CN110699833A - Comfortable knitted sportswear with patterns - Google Patents
Comfortable knitted sportswear with patterns Download PDFInfo
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
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- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/02—Cotton
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- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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Abstract
本发明涉及一种舒适有型的针织运动服装,包括由针织面料拼接而成的服装本体,针织面料包括由双面圆机一体编织的面层、里层以及用于连接面层与里层的绑纱层,面层由面纱交织而成,里层由底纱交织而成,绑纱层由绑纱交织而成,面层包括交替排布的第一纬平纹区和第一珠地组织区,里层包括交替排布的第二纬平纹区和第二珠地组织区,第二珠地组织区由100D/36F的涤纶纱以珠地组织交织而成。本发明在结构上实现了纬平纹和珠地组织的优势互补,从结构上明显提升面层、里层的保型性,针织面料又具有较好的延展性、透气性,穿着体验很舒适。
The invention relates to a comfortable and stylish knitted sportswear, which comprises a garment body formed by splicing knitted fabrics, the knitted fabrics include a surface layer, an inner layer knitted integrally by a double-sided circular knitting machine, and a Yarn binding layer, the surface layer is interlaced by veil, the inner layer is interwoven by bottom yarn, the yarn binding layer is interlaced by binding yarn, and the surface layer includes the first weft plain weave area and the first pique area which are alternately arranged , the inner layer includes alternately arranged second weft plain weave area and second piqué area, and the second piqué area is made of 100D/36F polyester yarn interwoven with piqué. The invention realizes the complementary advantages of the weft plain weave and the pearl weave in structure, obviously improves the shape retention of the surface layer and the inner layer, and the knitted fabric has good ductility and air permeability, and the wearing experience is very comfortable.
Description
技术领域technical field
本发明涉及一种舒适有型的针织运动服装,属服装领域。The invention relates to a comfortable and stylish knitted sportswear, belonging to the field of clothing.
背景技术Background technique
针织面料是通过成圈、集圈和浮线形成的面料。成圈是针织的基本线圈,在纬编过程中,在一个成圈机构中把一根纱线顺序垫放到各根织针上,各织针依次或同时成圈,在纬向形成一个线圈横列,且这一横列中各线圈均与上一横列的相应线圈串套,就使横列与横列之间相互连接,实现的是横向和直向的串套连接。集圈是将纬编机中的一个或前后对角的两个压针三角推上一定高度,当机头带动三角运行时,织针上升到最高点,然后下降到闭口阶段即不再下降,线圈关闭针舌后挂在针杆上,此时针勾勾住新垫放的纱线;当机头反向运行编织下一横列时,针织在三角的作用下可上升到顶点,或下降到最低点,新纱线形成悬弧退圈后与挂在针杆上的旧线圈合并在一起共同脱圈后形成集圈,线圈被拉长,形成透气网眼,悬弧实现的是把临近线圈斜向的连接串套。浮线:在纬编时,某些织针经过一路或几路时不参加编织后,再重新参加编织,这时旧线圈将跨越那些没有参加编织的纱线与新线圈穿套,这些未成圈的纱线处于旧线圈背后形成了浮线,可以将纬向的横向延伸性减少,尺寸稳定得到提高,但不能太长,否则易勾丝。Knitted fabrics are fabrics formed by looping, tucking and floating. Loop forming is the basic loop of knitting. In the weft knitting process, a yarn is sequentially placed on each knitting needle in a loop forming mechanism, and each knitting needle is looped in sequence or at the same time, forming a loop in the weft direction. A course, and each coil in this course is connected in series with the corresponding coils in the previous course, so that the courses are connected to each other, and the horizontal and vertical series connection is realized. The tuck is to push one of the weft knitting machine or the two front and rear diagonal needle cams to a certain height. When the machine head drives the cams to run, the knitting needle rises to the highest point, and then falls to the closed stage and no longer falls. The loop closes the latch and hangs on the needle bar. At this time, the needle hooks the newly placed yarn; when the machine head runs in reverse to knit the next row, the knitting can rise to the top or descend to the bottom under the action of the triangle. At the same time, the new yarn forms a hanging arc and withdraws the loop, and merges with the old loop hanging on the needle bar to form a tuck, and the loop is elongated to form a breathable mesh. connection string set. Floating thread: During weft knitting, some knitting needles do not participate in knitting after passing through one or several routes, and then re-join the knitting. At this time, the old stitches will cross the yarns that did not participate in knitting and the new stitches. The yarn is behind the old loop to form a floating thread, which can reduce the lateral extensibility of the weft and improve the dimensional stability, but it should not be too long, otherwise it will be easy to snag.
