CN103841949A - Personal compositions with silicone emulsifier-free natural emulsifier system - Google Patents

Personal compositions with silicone emulsifier-free natural emulsifier system Download PDF

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Publication number
CN103841949A
CN103841949A CN201280048304.4A CN201280048304A CN103841949A CN 103841949 A CN103841949 A CN 103841949A CN 201280048304 A CN201280048304 A CN 201280048304A CN 103841949 A CN103841949 A CN 103841949A
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Prior art keywords
sucrose
approximately
personal care
activating agent
care composition
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Chinese (zh)
Inventor
凯瑟琳·黎·范
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ELC Management LLC
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ELC Management LLC
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/04—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q3/00—Manicure or pedicure preparations
    • A61Q3/02—Nail coatings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q9/00—Preparations for removing hair or for aiding hair removal
    • A61Q9/02—Shaving preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/10—General cosmetic use
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/34—Free of silicones

Abstract

The present invention relates to a personal care composition comprising at least one sucrose fatty acid ester and at least one nonionic surfactant, wherein the composition is substantially free of silicone emulsifiers. The personal care compositions are particularly suitable for conditioning and moisturization applications.

Description

There is the individual compositions that does not contain the naturally occurring emulsifying agent system of silicone emulsifier
the cross reference of related application
The application's case advocate that JIUYUE in 2011 files an application on the 30th the 61/541st, the priority of No. 747 U.S. Provisional Application cases.
Technical field
The present invention relates to the personal care composition that comprises oil-water emulsifiers system.Described emulsifier system can be realized the low index of soaping in not containing the personal care composition of silicone emulsifier.
Background technology
Volatile silicone and dimethicone are used for personal nursing and cosmetic applications as supporting agent or diluent widely.Its enhancing is sprawled and lubricity, can not make skin have ice-cold or sensation of pricking rapidly, and it leaves joyful dry and smooth sensation from skin evaporation.Its lubricated spray valve and roller applicator, guarantee that cementitious compositions is smooth to sprawl, and prevent from during applying, soaping and turning white.Therefore, silicone traditionally for personal care composition so that one or more above-mentioned benefits to be provided.
Consumer need to be easy to be applied to the personal care composition of skin and not like forming the compositions of dry or membranaceous residue.For designing the product with high spreadability, preferred low composite viscosity.In addition, consumer more and more recognizes the safety of composition used in its cosmetic product.In particular, the use of silicone and silicone base product has caused the negative concern of media.In many commercially available cosmetics and personal nursing dispersion liquid, allotment person depends on gradually silicone and its derivant is used as to main supporting agent, wetting agent or coating agent.But although silicone and its derivant have been widely used many years in cosmetics, it suffers the query about its safety and environmental effect again.For this situation, silicone and its derivant may no longer get consumer reception, if continue to provide cosmetics and the personal care product based on dispersion liquid, need so allotment person to find suitable substitute.Therefore, need in the industry even in not containing the composite of silicone emulsifier, also to keep stable and the low composite of soaping.
Summary of the invention
The present invention relates to personal care composition, it comprises oil-water emulsifiers system, and it comprises at least one sucrose fatty acid ester and at least one nonionic surfactant, and described system is not in fact containing silicone emulsifier.
Detailed description of the invention
Although this description, to specifically note and clearly to advocate claims ending of the present invention, is believed according to following explanation and will be understood better the present invention.
Except as otherwise noted, otherwise all gross weights based on the present composition of all percent, umber and ratio.All this type of weight all based on active ingredient level, and therefore except as otherwise noted, otherwise does not comprise solvent or the by-product that in commercially available material, may comprise in the time that it has about listed composition.Term " percetage by weight " can be expressed as " wt.% " in this article.
Except as otherwise noted, otherwise all molecular weight used herein are weight average molecular weight, are expressed as gram/mol.
In this article, " comprise " and refer to add and do not affect other step of final result and other composition.This term contain term " by ... composition " and " substantially by ... form ".The compositions and methods of the invention/technique can comprise described fundamental of the present invention and restriction and extra or optional composition as herein described, component, step or restriction herein, consisting of with consisting essentially of.
As used herein, term " oil-soluble " refers in material oil-soluble.In general, material should be at 25 DEG C with at least 0.1 % by weight of oil solvent, preferably at least 1%, more preferably at least 5%, most preferably at least 15% concentration is solvable.
As used herein, term " oil is insoluble " refers to that material is insoluble in oil.Therefore, compound is not miscible with oil.
As used herein, term " polymer " " no matter be the material that makes or make by the monomer polymerization of two kinds (, copolymers) or two or more types by the monomer polymerization of a type by comprising.
As used herein, term " personal care composition " refer to intend the local compositions that is applied to skin or hair and given row except those mainly for other apply (for example hard surface cleaning, fabric or laundry clean and do not intend to be mainly used in part be applied to hair or skin similar other apply) compositions.The example of personal care composition of the present invention can include, but is not limited to lotion, without sun suntan, sun-proof lotion, anti-perspirant, deodorizer, shaving cream, facial cream, colour cosmetic, lip pomade, mascara, rouge, vanishing cream, fingernail wet goods.Also suitable is to rinse compositions, for example shampoo, conditioning shampoo, bath oil, moisturizing bath oil, bath gel, facial milk cleanser, clean breast, clean bath oil (hair and body wash), the health emollient cream (in shower body moisturizer), house pet shampoo, shaving preparation and the cleaning combination using together with disposable clean cloth that in shower, use.
