the problems of the technologies described above, the technical solution used in the present invention is: a kind of preparation method of only colored picture-weaving in silk cheongsam, it is characterized in that: according to designed ready-made clothes style and version type, designed pattern is first carried out basic fixed position at each position of cheongsam, again by the pattern part being positioned at provincial highway periphery and cover on provincial highway, pattern deformation process is carried out, to ensure that the pattern on cheongsam can not produce disconnected flower phenomenon because of opening provincial highway by computer.Provincial highway in clothes refers to balance between dress material and body surface is folding and is stitched process, its objective is and can show human body figure preferably.Special set version type pattern is formed like this after deformation process, the only colored picture-weaving in silk design of plus material system of correspondence carries out typesetting, the final pattern that after typesetting, web surface is formed is as the grain pattern of fabric, then and grain pattern wide according to web after typesetting knits fabric processed, carry out cutting under fabric after machine and make, comprise the following steps:
(1), overall Position Design is carried out to cheongsam style, version type, solely floral pattern three;
(2), special deformation process is carried out to the only floral pattern being positioned at cheongsam provincial highway and periphery;
(3) the precise positioning flower pattern of being out of shape and forming each position of cheongsam with indeformable pattern, is integrated;
(4) design and fabrication of the fabric specification of picture-weaving in silk cheongsam, tissue and card, is solely spent;
(5), loom prepares and looming weaving and cutting and make.
Only floral pattern in the Design modelling of only star-spangled banner robe described in the present invention, design and cheongsam edition type design step on cheongsam carries out foundation location at each desired area of clothes respectively.
Further, describedly will be positioned at provincial highway periphery and the pattern part covered on provincial highway carries out pattern deformation process, waist economizes process can directly use following methods, and chest is economized and be can be considered that half waist province figure processes.Its method step comprises:
(A), the formal character pattern revised law of view case.Circular pattern revised law (see figure mono-) is mainly applicable to the type ramage process of full ground; Square pattern revised law (see figure bis-) is mainly applicable to the process of bar lattice floral designs; Other also have the pattern such as rhombus, ellipse revised law.
(B) method that, its circular pattern revised law (see figure mono-) process waist is economized is: with provincial highway central point A for the center of circle, with 1/2 provincial highway long (A point is to B point) for radius describes a circle, to guarantee to carry out effective deformation to the pattern in circle, pattern outside circle is indeformable, and connecting place inside and outside circle is linked up smoothly.The pattern covered in provincial highway B A ' D E tetra-points is shifted out, need to carry out difference cutting process on computers, for 1/4 circle, moved to equably on the position of A ' B C in proportion by deformation process by pattern on ABC position, the pattern avoided on A B A ' is lost because of provincial highway tailor.In like manner, the pattern in all the other 3/4 circles is according to said method processed.By through deformation process with without the need to distortion pattern be effectively connected the special cheongsam pattern being integrated into the final shaping.Wherein: B to D is the length that waist is economized, and A to A ' is 1/2 provincial highway width, and E is provincial highway left end point, and A ' is provincial highway right endpoint, ABC is 1/4 circle;
(C), square pattern revised law (see figure bis-) process waist province method is: with provincial highway central point A for square center of a lattice, with the length that the length B of provincial highway point is grid four limit to F point, to guarantee to carry out effective deformation to the pattern in grid, pattern outside grid is indeformable, and pattern inside and outside grid is connected smooth-going linking; The pattern covered in provincial highway BA ' FE is shifted out, adopts computer to carry out difference cutting process.Square for 1/4, moved to equably on the position of A ' BCD in proportion by deformation process by the pattern on ABCD position, the pattern avoided on ABA ' is lost because of provincial highway tailor.In like manner, by all the other 3/4 square on pattern according to said method process.By through deformation process with without the need to distortion pattern be effectively connected the special cheongsam pattern being integrated into the final shaping.Wherein: A to A ' be 1/2 provincial highway width, E is provincial highway left end point, and A ' is provincial highway right endpoint, and ABCD is 1/4 square;
Further, the fabric specification of described only colored picture-weaving in silk cheongsam, tissue and the design and fabrication step of card comprise:
(A) designed special cheongsam pattern is carried out typesetting design in set Fabric Design system;
(B) fabric warp, parallel raw material variety, specification, quantity, is determined;
(C), setup parameter, provide the pixel value of full image, and pixel value is corresponding with the numerical value of warp, parallel;
(D), carry out the merger of color according to figure and choose and the design ap-plication of picture-weaving in silk institutional framework;
(E), Card Design and making is carried out.
