CN104023588A

CN104023588A - Lip makeup kit, cosmetic product applicator and makeup method using same

Info

Publication number: CN104023588A
Application number: CN201280064159.9A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 亨利·萨曼; 弗兰克·吉隆; 克里斯特勒·热夫雷; 艾梅利·赫尔特马特
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2011-12-22
Filing date: 2012-12-19
Publication date: 2014-09-03
Anticipated expiration: 2032-12-19
Also published as: BR112014015561A2; CN104023588B; BR112014015561B1; BR112014015561A8; FR2984699A1; WO2013092724A1; FR2984699B1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a lip makeup kit, a cosmetic product applicator for lips, the uses thereof and the lip makeup method using same. More specifically, the present invention relates to a makeup kit for decorating the lips with a plurality of different colors and/or appearances.

Description

Its cosmetic method of lip cosmetic container, cosmetic applicator and use

Technical field

The present invention relates to a kind of lip cosmetic container, for the cosmetic applicator of lip, they purposes and use their lip cosmetic method.More specifically, the present invention relates to a kind of cosmetic container that makes it have multiple different color and/or outward appearance for beautifying lip.

Background technology

For cosmetics being applied on user's lip, known use lipstick is to shift product by sliding.

In addition,, in order to obtain very gratifying final result, when free, user can use lip liner to form outline line, and uses conventional lipstick to cover the inside of lip.User is the different product of stackable multilayer also, for example, apply a kind of lipstick, then applies the second lipstick, to obtain special colour effect, pattern or the outward appearance of lip.

But these different cosmetic methods are not entirely satisfactory.In fact, outline line is conventionally more wear-resistant than inside, and As time goes on it produce visually unengaging variation sometimes in dressing.

As fruit product is applied, As time goes on, the mixed effect of color is tolerance well not.Because the second layer is positioned on ground floor, therefore it weares and teares at first, produce unengaging intermediate state.

Ideally, user should be able to superpose and increase the polishing of color.But because the high precision of needs is to apply a kind of color polishing, the profile of describing polishing, application the second color, therefore this is actually infeasible.

Therefore, need to find and a kind ofly be suitable for utilizing the various compositions with different colors and/or outward appearance to beautify lip, avoid the technical scheme of the defect of above-mentioned technology simultaneously.

The object of the invention is to meet these demands.

Summary of the invention

The object of the invention is to utilize the various compositions with different colors and/or outward appearance to realize lip makes up.

Object of the present invention also has the lip of two kinds of tonal effect and makes up for utilizing the mixing of two kinds of colors to realize.

Object of the present invention also has the lip of two kinds of tonal effect and makes up for realizing by clearly dividing between two kinds of colors.

The present invention also aims to utilize the composition with different outward appearances to realize lip cosmetic, for example a kind of dumb light, another kind of light.

Therefore, the present invention relates to a kind of cosmetic container, comprising:

The applicator 10 of at least one cosmetics on-user lip, the applicator of the type comprises smears surface 16, smears surperficial shape and people's lip shape is similar, described in smear surperficial for holding cosmetics, and

-described cosmetics, comprising:

The composition (1) of-at least one water-in-oil emulsion form, it comprises physiologically acceptable medium; With

-at least one composition (2), it separates with described composition (1), and comprises physiologically acceptable medium, and described composition (2) is:

● waterborne compositions, with respect to the gross weight of described waterborne compositions, it comprises at least 20% water by weight,

● or, Unctuous compositions, with respect to the gross weight of described Unctuous compositions, it comprises the water that is less than by weight 5%.

Term " physiologically acceptable medium ", for representing that composition according to the present invention is applied to the medium on keratin material, i.e. skin or lip by a kind of being particularly suitable for.

Physiologically acceptable medium is generally suitable for composition and is applied to the character of the carrier on it, and is appropriate to the packaged mode of composition.

water-in-oil type composition (1)

The form that described composition (1) is water-in-oil emulsion.

Term " emulsion " refers in the macroscopic view of two kinds of phases of not dissolving each other all once the mixture of non-homogeneous on microcosmic.

Water-in-oil type (W/O) emulsion is made up of the water being dispersed in oil phase.

In an embodiment of the invention, with respect to the gross weight of composition (1), the water content of composition (1) is 20% to 60% by weight, preferably 20% to 40%.

Water can be: flowers water, for example corn flower water; And/or mineral water, such as the big great waves mineral water of France (Vittel water), Lucas water or reason skin spring (La Roche Posay) water; And/or springwater.

According to an embodiment, composition (1) comprises at least one solvent.

According to an embodiment, composition (1) comprises at least one polar solvent or water-soluble solvent.

Term " water-soluble solvent " in the present invention represent be at ambient temperature liquid and with the water compound of miscible (compatibility under 25 DEG C and atmospheric pressure in water is greater than 50% by weight).

Be suitable for water-soluble solvent of the present invention and can be selected from C _1-8monohydric alcohol, particularly C _1-5monohydric alcohol, particularly ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, the tert-butyl alcohol, n-butanol; C _1-8polyalcohol; And composition thereof.

According to an embodiment, composition (1) comprises at least one non-water-soluble solvent.

This water-insoluble solvent comprises oil.Oil can be selected from hydrocarbon ils, silicone oil, fluorinated oil, and composition thereof.Oil mentioned above can be ethereal oil, nonvolatile oil and composition thereof.

Term " hydrocarbon ils " refers to mainly by carbon atom and hydrogen atom and optional oxygen atom, nitrogen-atoms oil that form or that form, and does not comprise silicon or fluorine; Hydrocarbon ils can comprise ester group, ether, amido, amide groups.

The oil that term " silicone oil " refers to comprise at least one silicon atom and especially comprises Si-O group.

Term " fluorinated oil " refers to the oil that comprises at least one fluorine atom.

Preferably, composition (1) comprises one or more solvents, and described one or more solvents are selected from water, butanediol, glycerine, Sensiva SC50, pentanediol, Permethyl 99A, Isoeicosane, volatile silicone oils and composition thereof.

Preferably, the viscosity of waterborne compositions at 20 DEG C is between 0.3Pas and 100Pas, preferably between 0.5Pas and 100Pas, best between 1Pas and 40Pas.

Preferably, the viscosity of Unctuous compositions at 20 DEG C is between 0.5Pas and 400Pas, preferably between 1Pas and 200Pas, best between 2Pas and 100Pas.

Preferably, the viscosity of emulsion at 20 DEG C is between 0.3Pas and 100Pas, preferably between 0.5Pas and 100Pas, best between 0.5Pas and 40Pas.

Preferably, according to scheme described below, the viscosity of composition according to the present invention at 20 DEG C will be greater than 0.3Pas, especially be greater than 0.5Pas.

Conventionally at 25 DEG C, utilize RHEOMAT RM180 viscosimeter to measure viscosity, this viscosimeter is equipped with the moving body (moving body is selected such that measurement result is all the time between 10DU and 90DU (or deviation unit)) of the viscosity that is suitable for product, in composition, rotate after 10 minutes (after this time at described moving body, observe stability and the rotary speed of the viscosity of moving body), with shear rate 200s ^-1measure.

Then use table of equal value, convert DU value to pool (1 pool=0.1Pas).

Moving body 3 is generally used for the composition of viscosity <3Pas, and moving body 4 is generally used for the composition of viscosity in the scope of 3Pas to 20Pas, and moving body 5 is generally used for the composition of viscosity >20Pas.

Therefore, according to an embodiment, the present invention relates to a kind of cosmetic container, it comprises the applicator on the lip for cosmetics being applied to user, and described cosmetics comprise composition (1) and composition (2).

According to an embodiment of the invention, composition (1) and composition (2) have different colors and/or outward appearance or change to produce different colors and/or outward appearance.

Term " different outward appearances " refers to gloss or different textures.

Term " leaves different outward appearances " and refers to, and color can be identical at first, thereby but changes along with the time and cause and form color or apparent difference.For example, if the color of a kind of composition in described two kinds of compositions is along with the time fails to keep well equally with the color of another composition, can form the outward appearance of two kinds of tones.

Object of the present invention is to realize the lip adornment that comprises multiple different colors or outward appearance.

Object of the present invention is also for realizing the lip adornment that comprises pattern or design.

Especially, seek the ability of the effect that produces solid (relief) effect that increases lip.For this reason, seeking can be on some region of lip, especially on core, place more shallow or darker color, and this more shallow or darker color compares with the color of the residual surface that belongs to lip, has produced stereoeffect.In this case, the aberration Δ E between two regions does not need greatly (Δ E is greater than 2, is preferably more than 4, but is less than 10).

Delta E, dE or Δ E, be defined in the measurement result of two kinds of differences between color.Below be given in the formula limiting for 1976:

{ΔE}^{*} = \sqrt{({(L_{1} - L_{2})}^{2} + {(a_{1} - a_{2})}^{2} + {(b_{1} - b_{2})}^{2}}

Wherein:

L ₁, a ₁, b ₁for the chrominance space coordinate of the first color to be compared in CIE laboratory system, L ₂, a ₂, b ₂for the chrominance space coordinate (L refers to brightness, and a refers to that redness, b refer to yellow) of the second color in CIE laboratory system.

Can utilize video camera to carry out this measurement.

In another situation, seek to be easy to be formed for beautifying the surperficial effect of lip, object is to stamp a kind of natural (owing to finding on some lips) or artificial pattern.In the first situation, will seek to stamp lines, for example, to reappear effect wrinkly.In the second situation, for example, will seek to stamp identification pattern or geometrical pattern.

In another case, seek to produce color difference (color shading) between different regions.Term " color difference " refers to the gradual change from color a to color b, makes by this way can not observe boundary clearly.

In this way, according to an embodiment of the invention, at least one composition in composition (1) or composition (2) comprises at least one dyestuff, and this dyestuff is especially selected from pigment, colouring agent, reflective particles (being also known as glitter) and composition thereof.

According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, composition (1) and composition (2) include at least one dyestuff, and the dyestuff of composition (1) is different from the dyestuff of composition (2).

According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, on user's lip, obtain the outward appearance of two kinds of tones.The outward appearance of these two kinds of tones, for example, can have the effect of mixing, that is, the watershed area between two kinds of colors is indefinite.

For example, if the watershed area between two kinds of colors is clear and definite, the outward appearance of these two kinds of tones also can represent pattern.

In a specific situation, by using any composition in composition (1) and composition (2), can carry out for the profile of lip paintedly, but the available another kind of composition in the inside of lip carries out painted.

According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, a kind of composition in composition (1) and composition (2) comprises at least one dyestuff, and another composition does not comprise any dyestuff.

dyestuff

Dyestuff (being also known as " colouring agent ") can be selected from water miscible or fat-soluble colouring agent, pigment, mother-of-pearl, glitter, and composition thereof.

In composition (1) or composition (2), with respect to the weight of said composition, by weight, dyestuff can exist with 0.01% to 30% content.

Term " pigment " should be understood to refer to inorganic particle or organic granular white or colored, and it is insoluble and for making produced film painted and/or make the film that produces opaque in the aqueous solution.

With respect to the weight of waterborne compositions or Unctuous compositions, pigment can be with by weight 0.01% to 30%, preferably 1% to 12% content be present in composition (1) or composition (2) by weight.

As available inorganic pigment in the present invention, can mention titanium oxide, Zirconium oxide or cerium oxide and zinc oxide, ferriferous oxide or chromated oxide, barba hispanica, manganese violet, ultramarine and chromium hydrate.

Pigment also can be the pigment with following structure: for example this structure can be the structure of sericite/brown iron oxide/titania/silica type.This pigment is that the label of for example being sold by CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS company is the pigment of COVERLEAF NS or COVERLEAF JS, and has about 30 contrast.