As used herein, term " silicone emulsifier " refers to the composition based on silicone, its object for suspending or disperseing other component of personal care composition.As defined herein, silicone emulsifier does not specifically comprise that it does not intend the composition based on silicone of emulsification composition as emollient, opacifier, microgranule etc.
As used herein, term " solids " refers to the not particle for liquid or gas.
As used herein, except as otherwise noted, be less than approximately 5%, be preferably less than approximately 3%, be more preferably less than approximately 1% and be most preferably less than approximately 0.1% described composition otherwise phrase " in fact not containing " refers to that compositions comprises.As used herein, term " not containing " refers to that compositions comprises 0% described composition, not that is to say and do not add described composition to compositions, but these compositions can be by way of parenthesis forms as by-product or the product of other composition of compositions.
As used herein, term " water solublity " refers to that in the water of polymer in the present composition be soluble.In general, polymer should be at 25 DEG C with at least 0.1 % by weight of aqueous solvent, preferably at least 1%, more preferably at least 5%, most preferably at least 15% concentration is solvable.
As used herein, term " water-insoluble " refers in the water of compound in the present composition soluble.Therefore, compound is not miscible with water.
Personal care composition
The O/w emulsion that personal care composition of the present invention comprises continuous water and discontinuous oil phase.Suitable emulsion can have the viscosity in wide region, and this depends on required product form.In certain embodiments, the viscosity of personal care composition can be approximately 1, and 000cps (centipoise) arrives approximately 1,000,000cps, or approximately 5,000cps arrives approximately 500,000cps, or approximately 10,000cps arrives approximately 200,000cps or approximately 15, and 000cps arrives approximately 75,000cps.For instance, viscosity can be measured in the upper heliocentric orbit (heliopath) that uses T-C word rotating shaft utilization to be set as 5rpm of Brookfield viscometer (Brookfield viscometer) at 25 DEG C.In a particular embodiment, the pH of personal care composition is approximately 3 to approximately 9, or approximately 4 to approximately 7.
Personal care composition can comprise the oil phase at least about 2%.Personal care composition can comprise approximately 2% to approximately 75% with the weighing scale of compositions, or approximately 5% to approximately 35% or approximately 10% to approximately 30% oil phase.Oil phase components does not preferably basically contain silicone, contains the silica-base material that is no more than approximately 10 % by weight, is preferably no more than approximately 5 % by weight.Should be appreciated that, oil phase can contain on a small quantity the solvable emulsifying agent composition of oil phase of (for example, maximum approximately 25%, preferably 10%).
The oil phase components being applicable to herein comprises (for example) C that optionally hydroxyl replaces 8-C 50unsaturated fatty acid and its ester, C 8-C 30the C of satisfied fatty acid 1-C 24ester (for example myristic acid isopropyl esters, Palmic acid cetyl ester and myristic acid octyl group dodecyl ester (Wickenol142)), Cera Flava, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohol (for example behenyl alcohol and hexadecanol), hydrocarbon (for example mineral oil, vaseline and squalane), fat sorbitan ester, lanoline and lanolin derivative, animal and plant triglyceride (for example almond oil, Oleum Arachidis hypogaeae semen, Semen Tritici aestivi germ oil, Semen Lini oil, Jojoba oil (jojoba oil), Fructus Pruni core, Semen Juglandis, palm nut, Fructus Pistaciae Verae (pistachio nut), til seed, the oil of Semen Brassicae campestris, cade oil, Semen Maydis oil, Semen Persicae oil, seed of Papaver somniferum L. powder, Oleum Pini, Oleum Ricini, soybean oil, American Avocado Tree oil, safflower oil, cocos nucifera oil, hazelnut oil, olive oil, Oleum Vitis viniferae and sunflower seed oil) and the C of dimeric dibasic acid and trimer acid 1-C 24ester (for example dimeric dibasic acid diisopropyl ester, malic acid two iso stearyl esters, dimeric dibasic acid two iso stearyl esters and trimer acid three iso stearyl esters).With upper, it is highly preferred that mineral oil, vaseline, unsaturated fatty acid and its ester and its mixture.
Personal care composition can comprise approximately 25% to approximately 98% with the weighing scale of compositions, or approximately 65% to approximately 95%, or approximately 70% to approximately 90% water.In certain embodiments, water can be made up of water completely.In other embodiments, (water can comprise component beyond dewatering, non-water component) to give the benefit of gelatinous tissue increase, include, but is not limited to water solublity wetting agent, conditioner, antimicrobial, wetting agent and/or other water solublity skin care active agent.In one embodiment, water comprises wetting agent, for example glycerol and/or other polyhydric alcohol.In a particular embodiment, personal care composition can be not moisture in fact.
