CN103705428A - Non-ionic composition used for removing keratin and preparation method of non-ionic composition - Google Patents

Non-ionic composition used for removing keratin and preparation method of non-ionic composition Download PDF

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CN103705428A
CN103705428A CN201410012089.3A CN201410012089A CN103705428A CN 103705428 A CN103705428 A CN 103705428A CN 201410012089 A CN201410012089 A CN 201410012089A CN 103705428 A CN103705428 A CN 103705428A
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nonionic
cutin
ionic
dispelling
skin
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CN103705428B (en
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张鑑锋
王燕娜
李牧
张燎原
李玉兵
汪原
胡国胜
封帅
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SHANGHAI INOHERB COSMETIC CO Ltd
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Abstract

The invention relates to a non-ionic composition used for removing keratin. The non-ionic composition comprises the following components by weight percent: 0.5-5% of non-ionic polyurethane dispersion liquid, 0.5-5% of non-ionic emulsifier, 0.5-5% of plant extract, 5-20% of moisturizer and the balance of deionized water and additive, wherein the non-ionic emulsifier is polyethylene glycol-240/ hexamethylene diisocyanate copolymer dual-decyl tetradecane alcohol polyether-20 ether; active ingredient in the plant extract is gallogen. According to the non-ionic composition, the non-ionic polyurethane dispersion liquid is used as a film-forming agent to be twisted, the non-ionic emulsifier is used for thickening, non-ionic safe raw material is adopted, feeling is close to skin, a zwitterion complex doe not need to be formed, matrix with low pH value is not needed, and the non-ionic composition is safe, non-irritation, bright white in appearance, smooth and elastic, good in use experience feeling, obvious in immediate effect, moderate and safe, and has the effect of softening the keratin for a long time.

