CN103635177A - 口红 - Google Patents
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- Publication number
- CN103635177A CN103635177A CN201280028968.4A CN201280028968A CN103635177A CN 103635177 A CN103635177 A CN 103635177A CN 201280028968 A CN201280028968 A CN 201280028968A CN 103635177 A CN103635177 A CN 103635177A
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- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- lipstick
- weight
- oil
- weighing scale
- anhydrous
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A61K8/678—Tocopherol, i.e. vitamin E
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
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Abstract
公开了包含活性成分的组合的无水口红以及包含甘油山嵛酸酯/二十烷二酸酯的皮肤病学上可接受的载体,所述活性成分包括毛马齿苋提取物、葵花油、霍霍巴酯、芒果脂和生育酚。
Description
相关申请的交叉引用
本申请要求2011年5月13日提交的美国临时申请61/486,061号的权益。参考申请的内容通过引用并入。
背景技术
A.技术领域
本发明一般涉及基于嘴唇的组合物,例如口红。具体地,本发明涉及一种基于嘴唇的组合物,其具有给嘴唇着色、保护嘴唇免受水分损失和自由基损害以及增加嘴唇中的胶原蛋白和透明质酸生成的能力。这可以有利地导致嘴唇具有更饱满的外观同时减少嘴唇上存在的细纹的外观。
B.相关技术说明
之前对基于嘴唇的产品,例如口红的尝试缺乏直染性、趋于在嘴唇上变干和团聚或开裂、或者缺乏有效地处理或预防嘴唇相关的状况(例如干燥的或龟裂的嘴唇,嘴唇皱纹等)的能力。解决这些问题的尝试已经导致难以涂在嘴唇上、具有令人不愉快的触觉性质(例如厚重的、油腻的、发粘的等)以及对于嘴唇相关的状况具有有限的有益效果的制剂。这导致嘴唇具有令人不愉快的美学外观和有条纹的/不均匀的着色。
发明内容
本发明人发现一种上述问题的解决方案。该解决方案导致是直染的、不在嘴唇上淤积、易于涂抹并且具有有效量的活性物的基于嘴唇的产品,例如口红,以用于润湿嘴唇、处理干燥的、皲裂的或龟裂的嘴唇以及减少或预防嘴唇皱纹的出现。所述基于嘴唇的产品还具有舒适的触觉性质,以及在嘴唇上提供美学观点上令人愉快的视觉外观。这通过以下成分的独特组合来实现:包含毛马齿苋(Portulaca pilosa)提取物、葵花油、霍霍巴酯、芒果脂和生育酚的活性成分的组合;以及包含甘油山嵛酸酯/二十烷二酸酯的皮肤病学上可接受的载体。在具体的方面,组合物还可以包含能够进一步增强基于嘴唇的组合物的功效的肽。另外,毛马齿苋提取物可以是基于油的提取物。口红可以包含水或可以是无水的。口红可以是半固体或固体的形式。口红可以具有53至55℃的滴点和49至51℃的熔点。在具体的实例中,皮肤病学上可接受的载体还包含橙皮蜡、白池花(Limanthesalba)籽油、牛油果(Butyrospermum parkii)、澳洲坚果油酸乙酯、乙酸异丁酸蔗糖酯、葵花蜡、小烛树蜡、蜂蜡、二氧化钛、绢云母或蓖麻油、或其任意组合、或所有这些成分。口红还可以包含着色剂或染料以获得希望的颜色或色调。在某些方面,口红包含按口红重量计10%至15%的葵花油、按口红重量计10%至15%的霍霍巴酯、按口红重量计3%至7%的芒果脂、按口红重量计0.1%至1%的生育酚和按口红重量计0.1%至1%的甘油山嵛酸酯/二十烷二酸酯。口红还可以包含按口红重量计1%至3%的橙皮蜡、按口红重量计3%至7%的白池花籽油和牛油果的混合物、按口红重量计3%和7%的澳洲坚果油酸乙酯、按口红重量计2%至5%的乙酸异丁酸蔗糖酯、按口红重量计2%至5%的葵花蜡、按口红重量计3%至7%的小烛树蜡、按口红重量计2%至5%的蜂蜡、按口红重量计5%至10%的二氧化钛、按口红重量计2%至5%的绢云母和按口红重量计13%至17%的蓖麻油。在一些实例中,口红不包含以下成分:脂肪酸;聚酰胺;和/或聚甘油(10)山嵛酸酯/二十烷二酸酯。口红可以成形为细长的形状或棒,并且可以在具有主体和盖子的容器(例如口红容器)内部。
在一个具体的实例中,公开了一种无水口红,其包含11重量%至13重量%的葵花油、12重量%至14重量%的霍霍巴酯、4重量%至6重量%的芒果脂、0.1重量%至1重量%的生育酚、0.1重量%至1重量%的甘油山嵛酸酯/二十烷二酸酯、1重量%至3重量%的橙皮蜡、4重量%至6重量%的白池花籽油和牛油果的混合物、5重量%至7重量%的澳洲坚果油酸乙酯、2重量%至3重量%的乙酸异丁酸蔗糖酯、2重量%至4重量%的葵花蜡、4重量%至6重量%的小烛树蜡、2重量%至4重量%的蜂蜡、7重量%至10重量%的二氧化钛、2重量%至4重量%的绢云母和13重量%至17重量%的蓖麻油。口红可以是无水的或可以包含水。口红还可以包含肽以增强口红的功效。口红可以具有53℃至55℃的滴点和49℃至51℃的熔点。
本发明的口红可以每天施用至少一次、两次、三次、四次或更多次。在施用后,口红可以在皮肤上保持至少10、20、30或60分钟,1、2、3、4、5、6、7、8、9、10、11或12小时,或更久。口红还可以包含本说明书中所公开的化妆品和/或药物成分中的任何一种或任意组合。例如,口红可以包含来自以下成分的至少一种、两种、三种、四种、五种、六种和/或七种成分:(1)保湿剂;(2)抗氧化剂;(3)结构化剂;(4)含有硅酮的化合物;(5)精油;(6)增稠剂;和/或(7)防腐剂。