In a particular embodiment, personal care composition comprises oil-water emulsifiers system, and it comprises at least one sucrose fatty acid ester and at least one nonionic surfactant.Sucrose fatty acid ester preferably selects the freely group of following composition: sucrose dilaurate, sucrose distearate, sucrose six eruciates, sucrose six oleate/six cetylate/six stearates, sucrose six cetylates, Surfhope SE Cosme C 1216, Sucrose myristate, sucrose oleate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose five eruciates, the many behenates of sucrose, the many laurates of sucrose, the many linoleates of sucrose, sucrose polyoleate, Sucrose Polystearic Acid Esters, sucrose ricinoleate, sucrose stearate, sucrose tetraoctyl stearate, sucrose three behenates, sucrose trilaurin, sucrose tristearate, sucrose cocos nucifera oil acid esters, many Oleum Gossypii semens of sucrose acid esters, the many cetylates of sucrose, the much Oleum Glycines acid esters of sucrose and its mixture.In more preferred embodiment, sucrose fatty acid ester is sucrose stearate.In a particular embodiment, the freely group of following composition of nonionic surfactant choosing: Glucate SS, PPG-20 methyl glucose ether, PPG-20 methyl glucose ether distearate, PEG-120 methyl glucoside dioleate and there is the ethoxylation methyl glucoside of approximately 10 to approximately 20 repetition ethoxy units.In a preferred embodiment, nonionic surfactant is Glucate SS.
The soaping effect that emulsifier system has herein avoided other personal nursing composite to show surprisingly.For suppressing soaping in many emulsifications, allotment person uses silicone or dimethicone specifically traditionally.Emulsifier system herein is further substantially not soap and can reduce or eliminate containing in the composite of silicone emulsifier surprisingly.Low soaping effect is that about 1:3 assists to about 3:1 by making sucrose fatty acid ester to the ratio of nonionic surfactant.In a preferred embodiment, sucrose fatty acid ester is about 1:1 to the ratio of nonionic surfactant.As used herein, term " emulsifier system " refers to the two the combination of sucrose fatty acid ester and nonionic surfactant.
Preferably, the HLB of emulsifier system is approximately 1.5 to 13.0, preferably approximately 3.4 to 13.0, more preferably 3.4 to approximately 9.5, more preferably 3.4 to approximately 8.0.In the time being formulated in personal nursing or cosmetic composition, emulsifier system exist level with the weighing scale of individual or cosmetics care composition approximately 0.1% to approximately 10%, more preferably approximately 0.25% to approximately 8%, even more preferably approximately 0.5% to approximately 7%, more even more preferably approximately 1.0% to approximately 5% and still even more preferably approximately 1.5% to approximately 4%.
Balance in use surfactant molecule between hydrophilic and lipotropy part is as sorting technique (hydrophile-lipophile balance, HLB).The HLB value of conventional surfactant (for example can easily find in the literature, HLB index in Mai Kaqin emulsifying agent and cleaning agent (McCutcheon's Emulsifiers and Detergents), MC publishing company (MC Publishing Co.), 2004).For instance, in technique, known coconut oleoyl amine monoethanolamine (CMEA) has 16.8 HLB value.Another approach that obtains HLB value is to estimate by calculating.HLB system is to dream up (cosmetic chemistry association of U.S. magazine (J.Soc.Cosmetic Chem.), 1,311,1949) by Griffin (Griffin) at first.Griffin is defined as hydrophilic radical divided by 5 mol% by the HLB value of surfactant, and wherein the HLB value of total hydrophilic molecule (not having non-polar group) is 20.Other the example that how to calculate HLB value is described in interfacial phenomenon (Interfacial Phenomena) by Davis (Davies), the 2nd edition, academic press (Academic Press), London (London), 1963 and beautiful jade (Lin) in physical chemistry magazine (J Phys.Chem.) 76,2019-2013, in 1972.
Extra activating agent
The present composition can contain one or more active ingredients.Suitable especially activating agent comprises osamine, vitamin b 3 compound, vitamin, peptide and sunscreen.
Osamine
Compositions of the present invention can comprise osamine (also referred to as amino sugar) and its salt, isomer, tautomer and derivant.As used herein, " osamine " refer to the synthetic or natural origin of pure amadori compound amadori compound mixture (for example, from the extract of natural origin or the mixture of synthetic material), comprise its isomer, tautomer, salt and derivant.Herein can with the example of osamine (for example comprise glucamine, N-acetyl group glucamine, mannosamine, N-acetyl group mannosamine, galactosamine, GalNAc, its isomer; stereoisomer) and its salt (for example, HCl salt).In one embodiment, osamine is glucamine, or D-Glucose amine and N-acetyl group glucamine, or N-acetyl group-D-Glucose amine.In addition can use, the combination of two or more osamine.Compositions can comprise approximately 0.01% to approximately 15%, or approximately 0.1% to approximately 10% and or approximately 0.5% to approximately 5% osamine.
Vitamin b 3 compound
Compositions of the present invention can comprise vitamin b 3 compound.As used herein, " vitamin b 3 compound " refers to the compound with following formula:
Figure BDA0000485105760000051
Wherein R be-CONH2 (, nicotiamide) ,-COOH (, nicotinic acid) or-CH2OH (, nicotinyl alcohol); Its derivant; With above-mentioned in any one salt.Vitamin b 3 compound can be used for regulation of skin situation especially, as the 5th, described in 939, No. 082 United States Patent (USP)s.In one embodiment, vitamin b 3 compound is nicotiamide.Compositions can comprise approximately 0.001% to approximately 20% with the weighing scale of compositions, or approximately 0.1% to approximately 10%, or approximately 0.5% to approximately 7% vitamin b 3 compound.
