KR20140069279A - Personal compositions with silicone emulsifier-free natural emulsifier system - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to personal care compositions comprising at least one sucrose fatty acid ester and at least one nonionic surfactant and substantially free of silicone emulsifiers. The personal care compositions are particularly suitable for conditioning and moisturizing applications.

Description

[0001] PERSONAL COMPOSITIONS WITH SILICONE EMULSIFIER-FREE NATURAL EMULSIFIER SYSTEM [0002]

<Cross reference to related application>

This application claims priority to U.S. Provisional Application No. 61 / 541,747 filed on September 30, 2011.

&Lt; Field of the Invention &

The present invention relates to personal care compositions comprising an oil-in-water emulsifier system. Emulsifier systems can achieve a low soaping index in personal care compositions that do not have a silicone emulsifier.

Volatile silicon and dimethicone are widely used as carriers or diluents for personal care and cosmetic applications. They enhance spreadability and lubricity, evaporate rapidly from the skin without cooling or irritating the skin, leaving a pleasantly dry and smooth feel. They lubricate the spray valve and roll-on applicator, ensure that the stick composition stays smooth, and prevent saponification and whitening during application. Thus, silicon has been heretofore used in personal care compositions to provide one or more of the advantages mentioned above.

Consumers want personal care compositions that are easy to apply to the skin and dislike compositions that form dry or thin skin-like residues. In order to design a product with high spreadability, a low formulation viscosity is preferred. In addition, consumers want to know more about the safety of ingredients used in their cosmetic products. In particular, the use of silicon and silicone-based products has received negative attention from the media. Silicones and their derivatives have been used as major carriers, wetting agents or coatings in many commonly available cosmetics and personal care dispersions where manufacturers are dependent. However, although silicone and its derivatives have been widely used in cosmetics for many years, their safety as well as their environmental impact have been scrutinized again. In view of this situation, silicon and its derivatives may lose consumer support and, if manufacturers continue to provide dispersion-based cosmetics and personal care products, it is necessary to find a suitable substitute. Thus, there is a need for a formulation that is stable and maintains low-saponification even in formulations that do not have a silicone emulsifier.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION [

The present invention relates to personal care compositions comprising an oil-in-water emulsifier system comprising at least one sucrose fatty acid ester and at least one nonionic surfactant, wherein said system is substantially free of silicone emulsifiers.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [

While the specification concludes with claims particularly pointing out and distinctly claiming the invention, it is believed that the invention will be better understood from the following detailed description.

All percentages, parts and ratios are based on the total weight of the composition of the present invention, unless otherwise specified. All such weights are based on the level of activity when referring to the listed ingredients and thus do not include solvents or by-products that may be included in commonly available materials, unless otherwise specified. The term "percent by weight" may be referred to herein as "wt% ".

All molecular weights used herein are weight average molecular weights expressed in grams / mole unless otherwise specified.

As used herein, "comprising" means that other steps and other ingredients that do not affect the end result may be added. This term includes the terms "consisting" and "consisting essentially of. &Quot; The compositions and methods / processes of the present invention comprise the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein as well as any additional or optional ingredients, ingredients, steps or limitations described herein, consisting essentially of, &Lt; / RTI &gt;

The term "availability" as used herein means that the material is soluble in oil. In general, the material should be soluble at a concentration of at least 0.1 wt%, preferably at least 1 wt%, more preferably at least 5 wt%, and most preferably at least 15 wt% of the oil solvent at 25 ° C.

As used herein, the term "oil insoluble" means that the material is not oil soluble. That is, the substance is not miscible with the oil.

As used herein, the term "polymer" will include both materials produced by polymerization of one type of monomer, or materials produced by both types (i.e., copolymers) or more types of monomers.

The term "personal care composition " as used herein refers to a composition intended for topical application to the skin or hair, and specifically refers to a composition that is not intended primarily for hard surface cleaning, textile or laundry cleaning, and topical application to hair or skin Other compositions that are directed primarily to other similar applications are excluded. Examples of personal care compositions of the present invention include, but are not limited to, lotions, interior tanning agents, sunscreen lotions, antiperspirants, deodorants, shaving creams, face creams, color cosmetics, lipsticks, mascara, blushes, foundations, nail polishes, can do. Such as cleansing composition used with shampoo, conditioner shampoo, body wash, moisturizing body wash, shower gel, skin cleanser, cleansing milk, hair and body wash, body moisturizer in shower, pet shampoo, shaving preparation and disposable cleansing cloth The composition is also suitable.