Dyestuff also can comprise the pigment with following structure: the structure of the silicon dioxide microsphere body type that this structure example comprises ferriferous oxide as can be.Have this structure pigment be exemplified as the pigment of being sold with title PC BALL PC-LL-100P by MIYOSHI, and this pigment is made up of the silicon dioxide microsphere body that comprises yellow iron oxide.

Preferably, inorganic pigment chosen from Fe oxide used in this invention, titanium dioxide, aluminium hydroxide and silver.

Being suitable for use in organic pigment of the present invention, can mention: carbon black; D & C type pigment; Based on the paint of alkermes, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminium or the pyrrolo-pyrrole-dione (DPP) described in document EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537.

Preferably, organic pigment used in this invention is carmine.

Term " mother-of-pearl " is construed as the colored particles (can be iridescent colors or be not iridescent colors) that means any shape, especially certain mollusk produces in its shell, or replacement scheme is synthesized, and it has color effect by optical interference.

This mother-of-pearl can be selected from pearlescent pigment as apply iron oxide mica titanium, apply bismoclite mica titanium, apply chromium oxide mica titanium, be coated with the mica titanium of organic dye and also have pearlescent pigment based on bismoclite.It can also comprise mica particle, at particle surface superposeed metal oxide layer and/or the organic dye layer of at least two sequential layer.

As the example of mother-of-pearl, also can mention the natural mica that is coated with titanium oxide, ferriferous oxide, natural pigment or bismoclite.

On market, in the middle of commercially available mother-of-pearl, can mention: TIMICA, the FLAMENCO being sold by ENGELHARD and DUOCHROME mother-of-pearl (based on mica); The TIMIRON mother-of-pearl of being sold by MERCK; The mother-of-pearl PRESTIGE based on mica being sold by ECKART; And the mother-of-pearl SUNSHINE based on synthetic mica being sold by SUNCHEMICAL.

More specifically, mother-of-pearl can have color or flash of light yellow, pink colour, red, bronzy, orange, brown, golden and/or coppery.

As the mother-of-pearl that may adopt under background of the present invention for example, that can mention has: bright gold look by name (Brillant gold) 212G (Timica), golden (Gold) 222C (Cloisonne) of especially being sold by ENGELHARD company, dodge golden (Sparkle gold) (Timica), the golden mother-of-pearl of golden (Gold) 4504 (Chromalite) and monarch's gold (Monarch gold) 233X (Cloisonne); The by name tiny bronze colour (Bronze fine) (17384) of especially being sold by MERCK company (Colorona) and bronze (Bronze) (17353) (Colorona) and the by name super copper of being sold by ENGELHARD company (Super bronze) bronze pearls mother (Cloisonne); Especially by name orange (Orange) 363C (Cloisonne) being sold by ENGELHARD company and orange (Orange) MCR101 (Cosmica) and by name strongly orange (the Passion orange) that sold by MERCK company are (Colorona) and dumb light orange (Matte orange) (17449) orange mother-of-pearl (Microna); Especially the brown colouration mother-of-pearl of antique copper by name (Nu-antique copper) 340XB (Cloisonne) being sold by ENGELHARD company and bronze (Bronze) CL4509 (Chromalite); Especially the coppery flash of light mother-of-pearl of copper by name (Copper) 340A (Timica) being sold by ENGELHARD company; The by name tiny brown (Sienna fine) (17386) of especially being sold by MERCK company redness flash of light mother-of-pearl (Colorona); The yellow by name (Yellow) (4502) of especially being sold by ENGELHARD company yellow flash mother-of-pearl (Chromalite); The red colored mother-of-pearl of the golden flash of light of band of sunstone look by name (Sunstone) G012 (Gemtone) especially being sold by ENGELHARD company; Especially the pink colour mother-of-pearl of by name brown white (Tan opale) G005 (Gemtone) being sold by ENGELHARD company; The black mother-of-pearl of the golden flash of light of band of antique gold by name (the Nu antique bronze) 240AB (Timica) especially being sold by ENGELHARD company; The dumb light blueness by name (Matteblue) (17433) of especially being sold by MERCK company blue mother-of-pearl (Microna); The white pearl mother with silver color flash of light of the Xi Luona silver color by name (Xirona Silver) of especially being sold by MERCK company; Especially the Indian summer look by name (Indian summer) of being sold by the MERCK company pink orange mother-of-pearl of fairy green (Xirona); And composition thereof.

Preferably, mother-of-pearl according to the present invention is selected from borosilicate and the mica of borosilicate, calcium and the sodium of synthetic fluorophologopite, calcium and aluminium.

Term " colouring agent " be often referred to fat (for example oil) or water alcohol mutually in the organic compound of dissolving.

Also can comprise water miscible or fat-soluble colouring agent according to composition of the present invention (1) and composition (2).Fat-soluble colouring agent is for example that tonyred, DC are red 17, DC is green 6, beta carotene, sudan brown, DC Huang 11, DC purple 2, DC orange 5 and quinoline yellow.Water-soluble colorant is for example beet root juice and methylenum careuleum.

Preferably, colouring agent is selected from yellow 5, red 4, red 7, red 21, red 27, red 28, red 33, red 40, (yellow 5 color lakes, yellow 6 color lakes, blue 1 color lake).

Also can comprise at least one material (being also known as particle flash of light or reflective) with specific optical effect according to composition of the present invention (1) or composition (2).

This effect is different from simple conventional color effect, effect unification and stable of the type that this simple conventional color effect for example, is produced by conventional dyestuff (solid color pigments).For purposes of the present invention, term " stable " represents not exist according to observation angle or in response to variations in temperature change color effect.

For example, this material can be selected from particle, goniochromatic colouring agent, diffractive pigment, thermal change toner, brightener and the fiber with flash metal luster, especially interferes the fiber of type.Certainly, these different materials can be combined to manifest when two kinds of effects are provided or according to new effect of the present invention.

ethereal oil

According to an embodiment, composition (1) comprises at least one ethereal oil, is especially selected from the ethereal oil of volatility hydrocarbon ils and volatile silicone oils and composition thereof.

Term " ethereal oil " is used in reference to: under environment temperature and atmospheric pressure (760mm Hg), and any oil that just can volatilize in the time not reaching 1 hour with keratin substances.Be following such organic solvent and volatility greasepaint according to volatile organic solvent of the present invention and ethereal oil: be liquid at ambient temperature, under environment temperature and atmospheric pressure, there is the vapour pressure that is different from 0, especially from 0.13Pa to 40000Pa (10 ^-3mm Hg is to 300mm Hg), especially from 1.3Pa to 13000Pa (0.01mm Hg to 100mmHg) and more particularly from the vapour pressure of 1.3Pa to 1300Pa (0.01mm Hg to 10mm Hg).

These oil can be hydrocarbon ils, silicone oil, fluorinated oil or its mixture.

Term " silicone oil " refer to comprise at least one silicon atom, especially comprise Si-O group oil.

Be suitable for volatile silicone oils used in this invention optional from viscosity especially≤8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 ^-6m ²/ silicone oil s).

Be suitable for volatile silicone oils used in this invention can be selected from flash-point be 40 DEG C to 102 DEG C, preferably flash-point be greater than 55 DEG C and be less than or equal to 95 DEG C, preferably flash-point is the silicone oil of 65 DEG C to 95 DEG C.

Volatile silicone oils can be selected from silicone oil straight chain or ring-type, the dimethyl silicone polymer (PDMS) with 3 to 7 silicon atoms for example straight chain or ring-type.

This oil of giving an example, can mention octyl group trimethyl polysiloxanes, hexyl trimethyl polysiloxanes, decamethylcyclopentaandoxane (D5 or D5), octamethylcy-clotetrasiloxane (ring four dimethyl siloxanes or D4), ten diformazan basic ring six siloxanes (D6), decamethyl tetrasiloxane (L4), Shin Etsu KF96A, (name of for example being sold by Dow Corning is called DC200 (1.5cSt) to dimethyl silicone polymer, DC200 (5cSt), the dimethyl silicone polymer of DC200 (3cSt)), ten dimethyl five siloxanes (L5) (INCI title dimethyl polysiloxane) (for example Shin Etsu KF-96L-2CS and Dow Corning DM-Fluid-2CS).

Preferably, volatile silicone oils be selected from volatile straight chain silicone oil, volatile ring-type silicone oil, and composition thereof.

According to a specific embodiment, volatile ring-type silicone oil be selected from decamethylcyclopentaandoxane (D5 or D5), ten diformazan basic ring six siloxanes (D6), and composition thereof.

According to another specific embodiment, volatile straight chain silicone oil is selected from the dimethyl silicone polymer that molecular weight is 1cst to 5cst (PDMS), especially decamethyl five siloxanes (L5).

According to an embodiment, volatile silicone oil account for by weight composition (1) gross weight 15% to 20%.

According to an embodiment, they can be associated with 2% to 7% non-volatile silicone oil of the gross weight that accounts for by weight composition (1).

Term " hydrocarbon ils " refers to mainly by carbon atom and hydrogen atom and optional oxygen atom, nitrogen-atoms oil that form or that form, and does not comprise silicon or fluorine.It can comprise alcohol radical, ester group, ether, carboxylic acid group, amido and/or amide group.

The optional hydrocarbon ils from thering are 8 to 16 carbon atoms (preferably between 8 carbon atoms and 14 carbon atoms) of volatility hydrocarbon ils, especially flash-point is less than or equal to the volatility hydrocarbon ils of 80 DEG C (flash-point is particularly measured according to ISO3679 standard), and is especially selected from:

-C ₈-C ₁₆branched paraffin, for example C based on oil ₈-C ₁₆isoalkane (also referred to as isoparaffin), such as Permethyl 99A (also referred to as 2,2,4,4,6-five methylheptane), isodecane with the oil of for example selling with trade name Isopars' or Permetyls,

-linear paraffin, the n-dodecane (C12) of for example being sold with title PARAFOL12-97 and PARAFOL14-97 respectively by Sasol and n-tetradecane (C14), and composition thereof, the n-undecane (C11) obtaining in hendecane-tridecane mixture, embodiment 1 in the application WO2008/155059 of Cognis and embodiment 2 and the mixture of n-tridecane (C13), and composition thereof.

-C ₈-C ₁₆branched ester, neopentanoic acid dissident ester, and composition thereof.Also can use other volatility hydrocarbon ils, such as petroleum distillate, the petroleum distillate of especially being sold with title Shell Solt by SHELL.

Be suitable for being used according to other the example of volatility hydrocarbon ils in composition of the present invention (1), also can mention: liquid ketone at ambient temperature, for example methyl ethyl ketone, acetone; Short-chain ester (altogether thering are 3 to 8 carbon atoms), for example ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate; Liquid ether at ambient temperature, for example diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether.

Ethereal oil also can be selected from fluorinated oil, for example PFPE, perfluoro alkane, perfluoroalkyl phosphate monoester, perfluoroalkyl di-phosphate ester and perfluoroalkyl phosphotriester and fluoridize ester oil.

fatty ester

According to an embodiment, composition (1) can comprise fatty ester, and this fatty ester is especially selected from lauric acid hexyl ester, isooctadecanol pivalate, glyceryl tristearate and acetylizad glycol stearate.

Term " fat " refers to the material being made up of hydrophobic molecule.

gelling agent

According to an embodiment, composition (1) comprises at least one gelling agent.It can be inorganic or organic, polymerization or the non-polymeric water gelling agent of lipophilicity gelling agent.

About the example of inorganic lipophilicity gelling agent, the hectorite that utilizes VARISOFT TA100 modification (CTFA title: distearyl dimethylammonium hectorite) that can mention the magnesium silicate (RHEOX Bentone gel VS38) of for example modification, be sold with title " Bentone38CE " by RHEOX.