Vitamin
For instance, compositions of the present invention can comprise one or more vitamin and thinks that skin provides antioxidant and/or other nutritional benefits.In this article, " vitamin " means vitamin, provitamin and its salt, isomer and derivant.Vitamin can comprise water soluble vitamins, for example nicotinic acid, C1-C18 nicotinate and nicotinyl alcohol; B6 compound, for example pyridoxol; With B5 compound, pantothenylol or " pro-B5 "; And vitamin C compounds, comprise ascorbyl ester and the ascorbic acid derivates of fatty acid, for example, ascorbyl glucoside, phosphoric acid ascorbyl ester magnesium, phosphoric acid ascorbyl ester sodium and sorbic acid ascorbyl ester; With its mixture.Vitamin also can be included in those vitamin that represent limited solubility in water, the all natural and/or synthetic analogues of for example vitamin A compounds and vitamin A, comprises retinoid, carotenoid and has bioactive other compound of vitamin A; Vitamin D compounds; Vitamin E compound or tocopherol, comprise other ester of tocopherol sorbic acid ester, tocopherol acetas, tocopherol; Vitamin K compound; With its mixture.Compositions can comprise approximately 0.0001% to approximately 20% with the weighing scale of compositions, or approximately 0.01% to approximately 15%, or approximately 0.1% to approximately 10% vitamin.
Peptide
Compositions of the present invention can comprise peptide.As used herein, " peptide " refers to and contains the following amino acid whose peptides of ten or ten and its derivant, isomer and for example, complex with other material such as such as metal ion (, copper, zinc, manganese, magnesium etc.).As used herein, peptide refer to natural existence and synthetic peptide the two.In one embodiment, peptide is dipeptides, tripeptides, tetrapeptide, pentapeptide and six peptides, its salt, isomer, derivant and its mixture.The example of useful peptide derivant includes, but is not limited to derived from following peptide: (pal-KTTKS is being called for palmityl-lysine-threonine (pal-KT) and palmityl-K-T-T-K-S
Figure BDA0000485105760000061
compositions in obtain), (pal-GQPR is being called palmityl-glycine-glutamine acid-Pro-Arg compositions in obtain), these three kinds is to buy from Si Erma (Sederma); With Cu-HIS-GLY-glycine (Cu-HGG, also referred to as
Figure BDA0000485105760000063
).Further example comprises carnosine (Beta-alanine-histidine).Preferred peptide comprises PROMATRIXYL (comprising palmityl pentapeptide-3) and PALESTRINA (comprising palmityl dipeptides-7), and the two all can be buied from a gram Loda S. A. R. L. (Croda Inc).Compositions can comprise approximately 1 × 10-6% with the weighing scale of compositions and arrive approximately 20%, or approximately 1 × 10-5% arrives approximately 10%, or approximately 1 × 10-4% arrives approximately 5% peptide.
Sunscreen
Compositions of the present invention can comprise one or more sunscreen actives agent.As used herein, " sunscreen actives agent " refer to oil-soluble sunscreen, insoluble sunscreen and water solublity sunscreen.The limiting examples of suitable oil-soluble sunscreen is disclosed in cosmetics, the international cosmetic raw material dictionary of toiletry and fragrance association and handbook (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association ' s The International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook), the 10th edition, Gao Zichake T.E. (Gottschalck, and Jamie McEwan Jr. (McEwen T.E.), Jr.), (2004), in the 2267th page and 2292-93 page, and comprise BP-3, BEMT, butyl methoxy dibenzoyl base-methane, diethylamino hydroxyl-benzoyl benzoic acid hexyl ester, Ethylhexysalicylate (drometrizole trisiloxane), methoxyl group-cinnamic acid ethyl hexyl ester, Neo Heliopan OS, Uvinul T 150, Ou Tuokuilei (octocrylene), homosalate (homosalate), PARSOL SLX and its derivant and mixture.The limiting examples of suitable insoluble sunscreen comprises di-2-ethylhexylphosphine oxide-benzotriazole base tetramethyl butyl-phenol, titanium dioxide, cerium oxide zinc, zinc oxide and its derivant and mixture.The limiting examples of suitable water solublity sunscreen comprises Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid (PBSA), Terephthalidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl tMsX), UVINUL MS 40, benzophenone-5, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, cinnamamide propyl group-trimethyl ammonium chloride, methoxyl group cinnamamide propyl group ethyl alkyl dimethyl ammonium chloride ether, two ethylphenyl triamido triazine stilbene disulfonic acid disodiums, distyryl biphenyl disulfonic acid disodium, Neo Heliopan AP, methoxyl group cinnamamide propyl hydroxy sulfobetaines, methoxyl group cinnamamide propyl group lauryl dimethyl ammonium toluene fulfonate, PEG-25PABA (Para-Aminobenzoic), polyquaternary ammonium salt-59, TEA-salicylate and its salt, derivant and mixture.Compositions can comprise approximately 0.0001% to approximately 30% with the weighing scale of compositions, or approximately 0.01% to approximately 20%, or approximately 0.1% to approximately 10% vitamin.
