Background technology
Mankind's normal skin color is by perhaps overdetermined, as the content of skin pigment material and distribution, and the thickness of skin, content of HbO2 Oxyhemoglobin and reduced hemoglobin etc. in skin heart.Wherein melanocyte is the principal element that determines skin color.When epidermis melanin content increases, skin is blueness or Lycoperdon polymorphum Vitt, and the generation of pigmented spots is also because melanin pigmentation excessively causes.Facial pigmented spots kind is a lot, as chloasma, and freckle, the sequela mottle that black speck and various hormone cause, the reason of its generation has multiple: exopathogenic factor has ultraviolet irradiation, the impact of heavy metal element, the shortage of aminoacid and vitamin, the impact of medicine and scytitis; Endogenous cause of ill has endocrine factor, the disease of Liver and kidney etc. etc., and its prophylactico-therapeutic measures, mainly from check melanin hyperplasia, prevents that melanin granule from forming.Accelerate melanin granule degraded and reduce the aspects such as melanocyte activity and start with.
Current for skin splash, mainly contain:
1, naturopathy, a utilizes laser to destroy pigment granule to shallow colour of skin patient or pigment cell destroys, but curative effect is unstable; B, crystallite changes skin: its principle be with air pump by natural minerals " microcrystal " high speed impact epidermis, make the exfoliation of degradation, in spontaneous recovery mode, create new epidermis.C, Chemical peeling and freezing method etc.;
2, whole body therapeutic, the modes such as oral liquid or vein, effective to corium type/mixed type mottle, vitamins for example, glutathion; Flavonoid, plant polyphenol kind etc., formation and the tyrosinase activity of inhibition melanocyte, remove the modes such as free radical and resist mottle; Or utilize theory of Chinese medical science, and use Chinese medicine (as Semen Persicae, Flos Carthami, Rhizoma Cyperi, Radix Curcumae etc.) to regulate internal organs, Yin Yang balancing, reaches Therapeutic Method;
3, local treatment: discolor element or depigmentation preparation of external is one of effective ways of increasing for the treatment of epidermis class pigment, such as hydroquinone, kojic acid, Azelaic Acid and metallothionein etc.;
4, general treatement, by modes such as sun-proof watch boxes.
Whitening class cosmetics in current China market, nearly all to take restraint of tyrosinase activity as main, and external major company mainly utilizes plant essence to coordinate vitamin preparation, act on face skin, allow the active ingredient basal layer that penetrates to the skin, the existing melanin of reduction decomposition, activating cell, desalination facial film speckle.From outward, smear essence to interior as oral liquid and emerging face mask of traditional Chinese medicine etc., product forms, style, concept constantly updates.But seldom have to consider on effective ingredient osmosis efficiency and product emulsifying process and optimize the effect of carrying out improving product.
Summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of speckle dispelling elite emulsion, the directed infiltration technology based on Skin Cell, realizes the directed infiltration in the different cellular layers of Skin Cell of different activities composition, effect layer by layer, thus reach significant spot-removal function.
The present invention is achieved by the following technical solutions:
A speckle dispelling elite emulsion, its active component comprises:
Component A, is selected from zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, 0.5-8 part;
B component, is selected from hyaluronic acid and fruit acid, 3-15 part;
Component C, is selected from tranamic acid and ferulic acid, 3-15 part;
Component D, is selected from ascorbic acid, 5-25 part;
Component E, is selected from alpha-arbutin and barbaloin, 3-16 part.
Further, the invention provides described a kind of speckle dispelling elite emulsion, by component C, component D and the water in oil microemulsion of component E, the parcel emulsion of the oil-in-water emulsion of component A, B component and coloring agent mixing and emulsifying, made.
A kind of preparation method of described speckle dispelling elite emulsion is: under temperature 30-50 ℃ condition, the water in oil microemulsion of component C, component D and component E is slowly joined in the oil-in-water emulsion of component A, under 1000-3000r/min rotating speed, stir 10-20min; Then be cooled to 20-35 ℃, order adds parcel emulsion and the coloring agent of B component, continues to stir 25-30min, obtains described speckle dispelling elite emulsion.