About the example of inorganic lipophilicity gelling agent, also can mention the clay of modification alternatively, for example utilize C ₁₀to C ₂₂the hectorite of aliphatic acid chlorination ammonium modification, for example utilize the hectorite of distearyl Dimethyl Ammonium modification, for example by ELEMENTIS with title Bentone the hectorite that utilizes the modification of distearyl Dimethyl Ammonium of selling.

Also can mention the coking silica that carries out alternatively hydrophobic surface processing, wherein, particle size is less than 1 μ m.In fact, can be by causing the chemical reaction of reduction of the silanol group existing on silica surface, the chemically surface of improved silica.Silanol group can especially be replaced by hydrophobic group, obtains thus hydrophobic silica.Hydrophobic grouping can be:

-trimethylsiloxy group group is especially processed the trimethylsiloxy group group that coking silica obtains under HMDS exists.According to CTFA (1995, sixth version), the silica of processing is like this called as " silylanizing silica ".For example, by DEGUSSA with title Aerosil product sold and by CABOT with title CAB-O-SIL TS- product sold,

-dimethyl silane oxygen base or dimethyl silicone polymer base are especially processed coking silica and are obtained under dimethyl silicone polymer or dimethyldichlorosilane existence.According to CTFA (sixth version, 1995), the silica of processing is by this way known as " silylanizing dimethyl silica ".For example, they by DEGUSSA with title Aerosil and Aerosil sell and by CABOT with title CAB-O-SIL TS- with CAB-O-SIL TS- sell.

Hydrophobicity coking silica especially has can be for nanoscale be to micron-sized particle size, for example particle size of about 5nm to 200nm.

Organically organic lipophilicity gelling agent of the optional auto polymerization of lipophilicity gelling agent, for example:

-there are the partial cross-linked of three-dimensional structure or whole crosslinked elastic organic polyorganosiloxanes, for example by SHIN-ETSU with title with sell, by DOW-CORNING with title Trefil E- with Trefil E- sell, by GRANT INDUSTRIES with title Gransil SR- sR sR- sR5CYC sR DMF10 with SR DC556 sell and by GENERAL ELECTRIC with title SF and JK the elastic organic polyorganosiloxane of selling;

-ethyl cellulose, for example by DOW CHEMICAL with title the ethyl cellulose of selling;

-polysiloxane type silicone polyamide, for example, at document US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981, those polysiloxane type silicone polyamide of describing in 680, the polysiloxane type silicone polyamide of for example being sold with Dow Corning2-8179 gelling agent by DOW CORNING;

-each sugar comprises one to six, the galactomannans of two to four hydroxyls especially, and it is replaced by saturated alternatively alkyl chain, for example, by C ₁to C ₆, C especially ₁to C ₃the alkylating guar gum of alkyl chain and composition thereof;

The block copolymer of-" diblock ", " three blocks " or " radial " type; The block copolymer of polystyrene/polyisoprene or polystyrene/polybutadiene type, for example by BASF with title Luvitol the block copolymer of selling; The block copolymer of polystyrene/copolymerization (ethylene-propylene) type, for example by SHELL CHEMICAL CO with title the block copolymer of selling; Or the block copolymer of polystyrene copolymerization (ethene-butylene) type, the mixture of three blocks in Permethyl 99A and radial (star) copolymer, for example by PENRECO with title the mixture of selling, the mixture (Versagel M5960) of butylene/ethylene/styrene triblock copolymer of for example Permethyl 99A and ethylene/propene/styrene radial copolymer.

About being suitable for use according to the example of the organic lipophilicity gelling agent in composition of the present invention (1), also can mention the ester of dextrin and aliphatic acid, for example dextrin palmitate, especially such as by CHIBA FLOUR with title Rheopearl or Rheopearl the dextrin palmitate of selling.

Preferably, gelling agent is selected from: inorganic lipophilicity gelling agent, for example distearyl Dimethyl Ammonium hectorite; With water gelling agent, such as anionic copolymer, for example acrylate copolymer.

Preferably, gelling agent is selected from water gelling agent, such as carbomer or glue, and for example xanthans or guar gum.

Organic lipophilicity gelling agent of the optional auto polymerization of lipophilicity gelling agent, for example silica gel or mineral (such as bentonite) and composition thereof.

composition (2)

As mentioned above, composition (2) is waterborne compositions or Unctuous compositions.

According to an embodiment, composition (2) mentioned above comprises at least one nonvolatile oil, is especially selected from the nonvolatile oil of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and non-volatile silicone oil and composition thereof.

Term " oil " refers to non-aqueous compound, this non-aqueous compound and water unmixing and lower at environment temperature (25 DEG C) and atmospheric pressure (760mm Hg) be liquid.

Term " nonvolatile oil " refers under environment temperature and atmospheric pressure on keratin substances, to continue to retain at least several hours and has and be less than 10 especially ^-3the oil of the vapour pressure of mm Hg (0.13Pa).Nonvolatile oil also can be restricted to: under the condition above limiting, its evaporation rate having makes the evaporation capacity after 30 minutes be less than 0.07mg/cm ².

Be suitable for non-volatile silicone oil used in this invention and can be especially selected from such silicone oil: especially the viscosity at 25 DEG C is more than or equal to 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 × 10 ^-6m ²/ s) and be preferably less than 800000cSt, preferably between 50cSt and 600000cSt, preferably between 100cSt and 500000cSt.Can be according to ASTM D-445 canonical measure silicon oil viscosity.

In these silicone oil, whether be benzene generation according to them, can between the oil of two types, distinguish.

According to the first embodiment, non-volatile silicone oil is the oil in non-benzene generation (non-phenylated).

About the example of the nonvolatile oil in non-benzene generation, can mention:

-non-volatile dimethyl silicone polymer (PDMS),

-comprise alkyl the dangle PDMS of chain and/or silicone chains end group (each have 2 to 24 carbon atoms) of chain (pendant) or alkoxyl that dangles,

-comprise aliphatic group and/or aryl or the PDMS such as the functional group of hydroxyl, mercapto and/or amido,

-utilize alternatively and fluoridize the poly-alkyl methyl siloxanes that base replaces, for example poly-methyl trifluoro propyl dimethyl siloxane,

The poly-alkyl methyl siloxanes that the functional group of-utilization such as hydroxyl, mercapto and/or amido replaces,

-by aliphatic acid, fatty alcohol or polyoxyalkylene, and composition thereof the polysiloxanes of modification.

As the representative of these non-volatile straight chain silicone oil, can mention dimethyl silicone polymer, alkyl dimethyl silicone polymer, vinyl methyl polymethyl siloxane and the aliphatic group of being fluoridized alternatively or by the silicone of institute of the functional group modification such as hydroxyl, mercapto and/or amido.

The straight chain silicone oil in non-benzene generation can especially be selected from the silicone with following structural formula (I):

Wherein:

R ₁, R ₂, R ₅and R ₆be the alkyl with 1 to 6 carbon atom together or independently,

R ₃and R ₄be alkyl, vinyl, amido or the hydroxyl with 1 to 6 carbon atom together or independently,

X is alkyl, hydroxyl or the amido with 1 to 6 carbon atom,

Wherein, n and p are integer, and are selected such that to obtain fluid compound, and especially, wherein the viscosity at 25 DEG C is at 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 × 10 ^-6m ²/ fluid compound s) and between 800000cSt.

As according to the example of non-volatile silicone oil of the present invention, can mention such compound,

-substituent R ₁to R ₆with X represent methylidene, it is 500000cst that p and n make viscosity, for example by General Electric with title SE30 sell, by Waker with title AK500000 sell, by Bluestar with title Mirasil DM500.000 sell and by Dow Corning with title Dow Corning200Fluid500.000cst sell silicone oil.

-substituent R ₁to R ₆with X represent methylidene, it is 60000cst that p and n make viscosity, the silicone oil of for example being sold with title Dow Corning200Fluid60000CS by Dow Corning and sold with title Wacker Belsil DM60.000 by Wacker.

-substituent R ₁to R ₆with X represent methylidene, it is 350cst that p and n make viscosity, the silicone oil of for example being sold with title Dow Corning200Fluid350CS by DowCorning.

-substituent R ₁to R ₆represent methylidene, radicals X representation hydroxy, it is 700cst that n and p make viscosity, the silicone oil of for example being sold with title Baysilone Fluid T0.7 by Momentive.

According to an embodiment, the straight chain silicone oil that comprises at least one non-benzene generation according to composition of the present invention (2).

According to one can alternative embodiment, the silicone oil that comprises at least one nonvolatile benzene generation according to composition of the present invention (2).

As the oily example in nonvolatile benzene generation, can mention:

-there is the silicone oil in the benzene generation of following formula:

Wherein, if at least one R base represents phenyl, radicals R represent methylidene or phenyl independently.Preferably, in the formula, the silicone oil in benzene generation comprises at least three phenyl, for example at least four, at least five or at least six phenyl.

-there is the silicone oil in the benzene generation of following formula:

Wherein, if at least one R base represents phenyl, R base represent methylidene or phenyl independently.Preferably, in the formula, described organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl, for example at least four or at least five phenyl.Can use the mixture of the organosiloxane in above-described benzene generation.For example, can mention the mixture of organopolysiloxane, the organopolysiloxane in four benzene generations or the organopolysiloxane in pentaphene generation in triphen generation.

-there is the silicone oil in the benzene generation of following formula:

Wherein, Me represent methylidene, Ph represents phenyl.The silicone in this benzene generation particularly by Dow Corning with numbering PH-1555HRI or Dow Corning555Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl 1,1,3,5,5-pentaphene base trisiloxanes, INCI title: trimethyl pentaphene base trisiloxanes) produce.Also can use numbering Dow Corning554Cosmetic Fluid.

-there is the silicone oil in the benzene generation of following formula:

Wherein, Me represent methylidene, y is between 1 and 1000, and X representative-CH ₂-CH (CH ₃) (Ph).

-there is the silicone oil in the benzene generation of following formula (V):

Wherein, Me is that methyl and Ph are phenyl, OR ' representative-OSiMe ₃base, y be 0 or between 1 and 1000 change, z changes between 1 and 1000, making compound (V) is nonvolatile oil.

According to the first embodiment, y changes between 1 and 1000.For example, can use trimethylsiloxy group phenyl dimethyl silicone polymer, the trimethylsiloxy group phenyl dimethyl silicone polymer of especially being sold with numbering BELSIL PDM1000 by Wacker.

According to the second embodiment, y equals 0.For example, can use the phenyl trimethylsiloxy group trisiloxanes of especially selling with DOW CORNING556COSMETIC GRADE FLUID.

-there is the silicone oil in the benzene generation of following formula (VI), and composition thereof:

Wherein:

-R ₁to R ₁₀be C independently respectively ₁-C ₃₀alkyl straight chain, ring-type or side chain, saturated or unsaturated,

If the summation of-' m+n+q ' is not equal to 0, m, n, p and q are respectively the integer between 0 and 900 independently.

Preferably, the summation of ' m+n+q ' is between 1 and 100.Preferably, the summation of ' m+n+p+q ' is between 1 and 900 or preferably between 1 and 800.Preferably, q equals 0.

-there is the silicone oil in the benzene generation of following formula (VII), and composition thereof:

Wherein:

-R ₁to R ₆be C independently respectively ₁-C ₃₀alkyl straight chain, ring-type or side chain, saturated or unsaturated,

If the summation of-' n+m ' is between 1 and 100, m, n and p are respectively the integer between 0 and 100 independently.

Preferably, R ₁to R ₆represent independently respectively C ₁-C ₃₀, C especially ₁-C ₁₂saturated alkyl, especially methyl, ethyl, propyl group or butyl straight chain or side chain.

