CN103382665A - Dyeing and finishing method for processing wool spandex single jersey edge curl - Google Patents

Dyeing and finishing method for processing wool spandex single jersey edge curl Download PDF

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Publication number
CN103382665A
CN103382665A CN2013103098350A CN201310309835A CN103382665A CN 103382665 A CN103382665 A CN 103382665A CN 2013103098350 A CN2013103098350 A CN 2013103098350A CN 201310309835 A CN201310309835 A CN 201310309835A CN 103382665 A CN103382665 A CN 103382665A
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dyeing
wool
processing
finishing method
consumption
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CN103382665B (en
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陈小湘
徐林
王俊丽
刘星磊
许畅
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Shanghai Jialinjie Textile Technology Co., Ltd.
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Shanghai Challenge Textile Co Ltd
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Abstract

The invention relates to a dyeing and finishing method for processing wool spandex single jersey edge curl. The dyeing and finishing method comprises a setting process, a pre-processing process, a dyeing process, a cleaning process and a wool blanket setting process, wherein the tension of the single jersey cover is controlled reasonably in the pre-setting process, the appropriate dosage of reducing agents and the processing temperature are selected in the pre-processing process, the pH is appropriately adjusted in the dyeing process, alkali cleaning without water discharging is performed in the cleaning process, and the had feeling of the single jersey cover is improved in the wool blanket setting process. The preparation method is simple and has no special requirements for equipment; the edge curl condition of wool spandex fabric after processing is improved greatly, stable production can be achieved, and the technical problem that wool spandex single jersey garments are difficult to be processed and produced is solved.