针织运动服装,主要包括针织套头卫衣、针织拉链衫和针织长裤,既具有一定的保暖性又具有良好的透气性,适合在春秋季节、气温大约在10-20℃的情况下穿着,深得广大消费者的喜爱。目前市场上,主流的春秋针织运动套装主要采用如下方案来实现:Knitted sportswear, mainly including knitted pullover sweater, knitted zipper sweater and knitted trousers, has both a certain degree of warmth retention and good air permeability. The majority of consumers love. At present, the mainstream spring and autumn knitted sports suits are mainly realized by the following schemes:
(1)第一代夹丝布、空气层:面层、里层皆是纬平纹,一般选用26S-40S的精梳棉,中间绑纱层一般选用75D-150D的涤纶纱,形成了棉夹涤的结构,或一层选用26S-40S的精梳棉,另一层选用50-100D涤纶纱,绑纱层选用75-150D的涤纶纱,形成棉涤夹涤的结构,优点是至少有一面是棉,做面层棉质感档次高,做里层柔软亲肤,成本便宜、厚实、保暖性好、手感挺括,目前应用最多;面、里层选用50-100D涤纶纱,绑纱层选用75-150D的涤纶纱,形成涤夹涤结构,优点是面、里层都是涤纶材质,成本便宜、厚实、保暖性好、手感挺括、有型、不起球,缺点是化纤感档次低,亲肤性不好,贴身穿着不舒服,目前应用较少。(1) The first generation of silk cloth and air layer: the surface layer and the inner layer are weft plain weave, generally 26S-40S combed cotton is used, and 75D-150D polyester yarn is generally used for the middle yarn binding layer, forming a cotton clip Polyester structure, or one layer uses 26S-40S combed cotton, the other layer uses 50-100D polyester yarn, and the binding layer uses 75-150D polyester yarn to form a cotton-polyester-polyester structure. The advantage is that at least one side is used. It is cotton. The top layer has a high-quality cotton texture, and the inner layer is soft and skin-friendly. It is cheap, thick, warm, and has a crisp feel. It is currently the most used; -150D polyester yarn forms a polyester sandwich polyester structure. The advantage is that the surface and the inner layer are all polyester material, which is cheap, thick, warm, and feels crisp, stylish, and not pilling. The disadvantage is that the grade of chemical fiber is low, pro- The skin is not good, and it is uncomfortable to wear close to the body. At present, it is less used.
上述的这类面料,为实现手感挺括和厚实保暖性,面里层都是纬平纹,绑纱通过较粗的涤纶纱采用双面罗纹组织连接起来面里层,面层自身、里层自身、绑纱层,都是由成圈连接起来的,是在横向和直向连接,就如四边形一样,斜向易发生变形,再加上延展性差,恢复性差,在穿着时易起拱、易变形,在洗涤时易变形,衣服穿着不持久。The above-mentioned fabrics, in order to achieve a crisp feel and thick warmth retention, the surface and the inner layer are weft plain weave, and the binding yarn is connected by a thick polyester yarn with a double-sided rib weave. The surface layer itself, the inner layer itself, The yarn binding layers are all connected by looping, which are connected in the horizontal and vertical directions. Just like a quadrilateral, it is easy to deform in the oblique direction. In addition, the ductility is poor and the recovery is poor. It is easy to arch and deform when wearing. , It is easy to deform when washing, and the clothes do not last for a long time.
(2)第二代夹丝布、空气层:(2) The second generation of wire cloth, air layer:
第二代夹丝布、空气层面料通过改变绑纱和改变组织来提升面料的性能。The second generation of silk cloth and air layer fabric improves the performance of the fabric by changing the binding yarn and changing the organization.
改变绑纱:面里层可以是26-40S的精梳棉或50-100D涤纶纱,绑纱选用20-70D氨纶,形成夹氨纶结构,氨纶通过双面罗纹的形式连接面里层,可以获得良好的弹性,在穿着和洗涤时不变形、不起拱,但通过氨纶的强力收缩,结构非常紧密,绑纱层很薄,蓬松度不够,不够丰厚,保暖性差。Change the binding yarn: the surface and inner layer can be 26-40S combed cotton or 50-100D polyester yarn, and 20-70D spandex is used for the binding yarn to form a spandex structure. Good elasticity, no deformation or arching during wearing and washing, but through the strong contraction of spandex, the structure is very tight, the yarn binding layer is very thin, the bulkiness is not enough, not rich enough, and the warmth retention is poor.
改变组织:由于集圈组织中最有代表的是珠地组织,是由成圈和集圈按一定规律织造而成的凹凸组织,布面呈现网眼状,与针织纬平纹相比,手感更干爽挺括,穿着更有型,同时更透气透湿,散热更好,穿着更凉爽,但手感粗糙,亲肤性不佳,因此只能面层由纬平纹改成珠地组织,里层保持纬平纹,虽然能够改善第一代夹丝布、空气层易起拱、易变形的技术难题,但面层手感太粗糙,起拱、变形的问题依然在。Change the organization: Since the most representative of the tuck organization is the pearl weave, it is a concave-convex weave made of tucks and tucks according to a certain rule. Stiff, more stylish, more breathable and moisture-permeable, better heat dissipation, cooler to wear, but rough to the touch and poor skin-friendly, so only the surface layer can be changed from weft plain weave to pique, and the inner layer maintains weft plain weave , Although it can improve the technical problems of the first generation of wire cloth, the air layer is easy to arch and deform, but the surface layer feels too rough, and the problems of arching and deformation still exist.
鉴于此,本发明人对上述问题进行深入的研究,遂有本案产生。In view of this, the present inventor has conducted in-depth research on the above-mentioned problems, resulting in this case.
发明内容SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
本发明的目的在于提供一种舒适性佳、保暖性和保型性好的针织运动服装。The purpose of the present invention is to provide a knitted sports garment with good comfort, warmth and shape retention.