Especially, R ₁to R ₆can be identical, and can be methyl.

Preferably, in structural formula (VII), can make m=1 or 2 or 3 and/or n=0 and/or p=0 or 1.

-there is the silicone oil in the benzene generation of following formula (VIII), and composition thereof:

Wherein:

-R is C ₁-C ₃₀alkyl, aryl or aralkyl,

-n is the integer between 0 to 100, and

If the summation of-n+m is in 1 to 100 variation, m is 0 to 100 integer.

Especially, the R base in formula (VIII) and R defined above ₁to R ₁₀, can represent respectively alkyl saturated or unsaturated straight chain or side chain, especially C ₂-C ₂₀, C especially ₃-C ₁₆, C more specifically ₄-C ₁₀, or C ₆-C ₁₄, C especially ₁₀-C ₁₃monocycle or the aryl or aralkyl of many rings, wherein, aryl and alkyl as above limit.

Preferably, according to R and the R of formula (VIII) ₁to R ₁₀can distinguish represent methylidene, ethyl, propyl group, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl or phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl.

According to an embodiment, can use according to the silicone oil in the benzene generation of formula (VIII), its viscosity at 25 DEG C is at 5mm ²/ s and 1500mm ²between/s (, 5cSt to 1500cSt), preferably viscosity is at 5mm ²/ s and 1000mm ²between/s (, 5cSt to 1000cSt).

As according to the silicone oil in the benzene generation of formula (VIII), can use phenyl gather trimethicone (such as the DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5cSt), from the Silbione70663V30 oil (28cSt) of Poulenc) or diphenyl dimethyl silicone polymer (such as especially the Belsil oil from Wacker, particularly Belsil PDM1000 (1000cSt), Belsil PDM200 (200cSt) and Belsil PDM20 (20cSt)).Viscosity when value in bracket represents 25 DEG C.

-there is the silicone oil in the benzene generation of following formula, and composition thereof:

Wherein:

R ₁, R ₂, R ₅and R ₆be all or independently for thering is the alkyl of 1 to 6 carbon atom,

R ₃and R ₄be all or independently for thering is alkyl or the aryl of 1 to 6 carbon atom,

X is alkyl, hydroxyl or the vinyl with 1 to 6 carbon atom,

Wherein, n and p selected are less than 200000g/mol to obtain molecular weight, are preferably less than 150000g/mol, are more preferably less than the oil of 100000g/mol.

-especially, the silicone in benzene generation be selected from the poly-trimethicone of phenyl, phenyl dimethyl silicone polymer, phenyl trimethylsiloxy group diphenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethyl silicone polymer, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy group esters of silicon acis, and composition thereof.

Especially, the silicone in benzene generation be selected from the poly-trimethicone of phenyl, phenyl dimethyl silicone polymer, phenyl trimethylsiloxy group diphenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethyl silicone polymer, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy group esters of silicon acis, and composition thereof.

Preferably, the molecular weight of the silicone oil in non-volatile benzene generation is 500g/mol to 10000g/mol.

Preferably, silicone oil is selected from:

I) silicone oil in benzene generation, especially has the silicone oil in following formula (II) or benzene generation (VII):

Wherein:

-R ₁to R ₆be C independently of one another ₁-C ₃₀alkyl straight chain, ring-type or side chain, saturated or unsaturated,

If-' the summation of n+m' is between 1 and 100, m, n and p are the integer between 0 and 100 independently of one another;

Wherein, R base is represent methylidene or phenyl independently, and at least one R base is phenyl.

Ii) dimethyl silicone polymer straight chain or ring-type (PDMS),

Iii) comprise the dangle dimethyl silicone polymer of chain and/or silicone chains end group of alkyl or alkoxyl, each group comprises 2 to 24 carbon atoms,

As the silicone oil in benzene generation, preferably use the oil with formula (V) or formula (II) (preferably formula (III)).

As the example of preferred non-volatile silicone oil, can mention following silicone oil:

The silicone (also referred to as the silicone oil in benzene generation) in-benzene generation, such as the BELSIL PDM1000 (MW=9000g/mol) from WACKER (referring to said structure formula (V)), phenyl gathers trimethicone (such as the poly-trimethicone of the phenyl of being sold with trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl dimethyl silicone polymer, phenyl trimethylsiloxy group diphenyl siloxane, diphenyl dimethyl silicone polymer, diphenyl methyl diphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy group esters of silicon acis, trimethyl pentaphene base trisiloxanes (such as the trimethyl pentaphene base trisiloxanes of being sold with title Dow Corning PH-1555HRI cosmetic fluid (cosmetic fluid) by Dow Corning) (referring to above-mentioned formula (III)),

-nonvolatile dimethyl silicone polymer (PDMS), this dimethyl silicone polymer comprises alkyl or alkoxyl dangle chain and/or silicone chains end group, each group comprises 2 to 24 carbon atoms;

-and composition thereof.

It should be noted that, in the middle of silicone oil mentioned above, the silicone oil in benzene generation has been found to be particularly advantageous.To be applied to after skin or lip according to composition of the present invention (2), they especially give good luminance level, and are not created in the thickness sense on lip.

According to an embodiment, be nonpolar hydrocarbon ils according to the nonvolatile oil comprising in composition of the present invention (2).

These oil can be plant origin, mineral source or synthetic source.

Refer at 25 DEG C of solubility parameter δ according to term of the present invention " non-polar oil " _aequal 0 (J/cm ³) ^1/2oil.

Definition and the calculating of the Chinese gloomy (HANSEN) three solubility parameters have been described in the article " The three dimensional solubility parameters " (J.Paint Technol.39,105 (1967)) of C.M.HANSEN.

According to the gloomy space of the Chinese:

-δ _dthe london dispersion force that is characterized in the formation of the dipole of inducing during molecule shock wave and produce;

-δ _pbe characterized in debye (DEBYE) interaction force between permanent dipole and the KEESOM interaction force between induced dipole and permanent dipole;

-δ _hcharacterize specific interaction force (for example hydrogen, acid/alkali, donor key/acceptor key etc.); With

-δ _adetermined by following formula: δ _a=(δ _p ²+ δ _h ²) ^1/2.

Parameter δ _p, δ _h, δ _dand δ _awith (J/cm ³) ^1/2explain.

Term " hydrocarbon ils " refers to that substantially it does not comprise silicon or fluorine by carbon atom and hydrogen atom and optional oxygen atom, nitrogen-atoms oil that form or that form.It can comprise alcohol groups, ester group, ether group, hydroxy-acid group, amine groups and/or amide group.

Term " hydrocarbon ester oil " refers to the hydrocarbon ils that comprises at least one ester group.

Preferably, nonvolatile nonpolar hydrocarbon ils does not have oxygen atom.

Preferably, nonvolatile nonpolar hydrocarbon ils is optional for example, from inorganic or synthetic hydrocarbon straight chain or side chain:

-paraffin oil or derivatives thereof,

-saualane,

-Isoeicosane,

-vaseline oil,

-naphtalene oil,

-polybutene, the INDOPOL H-100 that for example sells or manufacture by AMOCO (molecular weight MW=965g/mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MW=1340g/mol), INDOPOL H-1500 (MW=2160g/mol),

The polyisobutene of-hydrogenation, for example, sold by NIPPON OIL FATS , the PANALANE H-300E (MW=1340g/mol) that sells or manufacture by AMOCO, the VISEAL20000 (MW=6000g/mol) that sells or manufacture by SYNTEAL, the REWOPAL PIB1000 (MW=1000g/mol) that sells or manufacture by WITCO

-decene/butylene copolymer, polybutene/polyisobutene co-polymer, Indopol L-14 especially,

The poly decene of-poly decene and hydrogenation, for example: the PURESYN10 (MW=723g/mol), the PURESYN150 (MW=9200g/mol) that sell or manufacture by MOBIL CHEMICALS, and composition thereof.

According to the first embodiment, described nonvolatile oil is polarity hydrocarbon ils.

Refer to the solubility δ at 25 DEG C according to term of the present invention " polar oil " _abe not equal to 0 (J/cm ³) ^1/2oil.

These oil can be plant origin, mineral source or synthetic source.

Term " polarity hydrocarbon ils " refers to that substantially it does not comprise silicon or fluorine by carbon atom and hydrogen atom and optional oxygen atom, nitrogen-atoms oil that form or that form.It can comprise alcohol groups, ester group, ether group, hydroxy-acid group, amine groups and/or amide group.

Especially, optional list from following oil of this non-volatile polarity hydrocarbon ils and composition thereof:

-hydrocarbon ils based on plant, for example, have the aliphatic acid liquid triglycerides of 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example D3-C7 or Trivent OCG or SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS SEED OIL;

-there is the hydrocarbon ester of formula RCOOR ', wherein RCOO represents the carboxylic acid residues that comprises 2 to 30 carbon atoms, R ' represents the hydrocarbon chain that comprises 1 to 30 carbon atom, for example isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate or octyl group-2-dodecyl pivalate, isopropyl myristate;

-the polyester that obtains by the condensation of undersaturated dimer fatty acid and/or trimer and glycol, for example, describe those polyester in patent application FR0 853 634, for example the polyester of dilinoleic acid and BDO especially.About this point, can mention especially by Biosynthesis with the polymer of title Viscoplast14436H (INCI title: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer) sale or copolymer and the ester thereof of polyalcohol and diacid dimer, for example Hailuscent ISDA

-there is the fatty alcohol of 12 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably monohydric alcohol, side chain preferably, for example octyl dodecanol, 2-butyl octanol, 2-hexyl decyl alcohol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleic acid;

-C ₁₂-C ₂₂higher fatty acids, for example oleic acid, linoleic acid, leukotrienes, and composition thereof;

-oil based on plant, for example sesame oil (820.6g/mol);

-for example the aliphatic acid of 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example oleic acid;

-dialkyl carbonate, these two alkyl chains can be identical or different, for example by Cognis with title Cetiol the carbonic acid dioctyl ester of selling; With

The nonvolatile oil of-HMW, for example, for example, between 650g/mol and 10000g/mol:

In the middle of the nonvolatile oil of HMW, can mention:

● vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, vinyl pyrrolidone/cetene copolymer A NTARON V – 216 (MW=7300g/mol) that for example sold by ISP or manufacture,

● ester oil, for example

-there is the fatty acid ester of the straight chain of 35 to 70 total carbon numbers, for example pentaerythrite four pelargonates (MW=697.05g/mol),

-hydroxylating ester, for example polyglycerol-2-tri-isostearates (MW=965.58g/mol),

-aromatic ester, for example tridecanol trimellitate (MW=757.19g/mol),

-C ₂₄-C ₂₈aliphatic alcohol ester or the fatty acid ester of side chain, those aliphatic alcohol esters or the fatty acid ester for example in application EP-A-0 955 039, described, especially three Isoeicosane alcohol citrates (MW=1033.76g/mol), the different pelargonate of pentaerythrite four (MW=697.05g/mol), glycerine three isostearates (MW=891.51g/mol), glycerine three decyls-2-myristate (MW=1143.98g/mol), pentaerythritol tetraoctyl stearate (MW=1202.02g/mol), polyglycereol-2-tetraoctyl stearate (MW=1232.04g/mol) or pentaerythrite four decyls-2-myristate (MW=1538.66g/mol),

Ester and the polyester of the ester of-bis-polyalcohols and monocarboxylic acid and polyester, two polyalcohols and dicarboxylic acids, for example ester of two polyalcohols and aliphatic acid and two polyalcohols and the dimeric ester of dicarboxylic acids, can especially mention by NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL with trade name LUSPLAN DD- and DD- two sub-oily two acid esters of selling and two sub-oily glycol dimers, and composition thereof.