The term "silicone emulsifier " as used herein refers to a silicone-based component intended for the purpose of suspending or dispersing the other components of personal care compositions. Silicone emulsifiers, as defined herein, specifically do not include silicone-based components that serve as emollients, opacifiers, particulates, and the like, which are not intended to emulsify the composition.

As used herein, the term "solid particles" means liquid or non-gaseous particles.

As used herein, the expression "substantially free ", unless otherwise indicated, means that the composition will contain less than about 5%, preferably less than about 3%, more preferably less than about 1% Means less than about 0.1%. As used herein, the term "not" means that the composition comprises 0% of the recited ingredient, i. E. The ingredient is not added to the composition, As shown in FIG.

The term "water soluble" as used herein means that the polymer is soluble in water in the composition. In general, the polymer should be soluble at a concentration of at least 0.1 wt.%, Preferably at least 1 wt.%, More preferably at least 5 wt.%, And most preferably at least 15 wt.% Of the water solvent at 25 ° C.

As used herein, the term " water insoluble "means that the compound is not soluble in water in the composition. That is, the compound is not miscible with water.

Personal care composition

The personal care composition of the present invention is an oil-in-water emulsion comprising a water phase and a discontinuous oil phase. Suitable emulsions may have a wide range of viscosity depending on the desired product form. In certain embodiments, the personal care composition has a viscosity of from about 1,000 cps (centipoise) to about 1,000,000 cps, or from about 5,000 cps to about 500,000 cps, or from about 10,000 cps to about 200,000 cps, or from about 15,000 cps to about 75,000 cps Lt; / RTI &gt; For example, the viscosity can be measured in a Brookfield viscometer using a T-C rod spindle with a helio pad set at 25 rpm at 5 rpm. In certain embodiments, the personal care composition has a pH of from about 3 to about 9, or from about 4 to about 7. [

The personal care composition may comprise at least about 2% oil phase. The personal care composition may comprise from about 2% to about 75%, or from about 5% to about 35%, or from about 10% to about 30%, by weight of the oil phase of the composition. The oily component preferably has essentially no silicon, i. E. About 10% by weight or less, preferably about 5% by weight or less of silicon-based material. It is understood that the oil phase may contain a low level of oil soluble emulsifier component (e.g., less than about 25%, preferably 10%).

Suitable oily components for use herein include, for example, optionally hydroxy-substituted C.sub.8 - C.sub.50 unsaturated fatty acids and esters thereof, C.sub.8 - C.sub.30 saturated fatty acids C.sub.1-C.sub.24 esters such as isopropyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and octyldodecyl myristate (Wickenol 142), waxes, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols such as behenyl alcohol and Cetyl alcohol, hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, petrolatum and squalene, fatty sorbitan esters, lanolin and lanolin derivatives, animal and plant triglycerides such as almond oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, flax oil, jojoba oil, , Walnut oil, palnut oil, pistachio nut oil, sesame oil, rapeseed oil, cade oil, corn oil, peach seed oil, poppy seed oil, pine oil, castor oil, soybean oil, C ₁ -C ₂₄ esters of biconazole oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil and sunflower seed oil, and dimer and trimer acid, such as diisopropyl dimaleate, diisostearyl horse Diisostearyl dimerate, and triisostearyl trimyrate. Of these, mineral oils, petrolatum, unsaturated fatty acids and esters thereof and mixtures thereof are most preferred.

The personal care composition may comprise from about 25% to about 98%, or from about 65% to about 95%, or from about 70% to about 90%, by weight of the aqueous phase of the composition. In some embodiments, the water phase may consist entirely of water. In other embodiments, to provide increased benefit to the keratinous tissue, the aqueous phase may include, but is not limited to, components other than water, including water-soluble moisturizers, conditioning agents, antimicrobial agents, wetting agents, and / I.e., a non-water component). In one embodiment, the water phase comprises a wetting agent such as glycerin and / or other polyols. In certain embodiments, the personal care composition may be substantially free of water.