为了达到上述目的,本发明采用这样的技术方案:In order to achieve the above object, the present invention adopts such technical scheme:
一种舒适有型的针织运动服装,包括由针织面料拼接而成的服装本体,所述针织面料包括由双面圆机一体编织的面层、里层以及用于连接面层与里层的绑纱层,面层由面纱交织而成,里层由底纱交织而成,绑纱层由绑纱交织而成,所述面层包括交替排布的第一纬平纹区和第一珠地组织区,第一纬平纹区由40S/1的棉纱以纬平纹的编织方式交织而成,第一珠地组织区由100D/36F的涤纶纱以珠地组织交织而成,绑纱为100D/36F的涤纶纱,所述里层包括交替排布的第二纬平纹区和第二珠地组织区,第二纬平纹区由32S/1棉纱以纬平纹的编织方式交织而成,第二珠地组织区由100D/36F的涤纶纱以珠地组织交织而成。A comfortable and stylish knitted sports garment, comprising a garment body formed by splicing knitted fabrics, the knitted fabrics comprising a surface layer, an inner layer and a binding used for connecting the surface layer and the inner layer integrally knitted by a double-sided circular knitting machine. Yarn layer, the surface layer is formed by interlacing the veil, the inner layer is formed by interlacing the bottom yarn, and the binding yarn layer is formed by interweaving the binding yarn, and the surface layer includes the first weft plain weave area and the first pique weave arranged alternately The first weft plain weave area is made of 40S/1 cotton yarns interwoven with weft and plain weave, and the first piqué area is made of 100D/36F polyester yarns interwoven with piqué, and the binding yarn is 100D/36F The inner layer includes alternately arranged second weft plain weave area and second pique weave area, the second weft plain weave area is made of 32S/1 cotton yarn woven in weft plain weave, the second pique weave area The weave area is made of 100D/36F polyester yarn interwoven with piqué.
作为本发明的一种优选方式,所述第一纬平纹区与所述第一珠地组织区的面积比为3:1,所述第二纬平纹区与所述第二珠地组织区的面积比为3:1。As a preferred mode of the present invention, the area ratio of the first weft plain weave region to the first pique weave region is 3:1, and the area ratio of the second weft plain weave region to the second pique weave region is 3:1. The area ratio is 3:1.
作为本发明的一种优选方式,双面圆机以48路为一个大循环,一个大循环分成四个中循环,每个中循环由12路组成,每个中循环分成四个小循环,每个小循环由3路组成,第1路至第12路构成第一个中循环,第13路至第24路构成第二个中循环,第25路至第36路构成第三个中循环,第37路至第48路构成第四个中循环,As a preferred mode of the present invention, the double-sided circular knitting machine uses 48 circuits as a large cycle, one large cycle is divided into four middle cycles, each middle cycle consists of 12 channels, and each middle cycle is divided into four small cycles, each A small loop consists of 3 circuits, the 1st to 12th circuits form the first middle circuit, the 13th to 24th circuits form the second middle circuit, and the 25th to 36th circuits form the third middle circuit. No. 37 to No. 48 form the fourth middle loop,
在第一个中循环中:每个小循环中,一路上针盘编织底纱,下针盘不编织,另一路下针盘编织面纱,上针盘编织,再一路,上针盘和下针盘交替编织绑纱形成1+1罗纹组织,前三个小循环中,面纱采用40S/1的棉纱,底纱采用32S/1的棉纱,绑纱采用100D/36F的涤纶纱,第四个小循环中,面纱、底纱以及绑纱均采用100D/36F的涤纶纱;In the first middle cycle: in each small cycle, one way up the dial knits the bottom yarn, the lower dial does not knit, the other way lower dial knits the veil, the upper dial knits, and then one way, the upper dial and the lower needle In the first three small loops, the veil is made of 40S/1 cotton yarn, the bottom yarn is made of 32S/1 cotton yarn, and the binding yarn is made of 100D/36F polyester yarn. In the cycle, 100D/36F polyester yarn is used for the veil, bottom yarn and binding yarn;
在第二个中循环中:前三个小循环,每个小循环中,一路上针盘编织底纱,下针盘不编织,另一路下针盘编织面纱,上针盘编织,再一路,上针盘和下针盘交替编织绑纱形成1+1罗纹组织,前三个小循环中,面纱采用40S/1的棉纱,底纱采用32S/1的棉纱,绑纱采用100D/36F的涤纶纱;第四个小循环中,一路下针盘的针织以成圈和集圈方式交替编织面纱,上针盘不编织,另一路上针盘的针织以成圈和集圈方式交替编织底纱,下针盘不编织,再一路,上针盘和下针盘交替编织绑纱形成1+1罗纹组织,第四个小循环中,面纱、底纱以及绑纱均采用100D/36F的涤纶纱;In the second middle cycle: in the first three small cycles, in each small cycle, one way is to knit the bottom yarn on the upper dial, and the lower dial does not knit, and the other way, the lower dial knits the veil, the upper dial knits, and then one way, The upper dial and the lower dial are alternately knitted and tied to form a 1+1 rib weave. In the first three small cycles, the veil is made of 40S/1 cotton yarn, the bottom yarn is made of 32S/1 cotton yarn, and the binding yarn is made of 100D/36F polyester. Yarn; in the fourth small cycle, the knitting of the lower needle plate on one route alternately knits the veil in the form of looping and tucking, the upper needle plate is not knitted, and the knitting of the other needle plate alternately knits the bottom yarn in the form of looping and tucking , the lower needle plate is not knitted, and then the upper needle plate and the lower needle plate are alternately knitted to form a 1+1 rib structure. In the fourth small cycle, 100D/36F polyester yarn is used for the veil, bottom yarn and binding yarn ;