Two polyalcohols mentioned above and monocarboxylic ester can be by comprising 4 to 34 carbon atoms, especially the monocarboxylic acid of 10 to 32 carbon atoms obtains, and described acid is that be straight chain, side chain, saturated or unsaturated.

As being suitable for monocarboxylic example of the present invention, can especially mention aliphatic acid.

The ester of two polyalcohols and dicarboxylic acids can be obtained by dicarboxylic acids dimer, and described dicarboxylic acids dimer especially obtains from the dimerization of unrighted acid, especially C of described unrighted acid ₈to C ₃₄, C especially ₁₂to C ₂₂, C especially ₁₆to C ₂₀, C more specifically ₁₈unrighted acid.

According to one specifically can alternative embodiment, it is especially made up of dicarboxylic acids dimer, is obtained by this dicarboxylic acids dimer for two polyalcohols of esterification.

The ester of dimerization alcohol and carboxylic acid can obtain by two polyalcohols that the dimeric catalytic hydrogenation of dicarboxylic acids produces as described, two sub-oily two acid diacids of for example hydrogenation.

As the example of dimerization alcohol ester, can especially mention by NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL with trade name LUSPLANDD- and DD- two sub-oily diacid and the two leukotrienes dimerization alcohol esters sold.

Preferably, nonvolatile nonpolar hydrocarbon grease separation is from isopropyl palmitate or octyldodecanol.

According to an embodiment, nonvolatile oil is fluorinated oil.

Be suitable for fluorinated silicone and perfluorochemical that fluorinated oil of the present invention can be selected from fluorosilicon oil, fluorinated polyether, in document EP-A-847752, describe.

Refer to according to term of the present invention " perfluorochemical " compound that whole hydrogen atoms are replaced by fluorine atom.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, fluorinated oil according to the present invention is selected from perfluor carburetion.

As the example that is suitable for perfluor carburetion of the present invention, can mention perfluorodecalin, perfluor hydrogen phenanthrene.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, fluorinated oil is selected from perfluor hydrogen phenanthrene, is especially sold by Cr é ations Couleurs product.Especially, can use the INCI name of being sold with numbering FIFLOW220 by F2Chemicals to be called the fluorinated oil of perfluor hydrogen phenanthrene.

If composition (2) is waterborne compositions, it also can comprise at least one polarity or water miscible solvent.

According to water-soluble solvent of the present invention as described above.

Preferably, described waterborne compositions comprises at least one water-soluble solvent, is especially selected from the water-soluble solvent of alcohol or polyalcohol, is more specifically selected from glycerine, pentanediol, 96 ° of ethanol of non-sex change and composition thereof.

According to the present invention, described waterborne compositions can comprise at least one fat, fixed hydrocarbon polar oil preferably.

With respect to the gross weight of waterborne compositions, by weight, waterborne compositions preferably includes the fat that is less than 35%.

Term " fat " refers to the material being made up of hydrophobic molecule.

Be suitable for use according to the non-volatile polar oil in waterborne compositions of the present invention as described above.

Described waterborne compositions also can comprise the compound of any water miscible or water dispersible compatible with water, for example gelling agent, film forming polymer, thickener, surfactant and composition thereof.

Therefore, described waterborne compositions can comprise at least one gelling agent.

Gelling agent according to the present invention is described above.

Preferably, gelling agent is selected from organic lipophilicity gelling agent (for example guar gum), ethyl cellulose of water gelling agent (for example carbomer or the glue such as xanthans) and polymerization and composition thereof.

If composition (2) is Unctuous compositions, according to of the present invention one preferred embodiment, with respect to the gross weight of Unctuous compositions, described Unctuous compositions comprises and is less than by weight 5% or be even less than 2% water, and can be especially anhydrous.

Preferably, described Unctuous compositions is anhydrous composition.Term " anhydrous " especially refers to that water does not preferably deliberately add in composition, but can in the various compounds that are used in composition, exist with the level of trace.

hard fat

In one embodiment, with respect to the gross weight of Unctuous compositions, described Unctuous compositions comprises content by weight and is less than or equal at least one hard fat of 30%.

According to an embodiment, this fat is wax.

Refer to lipophilic compound according to term of the present invention " wax ", it is lower in environment temperature (25 DEG C) is solid, and has reversible solid phase/liquid phase and change and be more than or equal to 30 DEG C until 200 DEG C and the fusing point up to 120 DEG C especially.Especially the fusing point that, is suitable for wax of the present invention can be more than or equal to 45 DEG C, especially be more than or equal to 55 DEG C.

According to the present invention, fusing point is equivalent to the temperature that observes maximum endothermic peak in heat analysis (DSC) of describing as in standard ISO 11357-3 (1999).The fusing point of wax can use differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) to measure, the calorimeter of for example being sold with title " DSC Q2000 " by TA Instruments.

Preferably, wax has the fusion enthalpy Δ Hf that is more than or equal to 70J/g.

Preferably, wax comprises by appreciable at least one part that is suitable for crystallization of X-ray observation.

Measurement scheme is as follows:

The wax sample of 5mg in crucible will be placed on, carry out the temperature rise for the first time from-20 DEG C to 120 DEG C with the rates of heat addition of 10 DEG C/min, then be cooled to-20 DEG C with the cooldown rate of 10 DEG C/min from 120 DEG C, finally, carry out the temperature rise for the second time from-20 DEG C to 120 DEG C with the rate of heat addition of 5 DEG C/min.During temperature rise for the second time, measure parameter below:

Fusing point (the T of-wax _f), it is equivalent to the temperature of the highest endothermic peak of the fusion curve that observes as described above, and fusion curve representative is along with the variation of the difference of the energy absorbing of temperature,

-Δ Hf: the fusion enthalpy that is equivalent to the wax of the integration of obtained overall fusion curve.This fusion enthalpy of wax is in order to the amount from solid state change to liquid required energy by compound.It represents with J/g.

Be suitable for according to the wax of Unctuous compositions of the present invention be selected from ambient temperature for animal wax, vegetable wax, mineral wax or the synthetic wax of solid with and composition thereof.

Be applicable to wax of the present invention in order to illustrate, can especially mention chloroflo, for example: beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect wax, rice bran wax, Brazil wax, candelila wax, ouricury wax, alfa (Alfa) wax, fruit bayberry wax (berry wax), shellac wax, Japan tallow and sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microwax, paraffin and ceresine, Tissuemat E, synthesize wax and wax-like copolymer and the ester thereof of acquisition by Fisher-Tropsch.

Also can mention by thering is C ₈-C ₃₂the animal oil of aliphatic chain straight chain or side chain or the catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oil and the wax that obtains.Certainly, can mention especially isomerized Jojoba Oil, for example by DESERT WHALE with trade name Iso-Jojoba- the hydrogenation Jojoba Oil, hydrogenation sunflower oil, rilanit special, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil of the part trans-isomerism of manufacturing or sell and by HETERENE with title Hest2T- two-(trimethoxy-1,1, the 1 propane) tetrastearates of selling.

Also can mention silicone wax (C _30-45alkyl dimethyl silicone polymer) and fluoridize wax.

Also can be with by utilizing cetanol to carry out the wax that hydrogenation esterification castor oil obtains, this wax by SOPHIM with title Phytowax ricin with sell.This wax is described in application FR-A-2792190.

Can use C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxyl stearoyl-oxy) stearate (alkyl comprises 20 to 40 carbon atoms) as wax individually or using the form of mixture.

This wax especially by KOSTER KEUNEN with title " Kester Wax K82 ", " hydroxyl polyester (Hydroxypolyester) K82 " and " Kester Wax K80 " wax sold.

Preferably, described wax is selected from monocrystalline wax, acetylated lanolin, beeswax and composition thereof.

According to an embodiment of the invention, with respect to according to the gross weight of waterborne compositions of the present invention, waterborne compositions comprises 20% to 90% water by weight.

According to an embodiment, described water can be flowers water (for example corn flower water) and/or mineral water (such as the big great waves mineral water of France (Vittel water), Lucas water or La Roche-Posay (La Roche Posay water)) and/or springwater.

According to an embodiment, described Unctuous compositions comprises ethereal oil, is preferably selected from the oil of silicone ethereal oil.

Preferably, described Unctuous compositions comprises the ethereal oil that is less than by weight 30%.

According to the present invention, be suitable for being used in the volatile silicone oils silicone oil as mentioned above in Unctuous compositions.

According to the present invention, with respect to the gross weight of described Unctuous compositions, described Unctuous compositions also can comprise at least 15% oil phase by weight.

Described Unctuous compositions also can comprise at least one hydrocarbon ils in oil phase, and this at least one hydrocarbon ils can be volatile or nonvolatile.

Described Unctuous compositions also can comprise at least one vegetable oil in oil phase.

Described Unctuous compositions also can comprise at least one hydrocarbon ester in oil phase.

Described Unctuous compositions also can comprise at least one fatty alcohol or fatty acid ester in oil phase.

Described Unctuous compositions also can comprise the liquid triglycerides of at least one C18-C36 in oil phase.

Described Unctuous compositions also can comprise at least one wax in oil phase, especially chloroflo.

Term " hydrocarbon ils " refers to substantially by carbon atom and hydrogen atom, optional oxygen atom, nitrogen-atoms oil that form or that form, and not siliceous or fluorine.It can comprise alcohol groups, ester group, ether group, hydroxy-acid group, amine groups and/or amide group.

Hydrocarbon ils can be volatile or nonvolatile.

The hydrocarbon ils being suitable for use in the present invention is described above.

Preferably, hydrocarbon ils is selected from triglycerides acid of Permethyl 99A, oleyl alcohol eruciate, rose hip oil, sesame oil, lanolin oil, hydrogenation SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS SEED OIL, tridecanol trimellitate, two-bis-many acyl groups of glycerine adipate ester-2, two isooctadecanol malates, pentaerythritol tetraoctyl stearate, C18-C36 and composition thereof.

Vegetable oil is the oil obtaining from plant or seed.

Can mention especially shea butter, Sweet Almond Oil, Morocco's macadamia nut oil, pot marigold oil, Jojoba Oil, Bai Manghua seed oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, grape-kernel oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and composition thereof.

Hydrocarbon ester can especially be selected from the hydrocarbon ester with formula RCOOR ', and wherein, RCOO represents the carboxylic acid residues that comprises 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and R ' represents the hydrocarbon chain that comprises 1 to 30 carbon atom.In these esters, can mention isononyl isononanoate, oleyl alcohol eruciate, octyl group-2-dodecyl pivalate and isopropyl myristate.

Preferably, hydrocarbon ester is selected from isopropyl palmitate, oleyl alcohol eruciate, lauric acid hexyl ester, two isooctadecanol malates and composition thereof.

The fatty alcohol of the side chain of C24-C28 or fatty acid ester, such as fatty alcohol or the fatty acid ester of the side chain of the C24-C28 of description in application EP-A-0 955 039, especially citric acid three Isoeicosane alcohol esters (triisoarachidyl citrate) (MW=1033.76g/mol), the different pelargonate of pentaerythrite four (MW=697.05g/mol), glycerine three isostearates (MW=891.51g/mol), glycerine three decyl-2 myristinates (MW=1143.98g/mol), pentaerythritol tetraoctyl stearate (MW=1202.02g/mol), polyglycereol-2 tetraoctyl stearate (MW=1232.04g/mol) or pentaerythrite four decyl-2 myristinates (MW=1538.66g/mol).

Preferably, fatty alcohol or fatty acid ester are pentaerythritol tetraoctyl stearate.

Triglycerides (being also known as triacylglycerol or triglyceride or TAG) is such glyceride: wherein, three hydroxyls of glycerine are esterified by aliphatic acid.

Preferably, the liquid triglycerides that selected triglycerides is C18-C36.