还期望可以选择口红组合物的粘度以达到希望的结果,例如根据希望的组合物类型,该组合物的粘度可以从约1cps到远超过1百万cps,或者是其中可得到的任意范围或整数(举例来说,如在25℃下在布氏粘度计上用TC轴以2.5rpm的转速测量的2cps、3、4、5、6、7、8、9、10、20、30、40、50、60、70、80、90、100、200、300、400、500、600、700、800、900、1000、2000、3000、4000、5000、6000、7000、8000、9000、10000、20000、30000、40000、50000、60000、70000、80000、90000、100000、200000、300000、400000、500000、600000、700000、800000、900000、1000000cps等)。在非限制性方面中组合物可以具有大约6至大约9的pH值。在其他的方面,pH可以是1、2、3、4、5、6、7、8、9、10、11、12、13和14。在其他的方面,组合物可以是具有1、5、10、15、20、25、30、35、40、45、50、55或更大的防晒因子(SPF)的遮光剂。
口红可以具有可化妆用或可药用的触感,例如在施用到皮肤、如手部皮肤后非油性、非油腻、非粘性、不发粘和/或丝滑的触感。
还公开了一种用于润湿嘴唇,处理干燥的、龟裂的或皲裂的嘴唇或唇红缘中的皮肤或者预防或减少嘴唇皱纹或唇红缘中皱纹或唇红缘中红斑(例如红色或发炎的皮肤)出现的方法,包括对干燥的、龟裂的或皲裂的嘴唇或者需要预防或者减少嘴唇皱纹的皮肤局部施用本申请所公开的口红中的任一种或本申请所公开的混合物中的任一种,其中所述组合物或混合物的局部施用润湿嘴唇,处理干燥的、龟裂的或皲裂的嘴唇或者预防或减少嘴唇皱纹的出现。所述组合物可以直接施用到嘴唇上,或可以施用到其上已经施用过口红或唇膏的嘴唇上。基于嘴唇的组合物还可以用于通过局部施用所述组合物到需要增加的胶原蛋白生成和透明质酸生成的嘴唇以增加嘴唇中胶原蛋白和透明质酸的生成。
“唇红缘”指在嘴唇(红色的)和相邻普通皮肤之间一般明显的界线。它表示表皮从高角质化的外部皮肤到较低角质化的内部皮肤的变化。它没有皮脂腺、汗腺或毛发。
“局部施用”是指施用或涂抹组合物到嘴唇或角质组织的表面上。“局部皮肤用组合物”包含适合在嘴唇或角质组织上局部施用的组合物。这类组合物一般为皮肤病学上可接受的,这是因为当施用到嘴唇或皮肤时,其不具有异常毒性、不相容性、不稳定性、过敏反应等。本发明的局部皮肤护理用组合物可以具有选定的粘度,以避免施用到皮肤后明显的滴落或淤积。
“角质组织”包括配置作为哺乳类最外保护层的含有角质的层,并且包括但不限于嘴唇、皮肤、毛发和指甲。
术语“大约”或“约”定义为如本领域普通技术人员所理解的接近于,并且在一个非限制性实施方案中该术语定义为在10%以内,优选地在5%以内,更优选地在1%以内,最优选地在0.5%以内。
术语“基本上”及其变体定义为如本领域普通技术人员所理解的大部分但不必全部地为指定的事物,并且在一个非限制性实施方案中基本上涉及的范围在10%以内、在5%以内、在1%以内或在0.5%以内。
术语“抑制”或“减少”或这些术语的任何变体当在权利要求和/或说明书中使用时,包括为了达到预期结果的任何可测量的减少或完全抑制。
术语“有效的”,作为本说明书和/或权利要求所使用的术语,表示适于实现希望的、期望的或预期的结果。
如本说明书和权利要求所用的,词语“包含”、“具有”、“包括”或“含有”是包括性的或开放式的,并且不排除附加的、未列举的要素或方法步骤。
使用的口红、组合物和方法可以“包含”、“基本上由...组成”或“由...组成”任何在本说明书全文所公开的成分或步骤。对于过渡短语“基本上由...组成”,在一个非限制性方面,在本说明书中所公开的口红和方法的基本的和新的特性包括口红润湿嘴唇同时在嘴唇上保留较长时间(至少1小时)的能力。
本发明的其他目的、特征和优点通过下面的详细描述会变得明显。然而,应理解详细的描述和实施例表明本发明的特定实施方案时仅以举例说明给出。另外,期望在通过该详细描述,本发明的精神和范围内的变化和修改对于本领域技术人员会变得明显。
示例性实施方案的描述
A.基于嘴唇的制剂
本发明的独特方面之一是具有舒适的触觉性质以及有效的润湿和抗老化能力的基于嘴唇的制剂,例如无水口红。组合物的有效性在于葵花油、霍霍巴酯、芒果脂、生育酚和毛马齿苋提取物的协同组合。国际化妆品成分词典和手册(International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook)第12版(2008)提供这些成分及其可获得的商业来源。对于毛马齿苋提取物,该成分来自毛马齿苋植物,所述毛马齿苋植物为一种马齿苋科(Portulacaceae)中的开花植物。该植物原产于美国。其为具有绿叶的肉质植物,并能够生长粉色的花。可以通过使用全草或植物的部分(例如叶、根、花等)来获得毛马齿苋的基于油的提取物。在具体的实施方案中,使用全草。例如,可以浸软植物(或植物的任何部分)并使其经受基于油的溶液以获得提取物。然后提取物进行过滤,并包装用于储存,或被添加到本发明的组合物中。或者,可以从商业来源(例如,具有这种提取物的产品可以从Sederma(法国)以商品名VolulipTM购得,在本说明书实施例部分的示例性制剂中使用所述产品)购买提取物。VolulipTM还包含三肽(棕榈酰基-KMO2K)、鲸蜡硬脂醇乙基己酸酯、失水山梨醇异硬脂酸酯和蔗糖椰油酸酯。
如实例中所示,对于活性物可接受的皮肤病学上可接受的载剂可以包括甘油山嵛酸酯/二十烷二酸酯,其为甘油与山嵛酸的酯和甘油与二十烷二酸的酯的混合物。其也可以从许多来源商业购得(参见国际化妆品成分词典和手册,第12版(2008),第1卷,第1065页)。发现该成分以增加稳定性同时提供美学观点上令人愉悦的触觉性质的方式结构化本发明的口红。皮肤病学上可接受的载剂还可以包括橙皮蜡、白池花籽油、牛油果、澳洲坚果油酸乙酯、乙酸异丁酸蔗糖酯、葵花蜡、小烛树蜡、蜂蜡、二氧化钛、绢云母和蓖麻油,所有的所述成分都为本发明的口红提供额外的结构化益处。
实施例部分的实施例1、表3提供制备具有本说明书全文所述的特性的口红的一种非限制性方式。
尽管在说明书全文描述了具体的实施方式和量,但是预期本发明的组合物可以包含这些成分连同在本说明书全文所述的附加成分的任意数量的组合。任意成分在组合物中的浓度都可以改变。