Further, the concrete steps of described step e are:
(A), computer aided design system carries out rational deployment by unified in discharge design for each for designed clothes position design, and the pattern between each position of clothes, institutional framework, color matching, quality are effectively connected;
(B), use figurative jacquard computer aided design system, handled image carried out color separation by the silk thread colour system selected by graticule and inputs tissue respectively, target pattern being become and can supply woven target card.
Further, describedly the merger of color is carried out according to figure and selecting step is specially:
(A), by the image after adjustment need to carry out color separation according to design, first the master color as ground portion is branched away;
(B), carry out merger and the color separation of color by the image of each flowering according to pattern original color tendency, be generally several colors by image merger, obtain color separation original text;
(C), by a point computer aided design system for colored pattern input textile speciality, according to color and imitative plain embroidery fabric structure relation, successively card making is carried out to above-mentioned color separation, the assorted point card of preparation;
(D), by a set point card order carry out Series Code combination with corresponding barry dyeing line picking order, form target card.
In the present invention, described color separation step carries out color separation by the silk thread colour system selected by parallel, forms color separation original text, inputs fabric tissue successively respectively and carries out a point card making, according to spacing color mixed principle, after upper machine, form complete thousands of colour developing tissue through the interleaving combinations of too much colour system graticule.
Further, described loom preparation process is:
(A), using in design make warp as the master color silk thread in ground portion, parallel made by the silk thread of all the other colors, carries out warping pirn winding process;
(B), according to the specification adjustment knitting technology parameter solely spending picture-weaving in silk cheongsam, described picture-weaving in silk cheongsam specification refers to relative dimensions, density, the silk thread kind of object fabric.
In the present invention, described looming weaving step is: be configured on loom by made target card, then starts loom and can weave solely flower picture-weaving in silk cheongsam fabric, and this fabric comprises the fabric and provincial highway part that required cut-parts fabric and needs crop.
Further, described cutting with make step and be: (A), according to designing requirement, carries out cutting successively by solely spending the anter on picture-weaving in silk cheongsam fabric, rear panel, sleeve chip part; (B) docked respectively by the fabric after cutting, wherein in provincial highway and cut-parts, the floral designs on both sides carry out splice flower and sewing up, through lock seaming accordingly, snap close, overseam, liner step, complete the making of only colored picture-weaving in silk cheongsam.
Designed clothing popularity flower pattern, after the style of clothes, pattern and type design complete substantially, is carried out deformation process by CAD by the present invention, avoids and causing disconnected flower phenomenon because clothing popularity after tailor's provincial highway cannot effectively splice.Efficiently solve tradition solely flower clothes first fabric processed again typesetting when the clothing popularity that causes because opening the reasons such as provincial highway and the cutting problem that cannot be connected, under can also realizing modern information technology environment, carry out personalized clothing popularity design for different characteristics of human body and customize with ready-made clothes.Technical solution of the present invention is equally applicable to stamp, machine embroidery technique makes cheongsam and has the clothes of provincial highway to process.
Accompanying drawing illustrates:
Fig. 1 is circular pattern modification method schematic diagram.
Fig. 2 is square pattern modification method schematic diagram.
Detailed description of the invention:
Below in conjunction with the drawings and specific embodiments, technical scheme of the present invention is elaborated.