Retinoid
Compositions of the present invention can comprise the retinoid of safe and effective amount.As used herein, " retinoid " comprises all natural and/or synthetic analogues of vitamin A or in skin, has the compound of bioactive similar retinol and the geometric isomer of these compounds and the stereoisomer of vitamin A.Retinoid (is for example preferably selected from retinol, retinol ester, the C2-C22 Arrcostab of retinol, comprises VITAMIN A PALMITATE, acetic acid retinyl ester, propanoic acid retinyl ester), retinal and/or tretinoin (comprising all-trans retinoic acid and/or 13CRA) or its mixture.In one embodiment, retinoid is propanoic acid retinyl ester.Compositions can comprise approximately 0.001% to approximately 10% with the weighing scale of compositions, or 0.01% to approximately 1%, or approximately 0.01% to approximately 0.5% retinoid.
Other activating agent
Other suitable activating agent includes, but is not limited to oily controlling agent, N-acyl amino acid compound, tanned activating agent, anti-acne activating agent, desquamation activating agent, anti-liparitosis activating agent, chelating agen, skin lightening agent, flavonoid, protease inhibitor, tyrosinase inhibitor, non-vitamin antioxidant and free radical scavenger, antiseptic, hair growth regulating agent, anti-wrinkle activating agent, anti-atrophy activating agent, mineral, phytosterol and/or phytohormone, antiinflammatory, antimicrobial and antifungal.Further suitable activating agent comprises caffeine; Tea extract, for example Ramulus et Folium Mussaendae Pubescentis extract and green tea extract; Radix Ginseng; Fructus Cucumidis sativi extract; Rosehips oil; Date palm nuclear extract; Radix Hamamelidis Mollis extract; Fructus anethi extract; Tetrahydrocurcumin; Turmerone; Natural or vegetalization compound with other.Many these activating agents are provided in the open case of US2006/0275237A1 U. S. application, the open case of US2004/0175347A1 U. S. application and the open case of US2006/0263309A1 U. S. application in further detail.
Optional composition
Microparticle material
Compositions of the present invention can comprise one or more microparticle materials of approximately 0.001% to approximately 40% with the weighing scale of compositions.The limiting examples of suitable powder comprises inorganic powder (for example, ferrum oxide, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silicon dioxide), organic dust, composite powder, optical brightener particle and above-mentioned any one mixture.These microgranules can be (for example) slice-shaped, spherical, elongated or aciculiform or irregularly shaped; Surface is through applying or uncoated; Porous or non-porous; Charged or not charged; And can be used as powder or pre-dispersed liquid adds in this compositions.In one embodiment, microparticle material is through hydrophobic coating.
Suitable organic dust microparticle material includes, but is not limited to be selected from following polymer particle: methyl silsesquioxane resin microsphere, for example, Tospearl tM145A (Toshiba's silica gel (Toshiba Silicone)); The microsphere of methyl methacrylate is poly-, for example, and Micropearl tMm100 (match Bick (Seppic)); The spheroidal particle of crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane, for example, Trefil tMe506C or Trefil tMe505C (the DOW CORNING beautiful silica gel in east (DoW Corning Toray Silicone)); The spheroidal particle of polyamide, for example, PA-12 (nylon-12) and Orgasol tM2002D Nat C05 (atropic chemistry (Atochem)); Polystyrene microsphere, for example, with trade name Dynospheres tMsell Dynaudio (Dyno) particle and with trade name FloBead tMthe ethylene acrylate copolymer that EA209 (section wins (Kobo)) sells; Starch ocentyl succinic aluminum, for example, Dry Flo tM(national starch (National Starch)); Polyethylene Particles, for example, Microthene tMfN510-00 (Ai Kuisita (Equistar)) and
Figure BDA0000485105760000081
220L (micropowder company (Micro Powders, Inc.)); Polyacrylic microsphere, for example, Mattewax tM511 (micropowder companies); Silicone resin; Poly methyl silsesquioxane silicone polymer; The slice-shaped powder making from L-lauroyl lysine; With its mixture.
Compositions of the present invention further can comprise coated interference pigment, comprises the coated interference pigment of hydrophobic modification.In this article, " coated interference pigment " means to have the platy layered particle of two or more controlled thickness layers.Described layer has different refractive indexs, its from the different layers from tabular particle common twice but once in a while the interference of twice above luminous reflectance obtain feature reflection colour.An example of coated interference pigment be have about 50-300nm TiO2, Fe2O3, silicon dioxide, stannum oxide and/or Cr2O3 rete Muscovitum and comprise pearlescent pigment.Coated interference pigment can be buied from many suppliers, for example, and Luo Na (Rona) (Timiron tMand Dichrona tM), Jim Press Paasche (Presperse) (Flonac tM), Engelhard (Englehard) (Duochrome tM), section rich (SK-45-R and SK-45-G), BASF (BASF) (Sicopearls tM) and Ai Kate (Eckart) (Prestige tM).In one embodiment, the average diameter of indivedual particle longest edges of coated interference pigment is less than approximately 75 microns, and or is less than approximately 50 microns.