Description

A kind of dyeing and finishing method of processing the Wool spandex undershirt cloth crimping
Technical field
The invention belongs to the fabric finishing field, particularly a kind of dyeing and finishing method of processing the Wool spandex undershirt cloth crimping.
Background technology
Wool yarn is crooked in manufacture process, and because self internal stress can attempt to stretch under nature, show edge-curl phenomenon in edge coil, laterally curling to reverse side, vertically curling to the front, if one-sided jersey can aggravate edge-curl phenomenon again after adding spandex thread, puzzlement ready-made clothes cutting and the garment production such as make and process.If simply launch by manually-operated, labour intensity is large, and production efficiency is low.Some light wool fabric is in the dyeing and finishing production and processing, and is particularly relatively violent at the dyeing course conditional, destroyed the wool internal stress; the crimping situation has larger improvement; but dark tricot de laine, dyeing environment and dyestuff have protective effect to the wool internal stress, and final light base edge-curl phenomenon is serious.High-temperature shaping is conducive to remove the wool yarn internal stress, but is subjected to again the restriction of setting temperature and time for the wool fabric that contains spandex thread.Also can improve the crimping problem in single jersey fabric open-width line both sides mesh grid ocular tissue.In dyeing and finishing process, efficiently improving easily Wool spandex crimping problem by adjusting process or prescription etc. is the technical barrier that wool fabric manufacturing enterprise faces.
Summary of the invention
Technical problem to be solved by this invention is to provide a kind of dyeing and finishing method of processing the Wool spandex undershirt cloth crimping, and the method is simple to operate, and cost is low, has solved the technical barrier of Wool spandex undershirt cloth ready-made clothes processing difficulty.
A kind of dyeing and finishing method of processing the Wool spandex undershirt cloth crimping of the present invention comprises: shaping process, pretreatment procedure, dyeing process, matting, blanket shaping process;
In described shaping process 1,2,7,8 four casees temperature are 170-175 ℃, middle 3,4,5,6 four casees temperature are 175-180 ℃, light base setting temperature is 130-135 ℃, setting temperature suitably improves and is conducive to destroy the wool yarn internal stress;
Described pretreatment procedure comprises: 1:12-25 injects dyeing machine with water by bath raio, adds efficient detergent, and circulation 5-10min is warming up to 60-70 ℃, insulation 20-30min, draining after finishing; Then add water in dyeing machine, add reductant, circulation 5-10min is warming up to 80-90 ℃, insulation 20-30min; Washing at last;
Described dyeing process comprises: 1:12-25 injects dyeing machine with water by bath raio, add smooth agent in balneation, circulation 5-10min, then add wool levelling agent, chelating agent and acid, circulation 5-10min adds dyestuff, circulation 15-20min, be warming up to 85-98 ℃ with 0.5-1 ℃/min, insulation 30-60min;
Described matting is for not draining after dyeing, in 78 ℃ of alkali cleaning 30min;
Described blanket shaping process is overfeeding 50-55%, and speed of a motor vehicle 15-20m/min advances the cloth steam 2-2.5 of place, the blanket steam 0.2-0.5 of place.
In described shaping process, the blank overfeeding is 8-10%, and light base overfeeding is 20-25%, avoids the improper crimping aggravation of overfeeding; Rolling hair is the 2-6% of fabric quality with the softener consumption, and cloth speed is 15-20m/min.
In described pretreatment procedure, efficient detergent is the DEPICOL JT of German Sima chemical company, and consumption is 1-2g/L.
In described pretreatment procedure, reductant is sodium pyrosulfite, and consumption is 1-2g/L.
In described dyeing process, acid is formic acid or acetic acid, regulates the pH value to 4-6, and adds sodium acetate as the pH buffer.
In bathing in described dyeing process, the consumption of smooth agent is 1-2g/L, and the consumption of wool levelling agent is the 1-2% of fabric quality.
In described dyeing process, dyestuff is squeezed in secondary cylinder 1 after good by the automatic material of middle control system 800minization in advance, injects in dyeing machine with 15min, injects 1s when wherein injecting and stops 15s.
Described dyestuff is reactive dye for wool or ACID DYES.
Described dyeing machine is jet-overflow.
Described water is industrial soft water.
In described matting, alkali is soda ash, and consumption is the 1.2-2.7% of fabric quality.
At the resulting wool fabric crimping of the present invention detecting step: vertically cut the 20*5cm cloth along fabric, the 24h that naturally dangles in thermostatic constant wet chamber surveys both sides cloth seam width, averages.
Rationally control face tension in pre-setting of the present invention, select suitable reductant consumption and treatment temperature in pre-treatment, transfer to proper pH value in dyeing, not draining alkali cleaning in cleaning, improve the cloth cover feel in the blanket typing, destroy the wool yarn internal stress in dyeing and finishing process, solve a wool fabric crimping difficult problem.
Beneficial effect:
(1) preparation method of the present invention is simple, without especial equipment requirements;
(2) the Wool spandex fabric crimping situation after processing of the present invention has obtained very large improvement, can realize producing stable carrying out, and has solved the technical barrier of Wool spandex undershirt cloth ready-made clothes processing difficulty.
The specific embodiment