Preferably, described stirring operation is selected turbine type agitator.
Preferably, described component C, component D and the water in oil microemulsion of component E, the parcel emulsion of the oil-in-water emulsion of component A, B component and the coloring agent percentage in described speckle dispelling elite emulsion gross weight be respectively: 5-30%, 60-85%, 0.5-10% and 0.001-0.1%.
The water in oil microemulsion of described component C, component D and component E adopts micro-emulsion technology to make, and is specially: first emulsifying agent is joined in base oil, the mixing that stirs, forms mixed liquor; Then mixed liquor is joined in the mixture of active component C, active component D and active component E and evenly mix; Then add co-emulsifier and auxiliary antioxidant, being tentatively mixed is placed on emulsifying in high-speed vacuum Homogenized emulsifier and makes described water in oil microemulsion.
Wherein, the emulsion process parameter in described high-speed vacuum Homogenized emulsifier is: under vacuum-0.1~-0.09MPa, temperature 30-50 ℃ condition, 4000-6000r/min stirs 5-10min, and then continues to stir 10-25min with 1500-2500r/min.
In described water in oil microemulsion, water-soluble active ingredient component C, component D and component E are wrapped in skin-friendly oils and fats, so contribute to see through skin lipid barrier, the osmotic absorption of accelerating active component, component C, component D and component E total amount account for the 2-15wt% of described water in oil microemulsion gross weight.
The base oil of preparing described water in oil microemulsion is selected from skin-friendly oils and fats, and as one or more the mixture in squalane, lanoline, olive oil or triglyceride etc., base oil accounts for the 60-80wt% of described water in oil microemulsion gross weight.
The emulsifying agent of preparing described water in oil microemulsion is one or more the mixture in h-tallow resin, sorbitan fatty acid ester S-80, castor oil hydrogenated, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenation olive oil, lipotropy, for emulsifying water-soluble active ingredient, emulsifying agent accounts for the 8-25wt% of described water in oil microemulsion gross weight.
The co-emulsifier of preparing described water in oil microemulsion is one or more the mixture in pentanediol, C12-18 alkyl androstanediol, sodium lactate, n-octyl alcohol, isooctanol, lauryl alcohol, help lend some impetus to water soluble ingredient and spread in oil phase, co-emulsifier accounts for the 5-30wt% of described water in oil microemulsion gross weight.
Described auxiliary antioxidant is selected from lycopene and astaxanthin etc., and for the protection of water-soluble active ingredient, addition is the 0.1-5wt% of microemulsion gross weight.
The particle diameter of the water in oil microemulsion of described component C, component D and component E is 0.01-0.1 μ m.
The preparation method of the oil-in-water emulsion of described component A, be specially: water-phase component and emulsifier for mixing are dissolved after mix homogeneously, be placed in Homogenized emulsifier emulsifying a period of time, then add component A and oil-phase component, continue emulsifying and make described oil-in-water emulsion.
Wherein, described water-phase component and emulsifying agent stirring and dissolving under 70-95 ℃ of condition is evenly mixed, and is then placed in Homogenized emulsifier, under 2500-5000r/min, stirs 5-15min, and then adds component A and oil-phase component; And 2-10min is stirred in continuation under aforementioned rotating speed; Afterwards, adjustment rotating speed is 80-500r/min, and under 75-85 ℃ of condition, constant temperature stirs 20-30min.
In described oil-in-water emulsion, active ingredient components A accounts for the 0.01-0.1wt% of oil-in-water emulsion gross weight.
Described water-phase component is the mixture of water and low-carbon alcohols, and described low-carbon alcohols is selected from butanediol and propylene glycol; Wherein the quality proportioning of water and low-carbon alcohols is 6-9:1-4; Water-phase component accounts for the 60-90wt% of oil-in-water emulsion gross weight.