The limiting examples of suitable coloring agent comprises ferrum oxide, ferric ferrocyanide ammonium, manganese violet, ultramarine and chromium oxide, phthalocyanine blue and green pigment, is encapsulated dyestuff, inorganic Chinese white (for example TiO2, ZnO or ZrO2), FD &; C dyestuff D &; C dyestuff and its mixture.
Inorganic sunscreen
Compositions further can comprise approximately 0.001% to approximately 10% and or approximately 0.1% to approximately 5% inorganic and/or oily insoluble sunscreen.The limiting examples of suitable insoluble sunscreen comprises di-2-ethylhexylphosphine oxide-benzotriazole base tetramethyl butyl-phenol, titanium dioxide, cerium oxide zinc, zinc oxide and its derivant and mixture.
Non-polar emollient
Compositions of the present invention can comprise approximately 2% to approximately 70% and or 30% to approximately 50% non-polar emollient.The limiting examples of suitable non-polar emollient comprises silicone oil, hydrocarbon ils and its mixture.That useful non-polar emollient in the present invention comprises is natural, synthetic, saturated, unsaturated, straight chain, tool side chain, linearity, ring-type, aromatic series, volatility and non-volatile non-polar emollient and its mixture.
The limiting examples of suitable nonpolar hydrocarbon ils comprises that mineral oil and tool branched-chain hydrocarbons are (for example, with trade name Permethyl tM(Permethyl Corporation tM) and Isopar tM(Exxon tM) seller).The limiting examples of suitable nonpolar silicone oil comprises linear and ring-type dimethicone.These type silicone comprise that commercial examples DOW CORNING 200 series, DOW CORNING 344 and DOW CORNING 345 are (all from DOW CORNING tMcompany buys); With S F1202, S F1204 and Viscasil tMseries is (all from G.E. silica gel (G.E.Silicones) tMbuy).Extra nonpolar silicone oil through alkyl (for example comprises, 2 carbon to 30 carbon) and aryl is (for example, phenyl or styryl) replace silicone, include, but is not limited to phenyl first polysiloxanes, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl front three polysiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicone, phenylethyl dimethicone, hexyl dimethicone, lauryl dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, stearyl dimethicone, two-stearyl dimethicone and its mixture.
Hydrophobic component
Compositions of the present invention can comprise approximately 2% to approximately 75% with the weighing scale of compositions, or approximately 5% to approximately 35%, or approximately 10% to approximately 30% hydrophobic component.Hydrophobic component can and can be natural or synthetic (, artificial) derived from animal, plant or oil.Preferred hydrophobic component is in fact water-insoluble, more preferably substantially water-insoluble.Preferred hydrophobic component is that those fusing points under approximately atmospheric pressure are approximately 25 DEG C or following person.The limiting examples of suitable hydrophobic component comprises the freely person of group of following composition of those choosings: mineral oil, vaseline, ester, hydrocarbon, there is straight chain and the tool branched-chain hydrocarbons of approximately 7 to approximately 40 carbon atoms, the C1-C30 alcohol ester of C1-C30 carboxylic acid and C2-C30 dicarboxylic acids, the monoglyceride of C1-C30 carboxylic acid, two glyceride and triglyceride, the alkane diol ester of C1-C30 carboxylic acid, propoxylation and ethoxylated derivative, C1-C30 monoesters and the polyester of sugar and associated materials, organopolysiloxane oil (poly-alkylsiloxane, ring-type is gathered alkylsiloxane, trimethylsiloxy group silicate, dimethiconol, polyoxyethylene alkyl aryl radical siloxane), vegetable oil and hydrogenated vegetable oil, Animal fat and oil, silicone elastomer and its combination.These components are provided in the 5th in further detail, in the open case of 997, No. 887 United States Patent (USP)s and US2005/0019356A1 U. S. application.
The index of soaping
What emulsifier system in this article avoided that many personal care compositions represent surprisingly soaps.As discussed above, allotment person traditionally by with silicone and specifically dimethicone alleviate soaping effect, to minimize the soap film outward appearance of cosmetic composition after applying.Soaping effect is measured by " index of soaping " in this article.
The index of soaping is based on according to 5 scales of the comparative example below discussed.Each sample composite of about 0.5g is applied to the forearm that is applied to user by consumer according to typical case.The composite of the soap residue that forms maximum by macroscopy is appointed as to " 5 ".Residue composite is compared side by side by naked eyes, and on relative basis designated value, wherein " 5 " form composite for being approximately equal to the highest soap residue, and " 0 " is in fact containing any soap residue.
Using method
The present invention relates to for improvement of or regulate the method for keratinous tissue conditions.In one aspect, this can be by providing above-mentioned personal care composition and compositions being applied to and needing the collenchyme for the treatment of to realize.Wait that the situation of improving or regulating comprises the outward appearance that increases the brightness of skin or " property radiant (glow) ", minimizing wrinkle and thick dark line, fine rule, crack, bulge and corse sweat pore; Make collenchyme thicken (for example, build the epidermis of skin and/or corium and/or subcutis and in the situation that being suitable for the horny layer of fingernail and hair shaft, to reduce skin, hair or fingernail atrophy); Increase corium-epidermis border (also referred to as net Xiao) convolution; Prevent skin or hair elastic loss, for example, due to loss, infringement and/or the inactivation of functional skin elasticity albumen, this causes losing distortion return such as elastosis, sagging, skin or hair; Reduce liparitosis; Change the color of skin, hair or fingernail, for example, black eye, speckle (the inhomogeneous redness for example, causing due to for example acne erythematosa), lark, the variable color being caused by telangiectasis or Aranea blood vessel, dry, fragility and gray hair.