Description

Nonionic composition and method of making the same for the cutin of dispelling
Technical field
The invention belongs to household chemicals technical field, be specifically related to a kind of nonionic composition and method of making the same for the cutin of dispelling.
Background technology
The mankind's skin of face cell will experience a generation, aging, the process of dying every 28 days.Healthy and beautiful skin, gathers around the suitable horny layer of regular texture and thickness conventionally.In the normal metabolic processes of skin, when horn cell is after skin bottom forms, can slowly be pushed into horny layer, make its top layer aging, die, peel off, thereby make skin shine brand-new brilliance.
If the cell of dying becomes old cutin, be deposited on outermost skin, cannot normally peel off, form the situation that cutin is too much, horny layer is blocked up, the horn cell of dying, not completely from skin surface peeling, just forms macroscopic scurf, is commonly called as " dead bark ".With advancing age, skin metabolism is slow, and the aged cells of some variations is deposited on epidermis and cannot metabolism goes out, and this process coming off can slow down gradually, and too much cutin has just formed coarse dry epidermis.In addition, fall temperature reduces, air drying, and skin metabolism speed slows down, thereby causes skin hydropenia to cause the dead quickening of epidermis cell, thereby more easily forms dead bark.
If women can not remove old cutin in time, just there will be dim, coarse, the lacklustre phenomenon of skin.And blocked up horny layer also can affect the normal metabolism of skin, make skin problem more serious, allow skin cannot fully absorb skin care products.
If skin clean is not thoroughly, skin care products improper use, fat secretion is superfluous, skin ageing increases the weight of, skin metabolism is bad, and be often in dry, windy environment, more need regular exfoliation, but horny layer is too thin, the easy hydropenia of skin, sensitivity and aging, thus need leniently exfoliation, simultaneously, by keeping the skin wet and vitamins and other nutritious components, make horny layer more healthy.
When the cutin cream of dispelling is better than facial film part containing polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) tearing type and is that PVA facial film is taken off film, can make pore expand, sometimes even take away tiny fine hair, make Dermatochalasia, make antibacterial easily enter people, frequent effect more can make skin elasticity reduce, be unfavorable for supporting and hold, and Exfoliating Scrub cream is to remove the foreign material such as Exfoliating Scrub by rubbing, injured skin, can often not improve looks.This is particularly applicable to drug cosmetics, and it makes medicine energy time action, increases curative effect, and the cutin cream of dispelling is in addition emulsion, approaches skin oil and fat composition, easily absorbs, therefore the skin effect having had.
At present, the product on market has Exfoliating Scrub element, Exfoliating Scrub cream, Exfoliating Scrub gel, Exfoliating Scrub facial film etc., according to formula components, divides, and substantially can be divided three classes:
One, frosted class: the frosted product on market, be mainly by some fine granularity material massage skin, remove old cutin and the interior impurity of pore on skin, promote regenerative cell growth, pachylosis, hydropenia, stiff phenomenon are improved, also can strengthen the absorption of follow-up skin care products.If but used inappropriate frosted granule, also could make skin desiccation, increase the weight of acne; And if frosted composition is really up to the mark, also likely makes horny layer become too thin and be subject to ultraviolet sunburn, accelerate epiderm skin dead bark and come off or damage the consumer of dryness, neutral skin (particularly for).
Two, chemolysis class: fruit acid, salicylic acid, Fructus Chaenomelis ferment, sulfur etc. belong to chemolysis class, can soften cuticle, be adsorbed on the horn cell on top layer, dissolve the constitute between cutin, it is come off in cleaning process, the height of these chemical composition concentration is depended in the effect of cutin of dispelling, and has good deep layer metabolism when concentration is high.This type of cutin cream of dispelling does not have the harsh feeling of scrubbing cream, but the skin that stretches in peeling off cuticular process easily causes skin to follow the string.Very popular fruit acid/salicylic acid exfoliation product once on market, peels off aging cutin layer by acidity, also have and be called " changing skin ", but the consumer of significant proportion feels irritant, even damages skin, can not life-time service.
Three, gel or ointments: product is smeared by hand rubbing can separate out colloid, remove dead bark in the mode of similar " stranding mud ".Exfoliating Scrub cream is mainly with anion (polyacrylic acid, as block ripple class) with composite the forming of cation (Dodecyl trimethyl ammonium chloride/hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride), polyacrylic acid working concentration higher (approximately 3%) wherein, and neutralize without alkali, pH is about 3.5, the same with fruit acid more irritant.Consumer can experience, and by homogeneous transparent material body, at " the seemingly-dead skin volume " that use position to rub, is zwitterion complex (coalescent product) in fact.Because zwitterion compatibility exists taboo, the cation that requires to select the anion of high molecular and have certain solubility, and formula can reach the value preserving phase of 2 years at ambient temperature.
Plant extract (Chinese herbal medicine) also has application in the keratose of dispelling, and more particularly has the Chinese medicine that promotes skin renewal, putrefaction-removing granulation-promoting.Such as: the ellagic acid containing in Galla Chinensis extract etc.
Ellagic acid claims again tannic acid, tannin, is a kind of polyphenolic substance, is present in the plant tissues such as Galla Chinensis, Fructus Kaki, Folium Camelliae sinensis, coffee, Punica granatum L., Fructus Vitis viniferae, and these plants are not yet period of maturation ellagic acid content is especially high.For yellow or light brown lightweight are without crystallinity powder or scale, soluble in water and ethanol, is also soluble in glycerol.Ellagic acid has astriction, can make the thick pore of skin shrink, tighten and reduce wrinkle, makes skin show fine and smooth outward appearance.Ellagic acid has the ultraviolet effect of absorption, and absorbance can reach more than 98%; Ellagic acid can also restraint of tyrosinase and catalatic activity, can make melanin reduction-decolor, and therefore, ellagic acid has sun-proof and effect skin whitening for cosmetics.But on market, the keratose of dispelling that contains ellagic acid is but very limited.
