CN103422231A - Elastic corduroy fabric and production method and application thereof - Google Patents
Elastic corduroy fabric and production method and application thereof Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention discloses elastic corduroy fabric and a production method and application thereof. The fabric comprises warp made of pure cotton yarn or polyester cotton yarn, pile weft made of pure cotton yarn or polyester cotton yarn, and ground weft made of covered spandex yarn containing superfine acrylic staple fibers, flat section viscose staple fibers and round section viscose staple fibers. The fabric with front pile cut and back fleece is more than 0.70 in CLO value. Non-ironing performance of autumn and winter pants made of the elastic corduroy fabric is above level 3.5, and fleece retention rate of the same is above level 4.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of functional corduroy fabric, be specifically related to a kind of corduroy fabric and production method and application with thermal-protection elastic function.
Background technology
Corduroy fabric generally be take cotton textiles as raw material, to guarantee its good warmth retention property, soft feel, but also inherited that the shape-retaining ability of COTTON FABRIC is poor simultaneously, poor flexibility, light sensation are strong, flatiron and the poor characteristics of scourability.Along with the raising of people's living standard, for corduroy fabric, apparent requirement has not only been arranged, for its inherent physical property, functional also had a higher pursuit.By adopting various novel material to design the novel wick pile fabric, imperative.
For example in number of patent application CN98110485.1, disclose and a kind ofly by velvet-pile yarn, adopted cotton fiber/high shrinkage acrylic blended yarn, in dyeing and finishing process, acrylic fiber is heated and produces retraction, the fine hair top is remaining cotton fiber only, the fine hair bottom is still the blended fiber of cotton fiber and high-shrinkage acrylic fiber, dye respectively different colours to cotton fiber and high-shrinkage acrylic fiber, perhaps only dye acrylic fibers and do not dye cotton, make the fine hair top and bottom there is different colours, obtain the fine hair color effect of distinctive stereoscopic level, and for example in number of patent application CN200410014382.X, disclosing a kind of warp thread raw material used is the cladded yarn of polyester filament silvalin or Quality Pure Cotton Yarn Production or polyester filament and spandex or the cladded yarn of spandex and cotton fiber, pile filling raw material used is textile silvalin, the cladded yarn that ground weft raw material used is polyester filament silvalin or polyester filament and spandex or the cladded yarn of spandex and cotton fiber, high resilience, the corduroy fabric of the double-colored and flash effect of vision perception, above-mentioned two patents are all paid close attention at color, flexible improvement, the also a bit deficient in of its warmth retention property, and its ready-made clothes washs non-ironing shape-retaining ability and also is not resolved.
Summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of corduroy fabric and production method and application with superior warming, elasticity, moisture pick-up properties.
Corduroy fabric of the present invention, comprise warp thread, pile filling, ground weft.Warp thread is purified cotton yarns or polyester-cotton blend yarn; Pile filling is cotton textiles or polyester-cotton blend yarn; Ground weft is the spandex covered yarn that contains ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre, flat section viscose staple fibre, circular cross section viscose staple fibre; Fabric face has clipping effect (being the corduroy effect), reverse side has the suede of grabbing effect, and clo value is more than 0.70.With traditional corduroy fabric, compare, by adopting functional raw material, that has broken through conventional corduroy fabric only carries out the thinking of clipping processing simultaneously, grey cloth is carried out to reverse side and grab suede processing, has improved the warmth retention property of finished product.
The purified cotton yarns or the polyester cotton blended yarns that for above-mentioned warp thread, adopt, generally adopt the single thread of 16S/1～40S/1 or two yarns of 80S/2～30S/2, and the number of corduroy is set 14～28 of general employings, to guarantee the compactness of fabric.The raw material of the velvet weft yarn adopted is consistent with the warp thread raw material.For the spandex covered yarn as ground weft, can be ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre, flat section viscose staple fibre and the composite yarn of circular cross section viscose staple fibre and the wrap yarn of spandex fibre; It can be also the wrap yarn of composite yarn, circular cross section viscose and the spandex fibre of ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre, flat section viscose staple fibre and circular cross section viscose staple fibre.Consider the wrap yarn of composite yarn, circular cross section viscose and the spandex fibre of the moisture absorption heating of final finished and the preferred ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre of cost, flat section viscose staple fibre and circular cross section viscose staple fibre.40～75 % by weight, the spandex that the viscose staple fibre that more preferably ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre accounts for 5～15 % by weight that 15～35 % by weight of wrap yarn integral body, flat section viscose staple fibre account for wrap yarn integral body, circular cross section accounts for wrap yarn integral body accounts for 6～10 % by weight of wrap yarn integral body.Can guarantee that like this content of acrylic fiber in corduroy fabric is more than 5%, viscose content is more than 10%, and the content of spandex is more than 3%, to obtain more superior thermal property and elastic performance.