In certain embodiments, the personal care composition comprises an oil-in-water emulsifier system comprising at least one sucrose fatty acid ester and at least one non-ionic surfactant. The sucrose fatty acid esters are preferably selected from sucrose dilaurate, sucrose distearate, sucrose hexaerate, sucrose hexaoleate / hexapalmitate / hexa stearate, sucrose hexapalmitate, The present invention relates to a process for producing a polylactate obtained by hydrolyzing a polylactate in the presence of at least one polylactate selected from the group consisting of lactose, sucrose myristate, sucrose oleate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose pentaerythritate, sucrose polybehenate, sucrose polylaurate, But are not limited to, cross-polystearate, cross-polystearate, sucrose ricinoleate, sucrose stearate, sucrose tetraisostearate, sucrose tribehenate, sucrostrateate, sucrostricostearate, sucrose cocoate, Citrate, sucrose polypallamate, sucrose polysoate and the like It is selected from the group consisting of a mixture. In a more preferred embodiment, the sucrose fatty acid ester is sucrose stearate. In certain embodiments, the nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of methyl glucose sesquistearate, PPG-20 methyl glucose ether, PPG-20 methyl glucose ether distearate, PEG-120 methyl glucose diolate, and about 10 to about 20 RTI ID = 0.0 &gt; ethoxylated &lt; / RTI &gt; methyl glucose having repeating ethoxy units. In a preferred embodiment, the nonionic surfactant is methyl glucose sesquistearate.

The emulsifier system herein surprisingly avoids the saponifying effect identified by other personal care agents. In order to inhibit saponification in many emulsions, manufacturers have traditionally used silicon, or specifically dimethicone. The emulsifier system herein is even more surprising in that the saponification can be reduced or eliminated in formulations that are substantially free of silicone emulsifiers. The low-saponification effect is assisted by achieving a ratio of sucrose fatty acid ester to nonionic surfactant of from about 1: 3 to about 3: 1. In a preferred embodiment, the ratio of sucrose fatty acid ester to nonionic surfactant is about 1: 1. As used herein, the term "emulsifier system" refers to a combination of both sucrose fatty acid ester and nonionic surfactant.

Preferably, the emulsifier system has an HLB of about 1.5 to 13.0, preferably about 3.4 to 13.0, more preferably 3.4 to about 9.5, and more preferably 3.4 to about 8.0. When formulated as a personal care or cosmetic composition, the emulsifier system comprises from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.25% to about 8%, by weight of the personal or cosmetic care composition, From about 0.5% to about 7% by weight, even more preferably from about 1.0% to about 5% by weight, still more preferably from about 1.5% to about 4% by weight.

The balance between the hydrophilic and lipophilic moieties in the surfactant molecule is used as a classification method (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance, HLB). The HLB values of commonly used surfactants are readily available in the literature (for example, the HLB index in McCutcheon's Emulsifiers and Detergents, MC Publishing Co., 2004). For example, cocamide monoethanolamine (CMEA) is known in the art to have an HLB value of 16.8. Another way to obtain the HLB value is by calculation. The HLB system was originally devised by Griffin (J. Soc. Cosmetic Chem., 1, 311, 1949). Griffin defined the HLB value of the surfactant as the mole percent of the hydrophilic group divided by 5, where the complete hydrophilic molecule (without the non-polar group) had an HLB value of 20. Other examples of methods for calculating HLB values are described by Davies in Interfacial Phenomena, 2nd Edition, Academic Press, London, 1963, and Lin, J Phys. Chem. 76, 2019-2013, 1972).

Additional activator

The compositions of the present invention may comprise one or more active ingredients. Particularly suitable activators include sugar amines, vitamin B3 compounds, vitamins, peptides and sunscreens.

Sugar amine

The compositions of the present invention may include sugar amines, also known as amino sugars, and salts, isomers, tautomers and derivatives thereof. As used herein, the term "sugar amine" refers to a mixture of sugar amine compounds of synthetic or natural origin, including pure sugar amine compounds, or isomers, tautomers, salts and derivatives thereof Mixture of substances). Examples of sugar amines useful herein include glucosamine, N-acetylglucosamine, mannosamine, N-acetylmannosamine, galactosamine, N-acetylgalactosamine, isomers thereof (e.g., stereoisomers) (E.g., HCl salt). In one embodiment, the sugar amine is glucosamine, or D-glucosamine and N-acetylglucosamine, or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine. In addition, a combination of two or more sugar amines may be used. The composition may comprise from about 0.01% to about 15%, alternatively from about 0.1% to about 10%, alternatively from about 0.5% to about 5%, of the sugar amine.