In a word, the product of removing cutin should adopt gentle substrate, not only can allow consumer massage gently or coat very thin one deck as facial film, short time sealing pore, make skin insulation, moisturizing, strengthen the microcirculation of blood capillary, also can allow the nutrient substance such as Chinese herbal medicine effectively infilter skin, and absorbed well by epidermis cell, reach the effect of promoting skin function.And have gentle hands, gently crumple afterwards, utilize high molecular cohesiveness in Exfoliating Scrub cream to form agglomerate, take away surperficial dead bark and foul, thereby reach the effect of clean skin, cosmetology.
Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved by this invention is to overcome the deficiencies in the prior art, and a kind of nonionic compositions for the cutin of dispelling is provided.
Another technical problem to be solved by this invention is to provide the preparation method of the above-mentioned nonionic compositions for the cutin of dispelling.
The present invention solves the problems of the technologies described above taked technical scheme: a kind of nonionic compositions for the cutin of dispelling, take nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid as film former, and form nonionic system by nonionic emulsifier thickening, comprise by weight percentage following component:
Nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid 0.5~5%
Nonionic emulsifier 0.5~5%
Plant extract 0.5~5%
Wetting agent 5~20%
Surplus is deionized water and auxiliary agent, wherein, described nonionic emulsifier be Polyethylene Glycol-240/ hexamethylene diisocyanate copolymer two-decyl tetradecanol polyethers-20 ether, the effective ingredient in described plant extract is ellagic acid.
The nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid that the present invention adopts has following several respects characteristic as film former:
(1) viscosity of aqueous polyurethane does not have notable difference with the change of polymer molecular weight, even if intramolecule forms cross-linked structure also without impact, thus can make the right increase of polymer poly, to improve cohesive strength; And the viscosity of solvent based polymer is exponential relationship with the increase of molecular weight and rises, when crosslinked, easily produce gel.
(2) under identical solid content, the viscosity of solvent borne polyurethane obviously rises with the increase of solid content, and the viscosity of aqueous polyurethane is generally low than solvent type, and aqueous polyurethane disperses particle diameter hour viscosity to become large.
(3) viscosity of solvent based polymer can be adjusted by controlling solid content or quantity of solvent, and the viscosity of aqueous polyurethane need be adjusted with thickening agent, makes like this in system water soluble ingredient too much, reduces resistance to water.
Concrete, nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid of the present invention can for the product of the Baycnsan of the Beyer Co., Ltd trade mark (as ,
Figure 752680DEST_PATH_IMAGE004
with
Figure 2014100120893100002DEST_PATH_IMAGE006
dispersion), it, containing cosolvent and antiseptic, is not very pliable and tough film former, and the thin film becoming during for cosmetics is not only ventilative, not tight, and can not be clamminess, and improves the comfort level that product is used, after use, and skin smooth, softness, more aobvious elasticity.But the purposes of this product in the cutin compositions of dispelling not yet reported.
Polyethylene Glycol-240/HDI copolymer that the present invention adopts is two-and decyl tetradecanol polyethers-20 ether is white-faint yellow chip solid, in molecule, there is hydrophobic part and hydrophilic segment, be dissolved into become after water the fit intensity of meeting that micellelike can fit reach thickening effect micelle a little less than, but the ability of can closing is again stronger, thereby is formed with elastic gel.Its advantage is without neutralization, and good film-forming property can form the smooth skinfeel as hyaluronic acid on skin; Resistance to polyelectrolyte; Still can stable homogeneous when high temperature resistant, resistance to heating, high viscosity; Have responsive especially shear shinning characteristic, thixotropy is splendid, energy Fast Restoration; Good elasticity, good stability, also possesses suitable patience to inorganic salt.
Concrete, Polyethylene Glycol-240/HDI copolymer of the present invention is two-decyl tetradecanol polyethers-20 ether can be the ADEKA(Ai Dike of Amada Co., Ltd.) nonionic stable emulsifying thickening agent product (as ADEKA NOL GT-700).
Because polyurethane can be used as sunscreen product film former for Residual-type product, so security performance is secure, feel and the skin of polyurethane are close, soft nature, " stranding mud " out be smaller product as scurf, the elongated coil rubbing from zwitterion system volume is obviously different.But nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid does not have thickening power substantially, different from common polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), and Polyethylene Glycol-240/HDI copolymer two-decyl tetradecanol polyethers-20 ether is nonionic emulsifier, the rear accident of being combined with nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid finds that there is good thickening power, and viscosity is directly proportional to concentration, under higher concentration, produce good elasticity, so the compositions that both form is suitable in cutin dispelling cosmetics very much.
Nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid preferably accounts for 0.5~2% of composition weight percentage ratio.
Nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid more preferably accounts for 1~2% of composition weight percentage ratio.
Nonionic emulsifier preferably accounts for 1~3% of composition weight percentage ratio.
Nonionic emulsifier more preferably accounts for 1.5~2.5% of composition weight percentage ratio.
Plant extract preferably accounts for 1~3% of composition weight percentage ratio.
Wetting agent preferably accounts for 10~15% of composition weight percentage ratio.
On the basis of such scheme, described plant extract is Galla Chinensis extract.Galla Chinensis extract adopts conventional method to extract, for example, adopt soak with ethanol to extract rear upper macroporous adsorbent resin, repeatedly after eluting, obtains Galla Chinensis extract.