The ultra-fine Acrylic Fiber wherein used in ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre, for the acrylic staple fibre of fiber number below 0.9 DENIER (hereinafter to be referred as D), is brought into play the feature that its density is little, has increased the Air Flow layer in fabric; Simultaneously, the viscose staple fibre of flat section, by the characteristics of its moisture absorption heating, can meet the final thermal property of product of the present invention.Simultaneously, by the grey cloth reverse side, grab suede technique, at fabric backing, formed one deck filoplume layer, acrylic fiber and flat viscose, in the filoplume layer, have formed certain space structure, wear warmly, have warmth retention property.
The weft yarn of two systems in corduroy fabric of the present invention, i.e. velvet weft yarn and weft yarn, it carries out assortment according to 2:1 or 3:1 ratio.And the interleaving mode of warp thread and ground weft is to carry out according to plain weave or plain weave Changing Pattern, can guarantee like this compactness of wick pile ground, can fully guarantee that, after carrying out reverse side napping processing, fabric has the needed brute force of clothes.Interweaving of warp thread and pile filling, adopt the consolidation style of W type, outside the pile filling de-floating is long, and more than 3 or 3, presses suede through being interweaved.The floating long interlacing point of pile filling is 3～7.In addition, at fabric in weft yarn tightness design, through the coverage coefficient of broadwise fabric than being 1:1.5～2.5.When pile filling and ground weft assortment are 2:1, fabric longitude and latitude coverage coefficient is than preferred 1:1.5～2.0, when pile filling and ground weft assortment are 3:1, fabric longitude and latitude coverage coefficient is than preferred 1:1.8～2.5, guarantee the compactness interweaved between the warp thread of fabric and ground weft, when the grey cloth reverse side is grabbed suede, guarantee that the intensity of fabric meets the requirement of following process and the wearability of finished product.
The front of corduroy fabric of the present invention has the clipping effect, i.e. corduroy effect, and reverse side is covered by filoplume, has the suede of grabbing effect; And the broadwise elasticity of fabric reaches more than 15%, and elastic recovery rate reaches more than 90%.
The production method of the functional corduroy fabric of the present invention, comprise the steps:
(1) yarn is selected: purified cotton yarns or polyester-cotton blend yarn are as warp thread, and cotton textiles or polyester-cotton blend yarn are as pile filling, and the wrap yarn that ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre, flat section viscose staple fibre, circular cross section viscose staple fibre, spandex form is as ground weft; Wherein the concrete production technology of ground weft is as follows: after first ultra-fine acrylic fiber, flat section viscose staple fibre, circular cross section viscose staple fibre being processed to form to acrylic fibers/viscose glue complex yarn by ring ingot method, can be directly and spandex coated, also can coat processing with circular cross section viscose staple fibre, spandex.Preferably ring spinning line and circular cross section viscose staple fibre, spandex are coated, and the ratio of ring spinning line and circular cross section viscose is 1:0.6～1.5.Coating adds and reuses the circular cross section viscose staple fibre man-hour, can reduce the usage ratio of ring spinning line, cost-saving, can also improve the moisture absorption heating of fabric simultaneously.The spandex fiber number is 40D or 70D, and the drawing-off multiplying power is 2.5～3.5, preferably 2.8～3.3; Coating the twist is between 650～1000T/M, preferably 750～900T/M.The intensity of gained spandex covered yarn is more than 1.5cN/dtex, and degree of stretching is more than 12%, and the twist is more than 850T/M.Adopt the setting of above-mentioned drawing-off multiplying power and the twist, coordinate the design through the broadwise coverage coefficient, guarantee that yarn is in the dyeing process engineering, cloth cover is smooth, and, can guarantee the elasticity of fabric and wash non-ironing shape-retaining ability.