例如,在非限制性实施方案中,组合物在其最终形式中可以包含、基本上由以下组分组成或由以下组分组成:例如至少大约0.0001%、0.0002%、0.0003%、0.0004%、0.0005%、0.0006%、0.0007%、0.0008%、0.0009%、0.0010%、0.0011%、0.0012%、0.0013%、0.0014%、0.0015%、0.0016%、0.0017%、0.0018%、0.0019%、0.0020%、0.0021%、0.0022%、0.0023%、0.0024%、0.0025%、0.0026%、0.0027%、0.0028%、0.0029%、0.0030%、0.0031%、0.0032%、0.0033%、0.0034%、0.0035%、0.0036%、0.0037%、0.0038%、0.0039%、0.0040%、0.0041%、0.0042%、0.0043%、0.0044%、0.0045%、0.0046%、0.0047%、0.0048%、0.0049%、0.0050%、0.0051%、0.0052%、0.0053%、0.0054%、0.0055%、0.0056%、0.0057%、0.0058%、0.0059%、0.0060%、0.0061%、0.0062%、0.0063%、0.0064%、0.0065%、0.0066%、0.0067%、0.0068%、0.0069%、0.0070%、0.0071%、0.0072%、0.0073%、0.0074%、0.0075%、0.0076%、0.0077%、0.0078%、0.0079%、0.0080%、0.0081%、0.0082%、0.0083%、0.0084%、0.0085%、0.0086%、0.0087%、0.0088%、0.0089%、0.0090%、0.0091%、0.0092%、0.0093%、0.0094%、0.0095%、0.0096%、0.0097%、0.0098%、0.0099%、0.0100%、0.0200%、0.0250%、0.0275%、0.0300%、0.0325%、0.0350%、0.0375%、0.0400%、0.0425%、0.0450%、0.0475%、0.0500%、0.0525%、0.0550%、0.0575%、0.0600%、0.0625%、0.0650%、0.0675%、0.0700%、0.0725%、0.0750%、0.0775%、0.0800%、0.0825%、0.0850%、0.0875%、0.0900%、0.0925%、0.0950%、0.0975%、0.1000%、0.1250%、0.1500%、0.1750%、0.2000%、0.2250%、0.2500%、0.2750%、0.3000%、0.3250%、0.3500%、0.3750%、0.4000%、0.4250%、0.4500%、0.4750%、0.5000%、0.5250%、0.0550%、0.5750%、0.6000%、0.6250%、0.6500%、0.6750%、0.7000%、0.7250%、0.7500%、0.7750%、0.8000%、0.8250%、0.8500%、0.8750%、0.9000%、0.9250%、0.9500%、0.9750%、1.0%、1.1%、1.2%、1.3%、1.4%、1.5%、1.6%、1.7%、1.8%、1.9%、2.0%、2.1%、2.2%、2.3%、2.4%、2.5%、2.6%、2.7%、2.8%、2.9%、3.0%、3.1%、3.2%、3.3%、3.4%、3.5%、3.6%、3.7%、3.8%、3.9%、4.0%、4.1%、4.2%、4.3%、4.4%、4.5%、4.6%、4.7%、4.8%、4.9%、5.0%、5.1%、5.2%、5.3%、5.4%、5.5%、5.6%、5.7%、5.8%、5.9%、6.0%、6.1%、6.2%、6.3%、6.4%、6.5%、6.6%、6.7%、6.8%、6.9%、7.0%、7.1%、7.2%、7.3%、7.4%、7.5%、7.6%、7.7%、7.8%、7.9%、8.0%、8.1%、8.2%、8.3%、8.4%、8.5%、8.6%、8.7%、8.8%、8.9%、9.0%、9.1%、9.2%、9.3%、9.4%、9.5%、9.6%、9.7%、9.8%、9.9%、10%、11%、12%、13%、14%、15%、16%、17%、18%、19%、20%、21%、22%、23%、24%、25%、26%、27%、28%、29%、30%、35%、40%、45%、50%、60%、65%、70%、75%、80%、85%、90%、95%或99%或其间可得到的任意范围。在非限制性方面,百分比可以按整个组合物的重量或体积进行计算。本领域普通技术人员会理解,浓度可以根据给定组合物中成分的添加、替换和/或减少而改变。
本发明公开的组合物还可以包含各种抗氧化剂以阻止一种或更多种组分的氧化。另外,可以通过防腐剂来预防微生物的作用,所述防腐剂例如各种抗细菌剂和抗真菌剂,包括但不限于对羟基苯甲酸酯(例如对羟基苯甲酸甲酯、对羟基苯甲酸丙酯)、氯丁醇、苯酚、山梨酸、硫汞撒或其组合)。
除了本发明的口红和唇彩之外,活性成分的组合还可以用在其他化妆品和皮肤病学上可接受的制剂中。适宜载剂的非限制性实例包括霜剂、洗剂和软膏剂。变体和其它合适的载剂对于熟练技术人员是明显的,并且适用于本发明。在某些方面,重要的是化合物、成分和试剂的浓度和组合选择为使得该组合是化学相容的并且不形成从最终产品中沉淀出来的复合物。例如,这类附加的制剂可以润湿皮肤、增加皮肤中胶原蛋白的生成、增加皮肤中透明质酸的生成、减少细纹和皱纹的出现以及使皮肤(例如松弛或下垂的皮肤)紧致。
B.附加成分
本发明的口红、唇彩和组合物还可以包含附加成分,例如化妆品成分和药物活性成分。这些附加成分的非限制性实例在以下小节中进行描述。
1.化妆品成分
CTFA国际化妆品成分词典和手册(2004和2008)描述了多种多样的可在本发明的情况下使用的非限制性化妆品成分。这些成分种类的实例包括:芳香剂(人造的和天然的)、染料和着色成分(例如蓝色1号、蓝色1号色淀、红色40号、二氧化钛、D&C蓝色4号、D&C绿色5号、D&C橙色4号、D&C红色17号、D&C红色33号、D&C紫色2号、D&C黄色10号和D&C黄色11号)、吸附剂、润滑剂、溶剂、保湿剂(包括例如润肤剂、湿润剂、成膜剂、闭塞剂和影响皮肤天然保湿机制的试剂)、拒水剂、紫外吸收剂(物理和化学吸收剂,例如对氨基苯甲酸(“PABA”)和相应的PABA衍生物、二氧化钛、氧化锌等)、精油、维生素(例如A、B、C、D、E和K)、微量金属(例如锌、钙和硒)、抗刺激物(例如类固醇和非类固醇类抗炎药)、植物提取物(例如芦荟、柑橘、黄瓜提取物、银杏、人参和迷迭香)、抗菌剂、抗氧化剂(例如BHT和生育酚)、螯合剂(例如乙二胺四乙酸二钠和乙二胺四乙酸四钠)、防腐剂(例如对羟基苯甲酸甲酯和对羟基苯甲酸丙酯)、pH调节剂(例如氢氧化钠和柠檬酸)、吸收剂(例如淀粉辛烯琥珀酸铝、高岭土、玉米淀粉、燕麦淀粉、环糊精、滑石和沸石)、皮肤漂白和光亮剂(例如氢醌和烟酰胺乳酸酯)、湿润剂(例如山梨醇、脲和甘露醇)、剥离剂、防水剂(例如氢氧化钠镁/铝硬脂酸盐)、皮肤调节剂(例如芦荟提取物、尿囊素、没药醇、神经酰胺、聚二甲基硅氧烷、透明质酸和甘草酸二钾)。这些附加成分中的一些的非限制性实例在以下小节中提供。
a.保湿剂
可以与本发明的组合物一起使用的保湿剂的非限制性实例包括氨基酸、硫酸软骨素、双甘油、赤藓糖醇、果糖、葡萄糖、甘油、甘油聚合物、乙二醇、1,2,6-己三醇、蜂蜜、透明质酸、氢化蜂蜜、氢化淀粉水解物、肌醇、乳糖醇、麦芽糖醇、麦芽糖、甘露醇、天然保湿因子、PEG-15丁二醇、聚甘油山梨醇、吡咯烷酮羧酸的盐、PCA钾、丙二醇、葡糖醛酸钠、PCA钠、山梨醇、蔗糖、海藻糖、脲和木糖醇。