Unctuous compositions also can comprise lipophilicity gelling agent or thickener.Be suitable for lipophilicity gelling agent used according to the invention described above.

Preferably, Unctuous compositions comprises at least one lipophilicity gelling agent, and this at least one lipophilicity gelling agent is selected from distearyl dimethylammonium hectorite, dimetylsilyl SiClx stone, dextrin palmitate, polyvinyl alcohol laurate, stearic acid allyl ester and vinyl acetate co-polymer and composition thereof.

Can comprise silicone and/or silicone derivative according to composition of the present invention (1) and composition (2), the silicone oil in preferred benzene generation, for example phenyl dimethyl silicone polymer.

According to an embodiment, with respect to the gross weight of composition (1), composition (1) comprises 25% to 35% silicone compounds by weight.

In these silicone derivatives, can mention the non-volatile silicone oil in non-benzene generation mentioned above.

Preferably, as silicone and silicone derivative, composition (1) and composition (2) can comprise trimethyl pentaphene base trisiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy group phenyl dimethyl silicone polymer, trimethylsiloxy group esters of silicon acis, nylon-6 11 and polydimethylsiloxanecopolymer copolymer, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, cetyl-PEG/PPG dimethyl silicone polymer, KF6017, dimethyl silicone polymer and composition thereof.

paste fat

According to the present invention, at least one composition in composition (1) and composition (2) comprises at least one paste fat.

For purposes of the present invention, term " paste fat " refers to have the lipophilicity fatty compound that reversible liquid/solid changes, and at the temperature of 23 DEG C, comprises liquid part and solid portion.

In other words, the initial fusing point of pasty state compound can be less than 23 DEG C.The liquid part of the pasty state compound of measuring at 23 DEG C can account for 9% to 97% of compound by weight.At 23 DEG C, this liquid part preferably accounts between 15% and 85% by weight, more preferably between 40% and 85%.

Preferably, paste fat has the final fusing point that is less than 60 DEG C.

Preferably, the hardness of paste fat is less than or equal to 6MPa.

Preferably, paste fat presents by the appreciable anisotropy crystalline structure of X-radiological survey X under solid state.

According to the present invention, fusing point is equivalent to the temperature that observes maximum endothermic peak in heat analysis (DSC) of describing as in standard ISO 11357-3 (1999).The fusing point of pastel or wax can use differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) to measure, the calorimeter of for example being sold with title " DSC Q2000 " by TA Instruments.

About determining of fusing point measurement and final fusing point, sample preparation and measurement scheme are as follows:

To previously be heated to 80 DEG C and use the sample of paste fat of the 5mg that also heated scoop samples under magnetic agitation to be placed in the aluminium glue capsule or crucible of sealing.Carry out testing for twice to guarantee the repeatability of result.

Measure based on above-mentioned calorimeter.Baking box is carried out to nitrogen blowing.Undertaken cooling by RCS90 heat exchanger.Then make sample carry out following scheme: after stable at the temperature of 20 DEG C, carry out the temperature rise for the first time from 20 DEG C to 80 DEG C with the rates of heat addition of 5 DEG C/min, then carry out being cooled to-80 DEG C from 80 DEG C with the cooldown rate of 5 DEG C/min, finally carry out the temperature rise for the second time from-80 DEG C to 80 DEG C with the rate of heat addition of 5 DEG C/min.During temperature rise for the second time, measure the difference of the energy being absorbed by empty crucible and the crucible that contains pasty state sample or wax-like sample along with the variation of temperature.The value of the temperature that the peak of the peak value of the curve of the variation of the difference that the fusing point of compound is the energy that absorbs along with temperature with representative is suitable.

Temperature when final fusing point is equivalent to 95% sample fusing.

By weight, at 23 DEG C, the liquid part of described pasty state compound equals the ratio of the fusion enthalpy that consumes at the 23 DEG C fusion enthalpy to pasty state compound.

The enthalpy that the fusion enthalpy of pasty state compound consumes from solid state change to liquid state for this compound.When the all-mass of pasty state compound is during in solid crystallization way, this pasty state compound is known as in solid state.When the all-mass of pasty state compound is during in liquid form, this pasty state compound is known as in liquid state.

The fusion enthalpy of pasty state compound equals: according to ISO11357-3:1999 standard, the in the situation that of 5 DEG C of temperature risings per minute or 10 DEG C, use the integration of whole fusion curves that above-mentioned calorimeter obtains.The fusion enthalpy of described pasty state compound is the amount of this compound required energy from solid state change to liquid state.It represents with J/g.

The amount of the required energy of the fusion enthalpy consuming at the 23 DEG C state that to be sample be made up of liquid part and solid portion from solid state change to 23 DEG C.

The liquid part of the pasty state compound of measuring at 32 DEG C by weight, preferably accounts for 30% to 100%, preferably 50% to 100%, more preferably 60% to 100% of compound.If the liquid part of the pasty state compound of measuring at 32 DEG C equals 100%, the temperature of the end points of the fusion range of pasty state compound is less than or equal to 32 DEG C.

The liquid part of the pasty state compound at 32 DEG C equals at 32 DEG C the ratio of the fusion enthalpy that the consumes fusion enthalpy to pasty state compound.The fusion enthalpy consuming at 32 DEG C and the same calculating of fusion enthalpy consuming at 23 DEG C.

For hardness measurement, sample preparation and measurement scheme are as follows:

Paste fat is placed in the mould of diameter 75mm, and this mould is filled to about 75% of its height.In order not experience thermal history and crystallization control, mould is placed on vC0018 is program-controlled indoor, wherein, first it be set to the temperature of 80 DEG C, continue 60 minutes, then be cooled to 0 DEG C with the cooldown rate of 5 DEG C/min from 80 DEG C, then under the equilibrium temperature of 0 DEG C, continue 60 minutes, then rise to the temperature of 20 DEG C with the rate of heat addition of 5 DEG C/min from 0 DEG C, under the equilibrium temperature of 20 DEG C, continue 180 minutes.

Utilize Swantech TA/TX2i matter structure instrument to carry out compression stress measurement.According to quality, select the moving body using:

-for the unusual raw material of rigidity, select the cylindrical steel moving body of diameter 2mm;

-for non-rigid raw material, select the cylindrical steel moving body of diameter 12mm.

Measurement comprises 3 steps: the first step behind the surface of automatically detecting sample, in this first step, moving body moves on this surface with the measuring speed of 0.1mm/s, then enters paste fat, penetration depth is 0.3mm, the maximal force that software records reaches; Second " release " step, wherein, moving body keeps one second in this position, wherein after discharging 1 second, records power; Finally, the 3rd " withdrawal " step, wherein, moving body is back to its initial position with the speed of 1mm/s, records probe and regains energy (negative power).

The hardness number of measuring in first step be equivalent to the measured maximum compression of newton divided by contact with paste fat with mm ²the cylindrical surface area of matter structure instrument representing.The hardness number obtaining represents with MPa or MPa.

Pasty state compound is selected from synthetic compound and the compound based on plant.Pasty state compound can being synthesized into by the starting material from based on plant.

Advantageously, pasty state compound is selected from:

-lanolin and derivative thereof,

-polyalcohol ether, its be selected from pentaerythrite ether and poly-alkane glycol, fatty alcohol and sugar ether, and composition thereof, the pentaerythrite ether that comprises 5 oxyethylation unit (5OE) and polyethylene glycol (CTFA title: PEG-5 pentaerythrite ether), the pentaerythrite that comprises 5 oxypropylation unit (5OP) and polypropylene glycol ether (CTFA title: PPG-5 pentaerythrite ether), and composition thereof, especially the PEG-5 pentaerythrite ether of being sold with title " Lanolide " by Vevy, the mixture of PPG-5 pentaerythrite ether and soybean oil, wherein, the ratio of described component is the PEG-5 pentaerythrite ether of 46:46:8:46% by weight, 46% PPG-5 pentaerythrite ether and 8% soybean.

-alternatively, the silicone compounds of polymerization,

-alternatively, the compound of fluoridizing of polymerization,

-polyvinyl, especially:

● olefin homo and olefin copolymer,

● the diene homopolymers of hydrogenation and the diene copolymers of hydrogenation,

● oligomer straight chain or side chain, alkyl (methyl) Voncoat R 3310 of alkyl or alkyl (methyl) acrylate copolymer, preferably have C ₈-C ₃₀alkyl,

● vinyl ester homopolymer oligomer and vinyl ester copolymer oligomer, have C ₈-C ₃₀alkyl,

● vinyl ethers homopolymers oligomer and vinyl ether co-polymer oligomer, have C ₈-C ₃₀alkyl,

-by one or more C2-C100, fat-soluble polyethers that preferably the poly-etherification reaction between the glycol of C2-C50 obtains,

-ester,

-and/or its mixture.

In the middle of these fat-soluble polyethers, there is the ethene-oxide of C6-C30 long-chain alkylene oxide and/or the copolymer of propylene oxide is particularly preferred, more preferably, making to have the ethene-oxide of alkylene oxide and/or the weight ratio of propylene-oxide in copolymer is 5:95 to 70:30.In this series, can mention especially copolymer, such as taking mean molecule quantity as 1000 to 10, the long-chain alkylene oxide that 000 block is arranged, for example polyoxyethylene/poly-dodecyl glycol block copolymer, such as dodecanediol (22mol) and polyethylene glycol (45OE) ether sold with trade (brand) name ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel.

In these esters, particularly preferably:

-glycerin oligomer ester, i.e. two glyceride, especially the condensation product of adipic acid and glycerine, for this condensation product, a part in the hydroxyl of glycerine is reacted with the mixture of aliphatic acid, aliphatic acid is such as being stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxy stearic acid, especially those by Sasol the product with the sale of trade mark Softisan649

-by Alzo with trade mark Waxenol801 sell arachidic alcohol propionic ester,

-phytosterin ester,

The triglycerides of-aliphatic acid and derivative thereof, for example, the partly or entirely especially C of hydrogenation ₁₀-C ₁₈fatty acid triglycercide, as those by Sasol with numbering Softisan100 sell product,

-pentaerythritol ester,

-by dicarboxylic acids or C ₄-C ₅₀the carboxylic acid of straight or branched and glycol or C ₂-C ₅₀polycondensation between polyalcohol and the noncrosslinking polyester that obtains,

The esterification of-aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and aliphatic carboxylic acid and the aliphatic ester of the ester that obtains.Preferably, aliphatic carboxylic acid comprise 4 to 30,8 to 30 carbon atoms preferably.It is preferably selected from caproic acid, enanthic acid, sad, ethyl-2 caproic acid, n-nonanoic acid, capric acid, hendecanoic acid, dodecylic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, Heptadecanoic acide, octadecanoid acid, isostearic acid, nonadecylic acid, arachic acid, Isoeicosane acid, octyl group dodecylic acid, heneicosanoic acid, docosoic acid, and composition thereof.Aliphatic carboxylic acid preferably has side chain.Advantageously, aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid esters by comprise 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 34 carbon atoms, more preferably 12 to 28 carbon atoms and 1 to 20 hydroxyl, preferably 1 to 10 hydroxyl, more preferably the hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid of 1 to 6 hydroxyl obtains.Aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid esters is selected from:

A) the monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylate of partly or entirely saturated straight chain;

B) the monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylate of part or all of undersaturated straight chain;

C) the aliphatic multi-carboxylate of partly or entirely saturated non-hydroxylated;

D) part or all of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic multi-carboxylate;

E) part or whole C ₂to C ₁₆aliphatic polyol ester, itself and monohydroxylated or polyhydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acid or polybasic carboxylic acid, and composition thereof react.