Vitamin B3 compound

The composition of the present invention may comprise a vitamin B3 compound. As used herein, a "vitamin B3 compound" A derivative thereof; And salts of any of these:

Wherein R is -CONH ₂ (i.e., niacinamide), -COOH (i.e., nicotinic acid), or -CH ₂ OH (i.e., nicotinyl alcohol). Vitamin B3 compounds are particularly useful for controlling skin conditions as described in U.S. Patent No. 5,939,082. In one embodiment, the vitamin B3 compound is niacinamide. The composition may comprise from about 0.001% to about 20%, or from about 0.1% to about 10%, or from about 0.5% to about 7%, by weight of the vitamin B3 compound of the composition.

vitamin

The compositions of the present invention may, for example, comprise one or more vitamins to provide antioxidant and / or other nutritional benefits to the skin. As used herein, "vitamin" refers to vitamins, pro-vitamins and salts, isomers and derivatives thereof. Vitamins include water-soluble vitamins such as nicotinic acid, C1-C18 nicotinic acid ester, and nicotinyl alcohol; B6 compounds such as pyrrolidine; And B5 compounds, such as panthenol, or "pro-B5 "; And ascorbyl esters of fatty acids, and vitamin C compounds including ascorbic acid derivatives, such as ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, and ascorbyl sorbate; And mixtures thereof. Vitamins may also include all natural and / or synthetic analogs of vitamin A, including those that exhibit limited solubility in water, such as vitamin A compounds and other compounds having retinoids, carotenoids, and biological activity of vitamin A; Vitamin D compounds; Vitamin E compounds, or tocopherol including tocopherol sorbate, tocopherol acetate, and other esters of tocopherol; Vitamin K compounds; And mixtures thereof. The composition may comprise from about 0.0001% to about 20%, or from about 0.01% to about 15%, or from about 0.1% to about 10%, by weight of the vitamin of the composition.

Peptides

The composition of the present invention may comprise a peptide. As used herein, "peptides" refers to peptides containing 10 or more amino acids and their derivatives, isomers, and other species such as metal ions (e.g., copper, zinc, manganese, magnesium, etc.) &Lt; / RTI &gt; As used herein, peptides refer to both naturally occurring and synthetic peptides. In one embodiment, the peptides are di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- and hexa-peptides, salts, isomers, derivatives and mixtures thereof. Examples of useful peptide derivatives include, but are not limited to, palmitoyl-lysine-threonine (pal-KT) and palmitoyl-lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-known to serine (pal-KTTKS, do tricks chamber (MATRIXYL) ^® obtained from the composition is acceptable), palmitoyl-glycine-glutamine-proline-possible to obtain a arginine (pal-GQPR, rigin (RIGIN) the known composition in an ^®), (these three are the three dermal (Sederma) available from available), and Cu- histidine-comprises a peptide derived from glycine (Cu-HGG, the amine (IAMIN) ^® also known as a search) from - glycine. A further example includes carnosine (beta-alanine-histidine). Preferred peptides are the PALESTRINA (both available from Croda Inc.), which contains the promatrile (PROMATRIXYL) containing palmitoylpentapeptide-3 and palmitoyldipeptide-7 . The composition comprises about 1 x ^10-6 wt% to about 20 wt%, or about 1 x ^10-5 wt% to about 10 wt%, or about 1 x ^10-4 wt% to about 5 wt% .

Sunscreen

The compositions of the present invention may comprise one or more sunscreen actives. As used herein, "sunscreen active" refers to an oil sunscreen, an insoluble sunscreen, and a water soluble sunscreen. Suitable non-limiting examples of useful sunscreens are described in The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association's International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 10th Ed., Gottschalck, TE and McEwen, Jr., Eds. (2004), p. 2267 and pp. 2292-93, and are exemplified by benzophenone-3, bisethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylaminohydroxy-benzoylhexyl Ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyltriazone, octocrylene, homosalate, polysilicon-15, and derivatives and mixtures thereof. The term &quot; . Non-limiting examples of suitable insoluble sunscreens include methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyl-phenol, titanium dioxide, zinc cerium oxide, zinc oxide, and derivatives and mixtures thereof. A ratio of suitable water-soluble sunscreen-limiting examples phenyl benzimidazole sulfonic acid (PBSA), terephthalic ylidene dikam formate sulfone acid, (MEC talking (Mexoryl) ^TM SX), benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, benzylidene Camphorsulfonic acid, cinnamidopropyl-trimonium chloride, methoxy cinnamido-propyl ethyl dimonium chloride ether, disodium bisethylphenyl triaminotriazine stilbenylsulfonate, disodium distyrylbiphenyl disulfonate, disodium Phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, methoxycinnamido-propylhydroxysultaine, methoxycinnamido-propyllaurodimonium tosylate, PEG-25 PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), polyquaternium-59 , TEA-salicylate, and salts, derivatives and mixtures thereof. The composition may comprise from about 0.0001% to about 30%, or from about 0.01% to about 20%, or from about 0.1% to about 10%, by weight of the vitamin of the composition.