其他实例包括乙酰化羊毛脂、乙酰化羊毛脂醇、丙氨酸、藻类提取物、翠叶芦荟、翠叶芦荟提取物、翠叶芦荟凝胶、药蜀葵提取物、杏(prunusarmeniaca)仁油、精氨酸、精氨酸天冬氨酸盐/酯、山金车提取物、天冬氨酸、鳄梨(persea gratissima)油、屏障鞘脂、丁醇、蜂蜡、山萮醇、β-谷甾醇、白桦(betula alba)树皮提取物、琉璃苣(Borago officinalis)提取物、假叶树(ruscus aculeatus)提取物、丁二醇、金盏花提取物、金盏花油、小烛树(euphorbia cerifera)蜡、菜籽油、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、豆蔻(elettariacardamomum)油、巴西棕榈(copernicia erifera)蜡、胡萝卜(daucus carotasativa)油、蓖麻(ricinus communis)油、神经酰胺、地蜡、十六/十八醇聚亚乙基氧(5)醚、十六/十八醇聚亚乙基氧(12)醚、十六/十八醇聚亚乙基氧(20)醚、鲸蜡硬脂醇辛酸酯、十六醇聚亚乙基氧(20)醚、十六醇聚亚乙基氧(24)醚、鲸蜡醇乙酸酯、鲸蜡醇辛酸酯、鲸蜡醇棕榈酸酯、洋甘菊(anthemisnobilis)油、胆固醇、胆固醇酯、胆甾醇羟基硬脂酸酯、柠檬酸、鼠尾草(salviasclarea)油、可可(theobroma cacao)脂、椰油醇-辛酸酯/癸酸酯、椰子(cocosnucifera)油、胶原蛋白、胶原蛋白氨基酸、玉米(zea mays)油、脂肪酸、癸基油酸酯、聚二甲基硅氧烷共聚醇、聚二甲基硅氧烷醇、己二酸二辛酯、琥珀酸二辛酯、二聚季戊四醇六辛酸酯/六癸酸酯、DNA、赤藓糖醇、乙氧基二乙二醇、亚油酸乙酯、蓝桉油、月见草(oenothera biennis)油、脂肪酸、斑点老鹳草油、葡萄糖胺、葡糖谷氨酸酯、谷氨酸、甘油聚亚乙基氧(26)醚、甘油、丙三醇、二硬脂酸甘油酯、羟基硬脂酸甘油酯、月桂酸甘油酯、亚油酸甘油酯、豆蔻酸甘油酯、油酸甘油酯、硬脂酸甘油酯、硬脂酸甘油酯SE、甘氨酸、乙二醇硬酯酸酯、乙二醇硬酯酸酯SE、葡糖氨基葡聚糖、葡萄(vitis vinifera)籽油、榛子(corylus americana)坚果油、己二醇、透明质酸、红花(carthamus tinctorius)油、氢化蓖麻油、氢化椰油酸甘油酯、氢化椰子油、氢化羊毛脂、氢化卵磷脂、氢化棕榈油甘油酯、氢化棕榈仁油、氢化大豆油、氢化牛脂酸甘油酯、氢化植物油、水解胶原蛋白、水解弹性蛋白、水解葡糖氨基葡聚糖、水解角蛋白、水解大豆蛋白、羟基化羊毛脂、羟基脯氨酸、硬脂酸异鲸蜡醇酯、异鲸蜡醇硬脂酰基硬脂酸酯、油酸异癸酯、异硬脂酸异丙酯、羊毛脂酸异丙酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、棕榈酸异丙酯、硬脂酸异丙酯、异硬脂酰胺DEA、异硬脂酸、异硬脂醇乳酸酯、异硬脂醇新戊酸酯、茉莉(jasminum officinale)油、霍霍巴(buxuschinensis)油、巨藻、石栗(aleurites moluccana)坚果油、乳酰胺MEA、羊毛脂醇聚亚乙基氧(16)醚、羊毛脂醇聚亚乙基氧(10)醚乙酸酯、羊毛脂、羊毛脂酸、羊毛脂醇、羊毛脂油、羊毛脂蜡、薰衣草(lavandula angustifolia)油、卵磷脂、柠檬(citrus medica limonum)油、亚油酸、亚麻酸、澳洲坚果油、麦芽糖醇、母菊(chamomilla recutita)油、甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、甲基硅烷醇PCA、矿物油、貂油、被孢霉油、肉豆蔻醇乳酸酯、肉豆蔻醇肉豆蔻酸酯、肉豆蔻醇丙酸酯、新戊二醇二辛酸酯/二癸酸酯、辛基月桂醇、辛基月桂醇肉豆蔻酸酯、辛基月桂醇硬脂酰基硬脂酸酯、羟基硬脂酸辛酯、棕榈酸辛酯、水杨酸辛酯、硬脂酸辛酯、油酸、橄榄(olea europaea)油、橙(citrus aurantium dulcis)油、棕榈(elaeis guineensis)油、棕榈酸、泛硫乙胺、泛醇、泛醇基乙基醚、石蜡、PCA、桃(prunus persica)仁油、花生(arachis hypogaea)油、PEG-8C12-18酯、PEG-15椰油烷基胺、PEG-150二硬脂酸酯、PEG-60甘油异硬脂酸酯、PEG-5甘油硬脂酸酯、PEG-30甘油硬脂酸酯、PEG-7氢化蓖麻油、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油、PEG-60氢化蓖麻油、PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、PEG40失水山梨醇全油酸酯、PEG-5大豆甾醇、PEG-10大豆甾醇、PEG-2硬脂酸酯、PEG-8硬脂酸酯、PEG-20硬脂酸酯、PEG-32硬脂酸酯、PEG-40硬脂酸酯、PEG-50硬脂酸酯、PEG-100硬脂酸酯、PEG-150硬脂酸酯、十五内酯、胡椒薄荷(menthapiperita)油、凡士林、磷脂、多氨基酸多糖缩合物、聚甘油(3)二异硬脂酸酯、聚季铵盐(24)、聚山梨醇酯(20)、聚山梨醇酯(40)、聚山梨醇酯(60)、聚山梨醇酯(80)、聚山梨醇酯(85)、肉豆蔻酸钾、棕榈酸钾、丙二醇、丙二醇二辛酸酯/二癸酸酯、丙二醇二辛酸酯、丙二醇二壬酸酯、丙二醇月桂酸酯、丙二醇硬脂酸酯、丙二醇硬脂酸酯SE、PVP、吡哆醇二棕榈酸酯、视黄醇、视黄醇棕榈酸酯、米(oryza sativa)糠油、RNA、迷迭香(rosmarinus officinalis)油、玫瑰油、红花(carthamus tinctorius)油、鼠尾草(salvia officinalis)油、檀香(santalum album)油、丝氨酸、血清蛋白、芝麻(sesamum indicum)油、牛油果(butyrospermum parkii)脂、蚕丝粉、软骨素硫酸钠、透明质酸钠、乳酸钠、棕榈酸钠、PCA钠、聚谷氨酸钠、可溶胶原、失水山梨醇月桂酸酯、失水山梨醇油酸酯、失水山梨醇棕榈酸酯、失水山梨醇倍半油酸酯、失水山梨醇硬脂酸酯、山梨醇、大豆(glycine soja)油、鞘脂、角鲨烷、角鲨烯、硬脂酰胺MEA-硬脂酸酯、硬脂酸、硬脂氧基聚二甲基硅氧烷、硬脂氧基三甲基硅烷、硬脂醇、硬脂醇甘草亭酸酯、硬脂醇庚酸酯、硬脂醇硬脂酸酯、葵花(helianthus annuus)籽油、甜杏仁(prunus amygdalus dulcis)油、合成蜂蜡、生育酚、乙酸生育酚酯、生育酚亚油酸酯、三山嵛精、十三烷醇新戊酸酯、十三烷醇硬脂酸酯、三乙醇胺、三硬脂酸精、脲、植物油、水、蜡、小麦(triticum vulgare)胚芽油和依兰(cananga odorata)油。