在第三个中循环中:每个小循环中,一路上针盘编织底纱,下针盘不编织,另一路下针盘编织面纱,上针盘编织,再一路,上针盘和下针盘交替编织绑纱形成1+1罗纹组织,前三个小循环中,面纱采用40S/1的棉纱,底纱采用32S/1的棉纱,绑纱采用100D/36F的涤纶纱,第四个小循环中,面纱、底纱以及绑纱均采用100D/36F的涤纶纱;In the third middle cycle: in each small cycle, one way is to knit the bottom yarn on the upper dial, the lower dial does not knit, the other way lower dial knits the veil, the upper dial knits, and another way, the upper dial and the lower needle In the first three small loops, the veil is made of 40S/1 cotton yarn, the bottom yarn is made of 32S/1 cotton yarn, and the binding yarn is made of 100D/36F polyester yarn. In the cycle, 100D/36F polyester yarn is used for the veil, bottom yarn and binding yarn;
在第四个中循环中:前三个小循环,每个小循环中,一路上针盘编织底纱,下针盘不编织,另一路下针盘编织面纱,上针盘编织,再一路,上针盘和下针盘交替编织绑纱形成1+1罗纹组织,前三个小循环中,面纱采用40S/1的棉纱,底纱采用32S/1的棉纱,绑纱采用100D/36F的涤纶纱;第四个小循环中,一路下针盘的针织以集圈和成圈方式交替编织面纱,上针盘不编织,另一路上针盘的针织以集圈和成圈方式交替编织底纱,下针盘不编织,再一路,上针盘和下针盘交替编织绑纱形成1+1罗纹组织,第四个小循环中,面纱、底纱以及绑纱均采用100D/36F的涤纶纱。In the fourth middle cycle: the first three small cycles, in each small cycle, one way the upper dial knits the bottom yarn, the lower dial does not knit, the other way the lower dial knits the veil, the upper dial knits, and then one way, The upper dial and the lower dial are alternately knitted and tied to form a 1+1 rib weave. In the first three small cycles, the veil is made of 40S/1 cotton yarn, the bottom yarn is made of 32S/1 cotton yarn, and the binding yarn is made of 100D/36F polyester. Yarn; in the fourth small cycle, the knitting of the lower needle plate on one route alternately knits the veil in the way of tuck and loop formation, the upper needle plate is not knitted, and the knitting of the needle plate on the other route alternately knits the bottom yarn in the way of tuck and loop formation , the lower needle plate is not knitted, and then the upper needle plate and the lower needle plate are alternately knitted to form a 1+1 rib structure. In the fourth small cycle, 100D/36F polyester yarn is used for the veil, bottom yarn and binding yarn .
采用本发明的技术方案,在结构上实现了纬平纹和珠地组织的优势互补,从结构上明显提升面层、里层的保型性,在正面形成凹凸感存在却不明显的小珠地效果,正面手感接近纬平纹的柔软细腻,在反面形成凹凸感几乎不存在的小珠地效果,使里层手感达到了纬平纹的柔软细腻,贴身穿着很亲肤,改善了普通珠地凹凸感很明显、手感太粗糙的技术难题,实现了纬平纹和珠地的优势互补;在材质上实现了棉和涤纶的优势互补,同时可以拥有较厚的绑纱层,使面料非常丰厚,可以保留大量空气,具有良好的保暖性;同时手感柔软细腻,贴身穿着很亲肤;同时针织面料又具有较好的延展性、透气性,穿着体验很舒适。By adopting the technical scheme of the present invention, the complementary advantages of the weft plain weave and the pearly weave are realized in the structure, the shape retention of the surface layer and the inner layer is obviously improved from the structure, and the small pearly ground with uneven feeling but not obvious is formed on the front. The effect is that the front hand feels close to the soft and delicate weft plain weave, and on the reverse side, a small bead effect is formed where the bumpy feeling almost does not exist, so that the inner layer feels as soft and delicate as the weft plain weave, and it is very skin-friendly when worn close to the body. Obviously, the technical problem that the hand feels too rough realizes the complementary advantages of weft plain weave and pearl ground; in terms of material, it realizes the complementary advantages of cotton and polyester, and at the same time, it can have a thicker yarn binding layer, which makes the fabric very rich and can be retained. A lot of air, with good warmth retention; at the same time, it feels soft and delicate, and it is very skin-friendly to wear; at the same time, the knitted fabric has good ductility and breathability, and the wearing experience is very comfortable.
附图说明Description of drawings
图1为本发明的结构示意图。FIG. 1 is a schematic structural diagram of the present invention.
图2为本发明中针织面料的结构简图。Figure 2 is a schematic diagram of the structure of the knitted fabric in the present invention.
图3为本发明中第一个中循环的编织原理示意图。FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram of the weaving principle of the first intermediate cycle in the present invention.
图4为本发明中第二个中循环的编织原理示意图。FIG. 4 is a schematic diagram of the weaving principle of the second medium cycle in the present invention.
图5为本发明中第三个中循环的编织原理示意图。FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of the weaving principle of the third medium cycle in the present invention.