Described emulsifying agent is one or more the mixture in glyceryl stearate, C12-18 alkyl-glucoside, polysorbate-60, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, polydimethylsiloxane or polysiloxanes-5, and emulsifying agent accounts for the 2-30wt% of oil-in-water emulsion gross weight.
Described oil-phase component is selected from hydrogenated jojoba oil, polyacrylamide and triethanolamine, and oil-phase component accounts for the 5-20wt% of oil-in-water emulsion gross weight.
The parcel emulsion of described B component for to mix B component and assisted water soluble active matter at 30-40 ℃; B component accounts for the 10-50wt% of the parcel emulsion gross weight of described B component.
Preferably, described assisted water soluble active matter is one or more the mixture in nicotiamide, pantothenylol, papain, bromelain, tripeptides-3, Argireline-3 or keratin etc., B component and assisted water soluble active matter are thermal sensitivity composition, need to control temperature and avoid active matter loss of activity; Hyaluronic acid Main Function is to be penetrated into skin top layer, supplements skin cell interstitial, and activating cell metabolism coordinates nicotiamide, and papain etc. promote skin metabolism, the pigment of eliminating and softening skin deposition.
Described coloring agent is selected from CI19140, CI16185, CI16255, CI16035, CI14700, CI45380 and CI15510 etc., the more preferably combination of CI19140 and CI16185, and the two part by weight is 5-8:2-5.
The speckle dispelling elite emulsifying liquid material body making is fine and smooth, uniformity, and foreign, 30min is not stratified in 2000-3000r/min rotation, and pH, between 5.55 ± 1, meets QB/T2286 requirement.
Using method: each once, after thorough cleaning skin, was placed in the centre of the palm by speckle dispelling elite emulsion of the present invention and was evenly applied in face sooner or later every day, patted gently to absorbing completely.
Speckle dispelling elite emulsion of the present invention is applicable to skin of face mottle, and the adult of whitening is wanted in complexion dimness.
A kind of speckle dispelling elite emulsion provided by the invention, than general speckle dispelling product, have and can significantly dispel the effect of facial film mottle, the directed infiltration technology (5X cell-technology) of employing based on Skin Cell, select the active substance for the different cellular layers of skin to carry out composite, coordinate the special emulsifying process of the present invention, realize the directed infiltration in the different cellular layers of Skin Cell of different activities composition, effect layer by layer, thus reach significant spot-removal function; Wherein:
Alpha-arbutin or barbaloin, in the micro-liquid of skin-friendly oils and fats mutually in, can go deep into skin basal layer, comprehensively restraint of tyrosinase is active, the melanin that blocks mottle root forms;
Tranamic acid or ferulic acid, in the micro-liquid of skin-friendly oils and fats mutually in, in skin osmotic absorption process, slowly discharge, orientation is penetrated into dermal layer of the skin, by antagonism Mai Lalin, smashes the quiet melanin group at mottle root;
Ascorbic acid, micromolecule, for the mottle middle part that is present in skin epidermis deep layer, the obviously existing melanin of desalination group;
Hyaluronic acid or fruit acid, by accelerating the metabolism of epidermis skin, take off mottle and the melanin of skin surface, makes the surperficial colour of skin more balanced;
Zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, be attached to horny layer, contributes to isolation and to uvioresistant, the generation again of pre-anti-melanin and mottle.
The speckle dispelling elite emulsion of preparation shows than composite emulsifying system superiority in the past in preparation technology:
1, utilize microemulsified cryogenic technique, active ingredient components C, component D and component E are prepared into water in oil microemulsion, water-soluble active ingredient is rolled into interior phase with skin-friendly oils and fats, help transdermal lipid cellular layer to enter skin deep layer, slowly discharge, prevent air oxidation.
2, hyaluronic acid or fruit acid, Main Function, in skin top layer, adopts low-temperature mixed technique, protects it to avoid high temperature and destroys, and keeps its activity.