b.抗氧化剂
可以与本发明的组合物一起使用的抗氧化剂的非限制性实例包括乙酰半胱氨酸、抗坏血酸多肽、抗坏血酸二棕榈酸酯、抗坏血酸甲基硅烷醇果胶酸酯、抗坏血酸棕榈酸酯、抗坏血酸硬脂酸酯、BHA、BHT、叔丁基氢醌、半胱氨酸、半胱氨酸HCI、二戊基氢醌、二叔丁基氢醌、二鲸蜡醇硫代二丙酸酯、二油基生育酚甲基硅烷醇、抗坏血酸硫酸酯二钠、二硬脂醇硫代二丙酸酯、双十三烷醇硫代二丙酸酯、没食子酸月桂酯、异抗坏血酸、抗坏血酸酯、阿魏酸乙酯、阿魏酸、没食子酸酯、氢醌、巯基乙酸异辛酯、曲酸、抗坏血酸镁、抗坏血酸磷酸酯镁、甲基硅烷醇抗坏血酸酯、天然植物抗氧化剂例如绿茶或葡萄籽提取物、去甲二氢愈创木酸、没食子酸辛酯、苯巯基乙酸、磷酸抗坏血酸酯生育酚酯钾、亚硫酸钾、没食子酸丙酯、醌、迷迭香酸、抗坏血酸钠、亚硫酸氢钠、异抗坏血酸钠、偏亚硫酸氢钠、亚硫酸钠、超氧化物歧化酶、巯基乙酸钠、山梨醇缩糠醛、硫二甘醇、亚硫基二乙酰胺、硫二乙酸、巯基乙酸、硫代乳酸、硫代水杨酸、生育酚聚亚乙基氧(5)醚、生育酚聚亚乙基氧(10)醚、生育酚聚亚乙基氧(12)醚、生育酚聚亚乙基氧(18)醚、生育酚聚亚乙基氧(50)醚、生育酚、托可索伦、乙酸生育酚酯、生育酚亚油酸酯、生育酚烟酸酯、生育酚琥珀酸酯和三(壬基酚)亚磷酸酯。
c.结构化剂
在其他非限制性方面,本发明的组合物可包含结构化剂。在某些方面,结构化剂有助于为组合物提供流变学特性以促进组合物的稳定性。在其他方面,结构化剂还可以起乳化剂或表面活性剂的作用。结构化剂的非限制性实例包括硬脂酸、棕榈酸、硬脂醇、鲸蜡醇、山嵛醇、硬脂酸、棕榈酸、具有平均约1到21个亚乙基氧单元的硬脂醇的聚乙二醇醚、具有平均约1到5个亚乙基氧单元的鲸蜡醇的聚乙二醇醚及其混合物。
d.含有硅酮的化合物
在非限制性方面,含有硅酮的化合物包括分子主链由交替的硅和氧原子与连接在硅原子上的侧基组成的聚合产物家族中的任何成员。通过改变-Si-O-链的长度、侧基和交联,硅酮可以合成为各种各样的材料。它们的稠度可以从液体到凝胶到固体。
可以在本发明的情况下使用的含有硅酮的化合物包括在本说明书中所描述的或本领域普通技术人员已知的那些。非限制性实例包括硅油(例如挥发性和非挥发性油)、凝胶和固体。在某些方面,含有硅酮的化合物包括硅油,例如聚有机硅氧烷。聚有机硅氧烷的非限制性实例包括聚二甲基硅氧烷、环聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚硅酮(11)、苯基聚三甲基硅氧烷、聚三甲基硅氨基二甲基硅氧烷、硬脂氧基三甲基硅烷或它们的混合物和其他任何给定比例的有机硅氧烷材料,以根据预期的应用(举例来说,对特别区域例如皮肤、毛发或眼睛)达到期望的稠度和应用特征。“挥发性硅油”包括具有低气化热的硅油,即通常低于约50卡每克硅油。挥发性硅油的非限制性实例包括:环聚二甲基硅氧烷,例如道康宁344流体、道康宁345流体、道康宁244流体和道康宁245流体、挥发硅7207(康涅狄格州,丹伯里,联合碳化物公司);低粘度聚二甲基硅氧烷,即粘度大约为50cst或更低的聚二甲基硅氧烷(举例来说,聚二甲基硅氧烷,例如道康宁200-0.5cst流体)。道康宁流体可以从密歇根州米德兰的道康宁公司购得。在CTFA化妆品成分词典的第三版(通过引用并入)中,环聚二甲基硅氧烷和聚二甲基硅氧烷分别被描述为环状二甲基聚硅氧烷化合物和用三甲基硅氧基单元封端的完全甲基化的线性硅氧烷混合物。在本发明的情况下可以使用的其他非限制性挥发性硅油包括从纽约州沃特福德的通用电器公司的硅酮产品部门和密歇根州艾德里安的史托福石化公司的SWS硅酮部门购得的那些。
e.精油
精油包括源自药草、花朵、树木和其他植物的油。这类油一般以植物细胞间微小的液滴存在,并可以用本领域技术人员已知的若干方法进行提取(例如,蒸气蒸馏、花香提取(即使用脂肪提取)、浸渍、溶剂提取或机械压榨)。当这些类型的油暴露于空气时,其趋于挥发(即挥发性油)。因此,虽然许多精油是无色的,但是其随着时间被氧化并且颜色变得更深。精油不溶于水,但溶于醇、醚、固定油(植物的)和其他有机溶剂。在精油中发现的一般物理特征包括从约160℃到240℃的沸点和从约0.759到约1.096的密度。
精油一般通过发现油的来源植物命名。例如,玫瑰油或薄荷油分别源于玫瑰或薄荷植物。在本发明的情况下可以使用的精油的非限制性实例包括芝麻油、澳洲坚果油、茶树油、月见草油、西班牙鼠尾草油、西班牙迷迭香油、芫荽油、百里香油、众香果油、玫瑰油、大茴香油、凤仙花油、香柠檬油、玫瑰木油、香柏油、甘菊油、鼠尾草油、香紫苏油、丁香油、柏木油、桉油、茴香油、海茴香油、乳香油、香叶油、姜油、葡萄柚油、茉莉油、杜松子油、薰衣草油、柠檬油、柠檬草油、梨莓油、橘子油、甘牛至油、没药油、苦橙花油、橙油、绿叶油、胡椒油、黑胡椒油、苦橙叶油、松油、奥图玫瑰油、迷迭香油、檀香油、绿薄荷油、甘松油、香根草油、冬青油、依兰依兰。还预期本领域技术人员已知的其他精油在本发明的情况下有用。
f.增稠剂
包括增稠剂或凝胶剂在内的增稠剂,包括可以增加组合物粘度的物质。增稠剂包括可以增加组合物粘度而基本上不改变组合物中活性成分功效的那些。增稠剂还可以增加本发明的组合物的稳定性。在本发明的某些方面,增稠剂包括氢化聚异丁烯或三羟基硬脂酸甘油酯,或两者的混合物。
在本发明的情况下可以使用的另外的增稠剂的非限制性实例包括羧酸聚合物、交联的聚丙烯酸酯聚合物、聚丙烯酰胺聚合物、多糖和胶。羧酸聚合物的实例包括含有一种或更多种源自丙烯酸、取代的丙烯酸和这些丙烯酸和取代的丙烯酸的盐和酯的单体的交联化合物,其中所述交联剂含有两个或更多个碳-碳双键,并源自多元醇(参见美国专利5,087,445;4,509,949;2,798,053;CTFA国际化妆品成分词典,第四版,1991,12页和80页)。市售羧酸聚合物的实例包括卡波姆,其为丙烯酸与蔗糖或季戊四醇的烯丙基醚交联的均聚物(例如,购自B.F.Goodrich的CarbopolTM900系列)。
交联的聚丙烯酸酯聚合物的非限制性实例包括阳离子型和非离子型聚合物。实例在美国专利5,100,660号;4,849,484号;4,835,206号;4,628,078号;4,599,379号中描述。
聚丙烯酰胺聚合物(包括非离子的聚丙烯酰胺聚合物,其包括取代支化的或未支化的聚合物)的非限制性实例包括聚丙烯酰胺、异构链烷烃和月桂醇聚亚乙基氧(7)醚、丙烯酰胺和取代的丙烯酰胺与丙烯酸和取代的丙烯酸的多嵌段共聚物。