Embodiment 1: a kind of preparation method of only colored picture-weaving in silk cheongsam, the steps include:
(1), to solely spending the style of picture-weaving in silk cheongsam, pattern and the triplicity of version type to carry out overall Position Design;
(2), by two Yao Sheng and four the chests province's peripheries and the pattern part covered on provincial highway that are positioned at cheongsam anter carry out pattern deformation process by computer, main contents comprise:
A, select suitable pattern correction method (circular pattern revised law, square pattern revised law etc.) according to pattern;
B, the pattern in the provincial highway chosen is carried out being out of shape and be shifted by corresponding method together with periphery pattern, make whole patterns after removing provincial highway by complete reservation;
(3), integrate distortion and indeformable pattern, the precise positioning flower pattern at the composition each position of cheongsam, and carried out fabric typesetting design;
(4), to the design and manufaction solely spending picture-weaving in silk cheongsam fabric to carry out specification, institutional framework and card, comprising:
A, determine fabric warp, parallel raw material variety, specification, quantity;
B, setup parameter, provide full image (comprising colored portion and ground portion, main flower and auxiliary flower etc.) pixel value, and pixel value is corresponding with the numerical value of warp, parallel;
C, carry out the merger of color according to figure and choose, and the design ap-plication of imitative plain embroidery institutional framework, specifically comprise:
(1) image after adjustment is needed to carry out color separation according to design, first the master color as ground portion is branched away;
(2) image of each flowering is carried out merger and the color separation of color according to pattern original color tendency, be generally several colors by image merger, obtain color separation original text;
(3) by a point computer aided design system for colored pattern input specialty, according to color and imitative plain embroidery fabric structure relation, successively card making is carried out to above-mentioned color separation, the assorted point card of preparation;
(4) carry out Series Code combination by a set point card order with corresponding barry dyeing line picking order, form target card.
D, carry out Card Design and making.
(5), loom prepares
A, using ground portion master color corresponding in design as warp look, all the other merger several colors out from each flowering image carry out warping, pirn winding process as parallel look;
B, the requirement designed according to fabric specification, adjustment knitting technology parameter, described fabric specification refers to size, density, the silk thread kind of object picture-weaving in silk thing.
(6), looming weaving
Made target card is configured on machine, starts the only colored picture-weaving in silk cheongsam fabric that loom can weave one group of target style.
(7), cutting and making
(A) according to designing requirement, cutting is carried out successively by solely spending the parts such as anter, rear panel, sleeve sheet on picture-weaving in silk fabric;
(B) floral designs fabric after cutting being docked respectively both sides in provincial highway and cut-parts carry out splice flower and sewing up, through process links such as lock seaming, snap close, overseam, liners accordingly, namely complete the ready-made clothes production of only colored picture-weaving in silk cheongsam.
Embodiment 2
Design and produce a imitative plain embroidery real silk and solely spend picture-weaving in silk cheongsam, require from fabric, pattern, Design modelling until ready-made clothes production.Style is oblique flap half sleeve pattern, and quality is full real silk jacquard picture-weaving in silk.Its operating procedure is:
1, by the long 140cm of women's clothing, chest measurement 96cm, the human body of waistline 72cm, hip circumference 96cm carries out the Design modelling of clothes, design kimonos dress edition type design.
2, by above three designs, the only floral pattern (comprising main floral pattern, auxiliary floral pattern, burelage, lace textured pattern) on clothes is carried out basic fixed position respectively on the anter of clothes, rear panel and sleeve sheet.
3, adopt circular pattern revised law, the pattern of two Yao Sheng and four the chests provinces and periphery that are positioned at cheongsam anter is carried out deformation process.Setting waist governor 27cm, wide 3cm, large chest governor 14cm, wide 2.5cm, move to the pattern being positioned at provincial highway outside provincial highway frame respectively, makes whole pattern by complete reservation.
4, integrate distortion and in corresponding only colored picture-weaving in silk design of plus material system, carry out typesetting with the accurate location flower pattern that indeformable pattern forms each position of cheongsam.Typesetting will relate to science and the reasonability of cutting.Arrangement through artificial pattern typesetting, then can input computer aided design system, also directly can carry out typesetting on computers.
5, the computer picture design system of the e-file information input specialty after above typesetting is carried out image procossing.Mainly the quality of image, size, picture effect are adjusted, be adjusted to tone bright and clear, the image of non-variegation.Total image is the image of 24000X40000 pixel.
Design uses warp 24000, is the mulberry silk (ecru) of 2/22.2/24.4dtex, totally 40000, parallel, is the mulberry silk (being respectively red, yellow, green, white, black) of 2/22.2/24.4dtex.
6, the image after adjustment is carried out color separation according to adopted five kinds of parallel colors, above-mentioned image color segmentation is become the color separation original text of five kinds of colors, i.e. red pattern, yellow pattern, green pattern, white pattern and black pattern.