图6为本发明中第四中循环的编织原理示意图。FIG. 6 is a schematic diagram of the weaving principle of the fourth middle cycle in the present invention.
图中:In the picture:
面层10里层20
绑纱层30
具体实施方式Detailed ways
为了进一步解释本发明的技术方案,下面结合附图进行详细阐述。In order to further explain the technical solutions of the present invention, a detailed description is given below with reference to the accompanying drawings.
参照图1至图6,一种舒适有型的针织运动服装,包括由针织面料拼接而成的服装本体,所述针织面料包括由双面圆机一体编织的面层10、里层20以及用于连接面层10与里层20的绑纱层30,面层10由面纱交织而成,里层20由底纱交织而成,绑纱层30由绑纱交织而成,所述面层10包括交替排布的第一纬平纹区和第一珠地组织区,第一纬平纹区由40S/1的棉纱以纬平纹的编织方式交织而成,第一珠地组织区由100D/36F的涤纶纱以珠地组织交织而成,绑纱为100D/36F的涤纶纱,所述里层20包括交替排布的第二纬平纹区和第二珠地组织区,第二纬平纹区由32S/1棉纱以纬平纹的编织方式交织而成,第二珠地组织区由100D/36F的涤纶纱以珠地组织交织而成。1 to 6, a comfortable and stylish knitted sportswear includes a garment body spliced by knitted fabrics, the knitted fabrics include a
本发明在材料的选择上,选用涤纶和棉纱,本发明的D,业界称为丹尼尔数,其系指9000米丝的重量(单位为克)。本发明中的F,是指一根纱线中微细纤维的根数。In the selection of materials, polyester and cotton yarns are used in the present invention. D in the present invention is called denier number in the industry, which refers to the weight of 9000 meters of silk (unit: grams). In the present invention, F refers to the number of fine fibers in one yarn.
涤纶挺括、有型,导热系数0.084W/(m·K),比棉稍高,只有锦纶的三分之一,春秋贴身穿无锦纶的冰凉感,蓬松度又很高,保留空气的能力较强,拥有和棉相媲美的保暖性,但手感粗糙,亲肤性不佳,做夹丝布、空气层,最适宜做绑纱层30。Polyester is stiff and stylish, with a thermal conductivity of 0.084W/(m·K), which is slightly higher than cotton and only one-third of that of nylon. It has a cool feeling without nylon in spring and autumn, and has a high bulkiness and the ability to retain air. Strong, it has the warmth comparable to cotton, but it feels rough and has poor skin-friendly properties. It is the most suitable for the
棉柔软亲肤性、吸湿无静电、棉质感档次高,导热系数0.071-0.073W/(m·K),导热系数比粘胶高,比涤纶低,春秋贴身穿很舒适,蓬松度很高,保留空气的能力较强,具有良好的保暖性,做夹丝布、空气层的面层10、里层20都比较合适,但存在起皱不易消失,保型性差,在穿着和洗涤时易起拱、易变形。Cotton is soft and skin-friendly, hygroscopic and non-static, high-grade cotton texture, thermal conductivity 0.071-0.073W/(m·K), thermal conductivity higher than viscose, lower than polyester, comfortable to wear in spring and autumn, high bulkiness , the ability to retain air is strong, and it has good heat retention. It is suitable for the
因此,本发明选用的材质是棉和涤纶,难点是解决棉易变形的难题。Therefore, the materials selected in the present invention are cotton and polyester, and the difficulty is to solve the problem that cotton is easily deformed.
本发明的面层10纱线选用JC40S/1,少部分是DTY SD 100D/36F涤纶纱,里层20纱线选用JC32S/1,少部分是DTY SD 100D/36F涤纶纱,,绑纱选用DTY SD 100D/36F涤纶纱,JC表示精梳纯棉,DTY为拉伸变形丝,详细说明如下:The
①面、里层20用棉纤维,328棉花是国标规定的标准品级(第一个数字代表等级,后两个数字表纤维长度),等级为3级,纤维长度28mm,可以纺40-60S棉纱,本发明选用的棉花,3级以上,纤维长度在28mm以上,纤维强度4-5cN/dtex,短纤率12%,纤维长度均匀,含杂率2.5%,马克隆值3.7-4.2,棉花品质是国内细绒棉当中比较好的,可以使棉纱强力更高、表面更光洁、色泽更好、条干更均匀、疵点更少、杂质较少,改善布面毛羽多、起毛起球的问题;①The surface and
②纺纱方式选用紧密赛络纺,形成的织物布面平整光滑,手感柔软,透气性好,极致高档,进一步改善布面毛羽多、起毛起球问题;②The spinning method adopts compact siro spinning, and the resulting fabric is flat and smooth, soft to the touch, good air permeability, and extremely high-grade, which further improves the problem of excessive hairiness and pilling on the fabric surface;