多糖的非限制性实例包括纤维素、羧甲基羟乙基纤维素、乙酸丙酸羧酸纤维素、羟乙基纤维素、羟乙基乙基纤维素、羟丙基纤维素、羟丙基甲基纤维素、甲基羟乙基纤维素、微晶纤维素、纤维素硫酸钠及其混合物。其他实例为烷基取代的纤维素,其中纤维素聚合物的羟基被羟烷基化(优选地羟乙基化或羟丙基化)以形成羟烷基化的纤维素,其然后用C10-C30直链或支链烷基基团通过醚键进行进一步改性。一般这些聚合物为C10-C30直链或支链醇与羟烷基纤维素的醚。其他有用的多糖包括硬葡聚糖类,其包含每三个单元具有一个(1-6)连接的葡萄糖的(1-3)连接的葡萄糖单元的直链。
本发明可以使用的胶的非限制性实例包括阿拉伯树胶、琼脂、藻胶、藻酸、藻酸铵、支化淀粉、藻酸钙、角叉菜胶钙、肉毒碱、角叉菜胶、糊精、明胶、结冷胶、瓜尔豆胶、瓜尔胶羟丙基三甲基氯化铵、锂蒙脱石、透明质酸、水合二氧化硅、羟丙基壳聚糖、羟丙基瓜尔胶、卡拉亚胶、巨藻、角豆胶、纳豆胶、藻酸钾、角叉菜胶钾、藻酸丙二醇酯、菌核胶、羧甲基葡聚糖钠、角叉菜胶钠、黄蓍胶、黄原胶及其混合物。
g.防腐剂
在本发明的情况下可以使用的防腐剂的非限制性实例包括季铵盐防腐剂(例如聚季铵盐-1和苄烷铵卤化物(例如苯扎氯铵(“BAC”)和苯扎溴铵))、对羟基苯甲酸酯(例如对羟基苯甲酸甲酯和对羟基苯甲酸丙酯)、苯氧基乙醇、苄醇、氯丁醇、苯酚、山梨酸、硫汞撒或其组合。
2.药物成分
也预期药物活性成分可用于本发明的组合物。药物活性成分的非限制性实例包括抗粉刺剂、用于治疗酒渣鼻的试剂、止痛剂、麻醉剂、肛门直肠的、抗组胺药、包括非甾族消炎药在内的消炎剂、抗生素、抗真菌剂、抗病毒素、抗微生物剂、抗癌活性物、抗疥螨剂、灭虱剂、抗肿瘤药、防汗药、止痒剂、抗牛皮癣药、抗脂溢剂、生物活性蛋白质和多肽、烧伤治疗剂、烧灼剂、脱色剂、脱毛剂、尿布疹治疗剂、酶、毛发生长刺激剂、包括DFMO及其盐和类似物在内的毛发生长抑制剂、止血剂、角质分离剂、口疮治疗剂、唇疱疹治疗剂、牙科或牙周治疗剂、光敏感活性物、皮肤保护剂/屏障剂、包括激素和皮质激素的类固醇、晒伤治疗剂、遮光剂、经皮活性物、鼻活性物、阴道活性物、疣治疗剂、创伤治疗剂、创伤愈合剂等。
C.试剂盒
还预期试剂盒用于本发明的某些方面。例如,本发明的组合物可以包括在试剂盒内。试剂盒可以包含容器。容器可以包括瓶子、金属管、层合管、塑料管、分配器、高压容器、屏障容器、包装、分室、口红容器、小型容器、能够保存化妆品组合物的化妆品盘或其他类型的容器,例如注射或吹塑成型的塑料容器,其中保存分散体或组合物或期望的瓶子、分配器或包装。试剂盒和/或容器在其表面可包含标记。举例来说,标记可以是字词、短语、缩写、图片或符号。
容器可以分配预定量的组合物。在其他实施方案中,可以挤压容器(例如金属管、层合管或塑料管)以分配期望量的组合物。组合物可以分配为喷雾、气溶胶、液体、流体或半固体。容器可以具有喷雾、抽吸或挤压机构。试剂盒还可以包含使用试剂盒组分以及使用任何包含于容器内的组合物的说明书。说明书可以包含如何施用、使用和保存组合物的解释。
实施例
列出以下实施例以说明本发明的某些非限制性方面。本领域技术人员应理解,以下实施例中所公开的技术代表本发明人发现的在本发明的实践中发挥良好作用的技术。然而,根据本公开,本领域技术人员应理解,可以在所公开的特定实施方案中做出许多改变,并仍然获得相同或相似的结果,而不脱离本发明的精神和范围。
实施例1
口红制剂
表1的组合物是具有皮肤/嘴唇用活性物和无水基底的无水口红的非限制性指导方针。如实施例3中所示,活性物的这些组合提供能够润湿嘴唇、增加嘴唇丰润度并减少嘴唇中线条出现的口红。
表1*
成分 | 量(w/w%) |
葵花籽油 | 10-15 |
霍霍巴酯 | 10-15 |
芒果脂 | 3-7 |
VolulipTM | 1-3 |
生育酚 | 0.1-2% |
无水基底 | 适量 |
总计 | 100 |
表2的组合物是具有表1的制剂中所述的活性物的本发明无水口红的非限制性指导方针。如实施例3中所示,无水基底具有舒适的触觉性质。表2*
相** | 成分 | 量(w/w%) |
A | 油 | 20-30 |
霍霍巴酯 | 10-20 | |
白池花籽油/牛油果脂 | 3-7 | |
澳洲坚果油酸乙酯 | 5-10 | |
乙酸异丁酸蔗糖酯 | 1-5 | |
B | 葵花籽蜡 | 1-5 |
另外的蜡 | 5-15 | |
甘油山嵛酸酯/二十烷二酸酯 | 0.1到2 | |
C | 芒果脂 | 3-7 |
D | 二氧化钛 | 5-10 |
颜料/着色剂 | 10-20 | |
E | 绢云母 | 2-5 |
F | VolulipTM | 0.1-2 |
生育酚 | 0.01-2 | |
芳香剂 | 0.01-2 | |
总计 | 100 |
*如表1的量%栏所示的,成分的量可以改变。
**组合物可以通过在加热条件下(95-100℃)搅拌相A的成分进行制备。加入相B的成分并继续在加热条件下搅拌直到混合物成为均相的。加入相C的成分。冷却混合物到75-80℃。加入相D的成分并继续搅拌。在继续搅拌的条件下加入相E的成分。加入相F的成分,冷却到63-67℃,停止搅拌。将混合物冷却至室温(20-25℃)。
表3的组合物是本发明的一种特定的无水口红。
表3*
相** | 成分 | 量(w/w%) |
A | 蓖麻油 | 13.2 |
葵花油 | 11.9 | |
霍霍巴酯 | 13.0 | |
橙皮蜡 | 1.9 | |
白池花籽油/牛油果脂 | 5.1 | |
澳洲坚果油酸乙酯 | 6.0 | |
乙酸异丁酸蔗糖酯 | 2.5 | |
B | 葵花籽蜡 | 3.34 |
DR小烛树蜡 | 5.5 | |
有机蜂蜡 | 3.4 | |
甘油山嵛酸酯/二十烷二酸酯 | 0.5 | |
C | 芒果脂 | 5.0 |
D | 颜料/着色剂/二氧化钛*** | 适量 |
蓖麻油 | 2.0 | |
E | 绢云母 | 3.5 |
F | VolulipTM | 1.1 |
生育酚 | 0.25 | |
香草 | 0.3 | |
总计 | 100 |
*如表1的量%栏所示的,成分的量可以改变。
**组合物可以通过在加热条件下(95-100℃)搅拌相A的成分进行制备。加入相B的成分并继续在加热条件下搅拌直到混合物成为均相的。加入相C的成分。冷却混合物到75-80℃。加入相D的成分并继续搅拌。在继续搅拌的条件下加入相E的成分。加入相F的成分,冷却到63-67℃,停止搅拌。将混合物冷却至室温(20-25℃)。
***着色剂用于产生希望的口红色调或颜色。
实施例2
稳定性数据
证实表3的组合物在热稳定性试验中稳定,并具有足以将其模塑为口红棒以将其置入到口红管中的粘度。表3的组合物具有54.1℃的滴点和50.0℃的熔点。
实施例3
功效数据