3, this speckle dispelling emulsion, by composite emulsifying technique, is absorbed 5 heavy effect components to different cellular layers by skin orientation, effect layer by layer, and freckle effect is remarkable.
The specific embodiment
By specific instantiation, technical scheme of the present invention is described below.Should be understood that one or more method steps that the present invention mentions do not repel between the step that also has additive method step or clearly mention at these before and after described combination step can also insert additive method step; Should also be understood that these embodiment are only not used in and limit the scope of the invention for the present invention is described.And, except as otherwise noted, the numbering of various method steps is only for differentiating the convenient tool of various method steps, but not for limiting the ordering of various method steps or limiting the enforceable scope of the present invention, the change of its relativeness or adjustment, without essence change technology contents in the situation that, when being also considered as the enforceable category of the present invention.
Embodiment 1-5, prepares a kind of speckle dispelling elite emulsion, and active component proportioning is as shown in table 1:
Table 1 embodiment 1-5 prepares the list of speckle dispelling elite emulsion active component batching
Table 2 embodiment 1-5 prepares the water in oil microemulsion batching list (wt%) of component C, component D and component E
Composition |
Embodiment 1 |
Embodiment 2 |
Embodiment 3 |
Embodiment 4 |
Embodiment 5 |
Component C+D+E |
2% |
15% |
5% |
4.2% |
4% |
Base oil |
65% |
60% |
80% |
70% |
60% |
Emulsifying agent |
15% |
10% |
8% |
20% |
10% |
Co-emulsifier |
15% |
10% |
5% |
5.7% |
25% |
Auxiliary antioxidant |
3% |
5% |
2% |
0.1% |
1% |
In table 2, base oil is selected from skin-friendly oils and fats, as squalane, lanoline, olive oil or triglyceride one of them or multiple mixture, and the alternative use of each component, effect is consistent;
Emulsifying agent is selected from h-tallow resin, sorbitan fatty acid ester S-80, castor oil hydrogenated, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenation olive oil one of them or multiple mixture, the alternative use of each component, and effect is consistent;
Co-emulsifier is pentanediol, C12-18 alkyl androstanediol, sodium lactate, n-octyl alcohol, isooctanol, lauryl alcohol one of them or multiple mixture, the alternative use of each component, and effect is consistent;
Auxiliary antioxidant is selected from lycopene and astaxanthin, the two alternative use, and effect is consistent;
The preparation of the water in oil microemulsion of component C, component D and component E: first emulsifying agent is joined in base oil, be fully uniformly mixed, form mixed liquor; Then mixed liquor is joined in the mixture of active component C, active component D and active component E and fully mix; Then add co-emulsifier and auxiliary antioxidant, tentatively be mixed and be placed on the emulsifying in high-speed vacuum Homogenized emulsifier, emulsion process is first under vacuum-0.1~-0.09MPa, temperature 30-50 ℃ condition, 4000-6000r/min stirs 5-10min, and then makes particle diameter at the water in oil microemulsion of 0.01-0.1 μ m with 1500-2500r/min continuation stirring 10-25min emulsifying.
Table 3 embodiment 1-5 prepares the oil-in-water emulsion batching list (wt%) of component A
In table 3, oil-phase component is selected from hydrogenated jojoba oil, polyacrylamide and triethanolamine, the alternative use of three, and effect is consistent; Emulsifying agent is one or more the mixture in glyceryl stearate, C12-18 alkyl-glucoside, polysorbate-60, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, polydimethylsiloxane or polysiloxanes-5, the alternative use of each material, effect is consistent;
The preparation of the oil-in-water emulsion of component A: each material of water-phase component and each material composition of emulsifying agent are mixed respectively under 80-95 ℃ of condition, then by both at 70-95 ℃ after stirring and dissolving mix homogeneously, be placed in Homogenized emulsifier under 2500-5000r/min, after stirring 5-15min, add again component A and oil-phase component; And 2-10 minute is stirred in continuation under aforementioned rotating speed; Afterwards, adjustment rotating speed is 80-500r/min, and under 75-85 ℃ of condition, constant temperature stirs 20-30min and makes described oil-in-water emulsion.