Below in conjunction with specific embodiment, further set forth the present invention.Should be understood that these embodiment only to be used for explanation the present invention and be not used in and limit the scope of the invention.Should be understood that in addition those skilled in the art can make various changes or modifications the present invention after the content of having read the present invention's instruction, these equivalent form of values fall within the application's appended claims limited range equally.
Embodiment 1
72N/1 raises sub-non-shrinkable wool (compact spinning 18.9 fineness) 95%+20D low form LYCRA5% and entirely serves as a contrast spandex undershirt cloth, and 110kg dyes black.Comprise following operation: a) pre-setting operation; B) pretreatment procedure; C) dyeing process; D) matting; E) blanket shaping process.
A) shaping process: during pre-setting 1,2,7,8 four casees temperature are 173 ℃, middle 3,4,5,6 four casees temperature are 178 ℃, overfeeding 9%.Light base setting temperature is 130 ℃, rolls hair softener 37324%, overfeeding 22%, and cloth speed is 18m/min.
B) pretreatment procedure: at first by bath raio 1:12, water is injected dyeing machine, by middle control automatic system, the DEPICOL JT dissolving of 1g/L Germany Sima chemical company is squeezed in the secondary cylinder of dyeing, inject in dyeing machine with 10min, circulation 5min, be warming up to 60 ℃, insulation 20min, draining after finishing.Then intake in dyeing machine, add sodium pyrosulfite in secondary cylinder, consumption 1g/L injects in dyeing machine with 5min, and circulation 10min is warming up to 80 ℃, insulation 20min.At last, 40 ℃ of washing 10min.
c) dyeing process: the industry water that injects the reinforced water of 1:12 deduction in dyeing machine, add precious C in the bath of Hensel Man in secondary cylinder, consumption 2g/L, inject in dyeing machine with 5min, circulation 5min, then the wool levelling agent LTD that adds Hensel Man, consumption 2%, the chelating agent YH-563g/L and the formic acid 1% that add at last Shanghai hundred million Chinese workers' industry chemical company, circulation 10min, squeeze in secondary cylinder 1 by the good reactive dye for wool of the automatic material of middle control system's 800minization, dyestuff used is the reactive dye for wool ORANGE A-RG of emerging Kanggong department production, SCARLET CE, BLACK CE-R injects in dyeing machine with 15min, inject 1s when wherein injecting and stop 15s, after injecting end, circulation 15min, be warming up to 90 ℃ with 1 ℃/min, insulation 60min.When the present invention specifically implements, preferably, use formic acid to regulate pH value to 4-5 in described dyeing.
D) caustic wash process: after dyeing during 78 ℃ of not drainings from the secondary cylinder 2 of dyeing machine the good soda ash of injectionization wash 30min, wherein said soda ash consumption is 2.7%.
E) when the present invention specifically implements, preferably, described blanket shaping process is overfeeding 55%, and speed of a motor vehicle 15m/min advances cloth place steam 2, blanket place steam 0.2.
By the test of wool crimping, the raw wool spandex fabric crimping that is untreated is that 2.1cm is 0.8cm through the final Wool spandex fabric crimping that technique of the present invention obtains, and the crimping situation is greatly improved.
Embodiment 2
36N/1 raises the false looped pile of sub-non-shrinkable wool (compact spinning 18.9 fineness)+20D low form LYCRA ammonification, and 239.2kg dyes brass.Comprise following operation: a) pre-setting operation; B) pretreatment procedure; C) dyeing process; D) matting; E) blanket shaping process.
A) shaping process: during pre-setting 1,2,7,8 four casees temperature are 173 ℃, middle 3,4,5,6 four casees temperature are 178 ℃, overfeeding 9%.Light base setting temperature is 130 ℃, rolls hair softener 32144%, overfeeding 22%, and cloth speed is 18m/min.
B) pretreatment procedure: at first by bath raio 1:15, water is injected dyeing machine, by middle control automatic system, the DEPICOL JT dissolving of 1g/L Germany Sima chemical company is squeezed in the secondary cylinder of dyeing, inject in dyeing machine with 10min, circulation 5min, be warming up to 60 ℃, insulation 20min, draining after finishing.Then intake in dyeing machine, add sodium pyrosulfite in secondary cylinder, consumption 1g/L injects in dyeing machine with 5min, and circulation 10min is warming up to 80 ℃, insulation 20min.At last, 40 ℃ of washing 10min.
c) dyeing process: the industry water that injects the reinforced water of 1:15 deduction in dyeing machine, add precious C in the bath of Hensel Man in secondary cylinder, consumption 2g/L, inject in dyeing machine with 5min, circulation 5min, then the wool levelling agent A Baige B that adds Hensel Man, consumption 2%, the YH-563g/L and the acetic acid 1% that add at last chelating agent Shanghai Yi-hua Industry Chemical company, circulation 10min, squeeze in secondary cylinder 1 by the good reactive dye for wool of the automatic material of middle control system's 800minization, dyestuff used is the reactive dye for wool YELLOW A-4G of emerging Kanggong department production, RED A-6G, NAVY A-B injects in dyeing machine with 15min, inject 1s when wherein injecting and stop 15s, after injecting end, circulation 15min, be warming up to 90 ℃ with 1 ℃/min, insulation 60min.When the present invention specifically implements, preferably, use formic acid to regulate pH value to 4-5 in described dyeing.
D) caustic wash process: after dyeing during 78 ℃ of not drainings from the secondary cylinder 2 of dyeing machine the good soda ash of injectionization wash 30min, wherein said soda ash consumption is 2.7%.
E) the blanket shaping process is overfeeding 55%, and speed of a motor vehicle 15m/min advances cloth place steam 2, blanket place steam 0.2.
By wool crimping method of testing of the present invention, the raw wool spandex fabric crimping that is untreated is 1.8cm, and the final Wool spandex fabric crimping that obtains through technique of the present invention is 0.7cm, and the crimping situation is greatly improved.