由181名女性在一周时间内每天使用表3的制剂。在一周时间后,75%的女性声明她们的嘴唇感觉全天润湿。另外,92%的女性表示所述制剂在嘴唇上给人舒缓、润湿和舒适的感觉,从而证实所述制剂令人愉悦的触觉性质。76%的女性表示她们的嘴唇显得更年轻、艳丽且没有纹。85%的女性声明该制剂为她们的嘴唇补充活力并使其保持正常状态,使她们看上去健康。87%的女性声明她们的嘴唇看上去更光滑并感觉柔软。还对VolulipTM成分进行了另外的体外试验,其中观察到VolulipTM刺激人类成纤维细胞中胶原蛋白(+55%)和透明质酸(+63%)的生成。
实施例4
预言实施例
本发明组合物另外的功效数据点可以通过本领域普通技术人员已知的方法来测定。以下是可以在本发明的情况下使用的非限制性程序。应认识到,可以使用其他测试程序,包括例如客观的和主观的程序。
皮肤水分/水合可以通过利用以Nova Dermal Phase Meter进行的阻抗测量进行测量。阻抗计测量皮肤水分含量的变化。皮肤外层具有不同的电性质。当皮肤干燥时,其导电很差。当其变得更加含水时,产生增加的导电性。因此,皮肤阻抗(与导电性有关)的变化可以用于评价皮肤水合的变化。装置可以根据仪器说明针对每个测试日进行校准。还可以对温度和相对湿度进行标记。对受试者可以进行如下评价:测量前其可以在具有确定湿度(例如30%至50%)和温度(例如68℃至72℃)的室内进行平衡。在脸的每一侧进行三个独立的阻抗测定,并对其进行记录和平均。阻抗计可以使用T5设定,其对施用到脸上每五秒的阻抗值进行平均。变化可以以统计方差和显著性进行报道。
皮肤清透度和雀斑与老年斑的减少可以使用Minolta Chromometer进行评价。肤色改变可以使用Minolta Chroma Meter的a*值进行评价以确定由于产品处理引起刺激的可能性。a*值测量肤色在红色区域的变化。这用来确定组合物是否导致刺激。测量可以在脸的每一侧进行并进行平均,作为左脸和右脸的值。皮肤清透度也可以使用Minolta Meter进行测量。测量是Minolta Meter的a*、b、和L值的组合,并与皮肤的亮度有关,而且非常好的对应皮肤的光滑度和水合。如上取皮肤读数。在一个非限制性方面,皮肤清透度可以描述为L/C,其中C是色度并定义为(a2+b2)1/2。
皮肤干燥、表面细纹、皮肤光滑度和肤色可以用临床评分技术进行评价。例如,皮肤干燥的临床评分可以通过五点标准Kligman Scale进行确定:(0)皮肤是柔软和湿润的;(1)皮肤呈现正常而没有可见的干燥;(2)皮肤触摸感觉轻微干燥而没有可见的剥落;(3)皮肤感觉干燥、坚韧并且具有有些鳞屑的发白的外观;以及(4)皮肤感觉非常干燥、粗糙并且具有有鳞屑的发白的外观。评价可以由两个临床医师独立进行并进行平均。
肤色的临床评分可以通过十点模拟数值刻度实施:(10)平滑的均匀的皮肤、粉红棕色的颜色。手持放大镜检查时没有暗的、发红的或有鳞的斑块。皮肤的微观纹理摸上去非常均匀;(7)不用放大镜观察均匀的肤色。没有鳞状区域,但是有由于色素淀积或红斑引起的疹斑。没有直径大于1cm的疹斑;(4)轻易地注意到皮肤疹斑和不均匀的纹理。少量鳞片。某些区域摸上去粗糙的皮肤;以及(1)不均匀的皮肤着色和纹理。多个区域的鳞片和疹斑,色素减退型、发红的或黑色的斑点。大面积的直径超过1cm的不均匀着色。评价由两个临床医师独立进行并进行平均。
皮肤光滑度的临床评分可以通过一个十点模拟数值刻度进行分析:(10)光滑的,皮肤是湿润的和闪光的,手指划过表面时没有阻力;(7)一定程度光滑的,微小的阻力;(4)粗糙的、可见地改变的,摩擦时有摩擦力;以及(1)粗糙的、易剥落的、不均匀的表面。评价由两个临床医师独立进行并进行平均。
皮肤光滑度和皱纹的减少也可以通过使用Packman等人(1978)公开的方法进行可视化评价。例如,每一受试者就诊时,对每一受试者的表面面线(SFL)的深度、浅度和总数量都可以进行认真的评分和记录。通过将数量因子乘以深度/宽度/长度因子得到数字的分数。获得眼睛区域和嘴巴区域(左侧和右侧)的分数,加到一起作为总的皱纹分数。
皮肤紧致度可以用Hargens Ballistometer,一种通过在皮肤上落下一个小物体并记录前两个反弹峰来评价皮肤弹性和紧致度的装置,进行测量。Ballistometry是使用相对钝的探头(4平方毫米-接触面积)的小的轻量探测器。探测器轻轻地穿透进入皮肤,导致取决于皮肤外层性质的测量,所述皮肤外层包括角质层和外表皮以及部分真皮层。
皮肤柔软度/柔韧性可以使用Gas Bearing Electrodynamometer,一种测量皮肤应力/应变性质的仪器,进行评价。皮肤的粘弹性与皮肤保湿有关。可以通过用双面胶将探测器附着在皮肤表面实现对脸颊区域特定位点的测量。大约3.5gm的力平行施加于皮肤表面,精确地测量皮肤的位移。然后可以计算皮肤的柔韧性,并表示为DSR(动态弹簧刚度,以gm/mm计)。
皮肤上线条和皱纹的显现可以使用复制品进行评价,所述复制品是皮肤表面的印模。可以使用如硅橡胶的材料。复制品可以通过图像分析进行分析。线条和皱纹可见性的变化可以通过利用硅复制品形成受试者的脸并用计算机图像分析系统分析复制品图像进行客观地定量。复制品可以从眼睛区域和颈部区域获得,并用数码相机以低照明入射角进行拍摄。数字图像可以用图像处理程序进行分析并确定被皱纹和细纹覆盖的复制品。
皮肤表面轮廓可以通过使用表面光度仪/记录针的方法进行测量。这包括闪光或拖动记录针穿过复制品表面。记录针的垂直位移通过距离传感器可以录入计算机,在扫描复制品的一定距离后,皮肤轮廓的分析可以以二维曲面产生。该扫描可以沿着固定的轴重复任意次数以产生模拟的皮肤3-D图像。使用记录针技术可以获得十个随机的复制品截面,并组合产生平均值。感兴趣的值包括Ra,其为通过积分相对于平局轮廓高度的轮廓高度计算得到的所有粗糙度(高度)值的算术平均数。Rt,其为最高峰和最低谷之间的最大垂直距离,以及Rz,其为平均峰振幅减去平均峰高度。数值以用mm为单位标定的数值给出。设备在每次使用前通过扫描已知数值的标样进行标准化。Ra值可以通过下式计算:Ra=标准化粗糙度;lm=横向(扫描)长度;以及y=轮廓位置相对于平均轮廓高度的绝对值(x-轴)。
在其他非限制性方面,本发明的组合物的功效可以通过使用皮肤类似物,举例来说MELANODERMTM,进行评价。黑素细胞,皮肤类似物中细胞的一种,当暴露于L-二羟苯基丙氨酸(L-DOPA)(黑色素的前体)时明确地污染。皮肤类似物MELANODERMTM可以用各种含有本发明的组合物和增白剂的赋形剂进行处理,或仅使用赋形剂作为对照物。或者,未处理的皮肤类似物样品可以用作对照物。该试验还可以用于确定组合物的皮肤脱落能力(例如给皮肤着色,然后用组合物处理皮肤以确定在目标时间内脱去的着色的量)。