Table 4 embodiment 1-5 prepares the parcel emulsion batching list (wt%) of B component
The preparation of the parcel emulsion of B component: heat-sensitive substance B component is mixed homogeneously at 30-40 ℃ with assisted water soluble active matter and both obtained.
Table 5 embodiment 1-5 prepares the list (wt%) of coloring agent batching
Active component |
Embodiment 1 |
Embodiment 2 |
Embodiment 3 |
Embodiment 4 |
Embodiment 5 |
CI19140 |
55% |
50% |
80% |
60% |
65% |
CI16185 |
45% |
50% |
20% |
40% |
35% |
In addition, coloring agent also can be selected CI16255, CI16035, CI14700, CI45380 and CI15510 etc.
Table 6 embodiment 1-5 prepares speckle dispelling elite emulsion and respectively organizes matched list (wt%)
Embodiment 1-5 speckle dispelling elite emulsion preparation: under temperature 30-50 ℃ condition, by first group slowly join mutually second group mutually in, adopt under turbine type agitator 1000-3000r/min rotating speed, stir 10-20min; Then be cooled to 20-35 ℃, order adds the 3rd group of phase and the 4th group of phase, continues to stir 25-30min, obtains described speckle dispelling elite emulsion.
Irritation test repeatedly:
1 materials and methods
1) tested material compound method: directly test (from embodiment 1-5) by stock solution
2) animal subject and feeding environment: 4 of rabbit are planted by regular grade white New Zealand, and body weight 2.1-2.7kg, is provided laboratory animal production licence: SCXK (Shanghai) 2007-2008 by Shanghai Songjiang district car pier laboratory animal seed multiplication farm.The temperature 19-26 ℃ of laboratory animal breeding room, relative humidity 40-70%.Feed for rabbit is provided by Suzhou two lion laboratory animal feed technology Services Co., Ltd, the quality certification number: Soviet Union raise careful (2009) 05032. laboratory animal occupancy permits number/: SYXK (Shanghai) 2007-0045.
3) experimental technique: before experiment, 24h shaves off back part of animal spinal column diamond wool, shave mao each 3cm * 3cm of scope left and right, during experiment, tested material 0.5ml is evenly spread upon on trial zone, left side skin, right side contrasts with distilled water, smear every day once, continuous 14d, from second day, smear unhairing every day, with warm water, clean, observing response carry out skin irritation reaction scoring by pertinent regulations in Ministry of Public Health < < cosmetics health standard > > 2007 editions after 1h, after off-test, calculate respectively 14 days total marks, 14 days every animal integral mean values, every day every animal integral mean value, and carry out skin irritation strength grading.
2 experimental results
Many skin irritation test results of table 7
3 conclusions
Tested material is to rabbit repeatedly in skin irritation test, and every day, every animal skin irritant reaction integral mean value was 0, belonged to nonirritant.
Compliance test result:
Face has 10 of the experimenters of obvious mottle, and experimenter's skin of face is without other dermatosiss, without viscera disease, without cosmetic allergic contact dermatitis history, healthy, is women.Experimenter is evenly applied to face by product, sooner or later uses every day 1 time, and product cleans facial film with warm water before using, and test period is not used other whitening class cosmetics, uses continuously 4 weeks, and before use, after using, comparative evaluation is observed once.Before assessment, require after the indoor rest 30min of constant temperature and humidity, to carry out after clean of experimenter, indoor light condition is consistent, and assessment selects same position as test target position.
Comparing result is as shown in Fig. 1 (before use) and Fig. 2 (using after 4 weeks).Can find out, use after 4 weeks mottle to start thin out, and wherein 10 people be all effective.In use procedure, do not have and produce uncomfortable and other untoward reaction.