Manufacture method
Personal care composition herein can be allocated according to following steps.In appropriate vessel, oil phase (comprising oil-soluble composition) component is combined and use and for example, when suitable blender (, Tai Make (Tekmar) RW20DZM) is mixed is incorporated in stirring, be heated to about 70-80 DEG C and maintain this temperature.In independent appropriate vessel, water (comprising water-soluble components) component is combined and use and when suitable blender is mixed is incorporated in stirring, be heated to about 70-80 DEG C and maintain this temperature.Then oil mixture added in aqueous mixture and fully stir so that emulsifying combination.Make the emulsifier system of oil phase and water component be cooled to approximately 60 DEG C, and then in continuous stirring, optional composition is added in emulsion.Make emulsion be further cooled to approximately 40 DEG C.Then use suitable grinding machine (for example, utilizing Tai Make T-25) that emulsion is milled approximately 5 minutes or until product is even.
Example
Present following instance to further illustrate the compositions and methods of the invention, but it can not be considered as limiting the present invention, the present invention describes in appended claims.Unless all umbers in example and percent are taking weight as basis and explanation reverse situation, otherwise all measured values all obtain at approximately 23 DEG C.
Example I-IX forms according to following steps.The premixing in small container by xanthan gum and glycerol.In independent larger container, by organic aloe gel 1X and water combination, mix simultaneously.Xanthan gum/glycerol premix is added in organic aloe gel 1X in larger container and aqueous mixtures and mix until evenly.Then in mixing, add betanin and sucrose stearate to bulk container, and then container is heated to 80 degrees Celsius (degrees Celsius).In this container, continue to stir (water) until content is even.Glucate SS, sunflower seed oil and Adeps Bovis seu Bubali resin are added to independent container heating in mixing until 80 DEG C (oil phase).When water and oil phase the two evenly and when temperature is 80 degrees Celsius, in mixing, slowly add oil phase to water.Then this combination mixture is homogenized and reaches the time of proper proportion.Then make batch of material leave standstill with cooling.In the time that the temperature of batch of material reaches 30-35 degree Celsius, add Geogard221, Pheohydrane G and Tocobiol.Then batch of material is mixed until evenly and be further cooled to 30 degrees Celsius.
Figure BDA0000485105760000111
Figure BDA0000485105760000121
1 buys from Ying Chuangaoshi Mitt USA Corporation (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH)
Figure BDA0000485105760000122
cARE PS
2 GEOGARD that buy from dragon husky (Lonza) tM221
3 form from health the Pheohydrane G that skin (Codif) is buied
4 buy from BASF
Figure BDA0000485105760000123
The 5 Sisterna SP70-C that buy from Si Tena (Sisterna)
6 buy from Luo Diya group (Rhodia Novecare)
Figure BDA0000485105760000124
7Betafin?BP-20
Comparative example
The composite of above example I is compared with comparative sample A, B and C respectively.The comparative example C that does not contain dimethicone has the height index of soaping in the time being applied to skin.As below confirmed, the dimethicone of increase level reduces high incidence rate of soaping.Comparative example A is suitable with example I about its soapiness index score in the time that it comprises 3% dimethicone.By contrast, example I is not containing silicone emulsifier.
Comparative example A B C
? ? ? ?
Oil phase ? ? ?
Fructus Canarii albi oleic acid cetyl/sorbitan olive oil acid esters 8 4.00 4.00 4.00
Sunflower seed oil 15.75 15.75 15.75
Adeps Bovis seu Bubali resin 3.00 3.00 3.00
Dehydroactic acid/benzyl alcohol/water 9 1.00 1.00 1.00
Glycerin/water/hydrolysis algin/chlorella extract/sea salt 10 1.00 1.00 1.00
Comparative example A B C
? ? ? ?
Tocopherol 11 0.10 0.10 0.10
Dimethicone 12 3.00 0.50 0.00
Water ? ? ?
Organic aloe gel 1X 50.00 50.00 50.00
Xanthan gum 13 0.50 0.50 0.50
Glycerol 1.60 1.60 1.60
Betanin 14 1.00 1.00 1.00
Water 19.05 19.05 19.05
8
Figure BDA0000485105760000131
1000
9 GEOGARD that buy from imperial sand tM221
10 form from health the Pheohydrane G that skin is buied
11 buy from BASF
Figure BDA0000485105760000132
The 12 Xiameter PMX-200 silicone FL.10CS that buy from DOW CORNING
13 buy from Luo Diya group
14Betafin?BP-20
Composite The index of soaping
Example I 1
Comparative example A 1
Comparative example B 3
Comparative example C 5
Size disclosed herein and value should not be construed as and be strictly limited to cited exact numerical values recited.On the contrary, except as otherwise noted, otherwise described in each, size plan refers to cited value and the function equivalent scope around described value.For instance, the size plan that is disclosed as " 40mm " refers to " about 40mm ".