7, by a point computer aided design system (CAD system) for colored pattern input specialty, point card of corresponding assorted parallel is made into.According to color and imitative plain embroidery fabric structure relation, successively card making is carried out to above-mentioned five kinds of color separations, to make each group parallel and warp interweave and to form the polychromatic combination imitating plain embroidery to organize card.
8, by above five groups of cards synthesis target card.Be arranged in order by red, yellow, green, white, black order, set card order carries out Series Code combination with corresponding barry dyeing line picking order is consistent.
9, finally the target card made and relevant parameter are inputted electronic jacquard machine for weaving.
10, on loom, warp and parallel is settled, warp is 24000 ecrus, by every centimetre of 100 spread configurations, parallel uses red, yellow, green, white, black five kinds of silkworm silk threads, picking order should with corresponding point card sequence consensus, and weft density is set as every centimetre of 40 X five groups.
11, start loom, the authentic silk of imitative plain embroidery that just can weave one group of target style solely spends picture-weaving in silk cheongsam fabric.
12, according to designing requirement, the parts such as the anter on picture-weaving in silk fabric, rear panel, sleeve sheet, neck sheet are cut off successively, open provincial highway, to the floral designs connecting provincial highway and cut-parts both sides, then through each procedure links such as lock seaming, snap close, overseam liners, make clothes demonstrate and have the main flower in front, the auxiliary flower of loins, shirt-circuited end decoration line, each several part pattern is in order coherent, and splicing solely spends picture-weaving in silk cheongsam closely.
Claims (7)
1. solely spend a preparation method for picture-weaving in silk cheongsam, it is characterized in that comprising the steps:
(1), to solely spending the style of picture-weaving in silk cheongsam, pattern and the triplicity of version type to carry out overall Position Design;
(2), by two Yao Sheng and four the chests province's peripheries and the pattern part covered on provincial highway that are positioned at cheongsam anter carry out pattern deformation process by computer, described pattern deformation process comprises circular pattern revised law and square pattern revised law;
Wherein, the method that described circular pattern revised law process waist is economized is: with provincial highway central point A for the center of circle, with 1/2 provincial highway length for radius describes a circle, to guarantee to carry out effective deformation to the pattern in circle, pattern outside circle is indeformable, and connecting place inside and outside circle is linked up smoothly; The pattern covered in provincial highway BA ' DE tetra-points is shifted out, need to carry out difference cutting process on computers, when being 1/4 circle, moved to equably on the position of A ' BC in proportion by deformation process by pattern on ABC position, the pattern avoided on A B A ' is lost because of provincial highway tailor; In like manner, the pattern in all the other 3/4 circles is according to said method processed; By through deformation process with without the need to distortion pattern be effectively connected the special cheongsam pattern being integrated into the final shaping; Wherein: B to D is the length that waist is economized, and A to A ' is 1/2 provincial highway width, and E is provincial highway left end point, and A ' is provincial highway right endpoint, ABC is 1/4 circle;
Described square pattern revised law process waist province method is: with provincial highway central point A for square center of a lattice, with the length that the length B of provincial highway point is grid four limit to F point, to guarantee to carry out effective deformation to the pattern in grid, the pattern outside grid is indeformable, and pattern inside and outside grid is connected smooth-going linking; The pattern covered in provincial highway BA ' FE is shifted out, adopts computer to carry out difference cutting process; When be 1/4 square time, moved to equably on the position of A ' BCD in proportion by deformation process by the pattern on ABCD position, the pattern avoided on ABA ' is lost because of provincial highway tailor; In like manner, by all the other 3/4 square on pattern according to said method process; By through deformation process with without the need to distortion pattern be effectively connected the special cheongsam pattern being integrated into the final shaping; Wherein: A to A ' be 1/2 provincial highway width, E is provincial highway left end point, and A ' is provincial highway right endpoint, and ABCD is 1/4 square;
(3), integrate distortion and indeformable pattern, the precise positioning flower pattern at the composition each position of cheongsam, and carried out fabric typesetting design;
(4), to the design and manufaction solely spending picture-weaving in silk cheongsam fabric to carry out specification, institutional framework and card;
(5), loom prepare, looming weaving and cutting and make.