On the basis of such scheme, described wetting agent is one or more the combination in glycerol, sorbitol, 1,3 butylene glycol.
On the basis of such scheme, described auxiliary agent comprises essence, antiseptic, disodiumedetate (EDETATE SODIUM).
Wetting agent can be for accounting for the glycerol of compositions 6~10% and the combination that accounts for the 1,3 butylene glycol of compositions 3~7%.
The present invention solves the problems of the technologies described above another taked technical scheme and is to provide the dispel preparation method of cutin compositions of above-mentioned aqueous polyurethane, comprises the steps:
Step 1: nonionic emulsifier is added in deionized water, be warming up to 80~85 ℃, be uniformly mixed 15~20 minutes, be cooled to 40~45 ℃; Nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid is mixed with wetting agent, be heated to 40~45 ℃, be uniformly mixed;
Step 2: two kinds of mixture that step 1 is obtained are uniformly mixed, and are uniformly dispersed;
Step 3: add plant extract and auxiliary agent, dispersed with stirring, is down to room temperature, cutin compositions obtains dispelling.
The invention has the beneficial effects as follows:
The present invention's cutin compositions of should dispelling be take nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid as film former, rub mud with the hands, and carry out thickening by nonionic emulsifier, adopt the safe raw material of nonionic, feel very close with skin, such raw material usage is recommended different from supplier, do not need to use anion and cation to form zwitterion complex (coalescent product), do not need the substrate of low pH value, safe and non-stimulating, outward appearance brilliant white, soft and smooth flexible, experience is felt good, and immediate effect is obvious, gentle safety, has long-term horny layer softening effect.Be aided with plant extract simultaneously, further improve the cutin effect of dispelling, also make product accord with the demands of the market.
The specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with embodiment, the present invention is described in further detail, but embodiments of the present invention are not limited to this.
Figure 2014100120893100002DEST_PATH_IMAGE007
preparation technology:
Step 1: nonionic emulsifier and EDETATE SODIUM by A in mutually add in deionized water, are warming up to 80~85 ℃, are uniformly mixed 15~20 minutes, guarantee to be uniformly dispersed, and rotating speed 150r/min stirs borehole cooling to 40~45 ℃; B phase nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid is mixed with wetting agent, be heated to 40~45 ℃, be uniformly mixed, be uniformly dispersed;
Step 2: B phase mixture is slowly added in A phase mixture, be uniformly mixed, be uniformly dispersed;
Step 3: add plant extract and auxiliary agent, dispersed with stirring, is down to room temperature, slowly stirs discharging after 30 minutes, and cutin compositions obtains dispelling.
Experimental result is in Table 2.
Figure 2014100120893100002DEST_PATH_IMAGE008
By embodiment N1~N3 and N4~N6, relatively can be found, when not adding nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid, the effect of the compositions dead bark of dispelling useless, illustrates that nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid and nonionic emulsifier cooperatively interact can realize the dispel object of cutin of the present invention.
First embodiment N4~N6 has investigated the addition of nonionic emulsifier, finds more moderately in integral formula at the addition of 2% left and right, and the material body stickiness of making is moderate, is the soft colloid of brilliant white.The investigation of in addition nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid having been added finds, according to the amount that rubs dead bark, the dead bark rubbing when addition is less is partially slow, and the dead bark that addition rubs when more is on the high side.But embodiment has just provided the better amount ranges of nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid and nonionic emulsifier, and in the zone of reasonableness of claim, compositions all has the cutin effect of reasonably dispelling, and can regulate according to client's different demands.
security test
animal skin irritant experiment method of testing
Security performance test aspect, patent method of testing is deferred to national cosmetic hygienic practice about the requirement of skin irritation test, and animal cuticle is carried out irritant experiment and then marks and weigh gentle performance and the security performance of product.According to animal skin irritant experiment standards of grading contrast figure, mark is higher, and zest is larger, and scoring is higher than 1 timesharing, and human experimentation has sensation, and therefore marking requirement must be higher than 1 minute.By test, experiment final sample is 0 minute, non-stimulated.
stability test:
The test of patent sample stability is followed national cosmetic hygienic practice about the investigation requirement of facial cleaning cream stability
1. test sample: be numbered 6 samples of N1~N6, be contained in respectively in 6 airtight Clear glass bottles and jars.
2. testing time: on October 18, (3 months) 18 days~2013 July in 2013.
3. test condition: put into refrigerator, room temperature and constant incubator (temperature is shown in result table 3).
4. respectively at the 15th day, 30 days, 60 days, 90 days, observe phenomenons such as whether having spoiled, thinning of variable color is thick, layering for four times.
Test result: ("-" represents that mastic is normal, exquisiteness and homogeneous; "+" expression material body surface is seen and is sent out slightly).
Figure 2014100120893100002DEST_PATH_IMAGE009
Material body stability has all been passed through test in three months, and embodiment N1~N6 shows well at each temperature, does not occur caking, sends out the wild effects such as thick, variable color is spoiled, reaches commercially available prod standard.
conclusion
The cutin compositions character of dispelling of the present invention is gentle, can thoroughly remove dead bark, dirt on face and body skin, has the effect of facial deep layer cleaning and nursing, non-stimulated, can life-time service, and stable in properties, technique is simple, and easy operating is suitable for large production.
Above-described content is only the preferably embodiment of the present invention under conceiving, and changes, modifies, combination, simplifies according to any equivalence of technical scheme of the present invention, all should be equivalent substitute mode, within all belonging to protection scope of the present invention.