(2) weaving process: use cam or multi-arm type heald lifting device, the warp yarns warp tension is controlled at 1.2～3.0cN/dtex, and the loom rotating speed is controlled between 500～700rpm.For guaranteeing the high efficiency of loom, preferably between back-bearer and monofilament, adopt menopause tablet to penetrate mode and carry out.
(3) grey cloth reverse side sanding: the grey cloth reverse side that step (2) is made carries out normal temperature napping processing, and the sanding condition is: adopt pin type napping machine, napping speed be 10～20m/min, napping to return number be 2～6 times, preferably 2～3 times.Due to fabric when reverse side is grabbed suede technique, to grab the suede operate along entering through direction, and the latitude direction is under tension-free state is controlled, therefore, fabric latitude direction in grabbing the suede process can be shunk, the door width that embodies fabric has certain contraction, fabric through density, certain increase is arranged, therefore fabric is after grabbing suede, powerful (measuring the brute force of tearing of warp thread) the sustainment rate portioned product of latitude direction can be improved before grabbing suede, and the latitude direction of general fabrics is grabbed the powerful sustainment rate 90～110% before and after suede.And in grabbing the suede process, it is large that weft yarn is grabbed the degree that degree that suede equipment picks up picks up than warp thread, therefore the brute force of weft yarn can descend, cause fabric grabbing the brute force decline of suede by direction (measuring the brute force of tearing of weft yarn), return several increases along with grabbing suede, the brute force of weft yarn descends and increases, therefore return number while setting grabbing suede, take and meet after the direction brute force is being grabbed suede strength retention as being main points more than 75%, in guaranteeing that following process is carried out, must be satisfied fabric strength require and the brute force of finished product is taken requirement.The brute force of fabric is according to JIS L1096 D method, after grabbing suede, powerful (measuring the brute force of tearing of the warp thread) sustainment rate of latitude direction is to grab 90～110% before suede, before the powerful sustainment rate of direction brute force (measuring the brute force of tearing of weft yarn) is to grab suede 75～100%.After napping processing, the warmth retention property function of corduroy fabric is improved, and the direction of warp and weft brute force is all more than 9.8N.
(4) the positive clipping of grey cloth, carry out the pre-heat treatment to grey cloth, the normal temperature bristle, and clipping is processed, then the normal temperature brushing, and the technique of singing in front, guarantee surperficial corduroy effect.Here positive purpose of singing, be to guarantee that the length of corduroy fabric surface corduroy is consistent, surface smoothness.
(5) dyeing and finishing technology:
A. pre-treatment process: refining, pre-setting;
B. dyeing: select REACTIVE DYES, DISPERSE DYES or reducing dye are dyeed on continuous dyeing machine, and the part that acrylic fiber is the ground weft yarn is embodied in the reverse side of fabric, is not dyeed;
C. postfinishing process: adopt the preshrinking process of the above high-temperature shaping of 180 degree and 120～140 degree, adopt the above high-temperature shaping of 180 degree here, strengthen the resilience of fabric and the non-ironing shape-retaining ability energy of fabric.Simultaneously, owing to adopting continuous dyeing machine to be dyeed, fabric through direction in tension state, fabric can be larger through the wash shrinkage of direction, by the High Temperature Pre shrink process of 120～140 degree, guarantees that the laundry shrinkage performance of fabric meets the purposes that clothes are used.
In above each dyeing and finishing technology arrangement process, be to guarantee the aesthetic property of finished product corduroy outward appearance, the mode that each operation adopts contrary hair to enter, guarantee wool top direction uniformity after corduroy surface clipping.
Trousers autumn and winter that adopt functional corduroy fabric of the present invention to make, after adopting JIS L 0,217 103 method to carry out 5 back scrubbing to wash, these trousers according to AATCC TM88 standard its wash non-ironing shape-retaining ability can be more than 3.5 grades, the fine hair conservation rate is more than 4 grades.