2. the preparation method of only colored picture-weaving in silk cheongsam according to claim 1, is characterized in that the only floral pattern in the Design modelling of described only star-spangled banner robe, design and cheongsam edition type design step on cheongsam carries out foundation location at each desired area of clothes respectively.
3. the preparation method of only colored picture-weaving in silk cheongsam according to claim 1, is characterized in that the design and fabrication step of the fabric specification of described only colored picture-weaving in silk cheongsam, tissue and card comprises:
(A), designed special cheongsam pattern is carried out typesetting design in set Fabric Design system;
(B) fabric warp, parallel raw material variety, specification, quantity, is determined;
(C), setup parameter, provide the pixel value of full image, and pixel value is corresponding with the numerical value of warp, parallel;
(D), carry out the merger of color according to figure and choose and the design ap-plication of picture-weaving in silk institutional framework;
(E), Card Design and making is carried out.
4. the preparation method of only colored picture-weaving in silk cheongsam according to claim 3, is characterized in that the concrete steps of described step e are:
(A), computer aided design system carries out rational deployment by unified in discharge design for each for designed clothes position design, and the pattern between each position of clothes, institutional framework, color matching, quality are effectively connected;
(B), use figurative jacquard computer aided design system, handled image carried out color separation by the silk thread colour system selected by graticule and inputs tissue respectively, target pattern being become and can supply woven target card.
5. the preparation method of only colored picture-weaving in silk cheongsam according to claim 3, is characterized in that describedly carrying out the merger of color according to figure and selecting step is specially:
(A), by the image after adjustment need to carry out color separation according to design, first the master color as ground portion is branched away;
(B), carry out merger and the color separation of color by the image of each flowering according to pattern original color tendency, be generally several colors by image merger, obtain color separation original text;
(C), by a point computer aided design system for colored pattern input textile speciality, according to color and imitative plain embroidery fabric structure relation, successively card making is carried out to above-mentioned color separation, the assorted point card of preparation;
(D), by a set point card order carry out Series Code combination with corresponding barry dyeing line picking order, form target card.
6. the preparation method of only colored picture-weaving in silk cheongsam according to claim 1, is characterized in that described loom preparation process is:
(A), using in design make warp as the master color silk thread in ground portion, parallel made by the silk thread of all the other colors, carries out warping pirn winding process;
(B), according to the specification adjustment knitting technology parameter solely spending picture-weaving in silk cheongsam, described picture-weaving in silk cheongsam specification refers to relative dimensions, density, the silk thread kind of object fabric.
7. the preparation method of only colored picture-weaving in silk cheongsam according to claim 1, it is characterized in that described looming weaving step is: be configured on loom by made target card, then start loom and can weave solely flower picture-weaving in silk cheongsam fabric, this fabric comprises the fabric and provincial highway part that required cut-parts fabric and needs crop; Described cutting with make step and be: (A), according to designing requirement, carries out cutting successively by solely spending the anter on picture-weaving in silk cheongsam fabric, rear panel, sleeve chip part; (B) docked respectively by the fabric after cutting, wherein in provincial highway and cut-parts, the floral designs on both sides carry out splice flower and sewing up, through lock seaming accordingly, snap close, overseam, liner step, complete the making of only colored picture-weaving in silk cheongsam.
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| CN106637693A (en) * | 2016-12-20 | 2017-05-10 | 广西风华服饰有限责任公司 | Fabric sewing method |
| CN107048505A (en) * | 2017-06-12 | 2017-08-18 | 苏州凤霓绣叶文化艺术有限公司 | A kind of cheongsam preparation method simple to operate |
| CN107836765A (en) * | 2017-08-18 | 2018-03-27 | 苏州凤霓绣叶文化艺术有限公司 | The preparation method that a kind of cheongsam flower attractive in appearance is buckled |
| CN113862866A (en) * | 2021-10-27 | 2021-12-31 | 山东魏桥嘉嘉家纺有限公司 | Large-jacquard full-width flower-enclosure home textile suite and preparation method thereof |
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| CN103938371A (en) * | 2014-04-11 | 2014-07-23 | 李加林 | Method for making brocade single-pattern garment imitating plain embroidery |
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| CN1091180C (en) * | 2000-08-29 | 2002-09-18 | 李加林 | Method for weaving colour brocade |
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