Claims (5)

1. for a nonionic compositions for the cutin of dispelling, it is characterized in that: take nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid as film former, and form nonionic system by nonionic emulsifier thickening, comprise by weight percentage following component:
Nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid 0.5~5%
Nonionic emulsifier 0.5~5%
Plant extract 0.5~5%
Wetting agent 5~20%
Surplus is deionized water and auxiliary agent, wherein, described nonionic emulsifier be Polyethylene Glycol-240/ hexamethylene diisocyanate copolymer two-decyl tetradecanol polyethers-20 ether, the effective ingredient in described plant extract is ellagic acid.
2. the nonionic compositions for the cutin of dispelling according to claim 1, is characterized in that: described plant extract is Galla Chinensis extract.
3. the nonionic compositions for the cutin of dispelling according to claim 1 and 2, is characterized in that: described wetting agent is one or more the combination in glycerol, sorbitol, 1,3 butylene glycol.
4. the nonionic compositions for the cutin of dispelling according to claim 3, is characterized in that: described auxiliary agent comprises essence, antiseptic, disodiumedetate.
5. according to the preparation method of the nonionic compositions for the cutin of dispelling one of claim 1 to 4 Suo Shu, it is characterized in that comprising the steps:
Step 1: nonionic emulsifier is added in deionized water, be warming up to 80~85 ℃, be uniformly mixed 15~20 minutes, be cooled to 40~45 ℃; Nonionic polyurethane dispersion liquid is mixed with wetting agent, be heated to 40~45 ℃, be uniformly mixed;
Step 2: two kinds of mixture that step 1 is obtained are uniformly mixed, and are uniformly dispersed;
Step 3: add plant extract and auxiliary agent, dispersed with stirring, is down to room temperature, cutin compositions obtains dispelling.
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CN104523490A (en) * 2014-12-11 2015-04-22 广州栋方日化有限公司 Exfoliate composition with whitening and moisturizing effects and preparation method of exfoliate composition
CN106902033A (en) * 2015-12-22 2017-06-30 伽蓝(集团)股份有限公司 A kind of scrub cosmetics and preparation method thereof
CN107028807A (en) * 2015-07-24 2017-08-11 陈海 Remove dirt and waste and old cutin moist type shower cleaning products and preparation method thereof
CN109010171A (en) * 2018-08-30 2018-12-18 王金福 A kind of bathing skin cleaner
CN110022845A (en) * 2016-12-15 2019-07-16 莱雅公司 Foamable composite
CN110123682A (en) * 2019-04-03 2019-08-16 广州市拉凯尔干细胞研究所 A kind of personal care articles preparation method with inhibition propionibacterium acnes
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CN111067836A (en) * 2020-01-11 2020-04-28 广州品爵生物科技有限公司 Exfoliating gel and preparation method thereof
CN114668700A (en) * 2021-04-27 2022-06-28 山东华中生物科技有限公司 Squalene gel and preparation method thereof

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Cited By (11)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN104523490A (en) * 2014-12-11 2015-04-22 广州栋方日化有限公司 Exfoliate composition with whitening and moisturizing effects and preparation method of exfoliate composition
CN107028807A (en) * 2015-07-24 2017-08-11 陈海 Remove dirt and waste and old cutin moist type shower cleaning products and preparation method thereof
CN106902033A (en) * 2015-12-22 2017-06-30 伽蓝(集团)股份有限公司 A kind of scrub cosmetics and preparation method thereof
CN110022845A (en) * 2016-12-15 2019-07-16 莱雅公司 Foamable composite
US11179307B2 (en) 2016-12-15 2021-11-23 L'oreal Foamable composition
CN110022845B (en) * 2016-12-15 2022-10-04 莱雅公司 Foamable compositions
CN109010171A (en) * 2018-08-30 2018-12-18 王金福 A kind of bathing skin cleaner
CN110123682A (en) * 2019-04-03 2019-08-16 广州市拉凯尔干细胞研究所 A kind of personal care articles preparation method with inhibition propionibacterium acnes
CN110755301A (en) * 2019-12-05 2020-02-07 广州恋曲生物科技有限公司 Foundation cream and preparation method thereof
CN111067836A (en) * 2020-01-11 2020-04-28 广州品爵生物科技有限公司 Exfoliating gel and preparation method thereof
CN114668700A (en) * 2021-04-27 2022-06-28 山东华中生物科技有限公司 Squalene gel and preparation method thereof

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