The specific embodiment
In the present invention, the method for testing of each related performance is as follows:
(1) spring rate
Get the cloth specimen of 5cm*30cm through each 3 of broadwises.The jaws spacing that the strength and elongation instrument is set is 20cm, draw speed is 20cm/min, sample cloth is sandwiched in jaws, hanging up just loading is 5cm*1m size cloth specimen weight, make the cloth that stretches, measure jaws spacing L(cm while being stretched to 14.7N), the calculating elastic rate, spring rate=(L-20)/20*100%, the mean value of 3 cloth of the broadwise of learning from else's experience;
(2) elastic recovery rate
Get the cloth specimen of 5cm*30cm through each 3 of broadwises.The jaws spacing that the strength and elongation instrument is set is 20cm, and draw speed is 20cm/min, and sample cloth is sandwiched in jaws, and hanging up just loading is 5cm*1m size cloth specimen weight.Make the cloth that stretches, be stretched to 80% rear placement 1 minute of spring rate and then be returned to original position and place 3 minutes.Repeatedly stretch as stated above after 5 times, then move the above loading position of initial loading to.Measure residual elongation, the calculating elastic response rate from the curve of the loading-elongation of record.Elastic recovery rate=(L
1-L)/L*100%.The mean value of 3 cloth of the broadwise of learning from else's experience.L is spring rate be 80% time elongation, L
1It is residual elongation after stretching for 5 times;
(3) heat insulating ability clo value: in the BT-BOX of 40 degree, measure power (W) value that fabric consumes, then be converted into clo value;
(4) easy-care properties: after fabric is made to ready-made clothes, adopt JIS L 0,217 103 method, after carrying out 5 back scrubbing and washing, after hang airing is processed, then confirm size changing rate and the distortion recovery situation at each position of clothes according to AATCC TM88 criterion;
(5) fine hair conservation rate: adopt the method for FZ/T 01033-93, being measured containing the suede rate to mass area ratio;
(6) tear brute force: adopt JIS L1096 D method, the fabric direction of warp and weft is measured.
Below in conjunction with embodiment and comparative example, the invention will be further described.
Embodiment 1
(1) yarn is selected: warp thread adopts the 32S/2 purified cotton yarns; Pile filling adopts the 21S purified cotton yarns; Ground weft is the wrap yarn that the 30S ring spinning line, 40S circular cross section viscose and the 40D spandex that are comprised of the ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre 60% of 0.9D, flat section viscose staple fibre 20% and circular cross section viscose staple fibre 20% form, wherein coat and add man-hour, the drawing-off multiplying power of spandex is 2.5, and the coating twist is 720T/M; Ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre accounts for 28% of whole wrap yarn weight, and flat viscose staple fibre accounts for 9% of wrap yarn weight, and the viscose staple fibre of circular cross section accounts for 57% of wrap yarn overall weight, and spandex accounts for 6% of coating cotton thread overall weight; The mass ratio of 30S ring spinning line and 40S circular cross section viscose is 1:0.74; Pile filling: ground weft=2:1,
(2) weave: the warp thread warp tension is 3.0cN/dtex, and the loom rotating speed is 700rpm, and warp thread and ground weft adopt plain weave to interweave, and make grey cloth;
(3) grey cloth reverse side napping processing: napping adopts pin type napping machine, and napping speed is 20m/min, and it is 3 times that number is returned in napping, and tearing brute force before the fabric napping is 24.8N*57.2N through direction * latitude direction; After napping, the Different Tear Test brute force is through direction * latitude direction=25.9N*51.4N, and before and after the fabric napping, tearing powerful sustainment rate through direction is 110%, and it is 75% that the latitude direction is torn powerful sustainment rate;
(4) the positive clipping of grey cloth: grey cloth is carried out to the pre-heat treatment, the normal temperature bristle, clipping is processed, then the normal temperature bristle, and the technique of singing in front, guarantee surperficial corduroy effect;
(5) after dyeing and finishing, process: adopt REACTIVE DYES to be dyeed at normal temperatures, and carry out infrared predrying, with 100 degree dried by hot air stream at high temperature, and carry out decatize by saturated vapor (100 ℃ ± 2 ℃), the alkali salt fixation, the technique of soaping, hot water wash, the pH value blending, and then carry out the high temperature HEAT SETTING arrangement of 180 degree, the preshrunk of 120 ℃ of rubber blankets, Buddhist nun's blanket preshrunk of 140 degree is processed, preshrunk is processed the wash shrinkage rate warp-wise of rear corduroy fabric in ± 2.5%, reaches the requirement of taking, and acrylic fiber does not dye;
Gained fabric warp-wise coverage coefficient is 900, and the broadwise coverage coefficient is 2250, and through the broadwise coverage coefficient, than for 1:2.5, clo value is 0.71, and the broadwise spring rate is 15%, elastic recovery rate is 90%; Fabric backing is grabbed the suede effect, and surface presents the clipping effect.After the trousers of the autumn and winter season that adopts above-mentioned fabrics to make adopt JIS L 0,217 103 method 5 back scrubbing to wash, according to AATCC TM88 standard, it washs non-ironing shape-retaining ability and can be 4.5 grades; The fine hair conservation rate is 4 grades, comfortable and easy to wear.It is 15.6N*11N that the direction of warp and weft of fabric is torn powerful.