Retinoid

The compositions of the present invention may contain a safe and effective amount of a retinoid. As used herein, "retinoids" include all natural and / or synthetic analogs of vitamin A or retinol-like compounds having biological activity of vitamin A in the skin, as well as the geometric and stereoisomeric forms of such compounds. The retinoids are preferably selected from the group consisting of retinol, retinol esters (e.g., C2-C22 alkyl esters of retinol, including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate), retinal, and / Trans-retinoic acid and / or 13-cis-retinoic acid), or a mixture thereof. In one embodiment, the retinoid is retinyl propionate. The composition may comprise from about 0.001 wt% to about 10 wt%, or from 0.01 wt% to about 1 wt%, or from about 0.01 wt% to about 0.5 wt% of the retinoid of the composition.

Other active agents

Other suitable activators include, but are not limited to, oil regulators, N-acyl amino acid compounds, tanning activators, anti-acne activators, desquamation activators, anti-cellulite activators, chelating agents, skin lightening agents, flavonoids, Antioxidants, antioxidants, antioxidants, antioxidants, antioxidants, antioxidants, antioxidants, antioxidants, antioxidants, antioxidants, antioxidants, antioxidants, antioxidants, . Additional suitable active agents include caffeine; Tea extracts such as white tea extract and green tea extract; Ginseng; Cucumber extract; Rosehip oil; Date palm kernel extract; Witch hazel extract; Dill extract; Tetrahydrocurcumin; Termerone; And other natural and plant compounds. Many of these activators are provided in more detail in US Application Publication Nos. 2006 / 0275237A1, US2004 / 0175347A1 and US2006 / 0263309A1.

Optional ingredient

Particulate matter

The compositions of the present invention may comprise from about 0.001% to about 40% by weight of one or more particulate materials of the composition. Non-limiting examples of suitable powders include inorganic powders (e.g., iron oxide, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silica), organic powders, composite powders, fluorescent emulsifier particles, and mixtures of any of these. Such microparticles may be in the form of, for example, platelet, spherical, elongated or needle-shaped, or irregular; Surface-coated or uncoated; Porous or non-porous; Charged or uncharged; May be added to the present composition as a powder or as a pre-dispersion. In one embodiment, the particulate material is hydrophobic coated.

Suitable organic powder particulate materials include, but are not limited to, methyl silsesquioxane resin microspheres such as Tospearl ^TM 145A, (Toshiba Silicone; microspheres of polymethyl methacrylate, for example, Micropearl ^TM M 100 (Seppic); spherical particles of crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane, such as Trefil ^TM E 506C or Trefil ^TM E 505C (Dow Corning Toray Silicone For example, nylon-12, and Orgasol ^占 2002D Nat C05 (Atochem); polystyrene microspheres such as Dyno Particles (Commercially available as Dynospheres ^TM ) and ethylene acrylate copolymers (marketed under the name FloBead ^™ EA209 (Kobo)), aluminum starch octenyl succinates such as Dry Flo) ^TM (National Sta microchains such as Microthene ^占 FN510-00 (Equistar) and Micropoly ^占 220L (Micro Powders, Inc.)); Polystyrene microspheres such as Mattewax ^TM 511 (Microfowders, Inc.), silicone resins, polymethylsilsesquioxane silicone polymers, L-lauroyllysine, and the like; And mixtures thereof.

The composition of the present invention may further comprise an interference pigment comprising a hydrophobic-modified interference pigment. Here, "interference pigment" means a thin plate-like laminated particle having two or more layers of controlled thickness. The layers have different refractive indices, which typically produce a color that is characteristically reflected from the interference of two, sometimes more, light reflections from different layers of plate-like particles. One example of the interference pigment is a mica laminate as TiO _2, Fe ₂ O _3, silica, about 50-300 nm films of tin oxide, and / or Cr ₂ O _3, and a gloss pigment. The interference pigments may be selected from a wide variety of suppliers, such as Rona (Timiron ^TM and Dichrona ^TM ), Presperse (Flonac ^TM ), Englehard (Duocrome ^TM ), Kobo (SK-45-R and SK-45-G), BASF (Sicopearls ^TM ) and Eckart (Prestige ^TM ) &Lt; / RTI &gt; In one embodiment, the average diameter of the longest side of the individual particles of the interference pigment is less than about 75 micrometers, alternatively less than about 50 micrometers.