Two polyalcohols and dimer diacid ester, by acidic group or alcohol radical, its alcohol or free acid functional group are carried out to esterification alternatively, especially dimer dilinoleic acid ester, this ester can especially be selected from the ester with following INCI classification: the sub-oleyl alcohol dimerized linoleic acid ester of two-docosyl alcohol/isooctadecanol/phytosterol dimerization (Plandool G), phytosterol/isooctadecanol/cetanol/stearyl alcohol/docosyl alcohol dimerized linoleic acid ester (Plandool H or Plandool S) and composition thereof.

The rosinate of-hydrogenation, for example rosinate (from Lusplan DD-DHR or the DD-DHR of Nippon Fine Chemical) of the sub-oleyl alcohol hydrogenation of dimerization,

-and composition thereof.

Can comprise and be selected from the triglycerides of aliphatic acid and at least one paste fat of derivative thereof according to composition of the present invention (1) and composition (2), preferably be selected from the example of the fatty acid triglycercide of partially or completely hydrogenation, especially C ₁₀-C ₁₈fatty acid triglycercide, as those fatty acid triglycercides of being sold with numbering Softisan100 by Sasol.

Preferably, paste fat is selected from lanolin and derivative thereof, and glycerin oligomer ester, as two-bis-many acyl groups of glycerine adipate ester-2.

Described composition (1) and/or composition (2) also can comprise at least one surfactant.

Described composition (1) and/or composition (2) also can comprise at least one anticorrisive agent.

Described composition (1) and/or composition (2) also can comprise at least one filler.

Described composition (1) and/or composition (2) also can comprise at least one polymer.

Described composition (1) and/or composition (2) can comprise one or more essence and/or vitamin.

Described composition (1) and/or composition (2) also can comprise at least one activating agent.

It is both sexes, anionic, cationic or nonionic that described surfactant can be, and can be used alone or use with the form of mixture.

As the example of hydrocarbon surfactant, can mention polyol polyester, the polyglycereol-2 two multi-hydroxy stearic acid ester of selling with numbering DEHYMULS PGPH as the poly-PEG-30 bis-multi-hydroxy stearic acid esters of being sold with numbering ARLACEL P135 by Uniqema, by Cognis.

As the example of silicone surfactant, can mention alkyl-dimethicone copolyol, the Abil EM 90 of selling with title ABIL EM90 as the lauryl methyl polysiloxanes copolyol of being sold with title " Dow Corning5200Formulation Aid " by Dow Corning and by Goldschmidt, or polyglycereol-4 isostearate/Abil EM 90/lauric acid hexyl ester mixture of being sold with title ABIL WE09 by Goldschmidt.

Also can add one or more assistant for emulsifying agents.Advantageously, the polyol ester of the optional self-alkylation of this assistant for emulsifying agent.As the example of alkylating polyol ester, can especially mention: glycerine and/or sorbitan ester; And polyglycereol-3 diisopstearate of for example being sold with title LAMEFORM TGI by Cognis; Polyglycereol-4 isostearate, the product that for example Goldschmidt sells with title Isolan GI34; The different stearyl ester of anhydrous sorbitol, as the product of being sold with title Arlacel987 by ICI; Sorbitan and iso stearic acid of glycerine ester, as the product of being sold with title Arlacel986 by ICI; And composition thereof.

Especially be selected from PPG-5 lanolin wax, C according to surfactant of the present invention ₃₀-C ₅₀alcohol, sorbitan stearate, coconut palm acid sucrose (sucrose cocoate) and/or polyglycereol-4-isostearate.

According to an embodiment, composition (1) and composition (2) can comprise anticorrisive agent, and anticorrisive agent is especially selected from two azo alkyl (diazodinyl) ureas, Phenoxyethanol, sodium dehydroacetate and nipalgin.

According to one preferred embodiment, at least one composition in composition (1) or composition (2) comprises at least one filler as delustering agent, with respect to the gross weight of composition (1), filler is preferably 0.1% to 30% by weight.

According to another preferred embodiment, at least one composition in composition (1) or composition (2) comprises at least one filler as delustering agent, with respect to the gross weight of composition (2), filler is preferably 0.1% to 30% by weight.

Term " filler " refers to inorganic particle or the synthetic particle of arbitrary shape, and it is insoluble in the medium of composition, and temperature while preparing with said composition is irrelevant.These fillers can be particularly useful for changing rheology or the quality of composition.

Filler can be the inorganic or organic particle of arbitrary shape, sheet, spherical or oval-shaped shape, and for example, with the shape of crystallization (, sheet, cuboidal, hexagonal, rhombic shape etc.) irrelevant.Can mention talcum, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide ( ) (from Atochem's ), poly--Beta-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powder ( ), the hollow microsphere of lauroyl lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymerization, for example as the microballoon of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile that (Nobel Industrie) is the same, acrylic copolymer is (from Dow Corning's ) and silicone resin microballon (for example, from Toshiba's ), elastomer organo-polysilane granules, winnofil, magnesium carbonate and bicarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microsphere be (from the Silica of Maprecos ), the microcapsules of glass or pottery, for example, by thering is 8 to 22 carbon atoms, metallic soap (zinc stearate, dolomol or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate) that preferably organic carboxyl acid of 12 to 18 carbon atoms obtains.

Also can comprise at least one gelling/structuring polymer according to composition of the present invention (1) or composition (2), this gelling/structuring polymer is selected from xanthans, cellulose gum, carbomer, polyvinyl alcohol laurate, stearic acid allyl ester and vinyl acetate co-polymer, dextrin palmitate, polybutene, ethyl cellulose and HPG, Methyl metacrylate 99 polymer.

Can especially adopt the form of liquid, gel, creme or paste according to composition of the present invention (1) or composition (2).

Preferably, according to composition rapid draing of the present invention.

Preferably, according to composition quick-drying of the present invention, be included in the quick-drying volatile solvent in the thin layer on the 10 μ m thickness of smearing, the viscosity of this solvent is in 5 minutes, to expand 4 times.For this reason, it can comprise boiling point <160 DEG C and/or be selected from the compound of volatile linear paraffin, for example C11-C13 compound, Permethyl 99A, C2-C4 unit alcohol (as ethanol) and composition thereof.

Cosmetics according to the present invention are preferably used for being applied on user's lip by cosmetic applicator.

Described applicator is below being described with figure.

This applicator comprises the surface of smearing for holding cosmetics.

According to an embodiment, this applicator comprise have central area 22 and object-line 24 smear surface 16, the profile of the profile of this object-line and people's lip is similar, central area 22 and object-line 24 are for holding cosmetics.

Brief description of the drawings

-Fig. 1 is the front view according to cosmetic applicator of the present invention;

-Fig. 2 is according to the cutaway view of the cross section II of Fig. 1;

-Fig. 3 is the front view of lip 55, and the cosmetic applicator according to the present invention with the color pattern 60 different from spreading upon color in other parts of lip according to the present invention is smeared on lip 55.

Detailed description of the invention

Shown in Fig. 1 and Fig. 2 according to specific cosmetic applicator 10 of the present invention.This applicator 10 for according to the profile of lip by cosmetic applying the lip to user.

According to an embodiment, applicator 10 comprises main body 14, and it is defined for cosmetic applying to the surface 16 on lip.Surface 16 is advantageously limited in the chamber 18 of main body 16, wherein the shape complementarity of the shape on surface 16 and user's lip.

As shown in Figure 1, smear central area 22 and object-line 24 that surface 16 preferably includes hollow, the profile of form fit people's lip of this object-line.

According to an embodiment, object-line 24 be equipped with preferred parts 26 in order to by cosmetic applying to user's lip.

Once applicator 10 has been filled with cosmetics, user makes to smear surface 16 contact lips.For this reason, user is inserted in lip respectively in concave shaped space 28A, concave shaped space 28B.

According to another object, the present invention relates to a kind of applicator 10 with at least one cosmetics on user's lip, the type of applicator is: it comprise smears surface 16, this is smeared surperficial shape and is similar to people's lip shape, described in smear surface for holding cosmetics.

Described cosmetics comprise:

-at least one composition (2) of separating with composition (1), it comprises physiologically acceptable medium, described composition (2) is:

Or, Unctuous compositions, with respect to the gross weight of described Unctuous compositions, it comprises the water that is less than by weight 5%.

Above-mentioned cosmetics are as above limited.

Preferred embodiment the surface of smearing of this applicator 16 has central area 22 and object-line 24 according to one, and the profile of this object-line 24 is similar to the profile of user's lip 22, and object-line 24 is for holding cosmetics.

According to an embodiment, a kind of composition in two kinds of compositions (1) or composition (2) is positioned at smears surperficial central area, and another composition is positioned at and smears on surperficial object-line.

According to another embodiment, smear surface can have separate by film or there is different surface-treated compartments.

If compartment tunicle is separately, described film directly molding of quilt during the molding of applicator.

Have independently compartment if smear surface, these compartments are characterised in that different surface treatments, and this has different capillary coatings by deposition in applicator surface and obtains.These coatings can for example be selected from:

-hydrophilic surface, for example metal surface.For example, be reduced into the slaine of its natural metallic forms, or the surface for example, being formed by hydrophilic polymer (acrylic copolymer);

-hydrophobic surface, for example, be coated with the surface of hydrophobic polymer (for example reactive silicone).

According to another embodiment, applicator smear mouth or the hole that surface can comprise that multiple and one or more cosmetics containers are communicated with.

Then,, by contact, by produce trace on user's lip, carry out deposition composition.In conjunction with the formula rule of following, this can obtain opposing and besmirch and resist the lip color and the outward appearance that change along with the time.

Term " besmirches " and refers to that upper lip is together with lower lip slight compression, thereby makes the amount of the cosmetics that deposit even thereon.

Smearing after cosmetics, can produce and besmirch immediately.

According to an embodiment, cosmetics manually or by suitable dauber are spread upon and are smeared on surface.

Dauber can comprise one or more compartments that are suitable for simultaneously or distribute waterborne compositions and/or Unctuous compositions in two stages, preferably one or two compartment.

According to a specific embodiment, dauber can comprise multiple compartments and for selecting the parts of a kind of on applicator to be deposited over and/or two kinds of waterborne compositions and/or Unctuous compositions.

According to another embodiment, applicator comprises one or more containers that comprise one or more waterborne compositions and/or Unctuous compositions.Preferably, this applicator comprises two containers, and each container comprises a kind of composition, and a container comprises waterborne compositions, and another container comprises Unctuous compositions.

Preferably, container is flexible, and by discharging composition by pressure vessel, thereby for example smears lip-deep hole and discharge and can be applied to lip from appearing at.

According to another embodiment, applicator comprises one or more compositions, two kinds of compositions preferably.Composition does not have or is not almost deposited on and smears on surface.By extra stimulation, such as moisture liquid or the organic liquid of application or by applying heat, composition can be applied on described lip in the situation that contacting with lip.

According to a specific embodiment, waterborne compositions and/or Unctuous compositions can be liquid form.

Therefore, can utilize brush, cotton swab or finger that the composition to lip to be applied is applied to and smears surface above, then make applicator contact with lip, apply less pressure and make composition be applied on lip and remove applicator.

In the case of applicator have with holes smear surperficial, composition can be comprised in the container of one or more flexibilities at the rear portion that is arranged in applicator.By pressing pressure vessel, composition can be released on the surface of applicator.

According to a specific embodiment, waterborne compositions and/or Unctuous compositions can be bar form.

In this case, composition can be applied to by rubbing smearing on surface of applicator.

Have under the particular case surperficial with smearing of hole at applicator, rod can be positioned in the rear end of applicator.Applicator can be heated so that bar composition is varied to liquid form, and then realizes surface by rotary bar and extrude.

According to a specific embodiment, waterborne compositions and/or Unctuous compositions can be paste form.