Embodiment 2
(1) yarn is selected: warp thread adopts 80S/2 polyester-cotton blend yarn; Pile filling adopts 32S polyester-cotton blend yarn; Ground weft is the wrap yarn that the 40S ring spinning line, 40S circular cross section viscose and the 70D spandex that are comprised of the ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre 60% of 0.9D, flat section viscose staple fibre 20% and circular cross section viscose staple fibre 20% form, wherein coat and add man-hour, the drawing-off multiplying power of spandex is 3.5, and the coating twist is 1000T/M; Ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre accounts for 32% of whole wrap yarn weight, and flat viscose staple fibre accounts for 11% of wrap yarn weight, and the viscose staple fibre of circular cross section accounts for 51% of wrap yarn overall weight, and spandex accounts for 6% of coating cotton thread overall weight; The mass ratio of 40S ring spinning line and 40S circular cross section viscose is 1:1; Pile filling: ground weft=2:1,
(2) weave, the warp thread warp tension is 1.6cN/dtex, and the loom rotating speed is 500rpm, and warp thread and ground weft adopt 4*2 warp rib to interweave, and make grey cloth;
(3) grey cloth reverse side napping processing: napping adopts pin type napping machine, and napping speed is 15m/min, and it is 2 times that number is returned in napping, and before and after the fabric napping, it is 110% that the latitude direction is torn powerful sustainment rate, and tearing powerful sustainment rate through direction is 75%;
(4) the positive clipping of grey cloth: grey cloth is carried out to the pre-heat treatment, the normal temperature bristle, clipping is processed, then the normal temperature brushing, and the technique of singing in front, guarantee surperficial corduroy effect;
(5) after dyeing and finishing, process: first with DISPERSE DYES degree high temperature 130 degree, terylene is partly dyeed, with activity or reducing dye, cotton, viscose are partly dyeed again, the high temperature HEAT SETTING of then carrying out 180 degree arranges, and carry out the preshrunk of 130 ℃ of rubber blankets, Buddhist nun's blanket preshrunk of 140 degree is processed, preshrunk is processed the wash shrinkage rate warp-wise of rear corduroy fabric in ± 2.5%, reaches the requirement of taking, and acrylic fiber does not dye;
Gained fabric warp-wise coverage coefficient is 1100, and the broadwise coverage coefficient is 2500, and through the broadwise coverage coefficient, than for 1:2.3, clo value is 0.75, and the broadwise spring rate is 17%, elastic recovery rate is 92%; Fabric backing is grabbed the suede effect, and surface presents the clipping effect.After the trousers of the autumn and winter season that adopts above-mentioned fabrics to make adopt JIS L 0,217 103 method 5 back scrubbing to wash, according to AATCC TM88 standard, it washs non-ironing shape-retaining ability and can be 4 grades; The fine hair conservation rate is 4 grades, comfortable and easy to wear.It is 10.5N*10N that the direction of warp and weft of fabric is torn powerful.