Claims (9)

1. a dyeing and finishing method of processing the Wool spandex undershirt cloth crimping, comprising: shaping process, pretreatment procedure, dyeing process, matting, blanket shaping process;
In described shaping process 1,2,7,8 four casees temperature are 170-175 ℃, middle 3,4,5,6 four casees temperature are 175-180 ℃, light base setting temperature is 130-135 ℃;
Described pretreatment procedure comprises: will water be injected dyeing machine by bath raio 1:12-25, and add efficient detergent, circulation 5-10min is warming up to 60-70 ℃, insulation 20-30min, draining after finishing; Then add water in dyeing machine, add reductant, circulation 5-10min is warming up to 80-90 ℃, insulation 20-30min; Washing at last;
Described dyeing process comprises: 1:12-25 injects dyeing machine with water by bath raio, add smooth agent in balneation, circulation 5-10min, then add wool levelling agent, chelating agent and acid, circulation 5-10min adds dyestuff, circulation 15-20min, be warming up to 85-98 ℃ with 0.5-1 ℃/min, insulation 30-60min;
Described matting is for not draining after dyeing, in 78 ℃ of alkali cleaning 30min;
Described blanket shaping process is overfeeding 50-55%, and speed of a motor vehicle 15-20m/min advances the cloth steam 2-2.5 of place, the blanket steam 0.2-0.5 of place.
2. a kind of dyeing and finishing method of processing the Wool spandex undershirt cloth crimping according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: in described shaping process, the blank overfeeding is 8-10%, light base overfeeding is 20-25%; Rolling hair is the 2-6% of fabric quality with the softener consumption, and cloth speed is 15-20m/min.
3. a kind of dyeing and finishing method of processing the Wool spandex undershirt cloth crimping according to claim 1 is characterized in that: in described pretreatment procedure, efficient detergent is DEPICOL JT, and consumption is 1-2g/L.
4. a kind of dyeing and finishing method of processing the Wool spandex undershirt cloth crimping according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: in described pretreatment procedure, reductant is sodium pyrosulfite, consumption is 1-2g/L.
5. a kind of dyeing and finishing method of processing the Wool spandex undershirt cloth crimping according to claim 1 is characterized in that: in described dyeing process, acid is formic acid or acetic acid, regulates the pH value to 4-6, and adds sodium acetate as the pH buffer.
6. a kind of dyeing and finishing method of processing the Wool spandex undershirt cloth crimping according to claim 1 is characterized in that: in bathing in described dyeing process, the consumption of smooth agent is 1-2g/L, and the consumption of wool levelling agent is the 1-2% of fabric quality.
7. a kind of dyeing and finishing method of processing the Wool spandex undershirt cloth crimping according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: in described dyeing process, dyestuff is squeezed in secondary cylinder 1 after good by the automatic material of middle control system 800minization in advance, inject in dyeing machine with 15min, inject 1s when wherein injecting and stop 15s.
8. a kind of dyeing and finishing method of processing the Wool spandex undershirt cloth crimping according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: the dyestuff in described dyeing process is reactive dye for wool or ACID DYES.
9. a kind of dyeing and finishing method of processing the Wool spandex undershirt cloth crimping according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: in described matting, alkali is soda ash, consumption is the 1.2-2.7% of fabric quality.
CN201310309835.0A 2013-07-22 2013-07-22 A kind of dyeing and finishing method processing Wool spandex undershirt cloth crimping Active CN103382665B (en)

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Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103437040A (en) * 2013-07-03 2013-12-11 安徽裕华纺织有限公司 Anti-curl satin drill elastic fabric and weaving process thereof
CN103741322A (en) * 2013-11-25 2014-04-23 常熟市梅李镇赵市盛欣纺织制品厂 Broken spandex wrapped yarn fabric manufacturing method
CN105603657A (en) * 2016-01-22 2016-05-25 三明市东泰染织有限公司 Dyeing method for textiles for garments
CN108265511A (en) * 2017-12-19 2018-07-10 上海嘉麟杰纺织品股份有限公司 A kind of improvement hydrophilic method of wool/nylon facing material

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN102251385A (en) * 2011-06-08 2011-11-23 日东纺(中国)有限公司 Ultra-high-elasticity adhesive padding cloth and manufacturing method thereof
CN102493205A (en) * 2011-11-30 2012-06-13 江苏贝德时装有限公司 Processing method for one-sided jersey containing wool
CN102851947A (en) * 2012-09-03 2013-01-02 上海嘉麟杰纺织品股份有限公司 Low prickle wool knitting fabric and preparation method thereof

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN102251385A (en) * 2011-06-08 2011-11-23 日东纺(中国)有限公司 Ultra-high-elasticity adhesive padding cloth and manufacturing method thereof
CN102493205A (en) * 2011-11-30 2012-06-13 江苏贝德时装有限公司 Processing method for one-sided jersey containing wool
CN102851947A (en) * 2012-09-03 2013-01-02 上海嘉麟杰纺织品股份有限公司 Low prickle wool knitting fabric and preparation method thereof

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103437040A (en) * 2013-07-03 2013-12-11 安徽裕华纺织有限公司 Anti-curl satin drill elastic fabric and weaving process thereof
CN103741322A (en) * 2013-11-25 2014-04-23 常熟市梅李镇赵市盛欣纺织制品厂 Broken spandex wrapped yarn fabric manufacturing method
CN105603657A (en) * 2016-01-22 2016-05-25 三明市东泰染织有限公司 Dyeing method for textiles for garments
CN108265511A (en) * 2017-12-19 2018-07-10 上海嘉麟杰纺织品股份有限公司 A kind of improvement hydrophilic method of wool/nylon facing material

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Patentee after: Shanghai Jialinjie Textile Technology Co., Ltd.

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Patentee before: Shanghai Challenge Textile Co., Ltd.

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