Non-limiting examples of suitable colorants include iron oxide, ferric ammonium peroxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium oxide, phthalocyanine blue and green pigments, encapsulated dyes, inorganic white pigments such as TiO ₂ , ZnO or ZrO ₂ , FD & C dyes, D & C dyes, and mixtures thereof.

weapon Sunscreen

The composition may comprise from about 0.001% to about 10%, alternatively from about 0.1% to about 5%, of an inorganic and / or oil-insoluble sunscreen. Non-limiting examples of suitable insoluble sunscreens include methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyl-phenol, titanium dioxide, zinc cerium oxide, zinc oxide, and derivatives and mixtures thereof.

Non-polar Emollient

The compositions of the present invention may comprise from about 2% to about 70%, alternatively from 30% to about 50% of non-polar emollients. Non-limiting examples of suitable non-polar emollients include silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof. Non-polar emollients useful in the present invention include natural, synthetic, saturated, unsaturated, linear, branched, linear, cyclic, aromatic, volatile and non-volatile non-polar emollients, and mixtures thereof.

Suitable non-polar hydrocarbon significant non-limiting examples of mineral oils and branched chain hydrocarbons (for example, trade name buffer methyl (Permethyl) ^TM (buffer methyl Corporation (Permethyl Corporation) ^TM) and iso Parr (Isopar) ^TM (exon (Exxon) ^TM ). &Lt; / RTI &gt; Non-limiting examples of suitable non-polar silicone oils include linear and cyclic dimethicone. Typically commercially available example of this type of silicone is Dow Corning 200 series, Dow Corning 344, and Dow Corning 345 (available all available from Dow Corning Corporation, ^TM); And SF1202, SF1204, and non-ska chamber (Viscasil) ^TM series includes (all available from GE Silicones available ^TM). Additional non-polar silicone oils include, but are not limited to, phenyl methicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, phenyl ethyl dimethicone, hexyl dimethicone, lauryl dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, (E. G., 2 to 30 carbons) and aryl (e. G., Phenyl or styrenyl) substituted silicones, including aryldimethicone, bis-stearyl dimethicone and mixtures thereof.

Hydrophobic component

The compositions of the present invention may comprise from about 2% to about 75%, or from about 5% to about 35%, or from about 10% to about 30%, by weight of the hydrophobic component of the composition. The hydrophobic component can be derived from an animal, plant or petroleum and can be natural or synthetic (i.e., artificial). The preferred hydrophobic component is substantially water insoluble, and more preferably essentially water insoluble. Preferred hydrophobic components are those having a melting point below about 25 占 폚 at about 1 atmospheric pressure. Non-limiting examples of suitable hydrophobic components include mineral oils, petrolatum, esters, hydrocarbons, linear and branched hydrocarbons having about 7 to about 40 carbon atoms, C1-C30 carboxylic acids and C2-C30 dicarboxylic Mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, alkylene glycol esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, propoxylated and ethoxylated derivatives of sugars and related substances Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils, animal fats and oils, polyvinyl alcohols, polyvinyl alcohols, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, An elastomer, and combinations thereof. Such ingredients are provided in greater detail in U.S. Patent 5,997,887 and U.S. Patent Application Publication No. US2005 / 0019356A1.

Saponification  Indices

The emulsifier system herein avoids saponification which is surprisingly manifested by many personal care compositions. As mentioned above, manufacturers have traditionally relied on the use of silicone, specifically dimethicone, to minimize the appearance of films such as soap after application of the cosmetic composition. The saponification effect is measured here through "saponification index ".

The saponification index is based on a 5-point rating according to the comparative examples mentioned below. Approximately 0.5 grams of each sample formulation is applied to the entire user's spool, according to typical applications by the consumer. "5 " is given to the formulation which forms the largest amount of residue such as soap by visual inspection. The remaining preparations are visually compared side by side and given a value on a relative basis, "5" being approximately the same as the formulation which forms the highest such residue, and "0" being substantially free of any residues such as soap .