Embodiment 3
(1) yarn is selected: warp thread adopts the 80S/2 purified cotton yarns; Pile filling adopts the 80S/2 purified cotton yarns; Ground weft is the wrap yarn that the 40S ring spinning line, 40S circular cross section viscose and the 40D spandex that are comprised of the ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre 60% of 0.9D, flat section viscose staple fibre 20% and circular cross section viscose staple fibre 20% form, wherein coat and add man-hour, the drawing-off multiplying power of spandex is 2.8, and the coating twist is 1000T/M; Ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre accounts for 35% of whole wrap yarn weight, and flat viscose staple fibre accounts for 15% of wrap yarn weight, and the viscose staple fibre of circular cross section accounts for 40% of wrap yarn overall weight, and spandex accounts for 10% of coating cotton thread overall weight;
(2) weave: the warp thread warp tension is 1.2cN/dtex, 24W, and warp thread and ground weft interweave for plain weave, and it is 1/1/1/5 that warp thread and pile filling interweave, and makes grey cloth;
(3) grey cloth reverse side napping processing: napping adopts pin type napping machine, and napping speed is 13m/min, and it is 6 times that number is returned in napping, and before and after the fabric napping, it is 90% that broadwise is torn powerful sustainment rate, and it is 75% that warp-wise is torn powerful sustainment rate;
(4) the positive clipping of grey cloth: grey cloth is carried out to the pre-heat treatment, the normal temperature bristle, clipping is processed, then the normal temperature brushing, and the technique of singing in front, guarantee surperficial corduroy effect;
(5) after dyeing and finishing, process: first with DISPERSE DYES degree high temperature 130 degree, terylene is partly dyeed, with activity or reducing dye, cotton, viscose are partly dyeed again, the high temperature HEAT SETTING of then carrying out 180 degree arranges, and the rubber blanket pre-shrinking that carries out 120 degree is processed, preshrunk is processed the wash shrinkage rate warp-wise of rear corduroy fabric in ± 2.5%, reach the requirement of taking, acrylic fiber does not dye;
Gained fabric warp-wise coverage coefficient is 1176, and the broadwise coverage coefficient is 2444, and through the broadwise coverage coefficient, than for 1:2.1, clo value is 0.72, and the broadwise spring rate is 16%, elastic recovery rate is 91%; Fabric backing is grabbed the suede effect, and surface presents the clipping effect.After the trousers of the autumn and winter season that adopts above-mentioned fabrics to make adopt JIS L 0,217 103 method 5 back scrubbing to wash, according to AATCC TM88 standard, it washs non-ironing shape-retaining ability and can be 3.5 grades; The fine hair conservation rate is 4 grades, comfortable and easy to wear.Fabric through broadwise, to tear powerful be 9.9N*12N.
Embodiment 4
(1) yarn is selected: warp thread adopts the 21S purified cotton yarns; Pile filling adopts the 21S purified cotton yarns; Ground weft is the wrap yarn that the 40S ring spinning line, 40S circular cross section viscose and the 40D spandex that are comprised of the ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre 60% of 0.9D, flat section viscose staple fibre 20% and circular cross section viscose staple fibre 20% form, wherein coat and add man-hour, the drawing-off multiplying power of spandex is 2.6, and the coating twist is 800T/M; Ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre accounts for 28% of whole wrap yarn weight, and flat viscose staple fibre accounts for 9% of wrap yarn weight, and the viscose staple fibre of circular cross section accounts for 57% of wrap yarn overall weight, and spandex accounts for 6% of coating cotton thread overall weight; Pile filling: ground weft=2:1;
(2) weave: the warp thread warp tension is 3.0cN/dtex, 20W, and warp thread and ground weft interweave for plain weave, and it is 1/1/1/3 that warp thread and pile filling interweave, and makes grey cloth;
(3) grey cloth reverse side napping processing: napping adopts pin type napping machine, and napping speed is 10m/min, and it is 6 times that number is returned in napping, and before and after the fabric napping, it is 90% that broadwise is torn powerful sustainment rate, and it is 75% that warp-wise is torn powerful sustainment rate;
(4) the positive clipping of grey cloth: grey cloth is carried out to the pre-heat treatment, the normal temperature bristle, clipping is processed, then the normal temperature brushing, and the technique of singing in front, guarantee surperficial corduroy effect;
(5) after dyeing and finishing, process: first with DISPERSE DYES degree high temperature 130 degree, terylene is partly dyeed, with activity or reducing dye, cotton, viscose are partly dyeed again, the high temperature HEAT SETTING of then carrying out 180 degree arranges, and the rubber blanket pre-shrinking that carries out 130 degree is processed, preshrunk is processed the wash shrinkage rate warp-wise of rear corduroy fabric in ± 2.5%, reach the requirement of taking, acrylic fiber does not dye;
Gained fabric warp-wise coverage coefficient is 1307, and the broadwise coverage coefficient is 2283, and through the broadwise coverage coefficient, than for 1:1.7, clo value is 0.74, and the broadwise spring rate is 17%, elastic recovery rate is 92%; Fabric backing is grabbed the suede effect, and surface presents the clipping effect.After the trousers of the autumn and winter season that adopts above-mentioned fabrics to make adopt JIS L 0,217 103 method 5 back scrubbing to wash, according to AATCC TM88 standard, it washs non-ironing shape-retaining ability and can be 3.5 grades; The fine hair conservation rate is 4 grades, comfortable and easy to wear.Fabric through broadwise, to tear powerful be 12N*13N.