皮肤清透度和雀斑与老年斑的减少使用Minolta Chromometer进行评价。肤色改变可以使用Minolta Chroma Meter的a*值进行评价以确定由于产品处理引起刺激的可能性。a*值测量肤色在红色区域的变化。这用来确定产品是否导致刺激。测量在脸的每一侧进行并进行平均,作为左脸和右脸的值。皮肤清透度也可以使用Minolta Meter进行测量。测量是MinoltaMeter的a*、b、和L值的组合,并与皮肤的亮度有关,而且非常好的对应皮肤的光滑度和水合。皮肤测定如上进行。皮肤清透度定义为L/C,其中C是色度并定义为(a2+b2)1/2。
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本说明书中所公开和要求保护的所有组合物和/或方法根据本公开都不需要不合适的实验即可制成和实现。尽管已经根据具体的实施方案描述了本发明的组合物和方法,但是对于本领域技术人员明显的是,可以对所述组合物和/或方法以及在本文所描述方法的步骤或步骤的顺序中实施变化,而不脱离本发明的概念、精神和范围。更具体地,明显的是可以用化学上和生理上都相关的某些试剂来替换本文中所述的试剂,而会获得相同或相似的结果。对本领域技术人员明显的所有这类相似的替换或变化都被视为在如所附权利要求限定的本发明的精神、范围和概念内。
Claims (10)
1.一种无水口红,其包含:
包含毛马齿苋提取物、葵花油、霍霍巴酯、芒果脂和生育酚的活性成分的组合;和
包含甘油山嵛酸酯/二十烷二酸酯的皮肤病学上可接受的载体,
其中所述无水口红具有53℃至55℃的滴点和49℃至51℃的熔点。
2.权利要求1所述的无水口红,其中所述皮肤病学上可接受的载体还包含橙皮蜡、白池花籽油、牛油果、澳洲坚果油酸乙酯、乙酸异丁酸蔗糖酯、葵花蜡、小烛树蜡、蜂蜡、二氧化钛、绢云母和蓖麻油。
3.权利要求1或2所述的无水口红,其中所述口红还包含着色剂或染料。
4.权利要求1至3中任一项所述的无水口红,其中所述口红包含按口红重量计10%至15%的葵花油、按口红重量计10%至15%的霍霍巴酯、按口红重量计3%至7%的芒果脂、按口红重量计0.1%至1%的生育酚和按口红重量计0.1%至1%的甘油山嵛酸酯/二十烷二酸酯。
5.权利要求1至4中任一项所述的无水口红,其中所述口红还包含按口红重量计1%至3%的橙皮蜡、按口红重量计3%至7%的白池花籽油和牛油果的混合物、按口红重量计3%和7%的澳洲坚果油酸乙酯、按口红重量计2%至5%的乙酸异丁酸蔗糖酯、按口红重量计2%至5%的葵花蜡、按口红重量计3%至7%的小烛树蜡、按口红重量计2%至5%的蜂蜡、按口红重量计5%至10%的二氧化钛、按口红重量计2%至5%的绢云母和按口红重量计13%至17%的蓖麻油。
6.权利要求1至5中任一项所述的无水口红,其中所述口红不包含脂肪酸、聚酰胺和聚甘油(10)山嵛酸酯/二十烷二酸酯。
7.权利要求1至6中任一项所述的无水口红,其中所述口红成形为细长的形状并包含在口红容器内,其中所述容器具有主体和盖子。
8.一种无水口红,其包含:
11重量%至13重量%的葵花油;
12重量%至14重量%的霍霍巴酯;
4重量%至6重量%的芒果脂;
0.1重量%至1重量%的生育酚;
0.1重量%至1重量%的甘油山嵛酸酯/二十烷二酸酯;
1重量%至3重量%的橙皮蜡;
4重量%至6重量%的白池花籽油和牛油果的混合物;
5重量%至7重量%的澳洲坚果油酸乙酯;
2重量%至3重量%的乙酸异丁酸蔗糖酯;
2重量%至4重量%的葵花蜡;
4重量%至6重量%的小烛树蜡;
2重量%至4重量%的蜂蜡;
7重量%至10重量%的二氧化钛;
2重量%至4重量%的绢云母;和
13重量%至17重量%的蓖麻油。
9.权利要求8所述的无水口红,其中所述无水口红具有53℃至55℃的滴点和49℃至51℃的熔点。
10.一种润湿嘴唇的方法,其包括将权利要求1至9中任一项所述的无水口红局部施用到嘴唇,其中口红的局部施用润湿嘴唇。
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US201161486061P | 2011-05-13 | 2011-05-13 | |
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PCT/US2012/037805 WO2012158627A2 (en) | 2011-05-13 | 2012-05-14 | Lip stick |
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CN103635177A true CN103635177A (zh) | 2014-03-12 |
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US (2) | US9044621B2 (zh) |
KR (1) | KR101821850B1 (zh) |
CN (1) | CN103635177B (zh) |
DE (1) | DE202012012807U1 (zh) |
HK (1) | HK1189831A1 (zh) |
WO (1) | WO2012158627A2 (zh) |
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CN110381913A (zh) * | 2017-02-24 | 2019-10-25 | 帝斯曼知识产权资产管理有限公司 | 具有牢固质地的局部用组合物 |
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Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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WO2012158627A2 (en) | 2012-11-22 |
US9044621B2 (en) | 2015-06-02 |
CN103635177B (zh) | 2016-08-24 |
HK1189831A1 (zh) | 2014-06-20 |
DE202012012807U1 (de) | 2014-02-27 |
KR20140045397A (ko) | 2014-04-16 |
US20120308500A1 (en) | 2012-12-06 |
US9592194B2 (en) | 2017-03-14 |
WO2012158627A3 (en) | 2013-03-28 |
KR101821850B1 (ko) | 2018-01-24 |
US20150224050A1 (en) | 2015-08-13 |
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