Under having with the porose particular case of smearing surperficial applicator, composition can be accommodated in syringe and by pressing syringe plunger towards applicator surface and mechanically being extruded.

The invention still further relates to the cosmetic use of the non-treatment of making up for lip of cosmetic container described above and applicator.

The cosmetic treatment lip cosmetic method that the invention still further relates to a kind of non-treatment, comprising:

-provide according to box of the present invention,

-by composition (1) and composition (2) be applied to applicator smear surface upper (described surface have alternatively separate by film or there is different surface-treated compartments),

-will smear surface applications on user's lip,

-two kinds of compositions are applied on user's lip.

The cosmetic treatments lip cosmetic method that the invention still further relates to a kind of non-treatment, comprising:

-provide according to applicator of the present invention, and

-described applicator smeared to surface applications on user's lip.

Unexpectedly, inventor creates: in order successfully to obtain two kinds of tones or different appearance effect, must follow accurate formula rule.

In fact, shift, besmirch and temporal evolution in order to ensure the cosmetic opposing obtaining from the present invention, must make-up composition accurately be combined according to some formula rule.

These formula rules have been shown in embodiment below:

embodiment

Use for field personnel's of the present invention standard step and be prepared according to composition of the present invention (1) and composition (2).

Then, use cotton swab or brush, various composition pairings are applied on applicator mentioned above.

Then, immediately applicator is placed on user's lip.

record two performances:

● the transfer of two kinds of colors:

Term " transfer " refers to two kinds of compositions to be applied on user's lip.

Cause blend of colors if shifted, shifting is poor (being called hereinafter " poor transfer ").

In the time that color is unmixed, transfer is good (being called hereinafter " good transfer ").

● besmirch:

After besmirching, if blend of colors, result is not satisfied (being called hereinafter " poor besmirch resistance ").

After besmirching, if color is unmixed, result is gratifying (being called hereinafter " good besmirch resistance ").

Embodiment 1:

Preparation two kinds of compositions (1) and composition (2) below:

Waterborne compositions is below used as composition (2):

Waterborne compositions 2

(aqueous gel)

Viscosity: according to above-described measurement scheme, 0.34Pas.

W/O emulsion is below used for composition (1):

Viscosity: according to above-described measurement scheme 0.5Pas.

By two kinds of compositions mentioned above are applied on applicator, and on lip, use described applicator, obtain good transfer and the extraordinary resistance that besmirches.

embodiment 2:

Preparation two kinds of compositions (1) and composition (2) below:

Unctuous compositions (rod) is below used as composition (2):

Heated so that the viscosity >50Pas of the measurable this bar composition of this quality previously.

Use conventional scheme to make this rod.

First, by Pigments in a part of wax and oil.

Remaining liposoluble constituent and wax are mixed at the temperature of 100 DEG C, then add product and the remaining oil phase that contains of grinding.At the temperature of 100 DEG C, mix all material, until obtain mixture very uniformly.

Can be in mould casting said composition, to produce the excellent shape of diameter as 11.06mm.

For composition (1), use the W/O emulsion in embodiment 1.

By two kinds of compositions mentioned above are applied on applicator, and on lip, apply described applicator, obtain good transfer and the extraordinary resistance that besmirches.

embodiment 3:

Preparation two kinds of compositions (1) and composition (2) below:

Unctuous compositions is below used as composition (2):

First, by Pigments in Liquiwax and part silicone oil.

Remaining liposoluble constituent and wax are mixed at the temperature of 100 DEG C, then add product and the remaining silicone oil phase of grinding.At the temperature of 100 DEG C, mix all material, until obtain mixture very uniformly.

For composition (1), use the W/O emulsion in embodiment 1.

By two kinds of compositions mentioned above are applied on applicator, and on lip, apply described applicator, obtain good transfer and the good resistance that besmirches.

embodiment 4:

Preparation two kinds of compositions (1) and composition (2) below:

Liquid Unctuous compositions is below used as composition (2):

Unctuous compositions 4

(for the fluid composition of lip)

Viscosity: be about 12Pas according to measurement scheme mentioned above.

For composition (1), use the emulsion in embodiment 1.

embodiment 5:

Preparation two kinds of compositions (1) and composition (2) below:

Waterborne compositions is below used as composition (2):

* represent the weight of commodity.

1) moisture ethylcellulose dispersion is blended in nonvolatile oil while stirring, at 55 DEG C, heats 1 to 2 hour.

2) add surfactant, at 55 DEG C, be uniformly mixed all material until obtain uniform mixture.

3) add polyvinyl alcohol, until obtain uniform mixture, be then cooled to environment temperature.

4) then add non-volatile silicone oil, continue to stir simultaneously.

5) then add the colouring agent/pigment being first prepended in the aqueous solution.

6) last, under agitation add alcohol and Phenoxyethanol.

Viscosity: be 1.4Pas according to measurement scheme mentioned above.

For composition (1), use the emulsion in embodiment 1.

By two kinds of compositions mentioned above are applied on applicator, and on lip, apply described applicator, obtain good transfer and the fabulous resistance that besmirches.

embodiment 6:

Preparation two kinds of compositions (1) and composition (2) below:

Oiliness (anhydrous) composition is below used as composition (2):

Viscosity: be 1.6Pas according to measurement scheme mentioned above.

For composition (1), use the emulsion in embodiment 1.

embodiment 7:

Preparation two kinds of compositions (1) and composition (2) below:

For composition (2), use the waterborne compositions in embodiment 1.

For composition (1), use W/O emulsion.

Viscosity: be 0.72Pas according to measurement scheme mentioned above.

By two kinds of compositions mentioned above are applied on applicator, and on lip, apply described applicator, obtain the resistance that besmirches that good transfer becomes reconciled.

embodiment 8:

Preparation two kinds of compositions (1) and composition (2) below:

For composition (2), use the Unctuous compositions in embodiment 3.

For composition (1), use the emulsion in embodiment 7.

By two kinds of compositions mentioned above are applied on applicator, and on lip, apply described applicator, obtain fabulous transfer and the fabulous resistance that besmirches.

embodiment 9:

Preparation two kinds of compositions (1) and composition (2) below:

For composition (2), use the Unctuous compositions in embodiment 4.

For composition (1), use the emulsion in embodiment 7.

embodiment 10:

Preparation two kinds of compositions (1) and composition (2) below:

For composition (2), use the waterborne compositions in embodiment 5.

For composition (1), use the emulsion in embodiment 7.

embodiment 11:

Preparation two kinds of compositions (1) and composition (2) below:

For composition (2), use the Unctuous compositions in embodiment 6.

For composition (1), use the emulsion in embodiment 7.

Therefore,, according to the present invention, the composition (1) that observes the form of w/o type oil emu shifts and besmirches resistance aspect with being combined in of water-based or Unctuous compositions (2) and can obtain gratifying result.

embodiment 12:(comparison: the combination of two kinds of solid oily compositions)

For composition (1), use oiliness (rod) composition in embodiment 2.

For composition (2), use oiliness (rod) composition in embodiment 3.

By two kinds of compositions mentioned above are applied on applicator, and on lip, apply described applicator, obtain the resistance that besmirches of poor transfer and difference.

embodiment 13:(comparison: the combination of two kinds of solid/liquid Unctuous compositions)

For composition (1), use oiliness (rod) composition in embodiment 3.

For composition (2), use oiliness (liquid) composition in embodiment 4.

embodiment 14:(comparison: the combination of two kinds of liquid Unctuous compositions)

For composition (1), use oiliness (rod) composition in embodiment 2.

For composition (2), use oiliness (liquid) composition in embodiment 6.

These results confirm, the result that combination Unctuous compositions can not obtain looking for.

Claims

1. a cosmetic container, comprising:

The applicator (10) of at least one cosmetics on-user's lip, the applicator of the type comprises that shape and people's lip shape similarly smear surface (16), described in smear surface for holding cosmetics, and

-described cosmetics comprise:

The composition (1) of-at least one water-in-oil emulsion form, described composition (1) comprises physiologically acceptable medium; With

-at least one composition (2) of separating with described composition (1), described at least one composition (2) comprises physiologically acceptable medium, described composition (2) is:

● waterborne compositions, with respect to the gross weight of described waterborne compositions, described waterborne compositions comprises at least 20% water by weight,

● or Unctuous compositions, with respect to the gross weight of described Unctuous compositions, described Unctuous compositions comprises the water that is less than by weight 5%.

2. cosmetic container according to claim 1, wherein, with respect to the gross weight of described composition (1), the water content of described composition (1) is 20% to 60%, preferably 20% to 40% by weight.

3. cosmetic container according to claim 1 and 2, wherein, described composition (1) and the viscosity of described composition (2) in the time of 20 DEG C are greater than 0.3Pas.

4. according to the cosmetic container described in any one in claims 1 to 3; wherein, at least one composition in described composition (1) or described composition (2) comprises at least one dyestuff, is especially selected from least one dyestuff of pigment, colouring agent, reflective particles or its mixture.

5. according to the cosmetic container described in any one in claim 1 to 4, wherein, described composition (1) comprises at least one ethereal oil, is especially selected from least one ethereal oil of volatility hydrocarbon ils and volatile silicone oils or its mixture.

6. according to the cosmetic container described in any one in claim 1 to 5, wherein, described composition (2) comprises at least one nonvolatile oil, is especially selected from least one nonvolatile oil of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil and non-volatile silicone oil or its mixture.

7. according to the cosmetic container described in any one in claim 1 to 6, wherein, described Unctuous compositions comprises at least one hard fat, and with respect to the gross weight of described composition, the content of described at least one hard fat is less than or equal to 30% by weight.

8. according to the cosmetic container described in any one in claim 1 to 7, wherein, described composition (1) and described composition (2) comprise respectively at least one dyestuff, and the dyestuff of described composition (1) is different from the dyestuff of described composition (2).

9. according to the cosmetic container described in any one in claim 1 to 7, wherein, in described composition (1) or described composition (2), only have a kind of composition to comprise at least one dyestuff, another kind of composition does not comprise any dyestuff.

10. according to the cosmetic container described in any one in claim 1 to 9, wherein, at least one composition in described composition (1) or described composition (2) comprises at least one filler as delustering agent, preferably, with respect to the gross weight meter of described composition, described filler is 0.1% to 30% by weight.

11. according to the cosmetic container described in any one in claim 1 to 10, wherein, the surface (16) of smearing of described applicator has central area (22) and object-line (24), the profile of the profile of described object-line and people's lip is similar, and described central area (22) and described object-line (24) are for holding described cosmetics.

The applicator (10) of at least one cosmetics on 12. 1 kinds of user's lips, the applicator of the type comprises smears surface (16), described shape of smearing surperficial shape and people's lip is similar, described in smear surface for holding cosmetics

Described cosmetics comprise:

The composition (1) of-at least one water-in-oil emulsion form, described composition comprises physiologically acceptable medium; With

-at least one composition (2) of separating with described composition (1), described composition (2) comprises physiologically acceptable medium, described composition (2) is:

13. applicators according to claim 11, wherein, the described surface (16) of smearing has central area (22) and object-line (24), the profile of the profile of described object-line and people's lip is similar, and described central area (22) and described object-line (24) are for holding described cosmetics.

14. according to the cosmetic container described in any one in claim 1 to 10 or according to claim 11 to the non-treatment beautifying use of making up for lip of the applicator described in any one in 13.

The 15. non-treatment cosmetic treatment methods of making up for lip, comprising:

-provide according to the cosmetic container described in any one in claim 1 to 10;

-by described composition (1) and described composition (2) be applied to described applicator to smear surface upper, described in smear surface and there is alternatively tunicle and separate or there is different surface-treated compartments, and

-by the described surface applications of smearing to user's lip,

-two kinds of compositions are applied on described user's lip.