Comparative example 1
(1) yarn is selected: warp thread adopts the 21S purified cotton yarns; Pile filling adopts the 21S purified cotton yarns; Ground weft is the wrap yarn that the 40S ring spinning line, 40S circular cross section viscose and the 40D spandex that are comprised of acrylic staple fibre and circular cross section viscose staple fibre form, and wherein coats and adds man-hour, and the drawing-off multiplying power of spandex is 2.6, and the coating twist is 800T/M; Ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre accounts for 28% of whole wrap yarn weight, and the viscose staple fibre of circular cross section accounts for 66% of wrap yarn overall weight, and spandex accounts for 6% of coating cotton thread overall weight; Pile filling: ground weft=2:1;
(2) weave: the warp thread warp tension is 3.0cN/dtex, 20W, and warp thread and ground weft interweave for plain weave, and it is 1/1/1/3 that warp thread and pile filling interweave, and makes grey cloth;
(3) grey cloth reverse side napping processing: napping adopts pin type napping machine, and napping speed is 10m/min, and it is 6 times that number is returned in napping, and before and after the fabric napping, it is 88% that the latitude direction is torn powerful sustainment rate, and tearing powerful sustainment rate through direction is 75%;
(4) the positive clipping of grey cloth: grey cloth is carried out to the pre-heat treatment, the normal temperature bristle, clipping is processed, then the normal temperature brushing, and the technique of singing in front, guarantee surperficial corduroy effect;
(5) after dyeing and finishing, process: common process;
Gained fabric warp-wise coverage coefficient is 1307, and the broadwise coverage coefficient is 2283, and through the broadwise coverage coefficient, than for 1:1.8, clo value is 0.53, and the broadwise spring rate is 17%, elastic recovery rate is 88%; Fabric backing is grabbed the suede effect, and surface presents the clipping effect.After the trousers of the autumn and winter season that adopts above-mentioned fabrics to make adopt JIS L 0,217 103 method 5 back scrubbing to wash, according to AATCC TM88 standard, it washs non-ironing shape-retaining ability and can be 3 grades; The fine hair conservation rate is 3～4 grades, comfortable and easy to wear.Fabric through broadwise, to tear powerful be 11N*12N.
Claims (8)
1. an ELASTIC CORDUROY fabric, comprise warp thread, pile filling, ground weft, it is characterized in that: in this fabric, warp thread is purified cotton yarns or polyester-cotton blend yarn; Pile filling is cotton textiles or polyester-cotton blend yarn; Ground weft is the spandex covered yarn that contains ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre, flat section viscose staple fibre, circular cross section viscose staple fibre; And this fabric face clipping, reverse side are grabbed suede, and clo value is more than 0.70.
2. ELASTIC CORDUROY fabric according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: described spandex covered yarn is formed by composite yarn, circular cross section viscose, the spandex fibre of ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre, flat section viscose staple fibre and circular cross section viscose staple fibre.
3. ELASTIC CORDUROY fabric according to claim 1 is characterized in that: 40～75 % by weight, the spandex fibre that the viscose staple fibre that in described ground weft, ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre accounts for 5～15 % by weight that 15～35 % by weight of wrap yarn integral body, flat section viscose staple fibre account for wrap yarn integral body, circular cross section accounts for wrap yarn integral body accounts for 6～10 % by weight of wrap yarn integral body.
4. according to the described ELASTIC CORDUROY fabric of claim 1 or 2, it is characterized in that: described warp thread and ground weft interlaced structure are plain weave or plain weave alternative construction.
5. according to the described ELASTIC CORDUROY fabric of claim 1 or 2, it is characterized in that: comparing through the broadwise coverage coefficient of this fabric is 1:1.5～2.5.