How to use

The present invention relates to a method for improving or controlling keratinous tissue status. In one aspect, this can be achieved by providing the personal care composition described above and applying the composition to the keratinous tissue that requires treatment. Improved or controlled conditions increase the luminescence or "gloss" of the skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and rough and deep lines, wrinkles, crevices, lumps, and large pores; To thicken the keratinous tissue (e.g., to form the epidermis and / or dermis and / or subcutaneous layer of the skin and, if applicable, the keratinous layer of the nails and herring to reduce skin, hair or nail atrophy); To increase wrinkles (also known as reticular ridges) at the dermal-epidermal boundary; Preventing loss of skin or hair elasticity due to loss, damage and / or inactivation of functional skin elastin resulting in conditions such as, for example, elastic fibrosis, sagging, loss of skin, or hair contraction from deformation; Reduce cellulite; Pigmentation of the skin, hair or nails, for example circles under the eyes, discoloration caused by speckles (e.g., uneven reddish coloration due to eg strawberry), poor coloration, And changing the aging, breakage and hair aging.

Manufacturing method

The personal care composition herein may be formulated according to the following steps. In appropriate containers, the oil (including oil-soluble ingredients) components are combined and mixed with a suitable mixer (e.g. Tekmar RW20DZM) and heated to a temperature of about 70-80 占 폚 with stirring and maintained at this temperature. In a separate, separate vessel, the aquatic (including water-soluble components) components are combined and mixed with an appropriate mixer and heated to a temperature of about 70-80 ° C with stirring and maintained at this temperature. The oil mixture is then added to the water mixture and mixed well to emulsify the combination. The emulsifier system of the oil and water phase components is cooled to about 60 DEG C and then the optional ingredients are added to the emulsion while mixing continuously. The emulsion is further cooled to about 40 占 폚. The resulting emulsion is then milled for about 5 minutes using a suitable mill (e.g., Techma T-25) or until the product is uniform.

Example

The following examples are presented to further illustrate the compositions and methods of the present invention, but should not be construed as limiting the invention as described in the appended claims. In the examples all parts and percentages are by weight and all measurements are obtained at about 23 占 폚 unless otherwise indicated.

Examples I-IX are formed according to the following steps. Xanthan gum and glycerin are pre-mixed in small containers. In a separate, larger vessel, combine Aloe Vera gel 1X organics and water while mixing. The xanthan gum / glycerin pre-mixture is added to the Aloe vera gel 1X organics and water mixture in a larger vessel and mixed until uniform. Then, betaine and sucrose stearate are added to a large vessel while mixing, and the vessel is heated to 80 占 폚. Continue mixing in this container (water) until the contents are homogenous. Helianthus annus seed oil and butyrospermum parkii are added to a separate vessel with mixing and heated to 80 占 폚 (oil phase). When both the water phase and the oil phase are homogeneous and the temperature is 80 DEG C, the oil phase is slowly added to the water phase while mixing. The combined mixture is then homogenized for a suitably estimated period of time. The batch is then allowed to cool. When the temperature of the batch reaches 30-35 占 폚, Geogard 221, Pheohydrane G and Tocobiol are added. It is then mixed until the batch is uniform and further cooled to 30 &lt; 0 &gt; C.

1 Tego (TEGO) ^® Care (CARE) PS, EVO Nick gold Schmitt GmbH obtained from (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH) are possible

2 GEOGARD ^TM 221, available from Lonza

3 available from Pheohydrane G, Codif

4 Toko viol (Tocobiol) ^®, available from available BTSA

5 Sisterna SP70-C, available from Cisterna

6 Lodi care (RHODICARE) ^® T, available from Rhodia Nobeoka care (Rhodia Novecare) possible

7 Betafin BP-20

Comparative Example

The formulation of Example I above is compared to Comparative Samples A, B and C, respectively. Comparative Sample C, which does not contain dimethicone, has a high saponification index when applied to the skin. As demonstrated below, increasing levels of dimethicone reduce the high saponification incidence. Comparative Sample A achieves equivalent to Example I in terms of its saponification index score when it contains 3% dimethicone. Conversely, Example I does not have a silicone emulsifier.

8 Olivem ^® 1000

9 GEORGARD ^TM 221, available from The Lone

10 available from Pho Hidrain G, Codipro

11 Toko rain ^®, available from available BTSA

12 Xiameter PMX-200 silicone FL. 10CS, available from Dow Corning

13 Lodi Care ^® T, Rhodia available from Nobeoka care

14 Beta pin BP-20

It should be understood that the dimensions and values disclosed herein are not strictly limited to the actual values listed. Instead, each dimension is interpreted to mean an enumerated value and a range of functional equivalents around that value, unless otherwise stated. For example, a dimension disclosed as "40 mm" is interpreted to mean "about 40 mm ".