③面层10选用JC40S/1,纱线较细,使面层10手感更加柔软细腻,品质感更高,且又有较好的挺括度,二者得到了很好的平衡,纱支再粗会使布面触感变差,品质感下降,纱支再细会使面层10挺括度明显下降;
里层20选用32S/1,纱线较粗使,使里层20在保证柔软亲肤的基础上,最大程度的提升挺括度,二者得到了很好的平衡,纱支再粗会使里层20亲肤性明显下降,穿着体验不舒适,纱支再细,会使里层20的挺括度明显下降;The
④绑纱选用DTY SD 100D/36F涤纶纱,该丹尼数比较合适,丹尼数再小,即大多使用75D,也是最常用的绑纱规格,会使绑纱层30变薄,保留空气的能力大大下降,保暖性变差,且纱线变细,不能很好的支撑面、里层20,挺括度也下降,丹尼数再大,即少数使用150D的,会粗过面纱,使面层10不能很好的遮盖绑纱线圈;④DTY SD 100D/36F polyester yarn is used for the tying yarn. The denier number is more suitable. No matter how small the denier number is, that is, 75D is mostly used, which is also the most commonly used tying yarn specification, which will make the tying
绑纱位于中间层,涤纶材质本身挺括有型,再加上纺纱方式为DTY,属于拉伸变形纱,像弹簧般卷曲,丹尼数很高,F数很低,一方面纱线挺而硬,使面料挺括有型,另一方面纱线较粗,使中间层比较厚,可保留大量空气,使面料厚实、保暖性好,其中SD表示半消光;The tying yarn is located in the middle layer. The polyester material itself is crisp and stylish. In addition, the spinning method is DTY, which belongs to the stretch textured yarn, which is curled like a spring. The Danny number is high and the F number is low. Hard, making the fabric crisp and stylish, on the other hand, the thicker yarn makes the middle layer thicker, which can retain a lot of air, making the fabric thick and warm, where SD means semi-matte;
综上所述,面层10的JC40S/1相当于133D,JC32S/1相等于166D,绑纱为100D,面里层20纱线都比绑纱粗,可以很好的遮盖绑纱线圈,在面、里层20体现的都是棉的特性,而且面层10棉纱较细有较好挺括度,里层20棉纱最粗有良好的挺括度,绑纱相对最细有最好的挺括度,面层10受到绑纱层30、里层20的强力支撑,结构更稳定,比大部分夹丝布、空气层面、里层20选用同等纱支、使用75D涤纶做为绑纱,具有更好的挺括度和保暖性。To sum up, the JC40S/1 of the
(3)织造(3) Weaving
本发明的组织结构是空气层组织,面、里层20是细密珠地,详细说明如下:The tissue structure of the present invention is an air layer tissue, and the surface and
1、5、7、11、13、17、19、23、25、29、31、35、37、41、43、47路是反面线圈,即里层线圈20;1, 5, 7, 11, 13, 17, 19, 23, 25, 29, 31, 35, 37, 41, 43, 47 are the reverse coils, that is, the
2、4、8、10、14、16、20、22、26、28、32、34、38、40、44、46路是正面线圈,即面层线圈10;2, 4, 8, 10, 14, 16, 20, 22, 26, 28, 32, 34, 38, 40, 44, 46 are the front coils, that is, the
3、6、9、12、15、18、21、24、27、30、33、36、39、42、45、48路是1+1罗纹组织。3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30, 33, 36, 39, 42, 45, 48 are 1+1 rib weave.
①每3路组成1个小循环:首先,第3路编织第1个成圈系统,使用DTY SD 100D/36F涤纶纱编织一个1+1罗纹横列作为绑纱;其次,第2路编织第2个成圈系统,上针盘不编织,下针盘编织,下针盘编织的是面层10,自身编织的正面线圈和已经形成的第3路1+1罗纹的正面罗纹线圈串套在一起;其次,第1路编织第3个成圈系统,下针盘不编织,上针盘编织平针,上针盘编织的是里层20,自身形成的反面线圈和已经形成的第3路1+1罗纹的反面罗纹线圈串套在一起。①Every 3 circuits form a small cycle: First, the 3rd circuit knits the first loop forming system, using DTY SD 100D/36F polyester yarn to weave a 1+1 rib course as the binding yarn; secondly, the 2nd circuit knits the second A loop-forming system, the upper dial is not knitted, the lower dial is knitted, the lower dial is knitted with the
通过三路的配合,形成了由面层10、中间层(即绑纱层30)、里层20组成的空气层组织结构,绑纱挺而硬,能够更好的支撑面、里层20,使面料挺括有型,且比较粗,使中间层比较厚,可保留大量空气,使面料比75D涤纶做为绑纱更加厚实、更加保暖。Through the three-way cooperation, an air layer structure composed of the
②每4个小循环12路组成一个中循环,4个中循环共48路组成一个完整的大循环:②Every 4 small cycles of 12 circuits form a medium cycle, and a total of 48 circuits in 4 medium cycles form a complete large cycle:
首先,一个中循环中的前3个小循环,面层10纱线使用JC40S/1,编织的是纬平纹,相当于133D,比中间层绑纱100D要粗较多,可以很好的遮盖中间层绑纱100D形成的1+1罗纹的正面罗纹线圈,在面层10体现的是JC40S/1的全棉特性。First of all, for the first 3 small loops in a medium loop, the
其次,一个中循环中的前3个小循环,里层20纱线使用JC32S/1,编织的是纬平纹,相当于166D,比中间层绑纱100D要粗很多,可以很好的遮盖中间层绑纱100D形成的1+1罗纹的反面罗纹线圈,在里层20体现的是JC32S/1的全棉特性。Secondly, for the first 3 small loops in a medium loop, the
然后,一个中循环中的第4个小循环,面层10纱线使用的是100D,在第一个中循环中,编织的是纬平纹,就是成圈(KKKKKKKK);第二个中循环编织的是成圈+集圈(KTKTKTKT),K表示成圈,T表示集圈;第三个中循环编织的是纬平纹,就是成圈(KKKKKKKK),第四个中循环编织的是集圈+成圈(TKTKTKTK),从而形成4模单珠地,确保面层10在成圈横向、直向连接的基础上,新增集圈的斜向连接,使面层10由第一代夹丝布、空气层类似于四边形连接,变成三角形连接,使面层10连接更稳定,在面层10上出现暗斜纹,从结构上明显改善第一代夹丝布、空气层易起拱、易变形的技术难题,而且与中间层绑纱100D粗细一样,可以较好的遮盖中间层绑纱100D形成的1+1罗纹的正面罗纹线圈,即使有一定漏出也没问题,这个部位用纱一样,体现的是100D的涤纶特性,更重要的是,每16路正面线圈才有一个完整的4模单珠地循环,珠地组织占比只有25%,其余12路是纬平纹,占比75%,排列是3路纬平纹+1路4模单珠地组织,珠地组织被分散,珠地组织用纱100D涤纶纱比纬平纹用纱JC40S/1细很多,形成凹凸感存在却不明显的小珠地效果,使面层10手感细腻柔软,改善了普通珠地凹凸感很明显、手感太粗糙的技术难题。Then, in the 4th small cycle in a medium cycle, the yarn of the
最后,一个中循环中的第四个小循环,里层20纱线使用的是100D,在第一个中循环编织的是纬平纹,就是成圈(KKKKKKKK),第二个中循环编织的是成圈+集圈(KTKTKTKT),第三个中循环编织的是纬平纹,就是成圈(KKKKKKKK),第四个中循环编织的是集圈+成圈(TKTKTKTK),从而形成4模单珠地,确保里层20在成圈横向、直向连接的基础上,新增集圈的斜向连接,使里层20由第一代夹丝布、空气层类似于四边形连接,变成三角形连接,使里层20连接更稳定,在里层20上出现暗斜纹,从结构上明显改善第一代夹丝布、空气层易起拱、易变形的技术难题,而且与中间层绑纱100D粗细一样,可以较好的遮盖中间层绑纱100D形成的1+1罗纹的反面罗纹线圈,就是有一定漏出也没问题,这个部位用纱一样,体现的是100D的涤纶特性,更重要的是,每16路反面线圈才有一个完整的4模单珠地循环,珠地组织占比只有25%,其余12路是纬平纹,占比75%,排列是3路纬平纹+1路4模单珠地组织,珠地组织被分散,珠地组织用纱100涤纶纱比纬平纹用纱JC32S细很多,形成凹凸感几乎不存在的小珠地效果,使里层20手感细腻柔软,改善了普通珠地凹凸感很明显、手感太粗糙的技术难题,贴身穿着很亲肤。Finally, in the fourth small loop in a middle loop, the
总之,面层10、里层20各25%的编织路改成了珠地组织,实现了面、里层20三角连接,从结构上明显提升面里层20的保型性,实现了纬平纹和珠地组织的优势互补,且面层10、里层20各25%的材质改成了涤纶,纱线较粗,比棉纱更加挺而硬,进一步提升面、里层20的保型性,面层10、里层20各75%棉材质的存在,使整体视觉、触感还都是棉材质,实现了涤纶材质和棉材质的优势互补。In a word, 25% of the weaving paths of the
③在织造时,面层10的JC40S/1占比(质量比)25%,面层10100D涤纶丝占比8.4%,共占比33.4%,里层20的JC32S/1占比30%,里层20100D涤纶纱占比10%,共占比40%,中间层100D涤纶纱占比26.6%,由面层10JC40S/1、里层20JC32S/1形成的纬平纹线圈,由面层10100D、里层20100D涤纶纱形成的4模单珠线圈,中间层绑纱100D涤纶纱形成的1+1罗纹线圈,从各个纱支的配比、到各个纱支线圈长度的设定,都是紧密设定,使面层10自身、里层20自身、中间层与面、里层20实现了极致紧密相连,进一步提升面料的保型性。③ During weaving, JC40S/1 of the
(4)染整:(4) Dyeing and finishing:
①蚀毛:用生物酶对棉织物表面进行处理以达到提高布面光洁度,提高面料抗起毛起球性能。① Erosion: The surface of cotton fabric is treated with biological enzymes to improve the surface finish of the fabric and improve the anti-pilling performance of the fabric.
②去油:为保证后续面料染色效果及成品面料手感,坯布需要经过两道工序去除坯布上的油剂,先经过除油机除油,再落缸煮布除油。②Degreasing: In order to ensure the dyeing effect of the subsequent fabrics and the feel of the finished fabrics, the grey fabric needs to go through two processes to remove the oil on the grey fabric.
③预定:染色前,对坯布进行预定型,让布面充分回缩。③Predetermination: Before dyeing, pre-type the grey cloth to allow the cloth surface to fully retract.
④染涤:预定型结束后,进入染缸先用分散染料染涤纶。④Dyeing polyester: After pre-setting, enter the dyeing vat to dye polyester with disperse dyes.
⑤中定:染涤结束立即进行中定型,来消除染色造成的折皱问题,并再回缩布面。⑤ Intermediate setting: Immediately after the dyeing and polyester finishing, the intermediate setting is carried out to eliminate the wrinkle problem caused by dyeing, and then the cloth surface is retracted.