6. the production method of the described ELASTIC CORDUROY fabric of claim 1, is characterized in that: comprise the steps:
(1) yarn is selected: purified cotton yarns or polyester-cotton blend yarn are as warp thread, cotton textiles or polyester-cotton blend yarn are as pile filling, the wrap yarn that ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre, flat section viscose staple fibre, circular cross section viscose staple fibre, spandex form is as ground weft, the wrap yarn wherein used as ground weft adds man-hour, the drawing-off multiplying power of spandex is 2.5～3.5, and the coating twist is 650～1000T/M;
(2) weave;
(3) grey cloth reverse side napping: napping adopts pin type napping machine, and napping speed is 10～20m/min, and it is 2～6 times that number is returned in napping;
(4) the positive clipping of grey cloth;
(5) after dyeing and finishing, process: wherein processing adopts the high-temperature shaping of 180～200 degree and the preshrinking process of 120～140 degree afterwards.
7. the production method of ELASTIC CORDUROY fabric according to claim 6, it is characterized in that: described ground weft, first ultra-fine acrylic staple fibre, flat section viscose staple fibre, circular cross section viscose staple fibre are formed to complex yarn, coat and be processed to form spandex covered yarn with circular cross section viscose, spandex fibre again, wherein coat add man-hour described complex yarn and the ratio of circular cross section viscose be 1:0.6～1.5.
8. trousers autumn and winter that adopt the described ELASTIC CORDUROY fabric of claim 1 to make is characterized in that: after these trousers adopt JIS L 0,217 103 method 5 back scrubbing to wash, according to AATCC TM88 standard its wash non-ironing shape-retaining ability can be more than 3.5 grades; The fine hair conservation rate is more than 4 grades.
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| CN201210151995.2A CN103422231B (en) | 2012-05-17 | 2012-05-17 | A kind of elastic corduroy fabric and production method thereof and application |
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| CN201210151995.2A CN103422231B (en) | 2012-05-17 | 2012-05-17 | A kind of elastic corduroy fabric and production method thereof and application |
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| CN103422231B CN103422231B (en) | 2016-06-08 |
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Cited By (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN103734926A (en) * | 2013-12-09 | 2014-04-23 | 吴江市蓓盛纺织品有限公司 | Double-layer trousers |
| CN103820919A (en) * | 2014-02-21 | 2014-05-28 | 绍兴县诚中乐纺织有限公司 | Slanted-strip tight pile corduroy fabric and production method thereof |
| CN106567261A (en) * | 2016-11-04 | 2017-04-19 | 罗莱生活科技股份有限公司 | Dyeing and finishing method of seaweed fiber fabric |
| EP3354778A1 (en) * | 2017-01-26 | 2018-08-01 | Singtex Industrial Co., Ltd. | Woven brushed elastic fabric and method of making the same |
| CN110965187A (en) * | 2019-12-29 | 2020-04-07 | 江苏恒力化纤股份有限公司 | Preparation method of corduroy fabric |
| CN113802312A (en) * | 2021-10-26 | 2021-12-17 | 浙江云中马股份有限公司 | Breadth-reducing napping process and napping finishing equipment for wide leather base cloth |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN103734926A (en) * | 2013-12-09 | 2014-04-23 | 吴江市蓓盛纺织品有限公司 | Double-layer trousers |
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| EP3354778A1 (en) * | 2017-01-26 | 2018-08-01 | Singtex Industrial Co., Ltd. | Woven brushed elastic fabric and method of making the same |
| CN110965187A (en) * | 2019-12-29 | 2020-04-07 | 江苏恒力化纤股份有限公司 | Preparation method of corduroy fabric |
| CN110965187B (en) * | 2019-12-29 | 2021-07-16 | 江苏恒力化纤股份有限公司 | Preparation method of corduroy fabric |
| CN113802312A (en) * | 2021-10-26 | 2021-12-17 | 浙江云中马股份有限公司 | Breadth-reducing napping process and napping finishing equipment for wide leather base cloth |
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| CN103422231B (en) | 2016-06-08 |
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Effective date of registration: 20170907 Address after: 8 building, 200040 overseas Plaza, No. 1601, Jingan District, Shanghai, Nanjing West Road Patentee after: Dongli International Trading (China) Co., Ltd. Address before: 226009 Nantong Province Economic and Technological Development Zone, the New South Road, No. 58, No. Patentee before: Toray Fiber Research Institute (China) Co., Ltd. |
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