It is to be understood that, where a range of values is enumerated, an integer value between each of the enumerated upper and lower bounds of the range, and each fraction thereof, together with a respective subrange between these values, . The upper and lower limits of any range can be independently included in the range or excluded from the range, and each range including neither or both limits is also included in the present invention. If the value mentioned has an inherent limit, for example if the component can be present in a concentration of from 0 to 100%, or if the pH of the aqueous solution can range from 1 to 14, . It should be understood that, where a value is clearly listed, as well as a range based thereon, a value that is approximately the same or a quantity that is approximately the same as the listed value is also within the scope of the present invention. When a combination is disclosed, each partial combination of the elements of the combination is also specifically disclosed and is within the scope of the present invention. Conversely, where different elements or groups of elements are disclosed, combinations thereof are also disclosed. Where any element of the invention is disclosed as having multiple alternatives, an example of the present invention in which each alternative is excluded singly or in combination with other alternatives is also disclosed; Elements beyond one of the present invention may have this exclusion, and all combinations of elements having such exclusion are disclosed herein.

All documents cited herein, including cross references or related patents or applications, are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety, unless expressly excluded or otherwise limited. The citation of any document shall not be construed as a prior art to the invention disclosed herein or claimed or to be taught, suggested or initiated by the inventor, either alone or in combination with any other references or references It does not. In addition, if the meaning or definition of a term in this document is inconsistent with the meaning or definition of the same term in the document containing the reference, the meaning or definition assigned to that term in this document should be dominant.

While particular embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated and described, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is therefore intended to cover in the appended claims all such changes and modifications as fall within the scope of the invention.

Claims (11)

A cosmetic composition comprising at least one sucrose fatty acid ester and at least one nonionic surfactant, wherein the cosmetic composition is substantially free of silicone emulsifier. The composition of claim 1, wherein the sucrose fatty acid ester is selected from the group consisting of sucrose dilaurate, sucrose distearate, sucrose hexaerate, sucrose hexaoleate / hexa palmitate / hexa stearate, sucrose hexa palmitate , Sucrose myristate, sucrose myristate, sucrose myristate, sucrose oleate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose pentaerythate, sucrose polybehenate, sucrose polylaurate, sucrose polyrinoleate, sucrose poly But are not limited to, oleate, sucrose polystearate, sucrose ricinoleate, sucrose stearate, sucrose tetraisostearate, sucrose tribehenate, sucrose trioleate, sucrostristearate, sucrose cocoate, Sucrose polyacrylate, sucrose polypolyamide, sucrose polyoxyethylene And a personal care composition selected from the group consisting of a mixture thereof. The composition of claim 1, wherein the nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of methyl glucose sesquistearate, methyl glucose ether, methyl glucose ether distearate, PEG-120 methyl glucose diolate, and about 10 to about 20 repeating ethoxy 0.0 &gt; ethoxylated &lt; / RTI &gt; The personal care composition of claim 1, wherein the sucrose fatty acid ester is sucrose stearate and the nonionic surfactant is methylglucose sesquistearate. The personal care composition of claim 1, wherein the sucrose stearate and the methyl glucose sesquistearate are included in a ratio ranging from about 1: 3 to about 3: 1. The personal care composition of claim 1, further comprising an active agent selected from the group consisting of a sugar amine, a vitamin B3 compound, a vitamin, a peptide, a sunscreen, a retinoid, and a mixture thereof. The composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one compound selected from the group consisting of an oil modifier, an N-acyl amino acid compound, a tanning activator, an anti-acne activator, a desquamation activator, an anti- cellulite activator, a chelating agent, a skin lightening agent, a flavonoid, a protease inhibitor, a tyrosinase inhibitor, A composition comprising a non-vitamin antioxidant and a radical scavenger, a preservative, a hair growth regulator, an anti-wrinkle activator, an anti-atrophy activator, a mineral, a phytosterol and / or a plant hormone, an anti-inflammatory agent, an anti- microbial agent, &Lt; / RTI &gt; wherein the at least one active agent is selected from the group consisting of: The composition according to claim 1, which is a group consisting of caffeine, tea extract, ginseng, cucumber extract, rosehip oil, date palm kernel extract, witch hazel extract, dill extract, tetrahydrocurcamine, 0.0 &gt; 1, &lt; / RTI &gt; The personal care composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one particulate material. The personal care composition of claim 1, further comprising at least one emollient. A cosmetic composition comprising an emulsifier pre-mixture consisting of sucrose fatty acid ester and a non-ionic surfactant and substantially free of silicone emulsifier.