⑥染棉:再使用活性染料染棉,3路棉+1路涤纶排列,棉涤的上色有差异,棉比较暗,涤纶比较亮,经染色后形成了若隐若现的暗珠地效果。⑥Dyeing cotton: Then use reactive dyes to dye cotton, 3-way cotton + 1-way polyester arrangement, the coloring of cotton and polyester is different, cotton is darker, polyester is brighter, after dyeing, a looming dark pearl effect is formed.
⑦成定:在染棉结束,使用低温定型,并添加弹力助剂。⑦Setting: At the end of dyeing cotton, use low temperature setting, and add elastic auxiliaries.
正常的是1次定型,本发明改成了三次,得到面料成品,使面料得到充分收缩,平整光洁不失丰厚,保暖性好,极致紧密,挺括有型,手感柔软细腻,形成若隐若现的暗小珠地风格并带暗斜纹,风格时尚新颖,成份55%棉45%聚酯纤维,克重为310g/m2,幅宽74英寸,纱支JC40S/1 25%+It is normal to set the shape once, but the present invention is changed to three times to obtain the finished fabric, so that the fabric can be fully shrunk, smooth and clean without losing its richness, good heat retention, extremely tight, crisp and stylish, soft and delicate to the touch, forming a looming dark small. Piqué style with dark twill, fashionable and fashionable, composition 55% cotton 45% polyester, gram weight 310g/m 2 , width 74 inches, yarn count JC40S/1 25%+
DTY100D/36F 45%+JC32S/1 30%。DTY100D/36F 45%+JC32S/1 30%.
本发明具有如下特点:The present invention has the following characteristics:
(1)在结构上实现了纬平纹和珠地组织的优势互补:面、里层20各25%的编织路改成了珠地组织,确保面、里层20在成圈横向、直向连接的基础上,新增集圈的斜向连接,从原来的四边形连接变成三角形连接,使面、里层20连接更稳定,从结构上明显提升面、里层20的保型性,而且排列是3路纬平纹+1路4模单珠地组织,珠地组织被分散,珠地组织用纱100D涤纶纱比纬平纹面层10用纱JC40S/1(133D)细33D,在正面形成凹凸感存在却不明显的小珠地效果,正面手感接近纬平纹的柔软细腻,比纬平纹里层20用纱JC32S/1(166D)细66D,在反面形成凹凸感几乎不存在的小珠地效果,使里层20手感达到了纬平纹的柔软细腻,贴身穿着很亲肤,改善了普通珠地凹凸感很明显、手感太粗糙的技术难题,实现了纬平纹和珠地的优势互补。(1) The complementary advantages of weft plain weave and pique weave are realized in structure: 25% of the weaving paths of the surface and
(2)在材质上实现了棉和涤纶的优势互补:面层10、里层20各25%的材质改成了涤纶,纱线较粗,比棉纱更加挺而硬,进一步提升面、里层20的保型性,面层10、里层20各75%棉材质的存在,使整体视觉、触感还都是棉材质,实现了涤纶材质和棉材质的优势互补。(2) The complementary advantages of cotton and polyester are realized in terms of materials: 25% of the materials of the
(3)在外观上,布面平整光洁,具有若隐若现的暗小珠地效果,带暗斜纹,肌理感新颖时尚,比纬平纹更能满足90后个性化、时尚化的需求。(3) In terms of appearance, the cloth surface is smooth and clean, with a looming dark bead effect, with dark twill, and the texture is novel and fashionable, which can better meet the personalized and fashionable needs of the post-90s generation than weft plain weave.
(4)卓越的保型性:面、里层20各25%的编织路改成了珠地组织,实现了三角形连接,且是改成了涤纶材质,织造时紧密设置纱支占比、线圈长度,染整时分三次定型使面料充分回缩,分别从结构上、材质上、密度上提升面料的保型性,使面料挺括有型,在穿着和洗涤时不起拱、不变形。(4) Excellent shape retention: 25% of the weaving paths of the surface and
(5)卓越的舒适性:拥有较厚的绑纱层30,使面料非常丰厚,可以保留大量空气,具有良好的保暖性;同时手感柔软细腻,贴身穿着很亲肤;同时针织面料又具有较好的延展性、透气性,穿着体验很舒适。(5) Excellent comfort: It has a thicker
(6)科学合理的丰厚度:该面料克重为310g/m2,与春秋常用的针织卫衣布、加丝布、空气层250-300g/m2的克重区间契合。(6) Scientific and reasonable richness: The gram weight of the fabric is 310g/m 2 , which is in line with the gram weight range of 250-300g/m 2 commonly used in spring and autumn for knitted sweater cloth, silk cloth and air layer.
(7)超高的性价比:平均售价为300-400元,非常亲民。(7) Super high cost performance: The average selling price is 300-400 yuan, which is very close to the people.
本发明中针织面料的检测数据如下:The detection data of the knitted fabric in the present invention are as follows:
本发明的产品形式并非限于本案图示和实施例,任何人对其进行类似思路的适当变化或修饰,皆应视为不脱离本发明的专利范畴。The product form of the present invention is not limited to the illustrations and examples in this case, and any appropriate changes or modifications of similar ideas by anyone should be deemed not to depart from the scope of the present invention.
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