In the case of in the scope of enumerator, should be appreciated that also each the intervenient integer value between the specific cited upper limit and the lower limit that is disclosed in described scope and each subrange between its each mark and described numerical value.The upper and lower bound of arbitrary scope can be included in described scope or from described scope independently to be got rid of, and does not comprise arbitrary limit value or comprise that each scope of two limit values is also encompassed in the present invention.Have intrinsic limit value in discussed value, for example, concentration that can 0% to 100% at component exists, or can be in the case of in 1 to 14 scope at the pH of aqueous solution, these intrinsic limit values of specific announcement.In the situation that clearly enumerating a certain numerical value, should be understood that as the scope based on it, with the cited approximately uniform amount of value or quantity also within the scope of the invention.In the situation that disclosing combination, also each sub-portfolio of the key element of the described combination of specific announcement, and it is also within the scope of the invention.On the contrary, in the situation that disclosing different key elements or key element group, also disclose its combination.Any key element in invention is disclosed as and has multiple replaceable schemes, wherein each replaceable scheme separately or with the excluded example of the present invention of any combination of other alternative also therefore and revealed; More than one key element of invention can have described eliminating, and discloses thus all combinations of the key element with described eliminating.
Unless clearly gets rid of or otherwise limit, otherwise the mode that each file of quoting herein (comprising any cross reference or Patents or application case) is quoted with its entirety is incorporated herein.The quoting of any file not admits that it is separately or with any combination teaching, the suggestion of any other one or more lists of references or disclose any described invention about the prior art of disclosed herein or any invention that advocate or its.And any implication of the term in this file or definition, should be to be as the criterion for the specified implication of described term or definition in this file with arbitrary implication of the same term in the file being incorporated to by reference or defining and conflicting.
Although illustrated and described specific embodiment of the present invention, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that, can make that various other goes out to change and amendment and do not deviate from the spirit and scope of the present invention.Therefore, intend to contain all these a little changes and amendment within the scope of the invention in appended claims.

Claims (11)

1. a cosmetic composition, it comprises at least one sucrose fatty acid ester and at least one nonionic surfactant, and described compositions is not in fact containing silicone emulsifier.
2. personal care composition according to claim 1, wherein said sucrose fatty acid ester is the group of the freely following person's composition of choosing: sucrose dilaurate, sucrose distearate, sucrose six eruciates; Sucrose six oleate/six cetylate/six stearates, sucrose six cetylates, Surfhope SE Cosme C 1216; Sucrose myristate, sucrose oleate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose five eruciates, the many behenates of sucrose, the many laurates of sucrose, the many linoleates of sucrose, sucrose polyoleate, Sucrose Polystearic Acid Esters, sucrose ricinoleate, sucrose stearate, sucrose tetraoctyl stearate, sucrose three behenates, sucrose trilaurin, sucrose tristearate, sucrose cocos nucifera oil acid esters, many Oleum Gossypii semens of sucrose acid esters, the many cetylates of sucrose, the much Oleum Glycines acid esters of sucrose, and its mixture.
3. personal care composition according to claim 1, wherein said nonionic surfactant is the freely group of following person's composition of choosing: Glucate SS, methyl glucose ether, methyl glucose ether distearate, PEG-120 methyl glucoside dioleate and have the ethoxylation methyl glucosides of approximately 10 to approximately 20 repetition ethoxy units.
4. personal care composition according to claim 1, wherein said sucrose fatty acid ester is sucrose stearate, and described nonionic surfactant is Glucate SS.
5. personal care composition emulsion according to claim 1, wherein said sucrose stearate and described Glucate SS are to be included to the ratio within the scope of about 3:1 at about 1:3.
6. personal care composition according to claim 1, it further comprises the activating agent that choosing freely comprises the group of following person's activating agent composition: osamine, vitamin b 3 compound, vitamin, peptide, sunscreen, retinoid, and its mixture.
7. personal care composition according to claim 1, it further comprises the activating agent of the group of the freely following person's composition of at least one choosing: oily controlling agent, N-acyl amino acid compound, tanned activating agent, anti-acne activating agent, desquamation activating agent, anti-liparitosis activating agent, chelating agen, skin lightening agent, flavonoid, protease inhibitor, tyrosinase inhibitor, non-vitamin antioxidant and free radical scavenger, antiseptic, hair growth regulating agent, anti-wrinkle activating agent, anti-atrophy activating agent, mineral, phytosterol and/or phytohormone, antiinflammatory, antimicrobial, antifungal, with its mixture.
8. personal care composition according to claim 1, it further comprises the activating agent of the group of the freely following person's composition of one or more choosings: caffeine, tea extract, Radix Ginseng, Fructus Cucumidis sativi extract, Rosehips oil, date palm nuclear extract, Radix Hamamelidis Mollis extract, Fructus anethi extract, tetrahydrocurcumin, turmerone, and its mixture.
9. personal care composition according to claim 1, it further comprises one or more microparticle materials.
10. personal care composition according to claim 1, it further comprises at least one emollient.
11. 1 kinds of cosmetic compositions, it comprises emulsifier system premix, and described premix is made up of sucrose fatty acid ester and nonionic surfactant; Wherein said compositions is not in fact containing silicone emulsifier.
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